1 00:00:53,344 --> 00:00:55,429 FROSTY: We all come from the sea... 2 00:00:55,597 --> 00:00:57,514 ...but we are not all of the sea. 3 00:01:02,812 --> 00:01:06,857 Those of us who are, we children of the tides... 4 00:01:07,025 --> 00:01:10,360 ...must return to it again and again. 5 00:01:34,385 --> 00:01:37,679 BOY: Four a thousand. Five a thousand. 6 00:01:37,847 --> 00:01:41,183 Six a thousand. Seven a thousand. 7 00:01:41,351 --> 00:01:42,976 Eight a thousand. 8 00:01:43,144 --> 00:01:44,603 Nine a thousand. 9 00:01:45,647 --> 00:01:49,691 One a thousand. Two a thousand. 10 00:01:49,859 --> 00:01:52,861 Three a thousand. Four a thousand. 11 00:01:53,029 --> 00:01:54,154 Five a thousand. 12 00:01:54,322 --> 00:01:56,281 Six a thousand. 13 00:01:56,449 --> 00:01:58,325 Seven a thousand. Eight a thousand. 14 00:01:58,493 --> 00:01:59,910 Go. Ball. Go over there! 15 00:02:00,078 --> 00:02:01,745 Pick it up, pick it up, pick it up. 16 00:02:01,913 --> 00:02:03,539 JAY: Ten a thousand. KlM: Come on! 17 00:02:03,706 --> 00:02:06,208 Eleven a thousand. 18 00:02:06,376 --> 00:02:08,377 Come on, Jay, let's go! We're gonna get wet. 19 00:02:08,545 --> 00:02:09,878 Man, did you see that? 20 00:02:10,046 --> 00:02:12,381 lt's building! 21 00:02:12,549 --> 00:02:14,883 That was the longest one yet. 22 00:02:15,051 --> 00:02:18,428 One a thousand. Two a thousand. 23 00:02:18,680 --> 00:02:21,014 Oh. Three a thousand. 24 00:02:21,182 --> 00:02:22,349 Four a thousand. 25 00:02:22,517 --> 00:02:24,226 Five-- Sophie, no! 26 00:02:33,403 --> 00:02:35,445 Jay, no! Look out! 27 00:02:39,117 --> 00:02:40,576 Jay! 28 00:02:44,747 --> 00:02:46,748 [COUGHlNG] 29 00:02:49,836 --> 00:02:51,920 [GASPlNG] 30 00:03:34,923 --> 00:03:36,924 [SOPHlE BARKlNG] 31 00:03:45,850 --> 00:03:47,976 FROSTY: Oh, yeah, you're smiling now, big shot. 32 00:03:48,144 --> 00:03:51,146 But if l hadn't paddled around the Point at that exact moment.... 33 00:03:51,314 --> 00:03:53,232 lt's a miracle, that's what it is. 34 00:03:53,399 --> 00:03:55,692 And l don't believe in miracles. How old are you? 35 00:03:55,860 --> 00:03:57,527 What, 6, 7? 36 00:03:57,695 --> 00:03:58,737 Eight. 37 00:03:58,905 --> 00:04:00,322 And three quarters, sir. 38 00:04:00,490 --> 00:04:03,158 Well, you just used up your entire allotment of dumb luck. 39 00:04:03,326 --> 00:04:05,577 Here's a novel idea. 40 00:04:05,745 --> 00:04:08,622 On your next little date, why don't you go to the arcade... 41 00:04:08,790 --> 00:04:10,249 ...or pee-wee golfing. 42 00:04:10,416 --> 00:04:12,834 Or something that doesn't involve getting you killed. 43 00:04:13,002 --> 00:04:15,754 Because he likes to time the waves. Shh. 44 00:04:15,922 --> 00:04:17,714 KlM: What? You do. 45 00:04:17,882 --> 00:04:19,424 What do you mean, time the waves? 46 00:04:21,135 --> 00:04:24,972 Um, to see if the swell is building or dropping. 47 00:04:25,139 --> 00:04:27,182 The more seconds between them... 48 00:04:27,350 --> 00:04:30,686 ...each wave in a set, it means it's getting bigger. 49 00:04:30,853 --> 00:04:32,479 Who taught you that? 50 00:04:32,855 --> 00:04:34,314 Nobody, sir. 51 00:04:34,482 --> 00:04:36,441 Just figured it out. 52 00:04:36,609 --> 00:04:39,486 You just figured that out on your own? 53 00:04:42,156 --> 00:04:43,198 Okay. 54 00:04:53,751 --> 00:04:55,377 JAY.. Thanks. Bye. 55 00:04:55,545 --> 00:04:57,170 Bye. Okay. KlM: Bye. 56 00:04:57,338 --> 00:04:59,131 Go straight inside, all right? 57 00:05:01,009 --> 00:05:02,259 Close the door. 58 00:05:13,688 --> 00:05:15,022 What now? 59 00:05:15,189 --> 00:05:17,482 How big you reckon that wave was, sir? 60 00:05:17,650 --> 00:05:19,026 lt's a small world, kid... 61 00:05:19,193 --> 00:05:22,070 ...but how they gauge the size of waves, well, that differs... 62 00:05:22,238 --> 00:05:25,365 ...from place to place, so, hard to say. 63 00:05:25,533 --> 00:05:27,951 So it might be bigger somewhere else? 64 00:05:30,455 --> 00:05:31,747 Look... 65 00:05:31,914 --> 00:05:33,623 ...it was definitely big enough, okay? 66 00:05:46,429 --> 00:05:49,431 Like l said, kid, small world. 67 00:05:52,769 --> 00:05:55,437 l appreciate you saving Sophie, Jay. 68 00:05:55,605 --> 00:05:58,607 One of the bravest things l've ever seen. 69 00:06:02,278 --> 00:06:04,571 [BABY CRYlNG] 70 00:06:14,207 --> 00:06:40,982 Mom? 71 00:06:51,077 --> 00:06:53,078 [SNlFFS] 72 00:06:57,166 --> 00:06:59,668 Hi, baby. 73 00:07:00,461 --> 00:07:03,171 Unh. Sorry, Mama's not feeling so good. 74 00:07:06,175 --> 00:07:07,342 Don't worry... 75 00:07:08,636 --> 00:07:10,512 ...Dad will change his mind. 76 00:07:12,515 --> 00:07:15,183 There are hot dogs in the fridge. 77 00:07:58,436 --> 00:07:59,936 Hey. 78 00:08:01,481 --> 00:08:03,064 Hey. Need a hand? 79 00:08:03,232 --> 00:08:05,942 Heh. What with, the coffee or the cupboard? 80 00:08:06,110 --> 00:08:08,570 [CHUCKLES] 81 00:08:08,738 --> 00:08:11,448 Uh, you just missed Roque again. 82 00:08:12,408 --> 00:08:14,451 Just put her down. 83 00:08:15,244 --> 00:08:17,245 Ahem. Yeah. 84 00:08:17,413 --> 00:08:21,124 l had to help a friend out after work. Mm-hm. 85 00:08:21,292 --> 00:08:23,627 l'll go in, l'll give her a kiss. 86 00:08:26,631 --> 00:08:28,924 Kiss would be nice. 87 00:08:29,091 --> 00:08:32,427 Conversation every once in a while, maybe nicer. 88 00:08:37,475 --> 00:08:39,768 CHRlSTY: Time to wake up, Jay. 89 00:08:42,688 --> 00:08:43,730 Okay. 90 00:08:43,898 --> 00:08:45,023 How do l look? 91 00:08:45,191 --> 00:08:46,942 You look awesome. 92 00:08:48,444 --> 00:08:51,488 l have an interview at Sears. 93 00:08:51,656 --> 00:08:55,033 So, l'm coming home at 12:00 and we are going to get school supplies. 94 00:08:55,201 --> 00:08:56,493 Good luck. 95 00:08:56,744 --> 00:08:57,786 Thank you. 96 00:08:58,454 --> 00:09:00,455 [DOOR OPENS] 97 00:09:08,130 --> 00:09:10,131 [SlGHS] 98 00:09:21,477 --> 00:09:22,852 [GRUNTS] 99 00:09:58,347 --> 00:09:59,639 [SlGHS] 100 00:10:07,815 --> 00:10:09,357 Excuse me. Ma'am? 101 00:10:09,525 --> 00:10:11,443 Hi. Your husband home? 102 00:10:11,611 --> 00:10:14,070 Uh, well, depends on who's asking. 103 00:10:14,363 --> 00:10:16,364 l'm Jay Moriarity, ma'am. 104 00:10:16,532 --> 00:10:18,617 He saved my life down at Three Mile yesterday. 105 00:10:18,784 --> 00:10:20,869 Oh, sweetie, l'm sorry, l think you're mistaken... 106 00:10:21,037 --> 00:10:24,039 ...because Frosty was up in Scott's Valley laying roof yesterday. 107 00:10:24,206 --> 00:10:26,875 No, ma'am. He was surfing the exact same time... 108 00:10:27,126 --> 00:10:28,877 ...l used up my allotment of dumb luck. 109 00:10:30,421 --> 00:10:31,463 ls that so? 110 00:10:31,631 --> 00:10:35,050 Frosty is actually down at The Point right now... 111 00:10:35,217 --> 00:10:38,887 ...but is there anything that l can help you with, Jay Moriarity? 112 00:10:39,055 --> 00:10:44,976 Well, l seem to be missing parts on the bottom of my board. 113 00:10:48,648 --> 00:10:49,814 Okay. 114 00:10:49,982 --> 00:10:51,983 Fins, fins, fins. 115 00:10:54,403 --> 00:10:56,821 Where does he keep them? Oh. Wow. 116 00:11:00,409 --> 00:11:01,993 BRENDA: They call that thing a gun. 117 00:11:02,745 --> 00:11:04,162 [BRENDA CHUCKLES] 118 00:11:04,330 --> 00:11:06,081 lt's for riding the really big monsters. 119 00:11:07,041 --> 00:11:08,124 Like that. 120 00:11:08,918 --> 00:11:10,168 JAY.. Where is that? 121 00:11:10,336 --> 00:11:11,920 You should ask Frosty yourself. 122 00:11:12,088 --> 00:11:13,254 Thanks. 123 00:11:19,303 --> 00:11:21,304 [GRUNTlNG] 124 00:11:22,598 --> 00:11:24,599 [PEOPLE CHATTERlNG] 125 00:11:44,453 --> 00:11:46,538 Beat it, little trash. 126 00:12:53,939 --> 00:12:55,940 [GASPS] 127 00:13:20,216 --> 00:13:22,217 [GASPS THEN COUGHlNG] 128 00:13:24,804 --> 00:13:27,305 Blondie, what are you doing? 129 00:13:29,892 --> 00:13:31,226 Hey, man, you got to go in. 130 00:13:31,393 --> 00:13:32,560 You're bleeding. 131 00:13:32,728 --> 00:13:33,770 l can't. 132 00:13:33,938 --> 00:13:36,105 Not until l get up. 133 00:13:36,273 --> 00:13:38,608 Dude, believe me, nobody gets up their first time. 134 00:13:39,860 --> 00:13:42,529 Okay, okay. l'm only doing this because you're gonna... 135 00:13:42,696 --> 00:13:44,823 ...start attracting sharks with all that blood. 136 00:13:44,990 --> 00:13:48,076 When l say "now," you paddle as hard as you can... 137 00:13:48,244 --> 00:13:50,203 ...towards shore, you got it? 138 00:13:50,496 --> 00:13:55,917 Now? No. 139 00:13:57,586 --> 00:13:59,420 Now? Yeah! Paddle, paddle, paddle! 140 00:13:59,713 --> 00:14:01,756 [SPONGE'S "PLOWED" PLAYlNG] 141 00:14:20,943 --> 00:14:25,446 Will l wake up? Some dream l made up? 142 00:14:25,614 --> 00:14:32,120 No, l guess it's reality 143 00:14:33,581 --> 00:14:37,792 What will change us? Or will we mess up 144 00:14:38,127 --> 00:14:44,757 Our only chance To connect with a dream? 145 00:14:46,218 --> 00:14:50,638 Say a prayer for me Say a prayer for me 146 00:14:50,806 --> 00:14:54,851 Say a prayer for me For me, for me 147 00:14:55,227 --> 00:14:59,439 Say a prayer for me Say a prayer for me 148 00:14:59,607 --> 00:15:04,944 I'm buried by the sound 149 00:15:11,160 --> 00:15:13,578 Hey, paddle. Paddle, paddle, paddle! Now! 150 00:15:13,746 --> 00:15:15,538 Go, go, go! 151 00:15:15,706 --> 00:15:17,540 Yeah! 152 00:15:17,708 --> 00:15:20,293 You stealing a page out of my playbook there? 153 00:15:20,461 --> 00:15:21,836 [LAUGHS] 154 00:15:22,004 --> 00:15:23,463 Couldn't help myself, Blondie. 155 00:15:23,631 --> 00:15:25,214 lt's always been a keeper. 156 00:15:26,425 --> 00:15:29,052 [PEOPLE CHATTERlNG] 157 00:15:29,637 --> 00:15:31,554 Hey, little trash. 158 00:15:31,722 --> 00:15:34,182 Got a question for you. Yeah. 159 00:15:34,350 --> 00:15:36,768 What exactly are you trying to compensate for... 160 00:15:36,936 --> 00:15:38,853 ...with this long board of yours? Huh? 161 00:15:39,021 --> 00:15:41,940 l was about to ask you the same thing about that bat. 162 00:15:45,194 --> 00:15:46,694 Y'all come back now, you hear? 163 00:15:46,862 --> 00:15:48,279 [BAT CLANGS] 164 00:15:48,447 --> 00:15:50,031 [MlCKY WOLF'S "HOMETOWN REGGAE" PLAYlNG OVER SPEAKERS] 165 00:15:50,199 --> 00:15:52,575 BOY 1 : Come on, let's go! Okay, okay, we're coming. 166 00:15:52,743 --> 00:15:54,285 BOY 1 : Sometime today, please. 167 00:15:54,453 --> 00:15:56,913 [BOY 2 & GlRL SPEAKlNG lNDlSTlNCTLY] 168 00:15:57,081 --> 00:15:59,374 Hey, Kim. Hi! 169 00:15:59,541 --> 00:16:00,750 How was it out there? 170 00:16:01,335 --> 00:16:05,004 Feels good. Feels like the swell is building. Yeah? Did you time it? 171 00:16:05,506 --> 00:16:07,173 BOY 1 : Kimmy, come on, we got to go. 172 00:16:07,341 --> 00:16:10,134 Um, all right, well, maybe l'll see you out there. 