1 00:00:18,700 --> 00:00:22,060 LEIGH SALES: Restaurants are notorious for being hectic, 2 00:00:22,060 --> 00:00:26,100 demanding workplaces that ask an awful lot of the people who run them. 3 00:00:27,380 --> 00:00:31,660 So far in our trilogy about restaurateurs, we've met Josh Niland 4 00:00:31,660 --> 00:00:32,980 and Shaun Christie-David, 5 00:00:32,980 --> 00:00:35,820 who are going all out to achieve their dreams. 6 00:00:37,300 --> 00:00:39,220 This time, we're going behind the scenes 7 00:00:39,220 --> 00:00:42,380 with one of Australia's best-known chefs, Kylie Kwong, 8 00:00:42,380 --> 00:00:42,620 with one of Australia's as she reveals some big news. 9 00:00:42,620 --> 00:00:44,500 as she reveals some big news. 10 00:00:47,900 --> 00:00:50,340 KYLIE: I've been running restaurants for 24 years, 11 00:00:50,340 --> 00:00:50,580 KYLIE: I've been running restaurants literally behind the stove, 12 00:00:50,580 --> 00:00:52,300 literally behind the stove, 13 00:00:52,300 --> 00:00:55,580 but I can feel a shift occurring inside of me. 14 00:00:57,260 --> 00:01:01,540 And I'm thinking about where I want to go in the next phase of my life. 15 00:01:03,820 --> 00:01:07,420 That means for me, not racing around like a maniac all day, 16 00:01:07,420 --> 00:01:10,140 every day, seven days a week, which is what I used to do. 17 00:01:11,860 --> 00:01:15,340 In the last 12 years, Lucky has been my driving force. 18 00:01:16,460 --> 00:01:19,460 I have accepted that I don't have him physically, 19 00:01:19,460 --> 00:01:22,220 but I have found a space to be with my child, 20 00:01:22,220 --> 00:01:22,460 but I have found a space and that is all that matters. 21 00:01:22,460 --> 00:01:24,700 and that is all that matters. 22 00:01:26,140 --> 00:01:29,460 Maternal energy for me is about giving back to community, 23 00:01:29,460 --> 00:01:33,100 it's about feeding people, it's about nourishing people. 24 00:01:33,100 --> 00:01:37,660 It's about sharing the Lucky Kwong story with everyone. 25 00:01:50,660 --> 00:01:52,580 Here she is, my favourite. 26 00:01:52,580 --> 00:01:54,380 Nice to see you. 27 00:01:54,380 --> 00:01:56,300 Alright, come in, everybody. 28 00:01:56,300 --> 00:01:59,300 WOMAN: The thing with Kylie is that she has a wonderful mixture 29 00:01:59,300 --> 00:01:59,540 WOMAN: The thing with Kylie is between fierceness and warmth. 30 00:01:59,540 --> 00:02:02,380 between fierceness and warmth. 31 00:02:02,380 --> 00:02:03,820 Pleasure. Make yourself at home. 32 00:02:05,340 --> 00:02:07,460 Let's plate this up. Try and keep it hot. 33 00:02:07,460 --> 00:02:09,700 WOMAN: She's a force to be reckoned with. 34 00:02:09,700 --> 00:02:12,740 She knows what she wants, so she sets about, 35 00:02:12,740 --> 00:02:12,980 She knows what she wants, you know, doing it the right way. 36 00:02:12,980 --> 00:02:14,380 you know, doing it the right way. 37 00:02:14,380 --> 00:02:14,580 you know, doing it the right way. "Yes, Kylie. Yes, Kylie." (LAUGHS) 38 00:02:14,580 --> 00:02:17,660 "Yes, Kylie. Yes, Kylie." (LAUGHS) 39 00:02:17,660 --> 00:02:17,900 Everyone knows I'm bossy boots and I like directing. "Yes, Kylie. Yes, Kylie." (LAUGHS) 40 00:02:17,900 --> 00:02:20,180 Everyone knows I'm bossy boots and I like directing. 41 00:02:20,180 --> 00:02:20,460 Everyone knows I'm bossy boots and I like directing. Uh, Baba, a little bit more sauce. A little bit, a little bit. 42 00:02:20,460 --> 00:02:22,860 Uh, Baba, a little bit more sauce. A little bit, a little bit. 43 00:02:24,300 --> 00:02:25,300 Just careful. 44 00:02:25,300 --> 00:02:29,820 WOMAN: Kylie is very intense. (LAUGHS) 45 00:02:29,820 --> 00:02:33,380 She also has a very Aussie sensibility. 46 00:02:33,380 --> 00:02:36,700 Like, she'll pour tomato sauce over quite sophisticated food. 47 00:02:36,700 --> 00:02:36,940 Oh, she's a bogan. (GUFFAWS) Like, she'll pour tomato sauce over quite sophisticated food. 48 00:02:36,940 --> 00:02:40,220 Oh, she's a bogan. (GUFFAWS) 49 00:02:40,220 --> 00:02:40,420 Oh, she's a bogan. (GUFFAWS) Beautiful. Not too sweet. 50 00:02:40,420 --> 00:02:42,180 Beautiful. Not too sweet. 51 00:02:42,180 --> 00:02:43,780 WOMAN: No-one cooks like her. 52 00:02:43,780 --> 00:02:45,220 Did you put the XO in? 53 00:02:45,220 --> 00:02:45,460 The food she cooks really comes Did you put the XO in? 54 00:02:45,460 --> 00:02:49,260 The food she cooks really comes from her Chinese heritage, 55 00:02:49,260 --> 00:02:49,540 and yet she uses Australian ingredients to make it sing a tune The food she cooks really comes from her Chinese heritage, 56 00:02:49,540 --> 00:02:56,660 and yet she uses Australian ingredients to make it sing a tune 57 00:02:56,660 --> 00:02:56,900 and yet she uses Australian ingredients to make it sing a tune that only she really can play. 58 00:02:56,900 --> 00:03:00,140 that only she really can play. 59 00:03:00,140 --> 00:03:00,380 This is the Bushman. that only she really can play. 60 00:03:00,380 --> 00:03:02,020 This is the Bushman. Oh, amazing. 61 00:03:02,020 --> 00:03:02,260 This is the Bushman. Her cooking is some of the best 62 00:03:02,260 --> 00:03:05,700 Her cooking is some of the best 63 00:03:05,700 --> 00:03:08,740 I have ever, ever eaten in the world. 64 00:03:08,740 --> 00:03:11,020 Yeah. We'll do one more, please. 65 00:03:11,020 --> 00:03:12,020 Yep. 66 00:03:12,020 --> 00:03:12,220 In her generation, she was unique. Yep. 67 00:03:12,220 --> 00:03:15,140 In her generation, she was unique. 68 00:03:15,140 --> 00:03:19,380 She came through with such a blast. 69 00:03:19,380 --> 00:03:19,580 She came through with such a blast. You couldn't ignore Kylie. 70 00:03:19,580 --> 00:03:21,140 You couldn't ignore Kylie. 71 00:03:24,100 --> 00:03:26,540 Oh, look at these beautiful garlic chives. 72 00:03:26,540 --> 00:03:29,140 Yellow ones. The yellow ones are actually quite rare. 73 00:03:29,140 --> 00:03:31,180 Let's get those. I'll put them in the Hokkien noodles. 74 00:03:31,180 --> 00:03:34,780 PAULINE: As a child, you would not believe how shy Kylie was. 75 00:03:34,780 --> 00:03:37,300 There's too many knobs on that. Too many knobs, OK. 76 00:03:37,300 --> 00:03:42,260 Until she was probably five years old, she hardly spoke. 77 00:03:42,260 --> 00:03:42,500 Until she was probably She'd just hide behind me. 78 00:03:42,500 --> 00:03:43,780 She'd just hide behind me. 79 00:03:43,780 --> 00:03:46,220 Oh, remember this? Fu Yi? 80 00:03:46,220 --> 00:03:48,060 Oh, God, I love that. 81 00:03:48,060 --> 00:03:52,060 Both my husband and myself were born in Australia. 82 00:03:52,060 --> 00:03:53,740 I'm getting these, I love these. 83 00:03:53,740 --> 00:03:56,420 The children grew up really as Australians, 84 00:03:56,420 --> 00:03:56,660 The children grew up but with a strong Asian influence, 85 00:03:56,660 --> 00:03:59,060 but with a strong Asian influence, 86 00:03:59,060 --> 00:03:59,300 especially in our eating but with a strong Asian influence, 87 00:03:59,300 --> 00:04:02,180 especially in our eating and some of our customs. 