1 00:00:01,020 --> 00:00:03,060 (THEME MUSIC PLAYS) 2 00:00:26,540 --> 00:00:28,780 IMAN AMRANI: Shein is the fastest-growing 3 00:00:28,780 --> 00:00:30,580 fast-fashion brand on the planet... 4 00:00:30,580 --> 00:00:31,940 I'm here with a Shein haul. 5 00:00:31,940 --> 00:00:37,020 ..selling cheap clothes in every colour, size and design. 6 00:00:37,020 --> 00:00:40,500 You can't finish Shein like you can't finish TikTok. 7 00:00:40,500 --> 00:00:45,300 From the point of view of marketing, they have absolutely nailed it. 8 00:00:45,300 --> 00:00:50,180 Shein have taken the fast-fashion model of producing clothes 9 00:00:50,180 --> 00:00:51,460 and put it on steroids. 10 00:00:52,740 --> 00:00:56,860 This year the company was valued at £84 billion. 11 00:00:56,860 --> 00:00:59,180 But, alongside its meteoric success, 12 00:00:59,180 --> 00:01:01,580 there are growing criticisms. 13 00:01:01,580 --> 00:01:04,060 Shein's business model is exploitation. 14 00:01:04,060 --> 00:01:05,460 I want to investigate 15 00:01:05,460 --> 00:01:08,380 the brand that's popping up on all our social-media feeds 16 00:01:08,380 --> 00:01:11,420 to find out the truth about this fast-fashion phenomenon. 17 00:01:12,740 --> 00:01:15,540 It's a story that takes us from the UK... 18 00:01:15,540 --> 00:01:15,780 It's a story Shein have sent an email 19 00:01:15,780 --> 00:01:16,740 Shein have sent an email 20 00:01:16,740 --> 00:01:16,980 saying they're looking Shein have sent an email 21 00:01:16,980 --> 00:01:18,740 saying they're looking for some new clients. 22 00:01:18,740 --> 00:01:18,980 saying they're looking ..to China... 23 00:01:18,980 --> 00:01:19,900 ..to China... 24 00:01:24,380 --> 00:01:26,380 ..where for the first time 25 00:01:26,380 --> 00:01:30,700 our undercover cameras will go behind the doors of Shein's factories. 26 00:01:41,020 --> 00:01:42,660 Oh, I'm literally obsessed with it. 27 00:01:51,740 --> 00:01:53,540 My name is Iman Amrani. 28 00:01:53,540 --> 00:01:54,820 I'm a journalist, 29 00:01:54,820 --> 00:01:57,060 and, like most people, I've bought my fair share of clothes 30 00:01:57,060 --> 00:02:00,220 from fast-fashion retailers over the years. 31 00:02:00,220 --> 00:02:02,860 If you type 'Shein' into any search engine online, 32 00:02:02,860 --> 00:02:05,140 you'll see that nearly every newspaper and media outlet 33 00:02:05,140 --> 00:02:09,700 has done an article or a video or a story about one aspect of Shein 34 00:02:09,700 --> 00:02:11,140 at one point or another. 35 00:02:11,140 --> 00:02:14,380 Mostly they talk about how successful the company is 36 00:02:14,380 --> 00:02:14,620 Mostly they talk about and how quickly it's managed to grow 37 00:02:14,620 --> 00:02:15,860 and how quickly it's managed to grow 38 00:02:15,860 --> 00:02:16,100 to be the biggest and how quickly it's managed to grow 39 00:02:16,100 --> 00:02:19,420 to be the biggest fast-fashion retailer online. 40 00:02:20,380 --> 00:02:25,300 So, I wanted to know how it's managed to grow so big so fast. 41 00:02:25,300 --> 00:02:26,780 (BIRDS SQUAWK) 42 00:02:26,780 --> 00:02:28,060 In the past few years 43 00:02:28,060 --> 00:02:28,300 we've seen lots more fast-fashion brands be born, In the past few years 44 00:02:28,300 --> 00:02:31,380 we've seen lots more fast-fashion brands be born, 45 00:02:31,380 --> 00:02:34,860 like Missguided, Boohoo, I Saw It First, ASOS 46 00:02:34,860 --> 00:02:35,100 like Missguided, Boohoo, I Saw It First, ASOS and, of course, Shein. 47 00:02:35,100 --> 00:02:36,100 and, of course, Shein. 48 00:02:37,140 --> 00:02:39,340 Shein launched in 2015, 49 00:02:39,340 --> 00:02:43,100 evolving out of an online wedding-dress wholesaler, Sheinside. 50 00:02:44,100 --> 00:02:47,940 Shein scraped social media for emerging trends, 51 00:02:47,940 --> 00:02:49,180 turning them into designs 52 00:02:49,180 --> 00:02:51,100 which they commission in small batches 53 00:02:51,100 --> 00:02:51,380 from a network of thousands of factories in Guangzhou, China. which they commission in small batches 54 00:02:51,380 --> 00:02:55,100 from a network of thousands of factories in Guangzhou, China. 55 00:02:58,100 --> 00:03:01,100 These factories rely on an army of migrant workers 56 00:03:01,100 --> 00:03:04,380 to produce the orders as soon as they come in. 57 00:03:04,380 --> 00:03:08,420 Shein have this test-and-repeat method of producing clothing. 58 00:03:08,420 --> 00:03:08,700 They effectively treat it like a laboratory Shein have this test-and-repeat method of producing clothing. 59 00:03:08,700 --> 00:03:11,020 They effectively treat it like a laboratory 60 00:03:11,020 --> 00:03:13,700 so they can throw an idea at it. 61 00:03:13,700 --> 00:03:13,940 And if they do well and we buy lots so they can throw an idea at it. 62 00:03:13,940 --> 00:03:17,300 And if they do well and we buy lots of them, they produce lots more. 63 00:03:17,300 --> 00:03:17,540 And if they do well and we buy lots This allows them to test out 64 00:03:17,540 --> 00:03:19,020 This allows them to test out 65 00:03:19,020 --> 00:03:21,860 thousands of different styles on us every day. 66 00:03:21,860 --> 00:03:24,860 This machine operates on a completely different level. 67 00:03:24,860 --> 00:03:25,100 This machine operates During the pandemic 68 00:03:25,100 --> 00:03:26,340 During the pandemic 69 00:03:26,340 --> 00:03:29,860 Shein flooded the UK with its cheap, trendy designs 70 00:03:29,860 --> 00:03:34,420 through its innovative use of another Chinese success story - TikTok. 71 00:03:35,700 --> 00:03:37,140 Shein? Shein. 72 00:03:37,140 --> 00:03:38,420 She-in. 73 00:03:38,420 --> 00:03:40,100 And they've used content creators 74 00:03:40,100 --> 00:03:43,180 as a way to almost be the faces of their brand. 75 00:03:43,180 --> 00:03:46,300 So, you will see predominantly young women 76 00:03:46,300 --> 00:03:50,020 buying lots of clothes or being gifted lots of clothes from Shein. 77 00:03:50,020 --> 00:03:50,260 buying lots of clothes or being And because they're so cheap 78 00:03:50,260 --> 00:03:52,540 And because they're so cheap 79 00:03:52,540 --> 00:03:52,780 it will be so easy And because they're so cheap 80 00:03:52,780 --> 00:03:56,380 it will be so easy for you to click these links 81 00:03:56,380 --> 00:03:56,620 it will be so easy and go and buy them for yourself. 82 00:03:56,620 --> 00:03:58,100 and go and buy them for yourself. 83 00:03:58,100 --> 00:04:04,900 Shein sales figures skyrocketed by almost 400% to £14.5 billion. 84 00:04:06,060 --> 00:04:08,780 Their website is becoming more and more attuned every day 85 00:04:08,780 --> 00:04:12,540 to convincing people to buy more and more fast fashion. 86 00:04:12,540 --> 00:04:16,820 And, today, they supply to 220 countries worldwide. 87 00:04:19,700 --> 00:04:21,180 When it comes to Shein, 88 00:04:21,180 --> 00:04:21,420 you don't know anything When it comes to Shein, 89 00:04:21,420 --> 00:04:25,380 you don't know anything about how the company's structured, 90 00:04:25,380 --> 00:04:25,620 you don't know anything about how the company's structured, where they pay taxes, 91 00:04:25,620 --> 00:04:26,980 where they pay taxes, 92 00:04:26,980 --> 00:04:31,060 where they produce, let alone under what circumstances they produce. 93 00:04:31,060 --> 00:04:34,180 There is a lot of concern about how opaque the company is. 94 00:04:34,180 --> 00:04:36,700 Right now a lot of people really do care 95 00:04:36,700 --> 00:04:38,820 about the conditions that people are working in. 96 00:04:38,820 --> 00:04:41,660 They also care about sustainability and the environment. 97 00:04:41,660 --> 00:04:41,900 They also care about sustainability But somehow Shein has managed 98 00:04:41,900 --> 00:04:43,740 But somehow Shein has managed 99 00:04:43,740 --> 00:04:47,580 to not have to really deal head-on with many of these issues 100 00:04:47,580 --> 00:04:50,020 and have continued to grow in popularity, 101 00:04:50,020 --> 00:04:52,260 and I want to know how they manage to do this 102 00:04:52,260 --> 00:04:55,260 whilst providing more questions than answers. 