1 00:00:23,533 --> 00:00:26,100 ...that would blow through the canyons. 2 00:00:26,281 --> 00:00:30,868 It was a hot wind called a Santa Ana and it carried the smell... 3 00:00:31,086 --> 00:00:32,787 ...of warm places. 4 00:00:32,958 --> 00:00:37,129 It blew the strongest before dawn across the Point. 5 00:00:43,137 --> 00:00:45,457 We would sleep in our cars... 6 00:00:45,805 --> 00:00:48,434 ...and the smell of the wind would wake us. 7 00:00:48,649 --> 00:00:52,388 And each morning, we knew this would be a special day. 8 00:02:54,913 --> 00:02:56,871 I'm never gonna drink again. 9 00:02:57,074 --> 00:03:00,670 If you hadn't passed out, it woulïve been okay. 10 00:03:00,923 --> 00:03:02,376 Where's your board? 11 00:03:02,586 --> 00:03:04,703 - In my car. - Where's your car? 12 00:03:04,916 --> 00:03:08,423 - I don't know. - Wait. Stop. Wait a minute. 13 00:03:09,094 --> 00:03:11,716 - Look at that. - Good swell. 14 00:03:12,011 --> 00:03:15,766 - Wait a minute. - If you want to go down these steps... 15 00:03:15,980 --> 00:03:18,265 ...you have to do it on your own. 16 00:03:19,017 --> 00:03:21,600 I remember the three friends best. 17 00:03:21,821 --> 00:03:26,438 Matt, Jack, Leroy. It was their time. 18 00:03:26,770 --> 00:03:30,118 They were the big names then. The kings. 19 00:03:30,290 --> 00:03:34,188 Our own royalty. It was really their place... 20 00:03:34,403 --> 00:03:36,625 ...and their story. 21 00:04:03,657 --> 00:04:06,572 I'm Leroy, the Masochist. I live here. 22 00:04:06,783 --> 00:04:11,495 My friend is close to death, and we need to get him in the water. 23 00:04:11,708 --> 00:04:14,489 - Could we possibly use your fine...? - Hey, man. 24 00:04:14,705 --> 00:04:19,540 - I don't lend my stick to anyone. - I understand what you mean about... 25 00:04:19,759 --> 00:04:24,303 ...not lending your board out. This is Matt Johnson. He lives here... 26 00:04:24,853 --> 00:04:28,503 ...along with me and Mr. Barlow. May I please borrow it? 27 00:04:28,717 --> 00:04:32,888 I'll bring it back to you personally, my word of honor. 28 00:04:34,189 --> 00:04:37,600 - I can't lend my stick to a ho-dad. - He's no ho-dad. 29 00:04:37,820 --> 00:04:41,265 Thats Matt Johnson! Can I please use your board? 30 00:04:41,484 --> 00:04:43,690 My dad just bought this. 31 00:04:45,244 --> 00:04:48,159 We want to use your board! That’s all! 32 00:04:48,370 --> 00:04:50,071 You can use my board. 33 00:04:50,282 --> 00:04:52,042 Thank you. 34 00:04:52,259 --> 00:04:54,579 Back over here. Johnson! 35 00:04:55,296 --> 00:04:56,917 I've got a vehicle. 36 00:05:00,261 --> 00:05:04,202 You're gonna have to get up there on your own. 37 00:05:04,383 --> 00:05:07,226 That’s not Matt Johnson. 38 00:05:07,685 --> 00:05:09,757 See you later, Matt. 39 00:05:15,776 --> 00:05:18,885 - Oh, its cold! - You're doing fine. 40 00:05:19,576 --> 00:05:22,064 Just keep paddling, Matt. 41 00:05:28,712 --> 00:05:31,371 I'm gonna drown. 42 00:05:34,802 --> 00:05:38,079 Do what you have to. I've gotta get some waves. 43 00:05:38,297 --> 00:05:41,263 If you leave me, I'm gonna drown. 44 00:05:42,555 --> 00:05:43,928 I'm gonna drown... 45 00:05:44,138 --> 00:05:48,557 ...and all you're gonna find is this shitty old board. 46 00:05:57,074 --> 00:05:59,111 - Man! - They'll all drown. 47 00:06:04,787 --> 00:06:07,985 He's gonna get sucked over! Look at the guy! 48 00:06:13,047 --> 00:06:14,454 Look at the guy! 49 00:06:27,766 --> 00:06:29,324 I don't believe it! 50 00:06:46,005 --> 00:06:50,176 - Nobody's that good! - That is Matt Johnson! 51 00:06:51,348 --> 00:06:54,750 Matt Johnson on my board! 52 00:07:05,698 --> 00:07:08,357 Its gonna be a real hooter tonight. 53 00:07:08,855 --> 00:07:13,106 - I scored a keg for your party. - I don't know about any party. 54 00:07:13,322 --> 00:07:17,318 Come on, summer's almost over. Lets get radical. 55 00:07:18,207 --> 00:07:22,665 - Come on. You're just getting old. - He was born old. 56 00:07:38,945 --> 00:07:40,769 My wave! 57 00:08:05,210 --> 00:08:07,793 All right, lets do it! 58 00:08:32,616 --> 00:08:36,787 Would you like to go to a party with me tonight at Barlow's? 59 00:08:36,963 --> 00:08:38,618 I don't even know you. 60 00:08:38,795 --> 00:08:42,134 I'm Leroy, the Masochist, and I'll do anything. 61 00:08:42,306 --> 00:08:44,671 What a radical guy. 62 00:09:08,780 --> 00:09:12,951 Enforcer! Go get her! 63 00:09:15,328 --> 00:09:18,091 Get her number, Enforcer! She's your type! 64 00:09:18,590 --> 00:09:23,753 Those Valley barbarians are using women in the front ranks. 65 00:09:24,142 --> 00:09:27,092 Taking advantage of our chivalry. 66 00:09:28,633 --> 00:09:31,271 Hey, you dumb Okie! 67 00:09:31,944 --> 00:09:33,397 Hey, Johnson! 68 00:09:34,314 --> 00:09:37,325 - Matt, get over here. - We'll buddy up. 69 00:09:44,164 --> 00:09:46,529 Dive over. 70 00:09:48,824 --> 00:09:53,996 After we surfed, we'd go down to the old pier... 71 00:09:54,216 --> 00:09:58,085 ...to the Bear's shop. Bear made our boards and told stories. 72 00:09:58,305 --> 00:10:01,007 He knew where waves came from and why. 73 00:10:01,222 --> 00:10:05,641 Like the surfers that came before us, we saw everything in the Bear. 74 00:10:06,685 --> 00:10:11,550 - Was Matt always hot? - You think he's pretty great, huh? 75 00:10:11,763 --> 00:10:16,678 Well, he is good. So is Jack and Leroy, in his own way. 76 00:10:16,857 --> 00:10:20,239 He could use a little more experience. 77 00:10:20,537 --> 00:10:23,150 They'd get it if they kept on surfing. 78 00:10:23,365 --> 00:10:27,368 What? Those guys are so stoked, they'll surf forever. 79 00:10:27,583 --> 00:10:29,238 Nobody surfs forever... 80 00:10:31,585 --> 00:10:36,332 ...except for old Shopping Cart. He's the only one thats left. 81 00:10:40,728 --> 00:10:44,299 - How you doing? - Got any chopped mussel? 82 00:10:44,512 --> 00:10:46,584 Same as yesterday. 83 00:10:46,818 --> 00:10:49,645 I caught me a couple of fish. 84 00:10:50,144 --> 00:10:52,766 Caught me a tuna... 85 00:10:52,981 --> 00:10:57,976 ...and a halibut. Look at that. 86 00:10:58,444 --> 00:11:00,516 That halibut looks short. 87 00:11:00,750 --> 00:11:03,993 - They're supposed to be about 22. - For sure? 88 00:11:04,205 --> 00:11:06,738 You'd better get it back in your sack. 89 00:11:07,676 --> 00:11:11,663 Have you seen the law around here lately? 90 00:11:11,878 --> 00:11:13,995 Not yet. 91 00:11:15,309 --> 00:11:17,797 Get him some chopped mussel. 92 00:11:18,884 --> 00:11:21,417 I don't think he'll see that now. 93 00:11:21,648 --> 00:11:24,261 What kind of board is this? 94 00:11:24,436 --> 00:11:27,351 I've never seen a shape like this before. 95 00:11:27,562 --> 00:11:29,606 - A big-wave board. - Thank you. 96 00:11:29,819 --> 00:11:31,281 A gun. 97 00:11:32,447 --> 00:11:35,228 I rode this board in the Islands. 98 00:11:36,416 --> 00:11:40,235 Once I rode it alone in Point Surf at Makaha at 20 feet. 99 00:11:40,618 --> 00:11:45,083 - You rode 20 feet alone? - You're always alone, anyway. 100 00:11:45,294 --> 00:11:47,748 That’s the test of a surfer. 101 00:11:47,962 --> 00:11:50,637 You shouldn't have to depend on anybody. 