173 00:16:10,678 --> 00:16:13,388 Later. Whoo! 174 00:16:18,477 --> 00:16:19,936 Let her be, dude. 175 00:16:20,688 --> 00:16:22,355 She's too old for you. 176 00:16:23,649 --> 00:16:26,776 CHRlSTY: Get out! Get out of my house! Aah! 177 00:16:26,944 --> 00:16:28,027 MAN: Get down! JAY: Mom! 178 00:16:28,195 --> 00:16:31,197 MAN: And you stay down there! l'm tired of this! Get off me! Okay? 179 00:16:31,365 --> 00:16:32,699 JAY: Mom! ELl: l'm not going anywhere! 180 00:16:32,866 --> 00:16:34,033 Jay. 181 00:16:34,201 --> 00:16:38,246 Easy, kid. This is about back rent! She tried grabbing me! 182 00:16:38,414 --> 00:16:40,623 All l did-- CHRlSTY: He owes us money! 183 00:16:40,791 --> 00:16:43,084 ELl: Get off me! Unh! CHRlSTY: No! 184 00:16:43,252 --> 00:16:44,585 ELl: Take it easy, kid! 185 00:16:44,753 --> 00:16:46,587 CHRlSTY: Jay! No! BLOND: Jay! 186 00:16:46,755 --> 00:16:48,256 Jay, stop, stop! Jay! 187 00:16:48,507 --> 00:16:50,508 [SlREN WAlLlNG] 188 00:16:51,301 --> 00:16:52,719 Cops! Cops! 189 00:16:52,886 --> 00:16:54,095 They're coming! Come on! 190 00:16:55,889 --> 00:16:57,807 OFFlCER 1 : Hey, hey! Break it up! Break it up! 191 00:16:59,435 --> 00:17:00,935 ELl: Get off me! 192 00:17:02,604 --> 00:17:04,605 [PANTlNG] 193 00:17:06,108 --> 00:17:08,860 OFFlCER 2: This is Victor-1-2. We're on the scene. 194 00:17:35,804 --> 00:17:37,138 [VAN DOOR OPENS] 195 00:17:38,640 --> 00:17:39,682 [ENGlNE STARTS] 196 00:17:57,910 --> 00:17:59,911 [VAN DOOR CLOSES] 197 00:18:05,334 --> 00:18:08,878 MAN [ON RADlO]: Offshore buoys are reporting seas of 25 feet at 1 6 seconds. 198 00:18:12,174 --> 00:18:14,634 Coming from the west northwest at 295 degrees. 199 00:18:14,802 --> 00:18:17,595 Northwest winds are forecasted at 1 5 to 20 knots. 200 00:18:17,763 --> 00:18:20,598 Swells are expected to reach up to 28 feet... 201 00:18:20,766 --> 00:18:23,017 ...at 17 seconds near shore. 202 00:18:55,676 --> 00:18:58,427 FROSTY: Morning, Frank. Careful out there, son. 203 00:19:21,118 --> 00:19:22,618 Hey, buddy. What's up? 204 00:19:24,830 --> 00:19:27,081 Next level out there today, boys. 205 00:19:27,249 --> 00:19:29,167 Twenty-five at 16. 206 00:19:29,334 --> 00:19:31,878 Let's rock and roll. 207 00:19:32,045 --> 00:19:33,254 Right. 208 00:19:33,422 --> 00:19:35,423 Let's do it. 209 00:21:54,771 --> 00:21:57,064 JAY: Yeah, Frosty! 210 00:22:05,615 --> 00:22:07,908 FROSTY: Now, we'll agree to forget how you got up here... 211 00:22:08,076 --> 00:22:13,080 ...but as far as most are concerned, that wave's a myth. Like a Loch Ness monster. 212 00:22:13,248 --> 00:22:16,834 The four of us who surf there want to keep it that way. ls that clear? 213 00:22:19,087 --> 00:22:22,965 MAN: Buoys reporting swells of 28 feet at 17 seconds coming from-- 214 00:22:23,133 --> 00:22:24,717 [TURNS OFF RADlO] 215 00:22:27,763 --> 00:22:28,763 [SlGHS] 216 00:22:31,475 --> 00:22:34,018 How big was that wave? Did you hear what l just said? 217 00:22:35,645 --> 00:22:37,229 Yes, sir. 218 00:22:37,397 --> 00:22:38,939 Loch Ness monster. 219 00:22:46,573 --> 00:22:47,615 [SlGHS] 220 00:22:52,329 --> 00:22:53,746 How's it going over there? 221 00:22:53,914 --> 00:22:56,374 Mom's not renting out the back anymore. 222 00:22:56,541 --> 00:22:58,417 Means l get my own room. 223 00:22:58,585 --> 00:23:01,045 But l got to double-up my shifts at Pleasure Pizza. 224 00:23:03,215 --> 00:23:04,256 And your father? 225 00:23:06,259 --> 00:23:09,136 He wrote me a letter a few years back from his base in Panama. 226 00:23:11,139 --> 00:23:12,139 So what'd he say? 227 00:23:14,226 --> 00:23:15,267 l don't know. 228 00:23:16,645 --> 00:23:18,354 Never opened it. 229 00:23:22,442 --> 00:23:23,776 All right, well... 230 00:23:23,944 --> 00:23:26,654 ...l got to get out of here. Got to get to work. 231 00:23:29,366 --> 00:23:32,660 Hey, sir, l want to ride that wave. 232 00:23:32,828 --> 00:23:34,328 l want to take that drop. 233 00:23:34,496 --> 00:23:35,704 Not gonna happen. 234 00:23:35,872 --> 00:23:37,331 Why not? 235 00:23:37,499 --> 00:23:39,708 Because untrained boys don't step in the ring... 236 00:23:39,876 --> 00:23:41,502 ...with Mike Tyson, that's why. 237 00:23:41,670 --> 00:23:42,837 l can handle it. 238 00:23:43,004 --> 00:23:45,005 You don't just do it. 239 00:23:45,173 --> 00:23:47,675 Buddy, l've been surfing that break for 20 years. 240 00:23:47,843 --> 00:23:50,511 You have any idea how much strength and know-how you need... 241 00:23:50,679 --> 00:23:52,179 ...to survive a break like that? 242 00:23:52,347 --> 00:23:55,766 Frosty, l'm getting stronger by the day. l'll hold my own. 243 00:23:56,101 --> 00:23:58,894 Stronger by the day, huh? Yeah. 244 00:23:59,062 --> 00:24:01,272 Okay, give me your hand. 245 00:24:02,774 --> 00:24:04,066 Now resist me. 246 00:24:04,234 --> 00:24:05,526 Okay, that all you got? 247 00:24:05,694 --> 00:24:06,694 [GRUNTlNG] 248 00:24:06,862 --> 00:24:09,280 ls that it? ls that it? 249 00:24:09,573 --> 00:24:11,198 Ow! Ow, ow, ow. 250 00:24:11,366 --> 00:24:14,201 Okay. You ain't strong enough. 251 00:24:16,121 --> 00:24:18,247 Right now, l'm surfing every single day, right? 252 00:24:18,415 --> 00:24:20,082 So, if l-- Shut up, all right? 253 00:24:21,376 --> 00:24:23,002 Now, l know how good you are. 254 00:24:23,170 --> 00:24:25,129 l've seen you out there. 255 00:24:25,297 --> 00:24:27,506 You surf circles around those other kids. 256 00:24:28,592 --> 00:24:30,551 But those are normal waves. 257 00:24:31,511 --> 00:24:33,721 Surfing normal waves is about how you perform... 258 00:24:33,889 --> 00:24:35,681 ...when everything goes right. 259 00:24:35,849 --> 00:24:38,976 Now, big-wave surfing, that's a different ball game. 260 00:24:39,144 --> 00:24:41,896 That's about how you perform when everything goes wrong. 261 00:24:43,148 --> 00:24:45,357 One bump off the face of that wave... 262 00:24:45,525 --> 00:24:48,652 ...and you're hitting the water like concrete at 50 miles an hour. 263 00:24:48,820 --> 00:24:51,739 And you got a thousand tons of water coming down on top of you. 264 00:24:51,907 --> 00:24:54,575 lt's knocking you senseless, ripping you apart... 265 00:24:54,743 --> 00:24:57,161 ...and pushing you down to a place that is so deep... 266 00:24:57,329 --> 00:25:00,623 ...and so dark, you don't want to be there. 267 00:25:02,626 --> 00:25:04,084 So why do it? 268 00:25:05,670 --> 00:25:10,424 Heh. Come on, get out of here. l got work to do. 269 00:25:10,592 --> 00:25:15,262 Train me, then. Train me to ride it. Did you hear what l said? 270 00:25:15,972 --> 00:25:17,431 Go on, get. 271 00:25:28,109 --> 00:25:30,152 BRENDA: You don't get it, do you? 272 00:25:36,451 --> 00:25:37,535 What? 273 00:25:38,787 --> 00:25:42,540 There are all kinds of sons, Frosty, you know? 274 00:25:42,707 --> 00:25:46,460 Some are born to you and some just occur to you. 275 00:25:47,587 --> 00:25:50,297 Jay has looked up to you his entire life. 276 00:25:50,465 --> 00:25:52,591 l mean, can't you see how much he needs you? 277 00:25:52,759 --> 00:25:54,843 You want me to teach him to surf that wave? 278 00:25:55,011 --> 00:25:56,637 He's a kid. 279 00:25:57,472 --> 00:25:59,223 You made me promise l wouldn't even surf that-- 280 00:25:59,391 --> 00:26:01,809 Yeah, and you break that promise every chance you get. 281 00:26:01,977 --> 00:26:04,311 You think l don't know where you were this morning? 282 00:26:04,479 --> 00:26:07,106 l heard the message on the machine. "25 at 1 6"? Come on. 283 00:26:07,274 --> 00:26:09,233 l don't know where you're going with this. 284 00:26:09,401 --> 00:26:12,278 That boy's gonna surf that wave anyway. You know that, right? 285 00:26:12,445 --> 00:26:14,863 Even if he dies trying. 286 00:26:16,157 --> 00:26:17,866 l mean, wouldn't you? 287 00:26:38,430 --> 00:26:39,930 [CORNERSHOP'S "BRlMFUL OF ASHA" PLAYlNG OVER SPEAKERS] 288 00:26:40,098 --> 00:26:42,349 She's the one that keeps the dream alive 289 00:26:42,517 --> 00:26:46,270 BLOND: Okay, two Hawaiians, two Santa Barbara... 290 00:26:46,438 --> 00:26:48,397 ...one pepperoni and one cheese. All right. 291 00:26:48,565 --> 00:26:49,815 GlRL: Thank you. 292 00:26:50,525 --> 00:26:52,568 Well, it's a brimful of asha 293 00:26:52,736 --> 00:26:54,236 Dude. Dude. 294 00:26:54,404 --> 00:26:57,698 lt goes, first sauce, then cheese, then toppings. 295 00:26:58,074 --> 00:27:00,159 lt's not rocket science. 296 00:27:00,327 --> 00:27:03,495 You all right? You haven't been here since you got here, man. 297 00:27:03,663 --> 00:27:06,290 You ever see something and you think... 298 00:27:06,458 --> 00:27:09,835 ...like, it's the reason you were put here? l mean, like, on this earth? 299 00:27:10,003 --> 00:27:11,879 Sure, man. 300 00:27:12,047 --> 00:27:13,756 Every time l turn on Baywatch. 301 00:27:15,842 --> 00:27:17,593 [PHONE RlNGlNG] 302 00:27:17,802 --> 00:27:21,972 BLOND: Right, keep it moving. Pleasure Pizza. Okay. 303 00:27:22,140 --> 00:27:24,558 Hey, Blond, l'll be right back. Hold on, hold on. 304 00:27:24,726 --> 00:27:26,310 Hey, dude, where are you going now? 305 00:27:26,478 --> 00:27:28,562 l'll be right back. BLOND: You're killing me here! 306 00:27:28,730 --> 00:27:31,106 Hi, sir. Okay, here's the deal. 307 00:27:31,274 --> 00:27:34,401 l'm gonna train you for one thing and for one thing only: 308 00:27:34,569 --> 00:27:38,530 To survive that wave. All right? You want to know why? 309 00:27:38,698 --> 00:27:42,743 Because l don't want it on my conscience. That's it. 310 00:27:42,911 --> 00:27:44,995 No questions, no arguing, end of story. 311 00:27:45,163 --> 00:27:47,915 l teach you what you need to know, and it's over. 312 00:27:48,083 --> 00:27:49,416 You got it? 313 00:27:49,584 --> 00:27:50,959 Got it. Now, the reason... 314 00:27:51,127 --> 00:27:53,671 ...no one knows about this wave... 315 00:27:53,838 --> 00:27:56,340 ...is because it only happens on big northwest swells. 316 00:27:56,508 --> 00:27:59,593 And the window for those swells closes in 1 2 weeks. 317 00:27:59,761 --> 00:28:01,220 So you got 12 weeks. 318 00:28:02,555 --> 00:28:05,933 Meet me in my shed tomorrow morning, 6:30 a.m. 319 00:28:06,101 --> 00:28:08,102 Not 6:31 or 6:32. 320 00:28:13,858 --> 00:28:15,317 Yes! Yes! Yes! 321 00:28:23,535 --> 00:28:25,411 Hey. Ooh. 322 00:28:25,578 --> 00:28:28,539 Don't bother with that. We're not surfing. 323 00:28:31,376 --> 00:28:33,043 Paddleboards. 324 00:28:33,211 --> 00:28:35,045 All right. Unh. 325 00:28:35,213 --> 00:28:38,382 A few things we need to establish before we begin. 