1
00:00:01,266 --> 00:00:05,542
{\an8}♪♪
2
00:00:05,566 --> 00:00:09,376
[ Wind whistling ]
3
00:00:09,400 --> 00:00:14,876
{\an1}SCOTT: The Arctic has always
been the toughest test,
4
00:00:14,900 --> 00:00:18,342
no more so than
in the far corner of Alaska
5
00:00:18,366 --> 00:00:22,276
{\an1}called the Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge.
6
00:00:22,300 --> 00:00:25,500
Thousands
of caribou face the cold...
7
00:00:27,266 --> 00:00:30,042
the terrain...
8
00:00:30,066 --> 00:00:35,109
{\an1}and formidable predators
to reach one special place
9
00:00:35,133 --> 00:00:37,176
{\an1}at just the right time...
10
00:00:37,200 --> 00:00:41,533
{\an1}a vast, beautiful plain
on the edge of the Arctic Ocean.
11
00:00:43,966 --> 00:00:46,200
{\an1}Here, they give birth.
12
00:00:49,166 --> 00:00:52,609
{\an1}This is the story of the last
great land migration
13
00:00:52,633 --> 00:00:54,266
in North America.
14
00:00:56,466 --> 00:01:01,742
{\an1}And of how every Arctic creature
is now on a daunting journey
15
00:01:01,766 --> 00:01:05,909
from a timeless past
into a vastly different future.
16
00:01:05,933 --> 00:01:13,933
{\an8}♪♪
17
00:01:47,200 --> 00:01:53,209
{\an8}♪♪
18
00:01:53,233 --> 00:01:55,209
SCOTT: On the top
of the world,
19
00:01:55,233 --> 00:01:57,876
{\an1}it is still the ice age.
20
00:01:57,900 --> 00:02:05,900
{\an8}♪♪
21
00:02:10,166 --> 00:02:13,276
{\an1}It's northern Alaska in winter.
22
00:02:13,300 --> 00:02:15,709
The temperature drops
to 50 below.
23
00:02:15,733 --> 00:02:23,733
{\an8}♪♪
24
00:02:27,200 --> 00:02:30,742
{\an7}Frozen rivers curl north
from the Brooks Range
25
00:02:30,766 --> 00:02:33,976
and down to a plain
stretching to the Beaufort Sea
26
00:02:34,000 --> 00:02:37,109
and the Arctic Ocean,
now locked in ice.
27
00:02:37,133 --> 00:02:40,709
[ Wind whistling ]
28
00:02:40,733 --> 00:02:43,342
{\an1}This vast stretch of white
mountains,
29
00:02:43,366 --> 00:02:45,476
{\an1}tundra, and icy rivers,
30
00:02:45,500 --> 00:02:48,942
{\an1}forms one of the world's
most important wildernesses...
31
00:02:48,966 --> 00:02:52,609
The Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge.
32
00:02:52,633 --> 00:02:56,033
{\an1}It's a home for courageous
creatures from another time.
33
00:03:00,300 --> 00:03:03,209
{\an1}This wildlife community
will face a year
34
00:03:03,233 --> 00:03:04,966
{\an1}of difficult decisions.
35
00:03:08,200 --> 00:03:12,742
{\an1}Hundreds of miles southeast,
bravest of all perhaps,
36
00:03:12,766 --> 00:03:16,242
{\an1}is a pregnant caribou.
37
00:03:16,266 --> 00:03:19,209
She's part of
the Porcupine caribou herd
38
00:03:19,233 --> 00:03:22,442
{\an1}and will undertake the longest
annual land migration
39
00:03:22,466 --> 00:03:24,509
on the planet.
40
00:03:24,533 --> 00:03:28,176
{\an1}In her lifetime, she's likely
to walk the same distance
41
00:03:28,200 --> 00:03:32,276
as a complete circuit
of the globe.
42
00:03:32,300 --> 00:03:35,376
{\an1}It's December, and the caribou
are waiting,
43
00:03:35,400 --> 00:03:38,109
{\an1}eating lichen in the twilight.
44
00:03:38,133 --> 00:03:42,476
{\an1}The journey ahead needs
precise timing.
45
00:03:42,500 --> 00:03:44,676
{\an1}She'll march through forests,
46
00:03:44,700 --> 00:03:46,942
{\an1}over mountains, across rivers,
47
00:03:46,966 --> 00:03:48,609
to the coastal plain.
48
00:03:48,633 --> 00:03:52,476
{\an8}It's a round trip
of almost a thousand miles.
49
00:03:52,500 --> 00:03:56,309
{\an8}♪♪
50
00:03:56,333 --> 00:03:58,942
{\an8}Some 160,000 caribou
51
00:03:58,966 --> 00:04:00,909
{\an8}will walk from their
wintering grounds
52
00:04:00,933 --> 00:04:03,709
{\an8}in the Yukon
and Northwest Territories
53
00:04:03,733 --> 00:04:07,233
{\an7}to their calving grounds
in the Wildlife Refuge.
54
00:04:09,233 --> 00:04:11,542
{\an8}♪♪
55
00:04:11,566 --> 00:04:14,109
The Brooks Range
stands in their way,
56
00:04:14,133 --> 00:04:17,742
{\an1}running parallel to the coast.
57
00:04:17,766 --> 00:04:21,409
{\an1}The sun sets for the last time
until the New Year.
58
00:04:21,433 --> 00:04:29,433
{\an8}♪♪
59
00:04:32,400 --> 00:04:35,976
{\an1}The only sunlight is reflected
by a wintry moon.
60
00:04:36,000 --> 00:04:44,000
{\an8}♪♪
61
00:04:44,500 --> 00:04:46,409
{\an1}Hundreds of miles above,
62
00:04:46,433 --> 00:04:50,076
solar radiation fires
up the ionosphere,
63
00:04:50,100 --> 00:04:51,709
{\an1}and the ghostly aurora.
64
00:04:51,733 --> 00:04:59,733
{\an8}♪♪
65
00:05:07,400 --> 00:05:09,676
This is a world
of huge planetary
66
00:05:09,700 --> 00:05:13,142
{\an1}forces in constant flux.
67
00:05:13,166 --> 00:05:17,742
{\an1}This is nature at its most
spectacular and extreme.
68
00:05:17,766 --> 00:05:24,742
{\an8}♪♪
69
00:05:24,766 --> 00:05:29,276
[ Wolf howls ]
70
00:05:29,300 --> 00:05:33,476
{\an1}A dawn twilight returns
in January.
71
00:05:33,500 --> 00:05:41,500
{\an8}♪♪
72
00:05:41,800 --> 00:05:44,642
{\an1}Blizzards blast the tundra.
73
00:05:44,666 --> 00:05:49,076
{\an1}Most animals have left or are
hibernating under the deep snow,
74
00:05:49,100 --> 00:05:50,842
but musk ox remain.
