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[gentle mariachi music plays]
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[people cheering]
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[lively mariachi music playing]
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[people cheering]
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[music continues]
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[music ends]
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[opening theme song plays]
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♪ A happy, hungry man's ♪
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♪ Traveling all across the sea
And the land ♪
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♪ He's trying to understand ♪
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♪ The art of pasta, pork
Chicken, and lamb ♪
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♪ He will drive to you ♪
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♪ He will fly to you ♪
14
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♪ He will sing for you ♪
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♪ And he'll dance for you ♪
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♪ He will laugh with you ♪
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♪ And he'll cry for you ♪
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♪ There's just one thing
He asks in return ♪
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♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
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♪ Can somebody ♪
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♪ Somebody feed Phil ♪
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♪ Somebody feed him now ♪
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[Phil] Mexico has a vibrancy
that's simply unmistakable.
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[dance music playing]
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When I visited Mexico City,
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people kept telling me that if I really
wanted to taste the origin of the cuisine,
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I had to venture further into the country,
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to a city that seems
almost unpronounceable
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-when you look at it, Oaxaca.
-[insects buzzing]
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It's in the southwest part of Mexico.
It's the cultural and culinary capital.
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We're gonna have a lot of mole
and a lot of mescal,
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'cause this is where it's from.
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00:02:44,081 --> 00:02:46,751
But first, you know my favorite way
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to familiarize myself
with a new city is at the market.
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[exciting music plays]
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Here in Oaxaca,
the big one's called Central de Abastos.
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This market is over 800 acres.
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It's a city unto itself.
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You can buy everything
from wedding dresses to,
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00:03:03,476 --> 00:03:04,685
uh, whatever this is.
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00:03:04,769 --> 00:03:08,689
My guide to the market
is food expert Omar Alonso.
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00:03:09,607 --> 00:03:12,985
Omar has an Instagram that I recommend
if you're coming down here.
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It's called Oaxacking.
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So rich, right?
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[Phil] This is the real stuff, people.
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[Omar] Look, anything
that you can think of,
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you find it here.
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00:03:24,413 --> 00:03:26,499
This is one of my favorite spots
in the market.
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It's called Pasillo de Humo.
50
00:03:28,292 --> 00:03:30,044
-De Humo?
-The Smoke Aisle.
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There's a holy light pouring in.
52
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-Right here. Look, go like this.
-[angelically] Ah!
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00:03:34,799 --> 00:03:35,841
[Omar laughs]
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Meet my friend Marie.
She's been here four generations.
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You come here, you buy the meats.
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-Yeah.
-It's mainly beef and pork.
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-Yes.
-And then they all have a grill,
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so they let you use it for free.
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[Phil] You pick the meat you want.
You go just to the side.
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There's a grill that's going.
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-Grilling right here?
-Right here. So…
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Look at this. I've never seen this.
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Well, what happens when it's very busy,
and they say, "Hurry up! Grill your meat"?
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No, they don't,
because everybody understands.
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You come because you want
to have a nice moment with your family,
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so you're not in a rush.
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Yes, I was just thinking of America.
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-[laughs] Yeah.
-[Phil chuckles]
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This is real Oaxacking,
what you're showing.
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[Omar laughs]
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Oh!
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[Omar laughs]
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-[Phil] Oh! Oh!
-[whimsical music plays]
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[in Spanish] What's your name?
What's your name?
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Jesse Mirel Morales Sanchez.
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-[Omar] Jesse Mirel Morales Sanchez.
-[in English] Hello, Jesse Mirel.
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Jesse Mirel?
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Ah!
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-Bye, Jesse.
-We got it.
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So we need to move it along.
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[Phil's voice] Omar has a plan
for our grilled meat.
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He's taking us to a special place
in the market where we'll eat.
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[mellow music playing]
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Hidden in this market is a legend,
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Doña Vale.
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All right, so this is a memela.
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[Omar] It's a very thin, uh, tortilla,
but when it's cooking,
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they pinch it so that is going to hold on
to the ingredients you put on it.
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-That's lard right there.
-[Phil] Yes.
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00:05:04,555 --> 00:05:07,224
And, uh, just cheese and salsa.
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00:05:07,308 --> 00:05:09,602
You can add black beans too, if you want,
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00:05:09,685 --> 00:05:10,936
but hers is very special
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because that salsa
is the most famous salsa that she makes.
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It's a very darkened, smoky chili,
called Morita with green tomatillo.
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This preparation,
it starts the day before,
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because she has to roast the chilies
and then fry them.
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[Phil] Omar orders us tacos
with the meat we grilled,
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as well as some roast pork
and a bowl of the Morita sauce.
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Here, we don't use silverware,
so you just have to go in with your hands.
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[Phil] I'm used to it.
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Mm! Mm!
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-[in Spanish] No, it's fine.
-[in English] Wait a minute. This sauce.
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Wait a minute. The sauce.
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-It's like barbecue sauce. [chuckles]
-It's crazy.
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So good.
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This Morita sauce
is one of the most damn delicious things
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I ever put in my stupid face.
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[Omar] Right?
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She can just, like, come here
and sell the salsa to go and that's it.
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00:06:05,366 --> 00:06:08,285
She doesn't even have to make
any more food, but she loves it, so…
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00:06:08,786 --> 00:06:10,162
Nothing you can do about it.
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00:06:10,246 --> 00:06:12,331
-But this is a genius who makes that.
-Yeah. Mm-hmm.
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00:06:13,749 --> 00:06:14,708
[Omar chuckles]
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00:06:14,792 --> 00:06:16,127
[Dona Vale speaks Spanish]
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-[Omar] It's from her heart.
-From-- from my heart, I love this.
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00:06:20,131 --> 00:06:21,924
-[Omar translates]
-Fantastic.
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00:06:23,717 --> 00:06:26,887
By the way, she was gonna give me
an egg on the side, so I said,
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00:06:26,971 --> 00:06:29,098
"Just put it on the steak."
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00:06:29,181 --> 00:06:32,685
-Put a little Morita, dip this.
-[Omar] Of course.
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00:06:33,436 --> 00:06:34,270
I'm doing that.
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00:06:35,062 --> 00:06:37,731
Great bite. I'm gonna copy that
next time that I come.
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00:06:38,649 --> 00:06:41,026
I'm gonna call it the Phil Special,
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00:06:41,110 --> 00:06:44,155
and I'm going to tag you every time
I do it so you can remember it.
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I'm happy that I could "Oaxack" you.
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[laughs]
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00:06:47,450 --> 00:06:49,410
[upbeat music plays]
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00:06:50,619 --> 00:06:53,414
[Phil] My day with Omar continues.
I want him with me!
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We're taking a drive outside of town.
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We're going down a dusty dirt road.
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00:06:59,420 --> 00:07:00,963
We're coming up to a gate.
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00:07:01,046 --> 00:07:05,676
I have no idea what's here,
where am I, and the gate opened
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00:07:06,844 --> 00:07:08,095
to paradise.
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00:07:08,179 --> 00:07:10,222
[pleasant mariachi music plays]
134
00:07:10,306 --> 00:07:11,140
Wow!
135
00:07:11,223 --> 00:07:13,017
-Come on in, Phil.
-Hola.
136
00:07:13,100 --> 00:07:14,852
-This is Jorge.
-This is Jorge!
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00:07:14,935 --> 00:07:15,895
Jorge.
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00:07:15,978 --> 00:07:17,521
What a pleasure to meet you.
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00:07:17,605 --> 00:07:19,815
[in Spanish] Nice to meet you. Omar.
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00:07:19,899 --> 00:07:22,776
[Phil in English]
We're in Jorge León's home,
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00:07:22,860 --> 00:07:25,821
where he lives with his mom Elvia.
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00:07:25,905 --> 00:07:26,947
[Omar] Tía Elvia!
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00:07:27,031 --> 00:07:30,159
In Oaxaca, as a way to respect our elders…
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00:07:30,242 --> 00:07:32,495
-[Phil] Yes.
-…we call them tíos or tías,
145
00:07:32,578 --> 00:07:34,079
which means "aunt" or "uncle."
146
00:07:34,163 --> 00:07:36,916
-Tía Elvia. Hola.
-[Elvia in Spanish] Hello. How are you?
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00:07:36,999 --> 00:07:37,875
Nice to meet you.
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00:07:38,792 --> 00:07:40,586
[in English] These happen to be
brilliant chefs
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00:07:40,669 --> 00:07:44,048
who've turned their home
into a restaurant called Alfonsina.
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00:07:44,131 --> 00:07:46,050
Their specialty, mole.
151
00:07:46,550 --> 00:07:49,512
He's getting ready
to prep the vegetable mole.
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00:07:49,595 --> 00:07:52,223
Pumpkin seeds, garlic,
two types of chilies right now.
153
00:07:52,306 --> 00:07:53,933
-[Phil] Looks like lemons.
-Roasted apples.
154
00:07:54,016 --> 00:07:56,018
-Oh, apples! Wow!
-Mm-hmm.
155
00:07:56,101 --> 00:07:57,811
That's what he uses instead of sugar.
156
00:07:57,895 --> 00:08:00,272
-[Phil] There's no rules, right?
-There's no rules.
157
00:08:00,356 --> 00:08:03,067
Every family has their own recipe,
the secret ingredient.
158
00:08:03,150 --> 00:08:07,071
Your mother probably got it from
her mother, who got it from her mother.
159
00:08:07,154 --> 00:08:09,490
It's just been part of our culture
and our families.
160
00:08:09,573 --> 00:08:11,033
-Feels like part of the land.
-Mm-hmm.
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00:08:11,867 --> 00:08:13,869
[Phil] I didn't know
they were gonna put me to work.
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00:08:13,953 --> 00:08:17,540
This is an important job too,
roasting the ingredients on the comal,
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00:08:17,623 --> 00:08:20,501
which is the smooth flat griddle
they use to heat up everything.
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00:08:20,584 --> 00:08:23,254
It's the centerpiece
of every Oaxacan kitchen.
165
00:08:23,337 --> 00:08:25,589
I mean, the best way
to learn is by doing, right?
166
00:08:25,673 --> 00:08:26,924
So, today, I'm learning.
167
00:08:28,008 --> 00:08:30,052
-Oh. See what happens?
-[Omar chuckles]
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00:08:30,553 --> 00:08:34,139
You might want to use your hands,
'cause I do want my mole to be tasty.
169
00:08:34,223 --> 00:08:35,140
[both laugh]
170
00:08:35,224 --> 00:08:38,477
-[upbeat mariachi music plays]
-[mouths] I don't know what I'm doing.
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00:08:39,270 --> 00:08:41,647
[Omar] The hardest part is coming,
which is the grinding.
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00:08:42,273 --> 00:08:43,524
Yes, I can do this badly.
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All this prep is to make
mole rojo, or red mole.
174
00:08:47,987 --> 00:08:49,947
Different moles
have different ingredients,
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00:08:50,030 --> 00:08:52,783
dried chilies, nuts,
and spices are common.
176
00:08:52,866 --> 00:08:56,287
Some, but not all, have chocolate.
I mean, the variations seem endless.
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And then there's black mole,
or mole negro.
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00:08:59,290 --> 00:09:00,666
That's their specialty.
179
00:09:01,208 --> 00:09:04,962
In fact, Jorge worked at Pujol,
world-renowned Chef Enrique Olvera's
180
00:09:05,045 --> 00:09:08,299
super-fancy restaurant
we visited in the Mexico City episode.
181
00:09:09,133 --> 00:09:12,428
The mole negro was so good there,
I had to do this.
182
00:09:13,887 --> 00:09:15,848
[whimsical piano music playing]
183
00:09:15,931 --> 00:09:17,850
You can't have mole
without homemade tortillas.
