1 00:00:07,480 --> 00:00:08,480 These... 2 00:00:09,560 --> 00:00:12,479 ...are the European Alps. 3 00:00:12,480 --> 00:00:14,919 They're a gigantic barrier 4 00:00:14,920 --> 00:00:18,719 that stretches for nearly 1,000 miles, 5 00:00:18,720 --> 00:00:21,999 from the Mediterranean to the Adriatic. 6 00:00:22,000 --> 00:00:23,759 And throughout history, 7 00:00:23,760 --> 00:00:26,559 they have divided Europe 8 00:00:26,560 --> 00:00:30,879 and been a source of difficulty 9 00:00:30,880 --> 00:00:35,040 and now of intense play. 10 00:00:36,480 --> 00:00:37,839 Though they were first described 11 00:00:37,840 --> 00:00:39,359 as the playground of Europe 12 00:00:39,360 --> 00:00:42,719 over 150 years ago. 13 00:00:42,720 --> 00:00:45,999 I'm going through not like Hannibal, from north to south, 14 00:00:46,000 --> 00:00:48,559 but in my own individual way, 15 00:00:48,560 --> 00:00:50,759 from west to east, 16 00:00:50,760 --> 00:00:52,279 winding along the valleys 17 00:00:52,280 --> 00:00:55,119 and through six countries. 18 00:00:55,120 --> 00:00:57,280 So, join me. 19 00:00:59,960 --> 00:01:01,160 It'll be quite a trip. 20 00:01:03,000 --> 00:01:06,120 But first, I do have to get down from here. 21 00:01:11,160 --> 00:01:14,439 The incredible European Alps. 22 00:01:14,440 --> 00:01:16,919 They're a gigantic white wall 23 00:01:16,920 --> 00:01:20,519 that divides Europe, north from south. 24 00:01:20,520 --> 00:01:23,999 I'm off to travel through them, sideways, 25 00:01:24,000 --> 00:01:25,999 from snowy peaks 26 00:01:26,000 --> 00:01:29,159 to bare, rugged mountaintops. 27 00:01:29,160 --> 00:01:33,039 When you come to the Alps, you reach for the superlatives... 28 00:01:33,040 --> 00:01:35,679 Well, it's very lucky I don't suffer from vertigo. 29 00:01:35,680 --> 00:01:37,039 ...the glorious... 30 00:01:37,040 --> 00:01:38,879 That was real awe. 31 00:01:38,880 --> 00:01:40,279 ...the overwhelming... 32 00:01:40,280 --> 00:01:42,839 Looking straight down is wondrous. 33 00:01:42,840 --> 00:01:44,479 ...and the terrifying. 34 00:01:44,480 --> 00:01:46,559 Slip and you go underneath it. 35 00:01:46,560 --> 00:01:48,400 Some embrace the bitter cold... 36 00:01:49,520 --> 00:01:51,879 ...some take to the skies... 37 00:01:51,880 --> 00:01:53,439 Go! Run, run, run, run, run! 38 00:01:53,440 --> 00:01:54,759 ...and so will I. 39 00:01:54,760 --> 00:01:57,119 Please, be careful. 40 00:01:57,120 --> 00:01:59,479 From the almost frozen... 41 00:01:59,480 --> 00:02:00,719 It's for professional. 42 00:02:00,720 --> 00:02:02,119 It's not for the common people. 43 00:02:02,120 --> 00:02:04,639 ...to the beautifully cosy... 44 00:02:04,640 --> 00:02:06,759 What a delightful baby lamb. 45 00:02:06,760 --> 00:02:08,679 ...and the untamed wild. 46 00:02:08,680 --> 00:02:10,439 I don't like the look in the wolf's eyes. 47 00:02:10,440 --> 00:02:12,919 In case, you know, they're still hungry. 48 00:02:12,920 --> 00:02:16,479 These are the Alps beyond the ski slopes. 49 00:02:16,480 --> 00:02:18,679 It's a mysterious place. 50 00:02:18,680 --> 00:02:20,479 Ah! 51 00:02:20,480 --> 00:02:22,999 I'm just completely dangling in the middle of nowhere. 52 00:02:23,000 --> 00:02:25,639 Think the Alps are just for winter sports... 53 00:02:25,640 --> 00:02:27,919 Na zdravje. Na zdravje. 54 00:02:27,920 --> 00:02:29,400 ...well, there's so much more. 55 00:02:32,160 --> 00:02:34,600 And it's ours to explore. 56 00:02:48,600 --> 00:02:52,159 I'm in Chamonix in the Haute-Savoie. 57 00:02:52,160 --> 00:02:55,279 This is by no means the furthest west of the Alps, 58 00:02:55,280 --> 00:02:57,039 but it's the climax of a range 59 00:02:57,040 --> 00:02:59,399 that climbs out of the Mediterranean Sea 60 00:02:59,400 --> 00:03:02,159 to peak in Mont Blanc. 61 00:03:02,160 --> 00:03:03,559 It's already late May. 62 00:03:03,560 --> 00:03:05,559 Hikers, climbers, tourists 63 00:03:05,560 --> 00:03:08,879 are readying for a bit of awe in the summer. 64 00:03:08,880 --> 00:03:10,039 But no matter the season, 65 00:03:10,040 --> 00:03:13,959 helpful advice at the hotel check-in is always valuable. 66 00:03:13,960 --> 00:03:17,120 Chamonix, it's a very wonderful city. Is it? 67 00:03:20,680 --> 00:03:24,919 Sortir? Sortir des sentiers battus. 68 00:03:24,920 --> 00:03:28,239 - Sortir. - Merci. OK. Thank you very much. 69 00:03:28,240 --> 00:03:30,439 And for those struggling with my appalling French, 70 00:03:30,440 --> 00:03:34,079 she recommended I get off the beaten track. 71 00:03:34,080 --> 00:03:35,119 Why not? 72 00:03:35,120 --> 00:03:37,400 I think my first stop should help. 73 00:03:38,440 --> 00:03:40,439 There was one invention in the mid-20th century 74 00:03:40,440 --> 00:03:44,600 that totally transformed life in high altitudes. 75 00:03:48,880 --> 00:03:51,119 The self-closing door. 76 00:03:51,120 --> 00:03:52,400 No, it was this. 77 00:03:56,640 --> 00:03:57,640 The helicopter. 78 00:04:01,040 --> 00:04:04,079 It serves mountain refuges 79 00:04:04,080 --> 00:04:07,039 and maintenance workers and building work. 80 00:04:07,040 --> 00:04:09,439 I wasn't expecting it to be quite so glam. 81 00:04:09,440 --> 00:04:11,480 But it had a great paint job. 82 00:04:13,720 --> 00:04:15,600 It's called Lily Marie. 83 00:04:17,640 --> 00:04:20,239 I'm lucky enough to be going in the helicopter, 84 00:04:20,240 --> 00:04:22,799 and lucky enough, of course, actually, 85 00:04:22,800 --> 00:04:24,839 to be going to a refuge hut, 86 00:04:24,840 --> 00:04:30,079 which is way, way up in the Great Massif 87 00:04:30,080 --> 00:04:32,759 in the middle of the mountains. 88 00:04:32,760 --> 00:04:34,799 And what an extraordinary system 89 00:04:34,800 --> 00:04:37,679 that actually has waiting for you. 90 00:04:37,680 --> 00:04:40,679 Warmth and a place to sleep and comfort. 91 00:04:40,680 --> 00:04:43,840 And what an extraordinary system that keeps that place supplied. 92 00:04:51,840 --> 00:04:54,439 There are other ways to get to the top of the Alps, 93 00:04:54,440 --> 00:04:56,679 and I will explore them. 94 00:04:56,680 --> 00:05:00,479 But this has to be the most uplifting. 95 00:05:00,480 --> 00:05:01,879 Usually reserved for work, 96 00:05:01,880 --> 00:05:03,839 as I've been invited to tag along 97 00:05:03,840 --> 00:05:06,960 by our experienced pilot, Eliott. 98 00:05:39,280 --> 00:05:43,799 Not that birds of prey often carry a basket of essential supplies 99 00:05:43,800 --> 00:05:45,120 up to these heights. 100 00:05:53,480 --> 00:05:56,439 Our first stop, the Refuge du Gouter, 101 00:05:56,440 --> 00:05:58,639 looks like something on the moon. 102 00:05:58,640 --> 00:06:00,359 Mountain climbers stay here overnight 103 00:06:00,360 --> 00:06:02,959 before their final assault on Mont Blanc. 104 00:06:02,960 --> 00:06:05,719 At 4,807m, 105 00:06:05,720 --> 00:06:08,799 the summit is the highest in Western Europe. 106 00:06:08,800 --> 00:06:12,679 The first shelter was built here as early as 1854. 107 00:06:12,680 --> 00:06:15,359 It was an 1854 stone shed 108 00:06:15,360 --> 00:06:18,879 and dangerous if you needed to pop outside for a pee. 109 00:06:18,880 --> 00:06:21,799 The latest version is aerodynamically designed 110 00:06:21,800 --> 00:06:25,559 to withstand winds of nearly 300km an hour. 111 00:06:25,560 --> 00:06:28,799 But you can pee inside. 112 00:06:28,800 --> 00:06:30,519 Voila! 113 00:06:30,520 --> 00:06:32,119 It's like magic, 114 00:06:32,120 --> 00:06:33,879 I've been deposited. 115 00:06:33,880 --> 00:06:38,999 And now I am on the side of Mont Blanc, 116 00:06:39,000 --> 00:06:42,159 but, well, above the treeline. 