75
00:05:50,866 --> 00:05:53,042
[ Growling ]
76
00:05:53,066 --> 00:05:56,742
[ Wind whistling ]
77
00:05:56,766 --> 00:06:01,042
{\an1}They are loyal to a home range
and won't leave.
78
00:06:01,066 --> 00:06:03,276
{\an1}They rarely visit the valley.
79
00:06:03,300 --> 00:06:04,909
The snow is too deep,
80
00:06:04,933 --> 00:06:08,176
{\an1}and they can't dig out
the frozen grass.
81
00:06:08,200 --> 00:06:11,033
{\an1}Even up here, it's hard work.
82
00:06:16,566 --> 00:06:20,176
Winters seem to be
more erratic recently,
83
00:06:20,200 --> 00:06:22,576
on average more
than eight degrees warmer
84
00:06:22,600 --> 00:06:26,342
than 50 years ago,
which sounds better,
85
00:06:26,366 --> 00:06:30,266
{\an1}but now there's freezing rain
on top of heavier snowfall.
86
00:06:33,433 --> 00:06:35,942
{\an1}The caribou are becoming
restless.
87
00:06:35,966 --> 00:06:41,442
{\an8}♪♪
88
00:06:41,466 --> 00:06:45,409
{\an1}Her belly is beginning to swell
with her unborn calf.
89
00:06:45,433 --> 00:06:50,842
{\an8}♪♪
90
00:06:50,866 --> 00:06:55,942
{\an1}She's searching for reindeer
lichen, her winter food.
91
00:06:55,966 --> 00:06:59,142
She's a reindeer
as much as a caribou.
92
00:06:59,166 --> 00:07:01,276
{\an1}They are the same species.
93
00:07:01,300 --> 00:07:06,676
{\an8}♪♪
94
00:07:06,700 --> 00:07:10,876
She digs through snow
like the musk ox.
95
00:07:10,900 --> 00:07:12,542
{\an1}For a prospective mother,
96
00:07:12,566 --> 00:07:16,376
finding enough food
is her principal focus.
97
00:07:16,400 --> 00:07:18,576
{\an1}But it's not her only worry.
98
00:07:18,600 --> 00:07:26,600
{\an8}♪♪
99
00:07:29,833 --> 00:07:32,142
It's a lone wolf.
100
00:07:32,166 --> 00:07:40,166
{\an8}♪♪
101
00:07:44,733 --> 00:07:48,276
{\an1}The caribou's instinct
is to stay on the move.
102
00:07:48,300 --> 00:07:51,076
{\an1}Somewhere has to be better
than this.
103
00:07:51,100 --> 00:07:56,776
{\an8}♪♪
104
00:07:56,800 --> 00:08:00,109
But migration is not
blind instinct.
105
00:08:00,133 --> 00:08:04,076
{\an1}It's a series of collective
decisions based on subtle clues
106
00:08:04,100 --> 00:08:07,876
to weather patterns
and journey times.
107
00:08:07,900 --> 00:08:10,066
{\an1}Every year is different.
108
00:08:13,033 --> 00:08:15,709
The wolf has choices
to make, too.
109
00:08:15,733 --> 00:08:19,276
{\an1}He can follow the caribou,
but they move fast,
110
00:08:19,300 --> 00:08:21,500
{\an1}and the journey is too far.
111
00:08:27,133 --> 00:08:30,009
{\an1}The first birth of spring.
112
00:08:30,033 --> 00:08:31,542
It's not a caribou,
113
00:08:31,566 --> 00:08:35,842
{\an1}but a newborn musk ox,
a 30-pound baby,
114
00:08:35,866 --> 00:08:39,809
delivered straight
onto the snow.
115
00:08:39,833 --> 00:08:42,009
{\an1}The family surrounds her,
116
00:08:42,033 --> 00:08:45,466
{\an1}a protection from dangers
outside their circle.
117
00:08:57,600 --> 00:09:02,642
But within hours,
the calf wants out.
118
00:09:02,666 --> 00:09:05,366
{\an1}There's a beautiful new world
to explore.
119
00:09:13,466 --> 00:09:16,309
{\an1}Every calf is precious.
120
00:09:16,333 --> 00:09:19,209
Musk ox were hunted
to extinction in Alaska
121
00:09:19,233 --> 00:09:21,009
in the 1860s,
122
00:09:21,033 --> 00:09:24,842
but were brought back
in the 1930s.
123
00:09:24,866 --> 00:09:28,166
{\an1}There are now a few thousand
here in Alaska.
124
00:09:32,900 --> 00:09:36,533
{\an1}A little river gully is a new
adventure for the calf.
125
00:09:42,000 --> 00:09:46,809
{\an1}Once in, getting back out
is harder.
126
00:09:46,833 --> 00:09:54,833
{\an8}♪♪
127
00:09:58,700 --> 00:10:00,509
{\an1}The mother won't follow.
128
00:10:00,533 --> 00:10:02,876
She doesn't know
how deep the snow is
129
00:10:02,900 --> 00:10:04,766
{\an1}and could easily get stuck.
130
00:10:08,700 --> 00:10:11,542
{\an8}She tracks her calf
from the bank.
131
00:10:11,566 --> 00:10:19,566
{\an8}♪♪
132
00:10:20,466 --> 00:10:22,809
The calf discovers...
133
00:10:22,833 --> 00:10:24,609
ice.
134
00:10:24,633 --> 00:10:28,242
{\an8}♪♪
135
00:10:28,266 --> 00:10:30,709
[ Calf lowing ]
136
00:10:30,733 --> 00:10:38,733
{\an8}♪♪
137
00:10:44,366 --> 00:10:47,733
{\an1}There's a physical urgency
to find your feet here...
138
00:10:50,500 --> 00:10:53,942
{\an1}...but perhaps a greater
mental urgency for the calf
139
00:10:53,966 --> 00:10:56,242
{\an1}to figure out her world.
140
00:10:56,266 --> 00:11:00,276
{\an8}♪♪
141
00:11:00,300 --> 00:11:03,142
{\an1}The patient mother waits...
142
00:11:03,166 --> 00:11:05,709
{\an1}and her calf finds a way out.
143
00:11:05,733 --> 00:11:13,733
{\an8}♪♪
144
00:11:26,233 --> 00:11:28,342
She's got maybe
another two years
145
00:11:28,366 --> 00:11:30,742
{\an1}looking after this youngster.
146
00:11:30,766 --> 00:11:34,209
The herd of about 15
will protect the calves
147
00:11:34,233 --> 00:11:38,966
{\an1}and search for food around their
large home range until summer.
148
00:11:49,300 --> 00:11:53,542
The caribou have left
the winter woodland far behind,
149
00:11:53,566 --> 00:11:55,809
{\an1}and are heading north.