184
00:09:17,933 --> 00:09:20,477
We're not animals.
So I'm back on the clock.
185
00:09:20,561 --> 00:09:22,563
[Omar] So you have to start
rolling your masa.
186
00:09:22,646 --> 00:09:24,898
-[Phil] All right.
-[Omar] Make it into a little ball.
187
00:09:26,025 --> 00:09:28,110
So, making, uh, tortillas is really fun.
188
00:09:28,193 --> 00:09:31,196
I had no idea
how beautiful the process was.
189
00:09:31,947 --> 00:09:33,824
Tía Elvia makes it look so easy.
190
00:09:34,408 --> 00:09:35,326
[Omar] You ready?
191
00:09:35,409 --> 00:09:37,077
-[Elvia speaks Spanish]
-It's your turn.
192
00:09:37,161 --> 00:09:39,872
[Phil] But she's an expert.
Me, on the other hand…
193
00:09:40,914 --> 00:09:41,749
[speaks Spanish]
194
00:09:41,832 --> 00:09:45,794
You have to squeeze it just right,
peel the plastic away.
195
00:09:46,295 --> 00:09:47,129
[Phil grunts]
196
00:09:47,755 --> 00:09:48,756
[grunts]
197
00:09:48,839 --> 00:09:52,718
Gently turn it over on your hand,
and then just peel it.
198
00:09:54,470 --> 00:09:55,804
Who wants a taco?
199
00:09:57,514 --> 00:09:59,433
[Richard and Omar laugh]
200
00:10:03,437 --> 00:10:06,649
[Phil] Anything I have to do
with my hands, please don't count on me.
201
00:10:06,732 --> 00:10:08,525
You're not cooperating.
202
00:10:08,609 --> 00:10:09,485
[chuckles]
203
00:10:10,903 --> 00:10:13,656
Look at-- Now, look at--
Do you see the perfection?
204
00:10:14,740 --> 00:10:15,866
Like a perfect circle.
205
00:10:16,408 --> 00:10:18,494
She's actually getting on my nerves now.
206
00:10:18,577 --> 00:10:20,579
[Omar and Richard laugh]
207
00:10:20,663 --> 00:10:22,665
[mellow guitar music plays]
208
00:10:23,582 --> 00:10:25,751
[Phil] I'm better at eating tortillas
than making them,
209
00:10:25,834 --> 00:10:27,836
so after I got out of the way,
210
00:10:27,920 --> 00:10:31,924
Jorge and Elvia graced us
with their amazing mole rojo.
211
00:10:32,549 --> 00:10:33,425
Oh, boy.
212
00:10:33,967 --> 00:10:35,886
-Oh…
-[Omar] Oh, this looks very fancy.
213
00:10:38,180 --> 00:10:41,433
[Jorge speaks Spanish]
214
00:10:42,059 --> 00:10:43,977
"Pescado" I understand, is fish.
215
00:10:44,061 --> 00:10:46,146
-Mole is the one you just made.
-That you just made.
216
00:10:46,230 --> 00:10:50,025
Oh, and I helped a little bit.
Tortillas where I ruined a little bit.
217
00:10:50,818 --> 00:10:52,152
[Omar] Fish and mustard.
218
00:10:52,236 --> 00:10:53,237
Mustard greens.
219
00:10:53,821 --> 00:10:56,782
[Omar] Mole in Oaxaca,
we don't eat it with a knife and a fork.
220
00:10:56,865 --> 00:10:58,826
-Use the tortillas as the spoon.
-It's hot.
221
00:10:58,909 --> 00:10:59,993
Or you can make a taco.
222
00:11:00,077 --> 00:11:01,453
What if I do this, people?
223
00:11:01,537 --> 00:11:02,746
Ha-ha! Look at that.
224
00:11:03,914 --> 00:11:04,873
[giggles]
225
00:11:05,624 --> 00:11:06,667
[pleasant music playing]
226
00:11:06,750 --> 00:11:09,294
[Phil's voice] You see all the ingredients
that go into this thing,
227
00:11:09,378 --> 00:11:10,462
and then you taste it,
228
00:11:10,546 --> 00:11:13,048
and everything is so dialed in
229
00:11:13,132 --> 00:11:16,969
that you can almost pick out
every single ingredient.
230
00:11:18,095 --> 00:11:19,012
What the hell?
231
00:11:21,640 --> 00:11:25,769
But they're not done.
Jorge and his mom bring out the big guns.
232
00:11:26,562 --> 00:11:30,649
I finally get to taste mole negro,
the mother of all moles.
233
00:11:31,191 --> 00:11:33,152
So, if you go to, uh, a wedding,
234
00:11:33,235 --> 00:11:36,113
-a baptism, a party, a funeral in Oaxaca…
-Yes.
235
00:11:36,196 --> 00:11:38,866
…the way they're going to serve
the mole is like this.
236
00:11:39,450 --> 00:11:41,577
[Phil] The chefs added chicken
to their mole today.
237
00:11:42,077 --> 00:11:45,205
Look at that. It's soft and beautiful.
Oh, man! Come on!
238
00:11:45,914 --> 00:11:47,291
I'm a lucky boy.
239
00:11:48,751 --> 00:11:49,918
Careful, it's hot, okay?
240
00:11:50,711 --> 00:11:51,628
But it's delicious.
241
00:11:55,007 --> 00:11:56,508
And so this is a famous mole.
242
00:11:56,592 --> 00:11:58,677
-This will be--
-[Omar and Richard laughing]
243
00:11:58,761 --> 00:11:59,636
Here you go.
244
00:12:00,888 --> 00:12:01,722
It's hot!
245
00:12:02,222 --> 00:12:04,099
[Omar] Can't say I didn't tell you, okay?
246
00:12:04,600 --> 00:12:05,517
[chuckles]
247
00:12:06,143 --> 00:12:07,811
I'm sorry. I can't hear you anymore.
248
00:12:07,895 --> 00:12:09,897
-[chuckles]
-I'm just in the zone, you know?
249
00:12:09,980 --> 00:12:10,814
[Omar] Uh-huh.
250
00:12:12,232 --> 00:12:16,069
[Phil] And since we're in Oaxaca,
a little mescal to wash it all down.
251
00:12:16,695 --> 00:12:17,738
[glasses clink]
252
00:12:21,241 --> 00:12:22,493
[in Spanish] My friends.
253
00:12:22,993 --> 00:12:23,827
[Omar chuckles]
254
00:12:24,411 --> 00:12:26,079
[Phil and Omar in English] Life is good.
255
00:12:26,163 --> 00:12:28,373
I don't know what you're gonna do
without me tomorrow.
256
00:12:28,457 --> 00:12:30,167
There's a solution.
I don't do without you.
257
00:12:30,250 --> 00:12:31,293
[Omar laughs]
258
00:12:32,544 --> 00:12:34,254
[music crescendos, fades]
259
00:12:34,338 --> 00:12:36,340
[birds singing]
260
00:12:36,924 --> 00:12:38,717
[mellow jazz music playing]
261
00:12:38,801 --> 00:12:41,303
[Phil's voice] I'm back in Oaxaca City,
and you know what I need?
262
00:12:41,386 --> 00:12:42,638
A little chocolate.
263
00:12:43,514 --> 00:12:46,099
If you know me, that's no surprise at all.
But guess what?
264
00:12:46,183 --> 00:12:48,560
Oaxaca is where chocolate was perfected.
265
00:12:48,644 --> 00:12:51,647
The Aztecs, the Mayans,
all the way back to the Olmecs,
266
00:12:51,730 --> 00:12:55,442
who first cultivated
the region's cacao in 1500 B.C.
267
00:12:56,109 --> 00:12:59,988
They knew what they were doing,
so that now, centuries later,
268
00:13:00,072 --> 00:13:02,032
I could be in my happy place.
269
00:13:06,662 --> 00:13:07,996
Not a bad morning.
270
00:13:10,833 --> 00:13:13,460
[pensive mariachi music plays]
271
00:13:16,213 --> 00:13:18,549
The main Square in Oaxaca
is called the Zócalo.
272
00:13:19,424 --> 00:13:21,844
Exquisite architecture,
marvelous handmade goods.
273
00:13:21,927 --> 00:13:24,930
It's all here, right in the center
of this historic district.
274
00:13:28,600 --> 00:13:31,311
And then if you have an appetite,
which I happen to have,
275
00:13:31,395 --> 00:13:35,107
a short walk east leads you
to where all good things begin.
276
00:13:37,067 --> 00:13:40,487
Rodolfo Castellanos has
one of the best restaurants in Oaxaca.
277
00:13:40,571 --> 00:13:41,697
It's called Origin.
278
00:13:42,781 --> 00:13:46,243
If you saw our New Orleans episode,
you remember my friends Chris and Leanne.
279
00:13:46,326 --> 00:13:48,579
They happen to be in Oaxaca this week.
280
00:13:48,662 --> 00:13:50,247
-How are you, guys?
-Rodolfo!
281
00:13:50,330 --> 00:13:52,666
And Chef Rodolfo is joining us for lunch.
282
00:13:53,709 --> 00:13:56,461
We want to honor all the products
that we have in Oaxaca.
283
00:13:56,545 --> 00:14:01,300
We're very, like, blessed to have
like a fantastic variety on corn,
284
00:14:01,383 --> 00:14:02,467
leaves, chilies.
285
00:14:02,551 --> 00:14:04,553
So we celebrate everything showing it.
286
00:14:05,137 --> 00:14:06,179
-Oh…
-[Leanne] My gosh.
287
00:14:06,263 --> 00:14:08,807
This is what we mean
with quelites, a variety of greens…
288
00:14:08,891 --> 00:14:10,017
[Leanne] Beautiful.
289
00:14:10,100 --> 00:14:12,936
…and worms, which are also, like, a nice…
290
00:14:13,020 --> 00:14:14,813
-Did you say worms?
-Worms, yes.
291
00:14:14,897 --> 00:14:18,317
I'm gonna show you something now
called worm salad. Let me finish.
292
00:14:18,400 --> 00:14:20,110
[Richard laughs]
293
00:14:21,194 --> 00:14:23,322
[Chris] Do you eat the worm
separate or all together?
294
00:14:23,405 --> 00:14:25,240
[Rodolfo] All together,
because, I mean, they--
295
00:14:25,324 --> 00:14:27,284
Because otherwise you realize it's a worm.
296
00:14:27,367 --> 00:14:31,914
The idea of having different layers
of flavors, that's what we like to do in…
297
00:14:31,997 --> 00:14:34,625
-[Phil] Everybody show your worm.
-[Leanne] Okay, I've got a worm.
298
00:14:34,708 --> 00:14:36,460
-Cheers.
-[upbeat music plays]
299
00:14:36,543 --> 00:14:37,586
To worms.
300
00:14:37,669 --> 00:14:38,754
[Chris chuckles]
301
00:14:42,090 --> 00:14:43,425
-[Chris] Mm.
-[Richard laughs]
302
00:14:45,510 --> 00:14:46,845
Tastes like chicken.
303
00:14:46,929 --> 00:14:48,430
[all laughing]
304
00:14:48,931 --> 00:14:51,224
-They all say that.
-[Chris laughs]
305
00:14:51,308 --> 00:14:53,310
If you didn't know
there was a worm in there,
306
00:14:53,393 --> 00:14:55,145
you'd never know
there was a worm in there.
307
00:14:55,228 --> 00:14:56,355
[Leanne] It's very delicious.
308
00:14:56,438 --> 00:15:00,233
Oh, Richard… we've been
hearing from the audience,
309
00:15:00,317 --> 00:15:02,361
and their favorite thing
is when this happens.