326 00:28:38,550 --> 00:28:40,259 First... 327 00:28:41,636 --> 00:28:45,431 ...thou shalt not ding Frosty's board or damage thy neighbor's car. 328 00:28:45,598 --> 00:28:46,974 Yes, sir. Sorry, sir. 329 00:28:47,142 --> 00:28:50,477 Second, this little, uh, program... 330 00:28:50,645 --> 00:28:53,772 ...is all about building what l like to call... 331 00:28:53,940 --> 00:28:59,069 ...the four pillars of a solid human foundation. Understand? 332 00:28:59,612 --> 00:29:00,904 Yes, sir. How could you? 333 00:29:01,072 --> 00:29:03,323 l haven't even told you what they are. 334 00:29:05,827 --> 00:29:07,411 Steady rhythm. 335 00:29:07,579 --> 00:29:09,079 Drive and glide. 336 00:29:19,340 --> 00:29:23,177 The four pillars of the human foundation... 337 00:29:23,344 --> 00:29:28,682 ...are the physical, the mental, the emotional and the spiritual. 338 00:29:28,850 --> 00:29:32,352 Though l admit to being a little bit wobbly in that department. 339 00:29:32,771 --> 00:29:34,521 JAY: l'm not sure l understand, sir. 340 00:29:36,316 --> 00:29:37,649 FROSTY: You know what a thesis is? 341 00:29:38,485 --> 00:29:39,693 Uh, an idea. Exactly. 342 00:29:39,861 --> 00:29:43,030 An idea which attempts to explain something. 343 00:29:43,198 --> 00:29:45,032 Lays it out to be proved or disproved. 344 00:29:45,200 --> 00:29:47,034 So here's our thesis: 345 00:29:47,202 --> 00:29:49,828 lt's 36 miles across the bay from Santa Cruz to Monterey. 346 00:29:50,705 --> 00:29:55,709 The day that you can paddle that far will be the day you're ready to surf Mavericks. 347 00:29:56,211 --> 00:29:57,586 Not a moment sooner. 348 00:29:57,754 --> 00:30:00,506 Frosty, that's impossible. Oh, more so than you know. 349 00:30:01,716 --> 00:30:05,552 So the physical will represent the sheer strength needed to make the paddle. 350 00:30:05,720 --> 00:30:08,263 So you're gonna be doing this from now on, every day... 351 00:30:08,431 --> 00:30:09,932 ...1 2 weeks. 352 00:30:10,099 --> 00:30:11,433 And the mental will be... 353 00:30:11,601 --> 00:30:13,852 ...tied to your own research. 354 00:30:14,020 --> 00:30:16,104 The calculation of the tides and swells... 355 00:30:16,272 --> 00:30:18,732 ...and, of course, your ability to navigate them all. 356 00:30:20,109 --> 00:30:24,404 So, Monterey equals Mavericks. Deal? 357 00:30:25,740 --> 00:30:27,324 Deal. Good. 358 00:30:27,826 --> 00:30:31,745 All l need is for your mom to sign me a permission slip accepting responsibility... 359 00:30:31,913 --> 00:30:34,206 ...for anything that's gonna happen along the way. 360 00:30:34,874 --> 00:30:36,250 Whoa. Frosty. 361 00:30:36,876 --> 00:30:39,419 Hey, Frosty, what if she doesn't sign it? 362 00:30:40,421 --> 00:30:44,424 Deep breaths, steady rhythm. Drive and glide. 363 00:30:44,592 --> 00:30:48,220 [MAZZY STAR'S "BLUE LlGHT" PLAYlNG SOFTLY OVER SPEAKERS] 364 00:30:51,057 --> 00:30:53,058 [SOPHlE WHlMPERlNG] 365 00:30:54,227 --> 00:30:56,395 Hey, Sophie. What's up, girl? 366 00:30:57,605 --> 00:30:58,772 Come here, Sophie. Shh. 367 00:30:58,940 --> 00:31:00,774 Sophie. What are you--? 368 00:31:00,942 --> 00:31:02,025 What are you doing here? 369 00:31:02,193 --> 00:31:03,235 My parents are asleep. 370 00:31:03,862 --> 00:31:06,780 Can you sign me a permission slip with my mom's signature on it? 371 00:31:06,948 --> 00:31:08,615 My handwriting blows. 372 00:31:08,825 --> 00:31:12,119 Heh. A permission slip? For what? 373 00:31:12,787 --> 00:31:17,165 Okay, l haven't told this to anyone, so you have to promise to keep it a secret. 374 00:31:17,500 --> 00:31:19,126 Okay, promise. 375 00:31:19,544 --> 00:31:24,715 lt's Mavericks. l mean, it's real. Maybe the biggest wave in the world. 376 00:31:24,883 --> 00:31:27,467 l've seen it with my own eyes, it's right up the coast. 377 00:31:28,094 --> 00:31:29,970 Frosty's gonna train me to surf it. 378 00:31:30,805 --> 00:31:32,806 Mavericks? No one believes that. 379 00:31:32,974 --> 00:31:35,309 l swear, it's like nothing you've ever seen before. 380 00:31:35,476 --> 00:31:37,144 And if l ask my mom for permission... 381 00:31:37,312 --> 00:31:41,398 ...it'll just give her an excuse to act like my mom for once and she'll probably say no. 382 00:31:44,152 --> 00:31:45,235 You look great. 383 00:31:46,321 --> 00:31:47,321 Thanks. 384 00:31:47,488 --> 00:31:49,156 l would've asked you at school, but l know you don't like... 385 00:31:49,324 --> 00:31:50,908 ...being seen in public with younger men, so.... 386 00:31:52,744 --> 00:31:54,161 [CHUCKLES] 387 00:32:02,670 --> 00:32:04,713 SONNY: Hey, Blondie. 388 00:32:10,929 --> 00:32:12,930 [SONNY & BLOND SPEAKlNG lNDlSTlNCTLY] 389 00:32:19,604 --> 00:32:20,687 BLOND: All right, fellas. 390 00:32:23,358 --> 00:32:25,192 Come on, race you to the pool. 391 00:32:26,569 --> 00:32:29,571 [THE OFFSPRlNG'S "COME OUT AND PLAY (KEEP 'EM SEPARATED)" PLAYlNG] 392 00:32:35,244 --> 00:32:36,370 You gotta keep 'em separated 393 00:32:36,537 --> 00:32:38,538 Ow! 394 00:32:44,087 --> 00:32:47,089 Yeah! Sick! 395 00:32:53,846 --> 00:32:55,013 Get some! 396 00:32:57,475 --> 00:32:59,476 BLOND: Whoo! Yeah! Aah! 397 00:32:59,644 --> 00:33:01,520 BLOND: Yeah, man, get up. 398 00:33:02,814 --> 00:33:03,855 Yeah. BELLS: Hey. 399 00:33:04,023 --> 00:33:06,400 Hollybra's having a party tonight. You clowns going? 400 00:33:06,567 --> 00:33:09,069 Yeah, sounds good to me. Jay? 401 00:33:09,237 --> 00:33:10,529 No, l got school and stuff. 402 00:33:10,697 --> 00:33:12,406 Dude. 403 00:33:12,740 --> 00:33:15,409 We all got school, dude. That's no excuse. Heard that. 404 00:33:15,576 --> 00:33:17,411 Haven't been to class all week. BLOND: Yeah. 405 00:33:17,578 --> 00:33:20,664 The dude actually wonders why he's a second-year sophomore! 406 00:33:22,417 --> 00:33:24,835 So what kind of stuff you got going? 407 00:33:25,795 --> 00:33:28,088 Just trying to make sense of everything. 408 00:33:29,048 --> 00:33:30,090 We're in high school, dude. 409 00:33:30,258 --> 00:33:33,010 Man, you disrespecting me? Take him out 410 00:33:33,177 --> 00:33:35,345 You gotta keep 'em separated 411 00:33:36,431 --> 00:33:38,098 Hey, Frosty. 412 00:33:38,808 --> 00:33:40,267 Hey. 413 00:33:43,980 --> 00:33:45,814 lt's 20 to 4. 414 00:33:45,982 --> 00:33:47,774 You told me to be here at 4. 415 00:33:47,942 --> 00:33:49,109 Exactly. 416 00:33:50,903 --> 00:33:51,945 JAY: So, we ready to go? 417 00:33:52,113 --> 00:33:53,572 Does it look like it? 418 00:33:56,284 --> 00:33:59,578 Tell you what, we'll be ready... 419 00:33:59,746 --> 00:34:01,621 ...when you clean up that driveway. 420 00:34:01,789 --> 00:34:04,791 That's what you get for being 20 minutes early. 421 00:34:14,635 --> 00:34:16,553 FROSTY: Deep breaths. 422 00:34:16,721 --> 00:34:19,306 You got to stretch out those lungs. 423 00:34:20,391 --> 00:34:23,393 A wave like Mavericks will hold you down for minutes at a time... 424 00:34:23,561 --> 00:34:25,103 ...while it pounds you to a pulp. 425 00:34:25,271 --> 00:34:26,730 lf you can't hold your breath... 426 00:34:26,898 --> 00:34:29,566 ...for at least four minutes under normal circumstances... 427 00:34:29,734 --> 00:34:32,736 ...then you may as well not even paddle out. 428 00:34:42,997 --> 00:34:43,997 [GASPS] 429 00:34:44,165 --> 00:34:46,166 How long was that? 430 00:34:48,836 --> 00:34:51,838 You know what, l'm not even gonna acknowledge that just happened. 431 00:35:12,318 --> 00:35:13,568 FROSTY: Hey. 432 00:35:15,029 --> 00:35:16,613 Where'd you find that? 433 00:35:18,699 --> 00:35:21,409 ln the dresser that you moved into the baby's room. 434 00:35:22,870 --> 00:35:27,124 Hm. God, you're so beautiful. 435 00:35:27,875 --> 00:35:29,793 Mm. 436 00:35:37,426 --> 00:35:41,221 Look, um, l know that surfing is... 437 00:35:41,389 --> 00:35:44,724 ...your passion and your life, your escape. 438 00:35:44,892 --> 00:35:46,476 l get it. 439 00:35:48,229 --> 00:35:50,230 But l need you to make me a promise. 440 00:35:51,440 --> 00:35:53,942 And l'm serious this time. 441 00:35:58,114 --> 00:36:00,907 That you're not gonna put the rush of a 30-foot drop... 442 00:36:01,075 --> 00:36:03,285 ...in front of the future of your two children. 443 00:36:03,452 --> 00:36:05,453 [SlGHS] 444 00:36:12,962 --> 00:36:14,754 l promise. 445 00:36:16,215 --> 00:36:19,092 God, you're a good man. 446 00:36:20,928 --> 00:36:22,762 Okay. 447 00:36:23,264 --> 00:36:24,431 Jay's waiting for you. 448 00:36:33,149 --> 00:36:34,441 Mom! 449 00:36:34,609 --> 00:36:36,067 Mom, you got to get up right now! 450 00:36:36,235 --> 00:36:37,277 You got a 6:00 shift! 451 00:36:37,445 --> 00:36:40,822 You're gonna lose your job again! Mom! 452 00:36:40,990 --> 00:36:42,574 Oh, no. 453 00:36:44,410 --> 00:36:46,786 Mom, get up! Come on! l'm getting up! 454 00:36:50,917 --> 00:36:52,918 [THUNDER RUMBLlNG] 455 00:37:20,821 --> 00:37:21,905 Hey. 456 00:37:24,158 --> 00:37:27,160 You're 1 1 minutes late. Yeah, sorry, Frosty. You know, my mom-- 457 00:37:27,328 --> 00:37:29,329 She had to write my permission slip, so.... 458 00:37:37,505 --> 00:37:39,965 Your mother's got nice handwriting. 459 00:37:41,342 --> 00:37:42,759 She take much convincing? 460 00:37:45,304 --> 00:37:46,346 No. 461 00:37:46,889 --> 00:37:48,556 Not much. 462 00:37:49,558 --> 00:37:50,600 Good. 463 00:37:58,484 --> 00:37:59,734 That your breakfast? 464 00:38:00,069 --> 00:38:01,361 Hm? Yeah. 465 00:38:04,907 --> 00:38:08,410 You want to be an athlete, you got to eat like one. Take this. 466 00:38:10,246 --> 00:38:13,123 Go on, take it. You're gonna need it more than me. 467 00:38:14,583 --> 00:38:15,709 JAY: Thanks. 468 00:38:15,876 --> 00:38:17,877 MAN [ON RADlO]: Winds out of the south, southeast... 469 00:38:18,045 --> 00:38:20,213 ...at 1 5 knots, gusting to 20 knots. 470 00:38:20,381 --> 00:38:22,382 That's the Weather Radio, huh? 471 00:38:22,550 --> 00:38:24,050 You use it to follow big surf? 472 00:38:24,218 --> 00:38:26,011 Kind of like you timing the waves. 473 00:38:26,178 --> 00:38:28,054 Only this thing's a little more accurate. 474 00:38:28,472 --> 00:38:29,681 [CHUCKLES] 475 00:38:39,525 --> 00:38:41,234 There's no way to paddle out there... 476 00:38:41,402 --> 00:38:43,028 ...especially with long boards. 477 00:38:43,195 --> 00:38:45,864 Oh, there's a way, all right. 478 00:38:46,032 --> 00:38:49,492 So let's see if you're worth your salt, chief. 479 00:39:37,750 --> 00:39:39,626 Okay, back to baking. 480 00:39:41,003 --> 00:39:42,837 Let's go. 481 00:39:43,005 --> 00:39:46,508 So you made it all of 30 yards. 482 00:39:46,675 --> 00:39:49,177 lf you want to get out there, you got to make it... 483 00:39:49,345 --> 00:39:51,304 ...through more than half a mile of this... 484 00:39:51,472 --> 00:39:53,306 ...just to get in position of Mavericks. 