103 00:04:56,620 --> 00:05:01,420 The Shein business model is really problematic at both end. 104 00:05:01,420 --> 00:05:01,660 The Shein business model You have millions of people 105 00:05:01,660 --> 00:05:03,700 You have millions of people 106 00:05:03,700 --> 00:05:08,060 that are incentivised to buy stuff they don't really need. 107 00:05:08,060 --> 00:05:09,700 The other side the problem is 108 00:05:09,700 --> 00:05:12,740 that production cycles are so short 109 00:05:12,740 --> 00:05:14,940 and pressure is so high 110 00:05:14,940 --> 00:05:15,180 that workers are exploited and pressure is so high 111 00:05:15,180 --> 00:05:19,780 that workers are exploited and work absolute inhuman hours. 112 00:05:21,180 --> 00:05:24,900 I want to understand how, despite these criticisms, 113 00:05:24,900 --> 00:05:27,820 Shein has managed to seduce shoppers like you and me. 114 00:05:29,460 --> 00:05:30,540 (BIRD SQUALLS) 115 00:05:30,540 --> 00:05:30,780 I'm going to meet one of their best (BIRD SQUALLS) 116 00:05:30,780 --> 00:05:35,060 I'm going to meet one of their best customers, 17-year-old Safiya. 117 00:05:36,020 --> 00:05:38,780 We've also got these, which are super cute. 118 00:05:38,780 --> 00:05:41,100 Look how pretty she looks as well. Oh! 119 00:05:45,900 --> 00:05:48,660 (PHONE CAMERA CLICKS) 120 00:05:53,460 --> 00:05:56,500 (BIRDS SQUALL) 121 00:06:01,620 --> 00:06:03,340 I'll go get you an ice-cream now. 122 00:06:04,300 --> 00:06:06,020 SONG: # I walk, you talk 123 00:06:06,020 --> 00:06:08,260 # You want everything I've got 124 00:06:08,260 --> 00:06:10,660 # I pose, you stare 125 00:06:10,660 --> 00:06:12,020 # I know you like my hair... # 126 00:06:12,020 --> 00:06:16,900 College student Safiya works in a cafe to fund her shopping habit. 127 00:06:17,860 --> 00:06:19,340 (KNOCK AT DOOR) 128 00:06:19,340 --> 00:06:21,820 Hi! Hi, Safiya. How's it going? 129 00:06:21,820 --> 00:06:23,660 (CHUCKLES) You look incredible. 130 00:06:26,220 --> 00:06:27,860 Where do you mostly get your clothes from? 131 00:06:27,860 --> 00:06:30,260 I do a lot of online shopping at the moment. 132 00:06:30,260 --> 00:06:32,820 I like Pretty Little Thing. I like Shein. I like Boohoo. 133 00:06:32,820 --> 00:06:34,700 Shein specifically... Yeah. 134 00:06:34,700 --> 00:06:37,500 ..how much do you think the affordability comes into it? 135 00:06:37,500 --> 00:06:38,260 Oh, massively. 136 00:06:38,260 --> 00:06:39,820 I remember when it first started 137 00:06:39,820 --> 00:06:42,260 I used to go through...they'd always be on my Instagram adverts 138 00:06:42,260 --> 00:06:43,180 and I'd always have a little look, 139 00:06:43,180 --> 00:06:45,660 and they used to have, like, jumpers on for, like, a couple of pounds. 140 00:06:45,660 --> 00:06:46,860 I was wondering if you could show me 141 00:06:46,860 --> 00:06:49,220 a couple of your Shein favourite pieces. 142 00:06:49,220 --> 00:06:52,060 Yeah. So, some tops have just blown up on TikTok. 143 00:06:52,060 --> 00:06:54,820 This one's been everywhere. I can't even avoid this. 144 00:06:54,820 --> 00:06:55,060 This one's been everywhere. How much is that? 145 00:06:55,060 --> 00:06:56,300 How much is that? 146 00:06:56,300 --> 00:06:57,660 I think it's about £4. 147 00:06:57,660 --> 00:06:59,340 This is £4? 148 00:06:59,340 --> 00:07:00,340 Yep. 149 00:07:00,340 --> 00:07:00,580 This is one Yep. 150 00:07:00,580 --> 00:07:02,300 This is one of my favourite tops ever 151 00:07:02,300 --> 00:07:02,540 This is one and I found it on Princess Polly 152 00:07:02,540 --> 00:07:03,900 and I found it on Princess Polly 153 00:07:03,900 --> 00:07:06,820 and it's, like, £38 or something ridiculous from there. 154 00:07:06,820 --> 00:07:09,220 Like, that's from Shein. I think that cost me, like, a fiver. 155 00:07:09,220 --> 00:07:09,460 Like, that's from Shein. Is it exactly the same as that? 156 00:07:09,460 --> 00:07:10,580 Is it exactly the same as that? 157 00:07:10,580 --> 00:07:12,660 They, like, literally copy places. OK. 158 00:07:14,980 --> 00:07:16,540 (BIRDS SQUALL) 159 00:07:16,540 --> 00:07:18,500 When you live in, like, a small town 160 00:07:18,500 --> 00:07:18,740 you meet people and you can probably When you live in, like, a small town 161 00:07:18,740 --> 00:07:21,500 you meet people and you can probably tell me the exact same thing, 162 00:07:21,500 --> 00:07:24,300 the first thing they say to me is, "Where are you from?" 163 00:07:24,300 --> 00:07:27,180 I have not seen anyone who is, like, a similar colour to me. 164 00:07:27,180 --> 00:07:28,580 In Scarborough? No, not one. 165 00:07:28,580 --> 00:07:30,780 It's not like there's anyone who's similar to you, 166 00:07:30,780 --> 00:07:31,020 It's not like there's anyone you stick out anyway, 167 00:07:31,020 --> 00:07:32,260 you stick out anyway, 168 00:07:32,260 --> 00:07:32,500 so, I may as well stick out you stick out anyway, 169 00:07:32,500 --> 00:07:34,940 so, I may as well stick out and look good sticking out. 170 00:07:36,020 --> 00:07:37,780 But the thing is that Shein is one of the worst 171 00:07:37,780 --> 00:07:38,020 But the thing is because the prices are so cheap 172 00:07:38,020 --> 00:07:39,460 because the prices are so cheap 173 00:07:39,460 --> 00:07:40,740 that people overconsume 174 00:07:40,740 --> 00:07:42,300 and view their clothes as disposable. 175 00:07:42,300 --> 00:07:42,540 and view their clothes Amid the thousands of haul videos 176 00:07:42,540 --> 00:07:44,780 Amid the thousands of haul videos 177 00:07:44,780 --> 00:07:46,300 there IS a growing number 178 00:07:46,300 --> 00:07:50,100 of sustainability campaigners speaking out about fast fashion, 179 00:07:50,100 --> 00:07:53,220 with Shein as one of their main targets. 180 00:07:53,220 --> 00:07:53,500 This is the number of clothes these brands are selling with Shein as one of their main targets. 181 00:07:53,500 --> 00:07:55,420 This is the number of clothes these brands are selling 182 00:07:55,420 --> 00:07:55,660 This is the number of clothes on their US sites alone. 183 00:07:55,660 --> 00:07:57,140 on their US sites alone. 184 00:07:57,140 --> 00:08:00,300 Our planet can't sustain this amount of clothes. 185 00:08:00,300 --> 00:08:03,940 This making these guys look insignificant. 186 00:08:03,940 --> 00:08:04,180 This making these guys look insignificant. Horrifying. 187 00:08:04,180 --> 00:08:05,020 Horrifying. 188 00:08:06,540 --> 00:08:10,140 I wanted to know if Safiya had seen videos like these too. 189 00:08:10,140 --> 00:08:12,660 You hear things about every online shopping brand and you just think, 190 00:08:12,660 --> 00:08:14,340 "Oh, like, is it true? Is it not true?" 191 00:08:14,340 --> 00:08:15,860 And you're like, "Where am I buying this from?" 192 00:08:15,860 --> 00:08:17,420 You DO think about that? Oh, yeah, 193 00:08:17,420 --> 00:08:19,860 'cause sometimes you'll post a video, and someone will be like, 194 00:08:19,860 --> 00:08:22,220 "Oh, you know, this is shipped from somewhere and it's not great." 195 00:08:22,220 --> 00:08:22,460 "Oh, you know, this is shipped Like, how the people are treated 196 00:08:22,460 --> 00:08:23,700 Like, how the people are treated 197 00:08:23,700 --> 00:08:25,860 in, like, the factories and stuff that they're made in. 198 00:08:25,860 --> 00:08:27,740 Are they paid enough? Are they treated nicely? 199 00:08:27,740 --> 00:08:30,260 Online shopping brands are, like, seriously trying to gain our trust. 200 00:08:30,260 --> 00:08:32,620 They're trying to...look better. 201 00:08:39,940 --> 00:08:43,500 Last year Swiss human-rights journalist Timo 202 00:08:43,500 --> 00:08:45,620 published a report about the pay and conditions 203 00:08:45,620 --> 00:08:45,860 published a report in some of Shein's factories. 204 00:08:45,860 --> 00:08:47,700 in some of Shein's factories. 205 00:08:47,700 --> 00:08:47,940 His researchers spoke to 10 garment in some of Shein's factories. 206 00:08:47,940 --> 00:08:52,460 His researchers spoke to 10 garment workers from six different suppliers 207 00:08:52,460 --> 00:08:55,180 and presented his concerns to the brand. 