310
00:15:02,444 --> 00:15:03,612
There you go.
311
00:15:03,695 --> 00:15:06,114
-[Chris laughs]
-You had a lot more salad on your thing.
312
00:15:06,198 --> 00:15:07,366
[Phil] Yes, I did.
313
00:15:07,449 --> 00:15:08,450
[Chris laughs]
314
00:15:13,121 --> 00:15:14,373
-[Phil] Good, right?
-It's good.
315
00:15:14,456 --> 00:15:15,791
-[Phil laughs]
-[Leanne] Delicious.
316
00:15:15,874 --> 00:15:17,376
-You'd never know.
-[Richard] It's good.
317
00:15:17,459 --> 00:15:18,585
[Rodolfo] Thank you.
318
00:15:18,669 --> 00:15:21,129
You know what the specialty
of the house is here?
319
00:15:21,213 --> 00:15:23,048
Tongue. Let me finish.
320
00:15:23,131 --> 00:15:24,591
[exciting string music playing]
321
00:15:24,675 --> 00:15:27,719
Beef tongue is one of the best meats
in the world. Ask any deli man.
322
00:15:27,803 --> 00:15:29,054
Ask Max Rosenthal.
323
00:15:29,137 --> 00:15:30,389
Well, you can't anymore.
324
00:15:30,472 --> 00:15:32,557
But he loved it.
325
00:15:33,141 --> 00:15:34,184
[Rodolfo] Fresh tortillas.
326
00:15:34,267 --> 00:15:35,936
-[Phil] Love the holster.
-[Leanne] I know.
327
00:15:36,019 --> 00:15:38,438
I should wear that around my belt,
don't you think?
328
00:15:38,522 --> 00:15:39,773
Always have a tortilla.
329
00:15:39,856 --> 00:15:41,566
-[laughs]
-[imitates whooshing]
330
00:15:41,650 --> 00:15:42,484
There you go.
331
00:15:42,567 --> 00:15:45,028
[Chris] I'm almost scared,
'cause I know it's gonna be so good.
332
00:15:45,612 --> 00:15:46,863
-[Phil] You gonna cry?
-Yes.
333
00:15:51,201 --> 00:15:52,077
Oh, my God.
334
00:15:53,036 --> 00:15:54,913
[Phil] It's so satisfying
335
00:15:55,914 --> 00:15:57,624
in the most "comfort food" way.
336
00:15:58,125 --> 00:16:00,711
[upbeat mariachi music plays]
337
00:16:04,756 --> 00:16:05,590
There's Mom.
338
00:16:05,674 --> 00:16:07,467
-[chuckles] Wow! Hi.
-Oh!
339
00:16:07,551 --> 00:16:08,844
-Hola.
-Hola.
340
00:16:08,927 --> 00:16:11,888
-[Mrs. Castellanos speaks Spanish]
-[Phil] And what's inside?
341
00:16:11,972 --> 00:16:14,141
-Mole. Mole and chicken, yes.
-[Leanne] Mole and chicken.
342
00:16:14,224 --> 00:16:17,185
-Oh, okay. Muchas gracias.
-[in Spanish] Thanks, Mommy.
343
00:16:17,269 --> 00:16:20,439
[Phil in English] Our tamales
in the United States are dry,
344
00:16:20,522 --> 00:16:21,898
and these are so moist and--
345
00:16:21,982 --> 00:16:24,901
-[Leanne] Delicious. The mole is amazing.
-The mole is spectacular.
346
00:16:24,985 --> 00:16:27,070
[Chris] What would you say
is the definition of mole?
347
00:16:27,154 --> 00:16:28,155
Like, what is mole?
348
00:16:28,238 --> 00:16:32,367
Mole and salsa,
they can mean the same if you want,
349
00:16:32,451 --> 00:16:35,328
but like salsa, it's always a complement,
350
00:16:35,412 --> 00:16:37,914
and the mole, it's a main dish.
351
00:16:38,415 --> 00:16:39,833
Composed with different ingredients,
352
00:16:39,916 --> 00:16:42,878
Oaxaca has like seven,
eight different moles.
353
00:16:42,961 --> 00:16:46,673
Traditionally, they are, like,
divided into colors and stuff.
354
00:16:46,757 --> 00:16:49,092
We have to try them all
at some point, so there's…
355
00:16:49,176 --> 00:16:50,260
[chuckles]
356
00:16:50,343 --> 00:16:53,096
When you met your wife,
did you have to taste her mole
357
00:16:53,180 --> 00:16:55,307
before you knew that she was the one?
358
00:16:55,390 --> 00:16:57,100
-That's a very good question.
-Yes.
359
00:16:57,851 --> 00:16:59,436
I had to try more than mole.
360
00:16:59,519 --> 00:17:00,353
[all laugh]
361
00:17:00,437 --> 00:17:01,646
[music ends]
362
00:17:03,273 --> 00:17:05,275
-[birds singing]
-[insects chirping]
363
00:17:07,861 --> 00:17:09,863
[somber music plays]
364
00:17:15,619 --> 00:17:18,163
[Phil's voice] I'm heading back
to the outskirts of Oaxaca City,
365
00:17:18,246 --> 00:17:21,083
exploring the small towns
that dot the countryside.
366
00:17:21,625 --> 00:17:23,668
This next stop is very special.
367
00:17:25,504 --> 00:17:27,547
This is the Vida Nueva Collective,
368
00:17:27,631 --> 00:17:31,009
and my tour guide is Bethsaida Lopez Diaz.
369
00:17:31,093 --> 00:17:32,636
-Hola.
-Hola.
370
00:17:32,719 --> 00:17:34,513
-[women] Hola.
-Hi, chicas. Hola.
371
00:17:34,596 --> 00:17:37,849
-[Phil chuckles]
-[in Spanish] Welcome. Welcome.
372
00:17:37,933 --> 00:17:40,811
[Phil in English] This is the founder
of the collective, Pastora.
373
00:17:40,894 --> 00:17:42,395
Their story is amazing.
374
00:17:42,479 --> 00:17:45,315
These were women
who were widowed, or abused even,
375
00:17:45,398 --> 00:17:48,401
or just left alone in a world where
a woman's work outside the home
376
00:17:48,485 --> 00:17:49,945
wasn't valued or wanted even.
377
00:17:51,279 --> 00:17:57,035
And then they decided to pool their
knowledge and form this collective.
378
00:17:57,119 --> 00:17:58,370
And what do they do?
379
00:17:58,453 --> 00:18:00,831
They weave the most beautiful rugs
you ever saw.
380
00:18:03,125 --> 00:18:05,544
-This is the finished products.
-[Bethsaida] Sí.
381
00:18:05,627 --> 00:18:07,504
And each rug takes three months to make?
382
00:18:07,587 --> 00:18:12,384
[in Spanish] Depending on the design,
usually some take two weeks to a month.
383
00:18:12,467 --> 00:18:15,512
If they are bigger,
two months to three months.
384
00:18:15,595 --> 00:18:17,013
[Phil in English] It's amazing.
385
00:18:17,097 --> 00:18:19,516
[soulful mariachi music plays]
386
00:18:26,022 --> 00:18:28,692
This is from fairy-tale books
from when we are children.
387
00:18:28,775 --> 00:18:30,944
We know this as the spinning wheel, right?
388
00:18:31,778 --> 00:18:36,158
This has been one of the oldest techniques
brought by the Spanish people.
389
00:18:37,200 --> 00:18:39,661
-Come on. Try it. It's very fun.
-[Phil] Okay.
390
00:18:43,039 --> 00:18:44,416
-How's that?
-[Richard laughs]
391
00:18:44,499 --> 00:18:45,625
[women laugh]
392
00:18:45,709 --> 00:18:48,545
-[Bethsaida] It was hard. I know.
-How do you say, "I'm sorry"?
393
00:18:48,628 --> 00:18:49,754
[in Spanish] I'm sorry.
394
00:18:49,838 --> 00:18:50,797
[in English] It's okay.
395
00:18:51,715 --> 00:18:55,135
You know what I'm good at?
I can write a sitcom if you ever need one.
396
00:18:55,218 --> 00:18:57,220
[Richard laughs]
397
00:18:59,264 --> 00:19:01,641
We are going to see
the area where they weave.
398
00:19:01,725 --> 00:19:04,227
Great. Oh, yeah, the loom.
399
00:19:06,146 --> 00:19:08,523
[woman in Spanish] This is very fun.
400
00:19:09,524 --> 00:19:13,737
It's very fun because it's like dancing.
401
00:19:13,820 --> 00:19:16,031
Like dancing on the pedals with my feet.
402
00:19:16,114 --> 00:19:17,407
One, two… One, two…
403
00:19:17,490 --> 00:19:19,743
-[chuckles]
-It's like exercise.
404
00:19:20,368 --> 00:19:21,411
Hands.
405
00:19:21,494 --> 00:19:23,872
[in English] Yeah? And feet.
406
00:19:23,955 --> 00:19:26,249
Hands and feet. And your head.
407
00:19:26,333 --> 00:19:30,086
-[in Spanish] All connected for this job.
-[in English] Yeah.
408
00:19:31,213 --> 00:19:35,759
[woman in Spanish] In the past,
people thought that women
409
00:19:35,842 --> 00:19:39,262
didn't have the strength.
410
00:19:39,346 --> 00:19:41,014
We need to give it a pull.
411
00:19:41,097 --> 00:19:43,350
-With force.
-[Phil in English] Ah, yeah.
412
00:19:44,351 --> 00:19:46,394
These women are such sweet
and generous hosts,
413
00:19:46,478 --> 00:19:49,356
but they really do need
to find a new headhunter.
414
00:19:49,439 --> 00:19:51,191
-Put it through, right?
-Yes.
415
00:19:51,274 --> 00:19:52,943
[Bethsaida in Spanish] Pass it.
416
00:19:53,026 --> 00:19:55,820
[in English] You need
make a little mountain here.
417
00:19:55,904 --> 00:19:58,865
-[Phil] Make a little mountain. Yeah.
-Mm-hmm. [chuckles]
418
00:19:58,949 --> 00:20:00,951
-[Phil] Change feet.
-Okay. Muy bien!
419
00:20:01,034 --> 00:20:02,118
-Do it!
-[wood clacks]
420
00:20:02,202 --> 00:20:03,870
[women] Bravo!
421
00:20:03,954 --> 00:20:05,205
-Bravo.
-Mazel tov!
422
00:20:06,289 --> 00:20:07,999
You know what this means? The clapping?
423
00:20:08,083 --> 00:20:10,168
-"Get him out of here."
-[women laugh]
424
00:20:10,252 --> 00:20:12,504
"Three months of work.
Look what you've done."
425
00:20:12,587 --> 00:20:13,588
[women laugh]
426
00:20:13,672 --> 00:20:15,674
[pleasant music plays]
427
00:20:16,383 --> 00:20:18,260
[Phil] I'm learning
where the dyes come from.
428
00:20:18,343 --> 00:20:21,012
They all come from nature.
There's nothing artificial here.
429
00:20:21,721 --> 00:20:22,889
So, I read about this.
430
00:20:22,973 --> 00:20:26,017
-This is a parasitic insect…
-Mm-hmm.
431
00:20:26,101 --> 00:20:27,560
…that feeds on the cactus.
432
00:20:27,644 --> 00:20:28,728
[Bethsaida] Cochineal.
433
00:20:28,812 --> 00:20:31,523
So they found
when they killed it and mashed it up,
434
00:20:31,606 --> 00:20:33,692
they got that beautiful color.
435
00:20:34,567 --> 00:20:37,237
And, by the way,
this is a very hands-on demonstration.