88 00:04:03,220 --> 00:04:05,780 There's soy sauce chicken. Oh, right. 89 00:04:05,780 --> 00:04:07,180 That char siu looks good. 90 00:04:07,180 --> 00:04:09,900 KYLIE: Food was everything in our childhood. 91 00:04:09,900 --> 00:04:10,140 KYLIE: Food was everything One with a little bit of fat. 92 00:04:10,140 --> 00:04:11,420 One with a little bit of fat. 93 00:04:11,420 --> 00:04:13,820 I learnt that food connects people 94 00:04:13,820 --> 00:04:16,500 and that food makes people happy, from my mother. 95 00:04:20,700 --> 00:04:22,500 You know, the reason why I taught you all to cook 96 00:04:22,500 --> 00:04:22,740 You know, the reason was so that you could cook for me. 97 00:04:22,740 --> 00:04:23,740 was so that you could cook for me. 98 00:04:23,740 --> 00:04:27,260 So, how about... Very smart. 99 00:04:27,260 --> 00:04:31,020 We used to sit around this table every single night, 100 00:04:31,020 --> 00:04:32,860 and I was so close to my mum, 101 00:04:32,860 --> 00:04:35,980 I used to have my left leg wrapped around hers. 102 00:04:35,980 --> 00:04:37,980 And, you know, like, I wasn't a baby then, 103 00:04:37,980 --> 00:04:38,220 And, you know, like, I was probably still about 13 or 14. 104 00:04:38,220 --> 00:04:40,220 I was probably still about 13 or 14. 105 00:04:40,220 --> 00:04:41,580 How old were you again when 106 00:04:41,580 --> 00:04:41,820 Gong-Gong started to How old were you again when 107 00:04:41,820 --> 00:04:43,660 Gong-Gong started to teach you cooking? 108 00:04:43,660 --> 00:04:45,460 PAULINE: Kylie and I were best friends. 109 00:04:45,460 --> 00:04:46,900 Spot-on. Spot-on? 110 00:04:46,900 --> 00:04:50,620 Her dad was very unpredictable at times. 111 00:04:50,620 --> 00:04:54,180 It was just every now and again, it was like a pressure valve, you know? 112 00:04:54,180 --> 00:04:54,420 It was just every now and again, it He had the loudest voice. 113 00:04:54,420 --> 00:04:55,900 He had the loudest voice. 114 00:04:55,900 --> 00:04:56,140 These Hokkien noodles He had the loudest voice. 115 00:04:56,140 --> 00:04:57,660 These Hokkien noodles are actually cooked. 116 00:04:57,660 --> 00:05:00,180 KYLIE: I was very intimidated by my father. 117 00:05:00,180 --> 00:05:01,300 Then I'll take them out. 118 00:05:01,300 --> 00:05:04,300 KYLIE: We would all listen out for his Holden engine 119 00:05:04,300 --> 00:05:08,500 coming into the driveway at 4:45, and we'd all be like... 120 00:05:09,900 --> 00:05:11,740 .."Wonder what mood Dad's in." 121 00:05:11,740 --> 00:05:15,820 When he was good, he was great, and when he was bad, he was really bad. 122 00:05:18,980 --> 00:05:21,180 I went to an all-girls school. 123 00:05:21,180 --> 00:05:25,060 My friends naturally became interested in boys 124 00:05:25,060 --> 00:05:28,980 and got boyfriends, and that's when the separation started 125 00:05:28,980 --> 00:05:31,100 and the confusion and anxiety started for me, 126 00:05:31,100 --> 00:05:31,340 and the confusion and anxiety because I did not feel like that. 127 00:05:31,340 --> 00:05:33,380 because I did not feel like that. 128 00:05:33,380 --> 00:05:35,220 You can never have enough shallots. 129 00:05:36,380 --> 00:05:41,300 KYLIE: I finished my high school and then I got a job in advertising. 130 00:05:41,300 --> 00:05:41,540 KYLIE: I finished my high school I went to my first gay party. 131 00:05:41,540 --> 00:05:43,780 I went to my first gay party. 132 00:05:43,780 --> 00:05:45,860 Oh, my God, I'll never forget it. 133 00:05:45,860 --> 00:05:46,100 I walked into that home Oh, my God, I'll never forget it. 134 00:05:46,100 --> 00:05:49,380 I walked into that home and I just felt this energy 135 00:05:49,380 --> 00:05:52,060 and I thought, "Oh, my goodness, I've come home. 136 00:05:52,060 --> 00:05:52,300 and I thought, "Oh, my goodness, "I've found my people." 137 00:05:52,300 --> 00:05:53,820 "I've found my people." 138 00:05:56,500 --> 00:05:59,500 PAULINE: It was sort of not really a shock because I had an inkling, 139 00:05:59,500 --> 00:05:59,740 PAULINE: It was sort of not really but it was sadness. 140 00:05:59,740 --> 00:06:01,980 but it was sadness. 141 00:06:01,980 --> 00:06:05,700 It was sadness, and it was also selfishness. 142 00:06:06,780 --> 00:06:09,540 I was going to, you know, plan your wedding. 143 00:06:09,540 --> 00:06:11,780 And I thought, "I won't have that now." 144 00:06:13,340 --> 00:06:16,500 I'm ashamed to say that I was probably thinking, 145 00:06:16,500 --> 00:06:16,740 I'm ashamed to say that "What are our friends going to say?" 146 00:06:16,740 --> 00:06:18,460 "What are our friends going to say?" 147 00:06:19,420 --> 00:06:23,700 KYLIE: She was just saying, you know, "Please don't say anything to Dad." 148 00:06:23,700 --> 00:06:26,700 But one night at the dinner table, he literally just snapped 149 00:06:26,700 --> 00:06:26,940 But one night at the dinner table, and kind of got his chopstick, 150 00:06:26,940 --> 00:06:28,500 and kind of got his chopstick, 151 00:06:28,500 --> 00:06:30,380 "I don't like what's going on here." 152 00:06:31,540 --> 00:06:36,580 He asked me point-blank, and I said, "Dad, yes, I am. 153 00:06:36,580 --> 00:06:36,820 He asked me point-blank, "Dad...Dad, I'm gay." 154 00:06:36,820 --> 00:06:39,620 "Dad...Dad, I'm gay." 155 00:06:41,900 --> 00:06:43,460 He said, "I disagree with you. 156 00:06:43,460 --> 00:06:47,980 "I don't like this lifestyle, and from this moment onwards, 157 00:06:47,980 --> 00:06:49,860 "I disown you as my daughter 158 00:06:49,860 --> 00:06:53,180 "and I want you to move out of the home by the weekend." 159 00:06:54,180 --> 00:06:56,500 You know, he said that to me. 160 00:06:56,500 --> 00:06:58,260 I felt ashamed. I felt like... 161 00:06:58,260 --> 00:06:58,500 In that moment, I felt like I felt ashamed. I felt like... 162 00:06:58,500 --> 00:07:00,500 In that moment, I felt like I had literally 163 00:07:00,500 --> 00:07:00,740 In that moment, I felt like broken up the entire family. 164 00:07:00,740 --> 00:07:02,540 broken up the entire family. 165 00:07:04,940 --> 00:07:08,940 And then on the Saturday morning, I had all of my things in boxes 166 00:07:08,940 --> 00:07:13,300 ready to go, and I awoke to this sobbing mess beside me, 167 00:07:13,300 --> 00:07:13,540 ready to go, and I awoke to and it was my father. 168 00:07:13,540 --> 00:07:14,940 and it was my father. 169 00:07:14,940 --> 00:07:18,460 He was...he was this beautiful, soft, 170 00:07:18,460 --> 00:07:21,660 sensitive, open, raw, vulnerable being, 171 00:07:21,660 --> 00:07:25,100 the father that I'd always wanted, ALWAYS wanted. 172 00:07:26,700 --> 00:07:30,380 He said, "I can't do it to you. You are my only daughter. 