102 00:11:50,806 --> 00:11:54,411 - Will you ever ride this board again? - I don't know. 103 00:11:54,630 --> 00:11:56,806 It would take a big day. 104 00:11:56,976 --> 00:12:01,627 But then you hear talk of a big day every now and then, huh? 105 00:12:03,010 --> 00:12:04,522 It'll happen again. 106 00:12:05,694 --> 00:12:10,441 - It happened in '50. - He rode. I was here. 107 00:12:10,659 --> 00:12:15,310 It’ll be a swell so big and strong it will wipe everything clean. 108 00:12:15,528 --> 00:12:18,459 That’s when this board will be ridden. 109 00:12:18,670 --> 00:12:22,657 That’s when Matt, Jack and Leroy... 110 00:12:22,872 --> 00:12:25,501 ...they could distinguish themselves. 111 00:12:25,716 --> 00:12:29,657 That’s the day they can draw the line. 112 00:12:54,834 --> 00:12:57,909 I hear you're having a party tonight. 113 00:13:04,997 --> 00:13:08,875 - I told you, no dirty feet in here. - Yes, ma'am. 114 00:13:09,055 --> 00:13:11,454 - The special today? - Medium and rare. 115 00:13:11,674 --> 00:13:14,933 - I'll have spaghetti. - Smart mouth. 116 00:13:15,185 --> 00:13:18,055 Make mine raw, with spaghetti. 117 00:13:18,222 --> 00:13:21,931 - You can walk mine down to the grill. - And a wiseass. 118 00:13:22,151 --> 00:13:25,066 - Spaghetti. Two, please. - Yes, ma'am. 119 00:13:25,735 --> 00:13:28,905 I hear you're having another party tonight. 120 00:13:29,117 --> 00:13:33,768 - All the punks are talking about it. - I don't know about any party. 121 00:13:34,460 --> 00:13:37,658 Does your mother know? I bet not. 122 00:13:37,875 --> 00:13:42,260 - Destructo! - Will you delinquents shut up? 123 00:13:42,471 --> 00:13:46,751 Someday you'll have to straighten out and earn a decent living. 124 00:13:47,758 --> 00:13:50,883 Pay attention and grow up sometime. 125 00:13:51,100 --> 00:13:54,095 Turn into a respectable person. 126 00:13:54,306 --> 00:13:57,149 He's a well-respected surfer. 127 00:13:57,946 --> 00:14:00,932 That’s not a sport, its a disease. 128 00:14:03,449 --> 00:14:04,856 Well... 129 00:14:05,072 --> 00:14:07,942 I see you boys have noticed. This is Sally. 130 00:14:08,158 --> 00:14:11,001 She's from Chicago, and she's a nice girl. 131 00:14:11,211 --> 00:14:14,152 I don't want you to give her no trouble. 132 00:14:19,093 --> 00:14:22,802 You're from Chicago? Been out here a long time? 133 00:14:23,022 --> 00:14:25,467 - About three weeks. - You like it here? 134 00:14:25,681 --> 00:14:27,134 I like it a lot. 135 00:14:27,473 --> 00:14:29,809 This is raw. 136 00:14:29,988 --> 00:14:31,352 Mine too. 137 00:14:31,562 --> 00:14:35,344 I really like the way a square-tail breaks in the turn... 138 00:14:35,564 --> 00:14:39,612 ...you get right up on the nose. - That’s just your Okie attitude. 139 00:14:39,822 --> 00:14:43,657 - A pintail... - Ever go down to the beach? 140 00:14:43,871 --> 00:14:46,325 On the weekends. Sundays, mostly. 141 00:14:46,499 --> 00:14:49,158 Soft rocks feel good, huh? 142 00:14:49,496 --> 00:14:53,205 - I think I'll throw my food on you. - I wouldn't do that. 143 00:14:53,923 --> 00:14:56,456 Hey, wait just a damn minute! 144 00:15:03,797 --> 00:15:06,346 Get out! Now! Get out! Come on! 145 00:15:06,850 --> 00:15:08,842 Outside! 146 00:15:10,225 --> 00:15:12,065 Come on! Out! 147 00:15:14,572 --> 00:15:17,601 Take it out! And you, watch it! 148 00:16:04,579 --> 00:16:07,422 You're having a party tonight, right? 149 00:16:17,137 --> 00:16:18,331 Yeah. 150 00:16:27,518 --> 00:16:31,600 - Matt! You bring cerveza? - She's in the trunk. 151 00:16:41,112 --> 00:16:45,620 - Hi, Matt! Peggy! - The Enforcer. Shake a tail feather. 152 00:16:51,140 --> 00:16:54,135 We're here! The party can start! 153 00:17:04,365 --> 00:17:09,016 - Who are all these people? - I have no idea. I've never seen them. 154 00:17:31,602 --> 00:17:34,845 We thought this was the bathroom. 155 00:17:35,057 --> 00:17:39,849 - It's right down the hall. - Bye-bye. See you in a few minutes. 156 00:17:40,440 --> 00:17:43,142 Don't forget your shoe. 157 00:17:47,695 --> 00:17:51,354 I had no idea... 158 00:17:52,211 --> 00:17:57,190 Matt is responsible for all this. He invited people I don't even know. 159 00:17:57,409 --> 00:18:00,500 - The music's too loud. - Matt Johnson invited... 160 00:18:00,711 --> 00:18:05,715 - The music is still too loud! - We'll turn it down. 161 00:18:05,934 --> 00:18:11,215 - I can't believe it. - Keep Crusher off my coffee table. 162 00:18:15,728 --> 00:18:16,888 I don't know. 163 00:18:17,102 --> 00:18:20,777 I can't believe you'd wear those shoes to this. 164 00:18:21,400 --> 00:18:25,228 You've got a great figure. Is that a padded bra? 165 00:18:25,442 --> 00:18:28,949 - No, this is all me. - You're kidding! 166 00:18:29,162 --> 00:18:32,573 - You should try a padded bra. - I have one on. 167 00:18:32,786 --> 00:18:34,255 I'm sorry. 168 00:18:36,377 --> 00:18:40,762 - Sally, hi! Come over here. - How are you? 169 00:18:40,933 --> 00:18:45,336 Two of us in one sleeping bag! He has the nerve. 170 00:18:45,593 --> 00:18:48,268 He's always with somebody else. 171 00:19:23,347 --> 00:19:27,288 - What are they doing? - We're gonna roast the Masochist. 172 00:19:27,509 --> 00:19:31,307 - How do you like haole? - Medium, so he stays real ono. 173 00:19:31,478 --> 00:19:35,171 His ancestors were cannibals. They ate Captain Cook. 174 00:19:35,391 --> 00:19:37,062 I missed your elbow. 175 00:19:37,279 --> 00:19:40,397 Let me know when you're floured, Leroy. 176 00:19:40,614 --> 00:19:43,377 I'll be right back. I'm going to sleep. 177 00:19:44,334 --> 00:19:48,455 - They're gonna cook you, huh? - I don't give a damn. 178 00:19:48,656 --> 00:19:52,827 - That feels great. - How far can you go? 179 00:19:53,043 --> 00:19:55,451 You know how far I can go. 180 00:19:55,671 --> 00:19:58,548 If they dragged me away, would you come get me? 181 00:19:58,764 --> 00:20:00,003 Yes. 182 00:20:02,797 --> 00:20:05,683 - Would you come and...? - No matter what? 183 00:20:05,899 --> 00:20:09,424 - You know I'd come and get you. - No matter what? 184 00:20:09,603 --> 00:20:10,628 Yeah. 185 00:20:15,902 --> 00:20:18,913 Its really different here. 186 00:20:21,205 --> 00:20:23,570 How do you mean? 187 00:20:23,784 --> 00:20:25,535 Well... 188 00:20:25,712 --> 00:20:29,699 ...back home, being young... 189 00:20:29,874 --> 00:20:33,922 ...was just something you do until you grow up. 190 00:20:36,093 --> 00:20:37,828 And, well, here... 191 00:20:39,813 --> 00:20:42,674 ...here its everything! 192 00:20:43,268 --> 00:20:48,556 - You think I can fit in there? - Keep down in a crouch. Go for it! 193 00:21:00,293 --> 00:21:02,083 Hello? 194 00:21:03,370 --> 00:21:06,877 You got a bunch of surfers in there? 195 00:21:08,215 --> 00:21:11,706 - Gosh sakes alive! - Its Hog. 196 00:21:11,919 --> 00:21:15,098 Is there a party going on here, shorty? 197 00:21:15,310 --> 00:21:19,465 What's your name? You want to get our hats and coats? 198 00:21:21,440 --> 00:21:23,512 This guy have a coat rack? 199 00:21:23,730 --> 00:21:26,263 Oh, jeez, you got bad breath! 200 00:21:27,225 --> 00:21:30,686 I think there's some crashers downstairs. 