436
00:20:37,821 --> 00:20:39,864
[Bethsaida] Okay, she's showing you, um,
437
00:20:40,490 --> 00:20:43,785
the-- the colors that we can get
using the fresh cochineal.
438
00:20:44,369 --> 00:20:46,830
Oh, and a little lime,
and I've got another color.
439
00:20:47,455 --> 00:20:50,667
[in Spanish] And now
we're going to use a bit of ash…
440
00:20:50,750 --> 00:20:52,419
-[Bethsaida in English] Ash.
-[Phil] Purple!
441
00:20:52,502 --> 00:20:56,548
-[Pastora in Spanish] We'll see it change.
-[Phil in English] Oh, I like it. Wow.
442
00:20:56,631 --> 00:20:57,924
[Bethsaida chuckles]
443
00:20:58,008 --> 00:21:00,510
[Phil] It's half-science,
half-magic to me.
444
00:21:00,593 --> 00:21:01,428
[Bethsaida] Sí.
445
00:21:01,511 --> 00:21:03,513
[intriguing music playing]
446
00:21:04,139 --> 00:21:06,766
[Phil] Everything is so colorful
that I see in Oaxaca.
447
00:21:06,850 --> 00:21:09,227
I see it in the painting of the buildings.
448
00:21:09,311 --> 00:21:11,771
-Sí.
-I see it in the way people dress.
449
00:21:11,855 --> 00:21:14,816
I see it in your work,
in your beautiful art.
450
00:21:14,899 --> 00:21:17,902
Why is color so important to the culture?
451
00:21:17,986 --> 00:21:23,033
[in Spanish] It is our life,
it is our environment, it is our nature.
452
00:21:23,116 --> 00:21:26,536
The colors are joy,
the colors are happiness,
453
00:21:26,619 --> 00:21:29,497
the colors are love, the colors are life.
454
00:21:29,581 --> 00:21:33,960
The birds, the flowers,
our whole environment, the sun,
455
00:21:34,044 --> 00:21:35,420
everything is color.
456
00:21:36,338 --> 00:21:38,173
-[kisses]
-[Bethsaida] Gracias.
457
00:21:38,256 --> 00:21:40,800
-Gracias.
-[Bethsaida in English] That's right. Mm.
458
00:21:44,137 --> 00:21:46,139
[pleasant trumpet music playing]
459
00:21:51,061 --> 00:21:53,271
[indistinct conversations]
460
00:22:10,497 --> 00:22:12,374
[man 1] Oh! That's the string cheese.
461
00:22:12,457 --> 00:22:13,291
[man 2 chuckles]
462
00:22:13,375 --> 00:22:14,417
[music fades]
463
00:22:14,501 --> 00:22:16,086
[birds chirping]
464
00:22:18,505 --> 00:22:20,507
[dreamy music playing]
465
00:22:23,385 --> 00:22:26,429
[Phil's voice] I meet a lot of fixers
doing this in the different countries.
466
00:22:26,513 --> 00:22:28,973
One of my favorites is Alex Roa.
467
00:22:29,057 --> 00:22:31,976
You might remember him
from our Mexico City episode.
468
00:22:32,060 --> 00:22:34,896
We had a very early breakfast
one morning at La Fonda.
469
00:22:34,979 --> 00:22:37,732
-And he's here with us in Oaxaca too.
-Go through the window.
470
00:22:38,316 --> 00:22:39,984
He has a new find for me.
471
00:22:40,068 --> 00:22:42,946
It's a sushi bar in Oaxaca.
472
00:22:43,613 --> 00:22:47,450
A combo of Japanese and Mexican culture.
473
00:22:47,534 --> 00:22:48,660
It's called Crudo.
474
00:22:48,743 --> 00:22:52,414
Chef Ricardo Ariano is our Oaxacan sensei.
475
00:22:52,497 --> 00:22:54,666
-We're going to use Japanese technique.
-Yes.
476
00:22:54,749 --> 00:22:56,584
Maybe don't look like
traditional Oaxacan food,
477
00:22:56,668 --> 00:23:00,463
but I'm sure with every bite you get
the Oaxacan flavor is really present.
478
00:23:00,547 --> 00:23:02,799
[mellow music plays]
479
00:23:02,882 --> 00:23:05,260
-Let's just start with something fresh.
-[Phil] Yes.
480
00:23:05,343 --> 00:23:07,387
So, basically, this is a clam.
481
00:23:07,470 --> 00:23:09,931
-Ah!
-We marinate the clam in tepache.
482
00:23:10,014 --> 00:23:12,225
-Yeah.
-Tepache means pineapple fermented drink
483
00:23:12,308 --> 00:23:14,727
that's really popular
in Mexico and Oaxaca.
484
00:23:14,811 --> 00:23:17,522
My recommendation here,
looking for the clam with the chopsticks,
485
00:23:17,605 --> 00:23:18,898
and when you finish with it,
486
00:23:18,982 --> 00:23:21,568
-drink the tepache like shot.
-Sounds like a very good idea.
487
00:23:21,651 --> 00:23:22,861
[Ricardo] Enjoy, guys.
488
00:23:22,944 --> 00:23:24,779
Oh, I found the big one. You too.
489
00:23:24,863 --> 00:23:25,697
Yeah.
490
00:23:28,283 --> 00:23:30,160
That's the freshest clam ever.
491
00:23:30,243 --> 00:23:31,286
Try the tepache.
492
00:23:34,414 --> 00:23:37,500
Wow. It's so smart to start with this,
because it wakes you up.
493
00:23:37,584 --> 00:23:38,418
Mm-hmm.
494
00:23:39,210 --> 00:23:43,047
Here's another wake-me-up,
sake actually made here in Mexico.
495
00:23:45,008 --> 00:23:48,636
Thank you, Chef.
Now, I feel like I'm in Tokyo in Oaxaca.
496
00:23:51,639 --> 00:23:53,057
[Ricardo] So this is tuna.
497
00:23:54,309 --> 00:23:57,645
The lard paste on the side,
that's grasshoppers with chili pasilla.
498
00:23:58,313 --> 00:24:00,773
We have a soy sauce that's black beans.
499
00:24:01,441 --> 00:24:03,776
My recommendation here, guys,
eat one of the sliced fish,
500
00:24:03,860 --> 00:24:06,404
and then drink the soy sauce,
don't dip the fish in soy sauce.
501
00:24:06,488 --> 00:24:07,989
-Drink the soy sauce?
-Exactly.
502
00:24:08,072 --> 00:24:09,115
[whooshing]
503
00:24:09,199 --> 00:24:11,576
-[Ricardo] Mm-hmm.
-He's got a flamethrower.
504
00:24:12,494 --> 00:24:13,328
This is crazy.
505
00:24:14,537 --> 00:24:16,206
Food explodes in your mouth.
506
00:24:16,831 --> 00:24:18,082
Yeah. Yeah.
507
00:24:20,877 --> 00:24:23,671
It's like a very subtle soy sauce.
That's what it tastes like.
508
00:24:23,755 --> 00:24:25,423
[exciting drum beat playing]
509
00:24:25,507 --> 00:24:26,716
Here comes more trouble.
510
00:24:27,425 --> 00:24:28,927
Wow. Look at that skill.
511
00:24:32,180 --> 00:24:34,641
This is a sea bass, but this is the belly.
512
00:24:34,724 --> 00:24:36,017
[Phil] Look at that. Oh man!
513
00:24:36,100 --> 00:24:38,978
-He's making a roll.
-[Alex] It's not a roll, it's a taco.
514
00:24:39,729 --> 00:24:42,732
We marinate the belly
in one adobo we normally use
515
00:24:42,815 --> 00:24:45,568
in the pork meat here in Oaxaca,
this really popular flavor.
516
00:24:46,486 --> 00:24:49,155
We're going to find
purslane, avocado, and cactus.
517
00:24:50,031 --> 00:24:51,824
-[Phil chuckling]
-There you go.
518
00:24:55,453 --> 00:25:00,250
It really is a perfect blend
of the two cultures.
519
00:25:00,333 --> 00:25:01,376
Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm.
520
00:25:01,459 --> 00:25:03,127
[pleasant traditional music playing]
521
00:25:04,379 --> 00:25:07,257
Oaxacan people don't really like raw food.
522
00:25:07,340 --> 00:25:09,509
-[Phil] Okay.
-They are not so used to raw food,
523
00:25:10,009 --> 00:25:13,012
so this is kind of an experiment,
but at the same time,
524
00:25:13,096 --> 00:25:16,432
it's a great way to introduce people,
Oaxacan people,
525
00:25:16,516 --> 00:25:19,936
by mixing their flavors
with the traditional Japanese nigiri.
526
00:25:20,019 --> 00:25:20,853
[Phil] Yes.
527
00:25:21,437 --> 00:25:24,399
I always say, if you can open a mouth,
you can open a mind.
528
00:25:24,482 --> 00:25:25,441
[laughs] Exactly.
529
00:25:27,610 --> 00:25:28,820
Mm!
530
00:25:28,903 --> 00:25:30,071
Mm. Mm-hmm.
531
00:25:30,154 --> 00:25:31,364
[grunting]
532
00:25:31,447 --> 00:25:32,949
-[grunts]
-[chuckles]
533
00:25:33,032 --> 00:25:35,118
[mellow music playing]
534
00:25:36,536 --> 00:25:37,912
[crowd chants]
535
00:25:37,996 --> 00:25:40,248
[Phil] One of my dear friends
from home, Jimmi Simpson,
536
00:25:40,331 --> 00:25:41,708
you know him from Westworld,
537
00:25:41,791 --> 00:25:44,127
you know him from
It's Always Sunny in Philadelphia.
538
00:25:44,210 --> 00:25:47,088
I love this guy.
He's also in Oaxaca this week.
539
00:25:47,171 --> 00:25:49,507
I'm taking him to Sabina Sabe.
540
00:25:50,425 --> 00:25:51,509
[Jimmi] Marcelino!
541
00:25:51,593 --> 00:25:53,344
I'm Phil. This is my friend Jimmi.
542
00:25:53,428 --> 00:25:56,180
[in Spanish] Jimmi!
Nice to meet you. Marcelino.
543
00:25:56,264 --> 00:25:58,683
[in English] Marcelino,
we're so happy to be here.
544
00:25:58,766 --> 00:26:00,768
-Thanks for coming, actually.
-This is very exciting.
545
00:26:00,852 --> 00:26:03,021
-[giggles]
-Welcome to Sabina Sabe, okay?
546
00:26:03,104 --> 00:26:05,690
I guess you guys,
maybe you want a-- a drink, maybe?
547
00:26:05,773 --> 00:26:06,858
[Phil] Yes.
548
00:26:07,609 --> 00:26:10,820
Jimmi, while we're waiting
for Marcelino to make his drink,
549
00:26:10,903 --> 00:26:14,866
could you please tell me, uh,
what Westworld is about?
550
00:26:15,450 --> 00:26:17,243
-Yeah.
-'Cause I couldn't figure it out.
551
00:26:17,327 --> 00:26:21,331
I tried watching a lot of it,
and you're phenomenal in it.
552
00:26:21,414 --> 00:26:23,499
-Go on. Continue.
-I…
553
00:26:23,583 --> 00:26:25,668
I swear I didn't understand
what was going on.
554
00:26:25,752 --> 00:26:27,962
Um, I-- Do you know what was going on?
555
00:26:28,963 --> 00:26:30,089
-I have no clue.
-[laughs]
556
00:26:30,173 --> 00:26:32,759
-They gave me words to say…
-I was hoping you'd say that.
557
00:26:32,842 --> 00:26:34,010
…and so I just said them.