117 00:06:42,160 --> 00:06:46,559 And over here is the refuge that was built 118 00:06:46,560 --> 00:06:50,480 for climbers to use during the summer. 119 00:06:51,640 --> 00:06:57,719 So I'm carefully following the route down through the deep snow, 120 00:06:57,720 --> 00:07:02,959 because it snowed in the mountains only a few days ago. 121 00:07:02,960 --> 00:07:09,360 And I've been introduced to the terror of the mountains pretty quick. 122 00:07:10,920 --> 00:07:12,240 As we stand up here... 123 00:07:13,960 --> 00:07:17,039 ...it's not difficult to see why. 124 00:07:17,040 --> 00:07:19,839 To the medieval mind, 125 00:07:19,840 --> 00:07:23,679 the mountains were just a horrendous place. 126 00:07:23,680 --> 00:07:26,439 Nobody ever went there. 127 00:07:26,440 --> 00:07:28,679 They didn't see the point. 128 00:07:28,680 --> 00:07:30,719 Up here lived monsters. 129 00:07:30,720 --> 00:07:32,519 Up here was nothing. 130 00:07:32,520 --> 00:07:33,719 It was a wilderness. 131 00:07:33,720 --> 00:07:35,959 This was God's creation, 132 00:07:35,960 --> 00:07:37,320 why try it? 133 00:07:38,400 --> 00:07:40,239 For thousands of years, 134 00:07:40,240 --> 00:07:43,319 human beings lived down there. 135 00:07:43,320 --> 00:07:48,039 And the reputation of Chamonix and Saint Gervais 136 00:07:48,040 --> 00:07:53,799 was as difficult, dangerous places in themselves. 137 00:07:53,800 --> 00:07:57,679 Great ice walls came down to threaten them, 138 00:07:57,680 --> 00:08:01,159 there were constant storms and snowfalls, 139 00:08:01,160 --> 00:08:05,119 and it was a dangerous place just to be in the valley. 140 00:08:05,120 --> 00:08:07,720 Nobody ever wanted to come up here. 141 00:08:12,240 --> 00:08:13,679 I'm surrounded by guys, 142 00:08:13,680 --> 00:08:16,759 and they're working so quickly and so fast, 143 00:08:16,760 --> 00:08:18,639 because they're only here for a few minutes 144 00:08:18,640 --> 00:08:20,319 before the helicopter returns. 145 00:08:20,320 --> 00:08:21,919 The ice must be cleared, 146 00:08:21,920 --> 00:08:23,639 the place must be made safe. 147 00:08:23,640 --> 00:08:26,279 And I find that I'm one of an elite. 148 00:08:26,280 --> 00:08:29,959 Just 120 person max... OK. ...into the refuge. 149 00:08:29,960 --> 00:08:31,439 Yes. It's for professional, 150 00:08:31,440 --> 00:08:33,479 it's for mountain guides... 151 00:08:33,480 --> 00:08:34,919 Yes. ..it's for high-level sport. 152 00:08:34,920 --> 00:08:36,439 It's... Yes. ..not for the common people. 153 00:08:36,440 --> 00:08:38,919 No, no, no, no, no, no. 154 00:08:38,920 --> 00:08:40,999 You have to be well prepared. 155 00:08:41,000 --> 00:08:43,359 Yes. You have to be well equipped. Yes. 156 00:08:43,360 --> 00:08:44,599 But I can't hang around here. 157 00:08:44,600 --> 00:08:47,160 The maintenance men are on a tight schedule. 158 00:08:59,960 --> 00:09:01,080 OK. Merci. 159 00:09:14,040 --> 00:09:16,319 When people use the word awesome today, 160 00:09:16,320 --> 00:09:19,239 they use it in a sort of gosh-wow sense, 161 00:09:19,240 --> 00:09:22,479 but in fact, awesome has a really pucker origin. 162 00:09:22,480 --> 00:09:25,439 It means a place of wonder and fear. 163 00:09:25,440 --> 00:09:26,679 If you were in awe of something, 164 00:09:26,680 --> 00:09:27,759 you were humbled by it 165 00:09:27,760 --> 00:09:29,840 and you kept your distance from it. 166 00:09:30,920 --> 00:09:35,439 We just landed on a tiny road, 167 00:09:35,440 --> 00:09:36,759 just a track. 168 00:09:36,760 --> 00:09:40,239 They've unloaded me while he does a tricky drop. 169 00:09:40,240 --> 00:09:45,759 And Eliott has now attached a great big sort of line to himself, 170 00:09:45,760 --> 00:09:48,919 and he's going to pick up more stuff 171 00:09:48,920 --> 00:09:52,079 to take up to those guys at the top. 172 00:09:52,080 --> 00:09:54,919 They are continually doing things 173 00:09:54,920 --> 00:09:58,319 which look extremely difficult... HE LAUGHS 174 00:09:58,320 --> 00:10:00,959 ...and, well, let's face it, dangerous. 175 00:10:00,960 --> 00:10:03,680 And they do it as a routine, day in, day out. 176 00:10:04,720 --> 00:10:05,759 Amazing. 177 00:10:05,760 --> 00:10:08,840 And we've got one more supply run to make. 178 00:10:37,120 --> 00:10:40,359 Which is never to be underestimated. 179 00:10:40,360 --> 00:10:41,439 This time, we're slinging, 180 00:10:41,440 --> 00:10:44,879 yep, that's the official term for a load beneath the helicopter, 181 00:10:44,880 --> 00:10:49,439 equipment to repair a concrete wall on a summit outcrop. 182 00:10:49,440 --> 00:10:53,439 It's a busy time with those summer crowds about to arrive. 183 00:10:53,440 --> 00:10:54,799 Eliott, our pilot, 184 00:10:54,800 --> 00:10:59,199 is just unbelievably accurate with his flying machine. 185 00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:00,839 He can drop these things 186 00:11:00,840 --> 00:11:02,839 within inches of the people 187 00:11:02,840 --> 00:11:04,679 who are waiting to receive them. 188 00:11:04,680 --> 00:11:06,839 Vast vats of water, 189 00:11:06,840 --> 00:11:09,159 huge generators 190 00:11:09,160 --> 00:11:11,439 and a cement mixer. 191 00:11:11,440 --> 00:11:15,080 I'm just helping get these things here... 192 00:11:16,480 --> 00:11:17,480 ...for this guy. 193 00:11:18,560 --> 00:11:19,919 Uh-huh? 194 00:11:19,920 --> 00:11:21,720 Vous voulez? OK. 195 00:11:24,440 --> 00:11:28,880 Whoa! These are steep holes. 196 00:11:30,520 --> 00:11:34,119 And we're surrounded by absolutely sheer drops 197 00:11:34,120 --> 00:11:35,320 on either side. 198 00:11:36,600 --> 00:11:38,679 I'm just holding on for dear life here, 199 00:11:38,680 --> 00:11:41,879 because I've been very much warned that even with this here, 200 00:11:41,880 --> 00:11:45,199 the worst problem is, when there's snow here, ice, 201 00:11:45,200 --> 00:11:48,639 just one slip and you go underneath it, 202 00:11:48,640 --> 00:11:51,919 and that's thousands of feet down. 203 00:11:51,920 --> 00:11:56,079 So I'm holding on as tightly as I can. 204 00:11:56,080 --> 00:12:00,919 But we are already off the beaten track. 205 00:12:00,920 --> 00:12:02,960 "Les sentiers... 206 00:12:05,560 --> 00:12:06,839 "..non battus." 207 00:12:06,840 --> 00:12:08,519 This is it. 208 00:12:08,520 --> 00:12:12,319 We are at a place which is in the middle of a cable run. 209 00:12:12,320 --> 00:12:13,519 The cable comes up there. 210 00:12:13,520 --> 00:12:15,679 It goes, "Kah-jun, kah-jun," when you're on a cable car, 211 00:12:15,680 --> 00:12:17,719 You remember that moment, "Kah-jun, kah-jun." 212 00:12:17,720 --> 00:12:21,079 And then it shoots on to get to the very top there. 213 00:12:21,080 --> 00:12:25,399 And only engineers ever come to this place, 214 00:12:25,400 --> 00:12:26,519 and now me. 215 00:12:26,520 --> 00:12:27,919 So I'm very privileged. 216 00:12:27,920 --> 00:12:29,639 HE LAUGHS And the guys behind me 217 00:12:29,640 --> 00:12:31,319 are working away. 218 00:12:31,320 --> 00:12:33,959 They're used to it, and they're doing it very safely. 219 00:12:33,960 --> 00:12:37,199 But I feel a little bit not exactly of vertigo, 220 00:12:37,200 --> 00:12:41,279 but a sense of wonder. 221 00:12:41,280 --> 00:12:44,559 I'm experiencing the sublime. 222 00:12:44,560 --> 00:12:46,359 200 years ago, 223 00:12:46,360 --> 00:12:49,319 the romantic poets, Wordsworth, Shelley, Byron 224 00:12:49,320 --> 00:12:52,359 came here to the Alps as early tourists 225 00:12:52,360 --> 00:12:56,599 in search of what was, to them, a very specific emotion, 226 00:12:56,600 --> 00:12:59,199 beauty and fear combined. 