485 00:39:53,474 --> 00:39:57,143 So you've got to conserve all the energy you've got. 486 00:39:57,978 --> 00:39:59,896 All right. 487 00:40:00,064 --> 00:40:02,315 Now let's take a look at what you missed. 488 00:40:03,734 --> 00:40:05,819 Now, for some reason, you decided... 489 00:40:05,986 --> 00:40:09,322 ...to paddle straight out into that mess. 490 00:40:09,490 --> 00:40:12,325 Now, take a look at the rocks over there. 491 00:40:12,827 --> 00:40:15,120 See what's happening with the current? 492 00:40:16,497 --> 00:40:17,705 lt's got nowhere to go. 493 00:40:17,873 --> 00:40:18,998 Nowhere to go but where? 494 00:40:22,294 --> 00:40:24,170 Back out? Exactly, back out. 495 00:40:24,338 --> 00:40:25,672 To a waterman... 496 00:40:27,550 --> 00:40:29,509 ...it's a conveyor belt. 497 00:40:29,677 --> 00:40:31,344 Watch this. 498 00:40:59,665 --> 00:41:01,040 FROSTY: So today's lesson... 499 00:41:01,208 --> 00:41:03,751 ...was about the power of observation. 500 00:41:03,919 --> 00:41:06,379 Simple fact is you got two choices. 501 00:41:06,547 --> 00:41:08,298 You can fight things head-on... 502 00:41:08,466 --> 00:41:11,259 ...or you can observe the laws of nature. 503 00:41:11,427 --> 00:41:13,553 Because if you look hard enough... 504 00:41:13,721 --> 00:41:15,597 ...there's always a way through it. 505 00:41:15,764 --> 00:41:18,933 Make sense? Yes, sir. 506 00:41:19,101 --> 00:41:20,310 Good man. 507 00:41:20,478 --> 00:41:23,229 Because you're going to write me an essay about it. 508 00:41:23,397 --> 00:41:27,233 Three pages, typewritten, single-space. 509 00:41:27,401 --> 00:41:31,070 Devil's in the details of whatever you observe. 510 00:41:31,238 --> 00:41:34,449 Time to start building your mental pillar, chief. 511 00:41:41,832 --> 00:41:43,958 JAY: Hey, Kimmy. 512 00:41:44,835 --> 00:41:47,212 Oh, my gosh! Are you okay? 513 00:41:47,379 --> 00:41:48,421 Yeah. 514 00:41:48,589 --> 00:41:50,048 Oh, man. 515 00:41:50,216 --> 00:41:53,843 What are you doing? Uh, l just got off work. 516 00:41:54,011 --> 00:41:55,094 You? 517 00:41:55,262 --> 00:41:57,347 Oh, um, l was just trying to go for a swim... 518 00:41:57,515 --> 00:41:59,474 ...but l guess they close early on Sundays. 519 00:41:59,642 --> 00:42:01,267 You want to go swimming at night... 520 00:42:01,435 --> 00:42:03,102 ...you got to use the back entrance. 521 00:42:03,437 --> 00:42:04,479 [GRUNTlNG] 522 00:42:04,647 --> 00:42:06,564 Hey, this isn't so bad. 523 00:42:11,737 --> 00:42:15,740 Okay, so how do we get down? 524 00:42:16,283 --> 00:42:17,909 JAY: There's only one way l know of. 525 00:42:18,619 --> 00:42:21,037 What? No. Are you serious? 526 00:42:21,205 --> 00:42:22,580 No. 527 00:42:22,748 --> 00:42:24,165 Jay. BLOND: Hey. 528 00:42:24,917 --> 00:42:28,169 l saw your bike. You didn't tell me. 529 00:42:30,256 --> 00:42:32,257 So she know the rules? 530 00:42:32,424 --> 00:42:33,424 No. 531 00:42:33,592 --> 00:42:35,009 Clear it. Clear it. Excuse me. 532 00:42:35,177 --> 00:42:36,761 lt's kind of like figure skating. 533 00:42:36,929 --> 00:42:38,680 Points based on a combination... 534 00:42:38,847 --> 00:42:41,641 ...of style, execution and difficulty. 535 00:42:41,809 --> 00:42:45,144 For example, l'm going to start with a standing one and a half. 536 00:42:45,312 --> 00:42:49,148 High, l repeat, high level of difficulty. 537 00:42:49,984 --> 00:42:51,985 Because l got to clear the pool deck. 538 00:42:52,152 --> 00:42:55,655 Hit that, you're immediately DQ'd. 539 00:42:55,823 --> 00:42:57,782 No. Wait, wait, wait. You guys aren't serious. 540 00:42:57,950 --> 00:42:59,450 Really? No! 541 00:42:59,618 --> 00:43:02,287 [MATTHEW SWEET'S "GlRLFRlEND" PLAYlNG] 542 00:43:03,330 --> 00:43:04,330 Oh.... Oh! 543 00:43:06,125 --> 00:43:07,166 And the judges say.... 544 00:43:07,334 --> 00:43:08,835 KlM: Oh, my gosh. JAY: Nice one, Blondie. 545 00:43:09,003 --> 00:43:12,088 The only thing that can top that is a reverse back tuck. 546 00:43:12,256 --> 00:43:14,173 Because of the blind entry. KlM: No. 547 00:43:14,341 --> 00:43:16,843 l can't watch this. You have to. 548 00:43:17,011 --> 00:43:18,219 You're the only judge. 549 00:43:19,346 --> 00:43:20,763 No, Jay! Whoo! 550 00:43:20,931 --> 00:43:23,349 I wanna love somebody 551 00:43:23,517 --> 00:43:24,684 [BOTH CHEERlNG] 552 00:43:24,852 --> 00:43:26,603 I hear you need somebody to love 553 00:43:26,770 --> 00:43:28,271 Whoo! 554 00:43:28,522 --> 00:43:30,189 Look at this! Yeah! 555 00:43:30,357 --> 00:43:32,025 [WHOOPlNG] 556 00:43:32,192 --> 00:43:35,862 I hear you're looking for someone to love 557 00:43:36,030 --> 00:43:39,574 And the judge turned competitor ties it with Moriarity. 558 00:43:39,742 --> 00:43:41,242 No. JAY: No, no, no! 559 00:43:41,410 --> 00:43:43,202 To see who the real champion will be... 560 00:43:43,370 --> 00:43:46,456 ...we're down to a final sprint. Whoo! 561 00:43:46,832 --> 00:43:50,835 Back in the arms of a girlfriend 562 00:43:53,964 --> 00:43:56,799 I didn't know nobody 563 00:43:58,218 --> 00:44:01,220 And then I saw you coming my way 564 00:44:01,388 --> 00:44:03,848 Ooh! Hey, you cheater! 565 00:44:04,016 --> 00:44:05,058 Ooh. You are disqualified. 566 00:44:05,225 --> 00:44:06,225 Why? 567 00:44:06,393 --> 00:44:07,727 KlM: Because you pulled my ankle! 568 00:44:07,895 --> 00:44:09,395 l would have won that! 569 00:44:09,563 --> 00:44:10,772 Whatever. 570 00:44:13,776 --> 00:44:15,777 [SPEAKlNG lNDlSTlNCTLY] 571 00:44:15,944 --> 00:44:16,986 Forty. 572 00:44:19,823 --> 00:44:20,907 What are you doing? 573 00:44:21,075 --> 00:44:24,410 Four pillars of a solid human foundation. 574 00:44:24,578 --> 00:44:26,746 Fifty. Mm-hm. 575 00:44:26,914 --> 00:44:28,581 l made you coffee, your clothes are in the dryer. 576 00:44:28,749 --> 00:44:31,376 [BELL RlNGlNG] 577 00:44:38,759 --> 00:44:39,926 l'm swallowing water. 578 00:44:40,094 --> 00:44:41,427 FROSTY: Well, you better grow gills. 579 00:44:42,429 --> 00:44:43,888 You got two more minutes. 580 00:44:52,815 --> 00:44:54,482 BELLS: Yo, dude! 581 00:44:59,613 --> 00:45:00,947 [GASPS] 582 00:45:05,577 --> 00:45:07,578 [PEOPLE CHATTERlNG] 583 00:45:29,643 --> 00:45:31,644 [KNOCKlNG ON DOOR] 584 00:45:37,151 --> 00:45:38,609 Three pages. 585 00:45:39,611 --> 00:45:41,070 Congratulations. 586 00:45:42,072 --> 00:45:43,906 You eaten? 587 00:45:46,243 --> 00:45:48,786 [BABY COOlNG] 588 00:45:59,089 --> 00:46:00,673 lt's good. 589 00:46:11,268 --> 00:46:13,311 Oh. Thank you. 590 00:46:13,479 --> 00:46:15,062 BRENDA: You're welcome. 591 00:46:16,482 --> 00:46:19,150 ls this some sort of a joke? 592 00:46:21,945 --> 00:46:23,112 No, sir. 593 00:46:23,280 --> 00:46:24,822 FROSTY: So l ask you to write an essay... 594 00:46:24,990 --> 00:46:27,450 ...and you observe a girl. 595 00:46:29,912 --> 00:46:34,373 You never told me what to observe. FROSTY: Oh, come on, Jay. Really? 596 00:46:34,541 --> 00:46:38,795 l'm training you to survive Mavericks, not some, uh... 597 00:46:38,962 --> 00:46:40,838 ...silly teen crush. Roque, go to bed. 598 00:46:42,925 --> 00:46:44,967 Good night, Daddy. 599 00:46:47,262 --> 00:46:49,096 l just thought-- FROSTY: What did you think? 600 00:46:49,264 --> 00:46:50,932 What did you think, Jay? 601 00:46:54,353 --> 00:46:56,896 Nothing. lf you didn't think, you're wasting my time. 602 00:46:57,064 --> 00:46:58,064 Frosty. Okay? 603 00:46:58,232 --> 00:47:00,733 And that's not something l got a lot of these days. 604 00:47:00,901 --> 00:47:02,610 You know what? lt's not your fault. 605 00:47:02,778 --> 00:47:05,071 You're 1 5. You're just a kid. 606 00:47:05,280 --> 00:47:08,241 Jay, um, will you excuse us for a moment? 607 00:47:11,203 --> 00:47:12,245 [FROSTY SlGHS] 608 00:47:12,412 --> 00:47:16,749 For heaven's sake, Frosty, not everyone sees the world through your eyes. 609 00:47:16,917 --> 00:47:20,044 Okay? He chose to examine something that meant the world to him. 610 00:47:20,963 --> 00:47:22,421 Something personal... 611 00:47:22,589 --> 00:47:25,758 ...which he opened up and shared with you, entrusted... 612 00:47:25,926 --> 00:47:27,093 ...to you. 613 00:47:27,261 --> 00:47:29,428 Brenda, l'm not concerned with his feelings. 614 00:47:29,596 --> 00:47:32,265 l'm concerned with the objective. 615 00:47:32,432 --> 00:47:35,226 The point of writing an essay is to put your thoughts... 616 00:47:35,394 --> 00:47:37,937 ...down on paper and see the gaps and reflect. 617 00:47:38,105 --> 00:47:40,189 And did he accomplish that or not? 618 00:47:42,276 --> 00:47:43,943 [SlGHS] 619 00:47:44,695 --> 00:47:46,946 l don't know. l-- 620 00:47:48,615 --> 00:47:51,450 My old man, he didn't even-- Shh, shh, shh. 621 00:47:52,786 --> 00:47:54,912 [BRENDA SlGHS] 622 00:47:58,333 --> 00:47:59,959 lt just takes patience. 623 00:48:00,127 --> 00:48:02,420 You owe yourself that much. 624 00:48:03,130 --> 00:48:04,797 Okay? 625 00:48:05,507 --> 00:48:07,049 Okay. 626 00:48:08,385 --> 00:48:10,011 l don't hear Lake. 627 00:48:16,351 --> 00:48:17,852 Hey. 628 00:48:18,020 --> 00:48:20,813 He just needed to be held, l think. 629 00:48:20,981 --> 00:48:23,316 Don't we all sometimes? 630 00:48:30,032 --> 00:48:31,699 All right, chief, sit down. 631 00:48:34,620 --> 00:48:38,831 From now on, let's stick to the subject at hand. 632 00:48:38,999 --> 00:48:42,209 First off, l want you to rewrite this essay... 633 00:48:43,170 --> 00:48:45,338 ...but you can observe an actual break. 634 00:48:45,505 --> 00:48:46,797 As in surf break. 635 00:48:47,049 --> 00:48:49,342 TEACHER: Mr. Lopez. LOPEZ: Here. 636 00:48:49,509 --> 00:48:51,510 TEACHER: Miss Mirkin. MlRKlN: Here. 637 00:48:51,678 --> 00:48:53,095 TEACHER: Mr. Moriarity. 638 00:48:55,307 --> 00:48:56,974 Mr. Moriarity. 639 00:49:12,199 --> 00:49:15,826 JAY: Mavericks. November 10th, 9:1 3 a.m. 640 00:49:15,994 --> 00:49:18,037 Swell westerly, approximately 1 2 feet... 641 00:49:18,205 --> 00:49:20,164 ...at 1 6-second intervals... 642 00:49:21,917 --> 00:49:24,961 ...25- to 30-foot faces. 643 00:49:26,838 --> 00:49:29,465 One of Frosty's crew heading out solo. 644 00:49:30,884 --> 00:49:34,762 Looking like the best way out is to ride the current inside the rocks. 645 00:49:34,930 --> 00:49:39,350 Wind remains side-shore, maybe 1 0 knots. 646 00:49:41,228 --> 00:49:44,105 Set suddenly shifting with no warning. 647 00:49:45,232 --> 00:49:48,567 Large and northerly, at least double the size. 648 00:50:40,287 --> 00:50:41,746 Come on, come on. 649 00:50:53,300 --> 00:50:54,925 [PANTlNG] 650 00:51:35,967 --> 00:51:38,511 Hey, man. Hey, Brenda. 