173 00:07:30,380 --> 00:07:31,660 "I love you. 174 00:07:31,660 --> 00:07:34,140 "Darling, I still don't understand this lifestyle, 175 00:07:34,140 --> 00:07:37,020 "but it doesn't matter, I accept who you are." 176 00:07:37,020 --> 00:07:39,260 I was so relieved. I had... 177 00:07:39,260 --> 00:07:40,460 It was such a relief 178 00:07:40,460 --> 00:07:40,700 to see the pair of you hugging each other and making up, It was such a relief 179 00:07:40,700 --> 00:07:43,420 to see the pair of you hugging each other and making up, 180 00:07:43,420 --> 00:07:43,700 to see the pair of you hugging each other and making up, because I thought I couldn't see my family torn apart like that. 181 00:07:43,700 --> 00:07:48,340 because I thought I couldn't see my family torn apart like that. 182 00:07:48,340 --> 00:07:51,140 KYLIE: He was conservative, he was black and white. 183 00:07:51,140 --> 00:07:54,980 But in that moment, all of that ego fell away. 184 00:07:56,700 --> 00:07:59,540 Then he got up from my bed and then marched down the hallway, 185 00:07:59,540 --> 00:08:01,420 and off he went to golf. 186 00:08:04,980 --> 00:08:09,820 I was in advertising for a few years and I really realised how cutthroat 187 00:08:09,820 --> 00:08:11,980 and commercial the world of advertising was, 188 00:08:11,980 --> 00:08:12,220 and commercial the world and it just wasn't for me. 189 00:08:12,220 --> 00:08:13,860 and it just wasn't for me. 190 00:08:13,860 --> 00:08:17,140 I then took a job catering. 191 00:08:17,140 --> 00:08:20,340 I absolutely loved it because it was something 192 00:08:20,340 --> 00:08:20,580 I absolutely loved it that just was so familiar to me. 193 00:08:20,580 --> 00:08:23,300 that just was so familiar to me. 194 00:08:23,300 --> 00:08:26,420 I had this light bulb moment and I ran home to Mum and Dad 195 00:08:26,420 --> 00:08:29,580 and I said, "I know what I want to do, I want to be a chef. 196 00:08:29,580 --> 00:08:32,940 "I want to work for the best person in Australia. 197 00:08:32,940 --> 00:08:35,020 "I want to learn the highest standards." 198 00:08:35,020 --> 00:08:35,260 "I want to learn the highest Hello? 199 00:08:35,260 --> 00:08:36,620 Hello? 200 00:08:36,620 --> 00:08:36,860 I said to you, "I will do Hello? 201 00:08:36,860 --> 00:08:38,780 I said to you, "I will do anything to work here. 202 00:08:38,780 --> 00:08:41,940 "I'll even clean the bathrooms or, you know, clean the dishes." 203 00:08:41,940 --> 00:08:42,180 "I'll even clean the bathrooms It didn't have to come to that. 204 00:08:42,180 --> 00:08:43,420 It didn't have to come to that. 205 00:08:43,420 --> 00:08:43,660 The kind of level of enthusiasm that you brought It didn't have to come to that. 206 00:08:43,660 --> 00:08:46,380 The kind of level of enthusiasm that you brought 207 00:08:46,380 --> 00:08:46,620 was the thing that got you the job. that you brought 208 00:08:46,620 --> 00:08:47,820 was the thing that got you the job. 209 00:08:47,820 --> 00:08:51,220 And what was brilliant is you brought that enthusiasm every day. 210 00:08:51,220 --> 00:08:51,500 And what was brilliant is you brought that enthusiasm every day. I could see that you were going to be a leader. 211 00:08:51,500 --> 00:08:54,140 I could see that you were going to be a leader. 212 00:08:54,140 --> 00:08:57,540 Kylie's been with me for years now, working at Rockpool. 213 00:08:57,540 --> 00:09:00,300 KYLIE: Neil taught me how to run a commercial kitchen. 214 00:09:00,300 --> 00:09:02,900 The black bean is really nice and simple to put together. 215 00:09:02,900 --> 00:09:03,180 He opened my eyes to the beautiful world of good-quality salt, The black bean is really nice and simple to put together. 216 00:09:03,180 --> 00:09:07,620 He opened my eyes to the beautiful world of good-quality salt, 217 00:09:07,620 --> 00:09:07,860 He opened my eyes to the beautiful good-quality olive oil. 218 00:09:07,860 --> 00:09:09,340 good-quality olive oil. 219 00:09:09,340 --> 00:09:09,580 good-quality olive oil. What does a fresh, ripe tomato look and taste like? 220 00:09:09,580 --> 00:09:12,820 What does a fresh, ripe tomato look and taste like? 221 00:09:14,220 --> 00:09:17,100 Growing up, we had Chinese food every night, 222 00:09:17,100 --> 00:09:21,300 so my whole mind just blew open, and it was very, very exciting. 223 00:09:21,300 --> 00:09:23,380 Kwongie. Remember you used to call me Kwongie? 224 00:09:23,380 --> 00:09:23,620 Kwongie. Remember you used I used to call you Kwongie a lot. 225 00:09:23,620 --> 00:09:25,380 I used to call you Kwongie a lot. 226 00:09:25,380 --> 00:09:25,620 "Kwongie, do you know I used to call you Kwongie a lot. 227 00:09:25,620 --> 00:09:27,860 "Kwongie, do you know how lucky you are 228 00:09:27,860 --> 00:09:28,100 "Kwongie, do you know "to be born into Chinese heritage?" 229 00:09:28,100 --> 00:09:30,500 "to be born into Chinese heritage?" 230 00:09:30,500 --> 00:09:34,100 And you said to me that's one of your favourite cuisines in the world. 231 00:09:34,100 --> 00:09:36,820 And that really had a profound impact on me. 232 00:09:36,820 --> 00:09:37,060 And that really had It gave me confidence. 233 00:09:37,060 --> 00:09:39,300 It gave me confidence. 234 00:09:39,300 --> 00:09:43,060 Two years in the kitchen and then head chef at Rockpool. 235 00:09:43,060 --> 00:09:45,700 Brilliant career. The start of a brilliant career. 236 00:09:48,260 --> 00:09:50,660 KYLIE: I worked with Neil for six years, 237 00:09:50,660 --> 00:09:50,900 KYLIE: I worked with Neil and then I looked up Bill Granger. 238 00:09:50,900 --> 00:09:53,340 and then I looked up Bill Granger. 239 00:09:53,340 --> 00:09:55,580 I ended up becoming Bill's head chef, 240 00:09:55,580 --> 00:09:57,340 and it was completely wonderful. 241 00:09:58,620 --> 00:10:01,380 Bill just lit up every room that he was in, 242 00:10:01,380 --> 00:10:04,820 and he was a very, very special human being. 243 00:10:04,820 --> 00:10:07,980 So, that led to the opening of Billy Kwong. 244 00:10:10,660 --> 00:10:14,740 PAULINE: I'd go to the restaurant, and I was Kylie's critique. 245 00:10:14,740 --> 00:10:20,340 I would say to her, "Kylie, I think that salt's a bit heavy-handed." 246 00:10:21,580 --> 00:10:25,020 I thought, well, if a mother can't tell her, then nobody can. 247 00:10:25,020 --> 00:10:26,340 And who taught her how to cook anyway? 248 00:10:26,340 --> 00:10:26,620 "Alright, Mum, I'll tell... I'll tell the chef," she'd say. And who taught her how to cook anyway? 249 00:10:26,620 --> 00:10:29,860 "Alright, Mum, I'll tell... I'll tell the chef," she'd say. 250 00:10:33,700 --> 00:10:35,980 Hey, you're going to table three. 251 00:10:35,980 --> 00:10:38,620 KYLIE: After a year, I bought Bill out. 252 00:10:38,620 --> 00:10:41,860 He was just about to launch his first book, 253 00:10:41,860 --> 00:10:45,020 and he went on that whole incredible journey. 