Grylls: MY NAME IS BEAR GRYLLS.
I'VE SERVED WITH THE BRITISH SPECIAL FORCES.
I'VE CLIMBED TO THE SUMMIT OF EVEREST
AND CROSSED THE FROZEN OCEANS OF THE ARCTIC.
NOW I'M TRAVELING THROUGH THE MOJAVE DESERT IN UTAH.
THIS ICONIC LANDSCAPE IS THE MOST DANGEROUS DESERT
IN NORTH AMERICA,
WITH PUNISHING TEMPERATURES
AND SOME OF THE WORLD'S DEADLIEST CREATURES.
SEARCH AND RESCUE LAUNCH 100 MISSIONS A YEAR
LOOKING FOR STRANDED TOURISTS.
NOW I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO SURVIVE HERE.
( HELICOPTER BLADES WHIRRING )
THIS IS THE MOJAVE DESERT --
3,600 SQUARE MILES OF CANYONS, ARCHES, AND SHEER CLIFFS.
EVERY YEAR A MILLION PEOPLE VISIT THIS PARCHED WILDERNESS.
BUT TAKE ONE WRONG TURN,
AND IT'S ALL TOO EASY TO GET LOST FOR GOOD.
I'M ABOUT TO PUT MYSELF IN THE POSITION OF A STRANDED HIKER.
IN A FEW MOMENTS,
THE PILOT'S GONNA DROP ME IN THE MIDDLE OF THIS DESERT,
AND THEN I'LL BE LIKE ANY HIKER WHO GETS LOST,
AND ALL I'VE GOT WITH ME IS A WATER BOTTLE,
A KNIFE, AND A FLINT.
AND I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO SURVIVE
IN ONE OF THE TOUGHEST PLACES ON EARTH.
MY CAMERA CREW WILL FOLLOW ME
AS I TRY TO FIND A WAY OUT OF THIS LANDSCAPE.
THE THERMAL UPDRAFTS ARE SO POWERFUL HERE
THAT IT'S TOO DANGEROUS TO LAND THE CHOPPER.
SO THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY DOWN -- TO ABSEIL.
WE'RE HOVERING AT ABOUT 100 FEET NOW ABOVE THE DESERT,
AND EVEN FROM THIS HEIGHT,
I CAN FEEL THE HEAT OFF THE DESERT FLOOR.
IT'S LIKE AN OVEN DOWN THERE.
I'VE DONE THIS BEFORE, AND IT'S DANGEROUS.
ONE SLIP IS FATAL.
BUT THIS IS IT.
( GRUNTS )
I NEED TO GET OUT OF THIS FAST.
THE HELI IS GETTING PULLED IN LOTS OF UPDRAFTS HERE,
AND I NEED TO BE OFF THIS ROPE QUICK.
( GROANING )
CLEAR ROPE.
( SIGHS )
I'M STRANDED 4,000 FEET ABOVE SEA LEVEL,
ON A ROCKY TABLETOP CALLED A "MESA,"
AND IT'S UTTERLY DESOLATE HERE, AND IT'S VERY, VERY HOT.
THE HEAT HERE IS JUST INCREDIBLE.
YOU KNOW, IT'S WELL OVER 110 DEGREES.
THE BIGGEST KILLER IN THESE DESERTS
ARE HEATSTROKE AND DEHYDRATION, AND BOTH COME ON SO QUICKLY.
IN THIS SITUATION, THE BEST ADVICE IS TO STAY PUT,
GET INTO THE SHADE, AND WAIT TO BE RESCUED.
BUT SOMETIMES, HELP DOESN'T COME,
SO I'M GONNA FIND MY OWN WAY OUT.
I KNOW THAT TWO HUGE RIVERS RUN THROUGH THE MOJAVE --
THE COLORADO AND THE GREEN.
FINDING ONE OF THEM IS GONNA BE THE KEY TO GETTING OUT.
THIS WHOLE DESERT
IS GONNA BE FULL OF CANYONS AND DRY RIVERBEDS,
AND IF I GET DOWN TO ONE OF THESE AND FOLLOW THEM,
IT SHOULD EVENTUALLY LEAD TO A RIVER
AND THEN, EVENTUALLY, CIVILIZATION.
PLANTS NEED WATER, SO SIGNS OF VEGETATION
WILL SHOW ME THAT WATER COULD BE NEARBY.
BUT APART FROM THIS SAGEBRUSH, I CAN'T SEE ANY AT ALL.
WHAT I CAN SEE, THOUGH,
IS A RIM OF A CANYON IN THE DISTANCE.
AT THE BOTTOM OF A CANYON, I'LL FIND SHADE.
CANYONS CAN ALSO HAVE WATER IN THEM --
STREAMS THAT LEAD DOWN TO BIGGER RIVERS --
SO THAT'S WHAT I'M GONNA HEAD FOR.
BUT PRIORITY NUMBER ONE FOR ME NOW
IS TO GET OFF THE TOP OF THIS TABLETOP,
BUT GETTING OFF IS EASIER SAID THAN DONE.
THIS WHOLE TABLETOP HERE IS JUST FORMED
BY LAYERS AND LAYERS OF ALL OF THIS SANDSTONE ROCK,
AND IT'S SO CRUMBLY UNDERFOOT AND VERY, VERY UNSTABLE.
AND WHAT I DO KNOW IS IT'S OFTEN THE DESCENT
THAT IS THE DANGEROUS PART OF THE CLIMB.
THE RISK WHEN COMING DOWN A FACE LIKE THIS
IS THAT YOU CLIMB YOURSELF INTO A POSITION
WHEN YOU CAN'T GO UP OR DOWN.