208 00:08:55,180 --> 00:08:55,420 and presented his concerns After our report, 209 00:08:55,420 --> 00:08:56,660 After our report, 210 00:08:56,660 --> 00:08:56,900 Shein said they would investigate After our report, 211 00:08:56,900 --> 00:09:01,180 Shein said they would investigate the allegations themselves 212 00:09:01,180 --> 00:09:04,860 and now they DID publish a sustainability report. 213 00:09:04,860 --> 00:09:05,100 and now they DID publish In this report they said 214 00:09:05,100 --> 00:09:06,380 In this report they said 215 00:09:06,380 --> 00:09:06,620 they had investigated In this report they said 216 00:09:06,620 --> 00:09:10,140 they had investigated 700-something suppliers, 217 00:09:10,140 --> 00:09:16,340 and the result was that 83% of them required immediate action. 218 00:09:16,340 --> 00:09:19,820 I want to know if Shein has taken the corrective action 219 00:09:19,820 --> 00:09:22,100 it commits to in its own report. 220 00:09:23,740 --> 00:09:27,940 (BIRDS TWITTER) 221 00:09:27,940 --> 00:09:29,580 I'm meeting with a contact 222 00:09:29,580 --> 00:09:33,860 who has extensive experience investigating Chinese manufacturing. 223 00:09:33,860 --> 00:09:36,980 As his work often exposes wrongdoing, 224 00:09:36,980 --> 00:09:39,500 we have agreed to conceal his identity. 225 00:09:41,340 --> 00:09:43,100 Hello. Hi. 226 00:09:43,100 --> 00:09:44,500 Thank you for coming to meet me today. 227 00:09:44,500 --> 00:09:44,740 Thank you Sure. 228 00:09:44,740 --> 00:09:45,500 Sure. 229 00:09:45,500 --> 00:09:46,860 I'm making a documentary 230 00:09:46,860 --> 00:09:47,100 looking into the Chinese I'm making a documentary 231 00:09:47,100 --> 00:09:49,340 looking into the Chinese online fashion brand Shein 232 00:09:49,340 --> 00:09:49,580 looking into the Chinese and I'm trying to work out 233 00:09:49,580 --> 00:09:50,660 and I'm trying to work out 234 00:09:50,660 --> 00:09:54,860 how they manage to make so many items of clothes at such a cheap price. 235 00:10:15,980 --> 00:10:18,740 What would you recommend as being the best approach to take 236 00:10:18,740 --> 00:10:20,980 to find out how these clothes are being made? 237 00:10:44,100 --> 00:10:46,300 This will be the first time 238 00:10:46,300 --> 00:10:49,620 undercover cameras have been inside Shein's factories. 239 00:10:49,620 --> 00:10:51,620 What are the risks involved? 240 00:11:20,980 --> 00:11:24,700 While I'm finding out about the brand here in the UK, 241 00:11:24,700 --> 00:11:27,580 my contact sets up a parallel undercover investigation 242 00:11:27,580 --> 00:11:30,860 with a woman in China who we are calling Mei. 243 00:12:06,260 --> 00:12:10,860 If she discovers that workers only have one day off per month, 244 00:12:10,860 --> 00:12:11,100 that would break Chinese labour laws only have one day off per month, 245 00:12:11,100 --> 00:12:12,860 that would break Chinese labour laws 246 00:12:12,860 --> 00:12:16,340 and Shein's own supplier code of conduct. 247 00:12:26,660 --> 00:12:29,700 While Mei investigates how Shein are making the clothes, 248 00:12:29,700 --> 00:12:33,620 I want to find out how they're selling them to us. 249 00:12:33,620 --> 00:12:35,500 Marketing expert Andy 250 00:12:35,500 --> 00:12:38,500 researched the websites of the leading fast-fashion brands 251 00:12:38,500 --> 00:12:41,860 to work out how they convince us to fill our baskets. 252 00:12:43,860 --> 00:12:45,540 Hi, Andy. Hello. Nice to meet you. 253 00:12:45,540 --> 00:12:45,780 Hi, Andy. Nice to meet you too. How's it going? 254 00:12:45,780 --> 00:12:46,980 Nice to meet you too. How's it going? 255 00:12:46,980 --> 00:12:48,780 Great, thank you. Come and take a seat. 256 00:12:48,780 --> 00:12:51,020 I've been on the Shein website a few times in the past 257 00:12:51,020 --> 00:12:54,180 and even shopped on it once myself at the start of the pandemic, 258 00:12:54,180 --> 00:12:57,380 but what's really going on behind its digital curtain? 259 00:12:57,380 --> 00:12:59,620 This is the Shein website. 260 00:13:01,940 --> 00:13:06,060 Immediately the site's trying to take control of your browsing. 261 00:13:06,060 --> 00:13:11,180 (READS) "New users only - free shipping on £9.99-plus." 262 00:13:11,180 --> 00:13:14,620 Underneath there are, like... they look like little coupons. 263 00:13:14,620 --> 00:13:14,860 Underneath there are, like... Oh, my goodness, so many categories. 264 00:13:14,860 --> 00:13:17,060 Oh, my goodness, so many categories. 265 00:13:17,060 --> 00:13:18,380 "Up to 70% off." 266 00:13:18,380 --> 00:13:19,540 They have hot products. 267 00:13:19,540 --> 00:13:22,660 It's all about creating kind of this feeling of jeopardy. 268 00:13:22,660 --> 00:13:24,580 VENETIA LA MANNA: One of the scariest things about Shein 269 00:13:24,580 --> 00:13:28,340 is just how addictive it is to spend time on their apps. 270 00:13:28,340 --> 00:13:28,580 is just how addictive it is There's the sort of infinite scroll, 271 00:13:28,580 --> 00:13:30,820 There's the sort of infinite scroll, 272 00:13:30,820 --> 00:13:33,620 and the algorithm and the tech is so clever 273 00:13:33,620 --> 00:13:33,860 and the algorithm and the tech it feeds us exactly what we want. 274 00:13:33,860 --> 00:13:35,700 it feeds us exactly what we want. 275 00:13:35,700 --> 00:13:35,940 Oh, my goodness, this is actually dangerous. it feeds us exactly what we want. 276 00:13:35,940 --> 00:13:38,380 Oh, my goodness, this is actually dangerous. 277 00:13:38,380 --> 00:13:38,660 Oh, my goodness, this is actually dangerous. So, you've put one in the basket and now it's offering you more. 278 00:13:38,660 --> 00:13:41,780 So, you've put one in the basket and now it's offering you more. 279 00:13:41,780 --> 00:13:42,020 So, you've put one in the basket I saw it on the website 280 00:13:42,020 --> 00:13:43,180 I saw it on the website 281 00:13:43,180 --> 00:13:45,300 and it was actually cheaper for me to get it than not get it 282 00:13:45,300 --> 00:13:46,460 because it applied a discount. 283 00:13:46,460 --> 00:13:49,300 What kind of sets that apart from other websites? 284 00:13:49,300 --> 00:13:53,220 The research that we did looked at a single shopping trip 285 00:13:53,220 --> 00:13:55,180 on a variety of different fast-fashion sites. 286 00:13:55,180 --> 00:13:58,780 So, we counted the number of what we call 'dart patterns'. 287 00:13:58,780 --> 00:13:59,020 So, we counted the number These are behaviours on the website 288 00:13:59,020 --> 00:14:00,700 These are behaviours on the website 289 00:14:00,700 --> 00:14:00,940 that force you into actions These are behaviours on the website 290 00:14:00,940 --> 00:14:03,780 that force you into actions that you might not choose yourself, 291 00:14:03,780 --> 00:14:05,940 timing counters or special offers that are gonna run out. 292 00:14:05,940 --> 00:14:06,180 timing counters or special offers And we counted them up, 293 00:14:06,180 --> 00:14:07,500 And we counted them up, 294 00:14:07,500 --> 00:14:07,740 and Shein came out pretty much head And we counted them up, 295 00:14:07,740 --> 00:14:10,660 and Shein came out pretty much head and shoulders above all the others. 296 00:14:10,660 --> 00:14:10,900 and Shein came out pretty much head It's really the volume. 297 00:14:10,900 --> 00:14:12,180 It's really the volume. 298 00:14:12,180 --> 00:14:15,140 They're just layering up and layering up on your emotions 299 00:14:15,140 --> 00:14:17,060 as you're working your way through the site. 300 00:14:19,660 --> 00:14:21,900 These websites have got a lot of users, 301 00:14:21,900 --> 00:14:24,860 so, you can try a piece of marketing out 302 00:14:24,860 --> 00:14:27,540 and if it doesn't quite work, you can tweak it and try it again. 303 00:14:27,540 --> 00:14:32,060 Data is making marketing more like a loaded weapon, really. 304 00:14:32,060 --> 00:14:33,740 It's so highly tuned 305 00:14:33,740 --> 00:14:37,460 that we can virtually manipulate customers 306 00:14:37,460 --> 00:14:37,700 that we can virtually manipulate into doing what we want them to do. 307 00:14:37,700 --> 00:14:39,740 into doing what we want them to do. 308 00:14:39,740 --> 00:14:42,220 (INAUDIBLE DIALOGUE) 309 00:14:42,220 --> 00:14:43,860 They know the latest trends. 310 00:14:43,860 --> 00:14:45,100 That's so cute. 311 00:14:45,100 --> 00:14:49,260 They probably know what you want to buy before you know it yourself. 