["Strictly Latino" by Ed Margolis plays]
[indistinct conversations]
[song continues]
Gracias. Now it's a show.
This is breakfast.
[song ends]
Wow. Oh, that's very good.
I understand the line.
[man 1 chuckles]
Would you like a churro? You want? Come here. I have a lot.
Gracias.
Gracias. Dip in here. One dip.
-[man 1] One dip. -[Phil] Don't re-dip.
No re-dipping.
-[woman chuckles] Gracias. -[Phil] Churro?
-Okay, friend. You want to dip? -[man 2] Thank you.
-Sure. -One time.
[man 2 laughs]
[Phil] Where's your friend? Come have a churro.
How long did you-- did you have to queue?
[Phil] It looks like the queue is a long time,
but because we come with cameras, I don't have to queue at all.
[both laugh]
-[Phil] Did you try the big one? -[woman] Shall I dare? Okay.
-[Phil] Dip the whole thing. Yes. -[woman] Oh, my goodness.
I'm not sure I can show this, what's about to happen.
[all laughing]
[opening theme song plays]
♪ A happy, hungry man's ♪
♪ Travelin' all across the sea And the land ♪
♪ He's trying to understand ♪
♪ The art of pasta, pork Chicken, and lamb ♪
♪ He will drive to you ♪
♪ He will fly to you ♪
♪ He will sing for you ♪
♪ And he'll dance for you ♪
♪ He will laugh with you ♪
♪ And he'll cry for you ♪
♪ There's just one thing He asks in return ♪
♪ Somebody feed, somebody feed ♪
♪ Can somebody ♪
♪ Somebody feed Phil? ♪
♪ Somebody feed him now ♪
[upbeat guitar music playing]
[Phil] Madrid is the capital of Spain.
I love Barcelona, which feels like a little village.
I thought that would be charming, and it was.
And I thought that Madrid would not be charming.
But it is charming.
There are many, many beautiful neighborhoods and villages.
There's just a lot more of it.
And then you get the grandiosity and magnificence of a major world city
with a thousand years of history.
It's glorious.
And the food, spectacular.
[music continues]
[mellow guitar music playing]
[Phil] You know I love a market.
I think it's a microcosm of the city itself, if not all of life.
Madrid loves its markets too.
The city has 46 of them spread out across its many neighborhoods.
Over in the Salamanca District,
this unassuming doorway isn't just another storefront.
It's actually the entrance to a food market that's been around since 1882,
El Mercado De La Paz.
Here you can pick up fresh groceries from local vendors,
or you can do what I do and let the experts do the cooking
at one of its many food stalls.
We think of tortillas as the flat corn
or flour wrappers of our burritos and our tacos.
In Spain, the tortilla is this.
[exciting music playing]
Better known as tortilla de patatas,
it's potatoes mixed with olive oil, caramelized onions, and eggs.
Tortilla actually translates to "omelet" in English.
And the best one is right here at Casa Dani.
Hola.
-Hi! -Hi, Phil.
-[Phil] Dani! -How are you?
[Phil] Great to see you.
-Carmen. Nice to meet you. -Carmen, yes.
[Phil] Dani Garcia and his wife Carmen must be doing something right,
because it's been voted best tortilla in Spain.
We have a battle in Spain.
-Yes? -With or without onion?
You have to have with onion.
-Don't you? -Okay. I think so.
I prefer without.
-[Phil] You do? [gasps] -Yeah.
[Phil] Whoa…
-Hola. -Hi, hola.
-What's your name? -Noelia.
-Hi, Noelia. -It's my sister.
-Ah! The whole family is here. Very nice. -[Carmen] Yes.
[intriguing music playing]
[Phil] Here we go.
This is unbelievable. This is a perfect breakfast, isn't it?
This is without onion, just in case you want to taste it.
I'll try it for you. I'll play your game.
You like?
Yours is very good too.
I…
I think I like with the onion.
All right. Now I have to know the secret.
My mother tried different things of potato.
[Carmen] And then finally she found the perfect match.
So this potato is special because it melts a little bit, right?
[Dani] Yeah.
-[Phil] It gets very soft. -Yeah.
[Phil] The seasoning is so delicious too. That, you shouldn't say what it is.