WHEN THIS HAPPENS, IT'S CALLED GETTING RIMROCKED.
28-YEAR-OLD CLIMBER WILLIAM McKEAN
GOT RIMROCKED ON A CLIFF NEAR HERE.
HE HUNG ON FOR AS LONG AS HE COULD,
THEN FELL TO HIS DEATH.
AH, BUT IF THIS DOES HAPPEN,
THERE'S A TECHNIQUE THAT THEY TEACH YOU IN SPECIAL FORCES
FOR BEING ABLE TO MAKE A JUMP OF, LIKE, 15 FOOT.
AND THE IDEA IS WHEN YOU JUMP, YOU KEEP YOUR FEET TOGETHER,
KNEES SLIGHTLY BENT, AND WHEN YOU LAND,
YOU ROLL, AND YOU SPREAD THE IMPACT ALONG YOUR LEGS
AND THEN AROUND YOUR BACK.
( SIGHS, SCREAMS )
( SPITS, SIGHS )
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
IT'S THE MIDDLE OF THE DAY, AND THE SUN IS NOW AT ITS HOTTEST,
SO I'VE GOT TO GET TO THE SAFETY OF SHADE OF THAT CANYON
AS SOON AS POSSIBLE.
JUST BEING IN 110-DEGREES HEAT,
YOUR BODY ACTUALLY LOSES ABOUT A LITER OF WATER EVERY HOUR,
AND THAT'S BEFORE YOU EVEN START THINKING ABOUT WALKING
OR CLIMBING OR MOVING.
THE LONGER I'M EXPOSED TO THE FULL STRENGTH OF THE SUN,
THE GREATER THE DANGER,
AND THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE BODY TO KEEP COOL
IS THE HEAD AND THE BRAIN.
I REMEMBER LEARNING THIS REALLY GOOD TRICK
FOR IMPROVISING A HEADDRESS OR SUN HAT.
AND IF I USE THIS WHITE T-SHIRT HERE
AND THEN JUST CUT ONE SIDE OF IT --
AND ALL I'M DOING IS CUTTING ALL THE WAY DOWN ONE SEAM
AND THEN OPENING IT OUT.
AND THEN I'VE GOT A GOOD LENGTH OF MATERIAL HERE,
AND ALL I DO IS JUST WRAP IT AROUND MY HEAD.
AND IF I TWIST THIS NICE AND FIRM AT THE SIDE OF MY HEAD,
PULL IT AROUND TIGHT, PULL IT AROUND MY FACE,
AND THEN TUCK IT IN ON ITS OWN KNOT,
THIS WILL KEEP THE SUN OFF ME
AND WILL SAVE ME GETTING BURNT TO DEATH.
TO GIVE YOU AN IDEA OF HOW DANGEROUS THIS HEAT IS --
THE BODY'S INTERNAL TEMPERATURE
IS USUALLY 98.6 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
ONCE THE BODY'S CORE TEMPERATURE HITS 105,
YOU'VE GOT HEATSTROKE.
WHEN THIS HAPPENS, YOU BECOME CONFUSED,
THE BODY GOES INTO CONVULSIONS, AND YOU COULD FALL INTO A COMA.
I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN SEE THIS,
BUT THIS WHOLE PLACE REALLY IS MOTHER NATURE
AT HER MOST UNFORGIVING,
AND THIS DESERT HAS TO BE ONE OF THE HARDEST PLACES IN THE WORLD
JUST TO STAY ALIVE FOR ANY PERIOD OF TIME.
THIS ENTIRE REGION WAS ONCE COVERED BY SHALLOW SEA
AND JUST TEEMED WITH LIFE.
THAT WAS 200 MILLION YEARS AGO.
BUT NOW, IT BARELY GETS NINE INCHES OF RAINFALL A YEAR.
AND ALL THE CREATURES THAT ONCE THRIVED HERE ARE EXTINCT.
I DON'T WANT TO JOIN THEM.
I FOUND THE CANYON THAT I WAS LOOKING FOR,
AND THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE THERE'S WATER DOWN THERE
BECAUSE THERE'S PLENTY OF SHADE.
MY ONLY PROBLEM IS HOW TO GET DOWN INTO IT.
I HAVE ABSEILED INTO THE MIDDLE OF THE MOAB DESERT IN UTAH,
ONE OF THE DRYER STATES IN NORTH AMERICA.
AND I AM GOING TO SHOW YOU HOW TO SURVIVE
WITH ONLY A BOTTLE OF WATER, A KNIFE AND A FLINT.
I AM HOPING TO FIND WATER IN THIS CANYON,
AND I ALSO THINK IT COULD LEAD ME TO A RIVER AND BACK TO CIVILIZATION.
BUT FIRST, I NEED TO GET DOWN INTO IT.
THIS EDGE IS TOO STEEP TO CLIMB,
AND IT IS TOO WIDE TO JUMP.
BUT IF I CAN USE A GIANT BOULDER AS A BRIDGE,
I MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIND A WAY DOWN ON THE OTHER SIDE.
BUT I HAVE GOT TO BE PRETTY CAREFUL CROSSING THIS
JUST BECAUSE THESE BOULDERS CAN SOMETIMES BE UNSTABLE.
THIS SANDSTONE IS FLAKY AND ALSO IT IS A, IT IS A LONG WAY DOWN THERE.
UTAH CLIMBER ARON RALSTON
WAS TRAPPED BY A BOULDER LIKE THIS
WHEN IT FELL ON HIM IN A REMOTE CANYON.