201 00:21:30,905 --> 00:21:32,278 Yeah, sure. 202 00:21:32,777 --> 00:21:37,906 Listen, peewee, I could probably drop-kick you from here to... 203 00:21:38,120 --> 00:21:41,413 Get out of here. Come on, party-man. 204 00:21:41,631 --> 00:21:45,404 - Hog, how you doing? - Boy, oh, boy, what an outfit! 205 00:21:45,624 --> 00:21:48,635 What are you, a barbequed pig or something? 206 00:21:49,384 --> 00:21:52,299 - You guys have invitations? - We do. I'm it. 207 00:21:52,510 --> 00:21:54,334 - Where? - You're looking at it. 208 00:21:55,169 --> 00:21:56,299 Really! 209 00:21:56,479 --> 00:21:59,226 - Who are you? - I'm just going by rules. 210 00:21:59,436 --> 00:22:00,923 Is that right? Whose...? 211 00:22:02,135 --> 00:22:03,399 Crashers! 212 00:22:04,032 --> 00:22:05,271 Crashers! 213 00:22:06,362 --> 00:22:08,143 Crashers?! 214 00:22:10,789 --> 00:22:12,062 Come on, hit me! 215 00:22:13,199 --> 00:22:14,481 Barbarians. 216 00:22:15,320 --> 00:22:17,656 Crashers! 217 00:22:28,176 --> 00:22:31,187 Chubby! Crashers! You wanna fight? 218 00:22:31,349 --> 00:22:33,669 We'll get them later. 219 00:22:49,821 --> 00:22:51,324 My head! 220 00:22:57,823 --> 00:23:00,045 - Crusher, no! - Oh, yeah! 221 00:23:16,898 --> 00:23:20,855 Where's that water-fucking buddy of yours, Hog? 222 00:23:30,114 --> 00:23:31,228 The Enforcer. 223 00:23:31,737 --> 00:23:35,412 Big Al, I've been waiting for this a long time. 224 00:24:16,964 --> 00:24:19,124 Open the window, Linda. 225 00:24:24,975 --> 00:24:27,126 Come on, hit me! I love it! 226 00:24:47,576 --> 00:24:49,197 Come on! 227 00:24:50,718 --> 00:24:54,953 - Why don't you get back to Burbank! - You chicken! 228 00:24:55,129 --> 00:24:56,154 Mama! 229 00:25:01,428 --> 00:25:04,103 All right! 230 00:25:06,233 --> 00:25:08,712 You'll pay for that window! 231 00:25:08,932 --> 00:25:12,562 Hey, you guys, split! 232 00:27:02,325 --> 00:27:05,568 Mexico! Surfboards! 233 00:27:06,318 --> 00:27:08,142 Women! 234 00:27:09,451 --> 00:27:11,443 Guns! 235 00:27:11,661 --> 00:27:14,363 Will you quit waving that around? 236 00:27:14,569 --> 00:27:19,786 We will take over Tijuana. We will have cerveza, we will have fiesta. 237 00:27:20,001 --> 00:27:25,243 - Are we gonna be all right? - We'll shoot our way out of trouble. 238 00:27:25,464 --> 00:27:26,792 Cool it. 239 00:27:29,731 --> 00:27:34,844 This beach break is pretty good. Look at this beach break, Matt. 240 00:27:35,765 --> 00:27:38,856 - How big is it? - About three foot. 241 00:27:40,232 --> 00:27:42,517 Mexico's gonna be all right. 242 00:27:43,060 --> 00:27:45,744 Masochisto! 243 00:27:59,836 --> 00:28:01,580 More beer! 244 00:28:11,262 --> 00:28:14,059 Seeing as how we're here in Tijuana... 245 00:28:14,275 --> 00:28:16,258 ...I wanna say something. 246 00:28:16,476 --> 00:28:18,732 Why don't you say it? 247 00:28:21,072 --> 00:28:22,773 I'm pregnant. 248 00:28:24,736 --> 00:28:26,373 - What? - Pregnant? 249 00:28:31,662 --> 00:28:35,531 I scared the crap out of you, didn't I? 250 00:28:37,005 --> 00:28:40,130 - That means you're kidding, huh? - No, I'm not. 251 00:28:40,347 --> 00:28:43,918 - Peggy, Peggy. - I'm gonna have a baby. 252 00:28:44,091 --> 00:28:48,094 - I am really stoked. - Johnson's going white on her. 253 00:28:49,643 --> 00:28:51,928 - What will you do? - Be a mama. 254 00:28:52,102 --> 00:28:55,554 - You mean you're gonna keep it? - Of course. 255 00:28:55,822 --> 00:28:58,142 Let me offer my congratulations. 256 00:28:58,361 --> 00:29:01,406 He'll be the best surfer to surf the Point. 257 00:29:01,623 --> 00:29:04,404 Congratulations, Masochist. 258 00:29:04,611 --> 00:29:07,374 Lets have a drink to the gremmie. 259 00:29:07,584 --> 00:29:09,080 - To the grem. - A toast. 260 00:29:09,296 --> 00:29:12,237 Everybody up. Chicago, get your can up. 261 00:29:12,622 --> 00:29:14,462 Aunt Sally. 262 00:29:15,097 --> 00:29:18,916 - Congratulations, P.G. - Thank you. 263 00:29:30,483 --> 00:29:34,806 This is a bird of love. He always says,"Sí, sí!" 264 00:29:37,160 --> 00:29:40,899 - Mister, want your shoes shined? - Skulls! 265 00:29:41,113 --> 00:29:44,486 - You sit the camera on top. - Shoeshine! 266 00:29:47,661 --> 00:29:49,298 Hit it. 267 00:29:51,670 --> 00:29:54,788 Hey, amigo! Over here! 268 00:29:55,005 --> 00:29:56,181 Reefers. 269 00:29:56,435 --> 00:29:58,304 Reefers? 270 00:29:59,014 --> 00:30:01,459 Marijuana! 271 00:30:04,855 --> 00:30:06,183 A zebra! 272 00:30:06,349 --> 00:30:11,692 Burrito! Thats what they make burritos out of! Kill! 273 00:30:11,861 --> 00:30:15,104 Will you guys leave him alone? 274 00:30:20,032 --> 00:30:22,520 Showtime! No cover charge. 275 00:30:22,740 --> 00:30:27,327 You don't pay to see nothing. Miss Acapulco is still with us. 276 00:30:27,545 --> 00:30:31,875 Come in! Its the best show in town. 277 00:30:32,092 --> 00:30:33,374 - Matt! - Thats Leroy! 278 00:30:33,555 --> 00:30:38,381 This man's gonna sell me his sister. He's got pictures and everything. 279 00:30:39,605 --> 00:30:43,210 - When the hell are you coming back? - I don't know! 280 00:30:44,385 --> 00:30:46,191 - I hope he has fun. - Lets go. 281 00:30:48,901 --> 00:30:51,992 - Do they take it off? - All the way. 282 00:31:12,603 --> 00:31:16,128 Teresa, show them you're the virgin here. The only virgin. 283 00:31:16,347 --> 00:31:19,313 Sixteen years old. Look at her, boys! 284 00:31:44,082 --> 00:31:48,308 Come on, baby, shake it. Show them what you got. Yeah! 285 00:31:56,938 --> 00:31:59,844 Hey, Marie, showtime! 286 00:32:06,154 --> 00:32:09,820 Come on! Lets hear it for Teresa! 287 00:32:17,338 --> 00:32:20,661 You're Matt Johnson, huh? 288 00:32:23,428 --> 00:32:28,709 I've seen you rip ass at the Point. You really turn on, man. 289 00:32:29,149 --> 00:32:30,770 Thanks. 290 00:32:39,481 --> 00:32:44,034 Thats the Point grinder, huh? 291 00:32:44,784 --> 00:32:48,523 I hear she really pulls a lot of trains. 292 00:32:54,827 --> 00:32:56,155 No. 293 00:33:00,837 --> 00:33:02,795 Thats Peggy Gordon. 294 00:33:03,207 --> 00:33:06,971 Hey, man, I'm just looking for a good time. 295 00:35:11,737 --> 00:35:13,019 Hey, everybody! 296 00:35:13,489 --> 00:35:16,446 The new Mrs. Masochist. I got married. 297 00:35:16,662 --> 00:35:19,780 You think this is funny, dumb-ass? 298 00:35:21,202 --> 00:35:24,416 - See whats happened? - My friends are in a mess. 299 00:35:24,633 --> 00:35:26,750 I'm gonna have to go. 300 00:35:36,170 --> 00:35:37,728 What happened? 301 00:35:37,898 --> 00:35:39,970 What happened? 302 00:36:26,242 --> 00:36:28,696 How was Mexico? 303 00:36:32,919 --> 00:36:36,772 - Give me some of that wine! - You're back, man! 304 00:36:46,811 --> 00:36:49,210 Fucking hell! 305 00:36:50,217 --> 00:36:54,140 Move inland. Live under a roof. 306 00:36:54,355 --> 00:36:57,721 Taxes, marriage, divorce... 307 00:36:57,939 --> 00:37:00,568 ...the whole damn thing! 308 00:37:01,490 --> 00:37:05,229 Oh, I'm in for it now. 309 00:37:06,359 --> 00:37:09,034 They've condemned the pier, Jack. 310 00:37:09,243 --> 00:37:12,158 You'll be living under the lifeguard state. 311 00:37:12,738 --> 00:37:16,086 They're already taking over the Point! 312 00:37:19,833 --> 00:37:23,294 I won't be able to make your boards anymore. 313 00:37:24,798 --> 00:37:29,554 I gotta start going and living like an inlander. 