312 00:14:56,500 --> 00:14:59,900 My colleague Mei is posing as a garment worker in China 313 00:14:59,900 --> 00:15:03,740 to find out how it makes so many clothes so cheaply. 314 00:15:10,780 --> 00:15:13,420 It's Mei's first day on the factory floor. 315 00:15:24,020 --> 00:15:25,780 The pressure for factory bosses 316 00:15:25,780 --> 00:15:29,500 to deliver hundreds of small batches of clothes in record time 317 00:15:29,500 --> 00:15:33,420 creates a stressful and exhausting working environment for staff. 318 00:16:16,780 --> 00:16:18,260 Already we're seeing 319 00:16:18,260 --> 00:16:20,740 that not much seems to have changed in the factories 320 00:16:20,740 --> 00:16:22,980 despite Shein's promises. 321 00:16:23,980 --> 00:16:27,020 Thousands of new items drop on the website each day, 322 00:16:27,020 --> 00:16:28,740 and each worker is under pressure 323 00:16:28,740 --> 00:16:31,620 to complete hundreds of items every shift. 324 00:16:34,180 --> 00:16:38,460 I want to understand how this machine that Shein has created keeps growing. 325 00:16:38,460 --> 00:16:40,100 And especially I want to know 326 00:16:40,100 --> 00:16:43,140 how it uses influencers to market their clothes, 327 00:16:43,140 --> 00:16:44,780 mostly for free. 328 00:16:49,500 --> 00:16:53,100 21-year-old Georgia runs an influencer agency 329 00:16:53,100 --> 00:16:54,380 that represents up-and-coming talent 330 00:16:54,380 --> 00:16:56,620 by negotiating gifted collaborations 331 00:16:56,620 --> 00:16:59,860 with multiple fast-fashion brands like Shein 332 00:16:59,860 --> 00:17:02,420 in the hope of big money deals in the future. 333 00:17:13,500 --> 00:17:15,740 So, Shein have actually just sent an email 334 00:17:15,740 --> 00:17:18,260 saying they're looking for some new clients for collaborations. 335 00:17:18,260 --> 00:17:20,340 They've sent the requirements. Shall we do a post? 336 00:17:20,340 --> 00:17:22,740 So, I'm gonna do a post, so, hopefully they choose loads. 337 00:17:22,740 --> 00:17:23,820 Fingers crossed! 338 00:17:23,820 --> 00:17:25,380 Oh, my God! 339 00:17:25,380 --> 00:17:29,300 Today I'm going to join Georgia for a training session and photoshoot 340 00:17:29,300 --> 00:17:30,660 with some of her influencers. 341 00:17:30,660 --> 00:17:32,260 Hey! Hi! 342 00:17:33,220 --> 00:17:35,140 Hi! Hey! 343 00:17:35,140 --> 00:17:37,660 Let's go and get some content! Let's do this! 344 00:17:39,900 --> 00:17:42,140 Are we ready? I'm ready, yeah. 345 00:17:42,140 --> 00:17:43,020 (CAMERA SHUTTERS CLICK) 346 00:17:46,020 --> 00:17:47,940 What were you going for, Jordan, in this picture? 347 00:17:47,940 --> 00:17:48,180 What were you going for, Jordan, Extra-purple bitch. 348 00:17:48,180 --> 00:17:49,820 Extra-purple bitch. 349 00:17:49,820 --> 00:17:51,260 (ALL LAUGH) 350 00:17:51,260 --> 00:17:53,060 In between outfit changes 351 00:17:53,060 --> 00:17:53,300 I had a chat In between outfit changes 352 00:17:53,300 --> 00:17:55,740 I had a chat with the youngest influencer, Millie, 353 00:17:55,740 --> 00:17:59,060 who I'd heard is on her way to becoming a Shein girl. 354 00:18:00,100 --> 00:18:02,860 (INAUDIBLE DIALOGUE) 355 00:18:02,860 --> 00:18:04,060 You're 15? Yes. 356 00:18:04,060 --> 00:18:07,500 You're collaborating with Shein at the moment. 357 00:18:07,500 --> 00:18:09,460 Yes, I am. I do creative make-up on TikTok, 358 00:18:09,460 --> 00:18:13,380 so, I have built up quite a large following, nearly 30,000. 359 00:18:13,380 --> 00:18:13,620 so, I have built up quite How does it work? 360 00:18:13,620 --> 00:18:14,540 How does it work? 361 00:18:14,540 --> 00:18:14,780 So, they send me five items, How does it work? 362 00:18:14,780 --> 00:18:17,180 So, they send me five items, I choose them off the website, 363 00:18:17,180 --> 00:18:17,420 So, they send me five items, and then I make the TikTok, 364 00:18:17,420 --> 00:18:18,460 and then I make the TikTok, 365 00:18:18,460 --> 00:18:21,540 so, I'll try the item on and do fun transitions. 366 00:18:21,540 --> 00:18:23,500 I get a discount code as well, 367 00:18:23,500 --> 00:18:25,500 so, people type in my code 368 00:18:25,500 --> 00:18:28,340 and then Shein know that they've got that from my video 369 00:18:28,340 --> 00:18:30,620 and they get about 15% off. 370 00:18:30,620 --> 00:18:31,620 (CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS) 371 00:18:31,620 --> 00:18:34,380 Isn't there always an incentive to be positive 372 00:18:34,380 --> 00:18:35,700 even if the clothes aren't that good? 373 00:18:35,700 --> 00:18:38,340 If you feel like an item isn't very good, 374 00:18:38,340 --> 00:18:40,580 it doesn't fit right, it's not very good quality, 375 00:18:40,580 --> 00:18:41,540 it's always good to say that 376 00:18:41,540 --> 00:18:44,580 because I feel like if you lie to your audience they won't trust you. 377 00:18:44,580 --> 00:18:46,660 But I guess you still need people to want to advertise with you, 378 00:18:46,660 --> 00:18:46,900 But I guess you still need people so, you're balancing the audience... 379 00:18:46,900 --> 00:18:48,020 so, you're balancing the audience... 380 00:18:48,020 --> 00:18:48,260 Yeah, yeah, yeah. so, you're balancing the audience... 381 00:18:48,260 --> 00:18:49,420 Yeah, yeah, yeah. ..speak to them, 382 00:18:49,420 --> 00:18:51,140 and then giving the brand what they want. 383 00:18:51,140 --> 00:18:51,380 and then giving the brand Face forward. Three, two, one. 384 00:18:51,380 --> 00:18:52,780 Face forward. Three, two, one. 385 00:18:52,780 --> 00:18:53,580 (CAMERA SHUTTER CLICKS) 386 00:18:53,580 --> 00:18:56,180 Do you think that's cheeky that some brands give their merch 387 00:18:56,180 --> 00:18:58,380 knowing that they're going to make a lot of money off it 388 00:18:58,380 --> 00:19:00,140 but that those individuals don't always get paid? 389 00:19:00,140 --> 00:19:00,380 but that those individuals Shein hauls are really trending, 390 00:19:00,380 --> 00:19:01,380 Shein hauls are really trending, 391 00:19:01,380 --> 00:19:04,660 so, if people do Shein hauls they do get more views. 392 00:19:04,660 --> 00:19:05,860 Or Shein could maybe say, 393 00:19:05,860 --> 00:19:08,340 "We will boost your video if you do this for us," 394 00:19:08,340 --> 00:19:09,500 so, it's helping the brand 395 00:19:09,500 --> 00:19:09,740 because they're getting so, it's helping the brand 396 00:19:09,740 --> 00:19:11,380 because they're getting loads of views on their items, 397 00:19:11,380 --> 00:19:11,620 because they're getting it's helping the influencer 398 00:19:11,620 --> 00:19:12,420 it's helping the influencer 399 00:19:12,420 --> 00:19:14,940 because they're getting reach out to a wider audience. 400 00:19:14,940 --> 00:19:16,580 So, is success ultimately a numbers game? 401 00:19:16,580 --> 00:19:16,820 So, is success Yeah, the more likes, 402 00:19:16,820 --> 00:19:17,940 Yeah, the more likes, 403 00:19:17,940 --> 00:19:20,140 the more followers, the better engagement you have 404 00:19:20,140 --> 00:19:21,980 the more chance you've got of getting paid, big paid deals. 405 00:19:24,220 --> 00:19:28,820 Brands like Shein have seen that they are gonna get quite cheap marketing 406 00:19:28,820 --> 00:19:30,380 by using these micro influencers, 407 00:19:30,380 --> 00:19:34,340 and it really wouldn't cost them a lot to send somebody five items 408 00:19:34,340 --> 00:19:36,940 if you look at the prices on the website 409 00:19:36,940 --> 00:19:39,020 and the amount of money that they have to put in 410 00:19:39,020 --> 00:19:41,860 compared to the exposure that they are gonna get on these platforms. 411 00:19:41,860 --> 00:19:45,460 And if that person's got 8,000, 9,000 followers, 412 00:19:45,460 --> 00:19:50,460 then, you know, that's happy days for Shein. 413 00:19:50,460 --> 00:19:52,980 The influencers are working hard promoting clothes, 414 00:19:52,980 --> 00:19:55,500 dreaming of big paid deals in the future 415 00:19:55,500 --> 00:19:57,780 rather than just promoting 'gifts'. 