TO ESCAPE, HE HAD TO CUT HIS OWN ARM OFF WITH A PENKNIFE.
AND THE KEY TO CLIMBING IS ALWAYS TO KEEP
AT LEAST THREE POINTS OF CONTACTS WITH THE FACE.
AND TRY AND USE YOUR, YOUR LEG POWER
AS MUCH AS, AS MUCH AS YOU CAN
RATHER THAN YOUR ARMS.
I HAVE MADE IT ACROSS,
BUT THERE IS STILL NO SIGN OF A WAY DOWN,
AND IF I DO NOT FIND WATER SOON
I COULD BE AT SERIOUS RISK OF DEHYDRATING.
SEARCH AND RESCUE HAVE A SAYING IN THESE PARTS --
"A LOST HIKER IS DOWN IN 12 HOURS AND DEAD IN 24."
SO FAR, I'VE BEEN HERE FOR FIVE.
AT LAST, A WAY DOWN INTO THIS CANYON,
AND THERE MUST BE WATER DOWN HERE SOMEWHERE.
THE CANYON RUNS DOWNHILL,
AND THAT'S THE WAY WATER WOULD FLOW.
IT'S THE WAY I'M GONNA GO.
THERE ARE OVER 1,000 OF THESE NARROW CANYONS IN THE MOJAVE,
SOME OF THEM ONLY A FEW FEET WIDE.
THEY'RE KNOWN AS SLOT CANYONS.
THE SHADE DOWN HERE MEANS THE TEMPERATURE
IS ABOUT 20 DEGREES LESS THAN ON THE DESERT FLOOR ABOVE.
A REALLY GOOD WAY OF FINDING WATER IN THESE CANYONS
IS LOOKING FOR CLUMPS OF VEGETATION
AND WATER-HUNGRY PLANTS,
AND, ACTUALLY, THIS IS A REALLY GOOD EXAMPLE -- THIS TAMARISK.
AND JUST A SMALL BUSH LIKE THIS
IS CAPABLE OF SUCKING UP UP TO 20 GALLONS OF WATER A DAY
FROM THESE AQUIFERS,
WHICH ARE THESE UNDERGROUND CHAMBERS OF WATER.
AND THIS IS A VERY GOOD SIGN
THAT THERE'S A WATER SOURCE SOMEWHERE NEARBY.
AND THERE IS, BUT THERE'S A PROBLEM.
IT'S POLLUTED.
I CAN SEE THERE A ROTTING SQUIRREL.
AND THIS WATER'S NOT FLOWING ANYWHERE, SO IT'S JUST STAGNANT,
AND YOU DEFINITELY DON'T WANT TO BE DRINKING IT.
JUST ONE DROP COULD MAKE ME SERIOUSLY ILL.
THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE THIS CANYON
WILL EVENTUALLY LEAD TO A RIVER.
IF I FOLLOW IT, IT COULD WELL BE MY ROUTE OUT OF HERE,
BUT MY WAY IS BLOCKED BY THIS WATER.
TO GO AROUND IT, I'D HAVE TO RETRACE ALL MY STEPS,
AND THAT'S JUST TOO FAR, SO I'M GONNA GO THROUGH IT.
( GROANING )
THIS WATER IS ALSO SURPRISINGLY COLD.
AND IT'S STRANGE BECAUSE OUTSIDE OF THIS CANYON,
IT'S JUST A SCORCHING DESERT,
BUT IN HERE, WHERE IT GETS NO SUN,
IT'S ABSOLUTELY FREEZING.
BUT I'VE GOT NO CHOICE. I'VE GOT TO KEEP GOING THIS WAY.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
IN FACT, THE WATER IN THIS POOL
MUST BE ABOUT 50 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT.
BUT THE REAL DANGER OF THESE SLOT CANYONS IS FLASH FLOODS.
A STORM UP TO 100 MILES AWAY COULD SEND TONS OF WATER
AND DEBRIS CRASHING THROUGH HERE.
ONLY A FEW YEARS AGO, A GROUP OF 12 TOURISTS WERE KILLED
WHEN A FLASH FLOOD RIPPED
THROUGH THE ANTELOPE CANYON IN ARIZONA.
OH, THIS WHOLE CANYON HERE IS
JUST BLOCKED NOW BY THIS LOGJAM,
AND THIS WOULD HAVE BEEN CAUSED BY A FLASH FLOOD
JUST COMING DOWN AND PILING UP ALL THESE LOGS AND THIS DEBRIS.
I CAN'T CLIMB OVER THIS LOGJAM BECAUSE IT'S TOO UNSTABLE
AND THE CANYON WALLS ARE TOO STEEP TO CLIMB.
IF YOU WERE TRAPPED IN A POOL LIKE THIS FOR JUST TWO HOURS,
THE BODY'S CORE TEMPERATURE
WOULD FALL BELOW 95 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT,
AND HYPOTHERMIA WOULD SET IN.
THERE'S JUST NO WAY I'M GETTING OVER THIS.
AND I SUPPOSE I COULD GO BACK,
BUT IF YOU FOUND YOURSELF IN THIS SORT OF CANYON --
AND PEOPLE DO FIND THEMSELVES TRAPPED --
YOUR ONLY REAL OPTION WOULD BE TO TRY AND SWIM UNDER IT.
BUT THE DANGER IS I JUST DON'T KNOW
HOW FAR IT IS TO THE OTHER SIDE.