314 00:37:55,410 --> 00:38:00,459 The summers passed with each year. I don 't seem to remember them anymore. 315 00:38:00,673 --> 00:38:04,046 I remember the fall and the coming of winter. 316 00:38:23,981 --> 00:38:26,282 The water got cold. 317 00:38:26,496 --> 00:38:29,277 It was a time of the west swell. 318 00:38:29,622 --> 00:38:32,083 A swell of change. 319 00:38:32,426 --> 00:38:35,615 A swell you usually rode alone. 320 00:39:33,955 --> 00:39:35,983 Down behind the wall! Get up. 321 00:39:36,196 --> 00:39:41,627 There's a county ordinance. You can 't sleep here overnight. Get up... 322 00:39:43,331 --> 00:39:48,335 Matt, is that you? I didn't even recognize you! Get up here. 323 00:39:48,554 --> 00:39:51,247 Does Peggy know where you are? 324 00:39:54,130 --> 00:39:56,174 Would you look at yourself? 325 00:39:57,343 --> 00:39:59,919 You look like crap! 326 00:40:01,096 --> 00:40:03,397 Come here for a minute, all right? 327 00:40:06,937 --> 00:40:10,478 Stuff it, lifeguard! 328 00:40:26,750 --> 00:40:28,787 Leroy! 329 00:40:31,804 --> 00:40:34,551 - Induction? - Yeah. 330 00:40:34,761 --> 00:40:36,849 What date? 331 00:40:37,227 --> 00:40:39,264 The 15th. 332 00:40:42,554 --> 00:40:44,730 The 15th? I'm getting a transfer. 333 00:40:44,900 --> 00:40:48,639 I'm gonna screw them around. We'll all go on the 15th. 334 00:40:48,853 --> 00:40:51,029 I got a perfect plan. 335 00:40:51,248 --> 00:40:53,815 - Good idea. - Have you told Sally? 336 00:40:54,036 --> 00:40:56,729 No. I'll speak to her later. 337 00:40:56,944 --> 00:41:00,867 Uncle Jack, hi! 338 00:41:02,416 --> 00:41:03,689 Hi, sweetness. 339 00:41:03,910 --> 00:41:06,380 Are you gonna ride my surfboard? 340 00:41:09,253 --> 00:41:11,757 - Have you seen Matt? - I've seen him. 341 00:41:11,977 --> 00:41:15,468 - He got his draft notice. - We all did. 342 00:41:15,681 --> 00:41:19,772 - I'm worried. Did you talk to him? - He doesn't talk to me. 343 00:41:19,979 --> 00:41:22,139 I don't know whats wrong. 344 00:41:35,085 --> 00:41:38,071 Hey, man, thats Matt Johnson! 345 00:41:56,183 --> 00:42:00,816 - He used to be the best surfer here. - Ah, you're putting me on. 346 00:43:30,405 --> 00:43:32,131 Whats going on? 347 00:43:32,591 --> 00:43:34,372 Get off the beach, Matt. 348 00:43:36,962 --> 00:43:40,167 Get off the beach. Go on. 349 00:44:55,805 --> 00:44:57,087 Fine! 350 00:44:57,308 --> 00:45:00,506 Getting marrieïs more trouble than its worth. 351 00:45:00,674 --> 00:45:05,509 All the rigmarole with this tuxedo and wedding rehearsals... 352 00:45:06,515 --> 00:45:07,675 ...the cake! 353 00:45:07,889 --> 00:45:11,519 - Lf it makes her mother happy. - Of course. 354 00:45:11,698 --> 00:45:14,525 - Can I take a break? - Get in there! 355 00:45:15,040 --> 00:45:17,494 You've been taking breaks all day. 356 00:45:22,046 --> 00:45:25,660 Every time the waves come up, he wants to take off. 357 00:45:26,835 --> 00:45:30,208 Thats what I get for hiring surfer labor. 358 00:45:40,638 --> 00:45:41,841 Excuse me. 359 00:45:46,439 --> 00:45:51,274 Hey, cool it, you little cretin! Go outside and run down the shoppers. 360 00:45:52,080 --> 00:45:56,067 How you doing, buddy? Goddamn, you look terrible. 361 00:45:56,282 --> 00:45:59,159 Has somebody been beating on you? 362 00:46:03,417 --> 00:46:07,117 I got drunk and caused a wreck. Jack punched me. 363 00:46:07,426 --> 00:46:10,933 - Thats no way for a friend to act. - I was wrong. 364 00:46:11,146 --> 00:46:12,847 So what? 365 00:46:13,058 --> 00:46:17,939 Thats when you need a friend. When you're right, you don't need nothing. 366 00:46:21,607 --> 00:46:24,866 Come on, I wanna talk to you about a new board. 367 00:46:25,078 --> 00:46:29,943 - I wanna make a Matt Johnson board... - I don't want that, Bear. 368 00:46:30,156 --> 00:46:32,155 What do you mean? 369 00:46:33,080 --> 00:46:36,164 I'll bring my board back and pay for them from now on. 370 00:46:36,366 --> 00:46:38,870 I don't want to be a star. 371 00:46:41,380 --> 00:46:45,631 My picture in magazines, having kids look up to me. I'm a drunk. 372 00:46:46,345 --> 00:46:48,135 A screwup. 373 00:46:52,339 --> 00:46:56,014 I just surf because its good to ride with friends. 374 00:47:00,655 --> 00:47:03,482 I don't even have that anymore. 375 00:47:07,959 --> 00:47:10,022 How about those rails? 376 00:47:10,240 --> 00:47:13,235 You ought to know what I mean, Bear. 377 00:47:17,713 --> 00:47:20,972 Its not going right, and you can't understand it. 378 00:47:21,175 --> 00:47:23,751 Growing up's hard, ain't it, kid? 379 00:47:28,101 --> 00:47:29,508 Come on, Bear. 380 00:47:29,684 --> 00:47:34,396 Those kids do look up to you, whether you like it or not. 381 00:47:56,214 --> 00:48:00,751 You better pick out a new board now, don't you think? 382 00:48:05,928 --> 00:48:08,045 Yeah, Bear. 383 00:48:29,205 --> 00:48:32,410 Listen, I wanna go over the whole thing. 384 00:48:32,627 --> 00:48:35,497 - When the music stops, I want... - Relax! 385 00:48:35,713 --> 00:48:39,716 - You've brought it up about 25 times. - You're so nervous! 386 00:48:39,931 --> 00:48:41,250 Yes, I'm nervous. 387 00:48:46,439 --> 00:48:48,724 Its about time you showed up. 388 00:48:48,938 --> 00:48:52,941 - Mrs. Barlow, you look lovely today. - Thank you, Bear. 389 00:48:53,405 --> 00:48:56,728 - Hi, Bear. - Hi, Sally. 390 00:48:57,438 --> 00:49:00,572 Jack, come on over here. 391 00:49:01,158 --> 00:49:03,195 Have a drink with us. 392 00:49:03,408 --> 00:49:06,869 Excuse me for a second. I'll be right back. 393 00:49:11,290 --> 00:49:15,125 - Big day, huh? - Yeah, it sure is. 394 00:49:15,339 --> 00:49:18,582 - Here you go, have a drink. - No, I don't drink. 395 00:49:18,850 --> 00:49:22,791 For Goïs sake, its my wedding day! Have a drink. 396 00:49:22,972 --> 00:49:25,044 No... 397 00:49:25,471 --> 00:49:27,356 ...I don't think so, Bear. 398 00:49:29,858 --> 00:49:33,861 Your friends are the most important thing you've got. 399 00:49:36,077 --> 00:49:38,105 Have a drink. 400 00:49:44,995 --> 00:49:47,128 Come on, Barlow, have a drink. 401 00:49:56,517 --> 00:49:58,668 All right. 402 00:50:02,109 --> 00:50:05,386 - What are we drinking to? - Only to your friends. 403 00:50:05,604 --> 00:50:08,481 To your friends, come hell or high water! 404 00:50:34,713 --> 00:50:37,103 - He's on the wagon. - Novocaine lives! 405 00:50:37,268 --> 00:50:40,882 My friends, you've come together in this church... 406 00:50:41,101 --> 00:50:44,271 ...so the Lord may strengthen your love... 407 00:50:44,483 --> 00:50:47,230 ...and Christ blesses this love. 408 00:50:47,480 --> 00:50:50,243 He has consecrated you in baptism... 409 00:50:50,453 --> 00:50:54,360 ...and now he strengthens you by a special sacrament... 410 00:50:54,655 --> 00:50:57,079 ...so you may assume your duties... 411 00:50:57,250 --> 00:51:00,368 ...with mutual and lasting fidelity. 412 00:51:01,541 --> 00:51:04,914 Since its your intention to enter into marriage... 413 00:51:05,092 --> 00:51:08,920 ...we would ask you to present the ring, please. 414 00:51:18,237 --> 00:51:21,143 - The ring! - I don't have it. 415 00:51:21,354 --> 00:51:24,117 - Where is it? - Waxer. 