[Carmen laughs]
[Phil] Should we walk around a little bit?
[Spanish guitar music playing]
[Carmen] This is where we buy the potatoes from.
[Dani] This is for today, only for me.
-[Phil] No. -Yeah.
[Phil] I asked, how many potatoes do they use a day?
1,700 pounds.
And 2,000 eggs.
Maybe I should get into the tortilla business.
-Wow. -Yes.
Business is good.
Or maybe just the tortilla-eating business.
So many good things here.
-[Dani] Phil, try the oyster. -[Phil] Dani has good ideas.
[exciting music playing]
[Phil] Wow. What's happening?
[Dani] This is-- is smoke of lemon.
[Phil] What?
Lemon-smoked oysters. That's what this is, a specialty.
[gasps]
-Magic. -Check.
Do you eat oysters?
I've never had an oyster.
-Oh. -[Carmen chuckles softly]
Carmen, she never tried an oyster.
The idea of it didn't appeal to her. I know a lot of people like this.
-He's trying to convince me to eat one. -Yeah, why not?
-Would you try? -Okay, I'll try.
-Yeah! -I'll try, Phil.
Here's one of my favorite things to do. I want to turn you on to stuff I like.
-First oyster. -I got one.
Yeah.
-[Carmen] Mm. -Think about the flavor.
[Carmen gasps]
-Serious? -[man laughs]
It was like when we used to dive.
-Yes. -And they're the same.
It takes you to the ocean, right?
Thank you very much.
-Super. -Now, do you really like it?
-[in Spanish] Yes, really. -Okay, good.
She now loves oysters. She wasn't kidding. She loves them.
This makes me very happy!
Ready?
[slurps] Mm.
-So nice. -Thank you.
You taste the smoke.
-You taste the lemon. -Mm-hmm.
But it's not overpowered. Gracias.
All I want you to do is try.
The trying is its own reward.
"Oh, I don't like fish." Yeah, I understand that if you're five.
But maybe as we get older, our tastes change. I know they do.
There is one special that we want you to try, the ham.
Oh, okay.
[gospel music playing]
Here's the thing. When you're in Spain,
you're going to have pork every day.
You may as well just live with it. You may as well convert.
Oh!
Very generous.
The Book of Pork.
-All right, my friends. -I'm crying.
-You're crying? -Yes.
[laughs]
This is perfect.
-This ham, the best in the world. -[Phil] The best in the world?
Oh!
Yes, you heard it right. Probably the best ham in the world.
Don't write to me, Italians!
I think you should open your mouth.
[gospel choir music playing]
Have you had communion today yet?
I am like a degenerate priest.
[man laughs]
We take care of our own.
Thank you.
[Phi] Is this the best day or what?
Manuel, my new friend.
Oh, look. I have a little left over.
Ha-ha!
[music ends]
Uh, I just had a blood test. I'm 61% pork.
[gentle guitar music playing]
[Phil] As you get near the heart of this city, the center of Old Madrid,
visually, you're struck by the architecture.
Beauty built by hand over centuries.
You can see history on every corner, down every small street.
The food then compounds your experience.
You can taste the history
and the care generations before have shown to perfecting these recipes.
We were doing some research, and it turns out
that the oldest continuously operating restaurant in the world is here in Madrid.
This is Sobrino de Botin.
-Good morning. Welcome to Botin. -A pleasure to be here.
-It's always my pleasure. -Thank you. Thank you.
Today, I'm getting a tour of this wonderful place by Antonio Gonzalez,
whose grandparents bought the restaurant many, many years ago.
Have been since 1725. My family is in Botin since 1930.
[Phil] Wow. This is my kind of place.
Steeped in history, and character, and culture.
Oh, boy.
[Antonio] This is the oven, the original oven.
This is from 1725?
Right. From 17-- Four more years, will be 300 years old.
This oven has been never off. [chuckles]
[Phil] The eternal flame has been going.
[Antonio] All the time, even during the Civil War,
'36, '39, my grandfather kept the oven burning.
[Phil] Isn't that something?
Wow!
It's like a little cave.
[Antonio] This is the oldest room in Botin.
[Phil] How old is this?
[Antonio] At least 1590.
There was an inn, or something like that here.
So, in 1725, Botin was built over another restaurant.