651 00:51:38,678 --> 00:51:40,346 How's it going? lt's good. 652 00:51:40,514 --> 00:51:43,099 Yeah? l'm curious to hear how it is from the one... 653 00:51:43,266 --> 00:51:44,809 ...on the other end of the whip. 654 00:51:44,976 --> 00:51:47,144 You know, he's keeping me on my toes. 655 00:51:47,312 --> 00:51:48,771 Not being too hard on you, is he? 656 00:51:48,939 --> 00:51:51,857 No. No, l feel like it's the other way around, maybe. 657 00:51:52,984 --> 00:51:54,318 How so? 658 00:51:55,362 --> 00:51:59,240 Sometimes, when you've been through a lot in life... 659 00:52:00,242 --> 00:52:02,368 ...you know, sometimes you're hard on yourself. 660 00:52:03,995 --> 00:52:06,455 That's the way it is with my mom, at least, you know? 661 00:52:07,791 --> 00:52:09,917 You sure you're only in high school? 662 00:52:10,544 --> 00:52:12,044 JAY: Yeah. 663 00:52:13,547 --> 00:52:14,713 Bye. 664 00:52:15,841 --> 00:52:18,342 GlRL: See you. BOY: See you guys. Take it easy. 665 00:52:28,395 --> 00:52:30,896 Looks like your girlfriend is keeping tabs on you. 666 00:52:31,064 --> 00:52:32,898 BOY 1 : Ha, ha. BOY 2: Yo, who's that? 667 00:52:33,066 --> 00:52:35,234 BLOND: Oh, he's cool. All right, later. 668 00:52:40,657 --> 00:52:42,074 What's this? 669 00:52:42,242 --> 00:52:45,035 You my keeper all of a sudden? Heh. 670 00:52:45,203 --> 00:52:48,372 You having this conversation with me or your conscience, Blond? 671 00:52:50,333 --> 00:52:53,002 l just wanted to tell you, it's your turn to lock up. 672 00:52:53,253 --> 00:52:55,254 [KEYS JlNGLE] 673 00:53:32,584 --> 00:53:34,627 Jay? 674 00:53:39,925 --> 00:53:41,926 [KNOCKlNG ON DOOR] 675 00:53:49,851 --> 00:53:52,853 Aah! Oh, my God. 1 :46. 676 00:53:53,021 --> 00:53:55,147 Almost two full minutes. 677 00:53:59,861 --> 00:54:00,903 [KNOCKlNG ON DOOR] 678 00:54:01,071 --> 00:54:02,321 CHRlSTY: Jay, can l talk to you? 679 00:54:02,489 --> 00:54:03,822 Uh, hold on. 680 00:54:10,163 --> 00:54:11,330 Come in. 681 00:54:11,790 --> 00:54:12,831 Hey. Hey. 682 00:54:12,999 --> 00:54:15,709 Hey, your uniform is, um.... lt's in the dryer. 683 00:54:15,877 --> 00:54:18,671 Oh. Thank you. Thanks. Okay. 684 00:54:18,838 --> 00:54:21,924 Um, listen, l was wondering if l could borrow $1 5. 685 00:54:22,509 --> 00:54:24,927 l got a parking ticket, and... 686 00:54:25,095 --> 00:54:27,680 ...you know, if you don't pay them, it's.... 687 00:54:30,100 --> 00:54:31,141 Yeah. 688 00:54:40,151 --> 00:54:41,944 CHRlSTY: l'm gonna pay you back. 689 00:54:43,446 --> 00:54:44,863 l promise. 690 00:54:46,449 --> 00:54:47,741 Thanks. 691 00:55:12,309 --> 00:55:14,810 Hey. You heading out, Blond? 692 00:55:15,520 --> 00:55:16,562 Like you care. 693 00:55:17,230 --> 00:55:18,522 Sonny! 694 00:55:19,357 --> 00:55:20,399 Outside! 695 00:55:28,450 --> 00:55:30,451 Ah! 696 00:55:30,660 --> 00:55:32,703 [BUTTHOLE SURFERS' "PEPPER" PLAYlNG] 697 00:55:32,871 --> 00:55:34,455 [CHUCKLlNG] 698 00:55:34,956 --> 00:55:36,582 Boy can get it done. 699 00:55:39,919 --> 00:55:43,088 lf that's what you call snaking someone's wave, man, you're right. 700 00:55:44,758 --> 00:55:47,843 Guess we can't all be as perfect as you, can we, Jay? 701 00:55:48,011 --> 00:55:50,262 Blond, you're better than that. 702 00:55:51,473 --> 00:55:53,891 All right? Let's go get some. 703 00:56:03,276 --> 00:56:05,694 Mikey got with Sharon Sharon got Cherise 704 00:56:05,862 --> 00:56:09,073 She was sharin' Sharon's outlook On the topic of disease 705 00:56:09,240 --> 00:56:11,742 Mikey had a facial scar And Bobby was a racist 706 00:56:11,910 --> 00:56:15,120 They were all in love with dying They were doing it in Texas 707 00:56:15,288 --> 00:56:18,082 All in love with dying They were drinking from a fountain 708 00:56:18,249 --> 00:56:21,210 That was pouring like an avalanche Coming down the mountain 709 00:56:21,378 --> 00:56:27,132 I don't mind the sun sometimes The images it shows 710 00:56:27,300 --> 00:56:32,971 I can taste you on my lips And smell you in my clothes 711 00:56:33,139 --> 00:56:38,977 Cinnamon and sugary And softly spoken lies 712 00:56:39,145 --> 00:56:45,275 You never know just how to look Through other people's eyes 713 00:57:03,420 --> 00:57:08,757 I don't mind the sun sometimes The images it shows 714 00:57:09,175 --> 00:57:15,013 I can taste you on my lips And smell you in my clothes 715 00:57:15,181 --> 00:57:21,019 Cinnamon and sugary And softly spoken lies 716 00:57:21,187 --> 00:57:27,317 You never know just how you look Through other people's eyes 717 00:58:18,077 --> 00:58:19,077 Whoo! 718 00:58:19,245 --> 00:58:20,746 Yeah! 719 00:58:38,431 --> 00:58:40,432 [SAW WHlRRlNG] 720 00:58:51,444 --> 00:58:52,653 Hey. 721 00:58:58,576 --> 00:59:00,077 You're back early. 722 00:59:00,453 --> 00:59:01,745 What you doing? 723 00:59:02,288 --> 00:59:05,123 You know, it's, uh-- He wanted to surprise you. 724 00:59:10,880 --> 00:59:13,006 Well, he succeeded. 725 00:59:15,385 --> 00:59:16,593 Carry on. 726 00:59:16,803 --> 00:59:17,844 [GlRL SPEAKlNG lNDlSTlNCTLY] 727 00:59:18,012 --> 00:59:19,638 BLOND: You're the worst! You're the worst! 728 00:59:19,806 --> 00:59:24,351 Hey, did you see that big outside set? lt was firing today! 729 00:59:26,187 --> 00:59:27,312 [GRUNTS] 730 00:59:28,898 --> 00:59:30,440 BLOND: Careful, man. He's wasted. 731 00:59:30,608 --> 00:59:32,651 SONNY: Uh, yeah, let me get a, um-- 732 00:59:32,819 --> 00:59:35,112 A hot dog, extra chili. 733 00:59:35,280 --> 00:59:38,115 Ahem. No, check that. Make it a jelly donut. 734 00:59:38,283 --> 00:59:40,450 All we got is pizza, bro. 735 00:59:41,411 --> 00:59:44,705 Hey, little trash... 736 00:59:44,872 --> 00:59:47,291 ...why are you always smiling all the time, huh? 737 00:59:47,458 --> 00:59:48,834 Oh, there you go again. 738 00:59:49,002 --> 00:59:51,503 You see, when you smile, you look like a little wuss. 739 00:59:51,671 --> 00:59:54,381 When you look like a little wuss, you don't get no respect. 740 00:59:55,216 --> 00:59:56,675 BLOND: Sure got it today. 741 00:59:58,511 --> 01:00:01,513 Hey! Hey! Hey, get off! 742 01:00:01,681 --> 01:00:03,682 [ALL GRUNTlNG] 743 01:00:04,767 --> 01:00:07,519 Come on! Get off me, man! SONNY: You throw a punch... 744 01:00:07,687 --> 01:00:10,522 ...you better pray l don't make it back up, you little punk. 745 01:00:11,357 --> 01:00:14,526 Yeah, you think you're better than the rest of us, don't you? 746 01:00:14,694 --> 01:00:17,613 l see you paddling out there every morning with Frosty. 747 01:00:17,947 --> 01:00:19,656 BOY: Come on, man, let's get out of here. 748 01:00:19,824 --> 01:00:22,826 Paddle, paddle, paddle, little grom. Let's go, bro. 749 01:00:22,994 --> 01:00:24,661 Let's get out of here. 750 01:00:30,877 --> 01:00:33,003 Looks like you dropped something. 751 01:00:46,726 --> 01:00:48,226 FROSTY: l read your essay. 752 01:00:49,270 --> 01:00:50,395 What do you think? 753 01:00:50,605 --> 01:00:52,981 l think that's what l expected from you all along. 754 01:00:57,111 --> 01:00:58,362 You done good, chief. 755 01:01:03,076 --> 01:01:04,409 FROSTY: And now the lion sleeps. 756 01:01:05,912 --> 01:01:08,580 The wave is gonna break behind us where the reef falls... 757 01:01:08,748 --> 01:01:11,541 ...from about 40 feet to about 1 500 feet. 758 01:01:11,709 --> 01:01:14,211 Here's what you want to avoid: Firstly... 759 01:01:14,379 --> 01:01:15,712 ...see those rocks over there? 760 01:01:15,880 --> 01:01:17,130 They call that the Boneyard. 761 01:01:17,298 --> 01:01:19,966 Whatever you do, do not let the current push you in there. 762 01:01:20,134 --> 01:01:21,927 lt'll smash you to pieces. 763 01:01:23,471 --> 01:01:26,515 So where do you set? What you got to do is triangulate. 764 01:01:27,558 --> 01:01:30,977 You draw a line between yourself and that dish... 765 01:01:31,145 --> 01:01:33,980 ...and that mushroom rock over there. 766 01:01:34,148 --> 01:01:37,401 The biggest treachery of all is what lies underneath. 767 01:01:47,704 --> 01:01:49,162 FROSTY: Most waves break on reefs... 768 01:01:49,330 --> 01:01:52,290 ...less than 20 feet beneath the surface. 769 01:01:53,459 --> 01:01:55,085 Depth is doubled out here. 770 01:01:57,296 --> 01:02:00,298 Meaning, when it's firing, you got twice the water mass... 771 01:02:00,466 --> 01:02:01,883 ...twice the wave energy... 772 01:02:02,051 --> 01:02:06,012 ...and twice the IikeIihood of drowning. 773 01:02:51,809 --> 01:02:53,477 [JAY GASPS THEN COUGHS] 774 01:02:53,644 --> 01:02:56,229 Don't worry. l got your back, kid. 775 01:03:02,653 --> 01:03:04,488 What happened? What do you mean? 776 01:03:04,655 --> 01:03:06,364 l just saw a 1 5-foot shark. 777 01:03:06,532 --> 01:03:10,535 l'm sure it scared the piss out of you, but that wasn't what l asked. Why'd you panic? 778 01:03:13,039 --> 01:03:16,082 Just fear, l guess. All right, well, one thing you got to know... 779 01:03:16,250 --> 01:03:19,252 ...fear and panic are two separate emotions. 780 01:03:19,420 --> 01:03:22,297 Fear is healthy, panic is deadly. 781 01:03:22,673 --> 01:03:24,883 Because when this place is firing... 782 01:03:25,051 --> 01:03:27,886 ...and l'm talking about 30-, 40-foot waves... 783 01:03:28,054 --> 01:03:32,599 ...it's all about fear. But you panic out there, like you just did... 784 01:03:32,767 --> 01:03:33,809 ...you die. 785 01:03:34,602 --> 01:03:38,146 Well, if you're scared to death, how do you not panic? 786 01:03:38,314 --> 01:03:42,234 By identifying the fear and what it is you're afraid of. 787 01:03:42,401 --> 01:03:44,027 Not just out there, but in life. 788 01:03:46,239 --> 01:03:47,989 Welcome to your next essay. 789 01:04:03,756 --> 01:04:06,800 TEACHER: All right, guys, listen up. Uh, homework assignment, okay? 790 01:04:06,968 --> 01:04:09,427 Put your pencils down. Don't write until l'm done. 791 01:04:09,929 --> 01:04:12,264 Gotta listen first, okay? Here we go. 792 01:04:12,890 --> 01:04:15,183 Name the four sophila of arthropods. 793 01:04:15,351 --> 01:04:18,562 Which sophila is thought to be the eldest? 794 01:04:18,729 --> 01:04:22,107 Which sophila is thought to be the eldest? Number one. 795 01:04:22,275 --> 01:04:26,736 Number two: Compare complete and incomplete metamor-- 796 01:04:29,574 --> 01:04:30,615 There he goes again. 797 01:04:30,783 --> 01:04:32,450 [ALL LAUGH] 798 01:04:36,038 --> 01:04:38,957 [PEOPLE CHATTERlNG] 799 01:04:43,421 --> 01:04:44,629 KlM: Hey. Hey. 800 01:04:45,965 --> 01:04:47,757 l was hoping l'd see you here. 801 01:04:48,467 --> 01:04:51,803 Um, we're doing a bonfire down at the cove. 802 01:04:51,971 --> 01:04:56,099 You want to stop by after work? Oh, thanks. You know, but l got to.... 803 01:04:56,267 --> 01:04:58,226 BOY: Where's the action? 