416 00:19:59,060 --> 00:20:00,540 But what they don't know 417 00:20:00,540 --> 00:20:02,420 is what is going on behind closed doors 418 00:20:02,420 --> 00:20:05,500 at factories like the ones Shein uses. 419 00:20:05,500 --> 00:20:05,740 at factories My contact calls with an update. 420 00:20:05,740 --> 00:20:07,660 My contact calls with an update. 421 00:20:07,660 --> 00:20:09,540 (PHONE CHIMES) Hello? 422 00:20:09,540 --> 00:20:11,780 How's everything going at the moment? 423 00:20:40,460 --> 00:20:43,420 In China how many hours are you supposed to do? 424 00:20:57,540 --> 00:21:00,020 It's worth remembering that this isn't the first time 425 00:21:00,020 --> 00:21:03,820 that the working conditions in factories have been looked into, 426 00:21:03,820 --> 00:21:06,060 and Shein stated they would take action. 427 00:21:06,060 --> 00:21:09,660 But it is the first time cameras are capturing it in real time. 428 00:21:23,060 --> 00:21:26,380 Did she say anything about how she feels about the experience? 429 00:21:56,460 --> 00:22:02,060 If Mei makes a mistake, it will cost her three-quarters of her daily wage. 430 00:22:03,860 --> 00:22:05,020 At 10:00PM 431 00:22:05,020 --> 00:22:09,180 most of the garment workers have been on shift for 14 hours. 432 00:22:37,220 --> 00:22:38,700 From Mei's footage 433 00:22:38,700 --> 00:22:41,980 it's clear that there continues to be direct contraventions 434 00:22:41,980 --> 00:22:46,060 of Shein's own code of conduct and Chinese labour laws. 435 00:22:46,060 --> 00:22:46,340 of Shein's own code of conduct and Chinese labour laws. What do you think, having heard all of this? 436 00:22:46,340 --> 00:22:48,020 What do you think, having heard all of this? 437 00:23:07,100 --> 00:23:08,580 I'm starting to understand 438 00:23:08,580 --> 00:23:12,180 both how the marketing and manufacturing branches of Shein work 439 00:23:12,180 --> 00:23:15,980 but now I'm left questioning - what's the bigger impact? 440 00:23:19,020 --> 00:23:21,220 There is another tribe of influencers 441 00:23:21,220 --> 00:23:24,740 spreading a different message in the wake of the climate crisis. 442 00:23:24,740 --> 00:23:25,820 Sunday-morning car-boot sale 443 00:23:25,820 --> 00:23:29,300 and I've only got £20 because we are looking for the deals today. 444 00:23:29,300 --> 00:23:29,540 and I've only got £20 because Shein joined the market 445 00:23:29,540 --> 00:23:31,340 Shein joined the market 446 00:23:31,340 --> 00:23:31,580 at a time when the entire industry Shein joined the market 447 00:23:31,580 --> 00:23:34,300 at a time when the entire industry was facing criticism 448 00:23:34,300 --> 00:23:37,700 about the damaging impact it has on the environment. 449 00:23:37,700 --> 00:23:37,980 Many of the biggest brands were quick to respond about the damaging impact it has on the environment. 450 00:23:37,980 --> 00:23:40,580 Many of the biggest brands were quick to respond 451 00:23:40,580 --> 00:23:42,500 with bring-back schemes, recycled fabrics 452 00:23:42,500 --> 00:23:42,740 with bring-back schemes, recycled fabrics and ethical clothing lines. 453 00:23:42,740 --> 00:23:45,140 and ethical clothing lines. 454 00:23:51,660 --> 00:23:54,620 These people are quite fashionable around here today. 455 00:23:54,620 --> 00:23:56,860 It's because everyone's come to get their Instagram pictures. 456 00:23:59,820 --> 00:24:02,500 I'm meeting model and influencer Rosie, 457 00:24:02,500 --> 00:24:04,340 who was approached by one of Shein's competitors 458 00:24:04,340 --> 00:24:08,380 hoping to use her sustainability credentials to boost their image. 459 00:24:11,020 --> 00:24:13,220 The light is hitting you just right. 460 00:24:13,220 --> 00:24:17,660 They make it really difficult for us to be able to figure out 461 00:24:17,660 --> 00:24:17,900 They make it really difficult whether or not they're greenwashing 462 00:24:17,900 --> 00:24:19,660 whether or not they're greenwashing 463 00:24:19,660 --> 00:24:20,980 and that is because 464 00:24:20,980 --> 00:24:21,220 and that is because of the money that they're pumping into these campaigns, 465 00:24:21,220 --> 00:24:23,220 of the money that they're pumping into these campaigns, 466 00:24:23,220 --> 00:24:27,700 which they have made through the exploitation of people and planet, 467 00:24:27,700 --> 00:24:30,980 the very thing that they're trying to tell you 468 00:24:30,980 --> 00:24:33,220 they're all about and they're all for. 469 00:24:35,820 --> 00:24:39,380 When you think of Shein, what do you think of? 470 00:24:40,340 --> 00:24:41,820 The world burning. Like... 471 00:24:41,820 --> 00:24:42,060 (LAUGHS) The world burning. Like... 472 00:24:42,060 --> 00:24:43,940 (LAUGHS) It's awful! 473 00:24:43,940 --> 00:24:46,020 It's awful. It's literally destroying the planet. 474 00:24:46,020 --> 00:24:46,260 It's awful. It's literally Shein is so extremely cheap 475 00:24:46,260 --> 00:24:48,300 Shein is so extremely cheap 476 00:24:48,300 --> 00:24:48,540 and it is just built for one wear Shein is so extremely cheap 477 00:24:48,540 --> 00:24:51,940 and it is just built for one wear because things fall apart like that. 478 00:24:51,940 --> 00:24:53,860 It's such a single-use idea of clothes. 479 00:24:53,860 --> 00:24:57,620 It's, like, disposable clothes that can never be disposed of. 480 00:25:00,060 --> 00:25:03,380 If fast fashion is a no-no, what kind of brands do you want to work with? 481 00:25:03,380 --> 00:25:06,300 I think definitely brands who sort of are really transparent 482 00:25:06,300 --> 00:25:07,980 about their garment-workers' rights 483 00:25:07,980 --> 00:25:10,620 and then also environmentally and ethically sound. 484 00:25:10,620 --> 00:25:12,900 Often if I'm working with brands through Instagram 485 00:25:12,900 --> 00:25:15,140 I'll ask for their sustainability breakdown 486 00:25:15,140 --> 00:25:17,380 so I can see, like, their production line and everything like that, 487 00:25:17,380 --> 00:25:18,700 and if they don't share that 488 00:25:18,700 --> 00:25:18,940 that usually means and if they don't share that 489 00:25:18,940 --> 00:25:21,660 that usually means there's something wrong. 490 00:25:37,060 --> 00:25:39,260 Do you think they can ever be sustainable? 491 00:25:39,260 --> 00:25:42,220 Shein's business model is that it isn't sustainable or ethical, 492 00:25:42,220 --> 00:25:44,260 so, for it to become a sustainable brand, 493 00:25:44,260 --> 00:25:48,020 it would have to completely break itself down and restart. 494 00:25:58,860 --> 00:26:00,700 What is really amazing with Shein 495 00:26:00,700 --> 00:26:03,220 is that on one side 496 00:26:03,220 --> 00:26:03,460 you have this app full of colours is that on one side 497 00:26:03,460 --> 00:26:07,740 you have this app full of colours and sizes and shapes 498 00:26:07,740 --> 00:26:09,300 and it's a very bright world, 499 00:26:09,300 --> 00:26:10,780 and then when you start to look 500 00:26:10,780 --> 00:26:11,020 at who's behind that, and then when you start to look 501 00:26:11,020 --> 00:26:13,260 at who's behind that, who's the company, 502 00:26:13,260 --> 00:26:14,940 it's a big black hole. 503 00:26:14,940 --> 00:26:18,740 Shein's founder is Chinese business mogul Chris Xu. 504 00:26:18,740 --> 00:26:22,420 He is not a fashion person, he's a tech person, 505 00:26:22,420 --> 00:26:24,220 he's good in algorithms, 506 00:26:24,220 --> 00:26:26,380 and that's what Shein does brilliantly. 507 00:26:26,380 --> 00:26:26,620 and that's what Shein does Colleagues and rivals 508 00:26:26,620 --> 00:26:27,940 Colleagues and rivals 509 00:26:27,940 --> 00:26:28,180 have described him as 'hard-working', Colleagues and rivals 510 00:26:28,180 --> 00:26:32,020 have described him as 'hard-working', 'supportive', but 'ruthless'. 511 00:26:32,020 --> 00:26:32,260 have described him as 'hard-working', Unlike other tech entrepreneurs, 512 00:26:32,260 --> 00:26:34,020 Unlike other tech entrepreneurs, 513 00:26:34,020 --> 00:26:38,540 he keeps a low profile and refuses to give interviews. 514 00:26:38,540 --> 00:26:40,060 With Shein's unparalleled success, 515 00:26:40,060 --> 00:26:44,140 he's estimated to be worth almost £5 billion. 