558
00:26:34,093 --> 00:26:35,720
[grandiose salsa music plays]
559
00:26:35,803 --> 00:26:38,723
[Phil] Marcelino, on the other hand,
knows exactly what he's doing.
560
00:26:39,223 --> 00:26:43,394
Presenting the Gavilán Reyes,
a refreshing grapefruit cocktail
561
00:26:43,478 --> 00:26:45,980
mixed with a dried poblano chili liqueur.
562
00:26:47,440 --> 00:26:48,358
[Marcelino] Salud.
563
00:26:51,819 --> 00:26:52,654
Oh, yes.
564
00:26:52,737 --> 00:26:55,573
-Come on. Marcelino!
-[Marcelino] Bueno.
565
00:26:55,657 --> 00:26:57,241
-Goodness gracious.
-[laughs]
566
00:26:57,325 --> 00:26:58,451
That's good.
567
00:26:58,534 --> 00:27:01,204
-It's like a little spicy Paloma, right?
-Oh…
568
00:27:01,287 --> 00:27:02,372
-Yes.
-Wow, that's beautiful.
569
00:27:02,455 --> 00:27:04,916
I mean, Paloma and Gavilán,
they are like little cousins.
570
00:27:04,999 --> 00:27:07,001
-Little cousins?
-Oh, yeah. There's layering.
571
00:27:07,085 --> 00:27:08,002
Jimmi, here we go.
572
00:27:08,628 --> 00:27:11,172
-These are Oaxacan treats, yes?
-Yes.
573
00:27:11,255 --> 00:27:13,383
Gracias. All right, you know what that is?
574
00:27:15,843 --> 00:27:18,096
They're dried crickets.
I'll do it if you do it.
575
00:27:18,179 --> 00:27:19,514
[Jimmi] Of course I'll do it.
576
00:27:20,014 --> 00:27:20,848
Here you go.
577
00:27:20,932 --> 00:27:21,891
Are you ready?
578
00:27:21,974 --> 00:27:25,311
-'Cause I don't know if I am!
-[chuckles] You're gonna do it.
579
00:27:25,395 --> 00:27:28,439
Some of mine fell off, but I'm being fair
and I'm putting them back on.
580
00:27:31,526 --> 00:27:32,402
And it's delicious.
581
00:27:32,485 --> 00:27:34,112
-It is delicious. Right?
-Mm-hmm.
582
00:27:34,195 --> 00:27:37,031
So, this is something
I have never done before, have you?
583
00:27:37,115 --> 00:27:40,868
-No. I was sure this was old hat for you.
-I've done, like, the-- the crushed ants.
584
00:27:40,952 --> 00:27:42,537
-What is that?
-All right.
585
00:27:42,620 --> 00:27:44,330
-Chicatanas.
-Chicatanas.
586
00:27:44,872 --> 00:27:47,208
And that's--
Look, he's doubling up on it. I do it too.
587
00:27:47,291 --> 00:27:48,793
-I'm stacking it.
-[Marcelino chuckles]
588
00:27:49,293 --> 00:27:51,504
It is crickets?
It's not full-blown grasshoppers?
589
00:27:51,587 --> 00:27:55,633
Yeah, more or less. I mean,
there is a… different size, right?
590
00:27:55,717 --> 00:27:58,344
-Do you have the big grasshoppers?
-Uh, let me see. Let me ask.
591
00:27:58,428 --> 00:28:00,555
-No, I don't want them, I'm just asking.
-Shh.
592
00:28:00,638 --> 00:28:02,306
-Calm down, Phil.
-[Marcelino laughs]
593
00:28:03,141 --> 00:28:04,058
[crunches]
594
00:28:04,142 --> 00:28:07,645
So you've been here 24 hours, right?
What do you think so far?
595
00:28:07,729 --> 00:28:08,563
I'm stunned.
596
00:28:08,646 --> 00:28:10,773
It's one of my favorite cities
I've ever been to.
597
00:28:10,857 --> 00:28:13,359
It's perfect. It's beautiful.
Everyone's so kind.
598
00:28:13,443 --> 00:28:15,069
[Phil] How long have you been here?
599
00:28:15,153 --> 00:28:17,238
-For six years.
-[Jimmi] Oh, look at the color.
600
00:28:17,321 --> 00:28:18,489
It's almost like blood.
601
00:28:18,573 --> 00:28:20,324
And where did you study bartending?
602
00:28:21,242 --> 00:28:24,370
-Just in the life. [laughing]
-The school of life, Phil.
603
00:28:24,454 --> 00:28:25,413
The school of life.
604
00:28:26,414 --> 00:28:28,750
-Wait. I want to shake a little, okay?
-Yeah, shake a little.
605
00:28:28,833 --> 00:28:30,835
-[Jimmi] I'm doing this.
-I'll do it too.
606
00:28:30,918 --> 00:28:31,794
[ice rattling]
607
00:28:31,878 --> 00:28:33,546
[festive music playing]
608
00:28:33,629 --> 00:28:34,589
[Richard laughs]
609
00:28:36,674 --> 00:28:37,759
[Phil] Oh.
610
00:28:37,842 --> 00:28:39,218
[Marcelino laughs]
611
00:28:39,302 --> 00:28:40,470
[mariachi music plays]
612
00:28:40,553 --> 00:28:41,721
[Phil] Let's not get killed.
613
00:28:41,804 --> 00:28:43,890
[Jimmi] I want to thank you so much.
You saved my life.
614
00:28:43,973 --> 00:28:45,391
[both chuckle]
615
00:28:45,475 --> 00:28:48,394
[Phil] Those cocktails were delicious.
Those cocktails were beautiful.
616
00:28:48,478 --> 00:28:50,438
Those cocktails made us hungry.
617
00:28:50,521 --> 00:28:52,315
[upbeat music playing over stereo]
618
00:28:52,398 --> 00:28:54,817
Wow! We're gonna taco it up.
619
00:28:55,651 --> 00:29:00,948
[Phil] Lechoncito de Oro.
The specialty is the roast suckling pig.
620
00:29:01,783 --> 00:29:02,742
[oinks]
621
00:29:02,825 --> 00:29:04,243
-Oh, that's fun.
-[chuckles]
622
00:29:04,786 --> 00:29:07,246
[Jimmi] That's the noise I make
when I eat something delicious.
623
00:29:07,330 --> 00:29:09,999
-[server in Spanish] Nice to meet you.
-[in Spanish] Nice to meet you.
624
00:29:10,082 --> 00:29:11,083
Uh, two.
625
00:29:11,918 --> 00:29:14,837
[reading Spanish]
626
00:29:15,838 --> 00:29:17,256
[speaking Spanish]
627
00:29:18,049 --> 00:29:20,009
[in English] You know
I was a model for the poster?
628
00:29:20,092 --> 00:29:22,428
How dare you
talk about yourself in such a way.
629
00:29:24,847 --> 00:29:27,475
[slow salsa music playing]
630
00:29:28,726 --> 00:29:30,436
Here you go. Chicharron.
631
00:29:30,937 --> 00:29:33,189
-[Jimmi] Oh, this is hot and fresh.
-Oh, it's super hot.
632
00:29:36,859 --> 00:29:38,569
[Jimmi] Mm.
633
00:29:38,653 --> 00:29:39,487
Mm!
634
00:29:40,112 --> 00:29:41,989
-[Phil] What do you think?
-Delicious.
635
00:29:42,532 --> 00:29:44,867
-There's heat, but lots of flavor in that.
-Yeah.
636
00:29:44,951 --> 00:29:48,996
And the chicharron,
it really kind of adds a fourth dimension.
637
00:29:49,831 --> 00:29:50,832
-A little crispy.
-Mm-hmm.
638
00:29:50,915 --> 00:29:52,708
-I love it.
-Wow!
639
00:29:54,418 --> 00:29:56,629
[Phil] What is 15 pesos?
What does that cost?
640
00:29:57,255 --> 00:29:59,131
-Like 75 cents.
-Seventy-five cents.
641
00:29:59,215 --> 00:30:01,968
-The best 75 cents I ever spent.
-[chuckles] Yeah. Amen.
642
00:30:02,927 --> 00:30:04,971
Mm. It's just porky goodness.
643
00:30:08,307 --> 00:30:09,141
You.
644
00:30:09,851 --> 00:30:10,685
You.
645
00:30:13,729 --> 00:30:15,731
[dramatic western music playing]
646
00:30:23,906 --> 00:30:28,160
Tequila's one of my favorite drinks,
but the more time I spend in Mexico,
647
00:30:28,244 --> 00:30:30,746
the more I learn about mescal,
648
00:30:30,830 --> 00:30:32,498
the original favorite drink here.
649
00:30:32,582 --> 00:30:34,750
And since we're in the land of mescal,
650
00:30:35,501 --> 00:30:38,421
we're gonna go to a distillery today
called Montelobos.
651
00:30:40,006 --> 00:30:42,216
How old is mescal production?
652
00:30:42,800 --> 00:30:44,135
In pre-Hispanic cultures,
653
00:30:44,218 --> 00:30:48,264
they have been consuming
alcoholic beverages since long time ago.
654
00:30:48,347 --> 00:30:51,267
-There's always been a need for alcohol.
-Yeah. [chuckles]
655
00:30:51,893 --> 00:30:53,978
[Phil] Guiding me through
the mescal production process
656
00:30:54,061 --> 00:30:55,271
is my new friend Diego.
657
00:30:55,897 --> 00:30:58,190
He's telling me that it all starts here,
658
00:30:58,274 --> 00:30:59,191
the agave plant.
659
00:31:00,109 --> 00:31:03,571
You gotta let them grow six years
so they get big and, I guess, juicy,
660
00:31:03,654 --> 00:31:06,741
and then they hack them with machetes.
661
00:31:06,824 --> 00:31:09,118
They hack the leaves off.
They gotta dig 'em up.
662
00:31:09,201 --> 00:31:10,870
I mean, this is labor-intensive.
663
00:31:11,954 --> 00:31:14,332
Want to see the opposite
of labor-intensive?
664
00:31:14,916 --> 00:31:17,168
Here I am posing for my Instagram.
665
00:31:20,087 --> 00:31:20,922
[music fades]
666
00:31:21,005 --> 00:31:22,048
Okay, where were we?
667
00:31:23,424 --> 00:31:27,136
I'm no expert, Diego, but I'd say this
is the beginning of the roasting process.
668
00:31:27,219 --> 00:31:29,889
Yes, we are, let's say,
preheating the oven, right?
669
00:31:29,972 --> 00:31:32,433
-Yeah.
-So we're just setting it warm enough
670
00:31:32,516 --> 00:31:34,101
for it to-- to roast the agave.
671
00:31:34,685 --> 00:31:38,314
You see this pile of the hearts of agave,
672
00:31:38,397 --> 00:31:41,317
called the piña,
because they kind of look like pineapples.
673
00:31:42,068 --> 00:31:46,530
You're heating the rocks,
so that when you pile in all the piñas…
674
00:31:46,614 --> 00:31:47,448
[Diego] Mm-hmm.
675
00:31:47,531 --> 00:31:51,410
…and then cover it with dirt,
they will slow roast.
676
00:31:51,494 --> 00:31:55,498
Yeah. What we want to achieve here
is convert the-- the sugars
677
00:31:55,581 --> 00:31:57,041
that will be able to be fermented.
678
00:31:57,124 --> 00:31:59,168
[dramatic mariachi music plays]
679
00:31:59,251 --> 00:32:02,630
[Phil] They asked me to help
throw these piñas into the fire pit,
680
00:32:02,713 --> 00:32:05,841
and so, you know,
I'm-- I'm-- I'm very, uh, muscular,
681
00:32:05,925 --> 00:32:07,218
and so I could do this.