416 00:51:24,785 --> 00:51:25,810 Get it! 417 00:51:27,951 --> 00:51:29,934 Waxer! 418 00:51:50,303 --> 00:51:52,807 Boss wedding, you guys! 419 00:51:58,812 --> 00:52:04,155 We would ask you to place the ring on the finger of your bride-to-be. 420 00:52:09,787 --> 00:52:13,710 I now pronounce you man and wife. 421 00:52:14,792 --> 00:52:17,460 You may kiss the bride. 422 00:53:58,455 --> 00:54:01,618 - Wear it in good health. - I will. 423 00:55:32,846 --> 00:55:34,627 Okay. 424 00:55:35,810 --> 00:55:38,760 Fill these out. Take them inside. 425 00:55:38,976 --> 00:55:41,644 Get to the end of the line. 426 00:55:43,283 --> 00:55:46,888 Here's where our hard work and training pays off. 427 00:55:47,107 --> 00:55:50,896 Good luck, old boy. Give them hell! 428 00:55:54,869 --> 00:55:56,788 Gentlemen, file out... 429 00:55:57,006 --> 00:56:00,699 ...have your A-forms prepared and all of your forms ready. 430 00:56:00,919 --> 00:56:03,594 Keep the line straight, please. 431 00:56:04,052 --> 00:56:06,258 File on out. 432 00:56:32,872 --> 00:56:34,944 Good morning, men! 433 00:56:35,122 --> 00:56:39,957 This is your induction physical. 434 00:56:40,963 --> 00:56:43,958 Now if you pass today... 435 00:56:44,643 --> 00:56:48,966 ...you will be a member of the United States Army. 436 00:56:51,135 --> 00:56:54,314 I hope you brought your toothbrushes. 437 00:56:58,061 --> 00:56:59,350 Gross. 438 00:57:00,198 --> 00:57:03,475 Now, on your applications... 439 00:57:04,022 --> 00:57:08,248 ...I want you to include any and all physical defects... 440 00:57:08,458 --> 00:57:10,327 ...you may have. 441 00:57:10,530 --> 00:57:14,835 I want you to include histories of operations... 442 00:57:15,046 --> 00:57:18,819 ...diseases or mental illness. 443 00:57:19,168 --> 00:57:22,675 Now from here, you will follow the yellow line. 444 00:57:22,848 --> 00:57:25,415 - Drop them. - And gentlemen... 445 00:57:25,636 --> 00:57:29,550 ...it does not lead to the land of Oz. 446 00:57:29,765 --> 00:57:32,760 Eyes front. Chest out. Look tall. 447 00:57:32,971 --> 00:57:38,020 - You. I said drop them, sweetheart. - Well, you don't have to be so abrupt. 448 00:57:38,234 --> 00:57:39,348 Bend over. 449 00:57:40,451 --> 00:57:44,392 There must be something I can do for the Army. 450 00:57:45,698 --> 00:57:49,701 I understand every combat group has three men in support. 451 00:57:49,916 --> 00:57:54,469 - Have you got any mobility like this? - A little, sir. 452 00:57:55,050 --> 00:57:57,583 Whats this deformation on the bone? 453 00:57:57,798 --> 00:58:01,587 Its been there since birth. Its part of the problem. 454 00:58:05,391 --> 00:58:07,215 How long have you worn this? 455 00:58:18,576 --> 00:58:23,243 - It says here you're a homosexual. - I won't agree to anything. 456 00:58:23,412 --> 00:58:26,362 Are you a homosexual? 457 00:58:26,538 --> 00:58:29,911 I guess I am. I wrote it down. Yes! 458 00:58:30,089 --> 00:58:32,757 You're gonna love it in the Army. 459 00:58:32,966 --> 00:58:34,747 There's lots of men... 460 00:58:34,958 --> 00:58:40,041 ...and they get real close in foxholes and tanks and in combat! 461 00:58:40,261 --> 00:58:42,810 Get him out! Process him in the Marines. 462 00:58:42,985 --> 00:58:45,464 If you send me to Vietnam, I'll just die! 463 00:59:17,052 --> 00:59:20,143 - Can I have a cigarette? - Go ahead. 464 00:59:20,354 --> 00:59:22,921 Come get it? 465 00:59:25,279 --> 00:59:28,690 Don't take my lighter. The general gave it to me. 466 00:59:48,716 --> 00:59:51,249 Can I have a cigarette? 467 00:59:52,251 --> 00:59:54,225 Come on. 468 00:59:59,731 --> 01:00:02,264 Don't take my lighter. 469 01:00:21,216 --> 01:00:26,035 Its the Jews, they're the ones! 470 01:00:26,205 --> 01:00:27,965 The niggers never liked me! 471 01:00:28,182 --> 01:00:30,502 The Jews and the niggers! 472 01:00:30,721 --> 01:00:34,044 I will not serve in this army! 473 01:00:38,394 --> 01:00:40,591 Heil Hitler! 474 01:00:44,693 --> 01:00:47,181 All right! 475 01:00:54,487 --> 01:00:58,117 Stand down here, please. Step down. 476 01:01:00,746 --> 01:01:03,925 Lets see you walk. Just take a step. 477 01:01:05,511 --> 01:01:07,831 Can you walk on it? 478 01:01:09,600 --> 01:01:12,763 Take a step. Can you walk on it? 479 01:01:14,598 --> 01:01:16,899 I can't make it! I can't! 480 01:01:17,113 --> 01:01:19,772 Orderly! 481 01:01:20,270 --> 01:01:23,404 Get him out of here. Follow the yellow line. 482 01:01:31,921 --> 01:01:34,534 I'd like one more cigarette. 483 01:01:35,665 --> 01:01:37,584 Go ahead. 484 01:01:49,219 --> 01:01:53,310 I see here they call you "Masochist." 485 01:01:54,104 --> 01:01:55,386 I like pain. 486 01:01:55,607 --> 01:01:58,156 Be specific, what kind of pain? 487 01:01:58,322 --> 01:02:01,103 Any kind of pain. 488 01:02:02,324 --> 01:02:05,663 Lets see. I like fights. 489 01:02:05,875 --> 01:02:08,984 I've dove through windows, eaten light bulbs. 490 01:02:09,201 --> 01:02:12,460 I like sharks, any kind of blood. 491 01:02:12,672 --> 01:02:15,419 If you gave me a gun, I'd shoot you... 492 01:02:15,589 --> 01:02:18,680 ...just to see what it looked like. - Would you? 493 01:02:18,891 --> 01:02:22,878 Did you have problems as a kid? Did your mama beat you? 494 01:02:23,093 --> 01:02:25,333 - Anybody like that? - Nope. 495 01:02:25,897 --> 01:02:28,296 - Did you have girlfriends? - No. 496 01:02:29,103 --> 01:02:30,217 Are you sure? 497 01:02:31,184 --> 01:02:34,859 - You picking on me? - Are you afraid to serve? 498 01:02:35,073 --> 01:02:38,598 - Why are you picking on me? - Do you have friends? 499 01:02:38,817 --> 01:02:44,160 - Why are you picking on me? - Shut up and sit down! Sit down! 500 01:02:48,089 --> 01:02:50,568 Get me an orderly! 501 01:02:50,788 --> 01:02:54,136 Apprehend him, you fools! 502 01:03:10,770 --> 01:03:13,854 Don't let them take me! I'm not crazy! 503 01:03:14,065 --> 01:03:16,526 Please don't let them take me! 504 01:03:19,568 --> 01:03:21,576 Who knows? Maybe he is cuckoo. 505 01:03:21,834 --> 01:03:24,502 He sure went from the frying pan to the fire. 506 01:03:34,456 --> 01:03:35,934 He's in for it now. 507 01:03:36,095 --> 01:03:40,418 - Anyone know what happened to Barlow? - Jack went in. 508 01:03:41,800 --> 01:03:45,261 He enlisted. Gung-ho. They got Waxer too. 509 01:03:45,480 --> 01:03:50,777 - What do you mean, Jack went in? - They didn 't believe Waxer, either. 510 01:03:50,943 --> 01:03:55,064 - They're putting him in the Marines. - Jack went in? 511 01:05:48,827 --> 01:05:53,444 New fires broke out in areas beyond the perimeter set up yesterday. 512 01:05:53,656 --> 01:05:56,790 Firemen wearing Marine Corps vests... 513 01:05:57,007 --> 01:06:02,047 - Those guys look like the Marines. - No. They're National Guardsmen. 514 01:06:02,799 --> 01:06:07,416 Speaking of Marines, I hear they got Waxer in Bear's old unit. 515 01:06:07,588 --> 01:06:09,596 First Marine division. 516 01:06:09,814 --> 01:06:14,838 - Bus burned by a Molotov cocktail after it had been turned over... 517 01:06:15,052 --> 01:06:16,980 ...by angry rioters. 518 01:06:17,189 --> 01:06:20,104 Police reinforcements began pouring... 