516 00:26:44,140 --> 00:26:47,620 The profits on cheap clothes clearly add up. 517 00:26:56,220 --> 00:26:58,460 Fern worked for Primark for five years 518 00:26:58,460 --> 00:27:01,340 before starting her sustainable lingerie business. 519 00:27:06,660 --> 00:27:09,260 I'm joining her at a local vintage shop 520 00:27:09,260 --> 00:27:12,620 to find out why she turned her back on fast fashion. 521 00:27:12,620 --> 00:27:14,860 This is a lot bigger on the inside than it looks like from the outside. 522 00:27:14,860 --> 00:27:17,220 Yeah, it's like an Aladdin's cave in here. 523 00:27:17,220 --> 00:27:20,540 I usually start at the back where all the most dramatic pieces are. 524 00:27:22,220 --> 00:27:24,660 Are there specific things that you look for? 525 00:27:24,660 --> 00:27:27,620 I love a lot of lace, a lot of mesh, a lot of velvet. 526 00:27:27,620 --> 00:27:30,300 I don't tend to like the design, trend-based things. 527 00:27:30,300 --> 00:27:34,540 Why was it so important to start a sustainable fashion brand? 528 00:27:34,540 --> 00:27:36,820 I worked in Primark for about five years, 529 00:27:36,820 --> 00:27:38,820 so, I HAVE been in the fast-fashion industry. 530 00:27:38,820 --> 00:27:42,140 Coming out of uni I kind of felt a responsibility 531 00:27:42,140 --> 00:27:44,660 as being...you know, we're the next generation, 532 00:27:44,660 --> 00:27:48,940 so, we need to sort of improve things and change up how we consume. 533 00:27:48,940 --> 00:27:51,340 We're burning up so many fossil fuels 534 00:27:51,340 --> 00:27:54,220 in our fabrics that we're using, so... 535 00:27:54,220 --> 00:27:57,420 And it's just the overconsumption of fashion as well. 536 00:27:57,420 --> 00:28:01,460 And I think when you buy a piece that costs a bit more 537 00:28:01,460 --> 00:28:05,900 but you know it's been lovingly handmade by someone 538 00:28:05,900 --> 00:28:08,540 and you can see their face attached to their brand, 539 00:28:08,540 --> 00:28:12,700 I think, the consumer, they almost care about it more 540 00:28:12,700 --> 00:28:12,940 I think, the consumer, and they want it to last longer. 541 00:28:12,940 --> 00:28:15,180 and they want it to last longer. 542 00:28:15,180 --> 00:28:16,500 Oh, wow! 543 00:28:16,500 --> 00:28:18,260 It's all organic jersey, 544 00:28:18,260 --> 00:28:21,180 so, they're very responsible in how they source the fabrics. 545 00:28:21,180 --> 00:28:21,460 It's all dyed with eco-friendly digital dyes, so, they're very responsible in how they source the fabrics. 546 00:28:21,460 --> 00:28:24,740 It's all dyed with eco-friendly digital dyes, 547 00:28:24,740 --> 00:28:24,980 so, there is little water wastage. digital dyes, 548 00:28:24,980 --> 00:28:26,420 so, there is little water wastage. 549 00:28:26,420 --> 00:28:28,140 This is beautiful! 550 00:28:28,140 --> 00:28:28,380 This is beautiful! It looks so lovingly made. 551 00:28:28,380 --> 00:28:30,140 Thank you. It looks so lovingly made. 552 00:28:30,140 --> 00:28:32,700 So, how long would it take you to make a top like this? 553 00:28:32,700 --> 00:28:32,940 It takes upwards of about 3.5 hours. to make a top like this? 554 00:28:32,940 --> 00:28:34,740 It takes upwards of about 3.5 hours. 555 00:28:34,740 --> 00:28:34,980 It takes upwards of about 3.5 hours. Each one. 556 00:28:34,980 --> 00:28:36,140 OK. Each one. 557 00:28:36,140 --> 00:28:36,420 OK. Each one. That's not including the design process, 558 00:28:36,420 --> 00:28:38,220 That's not including the design process, 559 00:28:38,220 --> 00:28:40,860 the sourcing, the bows that are all handmade. 560 00:28:40,860 --> 00:28:41,140 It takes a lot, but I think it's such a pay-off at the end the sourcing, the bows that are all handmade. 561 00:28:41,140 --> 00:28:44,060 It takes a lot, but I think it's such a pay-off at the end 562 00:28:44,060 --> 00:28:46,700 and you know you're gonna get something really unique. 563 00:28:46,700 --> 00:28:46,940 and you know you're gonna get something really unique. Despite being a small business, 564 00:28:46,940 --> 00:28:49,220 Despite being a small business, 565 00:28:49,220 --> 00:28:51,540 one of Fern's designs was spotted by Shein 566 00:28:51,540 --> 00:28:53,820 as it scraped the internet for new trends. 567 00:28:55,100 --> 00:28:57,300 I made a set, handmade from lace. 568 00:28:57,300 --> 00:28:58,900 Instantly it was a bestseller. 569 00:28:58,900 --> 00:29:00,220 And then a couple of weeks later 570 00:29:00,220 --> 00:29:01,820 I got a DM from a customer 571 00:29:01,820 --> 00:29:02,060 who said, "Hey, I got a DM from a customer 572 00:29:02,060 --> 00:29:04,900 who said, "Hey, I've just seen this set on Shein." 573 00:29:04,900 --> 00:29:07,980 It seemed really obvious to me down to every last detail 574 00:29:07,980 --> 00:29:08,220 It seemed really obvious to me that it was a copy. 575 00:29:08,220 --> 00:29:09,620 that it was a copy. 576 00:29:09,620 --> 00:29:11,020 Oh, OK. 577 00:29:11,020 --> 00:29:12,700 There's not a lot of difference, is there? 578 00:29:12,700 --> 00:29:12,940 There's not a lot of difference, It is very similar. 579 00:29:12,940 --> 00:29:14,060 It is very similar. 580 00:29:14,060 --> 00:29:14,300 So, the bottom one's your design. It is very similar. 581 00:29:14,300 --> 00:29:16,340 So, the bottom one's your design. Yeah, that's the original. 582 00:29:16,340 --> 00:29:17,980 And the top one is their design. Yeah. 583 00:29:17,980 --> 00:29:21,820 I could see how many people had purchased it and reviewed it, 584 00:29:21,820 --> 00:29:24,420 so, I knew that they'd made money off of this. 585 00:29:24,420 --> 00:29:27,820 So, how much were the items that you designed and were selling 586 00:29:27,820 --> 00:29:30,340 compared to the copies that Shein were selling? 587 00:29:30,340 --> 00:29:34,180 So, my design was about £65 to £70 around, 588 00:29:34,180 --> 00:29:38,460 but the Shein copy, it varied from around £4 to £7. 589 00:29:38,460 --> 00:29:38,700 but the Shein copy, It was incredibly cheap. 590 00:29:38,700 --> 00:29:42,060 It was incredibly cheap. 591 00:29:42,060 --> 00:29:43,540 And what would you say to people 592 00:29:43,540 --> 00:29:43,780 that maybe didn't have £70 And what would you say to people 593 00:29:43,780 --> 00:29:48,100 that maybe didn't have £70 to spend on a set of underwear? 594 00:29:48,100 --> 00:29:52,340 I deserve to be paid fairly for the work I do. 595 00:29:52,340 --> 00:29:55,180 And I think it leads to the bigger question, 596 00:29:55,180 --> 00:29:58,820 maybe our living wage needs to be up a bit, you know. 597 00:29:58,820 --> 00:30:01,620 The fact that we can't afford clothing 598 00:30:01,620 --> 00:30:01,860 The fact where people are being paid fairly 599 00:30:01,860 --> 00:30:04,420 where people are being paid fairly 600 00:30:04,420 --> 00:30:06,820 is saying something about our wages. 601 00:30:06,820 --> 00:30:10,180 If I see a dress I really love and it's £14, 602 00:30:10,180 --> 00:30:10,420 If I see a dress I really love I automatically think, 603 00:30:10,420 --> 00:30:11,660 I automatically think, 604 00:30:11,660 --> 00:30:11,900 "But then how much has that person I automatically think, 605 00:30:11,900 --> 00:30:15,420 "But then how much has that person been paid to create that?" 606 00:30:15,420 --> 00:30:18,940 These workers are constantly under pressure 607 00:30:18,940 --> 00:30:19,180 These workers and because they're paid by piece 608 00:30:19,180 --> 00:30:21,900 and because they're paid by piece 609 00:30:21,900 --> 00:30:22,140 they are incentivised and because they're paid by piece 610 00:30:22,140 --> 00:30:25,260 they are incentivised to work crazy hours. 611 00:30:40,860 --> 00:30:43,820 Workers employed directly by this factory 612 00:30:43,820 --> 00:30:45,740 receive a base salary plus commission 613 00:30:45,740 --> 00:30:48,660 on the amount of garments they complete each day. 614 00:30:48,660 --> 00:30:51,740 So, they must keep a close eye on the numbers. 615 00:31:08,540 --> 00:31:10,180 After an 18 hour day 616 00:31:10,180 --> 00:31:12,300 this woman made £19, 617 00:31:12,300 --> 00:31:12,540 roughly equivalent to three of Fern's this woman made £19, 618 00:31:12,540 --> 00:31:17,180 roughly equivalent to three of Fern's underwear sets as sold by Shein. 