227 00:12:59,200 --> 00:13:03,479 The sublime is a bit of wonder 228 00:13:03,480 --> 00:13:04,919 and a bit of terror, 229 00:13:04,920 --> 00:13:07,279 all mixed into this idea 230 00:13:07,280 --> 00:13:11,360 of nature being more powerful than a human being. 231 00:13:16,440 --> 00:13:17,839 You could say 232 00:13:17,840 --> 00:13:21,959 that I'm already treading the untrodden ways. 233 00:13:21,960 --> 00:13:24,799 But if I look behind me over there, 234 00:13:24,800 --> 00:13:28,439 that is the Mont Blanc Massif. 235 00:13:28,440 --> 00:13:33,519 And I can see little dots, little black dots, 236 00:13:33,520 --> 00:13:35,079 quite a lot of them. 237 00:13:35,080 --> 00:13:37,399 And there are people on skis 238 00:13:37,400 --> 00:13:40,079 who are climbing to the summit. 239 00:13:40,080 --> 00:13:45,959 And in order to do that, they're crossing this huge expanse of snow 240 00:13:45,960 --> 00:13:48,400 in the absolute to complete wilderness. 241 00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:57,039 There are all sorts of cliched superlatives 242 00:13:57,040 --> 00:13:59,119 going through my mind right now. 243 00:13:59,120 --> 00:14:01,079 I'm allowed one. 244 00:14:01,080 --> 00:14:02,080 Awesome. 245 00:14:21,000 --> 00:14:23,239 14 miles southwest of Chamonix, 246 00:14:23,240 --> 00:14:24,999 on the other side of Mont Blanc, 247 00:14:25,000 --> 00:14:26,279 there's another reason 248 00:14:26,280 --> 00:14:29,039 why tourists started coming to these mountains 249 00:14:29,040 --> 00:14:32,359 even earlier than those excitable poets. 250 00:14:32,360 --> 00:14:34,759 It was for their health. 251 00:14:34,760 --> 00:14:37,959 Saint Gervais boasts natural spring waters 252 00:14:37,960 --> 00:14:41,439 which are said to have healing properties. 253 00:14:41,440 --> 00:14:44,119 I'm sitting on a little French train now. 254 00:14:44,120 --> 00:14:46,999 It's not a journey that I can say I haven't done before 255 00:14:47,000 --> 00:14:50,839 because I have many, many times been skiing. 256 00:14:50,840 --> 00:14:53,119 But I have to say that when I do that, 257 00:14:53,120 --> 00:14:55,039 you know, I'm always in a rush. 258 00:14:55,040 --> 00:14:58,839 I'm always charging to get to the slopes as quickly as possible, 259 00:14:58,840 --> 00:15:01,119 and get on them, slide about, 260 00:15:01,120 --> 00:15:03,479 eat a lot of food, and then come home. 261 00:15:03,480 --> 00:15:05,079 But this is a journey 262 00:15:05,080 --> 00:15:09,479 that I'm going to take through the Alps, 263 00:15:09,480 --> 00:15:10,879 not across them. 264 00:15:10,880 --> 00:15:15,799 This is taking the Alps on side to side, 265 00:15:15,800 --> 00:15:20,480 trying to explore the 1,000 miles... 266 00:15:21,720 --> 00:15:24,279 ...of alpine territory 267 00:15:24,280 --> 00:15:28,359 that stretches from Monte Carlo 268 00:15:28,360 --> 00:15:29,440 to Slovenia. 269 00:15:35,440 --> 00:15:37,239 I'm off to a thermal spa, 270 00:15:37,240 --> 00:15:39,919 just one of many healthy wellness options 271 00:15:39,920 --> 00:15:43,239 I expect to encounter in my journey across the Alps. 272 00:15:43,240 --> 00:15:45,439 After any arduous trek or journey, 273 00:15:45,440 --> 00:15:49,319 what could be possibly more reassuring and soothing 274 00:15:49,320 --> 00:15:52,119 than a nice warm bath? 275 00:15:52,120 --> 00:15:55,480 And I think this looks like the place to have it. 276 00:16:03,000 --> 00:16:06,679 Oh, and I do want to just reassure you at this point 277 00:16:06,680 --> 00:16:09,439 that this is not one of those series 278 00:16:09,440 --> 00:16:12,400 where a celebrity goes on holiday. 279 00:16:15,880 --> 00:16:19,239 Though sometimes a bit like that. 280 00:16:19,240 --> 00:16:22,280 I mean, this is an incredible place. 281 00:16:23,480 --> 00:16:28,439 Thermal baths seem to be the origins of tourism in the Alps. 282 00:16:28,440 --> 00:16:30,839 Before modern people came here to be awed, 283 00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,919 the Romans trekked into the mountains 284 00:16:32,920 --> 00:16:35,999 to get warm and bubbly and limpid. 285 00:16:36,000 --> 00:16:39,839 After its discovery in 1806, this spa in Saint Gervais 286 00:16:39,840 --> 00:16:44,559 became one of the first commercial wellness centres in the region. 287 00:16:44,560 --> 00:16:47,359 I'm feeling very soothed, 288 00:16:47,360 --> 00:16:49,279 as one should do, 289 00:16:49,280 --> 00:16:52,479 because this particular water is rich in minerals. 290 00:16:52,480 --> 00:16:56,439 It's not only rich, it's very, very old. 291 00:16:56,440 --> 00:17:01,919 It's 6,500 years old by calculation. 292 00:17:01,920 --> 00:17:05,039 And that's quite a long time to run a bath. 293 00:17:05,040 --> 00:17:09,439 It started at the top of nearby Mont Blanc. 294 00:17:09,440 --> 00:17:14,159 But originally, people came to the mountains 295 00:17:14,160 --> 00:17:16,759 not to climb the mountains, 296 00:17:16,760 --> 00:17:21,799 they came partly because this sort of thing was here. 297 00:17:21,800 --> 00:17:28,399 And the Alps were a place of wellness and recovery 298 00:17:28,400 --> 00:17:33,879 long, long before they were a place of energetic activity. 299 00:17:33,880 --> 00:17:38,239 It's difficult to think of anything more delightful or placid 300 00:17:38,240 --> 00:17:41,719 than sitting here in this beautiful warm water. 301 00:17:41,720 --> 00:17:44,399 The idea of the mountains being awesome and dangerous 302 00:17:44,400 --> 00:17:46,199 seems a long way away. 303 00:17:46,200 --> 00:17:50,279 But in 1892, 304 00:17:50,280 --> 00:17:52,480 the mountain struck back. 305 00:17:54,480 --> 00:17:58,119 There's a glacier overlooking this valley. 306 00:17:58,120 --> 00:17:59,799 It's called the Tete Rousse, 307 00:17:59,800 --> 00:18:03,199 and a vast quantity of water 308 00:18:03,200 --> 00:18:06,599 had built up in the glacier. 309 00:18:06,600 --> 00:18:08,519 And one night, 310 00:18:08,520 --> 00:18:10,399 the ice that was holding it 311 00:18:10,400 --> 00:18:13,839 sort of popped out like a cork, 312 00:18:13,840 --> 00:18:19,079 and 200,000 square meters of water 313 00:18:19,080 --> 00:18:23,959 poured in a vast gush and torrent 314 00:18:23,960 --> 00:18:25,159 down the valley, 315 00:18:25,160 --> 00:18:30,479 and swept these thermal baths completely away, 316 00:18:30,480 --> 00:18:33,799 killing 100 people. 317 00:18:33,800 --> 00:18:38,280 The mountains are genuinely dangerous places. 318 00:18:43,760 --> 00:18:46,679 And awe involves respect. 319 00:18:46,680 --> 00:18:47,799 To understand the Alps, 320 00:18:47,800 --> 00:18:49,159 we can't just gaze on them, 321 00:18:49,160 --> 00:18:52,399 we need to appreciate the forces involved. 322 00:18:52,400 --> 00:18:53,999 Water is key. 323 00:18:54,000 --> 00:18:55,720 It formed the terrain. 324 00:18:57,040 --> 00:19:00,159 As I take a little hike through a wood north of Chamonix, 325 00:19:00,160 --> 00:19:04,559 I've found this slew of almost artfully placed boulders. 326 00:19:04,560 --> 00:19:08,959 So I'm here in the middle of a moraine. 327 00:19:08,960 --> 00:19:11,199 That's a collection of stones 328 00:19:11,200 --> 00:19:15,639 which have been deposited here by a glacier. 