519 01:06:20,275 --> 01:06:24,144 You don't have to go to Vietnam. We've got a war here. 520 01:06:25,658 --> 01:06:27,898 - Putting handcuffs on the man. 521 01:06:28,117 --> 01:06:30,578 Street sweeps began after dark. 522 01:06:30,792 --> 01:06:34,947 A strict curfew is being maintained throughout the area. 523 01:06:35,163 --> 01:06:40,123 Firemen are having a difficult time. They are a target. 524 01:06:40,297 --> 01:06:41,839 There are reports... 525 01:06:42,049 --> 01:06:46,682 - What time is it? - Its about 5. 526 01:06:49,513 --> 01:06:51,680 I haven't got much time left. 527 01:06:52,984 --> 01:06:55,979 I gotta go throw my paper route. 528 01:06:57,491 --> 01:07:00,689 Hey, come on, P.G. Lets go. 529 01:07:00,986 --> 01:07:04,909 - Lets go get Melissa. Come on! - I'll get my shoes. 530 01:07:06,667 --> 01:07:08,536 Come on, lets go. 531 01:07:23,636 --> 01:07:25,601 - Hey, Breathman. - Jack. 532 01:07:25,773 --> 01:07:29,839 - Hang in there. - Okay. Thanks for coming. 533 01:07:30,682 --> 01:07:33,018 So long, Terry. 534 01:07:39,247 --> 01:07:41,444 Come back to us, Jack. 535 01:07:50,455 --> 01:07:52,527 Love you, buddy. 536 01:07:56,843 --> 01:08:00,846 - Say hi to Waxer if you see him. - I'll do that. 537 01:08:05,930 --> 01:08:08,605 Stay casual, Barlow. 538 01:08:10,437 --> 01:08:13,819 - Take care. - Bye-bye. Okay. 539 01:08:15,571 --> 01:08:17,395 Take it easy, Jack. 540 01:08:17,572 --> 01:08:21,247 - Don't get your ass shot off. - I'll try not to. 541 01:08:21,461 --> 01:08:23,612 Be good. 542 01:08:42,150 --> 01:08:43,557 Peggy. 543 01:08:44,400 --> 01:08:47,147 Take care of that guy, okay? 544 01:08:47,975 --> 01:08:50,445 Take care of Melissa. 545 01:08:54,065 --> 01:08:56,489 I believe I have your chapeau. 546 01:08:56,709 --> 01:09:00,989 You know I'm not sentimental, but you're going so far away... 547 01:09:01,200 --> 01:09:03,119 ...I really feel funny. 548 01:09:11,428 --> 01:09:15,087 - Be good to yourself. - All right. See you later. 549 01:09:20,933 --> 01:09:23,005 Bye, old buddy. 550 01:09:25,440 --> 01:09:27,894 Its been a hell of a party. 551 01:09:29,024 --> 01:09:31,742 You take care of these people. 552 01:09:52,517 --> 01:09:57,257 - Shooting can 't be pinned down. Some say its diversionary. 553 01:09:58,182 --> 01:10:01,600 - They say they hear shots... - Sally? 554 01:10:01,813 --> 01:10:05,602 ...in the distance. The shooting inhibits the fighting. 555 01:10:05,822 --> 01:10:07,532 Sally? 556 01:10:17,844 --> 01:10:22,309 The north swell was cold and lonely and dangerous. 557 01:10:23,147 --> 01:10:27,700 It was a powerful swell that marched down the coast in the winter. 558 01:10:27,912 --> 01:10:32,722 We used to ditch school, go down to the Point and watch it break. 559 01:10:41,386 --> 01:10:44,743 There were light breezes and low-tide afternoons. 560 01:10:44,961 --> 01:10:48,716 I remember the rocks and the clear, cold water. 561 01:10:49,517 --> 01:10:52,050 But now it all seemed to be behind us. 562 01:10:52,265 --> 01:10:56,393 The change wasn 't in the beach or the rocks or the waves. 563 01:10:56,563 --> 01:10:58,353 It was in the people. 564 01:10:58,564 --> 01:11:01,361 Some got married, some moved inland... 565 01:11:01,577 --> 01:11:04,190 ...some searched for a new spot... 566 01:11:04,405 --> 01:11:06,556 ...some died. 567 01:11:51,335 --> 01:11:54,692 Waxer was one of my best friends. I'm sorry. 568 01:11:54,910 --> 01:11:56,574 Did you know Jim? 569 01:11:56,807 --> 01:11:59,466 We were friends from the beach. 570 01:13:22,182 --> 01:13:24,254 Hi, honey. 571 01:13:25,059 --> 01:13:27,360 Some more bills. 572 01:13:34,700 --> 01:13:38,439 Of all Waxer's friends, I was the only one that showed up. 573 01:13:40,823 --> 01:13:42,911 It shoulïve meant something. 574 01:13:44,752 --> 01:13:47,906 Guess what I saw on my lunch hour today? 575 01:13:48,423 --> 01:13:51,541 A beach house. We could move in right away. 576 01:13:51,758 --> 01:13:54,956 - I don't want to stretch it. - We can afford it. 577 01:13:55,189 --> 01:13:57,927 We're making twice as much as last year. 578 01:13:58,137 --> 01:14:02,556 - You folks ready to order? - A couple cheeseburgers and two Cokes. 579 01:14:02,773 --> 01:14:06,760 - We're off that trip, man. - What do you mean? 580 01:14:06,935 --> 01:14:10,194 We don't serve animal hostilities. Dead flesh. 581 01:14:10,406 --> 01:14:12,443 Just get us two Cokes, huh? 582 01:14:12,656 --> 01:14:15,517 Well, its bad karma, brother. 583 01:14:18,457 --> 01:14:21,780 I'm not your brother. Turn down that crappy music! 584 01:14:21,992 --> 01:14:24,293 Peace, brother. 585 01:14:42,601 --> 01:14:45,974 - Look at that. - You don't like incense, huh? 586 01:14:46,192 --> 01:14:48,814 Here's your Cokes, brother. 587 01:14:55,866 --> 01:14:57,139 "Dear Matt: 588 01:14:57,320 --> 01:15:01,625 You are invited to a premiere of my new surfing movie... 589 01:15:01,836 --> 01:15:04,449 ...Liquid Dreams." 590 01:15:05,307 --> 01:15:07,920 Liquid Dreams? 591 01:15:08,553 --> 01:15:13,761 "We feature a sequence on old-timers, and there's good footage of you. 592 01:15:15,141 --> 01:15:17,674 I remember you as a hot-dogger... 593 01:15:17,889 --> 01:15:20,980 ...and will be looking forward to seeing you. 594 01:15:21,191 --> 01:15:25,392 Sincerely yours, Jeff Freeman." 595 01:15:26,205 --> 01:15:29,032 Thats just like old times. 596 01:15:29,660 --> 01:15:32,537 Isn't that something? They remember me. 597 01:15:32,713 --> 01:15:34,864 Of course they remembered you. 598 01:15:38,658 --> 01:15:41,241 What do you think I should wear? 599 01:15:42,258 --> 01:15:45,581 You actually want to go to that thing? 600 01:15:47,930 --> 01:15:49,720 Ah, come on. 601 01:15:51,056 --> 01:15:54,147 Melissa would be so proud. 602 01:15:56,897 --> 01:15:59,342 Yeah, she probably would. 603 01:16:08,210 --> 01:16:12,613 Gerry Lopez thunders down another Pipeline bone-crusher. 604 01:16:14,967 --> 01:16:18,458 Pipeline is one of the world's most dangerous locations. 605 01:16:18,671 --> 01:16:22,258 Lopez has nearly been killed there several times... 606 01:16:22,431 --> 01:16:25,585 ...but continues in pushing his limits. 607 01:16:26,504 --> 01:16:28,264 That guy is hot! 608 01:16:31,598 --> 01:16:37,277 After the north shore season, Gerry and I flew to California to the Point. 609 01:16:37,488 --> 01:16:40,890 The Point has always been a training ground. 610 01:16:41,103 --> 01:16:43,607 Its where hot-dogging was innovated... 611 01:16:43,827 --> 01:16:47,655 ...by Matt Johnson, Jack Barlow and Leroy Smith. 612 01:16:47,860 --> 01:16:51,951 They were pioneers, the first to develop the modern style. 613 01:16:52,127 --> 01:16:54,786 We bring you now the great Matt Johnson. 614 01:16:56,040 --> 01:16:59,413 Is that you, Daddy, is that you? 615 01:17:02,837 --> 01:17:05,004 Matt was famous for his style. 616 01:17:05,183 --> 01:17:09,472 He made walking the board look as easy as walking down the street. 617 01:17:09,674 --> 01:17:12,808 - Don't fall! - And now, back to the present. 618 01:17:12,985 --> 01:17:16,590 Gerry Lopez tries his luck at the Point. 619 01:17:19,364 --> 01:17:22,234 Lopez is known at the Pipeline... 620 01:17:22,441 --> 01:17:27,827 ...but is versatile enough to blaze across the waves at the Point. 