150
00:11:55,833 --> 00:12:03,833
{\an8}♪♪
151
00:12:05,766 --> 00:12:08,609
By April,
the snow is starting to melt,
152
00:12:08,633 --> 00:12:12,742
{\an1}and many rivers run earlier
than a decade ago.
153
00:12:12,766 --> 00:12:17,976
{\an1}Spring is moving north faster,
and the caribou need to keep up.
154
00:12:18,000 --> 00:12:25,876
{\an8}♪♪
155
00:12:25,900 --> 00:12:29,242
{\an1}The herd heads on for about
a hundred miles,
156
00:12:29,266 --> 00:12:30,909
then will turn west
157
00:12:30,933 --> 00:12:33,942
{\an1}towards the Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge.
158
00:12:33,966 --> 00:12:39,142
{\an8}♪♪
159
00:12:39,166 --> 00:12:43,142
{\an1}It's the end of April.
They are over halfway.
160
00:12:43,166 --> 00:12:44,709
{\an1}The mothers will all give birth
161
00:12:44,733 --> 00:12:47,576
within days of
the third of June.
162
00:12:47,600 --> 00:12:49,233
Six weeks to go.
163
00:12:53,800 --> 00:12:57,642
[ Birds chirping ]
164
00:12:57,666 --> 00:13:01,509
Golden eagles nest
along the route.
165
00:13:01,533 --> 00:13:03,042
{\an1}They came up from the south
166
00:13:03,066 --> 00:13:05,776
{\an1}and established territories
in March,
167
00:13:05,800 --> 00:13:09,600
feeding on hares,
ptarmigan, or marmots.
168
00:13:11,800 --> 00:13:17,542
{\an1}The eagle pair returns to the
same spectacular nest each year.
169
00:13:17,566 --> 00:13:22,476
{\an1}They are loyal to a site
decided over a decade ago.
170
00:13:22,500 --> 00:13:25,309
{\an1}But the calendar has changed
a lot since then.
171
00:13:25,333 --> 00:13:27,833
{\an1}[ Chirping continues ]
172
00:13:37,133 --> 00:13:40,376
{\an1}By early May, the chicks
are near fledging,
173
00:13:40,400 --> 00:13:43,633
and the caribou herd
has already passed.
174
00:13:51,966 --> 00:13:54,700
{\an1}A ground squirrel is breakfast.
175
00:14:00,733 --> 00:14:02,733
[ Insects buzzing ]
176
00:14:07,333 --> 00:14:09,642
{\an1}It will take a new generation
of eagles
177
00:14:09,666 --> 00:14:13,833
{\an1}to make the huge adjustment
to the changes unfolding here.
178
00:14:17,300 --> 00:14:22,476
{\an1}A lone wolf has stuck with
the herd for many miles.
179
00:14:22,500 --> 00:14:30,500
{\an8}♪♪
180
00:14:40,033 --> 00:14:44,042
{\an1}Caribou from a broad area either
side of the Canadian border
181
00:14:44,066 --> 00:14:46,709
are converging
on the same route.
182
00:14:46,733 --> 00:14:50,342
{\an1}They'll navigate around the
eastern end of the Brooks Range,
183
00:14:50,366 --> 00:14:53,342
about 40 miles
from the Arctic shore.
184
00:14:53,366 --> 00:15:01,366
{\an8}♪♪
185
00:15:06,566 --> 00:15:09,876
In a few places,
the route has bottlenecks
186
00:15:09,900 --> 00:15:12,242
{\an1}around rivers and lakes.
187
00:15:12,266 --> 00:15:20,266
{\an8}♪♪
188
00:15:27,300 --> 00:15:31,442
{\an1}This migration of Arctic caribou
is compared to wildebeest
189
00:15:31,466 --> 00:15:35,476
{\an1}on the African savanna,
and so the coastal plain
190
00:15:35,500 --> 00:15:39,576
is sometimes called
America's Serengeti.
191
00:15:39,600 --> 00:15:47,600
{\an8}♪♪
192
00:15:51,733 --> 00:15:53,909
As the herd funnels
through the foothills
193
00:15:53,933 --> 00:15:55,609
of the Brooks Range,
194
00:15:55,633 --> 00:15:58,800
{\an1}the wolf briefly gains
an advantage.
195
00:16:08,600 --> 00:16:13,009
{\an1}The weaker calves from last year
are struggling to keep up.
196
00:16:13,033 --> 00:16:15,442
{\an1}There's been little time
to stop and eat.
197
00:16:15,466 --> 00:16:22,509
{\an8}♪♪
198
00:16:22,533 --> 00:16:24,909
{\an1}As long as the herd stays
watchful
199
00:16:24,933 --> 00:16:28,076
{\an1}and maintains a distance,
they're safe.
200
00:16:28,100 --> 00:16:36,100
{\an8}♪♪
201
00:16:37,033 --> 00:16:39,909
Caribou are faster.
202
00:16:39,933 --> 00:16:42,142
{\an1}The wolf is a tactician,
203
00:16:42,166 --> 00:16:45,542
but tactics
are hard if you work alone.
204
00:16:45,566 --> 00:16:53,566
{\an8}♪♪
205
00:17:07,000 --> 00:17:11,009
{\an1}Here is an unparalleled amount
of food on the hoof,
206
00:17:11,033 --> 00:17:15,309
{\an1}but to this lone wolf, it might
as well not be here at all.
207
00:17:15,333 --> 00:17:23,333
{\an8}♪♪
208
00:17:28,633 --> 00:17:33,576
{\an1}By May, spring has reached the
Arctic National Wildlife Refuge.
209
00:17:33,600 --> 00:17:35,442
[ Buzzing ]
210
00:17:35,466 --> 00:17:39,800
{\an1}Life here has slept under snow
for eight months.
211
00:17:41,266 --> 00:17:44,542
[ Chirps ]
212
00:17:44,566 --> 00:17:48,276
Plovers and redpolls
arrive to nest,
213
00:17:48,300 --> 00:17:51,033
part of a massive
aerial migration.
214
00:17:55,166 --> 00:17:59,276
{\an1}Millions of snow geese
leave California or Texas
215
00:17:59,300 --> 00:18:03,276
and are on their way
to the Arctic Islands of Canada.
216
00:18:03,300 --> 00:18:06,209
They'll stop off here
on their way back.
217
00:18:06,233 --> 00:18:14,233
{\an8}♪♪
218
00:18:18,233 --> 00:18:21,609
{\an1}Sandpipers are part of
the worldwide event.
219
00:18:21,633 --> 00:18:27,542
{\an8}♪♪
220
00:18:27,566 --> 00:18:31,342
{\an1}Golden plovers set off
from Argentina.
221
00:18:31,366 --> 00:18:35,809
{\an1}Terns, loons, and songbirds
come from Antarctica
222
00:18:35,833 --> 00:18:38,876
{\an1}or Africa or East Asia.