254 00:10:45,020 --> 00:10:49,100 And what I wanted to do was just go deeper into Billy Kwong. 255 00:10:51,780 --> 00:10:54,460 Table five - scallops, please. 256 00:10:54,460 --> 00:10:59,380 MAGGIE: The Australian food scene was dominated by male chefs. 257 00:10:59,380 --> 00:11:00,580 Don't call me Chef, I hate that! 258 00:11:00,580 --> 00:11:03,180 My name's Kylie. My name's Kylie. 259 00:11:03,180 --> 00:11:03,420 When she started doing those wonderful television shows My name's Kylie. My name's Kylie. 260 00:11:03,420 --> 00:11:07,460 When she started doing those wonderful television shows 261 00:11:07,460 --> 00:11:09,220 and the cookbooks that went with them, 262 00:11:09,220 --> 00:11:09,460 and the cookbooks that went with them, that just shot her to fame. 263 00:11:09,460 --> 00:11:12,460 that just shot her to fame. 264 00:11:12,460 --> 00:11:14,380 Can you hear that? It's so delicious. 265 00:11:15,940 --> 00:11:18,180 MAN: We're talking about Kylie Kwong, 266 00:11:18,180 --> 00:11:21,380 simultaneously a traditionalist, food innovator, 267 00:11:21,380 --> 00:11:21,620 simultaneously a traditionalist, celebrity chef and definitely 268 00:11:21,620 --> 00:11:23,460 celebrity chef and definitely 269 00:11:23,460 --> 00:11:26,020 part of this country's new culinary breed. 270 00:11:26,020 --> 00:11:28,620 In my wok I've got Sichuan peppercorns and sea salt. 271 00:11:28,620 --> 00:11:28,860 In my wok I've got Sichuan You should smell it. It's incredible. 272 00:11:28,860 --> 00:11:30,380 You should smell it. It's incredible. 273 00:11:30,380 --> 00:11:34,260 PAULINE: Watching Kylie become a celebrity was almost surreal. 274 00:11:34,260 --> 00:11:36,020 This is a live mud crab. 275 00:11:36,020 --> 00:11:37,620 I'm a little bit... 276 00:11:37,620 --> 00:11:38,980 I'd never achieved those heights. 277 00:11:38,980 --> 00:11:39,220 I don't think anybody I'd never achieved those heights. 278 00:11:39,220 --> 00:11:40,900 I don't think anybody in our family had. 279 00:11:40,900 --> 00:11:41,140 I don't think anybody Listen to this. 280 00:11:41,140 --> 00:11:42,100 Listen to this. 281 00:11:42,100 --> 00:11:44,100 Isn't that the most beautiful sound you've ever heard? 282 00:11:44,100 --> 00:11:46,660 KYLIE: There were opportunities coming in the door 283 00:11:46,660 --> 00:11:50,300 left, right and centre, and I wanted to do it all. 284 00:11:50,300 --> 00:11:51,820 And we did it all. (LAUGHS) 285 00:11:53,220 --> 00:11:56,380 GEORGE: What's it like when your restaurant becomes trendy? 286 00:11:56,380 --> 00:11:58,380 KYLIE: When you get egotistical about anything, 287 00:11:58,380 --> 00:12:01,380 that's when you lose the magic in your art. 288 00:12:01,380 --> 00:12:03,620 It doesn't have that special touch because you can't see it anymore. 289 00:12:03,620 --> 00:12:05,940 Do you see it as art? Well, it is. Cooking's art. 290 00:12:05,940 --> 00:12:06,180 Do you see it as art? It's very creative. 291 00:12:06,180 --> 00:12:06,940 It's very creative. 292 00:12:06,940 --> 00:12:09,740 Snapper with ginger and shallot. 293 00:12:09,740 --> 00:12:12,140 PAULINE: Kylie's father was so proud of her, 294 00:12:12,140 --> 00:12:14,740 and we'd go for dinner at Billy Kwong's. 295 00:12:14,740 --> 00:12:14,980 and we'd go for dinner And he'd sit there and he'd... 296 00:12:14,980 --> 00:12:16,740 And he'd sit there and he'd... 297 00:12:16,740 --> 00:12:20,220 People next to him, he'd say, "Are you liking the food? 298 00:12:20,220 --> 00:12:21,980 "You like it here? That's my daughter." 299 00:12:23,980 --> 00:12:28,660 When we found that Kylie's father had terminal cancer, 300 00:12:28,660 --> 00:12:31,660 it was a very defining time for Kylie. 301 00:12:33,260 --> 00:12:35,620 We were all there holding him when he took his last breath. 302 00:12:38,700 --> 00:12:42,220 KYLIE: I always felt, and I feel to this day, 303 00:12:42,220 --> 00:12:45,740 content about Dad and my relationship. 304 00:12:46,820 --> 00:12:48,660 We made our peace. 305 00:12:52,460 --> 00:12:56,060 I had been working so hard for all of those years, 306 00:12:56,060 --> 00:12:58,460 and, you know, the double shifts and the late nights 307 00:12:58,460 --> 00:12:59,620 that come with being a chef. 308 00:13:00,980 --> 00:13:05,460 I started to feel really, really down. 309 00:13:05,460 --> 00:13:07,980 It was a medical episode of depression. 310 00:13:10,620 --> 00:13:12,940 WOMAN: I've known Kylie for 20 years. 311 00:13:12,940 --> 00:13:18,340 She came to my office for therapy because she was very burnt out. 312 00:13:19,380 --> 00:13:25,060 Kylie knew that I was a Buddhist teacher as well, and so it evolved 313 00:13:25,060 --> 00:13:25,300 Kylie knew that I was a Buddhist into Kylie taking on board 314 00:13:25,300 --> 00:13:27,820 into Kylie taking on board 315 00:13:27,820 --> 00:13:28,060 into Kylie taking on board practices of mindfulness and meditation practices. 316 00:13:28,060 --> 00:13:31,340 practices of mindfulness and meditation practices. 317 00:13:34,540 --> 00:13:36,940 KYLIE: The word Buddha means "the awakened one". 318 00:13:36,940 --> 00:13:41,220 So Buddhism for me is about being awake, being in the present moment. 319 00:13:41,220 --> 00:13:43,380 Because when we're in the present moment, 320 00:13:43,380 --> 00:13:43,620 Because when we're in that is when we're truly happy. 321 00:13:43,620 --> 00:13:45,420 that is when we're truly happy. 322 00:13:51,220 --> 00:13:55,260 NELL: The first time I met Kylie was at an exhibition opening in Sydney. 323 00:13:57,060 --> 00:13:59,300 I just could not stop thinking about her, 324 00:13:59,300 --> 00:14:00,460 and I didn't even know her that well. 325 00:14:01,740 --> 00:14:04,940 KYLIE: I'm like, "Yeah, why don't you come to my restaurant?" 326 00:14:04,940 --> 00:14:07,180 She came in to the door and she said, 327 00:14:07,180 --> 00:14:07,460 "I just want you to know, I haven't read any of your books She came in to the door and she said, 328 00:14:07,460 --> 00:14:10,140 "I just want you to know, I haven't read any of your books 329 00:14:10,140 --> 00:14:11,580 "and I haven't seen any of your TV shows." 330 00:14:11,580 --> 00:14:11,860 "and I haven't seen any of your TV shows." And I'm like, "Oh, my God, I love it." 331 00:14:11,860 --> 00:14:13,180 And I'm like, "Oh, my God, I love it." 332 00:14:13,180 --> 00:14:16,460 I said, "I love that," because, I mean, that was so refreshing. 333 00:14:16,460 --> 00:14:18,780 And, um, she said, "I've never seen your art." 334 00:14:18,780 --> 00:14:21,220 And then we were like, "Oh, great, we can really just be friends 335 00:14:21,220 --> 00:14:21,460 And then we were like, "Oh, great, "from a really fresh place." 336 00:14:21,460 --> 00:14:23,940 "from a really fresh place." 