BUT THE TECHNIQUE FOR DOING THIS
IS THAT YOU BREATHE REALLY DEEPLY AND SLOWLY
FOR A GOOD AMOUNT OF TIME BEFOREHAND.
AND WHAT THIS DOES
IS THAT IT GETS RID OF ALL THE CARBON DIOXIDE IN YOUR BODY,
AND IT LOWERS YOUR HEART RATE,
AND THEN YOU JUST HAVE TO GO FOR IT AND KEEP CALM.
BUT LET'S TRY.
( BREATHING DEEPLY )
( GASPING )
I CERTAINLY GOT THROUGH IT, AND I COULD SEE THE LIGHT.
( GASPS )
ANOTHER FIVE SECONDS, I WOULD HAVE BEEN THROUGH THAT.
I'LL JUST GIVE IT ONE MORE GO.
FOUR MINUTES IS THE MAXIMUM TIME IT'S POSSIBLE
FOR ANYONE TO HOLD THEIR BREATH.
BUT IN WATER THIS COLD,
I'M GONNA STRUGGLE TO HOLD IT FOR MORE THAN 30 SECONDS.
( BREATHING DEEPLY )
( GASPING )
( SIGHS )
OH, I'M RUNNING OUT OF POWER FAST.
( BREATHING HEAVILY )
OH, IT'S JUST SO COLD. I'VE GOT TO GET OUT OF HERE.
( GROANS )
HOLDING MY BREATH UNDERWATER HAS REALLY TAKEN IT OUT OF ME,
BUT NOW THERE'S A NEW OBSTACLE.
I'VE HIT A DEAD END, AND THERE'S NO WAY OUT.
I'VE BEEN SWIMMING ALONG A FLOODED CANYON,
IN THE HOPE THAT IT WILL LEAD ME TO A RIVER AND CIVILIZATION.
THE WATER IN HERE IS FREEZING COLD
AND POLLUTED WITH DEAD ANIMALS.
BUT NOW, THERE'S A NEW PROBLEM.
I'VE HIT A DEAD END, AND THERE'S NO WAY OUT,
EXCEPT TO GO BACK OR TO GO UP.
ONE WAY OF GETTING OUT OF THESE CANYONS,
IF IT'S NARROW ENOUGH,
IS TO USE WHAT THEY CALL A CHIMNEY CLIMB,
AND THIS IS A TECHNIQUE THAT'S ORIGINALLY DESIGNED
FOR GETTING YOURSELF OUT OF A WELL.
BUT IT'S PRETTY DANGEROUS, AND YOU'VE GOT TO BE SO CAREFUL
IN THESE SORT OF THINGS THAT ARE PRETTY HIGH.
THIS TYPE OF SANDSTONE IS CALLED SLICKROCK,
BECAUSE WHEN IT GETS WET, IT BECOMES SO SLIPPERY.
MY CLIMBING SHOES WILL STRUGGLE TO GET A DECENT GRIP HERE,
AND IF I FALL, IT'S A 30-FOOT DROP.
THE TECHNIQUE FOR DOING THIS
IS TO WEDGE YOUR BACK AGAINST THE ROCK,
AND ONE FOOT BEHIND YOU, ONE IN FRONT.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
AND KEEP WORKING YOUR WAY UP.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
AND YOU'VE GOT TO KEEP THE PRESSURE FORWARD
AND THE PRESSURE BEHIND YOU.
AND THAT'S YOUR ONLY... SAFETY.
( BREATHING HEAVILY )
OKAY, I JUST JAMMED MY KNEES IN HERE,
AND THAT MEANS ANOTHER REST --
GET SOME BLOOD BACK INTO MY ARMS.
THIS ROCK'S BECOMING MUCH LESS SLIPPY NOW.
AND DOWN IN THE BOTTOM, DOWN THERE WHERE IT WAS WET,
TURNS INTO SLICKROCK.
BUT THIS STUFF IS MUCH BETTER,
AND I CAN REALLY GET
A REALLY GOOD PERCH ON THIS.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
OKAY, IF I JUST GET MY HAND OVER THE TOP
AND MAKE IT INTO A FIST,
I CAN CERTAINLY USE THAT TO JAM IT IN.
AND IF I CAN JUST REACH THIS LAST LITTLE BIT
AND GET MY HAND IN THERE IN A FIST...
( BREATHING HEAVILY )
...I CAN JAM THAT IN AND TAKE THE WEIGHT.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
( GROANS )
MY PLAN TO FOLLOW THE CANYON DOWN TO A RIVER HAS FAILED,
AND STEPPING BACK INTO THE DESERT HEAT
FEELS LIKE ENTERING A FURNACE.
AND STILL, I HAVEN'T FOUND ANY FRESHWATER.
BEFORE I CAN THINK ABOUT MAKING A NEW PLAN,
I NEED TO GET OUT OF THE SUN.
BUT THE NEAREST SHADE IS A ROCKY OUTCROP
AN HOUR'S HIKE AWAY, WHERE I MIGHT FIND A CAVE.
IN THIS MIDDAY HEAT,
EVEN THIS HEADDRESS IS JUST GETTING ROASTING HOT,
AND I'VE GOT TO THINK OF SOME WAY JUST TO KEEP MY HEAD COOL.
AND WHAT I CAN DO, THOUGH,
IS TAKE THIS OFF AND THEN PEE ON IT.
AND IT'S PRETTY GROSS,
BUT IT'S ALSO NOT EXACTLY GONNA SMELL VERY GOOD.
BUT LUCKILY, THERE ARE NOT MANY PEOPLE OUT HERE
TO BE EXACTLY VERY BOTHERED.