223
00:18:38,900 --> 00:18:41,909
Hundreds of species
cross the planet
224
00:18:41,933 --> 00:18:44,442
on their way
to the Arctic north.
225
00:18:44,466 --> 00:18:52,466
{\an8}♪♪
226
00:18:58,166 --> 00:19:03,609
{\an1}A world of birds is heading to
the summer paradise of Alaska.
227
00:19:03,633 --> 00:19:11,633
{\an8}♪♪
228
00:19:12,866 --> 00:19:15,876
[ Chirping ]
229
00:19:15,900 --> 00:19:21,242
{\an1}The golden plover couple have
arranged a nest on the ground,
230
00:19:21,266 --> 00:19:24,933
laid their eggs,
and are raising their chicks.
231
00:19:38,233 --> 00:19:41,976
{\an1}The parents provide some
protection against Arctic foxes
232
00:19:42,000 --> 00:19:44,076
or predatory birds,
233
00:19:44,100 --> 00:19:47,800
{\an1}but it's mainly just warmth
under a camouflaged wing.
234
00:19:58,533 --> 00:20:02,476
{\an1}Once thawed out, the chicks have
to get back to finding food
235
00:20:02,500 --> 00:20:04,133
for themselves.
236
00:20:17,266 --> 00:20:20,242
{\an1}The mother leaves after
a couple of weeks,
237
00:20:20,266 --> 00:20:23,742
{\an1}and the father follows a week
or so later.
238
00:20:23,766 --> 00:20:25,976
{\an1}But the chicks stay longer
239
00:20:26,000 --> 00:20:29,633
{\an1}and have to find their own way
back to South America.
240
00:20:32,600 --> 00:20:35,142
In the meantime,
the chicks catch insects
241
00:20:35,166 --> 00:20:37,142
{\an1}for as long as they can,
242
00:20:37,166 --> 00:20:40,066
{\an1}then come running back
to warm up again.
243
00:20:45,066 --> 00:20:48,542
{\an1}Their mother knows it's not just
the cold that will get them.
244
00:20:48,566 --> 00:20:49,933
[ Chirps ]
245
00:21:00,833 --> 00:21:05,833
{\an1}Arctic foxes live in tunnels in
the layer above the permafrost.
246
00:21:11,100 --> 00:21:12,842
The parents returned
a few months ago
247
00:21:12,866 --> 00:21:17,376
{\an1}from their winter wanderings
in snowy white coats
248
00:21:17,400 --> 00:21:20,533
to give birth
and turn brown for summer.
249
00:21:27,066 --> 00:21:30,509
{\an8}♪♪
250
00:21:30,533 --> 00:21:34,342
{\an1}The cubs were born here
in early May.
251
00:21:34,366 --> 00:21:36,909
{\an1}Now, a few weeks later,
252
00:21:36,933 --> 00:21:39,742
they enjoy
the remarkably warm days.
253
00:21:39,766 --> 00:21:47,766
{\an8}♪♪
254
00:22:02,466 --> 00:22:05,476
{\an1}They need to grow up fast.
255
00:22:05,500 --> 00:22:07,976
The cubs are already eating meat
256
00:22:08,000 --> 00:22:11,009
{\an1}and seem constantly hungry.
257
00:22:11,033 --> 00:22:13,642
Ground squirrels
and nesting birds are here
258
00:22:13,666 --> 00:22:16,466
in large numbers
in May and June.
259
00:22:18,566 --> 00:22:21,242
{\an1}One delivery is not enough
for them all.
260
00:22:21,266 --> 00:22:26,609
{\an8}♪♪
261
00:22:26,633 --> 00:22:29,342
{\an1}The others don't notice
the mother's return
262
00:22:29,366 --> 00:22:31,376
{\an1}until it's almost too late.
263
00:22:31,400 --> 00:22:39,400
{\an8}♪♪
264
00:22:52,566 --> 00:22:54,076
Oh, well.
265
00:22:54,100 --> 00:22:56,076
{\an1}Dad will be back soon with more.
266
00:22:56,100 --> 00:23:00,800
{\an8}♪♪
267
00:23:03,000 --> 00:23:05,942
{\an1}It's a constant meal service
during days
268
00:23:05,966 --> 00:23:08,066
{\an1}that never quite seem to end.
269
00:23:12,600 --> 00:23:15,909
Nesting on the ground
is dangerous,
270
00:23:15,933 --> 00:23:21,776
{\an1}but there is one bird that would
fight off any fox... the jaeger.
271
00:23:21,800 --> 00:23:24,500
{\an1}Jaeger means hunter in German.
272
00:23:27,500 --> 00:23:30,642
{\an1}The caribou are beginning
to arrive.
273
00:23:30,666 --> 00:23:36,076
{\an1}They are tired, hungry,
many are about to give birth,
274
00:23:36,100 --> 00:23:39,533
{\an1}and they could so easily tread
on a bird's nest.
275
00:23:43,800 --> 00:23:47,176
{\an1}The jaegers are not going
to let that happen.
276
00:23:47,200 --> 00:23:50,009
{\an1}They start with some gentle
warnings,
277
00:23:50,033 --> 00:23:52,342
{\an1}but the caribou ignore them.
278
00:23:52,366 --> 00:23:56,509
{\an8}♪♪
279
00:23:56,533 --> 00:23:59,542
{\an1}Yet the jaegers are fearless.
280
00:23:59,566 --> 00:24:07,566
{\an8}♪♪
281
00:24:18,133 --> 00:24:21,176
{\an1}The caribou mother has come
hundreds of miles,
282
00:24:21,200 --> 00:24:23,176
{\an1}faced raging torrents,
283
00:24:23,200 --> 00:24:26,842
been jammed by lakes,
escaped wolves,
284
00:24:26,866 --> 00:24:29,409
and now there's
a determined parent bird
285
00:24:29,433 --> 00:24:31,509
that doesn't want
her here at all.
286
00:24:31,533 --> 00:24:39,533
{\an8}♪♪
287
00:24:40,666 --> 00:24:44,642
{\an1}The caribou respond to
the swooping bird ballet
288
00:24:44,666 --> 00:24:47,142
with strange dance
moves of their own.
289
00:24:47,166 --> 00:24:55,166
{\an8}♪♪
290
00:25:22,266 --> 00:25:24,376
{\an1}As more of the herd arrives,
291
00:25:24,400 --> 00:25:28,166
{\an1}the jaegers battle tirelessly
to keep their eggs safe.
292
00:25:30,233 --> 00:25:34,700
{\an1}For the birds, and for all life
here, there's little rest.
293
00:25:37,100 --> 00:25:39,242
{\an1}Even the sun keeps going,
294
00:25:39,266 --> 00:25:43,176
{\an1}skimming above the horizon
for most of June.
295
00:25:43,200 --> 00:25:51,200
{\an8}♪♪
296
00:25:53,200 --> 00:25:56,276
{\an1}This midnight sun warms
the caribou
297
00:25:56,300 --> 00:25:59,709
{\an1}as they all finally reach
their destination.