337 00:14:26,300 --> 00:14:31,620 A week later, I invited her over to my apartment for dinner. 338 00:14:32,740 --> 00:14:36,700 And then I think the next week she moved in and has never left. 339 00:14:39,940 --> 00:14:43,380 Nell and I got together in 2006, and for the first five years 340 00:14:43,380 --> 00:14:45,780 of our relationship, when we would walk down the street, 341 00:14:45,780 --> 00:14:46,020 of our relationship, when I still wouldn't hold her hand. 342 00:14:46,020 --> 00:14:47,900 I still wouldn't hold her hand. 343 00:14:49,140 --> 00:14:52,020 I had so many irrational fears. 344 00:14:52,980 --> 00:14:57,140 If they find out I'm gay, they won't come to my restaurant anymore. 345 00:14:57,140 --> 00:15:00,500 All of these really harsh voices in my mind, 346 00:15:00,500 --> 00:15:00,740 All of these really harsh judging, judging, judging. 347 00:15:00,740 --> 00:15:02,180 judging, judging, judging. 348 00:15:04,340 --> 00:15:07,460 I came out to my family and friends when I was 19, 349 00:15:07,460 --> 00:15:12,980 but it wasn't until about 23 years later 350 00:15:12,980 --> 00:15:16,060 that I actually came out publicly. 351 00:15:16,060 --> 00:15:20,740 And I can thank Nell for that because she really encouraged me. 352 00:15:22,220 --> 00:15:24,660 NELL: The relief she felt was enormous, 353 00:15:24,660 --> 00:15:29,380 and then she realised how powerful her speaking as a woman, 354 00:15:29,380 --> 00:15:32,580 as an Australian-born Chinese woman was. 355 00:15:32,580 --> 00:15:36,540 And, yeah, then she really embraced that role. 356 00:15:37,900 --> 00:15:39,620 It's a beautiful garden. 357 00:15:39,620 --> 00:15:41,660 You smell everything? Clarence has done such a great job. 358 00:15:41,660 --> 00:15:43,900 Yeah, look at the flowers. Yeah. 359 00:15:43,900 --> 00:15:46,220 I reached a point where I really felt very excited 360 00:15:46,220 --> 00:15:49,660 about going deeper into my cooking practice. 361 00:15:49,660 --> 00:15:54,380 I wanted to explore and discover new ways of being and thinking, 362 00:15:54,380 --> 00:15:54,620 I wanted to explore and discover and really carve out my own style. 363 00:15:54,620 --> 00:15:57,500 and really carve out my own style. 364 00:15:57,500 --> 00:16:00,340 I make mint sauce, and I put it on pork. 365 00:16:00,340 --> 00:16:02,580 Oh, beautiful. Does Andrew love that? 366 00:16:02,580 --> 00:16:04,860 MAGGIE: Kylie has been a trailblazer, 367 00:16:04,860 --> 00:16:05,100 MAGGIE: Kylie has been and when she went on the path 368 00:16:05,100 --> 00:16:06,980 and when she went on the path 369 00:16:06,980 --> 00:16:10,980 of wanting to know so much more about Indigenous ingredients, 370 00:16:10,980 --> 00:16:11,220 of wanting to know so much more she became so excited. 371 00:16:11,220 --> 00:16:13,460 she became so excited. 372 00:16:13,460 --> 00:16:15,100 Leave the stalk there. 373 00:16:15,100 --> 00:16:18,820 I wanted to learn from the traditional owners of the land. 374 00:16:18,820 --> 00:16:19,060 I wanted to learn from I wanted to learn from the best. 375 00:16:19,060 --> 00:16:21,140 I wanted to learn from the best. 376 00:16:21,140 --> 00:16:22,500 Give it a thorough wash 377 00:16:22,500 --> 00:16:25,140 and cut it into strips and put it in your salad. 378 00:16:25,140 --> 00:16:26,740 Beautiful. But it's very... 379 00:16:26,740 --> 00:16:28,580 Auntie Beryl is a proud Gamilaraay woman. 380 00:16:28,580 --> 00:16:33,260 She is a very highly respected Redfern elder 381 00:16:33,260 --> 00:16:36,500 and she runs her own catering company at the age of 81. 382 00:16:36,500 --> 00:16:38,660 And what is it? Which ones are the ripe ones? 383 00:16:38,660 --> 00:16:40,740 The dark ones. Right. 384 00:16:40,740 --> 00:16:45,100 NIGELLA: She wants to absorb a culture and involve the community. 385 00:16:45,100 --> 00:16:50,020 And all too often it can be an exploitative relationship, 386 00:16:50,020 --> 00:16:50,260 and it certainly isn't with Kylie. And all too often it can be an exploitative relationship, 387 00:16:50,260 --> 00:16:51,620 and it certainly isn't with Kylie. 388 00:16:51,620 --> 00:16:55,540 And I think that that's important to state. 389 00:16:55,540 --> 00:16:55,820 And I think that that's important to state. We've known each other now for, I think, 14 years, 390 00:16:55,820 --> 00:16:59,340 We've known each other now for, I think, 14 years, 391 00:16:59,340 --> 00:17:03,260 and you've been through a lot of things with me in my life. 392 00:17:03,260 --> 00:17:03,500 and you've been through a lot of Key moments. 393 00:17:03,500 --> 00:17:04,580 Key moments. 394 00:17:04,580 --> 00:17:04,820 This is the extended part of my family and her family, Key moments. 395 00:17:04,820 --> 00:17:08,340 This is the extended part of my family and her family, 396 00:17:08,340 --> 00:17:11,940 and we'll remain friends for the rest of our days 397 00:17:11,940 --> 00:17:12,180 and we'll remain friends for the rest of our days because we are foodies. 398 00:17:12,180 --> 00:17:13,620 because we are foodies. 399 00:17:18,060 --> 00:17:19,340 Hello. 400 00:17:19,340 --> 00:17:21,500 I come from a very big family, 401 00:17:21,500 --> 00:17:21,740 and so I always saw myself I come from a very big family, 402 00:17:21,740 --> 00:17:23,980 and so I always saw myself as a mother 403 00:17:23,980 --> 00:17:25,300 and I always wanted to have children. 404 00:17:25,300 --> 00:17:27,700 You? Very. Always. 405 00:17:27,700 --> 00:17:30,100 When we fell pregnant, we were overjoyed. 406 00:17:30,100 --> 00:17:30,340 When we fell pregnant, It just... It felt very natural. 407 00:17:30,340 --> 00:17:32,700 It just... It felt very natural. 408 00:17:32,700 --> 00:17:35,100 Kylie's very, very family oriented. 409 00:17:35,100 --> 00:17:37,020 Pork dumplings, coleslaw, fried rice. 410 00:17:37,020 --> 00:17:37,260 Pork dumplings, coleslaw, All your favourites. 411 00:17:37,260 --> 00:17:38,660 All your favourites. 412 00:17:38,660 --> 00:17:38,900 PAULINE: So Nell would be All your favourites. 413 00:17:38,900 --> 00:17:40,540 PAULINE: So Nell would be the mother. 414 00:17:40,540 --> 00:17:43,660 And of course, Kylie would be the spoiler. 415 00:17:45,820 --> 00:17:49,020 It was the happiest time of our lives. 416 00:17:49,020 --> 00:17:49,260 It was the happiest time We couldn't believe it. 417 00:17:49,260 --> 00:17:50,700 We couldn't believe it. 418 00:17:51,700 --> 00:17:57,220 Nell was just absolutely beaming and so happy and so well. 419 00:17:57,220 --> 00:17:57,460 Nell was just absolutely beaming I've made this especially for you. 420 00:17:57,460 --> 00:17:59,140 I've made this especially for you. 421 00:17:59,140 --> 00:18:00,580 Sweet. 422 00:18:00,580 --> 00:18:00,820 I of course loved it because, you know, cooking is my love language. Sweet. 