329 00:19:15,640 --> 00:19:21,199 The glacier in question is the very famous Mer de Glace, 330 00:19:21,200 --> 00:19:24,519 which still exists, 331 00:19:24,520 --> 00:19:25,999 and is up there, 332 00:19:26,000 --> 00:19:30,119 but about 2.5km away. 333 00:19:30,120 --> 00:19:32,399 In 1880, 334 00:19:32,400 --> 00:19:33,879 it was here. 335 00:19:33,880 --> 00:19:39,399 It shows the sheer power of this river of ice 336 00:19:39,400 --> 00:19:43,039 that it pushed these mighty stones 337 00:19:43,040 --> 00:19:45,279 out to one side, 338 00:19:45,280 --> 00:19:48,559 and in fact, carried many stones with it 339 00:19:48,560 --> 00:19:51,919 as it sort of slid, 340 00:19:51,920 --> 00:19:53,559 crept, 341 00:19:53,560 --> 00:19:57,919 inched its way down the gorge. 342 00:19:57,920 --> 00:20:01,119 This huge boulder over here is called an erratic. 343 00:20:01,120 --> 00:20:04,719 And one of the reasons why... HE LAUGHS 344 00:20:04,720 --> 00:20:06,759 ...people started to question the idea 345 00:20:06,760 --> 00:20:09,039 that God had created the mountains 346 00:20:09,040 --> 00:20:12,039 and the world exactly as they found it 347 00:20:12,040 --> 00:20:15,799 was because scientists started to say, "No, clearly, these boulders 348 00:20:15,800 --> 00:20:19,239 "have been brought here by something, 349 00:20:19,240 --> 00:20:22,519 "and it's connected with this river of ice, 350 00:20:22,520 --> 00:20:27,919 "and this is actually changing the landscape in front of us, 351 00:20:27,920 --> 00:20:29,879 "and is still changing it." 352 00:20:29,880 --> 00:20:32,879 We've had a fantastic season here, they tell us. 353 00:20:32,880 --> 00:20:35,160 This is one of the biggest snowfalls for years. 354 00:20:36,400 --> 00:20:38,839 But the best season ever, 355 00:20:38,840 --> 00:20:40,119 if we'd been around to see it, 356 00:20:40,120 --> 00:20:42,559 was about a million years ago, 357 00:20:42,560 --> 00:20:45,159 when the entirety of these Alps 358 00:20:45,160 --> 00:20:48,679 was covered in a huge shelf of ice, 359 00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:51,560 which stretched all the way to Geneva. 360 00:20:52,600 --> 00:20:54,999 And as that ice age finished, 361 00:20:55,000 --> 00:20:57,959 meltwaters completed this landscape. 362 00:20:57,960 --> 00:21:02,399 What we can see here is a fairly recent deposit. 363 00:21:02,400 --> 00:21:05,559 Successive ice ages and colossal glaciers 364 00:21:05,560 --> 00:21:09,239 did the master carving over millions of years. 365 00:21:09,240 --> 00:21:11,479 But the meltwater and the grinding, 366 00:21:11,480 --> 00:21:13,759 washing and silting of downpours 367 00:21:13,760 --> 00:21:15,759 levelled off the bottom, 368 00:21:15,760 --> 00:21:19,000 all essentially originally from rain or snow. 369 00:21:22,360 --> 00:21:25,039 Well, I have to say, it's quite clear, isn't it? 370 00:21:25,040 --> 00:21:27,599 I don't know anything about geology at all, 371 00:21:27,600 --> 00:21:30,999 but what I am getting is some of the curiosity 372 00:21:31,000 --> 00:21:33,360 and some of the way in which... 373 00:21:35,240 --> 00:21:37,679 ...really intelligent philosophers 374 00:21:37,680 --> 00:21:39,000 began to question... 375 00:21:40,160 --> 00:21:43,479 ...the tripe that they'd been made to believe 376 00:21:43,480 --> 00:21:44,880 in the Middle Ages. 377 00:21:53,120 --> 00:21:54,200 Overpowering... 378 00:21:55,680 --> 00:21:56,880 ...mysterious... 379 00:21:58,320 --> 00:21:59,480 ...sublime... 380 00:22:00,800 --> 00:22:03,120 ...awesome in its real meaning. 381 00:22:10,120 --> 00:22:12,079 ♪ Dah, dum, doo, doo, doo. ♪ 382 00:22:12,080 --> 00:22:13,559 From my moraine, 383 00:22:13,560 --> 00:22:15,519 I'm taking to the Arve River 384 00:22:15,520 --> 00:22:20,119 and heading 12km downstream to the village of Les Houches. 385 00:22:20,120 --> 00:22:23,400 Apparently, this is one of the fastest ways there. 386 00:22:25,720 --> 00:22:30,239 The Alps is the water tank of Europe. 387 00:22:30,240 --> 00:22:31,999 This is a tributary, 388 00:22:32,000 --> 00:22:35,879 and will eventually work its way, I assume, into the Rhone. 389 00:22:35,880 --> 00:22:39,559 But the major rivers of Europe, 390 00:22:39,560 --> 00:22:42,879 the Rhone, the Rhine, the Po, the Danube, 391 00:22:42,880 --> 00:22:46,279 all start their journeys in the glaciers 392 00:22:46,280 --> 00:22:47,999 and the snowfalls 393 00:22:48,000 --> 00:22:50,039 of these mountains. 394 00:22:50,040 --> 00:22:53,160 I think it was some dude in Rome... 395 00:22:54,320 --> 00:22:55,599 ...Heraclitus, in fact, 396 00:22:55,600 --> 00:23:00,599 who said, "You can never step into the same river twice." 397 00:23:00,600 --> 00:23:03,599 So again, by being on a river, you know, like this, 398 00:23:03,600 --> 00:23:06,399 I'm off the beaten track. 399 00:23:06,400 --> 00:23:10,279 I don't think I'm actually the very first person to do this, though. 400 00:23:10,280 --> 00:23:14,159 I somehow think, in my yellow helmet and our rubber boat, 401 00:23:14,160 --> 00:23:15,959 other people have been here before. 402 00:23:15,960 --> 00:23:19,279 I mean, this really is a comfortable way of making some distance, 403 00:23:19,280 --> 00:23:21,279 getting some miles. 404 00:23:21,280 --> 00:23:24,520 And we're sort of, you know, boinging along down the river. 405 00:23:27,160 --> 00:23:28,559 We haven't reached anything 406 00:23:28,560 --> 00:23:32,479 which really constitutes whitewater rafting. 407 00:23:32,480 --> 00:23:34,079 But this is early days, 408 00:23:34,080 --> 00:23:37,159 because when the melt really happens in early June, 409 00:23:37,160 --> 00:23:39,439 this river starts to swell 410 00:23:39,440 --> 00:23:42,800 and this journey becomes even more exciting. 411 00:23:43,960 --> 00:23:46,079 The Arve's own adventure 412 00:23:46,080 --> 00:23:48,639 happened some time ago. 413 00:23:48,640 --> 00:23:51,079 What I'm on now is essentially a trickle 414 00:23:51,080 --> 00:23:52,679 compared with the torrent 415 00:23:52,680 --> 00:23:55,760 that shaped the landscape in the past. 416 00:24:05,760 --> 00:24:08,399 From the river, it's a short bike ride 417 00:24:08,400 --> 00:24:10,559 to a rather unexpected destination 418 00:24:10,560 --> 00:24:12,719 high above Chamonix Valley. 419 00:24:12,720 --> 00:24:16,439 I'm arriving at Les Houches School of Physics, 420 00:24:16,440 --> 00:24:18,799 where some of the greatest minds in science 421 00:24:18,800 --> 00:24:22,879 have come to unravel the foundations of our universe, 422 00:24:22,880 --> 00:24:24,679 and still do. 423 00:24:24,680 --> 00:24:26,080 I think I need to change gear. 424 00:24:27,560 --> 00:24:30,079 Hello. Nice to meet you. Hello. Nice to meet you. 425 00:24:30,080 --> 00:24:31,839 Thank you for having us here. How you doing? 426 00:24:31,840 --> 00:24:33,079 Let me park my bike. 427 00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:34,919 Can I? Shall I? OK. Please, do. OK, great. 428 00:24:34,920 --> 00:24:37,199 I'm certainly off the beaten track here 429 00:24:37,200 --> 00:24:39,119 because this isn't a tourist site, 430 00:24:39,120 --> 00:24:41,319 unless you're a graduate physicist. 431 00:24:41,320 --> 00:24:42,679 But I have a keen interest 432 00:24:42,680 --> 00:24:44,879 in the forces that shape these mountains, 433 00:24:44,880 --> 00:24:47,479 and I'm hoping Professor Philippe Peyla 434 00:24:47,480 --> 00:24:48,759 can give me a steer. 435 00:24:48,760 --> 00:24:51,959 We literally have physicists sitting on benches. Exactly. 436 00:24:51,960 --> 00:24:54,799 Thinking, exchanging ideas. Exchanging ideas. Yes. 437 00:24:54,800 --> 00:24:56,719 And very famously, 438 00:24:56,720 --> 00:24:58,439 Stephen Hawking came here... Exactly. 