298
00:25:59,733 --> 00:26:07,733
{\an8}♪♪
299
00:26:08,766 --> 00:26:11,176
{\an1}These are their calving grounds,
300
00:26:11,200 --> 00:26:15,009
{\an1}in the heart of the Arctic
National Wildlife Refuge.
301
00:26:15,033 --> 00:26:20,309
{\an8}♪♪
302
00:26:20,333 --> 00:26:24,709
{\an1}She must arrive precisely,
so that she's in the right place
303
00:26:24,733 --> 00:26:27,442
{\an1}when, a week to 10 days
after the snow melts,
304
00:26:27,466 --> 00:26:31,233
{\an1}the sedges and grasses
are at their most nutritious.
305
00:26:33,666 --> 00:26:36,642
Somewhere is a mother
giving birth...
306
00:26:36,666 --> 00:26:44,042
{\an1}one new calf among 160,000,
anonymous to all but each other.
307
00:26:44,066 --> 00:26:48,276
{\an1}Almost all the mothers
give birth within a few days.
308
00:26:48,300 --> 00:26:56,300
{\an8}♪♪
309
00:26:58,866 --> 00:27:02,742
{\an1}The calf doubles in size
in two weeks.
310
00:27:02,766 --> 00:27:06,709
{\an1}The first green flush of sedges
is briefly high in protein
311
00:27:06,733 --> 00:27:10,009
and sugars
and coincides within a few days
312
00:27:10,033 --> 00:27:13,409
of when the calf
needs most milk.
313
00:27:13,433 --> 00:27:17,009
{\an1}A week or so later, the grass
will become coarser,
314
00:27:17,033 --> 00:27:20,076
{\an1}bitter, and indigestible.
315
00:27:20,100 --> 00:27:27,509
{\an8}♪♪
316
00:27:27,533 --> 00:27:29,676
{\an1}The caribou slowly spread out,
317
00:27:29,700 --> 00:27:34,242
{\an1}surfing a wave of melting snow
and growing grass.
318
00:27:34,266 --> 00:27:42,266
{\an8}♪♪
319
00:27:43,333 --> 00:27:45,576
{\an1}The successful flood of energy
320
00:27:45,600 --> 00:27:48,842
transforms
the character of the caribou.
321
00:27:48,866 --> 00:27:54,176
{\an8}♪♪
322
00:27:54,200 --> 00:27:57,342
The first people here
feel part of it.
323
00:27:57,366 --> 00:28:01,876
{\an1}Humans and caribou were created
as one, they believe,
324
00:28:01,900 --> 00:28:06,909
{\an1}and each still contains
a piece of each other's heart.
325
00:28:06,933 --> 00:28:10,042
To the Gwich'in,
this is the sacred place
326
00:28:10,066 --> 00:28:12,542
where life begins.
327
00:28:12,566 --> 00:28:20,566
{\an8}♪♪
328
00:28:29,833 --> 00:28:35,809
{\an1}It's late June, and paradise
suddenly closes in.
329
00:28:35,833 --> 00:28:39,509
{\an1}A plague of mosquitoes emerges.
330
00:28:39,533 --> 00:28:41,176
{\an1}[ Mosquitoes buzzing ]
331
00:28:41,200 --> 00:28:44,876
{\an1}Each one may take just
a drop of blood,
332
00:28:44,900 --> 00:28:48,909
{\an1}but the warmer summers
favor the insects.
333
00:28:48,933 --> 00:28:52,266
They emerge earlier
and breed faster.
334
00:29:02,000 --> 00:29:04,309
The mosquitoes take
so much blood
335
00:29:04,333 --> 00:29:07,276
{\an1}and distress the caribou
mothers so much
336
00:29:07,300 --> 00:29:09,742
that the herd spends
the rest of the summer
337
00:29:09,766 --> 00:29:11,676
{\an1}attempting to avoid them
338
00:29:11,700 --> 00:29:14,942
by searching
for somewhere cooler.
339
00:29:14,966 --> 00:29:18,409
Life becomes a daily
balancing act of finding
340
00:29:18,433 --> 00:29:20,342
food for yourself
341
00:29:20,366 --> 00:29:24,642
and not being food
for mosquitoes.
342
00:29:24,666 --> 00:29:28,109
{\an1}The consequences of the hotter
summers may be subtle
343
00:29:28,133 --> 00:29:30,809
{\an1}and complex for the caribou,
344
00:29:30,833 --> 00:29:36,276
{\an1}but the effects to the north
are much more obvious.
345
00:29:36,300 --> 00:29:39,542
{\an1}Over the last 40 years,
the decline of sea ice
346
00:29:39,566 --> 00:29:41,176
in the Beaufort Sea
347
00:29:41,200 --> 00:29:44,542
is one of the most
dramatic changes anywhere.
348
00:29:44,566 --> 00:29:51,709
{\an8}♪♪
349
00:29:51,733 --> 00:29:56,242
{\an1}One of the animals affected most
is the polar bear.
350
00:29:56,266 --> 00:29:58,009
{\an1}During the last ice age,
351
00:29:58,033 --> 00:30:03,276
{\an1}they would probably spend
all year on the frozen sea.
352
00:30:03,300 --> 00:30:06,642
{\an1}Since the ice age ended,
polar bears hunted seals
353
00:30:06,666 --> 00:30:09,709
on the Arctic ice
in winter and spring,
354
00:30:09,733 --> 00:30:12,409
and in late summer,
rested on land,
355
00:30:12,433 --> 00:30:15,642
snoozing and living
off their fat.
356
00:30:15,666 --> 00:30:23,276
{\an8}♪♪
357
00:30:23,300 --> 00:30:27,409
Nowadays the ice on
the Beaufort Sea is erratic.
358
00:30:27,433 --> 00:30:32,676
{\an1}It melts faster, and the bears
arrive early and thinner.
359
00:30:32,700 --> 00:30:40,700
{\an8}♪♪
360
00:30:46,600 --> 00:30:51,609
{\an1}By July, they are hunting
for food along the shore.
361
00:30:51,633 --> 00:30:54,742
{\an1}They're not a huge threat
to the caribou herd.
362
00:30:54,766 --> 00:30:58,376
{\an1}They are lumbering on land,
and easily overheat.
363
00:30:58,400 --> 00:31:00,566
[ Gulls crying ]
364
00:31:08,466 --> 00:31:10,809
{\an1}Years are more variable now,
365
00:31:10,833 --> 00:31:14,776
{\an1}and polar bears are showing
unexpected flexibility.
366
00:31:14,800 --> 00:31:16,876
{\an1}They search for smaller prey
367
00:31:16,900 --> 00:31:19,866
and scavenge
or fight over scraps.