621 01:18:24,975 --> 01:18:27,558 Uncle Jack! 622 01:18:28,197 --> 01:18:29,898 How are you, sweetness? 623 01:18:30,527 --> 01:18:32,564 Boy, have you grown up! 624 01:18:48,259 --> 01:18:50,296 Give me a kiss. 625 01:18:50,838 --> 01:18:53,246 Welcome home! 626 01:19:52,616 --> 01:19:55,982 Good swell. How big are the sets? 627 01:19:56,200 --> 01:19:59,122 Four, five. Better at low tide. 628 01:20:09,007 --> 01:20:10,999 God darn it. 629 01:20:11,184 --> 01:20:14,302 How long's it been? Three years? 630 01:20:17,676 --> 01:20:19,932 Hear about Leroy? 631 01:20:20,729 --> 01:20:24,884 - Whats that guy doing? - He's been riding 25-foot pipeline. 632 01:20:25,116 --> 01:20:28,944 - He's still an animal. - Figures he'd be the one to do it. 633 01:20:29,158 --> 01:20:33,161 - You'd have been proud. - Been surfing a lot? 634 01:20:35,706 --> 01:20:38,533 No, just when its necessary. 635 01:20:38,703 --> 01:20:41,039 Lets go ride some waves. 636 01:21:18,418 --> 01:21:21,261 Jack Barlow, reincarnated! 637 01:21:21,431 --> 01:21:23,919 Glad you're still kicking. 638 01:21:24,090 --> 01:21:27,854 - Back from the dead, man, huh? - Yeah. 639 01:21:29,691 --> 01:21:33,757 - What happened to your eye? - I went drinking with Bear. 640 01:21:33,973 --> 01:21:36,904 As usual, I got clobbered. 641 01:21:37,364 --> 01:21:41,430 - How is Bear? - All screwed up. Lost everything. 642 01:21:41,622 --> 01:21:44,617 His wife left him. He drank up his money. 643 01:21:44,828 --> 01:21:46,865 He's a goner, man. 644 01:21:47,118 --> 01:21:50,873 I thought about Bear a lot while I was over there. 645 01:21:52,830 --> 01:21:55,150 So, what have you been up to? 646 01:21:55,369 --> 01:21:58,132 I'm the candyman, Jack. 647 01:21:58,631 --> 01:22:01,412 I sell contraband to the children. 648 01:22:02,046 --> 01:22:03,515 Pharmaceuticals. 649 01:22:04,641 --> 01:22:09,442 Which way do you want to go? Up? Down? Sideways? 650 01:22:10,024 --> 01:22:12,894 Lysergic acid, man. 651 01:22:13,150 --> 01:22:15,595 I'm making a fortune. Kids eat it up. 652 01:22:15,978 --> 01:22:17,615 Drug degenerate. 653 01:22:22,815 --> 01:22:24,293 Get some waves. 654 01:22:55,693 --> 01:22:57,517 Seen Sally yet? 655 01:22:57,694 --> 01:23:01,315 No. I came right here. 656 01:23:26,779 --> 01:23:31,228 - I'm looking for Sally Jacobson. - Sally's my wife. What do you want? 657 01:23:38,992 --> 01:23:41,284 I know you. Jack. 658 01:23:42,374 --> 01:23:45,572 Look, maybe now is not the right time. 659 01:23:46,416 --> 01:23:48,301 You should have called. 660 01:23:51,003 --> 01:23:54,385 I'd really like to see her, if you don't mind. 661 01:23:55,141 --> 01:23:57,922 I'll tell her you were by, okay? 662 01:24:08,117 --> 01:24:10,785 Hey, Waxer! Where are you? 663 01:24:10,945 --> 01:24:13,613 Leroy's come from the Islands to see you. 664 01:24:14,071 --> 01:24:17,780 Okay, its up to you. Where is he? 665 01:24:17,951 --> 01:24:20,573 This is the place. I know it. 666 01:24:20,788 --> 01:24:23,993 I've been here. I know this is the spot. 667 01:24:26,629 --> 01:24:31,376 - Hey, I like that. - Thanks. I learned it in the Islands. 668 01:24:34,053 --> 01:24:36,300 Here, have some wine. 669 01:24:36,857 --> 01:24:39,008 Waxer always liked wine. 670 01:24:39,356 --> 01:24:42,217 There wasn't one of us he couldn't... 671 01:24:42,433 --> 01:24:45,276 ...drink under the table. He could drink! 672 01:24:45,486 --> 01:24:47,974 Because he didn't have any brains. 673 01:24:48,194 --> 01:24:50,777 He was the most radical guy I knew. 674 01:24:50,998 --> 01:24:54,817 Remember when we were with those chicks from Laguna... 675 01:24:54,991 --> 01:24:57,495 ...and we stopped off for doughnuts? 676 01:24:57,875 --> 01:25:00,283 You remember what he did? 677 01:25:02,544 --> 01:25:05,589 We got the doughnuts and then Waxer... 678 01:25:05,806 --> 01:25:10,423 ...he's up on the hood, he's stark naked... 679 01:25:10,642 --> 01:25:14,549 ...with his arms out, posing like a hood ornament! 680 01:25:14,764 --> 01:25:18,271 - I was driving. - You got in and drove around. 681 01:25:18,484 --> 01:25:21,399 The chicks were yelling and screaming! 682 01:25:21,610 --> 01:25:24,009 Whoa! You forgot one thing. 683 01:25:24,189 --> 01:25:27,650 He had a glazed doughnut around his little bitty thing. 684 01:25:29,443 --> 01:25:31,833 Waxer was hanging one. 685 01:25:35,244 --> 01:25:39,797 - That was in your '40... - It was the Belch Fire One. 686 01:25:40,009 --> 01:25:41,664 A Dodge. 687 01:25:54,977 --> 01:25:58,511 I never thought Waxer'd end up in a boneyard. 688 01:25:59,742 --> 01:26:03,065 I wonder if he was scared when he died. 689 01:26:06,419 --> 01:26:08,739 How about you, Jack? 690 01:26:09,825 --> 01:26:11,985 Were you scared over there? 691 01:26:15,337 --> 01:26:16,576 Yes, I was. 692 01:26:29,358 --> 01:26:32,051 Lets get on with what we came to do. 693 01:26:35,448 --> 01:26:39,931 We're gathered here to say a few words about our friend Jim King. 694 01:26:41,827 --> 01:26:44,315 We called him Waxer. 695 01:26:46,278 --> 01:26:48,962 I'd just like to say that... 696 01:26:49,998 --> 01:26:52,948 ...he was a good surfer... 697 01:26:54,080 --> 01:26:55,965 ...and a really great guy. 698 01:26:57,342 --> 01:27:01,417 He had a nice cutback. He rode the nose real well. 699 01:27:04,099 --> 01:27:07,961 He was kind of screwed up, how he treated women... 700 01:27:08,141 --> 01:27:10,354 ...but he always got one. 701 01:27:10,567 --> 01:27:15,352 It doesn't matter. He was just a good guy all the way around. 702 01:27:23,165 --> 01:27:25,698 He'd always give people waves. 703 01:27:25,913 --> 01:27:28,278 Just give them a wave. 704 01:27:35,627 --> 01:27:38,345 He'd stick up for friends in a fight. 705 01:27:38,511 --> 01:27:42,755 He wasn't worth a damn, but he was always right in there. 706 01:27:48,016 --> 01:27:53,615 I don't ever remember a day Waxer wouldn't ride with his friends. 707 01:27:58,453 --> 01:28:01,323 Old Waxer was our friend. 708 01:28:02,495 --> 01:28:05,292 He was a little part of us. 709 01:28:10,875 --> 01:28:13,211 And we're gonna miss him. 710 01:28:28,189 --> 01:28:30,563 Leroy, get up! 711 01:28:49,803 --> 01:28:51,786 - Amen. - Amen. 712 01:28:53,089 --> 01:28:54,929 Amen. 713 01:28:55,893 --> 01:28:57,087 Lets go. 714 01:29:05,109 --> 01:29:06,428 Thank you. 715 01:29:09,198 --> 01:29:10,437 All right. 716 01:29:27,252 --> 01:29:31,591 - I can't stay with you anymore. - Where are you going? 717 01:29:32,466 --> 01:29:34,335 I don't know. 718 01:29:34,547 --> 01:29:36,803 Its time I moved inland. 719 01:29:37,022 --> 01:29:40,185 Get a job, pay taxes... 720 01:29:40,477 --> 01:29:42,813 ...the whole damn thing. 721 01:29:47,901 --> 01:29:53,030 If any of you guys need a place to crash, you know where to find me. 722 01:29:55,823 --> 01:29:57,742 Are you going back up north? 723 01:29:57,960 --> 01:30:00,707 - Yeah. - Its cold. 724 01:30:00,917 --> 01:30:05,008 I hear there's waves up there no man's ever seen. 725 01:30:31,585 --> 01:30:34,535 Who knows where the wind comes from? 726 01:30:34,751 --> 01:30:37,364 Is it the breath of God? 727 01:30:37,539 --> 01:30:40,878 Who knows what really makes the clouds? 