682
00:32:09,512 --> 00:32:10,388
[grunts]
683
00:32:11,472 --> 00:32:15,810
Oh, the other thing is you have to,
ideally, get the white part facedown.
684
00:32:15,893 --> 00:32:19,438
So, you-- you--
It takes some skill, which…
685
00:32:23,025 --> 00:32:23,859
I don't have.
686
00:32:27,780 --> 00:32:28,698
[man chuckles]
687
00:32:28,781 --> 00:32:31,617
This is like throwing, uh, bowling balls…
688
00:32:31,701 --> 00:32:32,910
[chuckling] …into a pit.
689
00:32:35,454 --> 00:32:36,497
[man] Oh!
690
00:32:36,998 --> 00:32:38,499
-[Diego chuckles]
-[man laughs]
691
00:32:38,582 --> 00:32:41,002
[dramatic western music continues]
692
00:32:42,878 --> 00:32:43,921
I need a do-over.
693
00:32:47,174 --> 00:32:51,804
[music building]
694
00:32:55,391 --> 00:32:57,059
[upbeat music playing]
695
00:32:57,143 --> 00:32:58,102
[Diego] There you go.
696
00:32:58,978 --> 00:33:01,230
So that's the way the agave gets roasted.
697
00:33:02,189 --> 00:33:04,025
-[Phil] On to the next step.
-Perfect.
698
00:33:05,818 --> 00:33:08,904
[Phil] The next part,
after about five or six days of roasting,
699
00:33:08,988 --> 00:33:09,905
is the mashing.
700
00:33:10,573 --> 00:33:12,825
Diego's colleague Juan
shows me how it's done.
701
00:33:13,617 --> 00:33:16,203
There's a lot of cutting-edge technology
involved here.
702
00:33:19,498 --> 00:33:21,500
-[Juan] We have here the cooked agave…
-[Phil] Yes.
703
00:33:21,584 --> 00:33:24,754
[Juan] …and then, uh,
Rambo mashing the produce.
704
00:33:25,254 --> 00:33:26,672
-[Phil] Rambo.
-[Juan] Yeah.
705
00:33:26,756 --> 00:33:30,217
-[Phil] He's in charge… of the mashing.
-[Juan] Rambo la mula is in charge. Yeah.
706
00:33:31,177 --> 00:33:33,971
If he needs a break,
I could-- I could spin the wheel.
707
00:33:34,055 --> 00:33:35,139
[Juan chuckles]
708
00:33:35,222 --> 00:33:38,768
He only works two hours per day,
actually, and the rest of the day,
709
00:33:38,851 --> 00:33:42,980
he's eating cooked agave
and relax here out on the palenque.
710
00:33:43,064 --> 00:33:44,440
[Juan clicking tongue]
711
00:33:44,523 --> 00:33:50,571
After mashing, we put all that flavors
and that juice in the fermentation here.
712
00:33:51,530 --> 00:33:52,573
[Phil] Ah.
713
00:33:52,656 --> 00:33:54,408
-Yeah.
-So that means it's fermenting
714
00:33:54,492 --> 00:33:55,534
when you see the bubbles.
715
00:33:55,618 --> 00:33:57,453
Yeah. It's working right now, actually.
716
00:33:57,536 --> 00:34:00,998
-[Phil] It's working. It's alive.
-[Juan] It's live. It's alive, yeah.
717
00:34:01,665 --> 00:34:02,958
[gentle guitar music playing]
718
00:34:03,042 --> 00:34:04,585
Okay, first distillation.
719
00:34:04,668 --> 00:34:06,253
-You want to taste it?
-Yes.
720
00:34:07,296 --> 00:34:10,341
[Phil's voice] The first distillation
yields something they call Ordinario,
721
00:34:11,217 --> 00:34:13,803
which is not extraordinary-o.
722
00:34:13,886 --> 00:34:14,970
What we can say?
723
00:34:15,054 --> 00:34:16,388
I can say it's not ready yet.
724
00:34:16,472 --> 00:34:18,057
-Yeah, you're right.
-[laughs] Am I right?
725
00:34:19,183 --> 00:34:20,851
So they distill the liquid again.
726
00:34:21,435 --> 00:34:24,355
All this gargantuan effort into…
727
00:34:25,064 --> 00:34:27,233
[chuckling] …drip, drip, drip, drip.
728
00:34:28,651 --> 00:34:31,278
"How'd it go today, honey?"
"Good. We got this much."
729
00:34:31,362 --> 00:34:32,822
[chuckles]
730
00:34:36,242 --> 00:34:38,160
-Powerful.
-Okay. Yeah.
731
00:34:38,244 --> 00:34:39,829
-That's a lot of alcohol.
-Yeah.
732
00:34:40,412 --> 00:34:43,999
[Phil] At this point, they blend
the various portions of its distillation
733
00:34:44,083 --> 00:34:46,127
to yield the desired taste.
734
00:34:46,210 --> 00:34:48,212
[dramatic western music playing]
735
00:34:49,130 --> 00:34:50,131
Here we go. By the way…
736
00:34:50,214 --> 00:34:51,048
-Cheers.
-Salud.
737
00:34:51,132 --> 00:34:52,925
-…thanks for having me.
-You're welcome.
738
00:34:53,008 --> 00:34:56,095
I learned so much today.
This couldn't be a more beautiful setting.
739
00:34:56,178 --> 00:34:57,263
I mean, look at this.
740
00:34:57,930 --> 00:34:59,890
Kind of heaven. You like being here.
741
00:34:59,974 --> 00:35:02,184
Yeah. It's my favorite place in the Earth.
742
00:35:02,268 --> 00:35:04,895
Yeah. It's before heaven,
'cause heaven will be here.
743
00:35:04,979 --> 00:35:06,355
[all chuckling]
744
00:35:06,438 --> 00:35:07,314
Pre-heaven.
745
00:35:08,190 --> 00:35:11,735
And how's the finished product?
It's very nice.
746
00:35:13,195 --> 00:35:14,071
I love that.
747
00:35:15,573 --> 00:35:17,116
-I'll be taking this.
-For you.
748
00:35:17,199 --> 00:35:18,868
-I'll take it with me.
-[Juan] Let's go.
749
00:35:18,951 --> 00:35:20,411
[Phil] Let's walk, shall we?
750
00:35:21,537 --> 00:35:23,414
And enjoy the beauty of the agave.
751
00:35:24,999 --> 00:35:25,875
Ow.
752
00:35:26,792 --> 00:35:28,335
-I've been stabbed.
-[Diego] You okay?
753
00:35:28,419 --> 00:35:29,253
[Phil] Yeah.
754
00:35:33,007 --> 00:35:35,009
[jaunty guitar music playing]
755
00:35:36,594 --> 00:35:38,345
[Phil] My evening is off
to a wonderful start
756
00:35:38,429 --> 00:35:40,264
as I head back into Oaxaca City.
757
00:35:40,848 --> 00:35:43,517
This next place is one
I'm really curious about.
758
00:35:44,185 --> 00:35:46,729
This is Levadura De Olla.
759
00:35:47,563 --> 00:35:48,772
It's a regular restaurant,
760
00:35:48,856 --> 00:35:51,692
but there's a special room
called the Smoke Kitchen.
761
00:35:52,359 --> 00:35:53,444
Come with me.
762
00:35:54,111 --> 00:35:55,571
[music intensifies]
763
00:35:57,948 --> 00:36:00,618
My dining companion tonight
is Ana Quintero.
764
00:36:01,160 --> 00:36:03,746
She's actually a cultural gastronomist.
765
00:36:03,829 --> 00:36:05,206
She's also a food tour guide.
766
00:36:05,289 --> 00:36:08,751
And this is the brilliant chef,
Thalia Barrios.
767
00:36:09,251 --> 00:36:12,755
She's replicating the experience
of her kitchen from her small pueblo.
768
00:36:13,422 --> 00:36:17,051
[Ana] When you're in this kitchen,
in their town, it's everything, fast.
769
00:36:17,134 --> 00:36:18,636
-[Phil] Good.
-We have the tamales here
770
00:36:18,719 --> 00:36:21,347
that we're gonna start eating,
they're gonna start cooking,
771
00:36:21,430 --> 00:36:23,432
and they're gonna start doing the salsa.
772
00:36:23,933 --> 00:36:25,809
[Phil] And are you from Oaxaca?
773
00:36:26,644 --> 00:36:31,440
I'm not. I'm from Mexico City,
but Oaxaca is just amazing. It's…
774
00:36:31,982 --> 00:36:35,903
Like, you as a Mexican,
are really proud of Mexican culture,
775
00:36:35,986 --> 00:36:39,406
and you come to Oaxaca, and you realize
that everything that you're proud of
776
00:36:39,490 --> 00:36:40,783
comes from here. [chuckles]
777
00:36:40,866 --> 00:36:42,243
[gentle music playing]
778
00:36:42,326 --> 00:36:46,205
[Phil] First up… Oh! Beautiful tamales.
779
00:36:46,288 --> 00:36:48,624
This one's wrapped in fresh banana leaves.
780
00:36:49,166 --> 00:36:51,293
-Tamales are gifts, right?
-[chuckles]
781
00:36:51,377 --> 00:36:53,128
-They are, no?
-They even come wrapped.
782
00:36:53,212 --> 00:36:54,171
[Ana] They're wrapped.
783
00:36:54,255 --> 00:36:57,341
So, you're gonna see
different tamales each season.
784
00:36:57,424 --> 00:36:59,635
Yeah, and every person
makes it different, right?
785
00:36:59,718 --> 00:37:03,180
-[Ana] This is a tamale from pumpkin.
-[Phil] Oh… Really?
786
00:37:03,847 --> 00:37:05,724
And it also has shrimps on it.
787
00:37:05,808 --> 00:37:07,893
-Shrimps inside, too? Wow.
-Yeah.
788
00:37:07,977 --> 00:37:09,395
[Ana] Mm-hmm. Mm!
789
00:37:09,937 --> 00:37:10,771
Wow.
790
00:37:11,730 --> 00:37:12,940
[Phil] Wow!
791
00:37:13,023 --> 00:37:15,192
-Oh, and it's spicy too.
-Yeah?
792
00:37:15,276 --> 00:37:17,069
Yeah, this is fantastic.
793
00:37:17,152 --> 00:37:19,947
Oh, my God, this gorgeous tamale,
which was kind of loose
794
00:37:20,030 --> 00:37:25,119
with-- with these crunchy,
delicious, spicy shrimp heads in it.
795
00:37:25,744 --> 00:37:28,163
-[Thalia speaks Spanish]
-Oh, come on! That's beautiful.
796
00:37:28,247 --> 00:37:31,125
This dish is the dish that I always
797
00:37:31,208 --> 00:37:33,627
-ask for whenever I come here.
-When tomatoes are in season,
798
00:37:33,711 --> 00:37:34,753
a festival of tomatoes.
799
00:37:34,837 --> 00:37:37,673
[Ana] Yeah, you can see, like,
all the different types of tomato.
800
00:37:37,756 --> 00:37:39,675
Each one tastes different.
801
00:37:39,758 --> 00:37:41,719
-[Phil] So we gotta have one of each.
-Yeah.
802
00:37:42,553 --> 00:37:43,637
Mm!
803
00:37:43,721 --> 00:37:44,555
Ooh-hoo!
804
00:37:45,472 --> 00:37:49,810
That one, it looks like
and almost tastes like a apricot.
805
00:37:49,893 --> 00:37:51,186
-Yeah. [chuckles]
-Right?
806
00:37:51,270 --> 00:37:52,396
It does. Mm-hmm.