368
00:31:23,066 --> 00:31:25,709
The Arctic Refuge
is a safe home,
369
00:31:25,733 --> 00:31:29,709
{\an1}but there is no refuge
from the outside world.
370
00:31:29,733 --> 00:31:31,676
{\an1}It's too hot for them.
371
00:31:31,700 --> 00:31:35,800
{\an1}The July record here is now
85 degrees Fahrenheit.
372
00:31:39,200 --> 00:31:41,766
{\an1}It's often hardest for a mother.
373
00:31:49,900 --> 00:31:53,842
{\an1}Polar bear cubs are born
in midwinter.
374
00:31:53,866 --> 00:31:58,076
{\an1}This coast is one of the most
important onshore denning areas
375
00:31:58,100 --> 00:31:59,733
in North America.
376
00:32:05,333 --> 00:32:08,276
These cubs are almost
two years old
377
00:32:08,300 --> 00:32:10,400
but still need
their mother's milk.
378
00:32:29,300 --> 00:32:33,909
{\an1}Polar bears have declined
in the southern Beaufort Sea.
379
00:32:33,933 --> 00:32:37,833
{\an1}There are about half of how many
were here 35 years ago.
380
00:32:40,733 --> 00:32:43,609
{\an8}♪♪
381
00:32:43,633 --> 00:32:46,342
{\an1}These are desperate times.
382
00:32:46,366 --> 00:32:48,809
{\an8}♪♪
383
00:32:48,833 --> 00:32:50,933
[ Ship horn blares ]
384
00:32:53,033 --> 00:32:57,842
{\an1}North Alaska has the largest
oil field in America.
385
00:32:57,866 --> 00:33:05,866
{\an8}♪♪
386
00:33:08,366 --> 00:33:11,342
{\an1}The base at Prudhoe Bay
is next to
387
00:33:11,366 --> 00:33:14,542
the Arctic National
Wildlife Refuge.
388
00:33:14,566 --> 00:33:16,176
It's a stark reminder
389
00:33:16,200 --> 00:33:19,009
of the cause of
the changing seasons.
390
00:33:19,033 --> 00:33:27,033
{\an8}♪♪
391
00:33:31,133 --> 00:33:33,909
{\an1}Pipelines extend south
392
00:33:33,933 --> 00:33:37,509
{\an1}and cross several caribou
migration routes.
393
00:33:37,533 --> 00:33:45,533
{\an8}♪♪
394
00:33:46,033 --> 00:33:49,309
{\an1}The polar bears search for food
across land
395
00:33:49,333 --> 00:33:52,576
{\an1}now scarred by oil exploration.
396
00:33:52,600 --> 00:33:59,509
{\an8}♪♪
397
00:33:59,533 --> 00:34:02,009
[ Woman vocalizing ]
398
00:34:02,033 --> 00:34:10,033
{\an8}♪♪
399
00:34:11,333 --> 00:34:14,942
For the caribou,
the green surge is over,
400
00:34:14,966 --> 00:34:16,809
and they are eating willow shrub
401
00:34:16,833 --> 00:34:21,776
{\an1}and searching for anywhere
cooler and mosquito free.
402
00:34:21,800 --> 00:34:25,009
{\an1}For some, that means the coast.
403
00:34:25,033 --> 00:34:29,342
{\an1}Others head south into the
foothills of the Brooks Range.
404
00:34:29,366 --> 00:34:37,176
{\an8}♪♪
405
00:34:37,200 --> 00:34:42,200
{\an1}After enduring the heat of July,
by late August, it's cooler.
406
00:34:49,900 --> 00:34:54,333
{\an1}A mother and calf turn south,
with the protection of the herd.
407
00:34:57,166 --> 00:35:01,642
{\an1}Waiting for them is a grizzly.
408
00:35:01,666 --> 00:35:04,566
Grizzlies and caribou
meet each year.
409
00:35:07,200 --> 00:35:11,066
{\an1}The herd is named after the
Porcupine River they must cross.
410
00:35:19,700 --> 00:35:24,042
{\an1}The bear's journey here
is equally hazardous.
411
00:35:24,066 --> 00:35:28,500
{\an1}In summer, grizzlies hunt
all the way to the Arctic Ocean.
412
00:36:00,033 --> 00:36:02,409
{\an1}The Porcupine caribou herd
413
00:36:02,433 --> 00:36:05,133
is heading south
into the Brooks Range.
414
00:36:10,900 --> 00:36:13,542
{\an8}♪♪
415
00:36:13,566 --> 00:36:17,333
Away from the water,
the caribou start to relax.
416
00:36:21,466 --> 00:36:23,076
It's a mistake.
417
00:36:23,100 --> 00:36:31,100
{\an8}♪♪
418
00:36:36,000 --> 00:36:39,909
{\an1}Caribou may be faster than bears
on the open plain,
419
00:36:39,933 --> 00:36:42,776
but they must also
rest the calves.
420
00:36:42,800 --> 00:36:48,676
{\an8}♪♪
421
00:36:48,700 --> 00:36:52,409
{\an1}Grizzlies and polar bears
are almost the same species
422
00:36:52,433 --> 00:36:55,776
{\an1}and increasingly overlap
and interbreed,
423
00:36:55,800 --> 00:36:59,433
{\an1}but grizzlies are a more
serious threat to the herd.
424
00:37:01,700 --> 00:37:05,376
The bear has learned
to chase off the mothers
425
00:37:05,400 --> 00:37:08,776
{\an1}and then search for calves
hiding in the scrub.
426
00:37:08,800 --> 00:37:16,800
{\an8}♪♪
427
00:37:24,133 --> 00:37:25,833
He's found two.
428
00:37:28,200 --> 00:37:31,676
{\an1}In a moment of indecision...
429
00:37:31,700 --> 00:37:33,300
he loses both.
430
00:37:37,666 --> 00:37:40,976
{\an1}The calf's mother gallops
to his side.
431
00:37:41,000 --> 00:37:44,876
It's a huge victory
after so much hardship.
432
00:37:44,900 --> 00:37:47,309
[ Bear panting ]
433
00:37:47,333 --> 00:37:52,342
{\an8}♪♪
434
00:37:52,366 --> 00:37:54,000
{\an1}Though not for the bear.
435
00:38:02,633 --> 00:38:06,909
{\an1}The journey south crosses
the Brooks Range in fall.
436
00:38:06,933 --> 00:38:10,609
In spring, this route
is blocked by snow,
437
00:38:10,633 --> 00:38:13,809
{\an1}but now they can return
straight over the mountains.
438
00:38:13,833 --> 00:38:21,833
{\an8}♪♪
439
00:38:41,766 --> 00:38:46,409
{\an1}For the calf, this is his
first taste of the wider world,
440
00:38:46,433 --> 00:38:50,709
{\an1}with some new characters...
Dall sheep.