AND IT'S REALLY, REALLY YELLOW PEE,
WHICH IS A SIGN I'M DEFINITELY GETTING PRETTY DEHYDRATED NOW.
BUT AT LEAST THIS SHOULD KEEP MY HEAD A BIT COOLER.
AND AT THE MOMENT, MY HEAD IS JUST ON FIRE.
( ZIPPER ZIPS )
AND, YEAH, IT DOESN'T SMELL GREAT.
BUT THIS IS REALLY NICE AND COOLING.
( SIGHS )
THAT'S BETTER.
THIS HEADDRESS WILL KEEP ME COOL FOR A BIT,
BUT I DESPERATELY NEED TO GET INTO THE SHADE.
OH, IT'S JUST SUCH A RELIEF TO FIND THIS CAVE.
BUT I'VE ALSO GOT TO BE PRETTY CAREFUL.
OTHER DESERT ANIMALS
MIGHT WELL HAVE THE SAME IDEA OF LOOKING FOR THE SHADE,
ESPECIALLY SNAKES.
AND, ACTUALLY, IF A SNAKE IS OUT
IN THE HOTTEST PART OF THE DAY IN THE DESERT,
THEY WILL DIE.
THEY HAVE TO HAVE THIS SORT OF SHADE.
AND A GOOD WAY
IS JUST TO LOB A FEW ROCKS IN.
JUST HAVE A GOOD LOOK AROUND BEFORE.
BUT THIS IS GONNA BE PERFECT, I THINK, FOR ME.
YEAH, IT LOOKS CLEAR.
LAST YEAR, A MOUNTAIN BIKER CALLED KURT ROGERS
WENT RIDING IN THE MOJAVE IN 100-DEGREES HEAT.
HE TOOK A WRONG TURN AND GOT LOST.
THE NEXT DAY, HIS BODY WAS FOUND
A QUARTER OF A MILE FROM THE TRAIL,
DEAD FROM HEAT EXHAUSTION.
SHADY CAVES LIKE THIS CAN LITERALLY BE LIFESAVERS.
I'M GONNA TRY AND GET SOME REST HERE
AND MOVE ON AT A COOLER TIME OF DAY.
IT'S EARLY MORNING -- THE BEST TIME TO TRAVEL IN THE DESERT.
AND MY MAIN PRIORITY IS STILL TO FIND WATER.
AND IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA,
WHEN YOU GET UP FIRST THING IN THE MORNING,
ANY CLOTHES YOU HAVEN'T BEEN WEARING
OR BOOTS, IF YOU'VE TAKEN THEM OFF --
ALWAYS TIP THEM UP OR GIVE CLOTHING A GOOD SHAKE OUT,
JUST 'CAUSE SCORPIONS LOVE TO GET INTO COOL, SHADY PLACES.
I'M DOWN TO MY LAST FEW DROPS OF WATER,
AND I DESPERATELY NEED TO REFILL MY CANTEEN.
ONE TRICK IS TO LISTEN FOR INSECTS.
BEES AND MOSQUITOS ALWAYS LIVE NEAR WATER,
AND IF I CAN FIND SOME OF THEM, THEY MIGHT LEAD ME TO A SPRING.
I'VE HEARD SOME SOMEWHERE IN THIS GULLY,
AND THIS IS JUST THE SORT OF PLACE THEY LIKE.
IT'S COOL, IT'S DARK, AND THERE'S PROBABLY
A LITTLE BIT OF MOISTURE IN THE GROUND, AS WELL.
THE SOUND OF INSECTS IS A GOOD SIGN
I COULD BE GETTING CLOSE TO WATER.
AND THIS IS WHAT I'VE BEEN LOOKING FOR --
JUST THIS LINE OF MINERAL DEPOSITS
THAT'S THE INDICATOR THAT THERE'S A SEEP SOMEWHERE NEARBY
AND WATER TRICKLING OUT OF ONE OF THESE AQUIFERS.
AND YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THIS LITTLE POOL OF WATER
THAT'S FORMED HERE.
AND WHAT'S HAPPENING IS THAT IT'S FILLING UP,
AND THEN IT'S RUNNING AWAY.
AND IF I CAN JUST DIG THIS OUT A BIT
AND THEN DAM IT AND STOP THAT WATER SEEPING OUT,
I'LL GET A GOOD AMOUNT OF WATER THERE.
PROBABLY IN A FEW MINUTES, THAT'LL FILL UP.
AND THEN I JUST NEED A WAY OF COLLECTING IT AND DRINKING IT.
I'M LOOKING FOR A PLANT CALLED A TRUMPET FLOWER.
NATIVE AMERICANS USED IT AS A PIPE
BECAUSE IT HAS A HOLLOW STEM.
BUT I CAN ALSO USE THIS AS A DRINKING STRAW
TO GET AT THAT WATER.
BUT I'VE GOT TO BE PRETTY CAREFUL CUTTING THIS,
JUST BECAUSE IF I TRY AND JUST BREAK IT OFF,
IT'S GONNA SPLINTER.
SO WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS
JUST SCORE ALL THE WAY AROUND THE BOTTOM,
AND THEN THE SAME AT THE TOP.
AND THIS MEANS WHEN I COME TO SNAP IT OFF,
IT'S GONNA COME AWAY CLEANLY.
( SUCKING IN )
AND THAT'S GONNA BE GREAT.
THE RESERVOIR HAS FILLED UP WITH WATER,
AND NOW I CAN USE A STRAW TO SUCK IT OUT.