439 00:24:58,440 --> 00:25:02,039 ...and he was here and there was a discussion about black holes. 440 00:25:02,040 --> 00:25:04,719 Exactly. And they came out into the... In 1972... Yep, yep. 441 00:25:04,720 --> 00:25:07,559 ...he said that all the physics of black holes 442 00:25:07,560 --> 00:25:09,559 was done here. Wow! 443 00:25:09,560 --> 00:25:13,079 Since its inception by a young French physicist, 444 00:25:13,080 --> 00:25:16,239 Cecile DeWitt-Morette, in 1951, 445 00:25:16,240 --> 00:25:18,799 some of the brightest minds in science 446 00:25:18,800 --> 00:25:20,959 have gathered here annually, 447 00:25:20,960 --> 00:25:25,239 learning, exchanging ideas, and shaping the future of physics. 448 00:25:25,240 --> 00:25:31,279 We have more than 60 Nobel Prize come here... Yes. ..you know? 449 00:25:31,280 --> 00:25:34,559 And we have a plate, you know, here. 450 00:25:34,560 --> 00:25:36,799 Oh, gosh! Yes, here they all are. 451 00:25:36,800 --> 00:25:38,559 Oh, wow! It's not a Nobel Prize. 452 00:25:38,560 --> 00:25:41,599 No. Because normally it's only for Nobel Prize. 453 00:25:41,600 --> 00:25:43,599 GRIFF LAUGHS But we put especially for him. 454 00:25:43,600 --> 00:25:46,399 That's great. I need to say this to everybody at home, 455 00:25:46,400 --> 00:25:47,919 you know, who knows Stephen Hawking, 456 00:25:47,920 --> 00:25:49,839 cos we're very proud of him. 457 00:25:49,840 --> 00:25:50,959 And here he is. 458 00:25:50,960 --> 00:25:52,759 Although he didn't get a Nobel Prize, 459 00:25:52,760 --> 00:25:54,599 he's been so notable 460 00:25:54,600 --> 00:25:58,079 that he's here at the bottom on this post, 461 00:25:58,080 --> 00:25:59,359 commemorated for being here, 462 00:25:59,360 --> 00:26:02,640 amongst all these extraordinary physicists. 463 00:26:04,800 --> 00:26:06,519 As a physicist, 464 00:26:06,520 --> 00:26:09,559 what interests you about mountains themselves? 465 00:26:09,560 --> 00:26:12,239 What are the forces that are being used? 466 00:26:12,240 --> 00:26:14,560 The origin... Yes, yes. ..of this landscape... 467 00:26:15,680 --> 00:26:18,919 ...you know, it was the African tectonic plate 468 00:26:18,920 --> 00:26:22,399 which moved into the European plate. 469 00:26:22,400 --> 00:26:24,359 And when you compress, 470 00:26:24,360 --> 00:26:26,519 you know, your tissue, you have folds, 471 00:26:26,520 --> 00:26:31,679 and this is the folds generated by these gigantic forces, 472 00:26:31,680 --> 00:26:36,359 which were formed tens of billions of years before. 473 00:26:36,360 --> 00:26:40,919 But the truth is that scientists were attracted to the mountains 474 00:26:40,920 --> 00:26:46,039 because they needed them to start testing theories 475 00:26:46,040 --> 00:26:47,759 and to do experiments. Absolutely. Yeah. 476 00:26:47,760 --> 00:26:50,479 And so some of the earliest climbers of these mountains 477 00:26:50,480 --> 00:26:52,039 were scientists, weren't they? 478 00:26:52,040 --> 00:26:53,559 Yes, they were. Yeah. 479 00:26:53,560 --> 00:26:55,839 Because they were very curious also. 480 00:26:55,840 --> 00:26:57,239 And scientists are curious. 481 00:26:57,240 --> 00:27:01,079 And you always want to know what's happening over there at the top. Yeah. 482 00:27:01,080 --> 00:27:04,079 Yes. And you can see also, not today, 483 00:27:04,080 --> 00:27:07,679 but there is no pollution and no light pollution here. 484 00:27:07,680 --> 00:27:10,319 So for observation of stars and planets, 485 00:27:10,320 --> 00:27:12,959 it was also a very good spot at that time. Yes. 486 00:27:12,960 --> 00:27:15,079 Now, here's a much more banal question 487 00:27:15,080 --> 00:27:17,479 cos I've been told as I arrived here, 488 00:27:17,480 --> 00:27:23,239 somebody said to me, "Griff, you've got to sortir des sentiers..." 489 00:27:23,240 --> 00:27:24,439 Battus. "..battus." 490 00:27:24,440 --> 00:27:26,519 Sortir des sentiers battus. Battus. 491 00:27:26,520 --> 00:27:28,599 You want to discover original things 492 00:27:28,600 --> 00:27:31,999 rather than common things that we see every day. 493 00:27:32,000 --> 00:27:35,959 But the truth is, I bet, if you go off the beaten track... 494 00:27:35,960 --> 00:27:39,239 OK. ..yeah, that's when you get into trouble, isn't it... 495 00:27:39,240 --> 00:27:41,920 Yeah, sure. ..in these mountains? Could be dangerous. 496 00:27:48,760 --> 00:27:52,119 I think Philippe was reminding me of another aspect of my challenge, 497 00:27:52,120 --> 00:27:56,319 the courage to explore unexpected paths in science. 498 00:27:56,320 --> 00:27:59,519 But this is not a metaphor. 499 00:27:59,520 --> 00:28:02,399 I'm clinging on for dear life. 500 00:28:02,400 --> 00:28:05,799 I don't really care how beaten this track is, 501 00:28:05,800 --> 00:28:07,759 it feels scarily new to me. 502 00:28:07,760 --> 00:28:10,119 I have to admit that I didn't know 503 00:28:10,120 --> 00:28:13,959 I suffered from extreme, pathological vertigo 504 00:28:13,960 --> 00:28:15,799 until I was, of course, I'm standing here. 505 00:28:15,800 --> 00:28:17,799 But what I'm intending to do 506 00:28:17,800 --> 00:28:19,959 is take the easy way down 507 00:28:19,960 --> 00:28:23,559 by rappelling or abseiling down. 508 00:28:23,560 --> 00:28:26,799 And I have excellent motivation to get to the bottom, 509 00:28:26,800 --> 00:28:30,439 because waiting for me there is an avid mountain climber and guide 510 00:28:30,440 --> 00:28:33,799 who happens also to be a chef. 511 00:28:33,800 --> 00:28:36,600 All this mountain climbing has made me hungry. 512 00:28:37,960 --> 00:28:40,039 Jean-Marie is an expert guide. 513 00:28:40,040 --> 00:28:41,759 He's now 78, 514 00:28:41,760 --> 00:28:44,719 and he's got far too much sense 515 00:28:44,720 --> 00:28:46,439 and is far too old 516 00:28:46,440 --> 00:28:49,560 to come up here and abseil down with me. 517 00:28:50,720 --> 00:28:54,399 Because I am, after all, five years younger than him. 518 00:28:54,400 --> 00:28:56,879 Anyway, we have come up 519 00:28:56,880 --> 00:29:00,319 to just about the highest point we could reach 520 00:29:00,320 --> 00:29:03,479 in order to experiment with going down. 521 00:29:03,480 --> 00:29:05,359 What I hope to experience 522 00:29:05,360 --> 00:29:09,639 is just a little bit of the sheer terror 523 00:29:09,640 --> 00:29:11,920 involved in mountain climbing... 524 00:29:13,360 --> 00:29:15,600 ...especially rock climbing. 525 00:29:16,680 --> 00:29:19,399 There is a film called Vertical Limits, 526 00:29:19,400 --> 00:29:22,319 and I think I've reached mine. 527 00:29:22,320 --> 00:29:24,439 All right, now, so first of all, 528 00:29:24,440 --> 00:29:28,200 I need it nice and tight so I can feel the weight on it. 529 00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:31,039 OK. 530 00:29:31,040 --> 00:29:33,799 Now I can lean out. 531 00:29:33,800 --> 00:29:35,319 Now you are ready. 532 00:29:35,320 --> 00:29:38,439 I am ready. The harness can take the tension. 533 00:29:38,440 --> 00:29:39,639 Straight down. 534 00:29:39,640 --> 00:29:41,519 You follow the gravity, OK? 535 00:29:41,520 --> 00:29:42,879 Oh, follow gravity. INSTRUCTOR LAUGHS 536 00:29:42,880 --> 00:29:44,999 I understand. Yes. OK. Well, we'll try that. 537 00:29:45,000 --> 00:29:47,799 OK. We're going to follow gravity and see what happens. 538 00:29:47,800 --> 00:29:50,919 OK. Well, I'm starting fairly slowly 539 00:29:50,920 --> 00:29:55,559 because I don't want to swing too far. 540 00:29:55,560 --> 00:29:57,039 It's all about confidence. 