441
00:38:50,733 --> 00:38:58,442
{\an8}♪♪
442
00:38:58,466 --> 00:39:03,076
{\an1}They are cousins of bighorns,
little bighorns,
443
00:39:03,100 --> 00:39:05,133
{\an1}and mountain specialists.
444
00:39:08,766 --> 00:39:11,309
Like musk ox,
they don't migrate,
445
00:39:11,333 --> 00:39:14,409
{\an1}but they do move around
the mountains looking for grass
446
00:39:14,433 --> 00:39:17,942
{\an1}and shrubs between the rocks.
447
00:39:17,966 --> 00:39:22,109
{\an1}The ewes give birth to a single
lamb in late May.
448
00:39:22,133 --> 00:39:26,509
{\an1}By September, they are all
enjoying the last of the summer.
449
00:39:26,533 --> 00:39:32,176
{\an8}♪♪
450
00:39:32,200 --> 00:39:34,109
[ Sheep bleats ]
451
00:39:34,133 --> 00:39:42,133
{\an8}♪♪
452
00:39:43,566 --> 00:39:49,676
{\an1}The mothers gather in flocks
and watch for wolves and eagles.
453
00:39:49,700 --> 00:39:52,176
{\an1}This is the migration route
south,
454
00:39:52,200 --> 00:39:54,809
familiar to more
than just caribou.
455
00:39:54,833 --> 00:39:58,476
{\an8}♪♪
456
00:39:58,500 --> 00:40:01,233
[ Bleating ]
457
00:40:06,333 --> 00:40:14,333
{\an8}♪♪
458
00:40:16,300 --> 00:40:18,242
{\an1}The fledged golden eagle
459
00:40:18,266 --> 00:40:22,876
has been shadowing
the caribou herd south.
460
00:40:22,900 --> 00:40:24,842
{\an1}As the herd turns east,
461
00:40:24,866 --> 00:40:28,176
the caribou face
the mountains' wolves.
462
00:40:28,200 --> 00:40:33,309
{\an8}♪♪
463
00:40:33,333 --> 00:40:37,533
In a small valley,
the herd slows to rest.
464
00:40:42,133 --> 00:40:45,266
{\an1}A lone female plans her hunt.
465
00:40:51,366 --> 00:40:53,276
{\an1}She doesn't try to hide.
466
00:40:53,300 --> 00:40:55,976
The mountains
are on her side now.
467
00:40:56,000 --> 00:41:04,000
{\an8}♪♪
468
00:41:19,500 --> 00:41:22,476
{\an1}A calf becomes separated.
469
00:41:22,500 --> 00:41:30,500
{\an8}♪♪
470
00:41:39,833 --> 00:41:41,209
To its mother,
471
00:41:41,233 --> 00:41:46,366
{\an1}almost home, the trek has
lost its meaning, its purpose.
472
00:41:54,333 --> 00:42:00,409
{\an1}The snow geese arrive here from
the northernmost Arctic islands.
473
00:42:00,433 --> 00:42:04,576
{\an1}This is an important stopover
on their way back to California,
474
00:42:04,600 --> 00:42:07,176
Texas, and Mexico.
475
00:42:07,200 --> 00:42:09,233
[ Squawking ]
476
00:42:11,966 --> 00:42:16,509
{\an1}Snow geese numbers have grown
over the last 20 years.
477
00:42:16,533 --> 00:42:18,709
There are now
20 million of them.
478
00:42:18,733 --> 00:42:24,242
{\an8}♪♪
479
00:42:24,266 --> 00:42:26,642
{\an1}In a world of so much decline,
480
00:42:26,666 --> 00:42:29,876
it's good to know
some species are doing well.
481
00:42:29,900 --> 00:42:37,900
{\an8}♪♪
482
00:42:55,766 --> 00:42:59,976
The autumn storms
are sweeping in.
483
00:43:00,000 --> 00:43:02,576
The weather changes
very quickly.
484
00:43:02,600 --> 00:43:10,600
{\an8}♪♪
485
00:43:14,700 --> 00:43:18,876
{\an1}Ptarmigans have been caught
in their summer plumage.
486
00:43:18,900 --> 00:43:21,966
They'll turn white to
an out-of-date schedule.
487
00:43:26,033 --> 00:43:28,742
As long as the snow
isn't too deep,
488
00:43:28,766 --> 00:43:31,976
{\an1}they can feed on willow buds
and birch.
489
00:43:32,000 --> 00:43:39,076
{\an8}♪♪
490
00:43:39,100 --> 00:43:41,909
{\an1}Ptarmigans are here all year.
491
00:43:41,933 --> 00:43:46,276
{\an1}That makes them a reliable
target for a red fox.
492
00:43:46,300 --> 00:43:54,300
{\an8}♪♪
493
00:44:00,233 --> 00:44:02,342
[ Calling ]
494
00:44:02,366 --> 00:44:05,642
{\an1}The many eyes of a flock
495
00:44:05,666 --> 00:44:09,133
and their sharp calls
protect them for now.
496
00:44:11,400 --> 00:44:14,042
{\an1}Red foxes are thriving
in the Arctic
497
00:44:14,066 --> 00:44:18,442
{\an1}and out-compete Arctic foxes
if the weather is milder.
498
00:44:18,466 --> 00:44:26,466
{\an8}♪♪
499
00:44:34,466 --> 00:44:37,642
By October,
the rivers are frozen
500
00:44:37,666 --> 00:44:39,376
{\an1}and are buried under snow.
501
00:44:39,400 --> 00:44:46,809
{\an8}♪♪
502
00:44:46,833 --> 00:44:50,476
{\an1}The musk ox have to dig
for vegetation again.
503
00:44:50,500 --> 00:44:57,276
{\an8}♪♪
504
00:44:57,300 --> 00:45:01,309
The male musk ox
have other concerns.
505
00:45:01,333 --> 00:45:03,009
{\an1}Before winter arrives,
506
00:45:03,033 --> 00:45:06,276
{\an1}they must sort out mating rights
to the harem.
507
00:45:06,300 --> 00:45:08,376
{\an1}The rut started in August
508
00:45:08,400 --> 00:45:11,109
and a clear victor
has yet to emerge.
509
00:45:11,133 --> 00:45:19,133
{\an8}♪♪
510
00:45:26,700 --> 00:45:29,809
[ Growling ]
511
00:45:29,833 --> 00:45:37,833
{\an8}♪♪
512
00:46:03,166 --> 00:46:07,176
{\an1}The musk ox are also related
to bighorn sheep,
513
00:46:07,200 --> 00:46:09,142
but are much bigger.
514
00:46:09,166 --> 00:46:11,909
{\an1}Males weigh in at 800 pounds,
515
00:46:11,933 --> 00:46:16,576
{\an1}and their closing speed
is close to 60 miles an hour.
516
00:46:16,600 --> 00:46:19,442
Their skulls are
heavily reinforced
517
00:46:19,466 --> 00:46:22,176
and the brain
protected by fluid.