807
00:37:52,479 --> 00:37:54,231
[Phil] There's one here, one here.
808
00:37:54,315 --> 00:37:56,317
-And then here.
-One here. Ooh-hoo!
809
00:37:57,026 --> 00:37:58,235
Did you have that one?
810
00:37:58,819 --> 00:38:01,113
-It's ama-- You can have it.
-I want you to-- No, I had two.
811
00:38:01,196 --> 00:38:02,489
I-- I live here, so…
812
00:38:02,573 --> 00:38:05,576
[laughing] I think you should have it.
813
00:38:05,659 --> 00:38:06,744
[chuckles]
814
00:38:07,494 --> 00:38:08,746
[Richard chuckles]
815
00:38:10,914 --> 00:38:13,917
-Chef. Magnífico.
-[chuckles]
816
00:38:14,710 --> 00:38:15,627
[Ana] Now, the soup.
817
00:38:16,795 --> 00:38:20,841
[in Spanish] The mushroom soup
commands a lot of respect.
818
00:38:20,924 --> 00:38:26,597
Because if you have a lot of faith in it,
if you have an upset stomach,
819
00:38:26,680 --> 00:38:29,808
if you have depression,
if you're feeling down,
820
00:38:29,892 --> 00:38:33,729
then this soup is very healing,
it has poleo and mushrooms.
821
00:38:33,812 --> 00:38:35,647
[in English] Can I get
a giant size for home?
822
00:38:35,731 --> 00:38:36,565
[laughs]
823
00:38:36,648 --> 00:38:38,442
[Phil] I'll take a little every morning.
824
00:38:40,527 --> 00:38:42,029
Wow, look at that.
825
00:38:42,112 --> 00:38:42,946
Oh, boy.
826
00:38:44,490 --> 00:38:46,825
-Mm! That broth!
-And this-- It has this herb
827
00:38:46,909 --> 00:38:50,037
we call poleo,
and that's the flavor also that it has.
828
00:38:50,120 --> 00:38:52,456
[Phil] This is also
a little minty, this one.
829
00:38:52,539 --> 00:38:55,793
Never had anything like that.
It's like I'm going to school.
830
00:38:55,876 --> 00:38:56,752
[chuckles softly]
831
00:38:56,835 --> 00:38:58,420
Shouldn't every history class
832
00:38:59,296 --> 00:39:01,840
feature the food of the place
that you're studying?
833
00:39:01,924 --> 00:39:02,758
[Ana] They should.
834
00:39:02,841 --> 00:39:07,471
Food tells us a lot about people,
more than we can imagine.
835
00:39:07,554 --> 00:39:11,850
Like all the beliefs that we have,
all the-- the traditions that you have,
836
00:39:11,934 --> 00:39:14,311
-the heritage, your identity…
-Yeah.
837
00:39:14,395 --> 00:39:15,896
…is-- is made out of food.
838
00:39:17,022 --> 00:39:19,358
[Phil] I loved every bite of food
from this brilliant chef,
839
00:39:19,441 --> 00:39:22,569
and then there was one more thing
she thought I'd like to try.
840
00:39:22,653 --> 00:39:24,238
[intriguing music playing]
841
00:39:24,321 --> 00:39:27,699
Before I came, my brother said,
"They're going to give you iguana."
842
00:39:28,409 --> 00:39:30,702
Think I should try it,
or you don't think I should?
843
00:39:30,786 --> 00:39:32,079
I actually haven't tried it.
844
00:39:32,162 --> 00:39:33,205
-Never?
-Never.
845
00:39:33,914 --> 00:39:35,040
I figured, you know,
846
00:39:36,166 --> 00:39:37,793
I should try stuff, right?
847
00:39:37,876 --> 00:39:41,547
That's what I'm always saying to you.
So, I have to, you know, walk the walk.
848
00:39:42,131 --> 00:39:44,091
-You want to try it?
-It's there, actually.
849
00:39:44,174 --> 00:39:45,884
-What do you mean?
-You can see it.
850
00:39:45,968 --> 00:39:48,095
Then, uh, I saw it.
851
00:39:49,721 --> 00:39:51,974
Oh… yes, now I see it.
852
00:39:52,057 --> 00:39:52,975
[Ana laughs]
853
00:39:55,811 --> 00:39:57,312
And I--
854
00:39:57,396 --> 00:40:02,484
My brain, I'm sorry to say,
started for-- looking for ways out.
855
00:40:02,568 --> 00:40:04,486
Does it need to be prepared more than…
856
00:40:04,570 --> 00:40:07,072
-[in Spanish] It could take a while.
-How long?
857
00:40:07,823 --> 00:40:08,699
Like half an hour.
858
00:40:08,782 --> 00:40:10,325
[in English] Okay. Oh, a half hour.
859
00:40:10,409 --> 00:40:13,162
I'm sorry, we can't, because we have to--
it would take a half hour.
860
00:40:13,245 --> 00:40:14,079
[Richard] Sorry.
861
00:40:14,163 --> 00:40:16,457
"Oh, oh, look at the time. I'm so sorry."
862
00:40:16,540 --> 00:40:19,418
[chuckling] "I don't have…"
And that was my way out of it.
863
00:40:19,501 --> 00:40:23,589
So, I-- I chickened out of the iguana,
which probably tasted like chicken.
864
00:40:24,173 --> 00:40:27,176
But then she says,
"Oh, if you're in a rush, how about this?"
865
00:40:27,259 --> 00:40:31,388
And she hands me a bowl of moving
866
00:40:32,389 --> 00:40:35,058
beetles in a bowl.
867
00:40:35,851 --> 00:40:40,105
Now, the last thing I want to do
is offend any culture.
868
00:40:41,398 --> 00:40:44,526
I don't want to hurt anyone's feelings.
869
00:40:44,610 --> 00:40:47,821
The last thing I want to do
is insult anybody.
870
00:40:48,363 --> 00:40:49,865
And what flew out of my mouth
871
00:40:49,948 --> 00:40:53,076
when she handed me this bowl
of living beetles was,
872
00:40:53,160 --> 00:40:55,287
"Oh, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no, no."
873
00:40:55,370 --> 00:40:57,372
[Richard laughs]
874
00:40:58,248 --> 00:40:59,917
[chuckles, speaks Spanish]
875
00:41:00,000 --> 00:41:01,126
[Phil] She understood.
876
00:41:02,252 --> 00:41:04,546
She took pity on me, "the poor gringo."
877
00:41:05,589 --> 00:41:07,257
[Thalia] Sí, gracias.
878
00:41:07,341 --> 00:41:08,592
-[chuckles]
-Gracias.
879
00:41:08,675 --> 00:41:10,427
-Thank you.
-Gracias.
880
00:41:10,511 --> 00:41:11,512
[Thalia chuckles]
881
00:41:11,595 --> 00:41:12,679
Beautiful.
882
00:41:12,763 --> 00:41:14,181
-Ah!
-[chuckles]
883
00:41:18,435 --> 00:41:19,937
[jaunty music playing]
884
00:41:20,020 --> 00:41:21,063
[Phil] Hey, Google.
885
00:41:21,980 --> 00:41:22,940
Video call Ben.
886
00:41:23,607 --> 00:41:24,775
[video call ringing]
887
00:41:24,858 --> 00:41:26,652
-[gasps] Oh!
-[Ben] Hey.
888
00:41:26,735 --> 00:41:28,153
My boy! My boy!
889
00:41:28,237 --> 00:41:29,196
[Ben chuckles]
890
00:41:29,279 --> 00:41:33,367
-Hey, Pa. How you doing?
-[chuckles] Good. Happy to see you.
891
00:41:33,450 --> 00:41:35,619
-You're in your old room.
-I am.
892
00:41:35,702 --> 00:41:37,955
And you've got
Mom's Pilates machine in there.
893
00:41:38,038 --> 00:41:40,040
-You were replaced by that.
-Yeah, so now it's--
894
00:41:40,582 --> 00:41:44,336
Yeah. There's no bed in here anymore.
Just the Pilates machine.
895
00:41:44,419 --> 00:41:45,712
It's a terrible thing.
896
00:41:45,796 --> 00:41:47,548
Look what I have. I'm happy.
897
00:41:47,631 --> 00:41:51,802
I have some of the most delicious,
uh, hot chocolate in the world.
898
00:41:52,511 --> 00:41:54,054
-Ooh.
-Look, they told me
899
00:41:54,137 --> 00:41:57,599
the proper way is to drink it like this,
to cup it in your hands like this,
900
00:41:57,683 --> 00:42:01,186
as if you're giving thanks
to the earth for the chocolate.
901
00:42:01,979 --> 00:42:04,606
How's Oaxaca been?
Have you been having a good time?
902
00:42:04,690 --> 00:42:08,110
Yeah, it's the most beautiful place.
I can't wait to bring you guys here.
903
00:42:08,193 --> 00:42:09,236
I love the…
904
00:42:09,319 --> 00:42:11,363
[smacks lips] …the Oaxacan cheese.
905
00:42:11,446 --> 00:42:13,740
-It's great.
-The… Like, the string cheese.
906
00:42:13,824 --> 00:42:15,284
It's fantastic.
907
00:42:15,367 --> 00:42:18,954
I think we have a shot of it pulling out
for like a mile from my mouth.
908
00:42:19,037 --> 00:42:20,080
Yeah.
909
00:42:20,163 --> 00:42:21,665
[both chuckle]
910
00:42:21,748 --> 00:42:23,834
-Mr. Ben, you know what it's time for?
-Yes.
911
00:42:24,585 --> 00:42:25,794
Do you want a joke?
912
00:42:25,877 --> 00:42:27,546
It's a joke for your grandpa.
913
00:42:28,046 --> 00:42:29,423
-Okay.
-All right.
914
00:42:29,506 --> 00:42:32,259
-I only got one.
-You honor your grandpa. Go ahead.
915
00:42:32,759 --> 00:42:34,928
There's a-- a guy named David,
916
00:42:35,012 --> 00:42:37,973
and he's in a little bit
of a financial pickle,
917
00:42:38,056 --> 00:42:39,349
and he doesn't know what to do.
918
00:42:39,433 --> 00:42:42,894
So, he goes to the temple,
and he prays, and he says,
919
00:42:42,978 --> 00:42:46,898
"God, please,
if I could just win the lottery,
920
00:42:46,982 --> 00:42:48,442
that would fix everything."
921
00:42:48,525 --> 00:42:51,778
And so he goes home, and he turns on
the TV to see the winning numbers,
922
00:42:51,862 --> 00:42:54,072
and it goes and he doesn't win.
923
00:42:54,156 --> 00:42:55,699
And he doesn't know what happened.
924
00:42:55,782 --> 00:43:00,162
He goes back to the temple and he says,
"God, I told you I really needed this."
925
00:43:00,245 --> 00:43:03,457
"This would've fixed everything.
What did I do wrong?"
926
00:43:03,540 --> 00:43:06,335
-And then the skies open.
-[chuckles]
927
00:43:06,418 --> 00:43:08,837
God comes down and speaks to David,
928
00:43:08,920 --> 00:43:13,717
and he says,
"David, please, meet me halfway."
929
00:43:13,800 --> 00:43:15,677
"You gotta buy a lottery ticket."
930
00:43:15,761 --> 00:43:19,181
[Phil and Richard laughing]
931
00:43:19,264 --> 00:43:20,223
Yes!
932
00:43:20,307 --> 00:43:21,308
[Richard laughs]
933
00:43:21,391 --> 00:43:22,559
Yes. A good one.
934
00:43:22,643 --> 00:43:26,104
The spirit of Max
is-- is deep within you, my son.