THE GREAT THING ABOUT THIS IS THIS WHOLE PROCESS
OF THE WATER SEEPING THROUGH THIS ROCK MEANS,
ACTUALLY, EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS PRETTY MURKY,
THIS WATER IS WELL-FILTERED.
AND I CAN ALMOST GUARANTEE YOU
THAT THIS IS BETTER QUALITY WATER
THAN YOU GET IN MOST CITIES -- JUST THE TAP WATER.
WHEN YOU'RE DEHYDRATED, IT'S IMPORTANT TO DRINK SLOWLY,
AS GUZZLING TOO MUCH WATER TOO FAST CAN MAKE YOU VOMIT.
( SIGHING )
( SUCKING IN )
OH, THAT'S SO GOOD.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
I'VE REHYDRATED, AND MY CANTEEN IS FULL AGAIN.
NOW I NEED TO COME UP WITH ANOTHER PLAN
FOR GETTING OUT OF THIS DESERT.
AND THE BEST WAY OF FINDING A ROUTE
IS TO SURVEY THE LAND FROM HIGH GROUND.
WHAT I'M LOOKING FOR IS JUST ANY SIGNS OF VEGETATION --
YOU KNOW, TREES, BUSHES.
I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN SEE THAT,
BUT THERE'S THIS LINE OF VEGETATION ALONG THERE,
AND THAT'S THE MARKINGS OF A RIVER.
AND IN THE DESERT, WHERE THERE'S A RIVER,
THERE'S ALMOST ALWAYS HUMAN HABITATION.
IT DOESN'T LOOK THAT FAR, BUT THE ROUTE IS FAR FROM FLAT,
AND I WANT TO TRY AND FIND FOOD BEFORE I START HIKING THERE.
I'M GETTING REALLY HUNGRY NOW, AND I NEED SOMETHING
THAT'S JUST GONNA GIVE ME SOME ENERGY...AND SOME FOOD.
AND THIS IS JUST THE SORT OF PLACE, THIS LITTLE GULLY,
THAT BIRDS OR RAVENS WOULD BE NESTING.
AND IF I CAN JUST GET MYSELF ONE OF THOSE, IT WOULD BE AMAZING.
CATCHING A BIRD WITHOUT A TRAP IS NEARLY IMPOSSIBLE,
BUT I MIGHT BE ABLE TO FIND SOME EGGS.
BIRD DROPPINGS OR FEATHERS WILL GIVE AWAY THEIR LOCATION.
THERE'S A BROKEN EGGSHELL HERE,
WHICH MEANS THERE IS DEFINITELY
A NEST SOMEWHERE...UP HERE.
AND, LOOK, THERE'S MORE HERE.
AND IT COULD WELL BE ON THAT LEDGE.
HERE WE GO.
AND THIS LOOKS LIKE A CHUKAR'S NEST HERE.
AND THESE EGGS ARE BIGGER.
THESE ARE MORE LIKE RAVEN'S EGGS,
AND THIS IS WHAT RAVENS DO.
THEY'LL TEND TO DRIVE A LITTLE BIRD AWAY FROM ITS NEST
AND THEN LAY ITS OWN EGGS IN IT.
BUT EITHER WAY, I'M GONNA EAT THESE.
I'M GONNA HAVE ONE NOW AND THEN KEEP ONE FOR LATER.
ALL BIRD EGGS ARE EDIBLE.
EVEN THE SHELL IS A GOOD SOURCE OF CALCIUM,
AND I'M SO HUNGRY I CAN'T HELP BUT EAT IT RAW.
BUT THERE IS A RISK OF CATCHING SALMONELLA,
SO I'M GONNA TRY AND COOK THE OTHER ONE.
( SIZZLING )
IT'S PROBABLY ABOUT 120 DEGREES OUT HERE
IN THE HEAT AT THE MOMENT,
AND THIS IS UNDOUBTEDLY THE HOTTEST PLACE
I HAVE EVER BEEN IN MY LIFE.
MMM.
WELL, THAT'S ONE OF THE BEST SCRAMBLED EGGS I'VE HAD.
I'VE SEEN A RIVER IN THE DISTANCE,
AND I JUST HOPE I'LL HAVE ENOUGH ENERGY TO REACH IT.
I THINK THE RIVER I SAW ON THE HORIZON
IS STILL ALMOST A DAY'S HIKE AWAY.
BUT WHEN THE LANDSCAPE IS UNEVEN,
IT'S EASY TO GO AROUND IN CIRCLES.
SO I'M GONNA USE A LOCAL PLANT
TO KEEP ME HEADING IN A STRAIGHT LINE.
LOOK AT THESE GUYS.
THESE ARE LITTLE COMPASS CACTUSES.
AND THEY'RE CALLED THIS
'CAUSE THEY'RE PRETTY RELIABLE INDICATORS OF DIRECTION.
AND THEY TEND TO GROW TOWARDS THE SOUTH.
AND TO SHOW YOU HOW PARCHED AND DRY
AND NUTRIENT-DEFICIENT THIS SOIL IS,
IT'S TAKEN THESE LITTLE CACTUSES
PROBABLY ABOUT 75 YEARS JUST TO GET TO THIS SIZE.
BUT YOU DON'T REALLY WANT TO RELY ON JUST ONE OF THESE.
BUT IF YOU SEE A FEW OF THEM GROWING IN THE SAME DIRECTION,
THAT'S A PRETTY GOOD INDICATION THAT SOUTH IS THAT WAY.
AND IF I ALWAYS KNOW WHERE SOUTH IS,
I CAN KEEP MYSELF IN A STRAIGHT LINE
WHILE I'M HEADING FOR THAT RIVER.