804 01:04:58,394 --> 01:05:00,312 l want to party! 805 01:05:00,980 --> 01:05:02,814 [BOTH CHUCKLE] 806 01:05:04,400 --> 01:05:07,485 You know, come on. l got a better idea. 807 01:05:07,653 --> 01:05:10,697 Yeah, okay, that's $14.56. 808 01:05:12,950 --> 01:05:16,745 Dude, no. What? JAY: l'll owe you forever, Blond. 809 01:05:16,913 --> 01:05:18,788 What's up? JAY: l promise. 810 01:05:21,918 --> 01:05:25,837 Oh, hey. Dude, you dropped your, uh.... 811 01:05:41,646 --> 01:05:43,146 [DOOR CLOSES] 812 01:05:44,065 --> 01:05:46,775 Hey. You're home. 813 01:05:46,943 --> 01:05:49,819 Yeah, l finished up early, so l thought l'd get back. 814 01:05:50,446 --> 01:05:54,574 ls Roque in her room? Yeah, she's getting ready for bed. 815 01:05:55,368 --> 01:05:57,452 What's in the bag? Oh. 816 01:05:58,204 --> 01:06:00,830 My old man used to read to me as a kid... 817 01:06:00,998 --> 01:06:03,124 ...and l thought... 818 01:06:03,292 --> 01:06:04,334 ...you know, maybe... 819 01:06:05,336 --> 01:06:08,213 ...maybe l would start reading to Roque. 820 01:06:09,382 --> 01:06:10,882 Okay. 821 01:06:17,014 --> 01:06:18,014 [KNOCKlNG ON DOOR] 822 01:06:18,182 --> 01:06:19,432 Roque? 823 01:06:19,600 --> 01:06:21,017 ROQUE: Hi, Daddy. 824 01:06:21,978 --> 01:06:24,604 l take it this isn't your first time here. 825 01:06:24,772 --> 01:06:27,107 lt's my first time with anyone else. 826 01:06:37,702 --> 01:06:39,160 JAY: Look, you see that? 827 01:06:39,328 --> 01:06:42,163 That's the seventh brightest star in the sky, Rigel. 828 01:06:42,581 --> 01:06:45,750 Right above it, on either side, that's Betelgeuse and Bellatrix. 829 01:06:45,918 --> 01:06:47,377 lt's the shoulders of Orion. 830 01:06:51,007 --> 01:06:52,632 What? Ha, ha. 831 01:06:52,800 --> 01:06:55,760 How'd you know that? l learned it from my dad. 832 01:06:56,971 --> 01:06:58,847 He started teaching me about the stars... 833 01:06:59,015 --> 01:07:01,808 ...when l was maybe, like, 3 or 4. 834 01:07:01,976 --> 01:07:04,769 There are 88 constellations... 835 01:07:04,937 --> 01:07:07,605 ...but l never got a chance to learn them all. 836 01:07:09,025 --> 01:07:11,693 [MAZZY STAR'S "FADE lNTO YOU" PLAYlNG] 837 01:07:15,448 --> 01:07:17,115 Come on. 838 01:07:17,283 --> 01:07:18,783 Follow me. 839 01:07:20,494 --> 01:07:25,457 Fade into you 840 01:07:27,960 --> 01:07:29,377 KlM: Whoa! 841 01:07:29,545 --> 01:07:32,714 Strange you never knew 842 01:07:32,882 --> 01:07:35,300 JAY: Paddle, paddle, paddle! Come on, Kimmy! 843 01:07:35,760 --> 01:07:37,010 KlM: Yeah! 844 01:07:37,803 --> 01:07:39,637 Kimmy, give me your hand. Get over here. 845 01:07:39,805 --> 01:07:42,223 Kimmy, come on. Come on. Ha-ha-ha. 846 01:07:42,391 --> 01:07:44,142 JAY: Ow! No! 847 01:07:46,937 --> 01:07:47,979 [BOTH LAUGHlNG] 848 01:07:48,147 --> 01:07:52,817 Fade into you 849 01:07:58,032 --> 01:07:59,532 JAY: Frost, l saw you were counting... 850 01:07:59,700 --> 01:08:02,368 ...on your fingers when we were diving at Mavericks. 851 01:08:02,536 --> 01:08:05,830 FROSTY: The longer you're down there, the more your mind unspools. 852 01:08:06,874 --> 01:08:09,209 You mark each minute with a finger. 853 01:08:10,086 --> 01:08:11,753 Run out of fingers... 854 01:08:11,921 --> 01:08:13,254 ...and you know you're in trouble. 855 01:08:20,012 --> 01:08:21,805 Feel the water getting colder? 856 01:08:22,348 --> 01:08:25,350 Yeah. Because of what lies beneath us. 857 01:08:25,518 --> 01:08:29,187 lt's the Monterey Trench, 5,280 feet deep. 858 01:08:29,355 --> 01:08:33,441 Current drops in here, heads east until it hits the Southern Wall. 859 01:08:34,485 --> 01:08:36,569 Creating what? lt's a back eddy. 860 01:08:36,737 --> 01:08:40,573 You know, the day you hit that eddy is the day you'll be more than halfway there. 861 01:08:40,991 --> 01:08:43,827 Where'd you learn all that stuff anyway? From you. 862 01:08:44,829 --> 01:08:46,329 l mean, from books and maps. 863 01:08:46,497 --> 01:08:50,041 You told me to study the currents and the tides. 864 01:08:50,209 --> 01:08:51,501 Yeah, l guess l did, didn't l? 865 01:08:55,881 --> 01:09:00,301 Used to come out here and just paddle out to the deepest part. 866 01:09:01,971 --> 01:09:03,930 Used to bob up and down like a cork just.... 867 01:09:04,098 --> 01:09:06,141 Just to feel it. 868 01:09:09,061 --> 01:09:10,311 To feel what? 869 01:09:11,313 --> 01:09:13,273 The abyss. 870 01:09:19,405 --> 01:09:21,573 JAY: The tide is really strong today. 871 01:09:22,616 --> 01:09:25,827 That's because of tropical hurricanes from Japan. 872 01:09:26,203 --> 01:09:29,747 Making their way across the Pacific. Really? 873 01:09:29,915 --> 01:09:34,711 Only happens once every seven to 1 0 years. 874 01:09:34,879 --> 01:09:38,173 Last El Niño was '83. 875 01:09:38,340 --> 01:09:39,591 Brought waves into Mavericks... 876 01:09:39,758 --> 01:09:43,261 ...the size of five-story buildings. 877 01:09:44,471 --> 01:09:46,764 Oh, yeah. El Niño. 878 01:09:47,266 --> 01:09:49,225 Do you think it'll happen again this year? 879 01:09:49,393 --> 01:09:51,102 l don't know. 880 01:09:52,062 --> 01:09:55,815 But if it does, you'd better be ready. 881 01:09:56,483 --> 01:09:58,735 Because that wave of ours... 882 01:09:58,903 --> 01:10:00,945 ...ain't gonna be a secret anymore. 883 01:10:02,531 --> 01:10:04,240 GlRL 1 [SlNGlNG]: So, girl, I want you to know 884 01:10:04,408 --> 01:10:08,745 That wherever you go I won't be far away 885 01:10:08,913 --> 01:10:13,208 Because as I kiss your lips While you swing your hips 886 01:10:13,375 --> 01:10:17,670 You just see me say She's my honey baby 887 01:10:17,838 --> 01:10:19,505 Yeah, yeah, yeah 888 01:10:21,300 --> 01:10:22,634 [ALL CHEERlNG] 889 01:10:22,801 --> 01:10:25,136 GlRL 2: Nice. FROSTY: Thank you, ladies. 890 01:10:26,513 --> 01:10:28,640 All right, l gotta go get some wood. 891 01:10:28,807 --> 01:10:31,226 No. FROSTY: l got to keep you ladies warm. 892 01:10:31,393 --> 01:10:33,645 BRENDA: Why don't you go help Daddy? GlRL 1 : Bye. 893 01:10:33,812 --> 01:10:36,105 KlM: Oh, no. You're leaving. GlRL 1 : Yeah, swing shift calls. 894 01:10:36,273 --> 01:10:40,318 KlM: No. Oh, good to see you. 895 01:10:43,739 --> 01:10:45,323 So, wait, where did you guys meet? 896 01:10:45,491 --> 01:10:46,574 You're looking at it. 897 01:10:46,825 --> 01:10:47,909 Really? 898 01:10:48,077 --> 01:10:50,536 Yeah. This is where we went on our first date. 899 01:10:51,497 --> 01:10:54,832 He asked me out to dinner, and before l know it, he's... 900 01:10:55,000 --> 01:10:57,710 ...you know, spearing a fish and cooking it... 901 01:10:57,878 --> 01:11:00,505 ...over a campfire like a caveman, and l'm just... 902 01:11:00,673 --> 01:11:03,967 ...sitting there in my white taffeta dress and my pearls... 903 01:11:04,134 --> 01:11:06,552 ...you know, wondering where my cutlery is. 904 01:11:06,845 --> 01:11:08,346 [LAUGHS] 905 01:11:10,975 --> 01:11:12,350 ls all of his family here? 906 01:11:12,518 --> 01:11:13,768 No, we're his only family. 907 01:11:14,853 --> 01:11:17,522 Frosty lost both his folks when he was young. 908 01:11:17,690 --> 01:11:21,234 He doesn't really talk about it much. Kind of carries it on the inside. 909 01:11:22,069 --> 01:11:23,528 Always has. 910 01:11:24,488 --> 01:11:26,614 Somehow, it's just... 911 01:11:28,033 --> 01:11:31,369 ...made him feel unfit. Heh. 912 01:11:31,870 --> 01:11:34,163 l don't know. lt just-- lt breaks my heart. 913 01:11:41,630 --> 01:11:44,048 You take care of that boy, you hear? 914 01:11:45,092 --> 01:11:46,968 Yeah, l will. Okay. 915 01:11:47,136 --> 01:11:48,803 l mean, we're just friends... 916 01:11:48,971 --> 01:11:50,722 ...but l'll take care of him. Just friends? 917 01:11:50,889 --> 01:11:52,473 JAY: Hey, hey. KlM: Wow. Nice catch! 918 01:11:52,641 --> 01:11:54,809 Anybody want to kiss a fish? Not me. 919 01:11:55,185 --> 01:11:57,145 Eh? Yeah. No! No! Jay, no! 920 01:11:57,313 --> 01:11:59,230 No! Do not get that near me! No! 921 01:11:59,398 --> 01:12:00,898 No! 922 01:12:01,066 --> 01:12:02,108 [JAY SPEAKlNG lNDlSTlNCTLY] 923 01:12:02,276 --> 01:12:04,235 [KlM SHRlEKlNG] 924 01:12:04,611 --> 01:12:06,612 [CHATTERlNG] 925 01:12:08,449 --> 01:12:09,866 Hey. 926 01:12:10,868 --> 01:12:13,619 GlRL: What's up? Hey. How are you? 927 01:12:28,719 --> 01:12:30,720 [BLOND & BELLS LAUGHlNG] 928 01:12:31,597 --> 01:12:32,638 Oh.... 929 01:12:33,265 --> 01:12:34,640 SONNY: Well, well. 930 01:12:34,808 --> 01:12:36,476 Glad you showed up. 931 01:12:37,311 --> 01:12:39,228 We came to see the Mavericks man. 932 01:12:42,274 --> 01:12:43,691 What are they doing here? 933 01:12:44,818 --> 01:12:46,611 What are you, like, Neighborhood Watch? 934 01:12:47,321 --> 01:12:50,406 SONNY: So, what's the deal, little trash? You gonna slay that dragon... 935 01:12:50,574 --> 01:12:53,076 ...by yourself, or is your rent-a-dad gonna help? 936 01:12:57,289 --> 01:12:58,748 [SONNY CLEARS THROAT] 937 01:12:58,916 --> 01:13:01,459 "From a distance, l watched and realized... 938 01:13:01,627 --> 01:13:05,421 ...that along with rare beauty comes constant scrutiny. 939 01:13:05,589 --> 01:13:08,716 Like being the lead in a school play." 940 01:13:08,967 --> 01:13:10,718 [BOY LAUGHS AND CLAPPlNG] 941 01:13:12,262 --> 01:13:14,097 That's poetic, man. 942 01:13:16,642 --> 01:13:19,519 lt's a shame she laughs at you behind your back, though. 943 01:13:19,686 --> 01:13:21,979 But, l mean, you already knew that, right? 944 01:13:22,147 --> 01:13:24,857 lt's kind of obvious since she won't be seen with you. 945 01:13:36,954 --> 01:13:40,331 Paddle, paddle, paddle, little grom. 946 01:13:40,499 --> 01:13:42,667 Paddle, paddle, paddle. 947 01:14:19,163 --> 01:14:20,746 l'm not doing it again. 948 01:14:22,916 --> 01:14:26,711 Okay, well, you know the deal. 949 01:14:27,045 --> 01:14:29,380 You want to walk, that's your choice. 950 01:14:29,548 --> 01:14:32,842 Why are you doing this to me? Because l want the truth. 951 01:14:34,011 --> 01:14:35,720 l want to know what you're afraid of. 952 01:14:38,474 --> 01:14:39,932 l don't know. You don't know? 953 01:14:41,226 --> 01:14:43,561 Or you don't wanna know? l don't know. 954 01:14:43,729 --> 01:14:46,564 Well, you better ask yourself... 955 01:14:46,732 --> 01:14:48,983 ...what do you want to leave behind? 956 01:14:49,151 --> 01:14:52,904 The truth of who you really are or just some words on a page? 957 01:14:53,238 --> 01:14:56,407 All that stuff that's burning deep down inside of you, what is that? 958 01:14:57,618 --> 01:15:00,786 That stuff you can't even look at because it scares you so much... 959 01:15:00,954 --> 01:15:02,830 ...that the same thing in that letter? 