935
00:43:26,188 --> 00:43:27,648
[Ben chuckles]
936
00:43:27,731 --> 00:43:28,982
Oh, here's the puppy.
937
00:43:29,483 --> 00:43:30,525
Murray's there?
938
00:43:30,609 --> 00:43:32,694
-[Lily] Hey, Dad.
-[Monica] Dad's here!
939
00:43:32,778 --> 00:43:33,820
Hi, Lily.
940
00:43:33,904 --> 00:43:35,989
-[Ben] I gotta figure this out.
-Hi, Monica.
941
00:43:36,073 --> 00:43:37,949
-Look at the puppy!
-See him?
942
00:43:38,033 --> 00:43:39,368
Look at the boy!
943
00:43:40,160 --> 00:43:42,788
He's beside himself. He needs you.
944
00:43:42,871 --> 00:43:44,873
Aw. Look at this.
945
00:43:44,956 --> 00:43:48,043
Who doesn't like this picture
of wholesomeness?
946
00:43:48,585 --> 00:43:50,045
All right, family.
947
00:43:51,088 --> 00:43:53,131
-That was very sweet.
-[Lily] How are you doing?
948
00:43:53,215 --> 00:43:55,258
-Love you. See you soon.
-Where's Richard?
949
00:43:55,342 --> 00:43:57,260
-Why do you care?
-[Monica] Can Richard say hello?
950
00:43:57,344 --> 00:43:59,179
Why does everybody care about--
Why is that--
951
00:43:59,262 --> 00:44:00,847
-There he is!
-Hi, Richard!
952
00:44:00,931 --> 00:44:02,891
-There he is.
-[Monica] Oh, you look so good.
953
00:44:02,974 --> 00:44:04,976
-Uncle Richard…
-[Monica] You look nice too, Philip.
954
00:44:05,060 --> 00:44:08,021
-She says, "You look nice too, Philip."
-[Monica and Richard laugh]
955
00:44:08,105 --> 00:44:10,232
Now, my mother is here as well, in spirit.
956
00:44:10,315 --> 00:44:12,651
[all laughing]
957
00:44:12,734 --> 00:44:14,986
[upbeat music playing]
958
00:44:16,196 --> 00:44:19,324
One more thing to do.
I'd like a reunion dinner, please.
959
00:44:19,408 --> 00:44:22,661
-Guacamole for the table? Yes?
-[Chris] Hey!
960
00:44:22,744 --> 00:44:24,621
[all chuckling]
961
00:44:24,705 --> 00:44:25,956
[Phil giggling] Yeah!
962
00:44:26,039 --> 00:44:29,000
Always enter with food.
It makes everyone happy to see you.
963
00:44:29,084 --> 00:44:30,293
[all chuckle]
964
00:44:30,377 --> 00:44:33,213
[Phil] Joining me are my friends
Jorge and his mother Elvia,
965
00:44:33,296 --> 00:44:36,466
Ana, Bethsaida, Jimmi,
966
00:44:36,550 --> 00:44:40,262
Chris and Leanne,
and my favorite "Oaxacker," Omar.
967
00:44:41,179 --> 00:44:43,056
We're on the rooftop of Casa Oaxaca,
968
00:44:43,140 --> 00:44:45,642
situated right by the church
of Santo Domingo
969
00:44:45,726 --> 00:44:47,352
during a beautiful sunset.
970
00:44:47,853 --> 00:44:48,729
What am I drinking?
971
00:44:48,812 --> 00:44:51,440
It's called Mescalini,
because it's like a martini,
972
00:44:51,523 --> 00:44:53,400
but they make it with mescal.
973
00:44:53,483 --> 00:44:54,860
I think you're gonna hate it.
974
00:44:54,943 --> 00:44:56,528
[Jimmi laughs]
975
00:44:56,611 --> 00:44:58,447
A little toast to my new friends.
976
00:44:58,530 --> 00:45:00,449
-[Bethsaida and Omar] Salud.
-And my old friends.
977
00:45:00,532 --> 00:45:01,700
[Omar and Ana] Salud.
978
00:45:02,743 --> 00:45:04,953
Mm! So you got a new shirt today too.
979
00:45:05,036 --> 00:45:05,996
I sure did.
980
00:45:06,079 --> 00:45:07,539
I'm celebrating my Oaxacans.
981
00:45:07,622 --> 00:45:09,332
Ah, chef! [chuckles]
982
00:45:09,416 --> 00:45:11,168
This is Chef Alejandro Ruiz.
983
00:45:12,127 --> 00:45:15,839
The food looks unbelievable. I can't wait.
You want to tell us what everything is?
984
00:45:15,922 --> 00:45:18,967
Yes, of course.
To me, this is the most representative.
985
00:45:19,050 --> 00:45:23,472
As you know, we've been eating chapulines,
chicatanas and agave worms all our lives.
986
00:45:23,555 --> 00:45:24,598
I am not afraid.
987
00:45:24,681 --> 00:45:27,726
[Ruiz] Blue corn crispy tostada
with the guacamole,
988
00:45:27,809 --> 00:45:29,352
then some avocado and some herbs.
989
00:45:29,436 --> 00:45:31,229
I think if you're going insect…
990
00:45:31,313 --> 00:45:32,314
-Yes.
-…that's how to go.
991
00:45:32,898 --> 00:45:35,901
This one, it is a chile relleno with fish.
992
00:45:35,984 --> 00:45:37,611
-Ah.
-This one has mahi mahi.
993
00:45:37,694 --> 00:45:40,280
And I won't say my mole is the best,
994
00:45:40,363 --> 00:45:43,033
because there are some
other amazing cooks…
995
00:45:43,116 --> 00:45:45,452
-[Phil] There's royalty here.
-…that make traditional mole,
996
00:45:45,535 --> 00:45:49,247
but, uh, I think we have
a decent, uh, recipe of black mole.
997
00:45:49,331 --> 00:45:53,418
-Black mole with turkey and the fish.
-[Phil] Yeah, I love it.
998
00:45:53,502 --> 00:45:55,670
-Please enjoy.
-Chef, everybody. Chef!
999
00:45:55,754 --> 00:45:57,255
-[Leanne] Yay.
-[Bethsaida] Bravo.
1000
00:45:57,339 --> 00:45:59,466
[upbeat music plays]
1001
00:45:59,549 --> 00:46:01,218
You don't get insects every day.
1002
00:46:01,760 --> 00:46:03,136
Here we go.
1003
00:46:03,220 --> 00:46:05,430
[Phil] A tostada filled with bugs,
1004
00:46:05,514 --> 00:46:07,307
which, a few years ago,
1005
00:46:07,390 --> 00:46:10,393
I might have been
a little reticent to, uh, go near.
1006
00:46:10,477 --> 00:46:11,937
It is delicious.
1007
00:46:13,480 --> 00:46:15,732
Yes, yes. I'm growing up, people.
1008
00:46:16,233 --> 00:46:17,400
Thank you, Phil.
1009
00:46:20,403 --> 00:46:22,739
[Phil] My favorite line
in a Preston Sturges movie…
1010
00:46:22,823 --> 00:46:26,409
[chuckling] …is when, uh,
Henry Fonda comes late to a dinner party,
1011
00:46:26,493 --> 00:46:30,163
and he sits next to an old lady,
and he says, uh, "Did I miss anything?"
1012
00:46:30,247 --> 00:46:33,333
And she says, "The fish was a poem."
1013
00:46:34,251 --> 00:46:37,128
That's how I felt
about this fish at Casa Oaxaca.
1014
00:46:38,755 --> 00:46:39,589
[Phil] Mm.
1015
00:46:39,673 --> 00:46:41,675
-[Omar] There's more mole here.
-Really?
1016
00:46:43,802 --> 00:46:46,096
Hey, Chris, what are you doing
with the guacamole there?
1017
00:46:46,179 --> 00:46:47,430
I'm eating it.
1018
00:46:47,514 --> 00:46:49,599
[both laughing]
1019
00:46:51,726 --> 00:46:56,439
I'm happy that you got to share
a little bit of what-- what's in Oaxaca,
1020
00:46:56,523 --> 00:46:59,776
and I hope that you can make it back
to keep on exploring it.
1021
00:46:59,860 --> 00:47:02,737
Are you kidding?
Try to keep me away. To coming back.
1022
00:47:02,821 --> 00:47:06,241
-[Omar] To stay in love!
-Yes. To stay in love. Oh, that's sweet.
1023
00:47:06,324 --> 00:47:07,868
[dreamy music playing]
1024
00:47:10,829 --> 00:47:14,749
Oaxaca seems to celebrate life
every chance it gets.
1025
00:47:16,418 --> 00:47:18,253
I want to sum up Oaxaca for you,
1026
00:47:18,336 --> 00:47:21,339
but I don't think I can do it
as well as my friend Bethsaida.
1027
00:47:22,591 --> 00:47:25,427
Oaxaca itself is lively.
1028
00:47:25,510 --> 00:47:28,263
That's why we say
you need to come to Oaxaca…
1029
00:47:28,346 --> 00:47:29,180
Yeah.
1030
00:47:29,264 --> 00:47:30,932
…because you need to live it.
1031
00:47:32,809 --> 00:47:34,227
Oaxaca, it's not just a state.
1032
00:47:34,311 --> 00:47:40,066
It's real, it's alive,
and it's shown in the dancing,
1033
00:47:40,150 --> 00:47:42,277
in the colors, in people,
1034
00:47:42,360 --> 00:47:46,031
in the languages,
in the food, in the music,
1035
00:47:46,114 --> 00:47:50,160
in the holy days, in the customs,
traditions, everything.
1036
00:47:51,536 --> 00:47:53,580
[Omar] I think
that if Mexico was the body,
1037
00:47:54,956 --> 00:47:56,249
Oaxaca is the heart.
1038
00:47:56,333 --> 00:47:58,209
-Oh.
-[chuckles]
1039
00:47:59,461 --> 00:48:03,506
If you haven't been to Oaxaca,
you don't know what you're missing.
1040
00:48:04,716 --> 00:48:08,428
And I would tell
all my neighbors in the United States,
1041
00:48:08,511 --> 00:48:12,432
we're pretty damn lucky
to have this country so close to us.
1042
00:48:13,141 --> 00:48:16,144
[music ends]
1043
00:48:18,104 --> 00:48:20,106
[theme song plays]
1044
00:48:32,202 --> 00:48:35,121
♪ So come sit at his table ♪
1045
00:48:35,205 --> 00:48:38,750
♪ If you're happy, hungry
Willing and able ♪
1046
00:48:39,501 --> 00:48:42,295
♪ To see how breaking bread ♪
1047
00:48:42,379 --> 00:48:46,132
♪ Can turn a stranger
Right into a friend ♪
1048
00:48:46,216 --> 00:48:47,884
♪ He will drive to you ♪
1049
00:48:47,968 --> 00:48:49,636
♪ He will fly to you ♪
1050
00:48:49,719 --> 00:48:51,554
♪ He will sing for you ♪
1051
00:48:51,638 --> 00:48:53,390
♪ And he'll dance for you ♪
1052
00:48:53,473 --> 00:48:55,058
♪ He will laugh with you ♪
1053
00:48:55,141 --> 00:48:57,060
♪ And he'll cry for you ♪
1054
00:48:57,143 --> 00:48:59,396
♪ There's just one thing
He asks in return ♪
1055
00:48:59,479 --> 00:49:02,190
♪ Somebody feed, somebody feed ♪
1056
00:49:02,691 --> 00:49:04,943
♪ Can somebody ♪
1057
00:49:05,527 --> 00:49:08,363
♪ Somebody feed Phil ♪
1058
00:49:08,446 --> 00:49:12,450
♪ Somebody feed him now ♪