619 00:31:20,180 --> 00:31:22,420 What did you do after you saw what happened? 620 00:31:22,420 --> 00:31:25,260 I posted about it on Twitter and I made an Instagram post 621 00:31:25,260 --> 00:31:27,940 calling them out, and that's when they replied back to me. 622 00:31:27,940 --> 00:31:29,620 And what did they say when they replied? 623 00:31:29,620 --> 00:31:29,860 And what did they say They took the listing off the shop 624 00:31:29,860 --> 00:31:31,700 They took the listing off the shop 625 00:31:31,700 --> 00:31:33,460 and they kind of apologised 626 00:31:33,460 --> 00:31:36,780 and then gave me an email address to contact, 627 00:31:36,780 --> 00:31:40,300 which I did and then I never got a reply. 628 00:31:40,300 --> 00:31:43,460 These people in these factories that are making clothes for Shein 629 00:31:43,460 --> 00:31:46,940 they probably have more hours' practice and experience behind them 630 00:31:46,940 --> 00:31:47,180 they probably have more hours' than I do. 631 00:31:47,180 --> 00:31:48,420 than I do. 632 00:31:48,420 --> 00:31:48,660 Why should I get paid a decent wage than I do. 633 00:31:48,660 --> 00:31:51,500 Why should I get paid a decent wage and they don't? 634 00:31:51,500 --> 00:31:51,740 Why should I get paid a decent wage It's incredibly unfair. 635 00:31:51,740 --> 00:31:53,380 It's incredibly unfair. 636 00:31:53,380 --> 00:31:56,700 And to think that I or a design I had stolen 637 00:31:56,700 --> 00:31:57,900 played a part in that 638 00:31:57,900 --> 00:31:59,380 was really upsetting. 639 00:31:59,380 --> 00:32:01,660 So, you felt implicated? Yeah. 640 00:32:04,580 --> 00:32:06,140 During a break 641 00:32:06,140 --> 00:32:09,660 Mei learns that the monthly base salary comes with a catch. 642 00:32:35,740 --> 00:32:40,020 While Mei was finding it hard to meet the minimum daily target, 643 00:32:40,020 --> 00:32:43,020 the other workers were working until 2:00AM 644 00:32:43,020 --> 00:32:46,300 in order to make the per-garment commission earn them a living wage. 645 00:32:50,980 --> 00:32:52,540 In the past two decades 646 00:32:52,540 --> 00:32:52,780 the number of clothes In the past two decades 647 00:32:52,780 --> 00:32:55,540 the number of clothes made around the world has doubled. 648 00:32:55,540 --> 00:32:55,780 the number of clothes Fashion is currently churning out 649 00:32:55,780 --> 00:32:57,020 Fashion is currently churning out 650 00:32:57,020 --> 00:33:00,180 150 billion items of clothing every single year. 651 00:33:00,180 --> 00:33:01,100 They have given us this idea 652 00:33:01,100 --> 00:33:03,580 that we are entitled to buy as many new clothes as we want 653 00:33:03,580 --> 00:33:05,060 as frequently as we want. 654 00:33:06,980 --> 00:33:08,660 We know in the UK alone 655 00:33:08,660 --> 00:33:12,340 we send a truckload of clothes to landfill every single second. 656 00:33:12,340 --> 00:33:16,620 That high turnover of fast fashion has to go somewhere. 657 00:33:19,100 --> 00:33:20,740 I want to find out 658 00:33:20,740 --> 00:33:20,980 what happens to the clothes we put I want to find out 659 00:33:20,980 --> 00:33:25,260 what happens to the clothes we put in the recycling bin here in the UK. 660 00:33:27,700 --> 00:33:30,380 Hi! Hi, Maria. Nice to meet you. 661 00:33:30,380 --> 00:33:32,020 I love the shirt. Thank you. 662 00:33:32,020 --> 00:33:32,260 I love the shirt. Welcome to my queendom. 663 00:33:32,260 --> 00:33:33,660 Welcome to my queendom. 664 00:33:33,660 --> 00:33:38,820 I'm here to meet the CEO of the clothing recycling charity TRAID. 665 00:33:40,820 --> 00:33:44,060 This is huge. I've never seen this amount of clothes all in one place. 666 00:33:44,060 --> 00:33:48,620 So, we collect 3,500 tonnes of clothes every year. 667 00:33:49,780 --> 00:33:52,020 This is all out of season... OK. 668 00:33:52,020 --> 00:33:53,460 So, like, winter stuff? 669 00:33:53,460 --> 00:33:55,660 Yeah, absolutely. Yep. 670 00:33:55,660 --> 00:33:58,020 Hi. How are you? Long time no see. 671 00:33:58,020 --> 00:33:59,300 Christmas jumpers... 672 00:33:59,300 --> 00:34:01,180 Christmas jumpers! They're a pain in the arse. 673 00:34:01,180 --> 00:34:03,660 That should be banned as well. You're gonna cancel Christmas? 674 00:34:03,660 --> 00:34:05,860 I want to cancel Christmas, yeah. Oh, my goodness. 675 00:34:05,860 --> 00:34:07,820 That's not gonna go down very well with people. 676 00:34:07,820 --> 00:34:08,860 No. 677 00:34:08,860 --> 00:34:12,060 When you look at how cheaply you can buy clothes on fast-fashion websites, 678 00:34:12,060 --> 00:34:12,300 When you look at how cheaply you can the high turnover of clothes, 679 00:34:12,300 --> 00:34:13,700 the high turnover of clothes, 680 00:34:13,700 --> 00:34:13,940 maybe one of the winners the high turnover of clothes, 681 00:34:13,940 --> 00:34:15,580 maybe one of the winners in all of this 682 00:34:15,580 --> 00:34:15,820 maybe one of the winners is the second-hand clothes industry. 683 00:34:15,820 --> 00:34:18,060 is the second-hand clothes industry. 684 00:34:18,060 --> 00:34:20,700 Our sales are sort of going through the roof at the moment 685 00:34:20,700 --> 00:34:21,940 on the high street 686 00:34:21,940 --> 00:34:24,820 because second-hand clothes are more in fashion. 687 00:34:24,820 --> 00:34:28,900 But what we used to get in was quality clothing 688 00:34:28,900 --> 00:34:31,940 that would just sort of stay in this circular loop. 689 00:34:31,940 --> 00:34:35,140 Now what we get is a high portion of fast fashion, 690 00:34:35,140 --> 00:34:38,940 it's not quality and it's not built to last. 691 00:34:38,940 --> 00:34:42,460 It's dramatically increased over the last two years. 692 00:34:43,620 --> 00:34:46,500 The quality of these isn't quite as nice. 693 00:34:46,500 --> 00:34:48,260 I actually broke them the first time I tried them on. 694 00:34:48,260 --> 00:34:51,020 But they were so cheap you can't even, like, complain. 695 00:34:51,020 --> 00:34:52,980 You can still see the creases from the packet, 696 00:34:52,980 --> 00:34:53,260 so, I'd say this maybe has not been worn. You can still see the creases from the packet, 697 00:34:53,260 --> 00:34:55,300 so, I'd say this maybe has not been worn. 698 00:34:55,300 --> 00:34:56,580 OK, that's interesting. 699 00:34:56,580 --> 00:34:58,580 Shiny, night out. 700 00:34:58,580 --> 00:34:59,780 Mm-hm. 701 00:34:59,780 --> 00:35:00,020 Mm-hm. Maybe someone changed their mind on going out. 702 00:35:00,020 --> 00:35:02,300 Maybe someone changed their mind on going out. 703 00:35:02,300 --> 00:35:04,060 This is a perfect example. 704 00:35:04,060 --> 00:35:05,540 Really, really bad. 705 00:35:05,540 --> 00:35:07,060 It won't degrade either. 706 00:35:07,060 --> 00:35:09,900 This is Shein as well. There's a lot of Shein in here. 707 00:35:09,900 --> 00:35:14,820 This you cannot resell because it's so cheap to buy in the first place. 708 00:35:14,820 --> 00:35:16,140 Well, it can only have been 709 00:35:16,140 --> 00:35:17,620 this much in the first place... Yeah, yeah. 710 00:35:17,620 --> 00:35:17,860 this much in the first place... ..and your bargain self is like, 711 00:35:17,860 --> 00:35:19,100 ..and your bargain self is like, 712 00:35:19,100 --> 00:35:19,340 "Well, I can't be spending more than ..and your bargain self is like, 713 00:35:19,340 --> 00:35:21,340 "Well, I can't be spending more than it would have cost in the shop." 714 00:35:21,340 --> 00:35:22,340 Yeah. You know? 715 00:35:22,340 --> 00:35:26,100 One thing about Shein that takes most people by surprise 716 00:35:26,100 --> 00:35:27,540 is their returns policy. 717 00:35:27,540 --> 00:35:31,420 Sometimes the cost to them of a return simply isn't worth it, 718 00:35:31,420 --> 00:35:34,820 so, they'll issue a refund and allow you to just keep the clothes. 719 00:35:37,780 --> 00:35:40,260 So, where do you think the responsibility lies then? 720 00:35:40,260 --> 00:35:40,500 So, where do you think So, really, it's up to the producer 721 00:35:40,500 --> 00:35:42,900 So, really, it's up to the producer 722 00:35:42,900 --> 00:35:43,140 to stop producing So, really, it's up to the producer 723 00:35:43,140 --> 00:35:46,860 to stop producing unwearable, unsustainable clothes 724 00:35:46,860 --> 00:35:49,500 that have no additional value or life. 725 00:35:49,500 --> 00:35:52,700 So, Shein, because they don't have a face, 726 00:35:52,700 --> 00:35:56,540 the influencers are the face and the brand 727 00:35:56,540 --> 00:35:57,900 for these organisations. 