THE MOJAVE IS PART OF THE GREAT BASIN DESERT,
THE HIGHEST DESERT IN THE U.S. AND THE FURTHEST NORTH.
IT EXPERIENCES EXTREME CHANGES IN TEMPERATURE.
AND AT NIGHT, IT CAN DROP AS LOW AS 40 DEGREES.
THE HEAT OF THE DAY NOW IS BEGINNING TO DIE. THANK GOD.
BUT IN A FEW HOURS, IT'S GONNA START TO GET REALLY COLD.
I NEED MATERIALS FOR A FIRE.
AND WHENEVER YOU'RE REACHING AROUND LIKE THIS,
YOU'VE GOT TO BE SO CAREFUL, JUST FOR ANY SNAKES
THAT CAMOUFLAGE SO WELL IN THE UNDERGROWTH.
WITH THE TEMPERATURE DROPPING,
I'LL NEED TO GET A FIRE STARTED SOON.
THE DUSK IS ALSO A GOOD TIME
TO GO HUNTING FOR FOOD.
THE MOJAVE IS HOME TO A DOZEN DIFFERENT TYPES OF SNAKE,
AND THEY ARE ALL EDIBLE.
I'M GONNA TRY AND CATCH ONE FOR DINNER.
I'M JUST GONNA SEE IF I CAN JUST FIND SOMETHING TO EAT
AND REPLACE SOME OF THESE CALORIES
THAT I'M LOSING OUT HERE.
ALL THE SNAKES, IN THE HEAT IN THE DAY --
THEY'LL BE TUCKED AWAY AND IN THE SHADE.
BUT AT THIS TIME, THEY'RE OUT. THEY'RE NOCTURNAL HUNTERS.
AND THEY'RE LOOKING FOR FOOD, JUST LIKE ME.
WHOA, WHOA, WHOA, WHOA! LOOK! LOOK!
HERE WE GO -- A LITTLE RATTLER.
AND THIS IS A GOOD-SIZED LITTLE RATTLESNAKE HERE.
TO CATCH A SNAKE, YOU USE A ROCK TO STUN IT,
THEN PIN ITS HEAD TO THE GROUND WITH A STICK
AND CRUSH ITS SKULL.
YEAH, THIS IS A FADED MIDGET.
THEY'RE CALLED FADED MIDGETS
BECAUSE THEIR PATTERNING IS VERY UNDISTINCT.
IT'S VERY FADED, WHICH MEANS THEY CAMOUFLAGE BRILLIANTLY
INTO ALL OF THIS SAND AND ROCK.
THESE ARE HIGHLY VENOMOUS SNAKES,
AND YOU'VE GOT TO BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THESE GUYS.
WOW, LISTEN TO THAT RATTLE.
THAT'S JUST HER WARNING -- SAYING, "KEEP BACK."
BUT SHE'S LOOKING STRAIGHT AT ME HERE.
THIS SORT OF SNAKE -- IF IT BIT YOU
AND YOU DIDN'T GET TREATMENT, IT COULD WELL KILL YOU.
IN A LIFE-OR-DEATH SITUATION,
I'D HAVE TO KILL THE SNAKE TO SURVIVE,
BUT THE FADED MIDGET IS A PROTECTED SPECIES.
TONIGHT, I'M GOING HUNGRY.
SNAKES AREN'T THE ONLY CREATURES
THAT COME OUT AT NIGHT.
MOUNTAIN LIONS DO THEIR HUNTING IN THE DARK, AS WELL.
THEY'RE EXTREMELY RARE,
BUT THIS IS JUST THE SORT OF TERRAIN THEY LIKE.
MY NUMBER-ONE PRIORITY IS TO GET A FIRE GOING.
IT WILL KEEP ME WARM AND WARD OFF ANY PREDATORS.
IT'S GOTTEN NOTICEABLY COLDER NOW,
BUT I'VE GOT A REALLY GOOD TINDER NEST HERE.
I'VE GOT MY KINDLING FROM THAT RABBIT BRUSH,
AND I'VE GOT MY FLINT THAT I ALWAYS TRY AND CARRY WITH ME.
THE KEY WITH A FIRE IS TO NURTURE IT WHEN IT'S SMALL.
IT'S AMAZING WHEN YOU'RE ALL ALONE
JUST HOW MUCH STRENGTH YOU DRAW FROM HAVING A FIRE.
I'M JUST TURNING THIS LITTLE CAMERA ON.
BUT I DON'T KNOW IF YOU CAN HEAR THAT, BUT THERE'S --
( RATTLING )
CAN YOU HEAR THAT? THERE'S DEFINITELY SOME--
THERE'S DEFINITELY SOMETHING RATTLING OUTSIDE,
AND IT'S EITHER A LITTLE RATTLESNAKE GOING PAST --
LISTEN. LISTEN.
( RATTLING )
EITHER A LITTLE RATTLESNAKE GOING PAST THE CAVE,
OR IT COULD BE JUST A NONVENOMOUS SNAKE.
OFTEN WHAT THEY DO IS THEY'LL DRAG THEIR TAILS
THROUGH SOME DRY BRUSH AND MIMIC A RATTLE.
I DON'T WANT TO BE GETTING OUT
AND TRYING TO SCARE THIS THING OFF,
AND I DON'T WANT IT GETTING IN PAST THE EDGE OF THE FIRE HERE.
I'M JUST GONNA BANG THIS WATER BOTTLE.