541 00:29:57,040 --> 00:30:00,119 You just have to do the counter-intuitive thing, 542 00:30:00,120 --> 00:30:02,199 which is to lean right back 543 00:30:02,200 --> 00:30:06,519 and then let gravity sort of just sort out everything 544 00:30:06,520 --> 00:30:09,439 and keep you exactly balanced and go down. 545 00:30:09,440 --> 00:30:11,279 The truth is, you don't want to do that. 546 00:30:11,280 --> 00:30:16,559 But it does teach you that all of these mountain activities 547 00:30:16,560 --> 00:30:18,759 are entirely dependent 548 00:30:18,760 --> 00:30:21,839 on that wonderful physical force, 549 00:30:21,840 --> 00:30:22,840 gravity. 550 00:30:30,080 --> 00:30:31,839 I am going rather slowly. 551 00:30:31,840 --> 00:30:34,159 You know, the SAS, let's face it, 552 00:30:34,160 --> 00:30:36,119 they sort of shoot into action. 553 00:30:36,120 --> 00:30:38,199 Me, I'm taking my time. 554 00:30:38,200 --> 00:30:39,200 I'm enjoying it. 555 00:30:42,840 --> 00:30:44,079 Whoa. 556 00:30:44,080 --> 00:30:46,479 Ah. OK. Good. 557 00:30:46,480 --> 00:30:48,799 GRIFF LAUGHS 558 00:30:48,800 --> 00:30:51,200 Congratulations. Jean-Marie. Oh, merci. 559 00:30:52,680 --> 00:30:56,119 Everything was great. Yeah. It was great fun. 560 00:30:56,120 --> 00:30:58,239 Yeah. I enjoyed myself tremendously. 561 00:30:58,240 --> 00:31:00,439 Yeah, yeah. Not too many troubles. 562 00:31:00,440 --> 00:31:01,719 It will be better next time. 563 00:31:01,720 --> 00:31:03,319 It will be better next time, yes. 564 00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:05,279 I don't know if there will be a next time. 565 00:31:05,280 --> 00:31:06,560 Bravo. Thank you. 566 00:31:11,000 --> 00:31:14,399 So you were brought up in Chamonix? 567 00:31:14,400 --> 00:31:16,079 Yeah, I was born in Chamonix, 568 00:31:16,080 --> 00:31:19,719 and we couldn't afford to have a guide to go climbing by ourselves, 569 00:31:19,720 --> 00:31:20,839 you know? No, no, no. 570 00:31:20,840 --> 00:31:25,519 The way was to be with a kind of organisation like Alpine Club. 571 00:31:25,520 --> 00:31:27,159 Of course, yes. Yeah. And the British came here 572 00:31:27,160 --> 00:31:30,319 in huge numbers... Yeah. ...and suddenly it became a sport. 573 00:31:30,320 --> 00:31:32,919 Yeah, yeah. Jean-Marie has invited me to his home 574 00:31:32,920 --> 00:31:35,679 for a traditional French alpine meal. 575 00:31:35,680 --> 00:31:37,599 Today, I'm his sous chef. 576 00:31:37,600 --> 00:31:39,039 In fact, I went to England. 577 00:31:39,040 --> 00:31:40,999 You know why? Yeah. I wanted to learn English. 578 00:31:41,000 --> 00:31:42,759 So I worked for the Roux brothers. 579 00:31:42,760 --> 00:31:44,119 What an amazing training. 580 00:31:44,120 --> 00:31:45,919 I feel, as a sous chef to you, 581 00:31:45,920 --> 00:31:47,719 I'd better be on my mark. 582 00:31:47,720 --> 00:31:48,799 Yeah, yeah. 583 00:31:48,800 --> 00:31:52,679 We're going to do a kind of a recipe called fricassee. 584 00:31:52,680 --> 00:31:54,519 Fricassee, it's called fricassee ou lard. 585 00:31:54,520 --> 00:31:56,279 Lard is bacon, you know? 586 00:31:56,280 --> 00:31:59,319 So now we're going to put the bacon. 587 00:31:59,320 --> 00:32:03,759 Uh-huh. So you take this off the side. Yeah. 588 00:32:03,760 --> 00:32:05,559 So you're a serious cook 589 00:32:05,560 --> 00:32:08,559 and you eat good food. 590 00:32:08,560 --> 00:32:12,079 If you're doing a long trip in the mountains, 591 00:32:12,080 --> 00:32:15,519 do you care about the food that you take there? 592 00:32:15,520 --> 00:32:18,239 Yeah, it depends. You know, most of the time, you can go, 593 00:32:18,240 --> 00:32:21,559 if you go to the huts up in the mountains, 594 00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:23,199 usually they cook for you. 595 00:32:23,200 --> 00:32:25,359 So you can get, 596 00:32:25,360 --> 00:32:27,599 most of the time, good... Good food. 597 00:32:27,600 --> 00:32:29,399 Yes. Yeah, good food. 598 00:32:29,400 --> 00:32:33,799 Jean-Marie is a member of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. 599 00:32:33,800 --> 00:32:35,039 Formed in 1821, 600 00:32:35,040 --> 00:32:39,039 it was the world's first organised mountain guide association 601 00:32:39,040 --> 00:32:43,439 and tasked with guiding climbers up Mont Blanc safely. 602 00:32:43,440 --> 00:32:46,039 So part of your job as a guide 603 00:32:46,040 --> 00:32:48,799 is to know what's likely to happen 604 00:32:48,800 --> 00:32:52,439 and to help people if the circumstances change. Yeah. 605 00:32:52,440 --> 00:32:57,479 I mean, to be a guide, you have to find the good timing. Mm. 606 00:32:57,480 --> 00:33:01,039 What to do to see the avalanche risk, 607 00:33:01,040 --> 00:33:02,999 where to go that's not as good. 608 00:33:03,000 --> 00:33:05,319 There's less danger than climbing a mountain. GRIFF LAUGHS 609 00:33:05,320 --> 00:33:07,279 But you can climb a mountain 610 00:33:07,280 --> 00:33:09,719 and put lot of safety on your side. 611 00:33:09,720 --> 00:33:11,599 Yes. That's why I'm still alive, you know? 612 00:33:11,600 --> 00:33:14,359 Of course. If I wanted to go up Mont Blanc, 613 00:33:14,360 --> 00:33:16,119 a guide would take me. Yeah. 614 00:33:16,120 --> 00:33:18,919 They're graded, and climbers know 615 00:33:18,920 --> 00:33:20,639 where they're going to climb. 616 00:33:20,640 --> 00:33:22,919 But here's a question, have you yourself, 617 00:33:22,920 --> 00:33:25,199 as a mountain climber, 618 00:33:25,200 --> 00:33:26,559 ever climbed a mountain 619 00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:28,359 which has not been climbed before? 620 00:33:28,360 --> 00:33:29,679 No. No. 621 00:33:29,680 --> 00:33:32,839 Would it be something that, as a mountain climber, 622 00:33:32,840 --> 00:33:35,280 you would be thrilled to do? 623 00:33:36,360 --> 00:33:39,560 When I found a new route myself it's because I got lost. 624 00:33:41,040 --> 00:33:43,279 That's a good thing about climbing mountains, 625 00:33:43,280 --> 00:33:45,159 then you forget everything. 626 00:33:45,160 --> 00:33:47,519 You forget your problems you've got down in the valley. 627 00:33:47,520 --> 00:33:50,919 You know... Yes. ..you just have to concentrate what you're doing 628 00:33:50,920 --> 00:33:52,879 and to see the beauty and... 629 00:33:52,880 --> 00:33:55,519 And your own physicality and relationship with the mountain. 630 00:33:55,520 --> 00:33:58,239 Which is... Yeah, I see that. ..one of the motivation, I think. 631 00:33:58,240 --> 00:34:02,319 I still am impressed by the... 632 00:34:02,320 --> 00:34:04,039 This is delicious, by the way. Fantastic. Yeah. 633 00:34:04,040 --> 00:34:05,959 I was not looking at this all the time, 634 00:34:05,960 --> 00:34:08,159 you know, because we've been talking a lot. 635 00:34:08,160 --> 00:34:11,399 And when you cook, you have to... Concentrate. 636 00:34:11,400 --> 00:34:13,319 Yeah, yeah. You have to see what you're doing. 637 00:34:13,320 --> 00:34:16,840 - - Just like climbing. Yeah. - Yeah. - Both. THEY LAUGH 638 00:34:33,800 --> 00:34:36,839 I'm in the queue for the Aiguille du Midi, 639 00:34:36,840 --> 00:34:37,999 which is the Telepherique, 640 00:34:38,000 --> 00:34:39,159 the highest in France. 641 00:34:39,160 --> 00:34:40,599 It goes right up to the top. 642 00:34:40,600 --> 00:34:45,999 And there are a lot of very serious-looking people here. 643 00:34:46,000 --> 00:34:48,240 I worry that I'm just not serious enough. 644 00:34:53,040 --> 00:34:55,759 I think I've worked out what some of these guys are doing. 645 00:34:55,760 --> 00:34:57,279 Some of them are carrying ropes, 646 00:34:57,280 --> 00:34:58,399 they're obviously climbing. 