423 00:18:00,820 --> 00:18:03,780 I of course loved it because, you know, cooking is my love language. 424 00:18:03,780 --> 00:18:05,660 And I just want to feed you, feed you, feed you. 425 00:18:05,660 --> 00:18:05,900 And I just want to feed you, feed you, feed you. So you can imagine my delight 426 00:18:05,900 --> 00:18:08,860 So you can imagine my delight 427 00:18:08,860 --> 00:18:12,500 thinking about what to feed my two beloveds every single day. 428 00:18:16,900 --> 00:18:20,420 I can't remember exactly when we decided to call him Lucky, 429 00:18:20,420 --> 00:18:23,460 but it kind of just came to us organically. 430 00:18:23,460 --> 00:18:27,740 I think, you know, that sounds like the right name for our child. 431 00:18:32,660 --> 00:18:35,500 In the later stages of her pregnancy, 432 00:18:35,500 --> 00:18:38,340 we sat down to eat dinner, 433 00:18:38,340 --> 00:18:41,580 and then within two minutes, she got up, 434 00:18:41,580 --> 00:18:44,860 and all of a sudden, she's like, "Oh my goodness, what's happening?" 435 00:18:44,860 --> 00:18:45,100 and all of a sudden, she's like, Her waters had broken. 436 00:18:45,100 --> 00:18:46,500 Her waters had broken. 437 00:18:47,620 --> 00:18:52,260 And they shouldn't have. It was far too early for that. 438 00:18:52,260 --> 00:18:52,500 And they shouldn't have. It was far too early. 439 00:18:52,500 --> 00:18:53,660 It was far too early. 440 00:18:55,940 --> 00:18:59,580 We got to Randwick Women's Hospital, 441 00:18:59,580 --> 00:19:04,540 and within ten minutes of the obstetrician examining Nell... 442 00:19:05,620 --> 00:19:08,220 ..she looked up at the pair of us. 443 00:19:08,220 --> 00:19:10,700 And I'll never forget the look in her eye. 444 00:19:11,860 --> 00:19:16,220 And she said, "I'm really sorry, Nell, but your waters have broken. 445 00:19:16,220 --> 00:19:20,900 "And what will happen now is you will go into spontaneous labour. 446 00:19:21,900 --> 00:19:23,380 "And the baby won't survive." 447 00:19:26,260 --> 00:19:27,620 It was a nightmare. 448 00:19:28,980 --> 00:19:31,780 And it was just so deeply traumatic. 449 00:19:34,780 --> 00:19:38,460 Well, the first person I call is Subhana. 450 00:19:38,460 --> 00:19:41,620 She had been through the whole pregnancy journey with us. 451 00:19:41,620 --> 00:19:41,860 She had been through the whole She also used to be a midwife. 452 00:19:41,860 --> 00:19:44,500 She also used to be a midwife. 453 00:19:44,500 --> 00:19:47,060 But I know the most, apart from just 454 00:19:47,060 --> 00:19:49,700 you being there for us on every level 455 00:19:49,700 --> 00:19:52,340 is when you came into the hospital, and... 456 00:19:53,460 --> 00:19:55,900 ..facilitated a space where 457 00:19:55,900 --> 00:19:59,580 we could say everything we wanted to say to Lucky 458 00:19:59,580 --> 00:19:59,820 we could say everything we wanted while he was in my tummy still. 459 00:19:59,820 --> 00:20:02,140 while he was in my tummy still. 460 00:20:02,140 --> 00:20:04,060 SUBHANA: Yes, I remember... 461 00:20:04,060 --> 00:20:05,780 ..I remember your beautiful belly 462 00:20:05,780 --> 00:20:08,740 and, you know, putting our hands on your belly 463 00:20:08,740 --> 00:20:13,380 and just radiating that kindness and compassion. 464 00:20:14,340 --> 00:20:17,980 I said how proud I was of him, 465 00:20:17,980 --> 00:20:24,540 and I said to him that I was so honoured to be his mother. 466 00:20:24,540 --> 00:20:27,380 And I remember saying, you know, like, 467 00:20:27,380 --> 00:20:30,660 even though I am saying goodbye to you in this lifetime, 468 00:20:30,660 --> 00:20:33,260 I know that you will always be with us. 469 00:20:34,380 --> 00:20:37,300 Kylie and I had been to hell and back 470 00:20:37,300 --> 00:20:40,420 through my waters breaking and being in hospital 471 00:20:40,420 --> 00:20:43,460 and a very prolonged and painful labour. 472 00:20:43,460 --> 00:20:43,700 and a very prolonged And... But the moment he came out... 473 00:20:43,700 --> 00:20:46,100 And... But the moment he came out... 474 00:20:46,100 --> 00:20:46,340 And we didn't even know he was And... But the moment he came out... 475 00:20:46,340 --> 00:20:49,460 And we didn't even know he was a boy, but I knew he was a boy. 476 00:20:49,460 --> 00:20:49,700 And we didn't even know he was ..this moment, wonderful moment. 477 00:20:49,700 --> 00:20:52,380 ..this moment, wonderful moment. 478 00:20:52,380 --> 00:20:55,500 I think that's...my proudest moment in my life. 479 00:20:57,660 --> 00:20:59,660 Nell said to me, and I'll never forget it... 480 00:20:59,660 --> 00:21:03,500 She said, "We must never lose the love that made Lucky." 481 00:21:03,500 --> 00:21:06,540 And I was just in awe and remained to be in awe 482 00:21:06,540 --> 00:21:06,780 And I was just in awe at your incredible strength 483 00:21:06,780 --> 00:21:08,660 at your incredible strength 484 00:21:08,660 --> 00:21:08,900 that you had the strength to say... at your incredible strength 485 00:21:08,900 --> 00:21:12,500 that you had the strength to say... and the clarity to say that 486 00:21:12,500 --> 00:21:12,740 that you had the strength to say... during the darkest hour. 487 00:21:12,740 --> 00:21:15,700 during the darkest hour. 488 00:21:17,900 --> 00:21:21,620 PAULINE: It was devastating to watch Kylie and Nell go through that pain. 489 00:21:22,940 --> 00:21:27,860 I think that that's when the Buddhism played a very big part 490 00:21:27,860 --> 00:21:29,740 in helping both of them. 491 00:21:31,740 --> 00:21:36,740 I think there was a hope that maybe they could have another child. 492 00:21:38,020 --> 00:21:43,180 We did try eventually, but that actually didn't work out. 493 00:21:43,180 --> 00:21:44,620 So we just let that go. 494 00:21:48,340 --> 00:21:50,180 Grief is an overwhelming energy, 495 00:21:50,180 --> 00:21:52,420 and the most important thing we have to do 496 00:21:52,420 --> 00:21:52,660 and the most important thing is give it a channel of expression. 497 00:21:52,660 --> 00:21:56,380 is give it a channel of expression. 498 00:21:57,780 --> 00:22:00,700 What did I do? I opened up a big restaurant in Potts Point. 499 00:22:00,700 --> 00:22:00,940 What did I do? I opened up Big energy, big project. 500 00:22:00,940 --> 00:22:03,460 Big energy, big project. 501 00:22:03,460 --> 00:22:05,260 Hi, I'm Kylie Kwong. 502 00:22:05,260 --> 00:22:08,260 Welcome to my new Billy Kwong restaurant in Potts Point. 503 00:22:08,260 --> 00:22:09,540 Come inside and have a look. 504 00:22:10,940 --> 00:22:13,700 SUBHANA: It was like her replacement baby. 505 00:22:14,660 --> 00:22:19,220 And it was slightly manic. 