JUST 'CAUSE SNAKES DON'T LIKE VIBRATIONS,
AND THEY'LL GO ON THE VIBRATION.
IF I CAN JUST SIGNAL THAT I'M HERE...
WITH RATTLESNAKES ABOUT, IT'S GONNA BE A LONG NIGHT.
I'VE BEEN TRAVELING FOR THREE DAYS THROUGH THE MOJAVE DESERT
IN SEARCH OF A RIVER, AND AT LAST,
I CAN SEE SIGNS THAT I'M GETTING CLOSER.
I'VE ENTERED AN AREA OF DENSE VEGETATION,
AND THE BUSHES AROUND ME CAN GIVE ME A CLUE
AS TO HOW FAR I HAVE TO GO.
ALL OF THESE TAMARISKS AND WILLOW JUST LOVE WATER,
AND THEY'RE TELLING ME
THAT THERE'S GOT TO BE A RIVER SOMEWHERE CLOSE NOW.
AND THERE IT IS.
AND THERE'S ALSO A WINDMILL ON THE OTHER SIDE,
AND WHAT I'M HOPING IS THAT THERE'S GONNA BE A HOUSE
OR SOMETHING NEARBY.
I'M PRETTY SURE THE ONLY RIVER THIS SIZE
IN THE MOJAVE IS THE COLORADO,
ONE OF THE MOST DANGEROUS RIVERS IN AMERICA.
IT MAY LOOK PLACID,
BUT BENEATH THE SURFACE RUNS A POWERFUL CURRENT.
EVERY YEAR, UNSUSPECTING TOURISTS
ARE SWEPT AWAY AND DROWNED.
AND ALONG ITS EDGE
ARE MURKY POOLS THAT COULD CONCEAL QUICKSAND.
COWBOYS WERE ALWAYS SO CAREFUL OF QUICKSAND
WHEN THEY WERE HERDING CATTLE ALONG RIVERBANKS,
JUST BECAUSE IT'S SO EASY FOR CATTLE TO DIE IN THIS STUFF.
THEY WALK INTO IT. THEY START TO STRUGGLE.
AND AS THEY STRUGGLE, THEY JUST GET SUCKED DEEPER INTO IT.
BUT IF YOU DID GET STUCK IN QUICKSAND,
I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO GET OUT OF IT.
( BUBBLING )
AND I CAN JUST FEEL IT BEGIN.
THE MORE I TRY AND PULL THE LEG OUT, THE MORE IT SUCKS IT IN.
AND IF I JUST ALLOW MYSELF TO STRUGGLE,
YOU CAN SEE HOW I JUST BEGIN TO SINK DOWN INTO IT.
AND THE WAY TO THEN GET OUT OF IT
IS THAT YOU'VE GOT TO STOP FIGHTING
AND TRY AND THEN LIFT YOUR BODY UP...
AND TRY AND WRIGGLE ONTO THE
SURFACE AND CHANGE THE ANGLE.
PULL AN ARM OUT.
AND THEN EASE THE LEFT LEG OUT.
JUST TRY AND MONKEY-CRAWL YOUR WAY OUT.
( GRUNTS )
( SPITS )
OKAY, NOW I'M ON THE SURFACE.
AND THEN JUST MONKEY-CRAWL OUT OF IT,
AND YOU CAN CROSS A LOT OF QUICKSAND IN THIS WAY.
( SIGHS )
AND THAT'S WHY I'M NOT GONNA BE ABLE TO WADE THIS RIVER.
I'M GONNA HAVE TO SWIM IT,
'CAUSE IT'S ALL GONNA BE LIKE THIS HORRIBLE GLOOP.
BUT I JUST NEED FIVE MINUTES FIRST.
( BREATHING HEAVILY )
THE WINDMILL ON THE OTHER SIDE
IS TELLING ME I CAN'T BE FAR FROM CIVILIZATION.
BUT TO GET TO IT,
I'M GONNA HAVE TO SWIM THE COLORADO RIVER.
THE WAY TO CROSS WIDE RIVERS LIKE THIS
IS TO SWIM DIAGONALLY AND WITH THE CURRENT.
BECAUSE THE CURRENT IN THIS RIVER IS SO STRONG,
IT'S IMPOSSIBLE TO SWIM AGAINST IT.
IT'S MUCH FASTER FLOWING THAN I FIRST THOUGHT.
NOW I'M ACTUALLY BEING PULLED FAST DOWNSTREAM.
( EXHALES SHARPLY )
I JUST HOPE THERE'S GONNA BE SOMEBODY ACTUALLY OVER HERE.
I KNOW THERE ARE SMALL COMMUNITIES SCATTERED
ALL ALONG THE RIVERS THAT RUN THROUGH THE MOJAVE.
WHEREVER THERE'S A RIVER IN THE DESERT,
THERE'S BOUND TO BE CIVILIZATION
SOMEWHERE ALONG THE BANKS.
I FEEL LIKE MY JOURNEY THROUGH THIS REMARKABLE LANDSCAPE
IS ALMOST AT AN END.
IF I'VE LEARNED ANYTHING OUT HERE,
IT'S JUST HOW FAST THIS ARID, PARCHED, BURNING DESERT
CAN SAP THE LIFE OUT OF YOU.
AND ON YOUR OWN,
THEY SAY THAT ONLY THE STRONG AND THE LUCKY SURVIVE.
AND I DON'T FEEL VERY STRONG.
IN FACT, I FEEL PRETTY WIPED OUT.
BUT I DO FEEL LUCKY, AND, FOR ME,
IT'S DEFINITELY TIME TO START HEADING HOME.