647 00:34:58,400 --> 00:35:00,079 Some of them are carrying skis 648 00:35:00,080 --> 00:35:01,959 and they're obviously intending to ski down. 649 00:35:01,960 --> 00:35:03,319 And quite a lot of them 650 00:35:03,320 --> 00:35:04,879 are carrying those huge packs, 651 00:35:04,880 --> 00:35:07,559 and they must be paragliding sails, 652 00:35:07,560 --> 00:35:09,039 which they then unwrap 653 00:35:09,040 --> 00:35:10,600 and throw themselves off the mountain. 654 00:35:16,120 --> 00:35:19,119 I'm definitely getting up the mountain now, 655 00:35:19,120 --> 00:35:21,999 but I'm pretty certain that, either or another, 656 00:35:22,000 --> 00:35:26,039 I'm not really getting off the beaten track. 657 00:35:26,040 --> 00:35:30,759 But I am going up to about 12,500ft above sea level 658 00:35:30,760 --> 00:35:34,039 to a dramatic tourist destination. 659 00:35:34,040 --> 00:35:35,479 For the risk averse, 660 00:35:35,480 --> 00:35:38,959 unmatched views across the French, Swiss and Italian Alps, 661 00:35:38,960 --> 00:35:41,399 but for the adventurers, 662 00:35:41,400 --> 00:35:43,319 a gateway. 663 00:35:43,320 --> 00:35:47,760 This is like being in a sort of secret place. 664 00:35:48,960 --> 00:35:50,639 Nobody's talking. 665 00:35:50,640 --> 00:35:54,559 Everybody's just busy setting themselves up. 666 00:35:54,560 --> 00:35:57,199 It's like a military adventure. 667 00:35:57,200 --> 00:36:00,280 And they're going over the top. 668 00:36:12,120 --> 00:36:13,679 It strikes you already. 669 00:36:13,680 --> 00:36:16,159 I'm in a state of wonder, awe, 670 00:36:16,160 --> 00:36:17,919 obviously at the mountains, 671 00:36:17,920 --> 00:36:20,959 but more at this piece of infrastructure. 672 00:36:20,960 --> 00:36:22,160 An extraordinary idea... 673 00:36:23,560 --> 00:36:25,679 ...that you can build a lift 674 00:36:25,680 --> 00:36:29,080 to get people to one of the highest places in Europe. 675 00:36:30,120 --> 00:36:32,480 You have to admire the engineers and the builders. 676 00:36:35,080 --> 00:36:37,320 That's what's leaving me awestruck at the moment. 677 00:36:48,480 --> 00:36:50,919 There is a wise quote which says something like, 678 00:36:50,920 --> 00:36:54,919 "We often hear that the mountains are dangerous, 679 00:36:54,920 --> 00:36:58,479 "but they are what they are. 680 00:36:58,480 --> 00:37:01,439 "They ask nothing of us. 681 00:37:01,440 --> 00:37:04,599 "It is where we go and what we do 682 00:37:04,600 --> 00:37:05,800 "that is dangerous." 683 00:37:07,880 --> 00:37:13,159 When Shelley came here in 1816, there was none of this. 684 00:37:13,160 --> 00:37:15,319 Of course, it was all built in 1955. 685 00:37:15,320 --> 00:37:18,159 And it was built by private money. 686 00:37:18,160 --> 00:37:19,839 But Shelley wrote a poem. 687 00:37:19,840 --> 00:37:22,359 He wrote a poem to celebrate 688 00:37:22,360 --> 00:37:25,759 the terror and awe of Mont Blanc. 689 00:37:25,760 --> 00:37:30,279 "Mont Blanc yet gleams on high. 690 00:37:30,280 --> 00:37:32,559 The power is there, 691 00:37:32,560 --> 00:37:36,999 "the still and solemn power of many sights and many sounds, 692 00:37:37,000 --> 00:37:39,519 "and much of life and death 693 00:37:39,520 --> 00:37:43,680 "in the calm darkness of the moonless nights." 694 00:37:53,480 --> 00:37:56,279 I was advising people before we came here, 695 00:37:56,280 --> 00:37:59,999 I said to our esteemed director and various other people, 696 00:38:00,000 --> 00:38:01,839 I said, "Oh, no, be careful. 697 00:38:01,840 --> 00:38:05,239 "We don't want to end up in one of those empty ski resorts, 698 00:38:05,240 --> 00:38:08,959 "you know, full of clothes shops and clattering ski lifts." 699 00:38:08,960 --> 00:38:11,319 And in fact, I apologise. 700 00:38:11,320 --> 00:38:14,039 I find Chamonix totally charming. 701 00:38:14,040 --> 00:38:15,439 This is the shoulder season. 702 00:38:15,440 --> 00:38:19,239 It's just halfway between the end of the ski season 703 00:38:19,240 --> 00:38:20,959 and the beginning of the summer season. 704 00:38:20,960 --> 00:38:25,919 And it reveals itself to be a charming French town 705 00:38:25,920 --> 00:38:28,360 just up in the mountains. 706 00:38:31,200 --> 00:38:33,759 So in 1816, 707 00:38:33,760 --> 00:38:34,919 a very significant date 708 00:38:34,920 --> 00:38:40,119 because Lord Byron and Percy Shelley 709 00:38:40,120 --> 00:38:44,799 and Percy Shelley's runaway bride, Mary Shelley, 710 00:38:44,800 --> 00:38:45,839 they came up here. 711 00:38:45,840 --> 00:38:49,559 It's indicative that Chamonix was already going 712 00:38:49,560 --> 00:38:51,679 that there was a hotel here, 713 00:38:51,680 --> 00:38:53,439 and the hotel was called 714 00:38:53,440 --> 00:38:57,319 Hotel Angleterre or Hotel Londres, 715 00:38:57,320 --> 00:38:59,239 because there were so many British people 716 00:38:59,240 --> 00:39:00,679 to come and have a look at the mountains. 717 00:39:00,680 --> 00:39:02,679 So they came to have a look at the mountains. 718 00:39:02,680 --> 00:39:06,159 Now, Mary Shelley was taken up to the Mer de Glace. 719 00:39:06,160 --> 00:39:07,639 She was guided there. 720 00:39:07,640 --> 00:39:12,279 She looked at it and decided it was the most desolate place 721 00:39:12,280 --> 00:39:13,759 she had ever seen. 722 00:39:13,760 --> 00:39:16,519 And she decided that in her novel, 723 00:39:16,520 --> 00:39:18,879 Dr Frankenstein 724 00:39:18,880 --> 00:39:24,439 should catch up with his errant monster 725 00:39:24,440 --> 00:39:26,999 right here in Chamonix. 726 00:39:27,000 --> 00:39:28,559 Right back then, 727 00:39:28,560 --> 00:39:31,760 it was considered to be a place of horror. 728 00:39:35,840 --> 00:39:41,279 I don't know if we're really frightened by the mountains anymore, 729 00:39:41,280 --> 00:39:42,479 but perhaps we should be, 730 00:39:42,480 --> 00:39:44,839 because it's been calculated or estimated 731 00:39:44,840 --> 00:39:49,119 between 100 and 150 people a year 732 00:39:49,120 --> 00:39:51,239 die in the Alps. 733 00:39:51,240 --> 00:39:56,239 Mont Blanc itself is the most dangerous mountain in Europe. 734 00:39:56,240 --> 00:40:02,999 It's claimed about 8,000 lives since it was first climbed. 735 00:40:03,000 --> 00:40:07,439 But the mountain activities have death written into them. 736 00:40:07,440 --> 00:40:09,479 So people die paragliding, 737 00:40:09,480 --> 00:40:11,199 they die mountain biking, 738 00:40:11,200 --> 00:40:13,119 they die just hiking, 739 00:40:13,120 --> 00:40:15,999 as well as climbing or skiing off-piste. 740 00:40:16,000 --> 00:40:18,519 People are always testing themselves, 741 00:40:18,520 --> 00:40:21,120 and sometimes they lose. 742 00:40:28,160 --> 00:40:31,999 Fortunately, the French Alps are full of those who can help. 743 00:40:32,000 --> 00:40:34,199 I want to get beyond the selfie world. 744 00:40:34,200 --> 00:40:36,719 I want to take the less-trodden way 745 00:40:36,720 --> 00:40:39,239 in search of the unexpected and wild. 746 00:40:39,240 --> 00:40:42,879 So I'm off further east to Argentiere. 747 00:40:42,880 --> 00:40:45,759 I'm back on the Mont Blanc tramway. 748 00:40:45,760 --> 00:40:48,879 And we're going four stops up. 749 00:40:48,880 --> 00:40:52,279 This time, I'm hoping for a guide 750 00:40:52,280 --> 00:40:55,439 to take me off the beaten track. 751 00:40:55,440 --> 00:40:59,319 And that's looking for a creature that... 752 00:40:59,320 --> 00:41:02,999 HE LAUGHS ...lives off the beaten track. 