506 00:22:21,540 --> 00:22:25,620 She definitely channelled all her grief and all her love 507 00:22:25,620 --> 00:22:25,860 She definitely channelled into her workplace, 508 00:22:25,860 --> 00:22:28,380 into her workplace, 509 00:22:28,380 --> 00:22:28,620 into her workplace, and made it a beautiful space for people to come. 510 00:22:28,620 --> 00:22:31,020 and made it a beautiful space for people to come. 511 00:22:34,260 --> 00:22:37,540 And then I threw myself into my art practice. 512 00:22:40,300 --> 00:22:44,220 I made a painting from the text from Lucky's autopsy 513 00:22:44,220 --> 00:22:44,460 I made a painting from the text transcribed into the painting. 514 00:22:44,460 --> 00:22:46,340 transcribed into the painting. 515 00:22:50,740 --> 00:22:55,620 It was a way of me having intimacy with his body, 516 00:22:55,620 --> 00:22:55,860 It was a way of me having intimacy because that's all I really had. 517 00:22:55,860 --> 00:22:57,100 because that's all I really had. 518 00:22:59,860 --> 00:23:03,180 It's, you know, a lifetime of letting go, 519 00:23:03,180 --> 00:23:06,420 and letting go of the artworks is a really good practice. 520 00:23:09,740 --> 00:23:14,020 Some people break apart following a loss of a child, 521 00:23:14,020 --> 00:23:19,100 but Kylie and Nell didn't do that. 522 00:23:20,580 --> 00:23:25,700 It was my 50th year, and I was determined to 523 00:23:25,700 --> 00:23:27,300 get married to Nell before I turned 50. 524 00:23:27,300 --> 00:23:29,060 I thought, "Come on, just get it together." 525 00:23:31,220 --> 00:23:35,580 It was just something that we didn't need to do, but we wanted to do, 526 00:23:35,580 --> 00:23:39,420 and we just had a very small ceremony with both of our parents. 527 00:23:39,420 --> 00:23:39,660 and we just had a very small And Subhana was the celebrant. 528 00:23:39,660 --> 00:23:41,020 And Subhana was the celebrant. 529 00:23:42,500 --> 00:23:44,740 PAULINE: Kylie and Nell getting married was lovely. 530 00:23:44,740 --> 00:23:47,180 I think it was lovely for me too, 531 00:23:47,180 --> 00:23:47,420 because I got to get the wedding, my daughter's wedding, I think it was lovely for me too, 532 00:23:47,420 --> 00:23:49,820 because I got to get the wedding, my daughter's wedding, 533 00:23:49,820 --> 00:23:50,060 because I got to get the wedding, that, you know, I always wanted. 534 00:23:50,060 --> 00:23:51,300 that, you know, I always wanted. 535 00:23:52,340 --> 00:23:56,100 It was... It was a pity that her father never saw it. 536 00:23:56,100 --> 00:23:57,140 He would have loved Nell, 537 00:23:57,140 --> 00:24:00,140 and he would have loved to have known that Kylie had a partner 538 00:24:00,140 --> 00:24:00,380 and he would have loved to have that she cared so much about. 539 00:24:00,380 --> 00:24:02,020 that she cared so much about. 540 00:24:04,220 --> 00:24:07,820 (HUBBUB) 541 00:24:09,220 --> 00:24:12,980 NIGELLA: By the time I got to eat at Billy Kwong, 542 00:24:12,980 --> 00:24:13,220 NIGELLA: By the time I got to eat it was a really huge restaurant. 543 00:24:13,220 --> 00:24:15,460 it was a really huge restaurant. 544 00:24:16,700 --> 00:24:18,940 For Kylie, everything has to come from her, 545 00:24:18,940 --> 00:24:22,220 which is something I feel as well - I understand that - 546 00:24:22,220 --> 00:24:23,500 but it's exhausting. 547 00:24:25,780 --> 00:24:28,460 There came a point where Kylie realised 548 00:24:28,460 --> 00:24:31,340 that having the big restaurant meant she was missing out on so much, 549 00:24:31,340 --> 00:24:31,580 that having the big restaurant meant particularly time with her mother, 550 00:24:31,580 --> 00:24:33,540 particularly time with her mother, 551 00:24:33,540 --> 00:24:34,980 and less time with me. 552 00:24:34,980 --> 00:24:37,620 We only really had public holidays off. 553 00:24:38,740 --> 00:24:41,580 After the Lucky tragedy, I promised myself 554 00:24:41,580 --> 00:24:45,380 that I would never be going that fast again in life 555 00:24:45,380 --> 00:24:46,460 that I miss so many moments 556 00:24:46,460 --> 00:24:49,540 because I was too busy working, working, working. 557 00:24:49,540 --> 00:24:51,460 I really thought to myself, "Do you know what? 558 00:24:51,460 --> 00:24:51,700 I really thought to myself, "You've got to change something. 559 00:24:51,700 --> 00:24:53,020 "You've got to change something. 560 00:24:53,020 --> 00:24:55,260 "This is... This is unsustainable." 561 00:24:56,500 --> 00:25:00,260 I close down Billy Kwong after an epic 19 years, 562 00:25:00,260 --> 00:25:00,500 I close down Billy Kwong and our last day of service 563 00:25:00,500 --> 00:25:02,260 and our last day of service 564 00:25:02,260 --> 00:25:03,740 was in June 2019. 565 00:25:05,420 --> 00:25:11,660 I wanted to go deeper into the notion of what nourishment truly means, 566 00:25:11,660 --> 00:25:14,260 and that's what this place is all about. 567 00:25:15,420 --> 00:25:19,220 A much smaller eatery to have a much more sustainable lifestyle 568 00:25:19,220 --> 00:25:19,460 A much smaller eatery to have Monday to Friday daytimes. 569 00:25:19,460 --> 00:25:21,340 Monday to Friday daytimes. 570 00:25:22,580 --> 00:25:26,900 MAGGIE: It was all about contracting to give her life back 571 00:25:26,900 --> 00:25:27,140 MAGGIE: It was all about contracting so she could continue to nurture. 572 00:25:27,140 --> 00:25:29,580 so she could continue to nurture. 573 00:25:30,580 --> 00:25:34,540 Because you can't nurture when you're so exhausted. 574 00:25:34,540 --> 00:25:34,780 Because you can't nurture William is here... 575 00:25:34,780 --> 00:25:36,700 William is here... 576 00:25:36,700 --> 00:25:36,940 I was thinking of a name William is here... 577 00:25:36,940 --> 00:25:40,100 I was thinking of a name for this new place. 578 00:25:40,100 --> 00:25:43,740 Then one day I suddenly thought, "Oh, what about Lucky Kwong?" 579 00:25:43,740 --> 00:25:48,580 Then I discussed it with Nell, and much to my delight, 580 00:25:48,580 --> 00:25:53,140 she said, "I'm ready to put his name out in the world like this." 581 00:25:55,420 --> 00:25:59,820 And it's such a positive affirmation of A, that he existed, 582 00:25:59,820 --> 00:26:02,780 and B, just the word Lucky is positive and uplifting. 583 00:26:03,940 --> 00:26:08,620 Many of you may know my wife, Nell. She's a contemporary artist. 584 00:26:08,620 --> 00:26:12,060 If you look above, you'll see this beautiful installation. 585 00:26:12,060 --> 00:26:14,580 And it's called Ghost Song For Lucky Kwong. 586 00:26:16,220 --> 00:26:18,820 If people can access our story, 587 00:26:18,820 --> 00:26:22,300 I hope it gives them more spaciousness 588 00:26:22,300 --> 00:26:25,260 to say the name of their baby that they've lost 589 00:26:25,260 --> 00:26:30,340 and...and bring that energy into their life in any way they can. 590 00:26:33,180 --> 00:26:37,860 NIGELLA: The loss has really given way to this sense of nurturing. 