728 01:31:10,706 --> 01:31:15,418 Where do the great swells come from? And for what? 729 01:31:16,458 --> 01:31:18,832 Only that now it was time... 730 01:31:19,046 --> 01:31:21,843 ...and we had waited so long. 731 01:31:59,339 --> 01:32:02,102 - I don't believe it! - Mrs. Barlow. 732 01:32:02,312 --> 01:32:06,378 I thought you could help me find out where Jack is. 733 01:32:06,594 --> 01:32:10,899 I really don't know where he is. He's moved around a lot. 734 01:32:11,110 --> 01:32:15,440 He's in the tower five days a week. Call Ranger headquarters. 735 01:32:15,657 --> 01:32:18,325 I tried. They weren't any help. 736 01:32:19,948 --> 01:32:22,914 - Are you still with Peggy? - Yeah. 737 01:32:23,668 --> 01:32:25,819 We got married. 738 01:32:27,034 --> 01:32:29,071 She's a great gal. 739 01:32:29,300 --> 01:32:31,540 How's Melissa? 740 01:32:31,919 --> 01:32:34,293 Growing up real fast. 741 01:32:35,005 --> 01:32:37,680 I remember when you were growing up. 742 01:32:37,849 --> 01:32:41,215 It seems like such a short time to be kids. 743 01:32:41,424 --> 01:32:44,885 Was it important, your wanting to see Jack? 744 01:32:45,104 --> 01:32:46,928 There's a big swell. 745 01:32:47,772 --> 01:32:50,481 Its the best one I can remember. 746 01:32:50,696 --> 01:32:54,062 Bear said I ought to try and find everybody. 747 01:32:54,280 --> 01:32:58,699 - How's Leroy? - I haven't seen him in three years. 748 01:32:58,916 --> 01:33:01,067 He's up north someplace. 749 01:33:01,286 --> 01:33:03,853 I'd like to straighten something out. 750 01:33:04,050 --> 01:33:05,919 Whats that, Matt? 751 01:33:06,838 --> 01:33:09,913 I did things here I'm ashamed of. 752 01:33:10,124 --> 01:33:14,181 - I tore up your lawn with my '40 Ford. - Many times. 753 01:33:15,218 --> 01:33:17,751 I took my pants off in front of you. 754 01:33:17,982 --> 01:33:20,222 I even passed out in your closet. 755 01:33:20,432 --> 01:33:23,932 But I never, I don't know who could have... 756 01:33:24,136 --> 01:33:28,059 ...but I never, ever pissed in your steam iron. 757 01:33:28,274 --> 01:33:31,303 Oh, dear heavens! 758 01:34:34,937 --> 01:34:37,559 Matt, you showed up! 759 01:34:37,814 --> 01:34:40,809 - You're drunk. - Yeah, well, so what? 760 01:34:48,998 --> 01:34:52,771 Oh, Matt, its a great swell. 761 01:34:53,160 --> 01:34:57,038 Its gonna be like nothing anybody has ever seen. 762 01:34:57,756 --> 01:34:59,828 How long have you been here? 763 01:35:00,046 --> 01:35:03,339 Are Jack and Leroy gonna be here tomorrow? 764 01:35:03,886 --> 01:35:05,878 - Did you call them? - I called. 765 01:35:11,519 --> 01:35:16,479 Look right over there. Look over there behind those pilings. 766 01:35:21,353 --> 01:35:23,857 I brought her to you. 767 01:35:25,322 --> 01:35:27,944 She's yours now. 768 01:35:39,054 --> 01:35:42,827 All these years, there were few things that mattered. 769 01:35:43,714 --> 01:35:45,511 But what mattered most... 770 01:35:45,682 --> 01:35:49,262 ...was knowing how you three felt about me. 771 01:35:49,475 --> 01:35:51,936 That you respected me... 772 01:35:52,150 --> 01:35:55,473 ...and that you felt I had given you something. 773 01:36:17,628 --> 01:36:19,434 Lets go home, Bear. 774 01:36:20,432 --> 01:36:25,927 Peggy's got warm food and Melissa'd like to see you. Lets go home. 775 01:36:26,104 --> 01:36:29,188 No, no. 776 01:36:35,111 --> 01:36:37,981 They're not gonna be here tomorrow. 777 01:36:38,188 --> 01:36:40,612 I never got ahold of them. 778 01:36:40,792 --> 01:36:44,611 They're all gone. Its just me and you, nobody else. 779 01:36:45,323 --> 01:36:48,120 Its all gone. There's nothing left. 780 01:36:48,296 --> 01:36:53,115 - Come on. Lets go home. - No, Matt, don't. 781 01:36:54,515 --> 01:36:58,547 Lets go home and get warm, come back tomorrow. 782 01:36:59,593 --> 01:37:02,966 Leave me alone. Go on! Leave me alone. 783 01:37:09,692 --> 01:37:12,305 Take it and get out! 784 01:38:15,552 --> 01:38:17,888 Where are you going so early? 785 01:38:19,561 --> 01:38:21,960 A good swell. 786 01:38:22,309 --> 01:38:24,724 I just thought I'd go surfing. 787 01:38:25,949 --> 01:38:28,146 Be careful. 788 01:38:43,834 --> 01:38:47,589 These kids are gonna go out no matter how big it is. 789 01:38:47,763 --> 01:38:51,288 I've never seen it pump in like this before. 790 01:38:51,507 --> 01:38:53,888 All right, we'll see you later. 791 01:40:00,998 --> 01:40:05,833 You people there. Move on back, out of the road. Clear the road. 792 01:40:06,012 --> 01:40:08,084 Now move back. 793 01:40:08,302 --> 01:40:11,347 We request you stay off the beach road. 794 01:40:11,564 --> 01:40:15,337 Keep the road cleared for emergency vehicles. 795 01:40:16,529 --> 01:40:20,188 All swimmers and surfers get out of the water... 796 01:40:20,362 --> 01:40:24,197 ...and off the beach for your own safety. 797 01:40:26,243 --> 01:40:30,380 - Hey, thats Lopez! - Whoa! Lets go over. 798 01:40:33,707 --> 01:40:36,886 All surfers out of the water! 799 01:40:37,049 --> 01:40:40,877 We have extremely hazardous conditions! 800 01:40:41,091 --> 01:40:44,712 Get out of the water! You are in a riptide! 801 01:40:44,891 --> 01:40:49,046 - All surfers out of the water! - There's Lopez! Come on! 802 01:40:49,222 --> 01:40:51,683 You're in a riptide! 803 01:41:02,158 --> 01:41:04,141 Get 'em, Gerry! 804 01:41:56,134 --> 01:41:57,878 Good swell. 805 01:41:58,095 --> 01:42:00,476 Its a boss swell. 806 01:42:01,646 --> 01:42:03,966 Bear called it. 807 01:42:49,363 --> 01:42:52,358 Its outrageous! Jesus, its outrageous! 808 01:42:52,569 --> 01:42:56,110 - Thats the lemon next to the pie. - What? 809 01:42:56,329 --> 01:42:59,367 Thats the lemon next to the pie. 810 01:42:59,535 --> 01:43:03,210 Thats nothing. Its gonna get bigger. 811 01:43:07,915 --> 01:43:11,217 It came up this morning, just started pumping. 812 01:43:11,386 --> 01:43:13,874 Its gotta be 10 feet. 813 01:43:14,930 --> 01:43:18,100 Must be more now. Must be more like 15. 814 01:52:58,122 --> 01:53:00,025 These dudes are crazy! 815 01:53:32,285 --> 01:53:33,781 Matt! 816 01:54:15,584 --> 01:54:17,781 Aren't you Matt Johnson? 817 01:54:19,922 --> 01:54:22,242 This belongs to you. 818 01:54:28,262 --> 01:54:31,098 That was the hottest ride I've ever seen. 819 01:54:32,095 --> 01:54:34,476 I just wanted to tell you that. 820 01:54:52,993 --> 01:54:55,046 Keep it. 821 01:54:58,665 --> 01:55:02,013 If it ever gets big again, you can ride it. 822 01:55:16,366 --> 01:55:20,646 - Do you surf, man? Are you a surfer? - Oh, no. 823 01:55:20,857 --> 01:55:25,738 Not me. I'm just a garbage man. 824 01:55:25,951 --> 01:55:27,820 See you around. 825 01:55:42,438 --> 01:55:43,891 Lopez. 826 01:55:44,061 --> 01:55:46,549 He's as good as they always said. 827 01:55:46,769 --> 01:55:49,184 So were we. 828 01:55:53,148 --> 01:55:55,433 We drew the line, huh? 829 01:55:57,077 --> 01:55:59,610 You sure you can drive home like that? 830 01:56:03,585 --> 01:56:06,412 Yeah, Peggy will take care of it. 831 01:56:13,050 --> 01:56:15,583 You guys keep in touch, huh? 832 01:56:16,770 --> 01:56:18,425 You too, old man. 833 01:56:21,719 --> 01:56:24,730 - Barlow, catch you later. - Leroy. 834 01:56:27,271 --> 01:56:29,140 Take care.