728 00:35:57,900 --> 00:36:00,060 Wearing a garment once, 729 00:36:00,060 --> 00:36:04,380 which was a huge driver for overproduction of fast fashion. 730 00:36:04,380 --> 00:36:05,780 If you're throwing into the bin 731 00:36:05,780 --> 00:36:09,820 clothing that still has life in it and other people can wear, 732 00:36:09,820 --> 00:36:12,300 what you're doing is you're perpetuating 733 00:36:12,300 --> 00:36:14,300 new clothes needing to be made 734 00:36:14,300 --> 00:36:17,020 and using up the earth's natural resources. 735 00:36:20,980 --> 00:36:23,580 Shein donated $50 million 736 00:36:23,580 --> 00:36:26,540 to kind of offset the effect that their fast fashion has. 737 00:36:26,540 --> 00:36:26,780 to kind of offset the effect What do you think about that? 738 00:36:26,780 --> 00:36:28,020 What do you think about that? 739 00:36:28,020 --> 00:36:28,260 You can't say that you're committed What do you think about that? 740 00:36:28,260 --> 00:36:31,900 You can't say that you're committed to solving a problem 741 00:36:31,900 --> 00:36:34,140 when you're the person creating the problem. 742 00:36:34,140 --> 00:36:36,940 They are producing and making these clothes 743 00:36:36,940 --> 00:36:39,420 and then trying to offer some small solution 744 00:36:39,420 --> 00:36:41,580 to a much bigger problem that they're creating. 745 00:36:41,580 --> 00:36:46,500 It's greenwashing, making people think it's OK to buy this rubbish 746 00:36:46,500 --> 00:36:47,300 when it's not. 747 00:36:47,300 --> 00:36:50,740 Fashion is one of the most polluting industries in the world. 748 00:36:50,740 --> 00:36:56,380 In fact, it's more polluting than air travel and shipping combined. 749 00:36:56,380 --> 00:37:00,660 There's people dying globally from climate change, 750 00:37:00,660 --> 00:37:03,780 and our clothes are driving that. 751 00:37:07,740 --> 00:37:09,980 I've just received the next batch of footage 752 00:37:09,980 --> 00:37:10,220 I've just received from our Chinese journalist, Mei. 753 00:37:10,220 --> 00:37:12,220 from our Chinese journalist, Mei. 754 00:37:14,220 --> 00:37:16,420 After a 14-hour shift 755 00:37:16,420 --> 00:37:19,060 Mei goes for dinner with two other employees 756 00:37:19,060 --> 00:37:19,300 Mei goes for dinner to find out more about their lives 757 00:37:19,300 --> 00:37:20,860 to find out more about their lives 758 00:37:20,860 --> 00:37:21,100 as some of China's to find out more about their lives 759 00:37:21,100 --> 00:37:25,140 as some of China's 15 million garment workers. 760 00:38:27,940 --> 00:38:32,020 Mei goes back to the factory to see if it's still open. 761 00:39:07,740 --> 00:39:12,580 It's against the law in China to work more than eight hours a day 762 00:39:12,580 --> 00:39:17,020 and overtime is no more than three additional hours. 763 00:39:17,020 --> 00:39:21,300 Employers must also guarantee at least one day off a week. 764 00:39:22,660 --> 00:39:24,140 Mei is discovering 765 00:39:24,140 --> 00:39:24,380 that factory workers Mei is discovering 766 00:39:24,380 --> 00:39:27,180 that factory workers are regularly working 16 hours a day 767 00:39:27,180 --> 00:39:27,420 that factory workers with only one day off a month. 768 00:39:27,420 --> 00:39:29,380 with only one day off a month. 769 00:39:29,380 --> 00:39:33,540 This is also in breach of Shein's own code of conduct. 770 00:39:56,260 --> 00:39:57,740 This is relentless. 771 00:39:57,740 --> 00:40:02,220 Whether or not, you know, you looking at that website makes you feel like, 772 00:40:02,220 --> 00:40:05,220 "Oh, I'm gonna think about the person in China that's making this," 773 00:40:05,220 --> 00:40:07,980 the reality is you are connected to that person. 774 00:40:07,980 --> 00:40:10,500 You can try and deny it, but they've made the product. 775 00:40:10,500 --> 00:40:10,740 You can try and deny it, To be sure these issues 776 00:40:10,740 --> 00:40:11,980 To be sure these issues 777 00:40:11,980 --> 00:40:12,220 aren't just a reflection To be sure these issues 778 00:40:12,220 --> 00:40:14,900 aren't just a reflection of this one Shein supplier, 779 00:40:14,900 --> 00:40:18,660 Mei goes undercover in a second factory. 780 00:40:19,740 --> 00:40:22,940 She finds the conditions to be incredibly similar. 781 00:40:28,700 --> 00:40:31,940 Again wages are based on how many garments they complete 782 00:40:31,940 --> 00:40:34,180 rather than how many hours they work. 783 00:40:47,500 --> 00:40:49,700 With no base salary at this factory, 784 00:40:49,700 --> 00:40:54,060 wages are entirely dependent on how many pieces you can complete. 785 00:40:54,060 --> 00:40:56,660 And while the piece-rate is higher than before, 786 00:40:56,660 --> 00:41:00,460 it is often reduced when workers make mistakes. 787 00:41:17,220 --> 00:41:20,940 And again typically only one day off per month. 788 00:41:41,220 --> 00:41:45,540 And with a never-ending demand of new styles being tested on the website 789 00:41:45,540 --> 00:41:48,780 and thousands of suppliers in competition with one another, 790 00:41:48,780 --> 00:41:49,020 and thousands of suppliers the factory environment is stressful. 791 00:41:49,020 --> 00:41:51,460 the factory environment is stressful. 792 00:42:20,340 --> 00:42:24,060 So, when you see how much they're getting paid per item, 793 00:42:24,060 --> 00:42:24,300 So, when you see how much it's so small, 794 00:42:24,300 --> 00:42:25,580 it's so small, 795 00:42:25,580 --> 00:42:25,820 that incentivises people it's so small, 796 00:42:25,820 --> 00:42:28,060 that incentivises people to work even harder 797 00:42:28,060 --> 00:42:31,220 to just churn out as many pieces as they can do. 798 00:42:46,260 --> 00:42:47,740 It's not that, you know, 799 00:42:47,740 --> 00:42:47,980 this company is unique It's not that, you know, 800 00:42:47,980 --> 00:42:50,660 this company is unique in having practices like this, 801 00:42:50,660 --> 00:42:55,260 but this is a massive company that is making so much money. 802 00:42:55,260 --> 00:42:59,060 I contacted Shein's head office with our findings. 803 00:42:59,060 --> 00:43:00,740 In order to protect both our reporter, Mei, 804 00:43:00,740 --> 00:43:00,980 In order to protect and those she worked with, 805 00:43:00,980 --> 00:43:02,340 and those she worked with, 806 00:43:02,340 --> 00:43:04,580 we haven't disclosed the exact locations 807 00:43:04,580 --> 00:43:06,500 of the factories we filmed in. 808 00:43:06,500 --> 00:43:09,700 Their PR team sent me a response, which said: 809 00:43:23,540 --> 00:43:28,060 Specifically on the matter of working conditions and hours, they told me: 810 00:44:00,140 --> 00:44:02,180 And, finally, when it came to design theft, 811 00:44:02,180 --> 00:44:03,460 they said: 812 00:44:11,220 --> 00:44:12,700 Recently Shein said it's hoping 813 00:44:12,700 --> 00:44:12,940 Recently Shein said it's hoping emissions reduction of 25% 814 00:44:12,940 --> 00:44:16,260 to achieve an overall emissions reduction of 25% 815 00:44:16,260 --> 00:44:16,500 across its entire business. emissions reduction of 25% 816 00:44:16,500 --> 00:44:18,100 across its entire business. 817 00:44:18,100 --> 00:44:18,300 across its entire business. All I can hope is that this time 818 00:44:18,300 --> 00:44:20,260 All I can hope is that this time 819 00:44:20,260 --> 00:44:20,500 the issues we found All I can hope is that this time 820 00:44:20,500 --> 00:44:23,060 the issues we found will finally be addressed by Shein 821 00:44:23,060 --> 00:44:26,100 and that other journalists won't be asking these same questions 822 00:44:26,100 --> 00:44:26,340 and that other journalists in the future. 823 00:44:26,340 --> 00:44:27,620 in the future. 824 00:44:29,180 --> 00:44:31,180 Captions by Red Bee Media 825 00:44:31,180 --> 00:44:33,380 Copyright Australian Broadcasting Corporation