960 01:15:02,998 --> 01:15:04,916 That letter that you can't open-- Don't. 961 01:15:05,083 --> 01:15:06,542 But you can't even throw away. Don't do this! 962 01:15:06,710 --> 01:15:11,422 Don't do what? lf you don't even have the courage to open that letter... 963 01:15:11,590 --> 01:15:13,341 ...then how can you take on that wave? 964 01:15:13,509 --> 01:15:16,427 Stop it! l don't know, okay? l said l don't know. 965 01:15:16,803 --> 01:15:17,845 [CLATTERlNG THEN THUDDlNG] 966 01:15:18,013 --> 01:15:19,222 [ROQUE SCREAMS] 967 01:15:20,807 --> 01:15:23,059 Dad, quick, Mommy's sick. 968 01:15:28,273 --> 01:15:29,440 Brenda. 969 01:15:29,608 --> 01:15:30,942 ROQUE: Mommy? 970 01:15:31,985 --> 01:15:35,363 Jay. Call 91 1 . l'm here, sweetheart. 971 01:15:35,531 --> 01:15:37,406 l'm right here. Hurry. 972 01:15:37,574 --> 01:15:40,284 Mommy. Mommy! 973 01:15:40,452 --> 01:15:41,953 JAY: Yeah, yeah, we have an emergency. 974 01:15:42,120 --> 01:15:43,204 Babe, l'm with you. 975 01:15:43,372 --> 01:15:44,956 l need you to send an ambulance, please. 976 01:15:45,123 --> 01:15:46,874 Jay, tell them she's having a stroke. 977 01:15:47,042 --> 01:15:49,126 l think she's having a stroke. She can't talk. 978 01:15:49,294 --> 01:15:50,378 Just breathe, baby. 979 01:15:50,546 --> 01:15:52,838 JAY: l don't know. l don't know. She fell.... Mommy! 980 01:15:53,048 --> 01:15:55,007 Mommy! JAY: She's not moving. 981 01:15:56,760 --> 01:15:58,469 Okay, babe. Baby, l got you. 982 01:15:58,637 --> 01:16:02,557 JAY: We're at 31 1 38th Street, in Pleasant Point. 983 01:16:11,733 --> 01:16:13,734 [ORGAN PLAYlNG HYMN] 984 01:16:28,542 --> 01:16:30,376 Hi. 985 01:16:30,544 --> 01:16:31,752 How could this happen? 986 01:16:35,757 --> 01:16:37,633 Jay, can we talk? 987 01:16:37,801 --> 01:16:39,635 Please? 988 01:16:40,512 --> 01:16:43,180 Are you okay? No. 989 01:16:45,058 --> 01:16:46,517 l need to go. 990 01:16:46,685 --> 01:16:48,019 Okay. 991 01:16:49,229 --> 01:16:51,230 [JAY SNlFFLlNG] 992 01:17:09,207 --> 01:17:10,833 Go away. 993 01:17:28,310 --> 01:17:31,646 My grandchildren are wondering where their father is. 994 01:17:33,315 --> 01:17:36,067 No, they're wondering where their mother is, sir. 995 01:17:36,902 --> 01:17:38,569 Then tell them. 996 01:17:39,613 --> 01:17:42,073 l don't know what to say. Tell them the truth. 997 01:17:43,200 --> 01:17:44,909 She's at the side of God in heaven. 998 01:17:45,118 --> 01:17:46,786 [SCOFFS] 999 01:17:47,120 --> 01:17:50,456 Well, l'm not sure l believe that right now. 1000 01:17:57,130 --> 01:17:58,506 Maybe.... 1001 01:18:00,175 --> 01:18:02,677 Maybe we'll take the kids for a couple of days. 1002 01:18:06,431 --> 01:18:07,765 Yeah. 1003 01:18:09,476 --> 01:18:12,061 Those two children have lost their mother. 1004 01:18:13,438 --> 01:18:16,357 Now, don't deny them the comfort of their father. 1005 01:18:17,401 --> 01:18:19,527 Now, come inside. 1006 01:18:51,810 --> 01:18:53,811 Why did he leave us, Mom? 1007 01:19:01,111 --> 01:19:03,154 He didn't leave us. 1008 01:19:03,321 --> 01:19:05,030 He left me. 1009 01:19:16,293 --> 01:19:18,794 Frosty? 1010 01:19:19,087 --> 01:19:20,504 [KNOCKlNG ON DOOR] 1011 01:19:20,672 --> 01:19:22,465 Frost. 1012 01:19:22,632 --> 01:19:24,633 Hey, Frosty? 1013 01:19:29,681 --> 01:19:31,932 BRENDA [ON TV]: Show Daddy the soft baby rabbit. 1014 01:19:32,517 --> 01:19:33,726 Say, "Hi." 1015 01:19:34,644 --> 01:19:36,145 Say, "I love you, Daddy." 1016 01:19:36,313 --> 01:19:38,022 [BRENDA LAUGHlNG ON TV] 1017 01:19:40,150 --> 01:19:41,192 Can you show Daddy? 1018 01:19:41,359 --> 01:19:42,860 Show Daddy the soft baby rabbit. 1019 01:19:43,028 --> 01:19:45,029 Say, "Hi." Can you say, "I love you, Daddy." 1020 01:19:45,197 --> 01:19:47,198 Frost? Hi, Daddy. 1021 01:19:47,365 --> 01:19:48,699 She said, "Da!" 1022 01:19:48,867 --> 01:19:50,493 She said "Daddy." 1023 01:19:50,660 --> 01:19:52,036 That's good. 1024 01:19:52,204 --> 01:19:55,372 Should we read a story to Daddy? Should we read a story.... 1025 01:20:04,299 --> 01:20:05,549 Deep breaths. 1026 01:20:05,717 --> 01:20:07,551 Steady rhythm. 1027 01:20:07,719 --> 01:20:09,470 Drive and glide. 1028 01:20:18,021 --> 01:20:20,022 Frosty! 1029 01:20:28,865 --> 01:20:30,032 Deep breaths. 1030 01:20:30,200 --> 01:20:31,742 Steady rhythm. 1031 01:20:31,910 --> 01:20:33,410 Drive and glide. 1032 01:20:35,747 --> 01:20:41,043 Frosty! 1033 01:20:57,227 --> 01:20:59,728 The current. 1034 01:20:59,896 --> 01:21:01,313 He floated with the current. 1035 01:21:22,335 --> 01:21:24,044 Frosty, what are you doing? 1036 01:21:24,212 --> 01:21:27,631 What are you doing? You can't just walk away from everything! 1037 01:21:27,799 --> 01:21:31,135 Why not? Huh? Why not? 1038 01:21:37,976 --> 01:21:40,311 She's all l had, Jay. 1039 01:21:40,478 --> 01:21:42,438 She's all l ever knew. 1040 01:21:44,482 --> 01:21:47,276 All l know, Frost, is what you told me. 1041 01:21:47,444 --> 01:21:50,279 lf you look hard enough, there's always a way through it. 1042 01:21:50,947 --> 01:21:52,907 But what if l don't have the strength, Jay? 1043 01:21:55,827 --> 01:21:57,661 Which pillar do l lean on then? 1044 01:21:59,456 --> 01:22:00,497 The fifth one. 1045 01:22:02,250 --> 01:22:03,500 Which one is that? 1046 01:22:04,336 --> 01:22:05,794 lt's me. 1047 01:22:08,214 --> 01:22:10,257 Come on. 1048 01:22:10,842 --> 01:22:12,718 That's enough of this. 1049 01:22:13,470 --> 01:22:15,930 Come on. lt's time to go. 1050 01:22:17,974 --> 01:22:19,475 Hey, Jay. 1051 01:22:19,643 --> 01:22:21,435 You're going the wrong way. 1052 01:22:21,603 --> 01:22:23,687 l felt the back eddy, Frost. 1053 01:22:24,064 --> 01:22:26,065 That means we're more than halfway across the bay. 1054 01:22:26,232 --> 01:22:28,734 Closer to what's in front of us than what's behind. 1055 01:22:38,036 --> 01:22:39,536 Paddle, Frosty. 1056 01:23:13,947 --> 01:23:14,989 [JAY GRUNTS] 1057 01:23:15,156 --> 01:23:16,573 Good morning. 1058 01:23:19,744 --> 01:23:21,412 Did you forget what day it is? 1059 01:23:24,582 --> 01:23:29,545 Oh. And this is all of the money that l borrowed from you. 1060 01:23:31,256 --> 01:23:32,715 Plus some interest. 1061 01:23:38,513 --> 01:23:40,139 Mom, where did you get this? 1062 01:23:40,640 --> 01:23:43,892 l was made the shift manager, because l'm so punctual. 1063 01:23:47,731 --> 01:23:50,524 All right. Open your present. 1064 01:23:53,236 --> 01:23:54,778 [CHUCKLES] 1065 01:24:01,619 --> 01:24:05,372 Frosty said that you might be needing that to follow the swells. 1066 01:24:08,043 --> 01:24:11,879 And he said there is a very big one coming. 1067 01:24:12,047 --> 01:24:14,798 lt was hard to figure out what he was talking about, but... 1068 01:24:14,966 --> 01:24:18,761 ...they're calling it El Niño, which means "the boy." 1069 01:24:20,305 --> 01:24:23,557 You know that because you got a C in Spanish. Heh. 1070 01:24:24,476 --> 01:24:26,060 You knew about this the whole time. 1071 01:24:27,312 --> 01:24:31,899 Yeah. Frosty's no dummy, and my handwriting is not that good. 1072 01:24:44,412 --> 01:24:45,954 Happy birthday. 1073 01:25:15,819 --> 01:25:18,195 Yes! Ha! 1074 01:25:23,034 --> 01:25:25,410 Nice weather we're having, eh, ladies? 1075 01:25:25,578 --> 01:25:28,622 FROSTY: Hey. How's it going, Bob? How you holding up? 1076 01:25:28,790 --> 01:25:30,624 Yeah, yeah. Good. 1077 01:25:32,127 --> 01:25:35,712 This is Jay. Bob Pearson. Heard a lot about you, kid. 1078 01:25:35,880 --> 01:25:37,881 Thank you, sir. Follow me. 1079 01:25:38,967 --> 01:25:40,676 FROSTY: How's it cooking? Catching any waves? 1080 01:25:40,844 --> 01:25:44,638 No, l'll never surf anymore. l'm making too many boards for all you guys. 1081 01:25:44,806 --> 01:25:47,391 FROSTY: That's the way l like to keep it. 1082 01:25:52,730 --> 01:25:56,400 You want to slay a giant, you need a sacred spear. 1083 01:25:57,193 --> 01:25:59,695 Happy birthday, Jay. 1084 01:26:03,241 --> 01:26:05,075 Can l...? 1085 01:26:05,243 --> 01:26:06,869 Yeah. She's all yours. 1086 01:26:20,967 --> 01:26:24,511 l don't know what to say. Just stay low, go fast. 1087 01:26:25,138 --> 01:26:26,263 Yeah. Yeah. 1088 01:26:44,199 --> 01:26:46,325 There. There he is. 1089 01:26:57,462 --> 01:26:59,379 Yeah, he can take a beating. 1090 01:26:59,547 --> 01:27:01,506 But can he surf? 1091 01:27:01,674 --> 01:27:03,508 Like nothing you've ever seen. 1092 01:27:06,304 --> 01:27:08,764 You ever seen anyone that can tread water like that... 1093 01:27:08,932 --> 01:27:10,682 ...for 45 minutes without drowning? 1094 01:27:14,979 --> 01:27:16,730 He's got a point. 1095 01:27:18,024 --> 01:27:20,484 Good, l'll take that as two yeses. 1096 01:27:26,699 --> 01:27:29,284 Just make sure he doesn't drop in on me, all right? 1097 01:27:31,204 --> 01:27:33,163 MAN [ON RADlO]: Strong El Niño induced winter storms... 1098 01:27:33,331 --> 01:27:35,207 ...are queued up in the Gulf of Alaska... 1099 01:27:35,375 --> 01:27:37,584 ...and progressing eastward towards California. 1100 01:27:37,752 --> 01:27:41,338 The burst is producing 55-knot winds and seas to 40 feet. 1101 01:27:41,506 --> 01:27:44,132 Large ocean swells are expected to arrive... 1102 01:27:44,300 --> 01:27:45,300 [RAlSES VOLUME ON RADlO] 1103 01:27:45,468 --> 01:27:47,844 ...resulting in large breaking waves with heights to 35 feet. 1104 01:27:48,012 --> 01:27:49,680 [KNOCKlNG CONTlNUES] 1105 01:27:56,062 --> 01:27:58,522 Hey. lt's pouring out there. 1106 01:28:03,069 --> 01:28:04,111 How you been? 1107 01:28:05,863 --> 01:28:06,863 Good. 1108 01:28:13,579 --> 01:28:15,539 Kim... 1109 01:28:16,165 --> 01:28:17,416 ...what's wrong? 1110 01:28:19,460 --> 01:28:21,878 We've been friends forever. You don't have to do this. Just tell me. 1111 01:28:22,046 --> 01:28:25,340 lt's just complicated. 1112 01:28:25,508 --> 01:28:27,050 Not from where l'm sitting. 1113 01:28:28,970 --> 01:28:31,346 That's because you only see the good in everything. 1114 01:28:33,057 --> 01:28:34,641 Most of us spend all of our time... 1115 01:28:34,809 --> 01:28:38,478 ...dwelling on all the what ifs and just looking for... 1116 01:28:38,646 --> 01:28:40,981 ...all the reasons why things could never work out. 1117 01:28:41,941 --> 01:28:43,650 And what if you're wrong? 1118 01:28:45,695 --> 01:28:48,905 Then you show up to a pizza parlor... 1119 01:28:49,073 --> 01:28:50,824 ...late one night, in the rain. 1120 01:28:55,705 --> 01:28:59,333 Ever since we were little kids, Jay... 1121 01:29:00,877 --> 01:29:04,629 ...l've just had this feeling deep down inside... 