591 00:26:37,860 --> 00:26:38,100 NIGELLA: The loss has really given Enjoying the food? 592 00:26:38,100 --> 00:26:39,340 Enjoying the food? 593 00:26:39,340 --> 00:26:40,980 But I think it's more than that. 594 00:26:40,980 --> 00:26:46,700 I think that it fires her up with a sense of what's important. 595 00:26:46,700 --> 00:26:46,940 I think that it fires her up All good, Auntie Margaret? 596 00:26:46,940 --> 00:26:49,020 All good, Auntie Margaret? 597 00:26:49,020 --> 00:26:50,340 He's like my spirit guide. 598 00:26:50,340 --> 00:26:52,820 He is saying to me all the time, Lucky's saying, 599 00:26:52,820 --> 00:26:54,500 "Mum, we have to be a force for good." 600 00:26:54,500 --> 00:26:54,740 "Mum, we have to be And I'm like, OK, let's do it. 601 00:26:54,740 --> 00:26:56,380 And I'm like, OK, let's do it. 602 00:26:57,340 --> 00:26:58,620 How are you? WOMAN: Good. How are you? 603 00:26:58,620 --> 00:26:58,860 How are you? Yeah, good, good, good. 604 00:26:58,860 --> 00:26:59,860 Yeah, good, good, good. 605 00:26:59,860 --> 00:27:00,860 OK... 606 00:27:00,860 --> 00:27:01,100 For the last several years, I've been OK... 607 00:27:01,100 --> 00:27:04,540 For the last several years, I've been doing lots of community work, 608 00:27:04,540 --> 00:27:07,700 volunteering, packing food hampers for people in need. 609 00:27:07,700 --> 00:27:10,060 Just keep moving along. Yep. Just pack. 610 00:27:10,060 --> 00:27:12,020 Addi Road is a local community organisation 611 00:27:12,020 --> 00:27:12,260 Addi Road is a local community that focuses on food security. 612 00:27:12,260 --> 00:27:14,500 that focuses on food security. 613 00:27:14,500 --> 00:27:16,180 Keep going. Let's keep going. 614 00:27:16,180 --> 00:27:17,540 Good. Yep. 615 00:27:17,540 --> 00:27:17,780 I think Kylie could absolutely coordinate Good. Yep. 616 00:27:17,780 --> 00:27:21,180 I think Kylie could absolutely coordinate 617 00:27:21,180 --> 00:27:23,780 any disaster anywhere in the world. 618 00:27:23,780 --> 00:27:24,020 any disaster anywhere in the world. Just one cereal box. Oh, one cereal box. 619 00:27:24,020 --> 00:27:25,660 Just one cereal box. Oh, one cereal box. 620 00:27:25,660 --> 00:27:25,900 Just one cereal box. Yep. 621 00:27:25,900 --> 00:27:26,860 Yep. 622 00:27:26,860 --> 00:27:31,380 Kylie said we've got to put culturally specific boxes together 623 00:27:31,380 --> 00:27:35,060 and really target the different communities. 624 00:27:35,060 --> 00:27:36,540 And people were crying 625 00:27:36,540 --> 00:27:39,940 when they looked at the food that they recognised 626 00:27:39,940 --> 00:27:40,180 when they looked at the food because they felt visible. 627 00:27:40,180 --> 00:27:43,060 because they felt visible. 628 00:27:44,780 --> 00:27:48,260 PAULINE: Community work has definitely helped to heal her. 629 00:27:48,260 --> 00:27:49,580 It gives her comfort, I think, 630 00:27:49,580 --> 00:27:52,500 knowing that she's...she's doing some good for other people. 631 00:27:54,500 --> 00:27:58,820 When the focus is not on, you know, 'my' and 'me', 632 00:27:58,820 --> 00:27:59,060 When the focus is not on, when we lean into community, 633 00:27:59,060 --> 00:28:00,380 when we lean into community, 634 00:28:00,380 --> 00:28:03,580 it...it instantly transforms into 'us' and 'we', 635 00:28:03,580 --> 00:28:04,700 and that's where the magic happens. 636 00:28:09,020 --> 00:28:11,340 My life has always been about the restaurant. 637 00:28:11,340 --> 00:28:16,580 I feel like I have given this piece of my life 638 00:28:16,580 --> 00:28:19,100 everything that I possibly can give it. 639 00:28:20,100 --> 00:28:24,620 I'm here to announce the closure of Lucky Kwong 640 00:28:24,620 --> 00:28:27,580 and the ending of my 30-year restaurateur life. 641 00:28:27,580 --> 00:28:29,340 So...it's a pretty big deal. 642 00:28:32,220 --> 00:28:33,900 "Big news. 643 00:28:33,900 --> 00:28:35,300 "Everything changes. 644 00:28:36,300 --> 00:28:39,300 "At the end of June, I am hanging up my restaurateur hat." 645 00:28:41,020 --> 00:28:42,060 Dot dot dot. 646 00:28:43,260 --> 00:28:45,060 I'm nervous. 647 00:28:45,060 --> 00:28:46,780 (LAUGHS) Are we ready? 648 00:28:48,300 --> 00:28:49,620 OK. I'm pressing. 649 00:28:50,940 --> 00:28:51,980 It's posting. 650 00:28:53,860 --> 00:28:56,660 It's done. It's done. 651 00:28:59,340 --> 00:29:01,540 It's done. (LAUGHS) 652 00:29:03,020 --> 00:29:05,500 NELL: This is a really big shift for Kylie. 653 00:29:05,500 --> 00:29:05,740 NELL: This is a really big shift At the core of the change is 654 00:29:05,740 --> 00:29:07,980 At the core of the change is 655 00:29:07,980 --> 00:29:10,060 I think she deep down believes 656 00:29:10,060 --> 00:29:13,500 she can be more powerful and make more positive impact 657 00:29:13,500 --> 00:29:15,540 through the lens of food in the community, 658 00:29:15,540 --> 00:29:18,500 rather than just through the four walls of a restaurant. 659 00:29:22,340 --> 00:29:24,220 Now I want to focus on my support 660 00:29:24,220 --> 00:29:25,900 for the First Nations community 661 00:29:25,900 --> 00:29:26,860 and also the wonderful 662 00:29:26,860 --> 00:29:27,940 multicultural communities 663 00:29:27,940 --> 00:29:29,900 that make up this country. 664 00:29:29,900 --> 00:29:30,140 that make up this country. I'll still be very much connected to the food industry, 665 00:29:30,140 --> 00:29:32,740 I'll still be very much connected to the food industry, 666 00:29:32,740 --> 00:29:34,860 but just I'll be doing it in a different way. 667 00:29:34,860 --> 00:29:37,900 I'm really going to miss having Lucky Kwong takeaway 668 00:29:37,900 --> 00:29:39,420 both at home and at the studio. 669 00:29:40,500 --> 00:29:42,140 You're not going to starve, though. 670 00:29:42,140 --> 00:29:44,540 Would I ever let you starve? 671 00:29:44,540 --> 00:29:47,340 I've been with Kylie nearly 18 years, 672 00:29:47,340 --> 00:29:50,220 and our whole lives have revolved around restaurants, 673 00:29:50,220 --> 00:29:53,700 and it's very exciting that that's not going to be the case anymore. 674 00:29:55,860 --> 00:29:57,700 Lucky will be with me. 675 00:29:57,700 --> 00:30:00,180 We've had a number of conversations about this 676 00:30:00,180 --> 00:30:04,420 and he's like, "Mum, it's OK. You know, I'm going to be with you. 677 00:30:04,420 --> 00:30:05,380 "And I'm really happy for you." 678 00:30:05,380 --> 00:30:09,140 And, you know, he's like, you know, "Let's go." 679 00:30:24,700 --> 00:30:26,660 Can you tell everybody what this is? 680 00:30:30,580 --> 00:30:32,420 (HUBBUB) Everybody! 681 00:30:32,420 --> 00:30:32,660 (HUBBUB) Everybody! (LAUGHTER) 682 00:30:32,660 --> 00:30:34,220 (LAUGHTER) 683 00:30:34,220 --> 00:30:34,420 (ALL TALK AND LAUGH) (LAUGHTER) 684 00:30:34,420 --> 00:30:36,140 (ALL TALK AND LAUGH) 685 00:30:36,140 --> 00:30:37,180 Captions by Red Bee Media 686 00:30:37,180 --> 00:30:38,940 Copyright Australian Broadcasting Corporation