518
00:46:22,200 --> 00:46:30,200
{\an8}♪♪
519
00:46:35,466 --> 00:46:39,742
They back away,
but only to prepare for combat.
520
00:46:39,766 --> 00:46:46,242
{\an8}♪♪
521
00:46:46,266 --> 00:46:49,609
{\an1}On the right, the older waits,
522
00:46:49,633 --> 00:46:51,776
then charges.
523
00:46:51,800 --> 00:46:59,800
{\an8}♪♪
524
00:47:04,400 --> 00:47:07,142
{\an1}There's probably no other animal
on Earth
525
00:47:07,166 --> 00:47:09,133
{\an1}that could survive this battle.
526
00:47:12,366 --> 00:47:15,076
{\an1}The winner will now mate
with the herd.
527
00:47:15,100 --> 00:47:21,076
{\an8}♪♪
528
00:47:21,100 --> 00:47:25,742
By October,
the land is frozen solid.
529
00:47:25,766 --> 00:47:28,909
[ Gulls crying ]
530
00:47:28,933 --> 00:47:32,242
Two polar bear cubs
have survived the summer
531
00:47:32,266 --> 00:47:34,009
{\an1}thanks to their mother.
532
00:47:34,033 --> 00:47:42,033
{\an8}♪♪
533
00:47:44,033 --> 00:47:46,776
{\an1}The sea won't freeze solid
until November,
534
00:47:46,800 --> 00:47:52,109
{\an7}but some coastal bays and river
estuaries freeze earlier.
535
00:47:52,133 --> 00:47:56,266
{\an8}It's their playground
while they wait.
536
00:47:59,433 --> 00:48:01,176
{\an1}On warm days the surface
537
00:48:01,200 --> 00:48:04,809
starts to melt
and becomes slippery
538
00:48:04,833 --> 00:48:08,176
{\an1}and tides weaken the new ice.
539
00:48:08,200 --> 00:48:11,076
{\an1}The surface is still fragile.
540
00:48:11,100 --> 00:48:19,100
{\an8}♪♪
541
00:48:32,133 --> 00:48:35,642
{\an1}By midwinter, they'll be
sniffing out seals
542
00:48:35,666 --> 00:48:39,042
{\an1}in a freezing twilight
far from land.
543
00:48:39,066 --> 00:48:45,009
{\an8}♪♪
544
00:48:45,033 --> 00:48:48,976
{\an1}This is their ice age home
at last,
545
00:48:49,000 --> 00:48:53,642
{\an1}a timeless scene that leaves
behind a world of change.
546
00:48:53,666 --> 00:49:01,666
{\an8}♪♪
547
00:49:01,800 --> 00:49:06,233
{\an8}Then the ice breaks,
and reality returns.
548
00:49:19,466 --> 00:49:21,876
{\an1}The sea melts and refreezes
549
00:49:21,900 --> 00:49:25,876
and will melt again
for two frustrating months.
550
00:49:25,900 --> 00:49:33,900
{\an8}♪♪
551
00:49:35,300 --> 00:49:38,942
{\an1}The polar bears of the southern
Beaufort Sea are doing better
552
00:49:38,966 --> 00:49:42,609
than many others
around the Arctic.
553
00:49:42,633 --> 00:49:50,633
{\an8}♪♪
554
00:49:55,033 --> 00:49:59,176
{\an7}The Arctic National Wildlife
Refuge protects the dens,
555
00:49:59,200 --> 00:50:03,409
{\an7}and mothers have become
expert scavengers.
556
00:50:03,433 --> 00:50:08,476
{\an7}Their sense of smell is probably
the best of all animals.
557
00:50:08,500 --> 00:50:16,500
{\an8}♪♪
558
00:50:26,933 --> 00:50:29,076
{\an1}And look what they've found.
559
00:50:29,100 --> 00:50:35,176
{\an8}♪♪
560
00:50:35,200 --> 00:50:39,042
{\an1}It's a bowhead whale...
What's left of it.
561
00:50:39,066 --> 00:50:41,400
[ Gulls crying ]
562
00:50:43,966 --> 00:50:46,842
With unpredictable
winter ice ahead,
563
00:50:46,866 --> 00:50:50,742
{\an1}this bowhead carcass is
a salvation for the family
564
00:50:50,766 --> 00:50:54,376
and for all the local
polar bears.
565
00:50:54,400 --> 00:50:56,733
{\an1}They will feed for weeks.
566
00:50:58,533 --> 00:51:04,242
{\an1}Bowhead whales are increasing,
maybe thanks to longer summers.
567
00:51:04,266 --> 00:51:07,833
{\an1}Everything is changing,
and everything is connected.
568
00:51:10,366 --> 00:51:13,042
{\an1}There is regulated whale
hunting here,
569
00:51:13,066 --> 00:51:15,042
and this carcass
has actually been left
570
00:51:15,066 --> 00:51:17,600
{\an1}on the beach for the wildlife.
571
00:51:19,800 --> 00:51:22,542
For the polar bears,
it's a lifeline,
572
00:51:22,566 --> 00:51:24,200
{\an1}but maybe little more.
573
00:51:26,500 --> 00:51:29,942
They are ice bears,
evolved in another world.
574
00:51:29,966 --> 00:51:35,776
{\an8}♪♪
575
00:51:35,800 --> 00:51:40,209
{\an1}Across millions of years,
the Earth has seen huge changes
576
00:51:40,233 --> 00:51:42,476
many times.
577
00:51:42,500 --> 00:51:47,542
{\an1}The most recent was the end of
the Ice Age, 12,000 years ago.
578
00:51:47,566 --> 00:51:54,942
{\an8}♪♪
579
00:51:54,966 --> 00:51:56,742
{\an1}This extraordinary wilderness
580
00:51:56,766 --> 00:52:00,142
{\an1}protects these Ice Age
survivors...
581
00:52:00,166 --> 00:52:04,076
The polar bears,
musk ox, arctic foxes,
582
00:52:04,100 --> 00:52:06,409
{\an1}and the spectacular caribou,
583
00:52:06,433 --> 00:52:10,842
holding out
on the top of the world.
584
00:52:10,866 --> 00:52:15,342
Now, even for them,
the ice age may, finally,
585
00:52:15,366 --> 00:52:17,209
be coming to an end.
586
00:52:17,233 --> 00:52:19,576
[ Woman vocalizing ]
587
00:52:19,600 --> 00:52:23,333
{\an8}♪♪
588
00:52:25,366 --> 00:52:33,366
{\an8}♪♪
589
00:52:57,766 --> 00:53:01,209
{\an7}To learn more about what you've
seen on this "Nature" program,
590
00:53:01,233 --> 00:53:03,209
{\an8}visit pbs.org.
591
00:53:03,233 --> 00:53:11,233
{\an8}♪♪