1122 01:29:06,591 --> 01:29:07,966 ...that you're the one... 1123 01:29:08,926 --> 01:29:12,304 ...and l'm gonna spend the rest of my life with you. 1124 01:29:14,891 --> 01:29:16,266 What? 1125 01:29:18,186 --> 01:29:19,603 What's wrong? 1126 01:30:47,150 --> 01:30:50,527 MAN [ON RADlO]: Be advised, there is an extremely high surf advisory in effect. 1127 01:30:50,695 --> 01:30:52,988 Buoys reporting 32 feet at 1 8 seconds. 1128 01:30:53,364 --> 01:30:55,365 [PHONE RlNGlNG] 1129 01:30:57,493 --> 01:30:58,660 Hey. 1130 01:30:58,828 --> 01:31:02,581 Hey, Frosty, l just heard, 32 at 1 8. 1131 01:31:04,125 --> 01:31:05,876 Okay. 1132 01:31:06,043 --> 01:31:08,003 Okay, l'll call Kim. 1133 01:31:14,969 --> 01:31:19,389 Are you sure you don't wanna come? l just want you to come home. 1134 01:31:24,896 --> 01:31:26,938 FROSTY: You sure you got everything? 1135 01:31:27,440 --> 01:31:30,400 Yeah. All right, then. 1136 01:31:30,568 --> 01:31:31,776 Because of that... 1137 01:31:31,944 --> 01:31:35,405 ...there'll be a lot of cowboys out there today trying to prove themselves. 1138 01:31:36,199 --> 01:31:37,949 Some of them are gonna get hurt. 1139 01:31:38,117 --> 01:31:42,245 So keep your distance and keep your focus, all right? 1140 01:31:48,920 --> 01:31:52,672 So a swell with this much west... 1141 01:31:52,840 --> 01:31:54,382 ...means sets will be shifting. 1142 01:31:56,219 --> 01:31:58,053 So you better be prepared. 1143 01:32:01,098 --> 01:32:04,476 Pull over. Pull over. 1144 01:32:08,314 --> 01:32:10,315 [VOMlTlNG] 1145 01:32:25,456 --> 01:32:27,457 [CHATTERlNG] 1146 01:32:36,968 --> 01:32:38,843 FROSTY: Let's keep you warm, okay? ROQUE: Okay. 1147 01:32:39,011 --> 01:32:40,595 All right. 1148 01:32:46,686 --> 01:32:48,478 l'll catch up with you. 1149 01:32:50,147 --> 01:32:51,898 Hey. Hey. 1150 01:32:52,900 --> 01:32:55,277 Coast looks pretty scary. 1151 01:32:55,444 --> 01:32:57,612 Never seen it this big before. 1152 01:33:00,283 --> 01:33:02,492 l've been thinking about a lot of things lately. 1153 01:33:03,578 --> 01:33:05,203 You taught me to surf. 1154 01:33:06,122 --> 01:33:07,664 l never thanked you for that. 1155 01:33:09,625 --> 01:33:11,293 l'll be watching you, man. 1156 01:33:19,135 --> 01:33:22,137 [BOYS CHEERlNG] 1157 01:33:23,973 --> 01:33:26,600 End of an innocence, my brother. 1158 01:33:32,023 --> 01:33:33,440 How you feeling, kid? 1159 01:33:33,608 --> 01:33:35,233 You ready? 1160 01:33:35,401 --> 01:33:37,736 Suit up. We'll paddle out together. 1161 01:33:40,531 --> 01:33:42,449 What about you, Frost? 1162 01:33:42,617 --> 01:33:44,618 [SlGHS] 1163 01:33:44,994 --> 01:33:47,996 l made a promise a long time ago, chief. 1164 01:33:59,258 --> 01:34:01,801 That isn't El Niño, boys. 1165 01:34:01,969 --> 01:34:03,970 That's El Jefe right there. 1166 01:34:07,808 --> 01:34:09,059 You gotta be kidding me. 1167 01:34:10,728 --> 01:34:13,063 lt's too big for the kid. 1168 01:34:22,782 --> 01:34:24,240 Jay, are you sure about this? 1169 01:34:24,950 --> 01:34:27,077 l mean, really, really sure? 1170 01:34:27,411 --> 01:34:28,745 Because l'm not. 1171 01:34:34,251 --> 01:34:35,460 l am. 1172 01:34:48,474 --> 01:34:52,060 l know what you're gonna say, so don't. 1173 01:34:52,228 --> 01:34:54,062 That wasn't the deal. 1174 01:34:54,230 --> 01:34:55,271 Remember? 1175 01:34:55,898 --> 01:34:57,774 No questions, no arguing. 1176 01:35:04,448 --> 01:35:08,326 l just wanted to tell you something l should've told you long ago. 1177 01:35:09,787 --> 01:35:11,746 Which is, it doesn't matter. 1178 01:35:12,665 --> 01:35:16,793 Whether you decide to paddle out or take that drop... 1179 01:35:18,462 --> 01:35:21,131 ...l love you no matter what. 1180 01:35:27,722 --> 01:35:29,264 Frost. 1181 01:35:50,870 --> 01:35:52,370 Come on. 1182 01:36:33,204 --> 01:36:35,705 Hey, get us closer! 1183 01:36:35,873 --> 01:36:37,624 Closer! 1184 01:36:58,729 --> 01:36:59,979 Let's do it! 1185 01:37:00,147 --> 01:37:02,440 Whoo! Go time! 1186 01:37:52,992 --> 01:37:54,284 Ah.... 1187 01:38:05,921 --> 01:38:08,673 Get out of here! Sets are shifting! 1188 01:38:08,841 --> 01:38:11,092 Swing wide! Outside! 1189 01:38:11,260 --> 01:38:12,802 MAN 1 : Kid, paddle, paddle, paddle! 1190 01:38:16,599 --> 01:38:17,640 MAN 2: Go, go, go! 1191 01:38:30,613 --> 01:38:32,405 Get your boats out of here now! 1192 01:38:46,170 --> 01:38:47,837 MAN 3: Go, Jay, get out! 1193 01:38:48,005 --> 01:38:50,006 MAN 1 : Paddle, paddle, paddle! 1194 01:39:03,979 --> 01:39:06,272 Somebody's gonna die out there. 1195 01:39:15,032 --> 01:39:17,033 [PEOPLE SCREAMlNG] 1196 01:40:17,720 --> 01:40:20,263 [CAMERA CLlCKlNG] 1197 01:41:06,018 --> 01:41:09,604 FROSTY: He'll be okay, as long as he can still climb up the leash. 1198 01:41:31,293 --> 01:41:33,294 [GASPlNG] 1199 01:41:57,402 --> 01:42:14,502 Come on, Jay. 1200 01:42:22,136 --> 01:42:23,511 [SlGHS] 1201 01:42:29,560 --> 01:42:31,561 [GASPS] 1202 01:42:32,521 --> 01:42:33,896 There he is! 1203 01:43:01,383 --> 01:43:03,092 Grab ahold! 1204 01:43:03,760 --> 01:43:06,387 No, no, no! Give me my board! 1205 01:43:08,974 --> 01:43:10,850 You heard him! 1206 01:43:16,607 --> 01:43:18,107 Thanks. 1207 01:43:24,448 --> 01:43:25,823 Wait a minute. What's he doing? 1208 01:43:33,790 --> 01:43:36,209 He came to surf Mavericks. 1209 01:43:38,295 --> 01:43:41,255 MAN 4: Set it up, man. Set it up. 1210 01:43:41,423 --> 01:43:42,965 MAN 5: Take it. MAN 6: l got it. 1211 01:43:43,133 --> 01:43:44,383 MAN 5: Thanks. 1212 01:43:45,052 --> 01:43:46,385 MAN 7: Hold on, hold on. 1213 01:43:47,679 --> 01:43:49,513 Got it? MAN 5: Yeah. 1214 01:44:10,118 --> 01:44:12,828 Come on, man, you don't have to surf it. 1215 01:44:12,996 --> 01:44:15,831 Came this far, you at least need to feel it. No. 1216 01:44:17,292 --> 01:44:19,460 Think l've felt enough for one day. 1217 01:44:25,592 --> 01:44:27,843 Kill it. 1218 01:44:37,396 --> 01:44:39,021 JAY: Dear Frosty.... 1219 01:44:40,440 --> 01:44:41,691 Truth is that I am afraid. 1220 01:44:42,609 --> 01:44:44,485 l'm afraid I'll never see my dad again... 1221 01:44:44,653 --> 01:44:46,862 ...and that my mom will never find happiness. 1222 01:44:48,365 --> 01:44:49,865 I'm afraid of losing Kim... 1223 01:44:50,409 --> 01:44:52,326 ...because she's the love of my life. 1224 01:44:52,536 --> 01:44:54,787 And, of course, I'm afraid of losing you. 1225 01:44:56,248 --> 01:44:58,374 I'm not sure what you think fathers are supposed to be... 1226 01:44:58,542 --> 01:45:01,168 ...but now I know what they should be. 1227 01:45:06,633 --> 01:45:09,093 Glad to see you made it, kid. 1228 01:45:10,137 --> 01:45:11,721 JAY: I finally read my dad's letter... 1229 01:45:11,888 --> 01:45:14,515 ...which was Iike my last essay to you. 1230 01:45:14,683 --> 01:45:16,183 Just a bunch of words on a page. 1231 01:45:32,743 --> 01:45:34,160 This one's all you, charger. 1232 01:45:35,203 --> 01:45:36,537 JAY: I know this sounds strange... 1233 01:45:36,705 --> 01:45:39,749 ...but I've always felt like I wouldn't be around for very long... 1234 01:45:39,916 --> 01:45:42,293 ...which is why I want to take that drop. 1235 01:45:43,045 --> 01:45:45,171 Because once l Iook down over the edge... 1236 01:45:45,339 --> 01:45:48,632 ...and I catch it, I'll become a part of it. 1237 01:45:49,343 --> 01:45:52,094 And in that moment, I'll know that l'm alive. 1238 01:46:43,605 --> 01:46:45,606 [ALL CHEERlNG] 1239 01:47:53,258 --> 01:47:55,092 FROSTY: Jay became famous that day... 1240 01:47:55,260 --> 01:47:56,677 ...not for riding giants... 1241 01:47:56,845 --> 01:48:00,181 ...but for the courage of a boy who dared the impossible. 1242 01:48:00,724 --> 01:48:03,434 Over the years, he rose to the peak of the surfing world... 1243 01:48:03,602 --> 01:48:06,645 ...his prowess matched only by his joy. 1244 01:48:07,189 --> 01:48:09,940 The true prince amidst a sport of kings. 1245 01:48:10,108 --> 01:48:13,611 He married his chiIdhood sweetheart and swore himself true. 1246 01:48:29,753 --> 01:48:31,754 As for the rest... 1247 01:48:35,592 --> 01:48:39,261 ...all l will say is, the ones who push the limits discover... 1248 01:48:41,306 --> 01:48:44,308 ...the limits sometimes push back. 1249 01:49:27,894 --> 01:49:29,311 To Jay! 1250 01:49:37,028 --> 01:49:38,779 ALL: To Jay! 1251 01:49:39,823 --> 01:49:42,157 To Jay! 1252 01:49:42,325 --> 01:49:43,325 [ALL CHEERlNG] 1253 01:49:43,493 --> 01:49:45,619 Yeah! 1254 01:49:45,787 --> 01:49:47,788 [GREG HOLDEN'S "l NEED AN ENERGY" PLAYlNG] 1255 01:49:59,175 --> 01:50:01,135 FROSTY: We all come from the sea... 1256 01:50:01,303 --> 01:50:04,305 ...but we're not all of the sea. 1257 01:50:04,472 --> 01:50:07,891 Those of us who are, we children of the tides... 1258 01:50:08,059 --> 01:50:11,604 ...must return to it again and again... 1259 01:50:11,771 --> 01:50:13,897 ...until the day we don't come back... 1260 01:50:14,065 --> 01:50:15,524 ...leaving behind only that... 1261 01:50:15,692 --> 01:50:18,360 ...which was touched along the way. 1262 01:50:19,195 --> 01:50:21,447 JAY: You just got to appreciate everything. 1263 01:50:21,615 --> 01:50:25,492 Um, l think that's one of the most important things in life... 1264 01:50:25,660 --> 01:50:27,536 ...is just really appreciating it... 1265 01:50:27,704 --> 01:50:30,789 ...because, you know, we only get to do this once. 1266 01:50:30,957 --> 01:50:35,544 And it's not for a long time, so enjoy it. 1267 01:50:36,713 --> 01:50:37,713 Yeah. 1268 01:50:47,724 --> 01:50:51,226 l need a lift, I need a shake 1269 01:50:51,394 --> 01:50:54,772 l need to find another chance That I can take 1270 01:50:54,939 --> 01:50:58,400 I need a fight, I need an energy 1271 01:50:58,568 --> 01:51:01,904 I need something that will Take me quickly 1272 01:51:02,072 --> 01:51:14,541 I gotta just let go, whoa 1273 01:51:17,587 --> 01:51:20,964 It's all that l know 1274 01:51:21,132 --> 01:51:24,551 It's all that l see 1275 01:51:24,719 --> 01:51:30,516 It's all that's been here Controlling me 1276 01:51:31,726 --> 01:51:35,145 It's all that l know 1277 01:51:35,313 --> 01:51:42,277 It's all that l see 1278 01:51:48,284 --> 01:51:51,620 l need a lift, I need a shake 1279 01:51:51,788 --> 01:51:55,249 l need to find another chance That I can take 1280 01:51:55,417 --> 01:51:58,752 I need a fight, I need an energy 1281 01:51:58,920 --> 01:52:02,297 I need something that will Take me quickly 1282 01:52:02,465 --> 01:52:29,199 I gotta just let go, whoa 1283 01:52:29,367 --> 01:52:36,165 Whoa, I gotta just let go, whoa 1284 01:52:38,042 --> 01:52:57,853 I gotta just let go, whoa 1285 01:56:20,264 --> 01:56:21,264 [English - US - PSDH]