753 00:41:03,000 --> 00:41:05,200 A thing called an ibex. 754 00:41:06,440 --> 00:41:09,199 Of course, if I'd gone looking for an ibex about 200 years ago, 755 00:41:09,200 --> 00:41:10,599 I'd have had a real problem, 756 00:41:10,600 --> 00:41:13,320 because they were hunted almost to extinction. 757 00:41:14,400 --> 00:41:18,639 And it was King of Italy Emanuel, 758 00:41:18,640 --> 00:41:22,159 who decided that he wanted to carry on hunting the beast. 759 00:41:22,160 --> 00:41:26,679 So he put a reserve together to protect them 760 00:41:26,680 --> 00:41:30,519 so that he would have plenty to shoot. 761 00:41:30,520 --> 00:41:34,319 As a result, there are now about 40,000 across the Alps. 762 00:41:34,320 --> 00:41:37,679 And I'm told that I might be able to go off with Pierre, 763 00:41:37,680 --> 00:41:39,400 and we might be able to see one. 764 00:41:43,920 --> 00:41:46,559 Pierre? Yes. Yeah. Good to meet you. 765 00:41:46,560 --> 00:41:47,679 Hi, I'm Griff. 766 00:41:47,680 --> 00:41:49,039 Griff, nice to see you. Yes. 767 00:41:49,040 --> 00:41:52,319 Yeah. So we're going off to try and find an ibex. 768 00:41:52,320 --> 00:41:53,919 Yeah, exactly. That's the plan. 769 00:41:53,920 --> 00:41:56,479 Good. We will try. In French, what's it called? 770 00:41:56,480 --> 00:41:58,599 We call it a bouquetin. A bouquetin. 771 00:41:58,600 --> 00:42:00,079 Bouquetin des Alpes. 772 00:42:00,080 --> 00:42:02,279 Des Alpes. OK. Yeah. So... OK. Great. 773 00:42:02,280 --> 00:42:04,999 Now, when we go, they are high. 774 00:42:05,000 --> 00:42:06,199 Yeah, quite high. Yeah, yeah. 775 00:42:06,200 --> 00:42:08,479 This is why we need to hike a bit... 776 00:42:08,480 --> 00:42:10,520 OK. ..to catch them or to see them. 777 00:42:21,320 --> 00:42:23,240 The thing is, as you come along... 778 00:42:24,960 --> 00:42:26,439 ...you walk up a hill 779 00:42:26,440 --> 00:42:29,199 and you look at the hill. 780 00:42:29,200 --> 00:42:30,679 PIERRE LAUGHS - Yeah. - You look at your feet. 781 00:42:30,680 --> 00:42:32,479 Exactly. You look at the path. Yeah. 782 00:42:32,480 --> 00:42:34,399 You have to stop every now and again... 783 00:42:34,400 --> 00:42:37,799 Yeah. ..to realise how high you've come. 784 00:42:37,800 --> 00:42:41,079 Yeah. And where are the ibex, too? 785 00:42:41,080 --> 00:42:42,959 Yeah. 786 00:42:42,960 --> 00:42:44,959 We'll rest here for just a bit. 787 00:42:44,960 --> 00:42:46,879 Yeah, this is their area. 788 00:42:46,880 --> 00:42:49,679 All right, so this is their area, and we're here. 789 00:42:49,680 --> 00:42:51,759 What do they come to eat? 790 00:42:51,760 --> 00:42:55,679 They love to eat alder trees and juniper trees. 791 00:42:55,680 --> 00:42:57,319 Right. This is what they love. 792 00:42:57,320 --> 00:43:01,359 And then here, we need to scan the landscape from there. Uh-huh. 793 00:43:01,360 --> 00:43:03,959 Is that ibex footprint? OK. That's one yeah. 794 00:43:03,960 --> 00:43:06,879 Look, I feel like a Boy Scout here. 795 00:43:06,880 --> 00:43:07,880 Look here! 796 00:43:09,280 --> 00:43:10,999 Ibex footprint. 797 00:43:11,000 --> 00:43:12,679 Look! Ibex footprint. 798 00:43:12,680 --> 00:43:14,559 And what do we notice? 799 00:43:14,560 --> 00:43:17,119 A split hoof. Yeah. 800 00:43:17,120 --> 00:43:20,199 We can see very well... Yes. Yeah. ...on the snow. Yeah. 801 00:43:20,200 --> 00:43:22,759 With the binoculars, with our eyes... 802 00:43:22,760 --> 00:43:24,679 Yes. ..to see if something is moving. 803 00:43:24,680 --> 00:43:26,319 OK. There is one there. 804 00:43:26,320 --> 00:43:28,519 There is something which is moving. 805 00:43:28,520 --> 00:43:29,759 It's ibex. 806 00:43:29,760 --> 00:43:32,039 We can see his head. 807 00:43:32,040 --> 00:43:34,319 As you can see on the top of the rocks, 808 00:43:34,320 --> 00:43:35,879 it looks like a male. 809 00:43:35,880 --> 00:43:38,119 And the male is looking at us. 810 00:43:38,120 --> 00:43:40,639 Yes, exactly. I can see him. 811 00:43:40,640 --> 00:43:43,879 He spot us, actually, before we spot him. GRIFF LAUGHS 812 00:43:43,880 --> 00:43:48,119 Yes. They have also a huge lung capacity. 813 00:43:48,120 --> 00:43:52,399 So when they escape, they can go very far away very quickly... 814 00:43:52,400 --> 00:43:55,199 Really? ..in a very, very steep area... Yeah. ..like that. 815 00:43:55,200 --> 00:43:58,119 But we are not afraid of him. 816 00:43:58,120 --> 00:44:00,359 We just want to admire him. 817 00:44:00,360 --> 00:44:01,839 Yes, indeed. 818 00:44:01,840 --> 00:44:04,239 And now he's looking at us. 819 00:44:04,240 --> 00:44:05,719 He's keeping a good eye on us. 820 00:44:05,720 --> 00:44:08,199 Yeah. We see his curved horns 821 00:44:08,200 --> 00:44:12,879 that the length can go to 1m. 822 00:44:12,880 --> 00:44:15,559 Yeah. There's something very good 823 00:44:15,560 --> 00:44:18,519 about the fact that he's watching us so closely. GRIFF LAUGHS 824 00:44:18,520 --> 00:44:21,839 It really feels like first contact. 825 00:44:21,840 --> 00:44:25,239 And he's just presumably wondering 826 00:44:25,240 --> 00:44:28,319 if we're going to come up and start shooting him, 827 00:44:28,320 --> 00:44:29,599 which we are. 828 00:44:29,600 --> 00:44:31,799 Yes, but not with a gun, 829 00:44:31,800 --> 00:44:32,800 with a camera. 830 00:44:36,680 --> 00:44:39,759 I'll try not to yell as I fall off the path 831 00:44:39,760 --> 00:44:40,880 and down the cliff. 832 00:44:47,240 --> 00:44:48,240 There he is. 833 00:44:49,400 --> 00:44:52,399 I'm going to use up one of my wows. 834 00:44:52,400 --> 00:44:53,400 Wow! 835 00:44:58,120 --> 00:45:01,039 When you've climbed up 836 00:45:01,040 --> 00:45:04,399 through snow and rain and rock 837 00:45:04,400 --> 00:45:05,919 in search of him, 838 00:45:05,920 --> 00:45:07,399 and there he is, 839 00:45:07,400 --> 00:45:09,279 there's something exciting. 840 00:45:09,280 --> 00:45:11,959 You feel, you know, you've achieved something. 841 00:45:11,960 --> 00:45:15,319 He looks so fantastically noble. Pride. 842 00:45:15,320 --> 00:45:16,559 Pride. Pride. Yeah. 843 00:45:16,560 --> 00:45:17,600 Look at that. 844 00:45:20,560 --> 00:45:22,039 I've definitely seen, OK, 845 00:45:22,040 --> 00:45:24,440 seen something awesome. 846 00:45:35,320 --> 00:45:36,959 There are, in fact, 847 00:45:36,960 --> 00:45:40,079 very few untrodden paths 848 00:45:40,080 --> 00:45:42,279 in this part of the Alps. 849 00:45:42,280 --> 00:45:46,559 Jean-Marie told me he'd climbed virtually every rock 850 00:45:46,560 --> 00:45:48,599 that I could look at. HE LAUGHS 851 00:45:48,600 --> 00:45:50,759 All the routes have been explored. 852 00:45:50,760 --> 00:45:54,679 Every way that you could go has been gone. 853 00:45:54,680 --> 00:45:56,999 So it's very complicated 854 00:45:57,000 --> 00:46:01,319 to get beyond les sentiers battus, 855 00:46:01,320 --> 00:46:03,999 and I'm not sure that I've achieved it. 856 00:46:04,000 --> 00:46:05,959 But it's time for me to go on. 857 00:46:05,960 --> 00:46:07,799 Next week, 858 00:46:07,800 --> 00:46:09,640 I'm going that way. 859 00:46:12,040 --> 00:46:13,119 Next time. 860 00:46:13,120 --> 00:46:15,359 Run, run, run, run! There! 861 00:46:15,360 --> 00:46:17,079 Please, be careful. 862 00:46:17,080 --> 00:46:19,199 This is so Dr. No, 863 00:46:19,200 --> 00:46:20,639 real James Bond stuff. 864 00:46:20,640 --> 00:46:22,519 Swiss wrestling. 865 00:46:22,520 --> 00:46:24,359 I'm just grateful that I'm not doing it. 866 00:46:24,360 --> 00:46:26,719 I really hope I haven't spoken too soon. 867 00:46:26,720 --> 00:46:28,720 Subtitles by Red Bee Media