Amazing.
All right, let's go upstairs. Up a couple of centuries.
You've been feeding Madrid for literally hundreds of years.
You must have stories.
Ernest Hemingway was one of our most common clients.
[Phil] Ernest Hemingway.
[Antonio] He always sat in-- back to the wall.
He preferred to look always at the door.
-He was friend of my grandfather… -Right.
…and sometimes he went to the kitchen to cook his own paella.
[Phil] Hemingway would go in and cook it himself?
[Antonio] Cook the paella, but it was a disaster.
This is why my grandfather told him to keep--
-"You stick to writing." -Yeah.
-"You keep on writing." -"I won't write. You don't cook."
-[accordion music playing] -[Phil] Time for me to taste the food.
-[Antonio] Okay. Ready? Our specialty. -[Phil giggles]
[Antonio] Roast suckling pig.
Look, I know for many of you, this is a horror movie
when you see these baby pigs going into the wood oven, coming out,
being hacked up, eaten by ravenous, uh,
other pigs, I guess.
-Oh, my goodness! -Yes.
And this little piggy went to Phillip.
[Antonio chuckles]
I can only say this to the pig,
"I'm sorry,
but I have to eat you."
We always say pork wins.
[giggles]
Mm!
-[Antonio] The skin is the best part. -Of course. Crispy skin.
-[Antonio] The crispy skin. -Who doesn't like that?
[Phil] This country's love of the pig is serious.
Mm!
It spans centuries. The early Celts and Romans were huge fans.
Then during Moorish rule,
the eating of pork became an act of political defiance.
You notice I'm not stopping.
You know why? Because I'm so interested in history.
[both chuckling]
[Phil] People, if I were you, I would come here,
look at the history, feel the history, eat the history.
-It's too good. -[chuckles]
Now you understand why this is the oldest
continuously operating restaurant in the world.
That'll do, pig.
[Antonio and Richard laugh]
[bachata music plays]
[Phil] While ancient fires of tradition still burn in Madrid,
the flames of ingenuity and innovation are fanned here too.
In fact, this capital city is emerging as a major center
for state-of-the-art cooking with global influences.
Back here in the Salamanca District,
the future of Spanish cuisine is bold, diverse, and very unpredictable.
-Hey, Phil! How you doing? -Chef. It's nice to meet you.
The Best Chef awards came out this year,
and you know who's the number one best chef in the world?
This guy.
This young man's name is David Muñoz.
-Are you okay? -Yeah, I'm okay.
-Because you're wearing a straitjacket. -It looks like not? I know.
Anything can happen today.
-Are you ready? -[Richard laughs]
[Phil] He has a fancy restaurant called DiverXO.
This is his casual restaurant, called StreetXO.
I recommend you just to taste,
because I make a really long, long, long menu for you.
-[laughs] -So, it's a real roller coaster.
I hope I don't throw up
-like a real roller coaster. -[laughs]
This is hamachi sashimi.
With mojo made from huacatay.
It's a Peruvian herb.
This sea urchin
is a little bit more powerful than the one in Japan.
-Forte. -You have to--
Yes. Fuerte. You have to learn Spanish.
I will.
By the way, what street did you grow up on that this is street food?
[David laughs]
-It's nice, no? -It's nice.
-Wait a minute, what's happening? -I'm gonna eat that for you.
Mm.
-I love this kind of flavor, you know? -Yes.
When you have the spicy but fresh.
[Phil] And the chip makes it so much fun.
Yeah. You're gonna eat a lot with your hands today.
Good. I should have washed them.
[David laughs]
-Oh, scallop. -This is a Spanish scallop
with jalapeño gazpacho.
[Phil] Oh…
And this is a kind of
Tom kha gai emulsion.
Right away you are reminded of Thai food, right?
I love Thai food. I love Asian food in general.
And it's both spicy and comforty at the same time.
-Yeah. -[Phil] This is really some experience.
I want the people coming from any part of the world to feel it,
that what we're cooking is only gonna happen here.
So we're going with one of the signature dishes.
-This goes with your straitjacket. -Yes.
The blood of a chef who was not so good.
[both laugh]
Duck dumplings. Crispy pig's ear. That is so delicious.
We confit the pig's ear.
And then some spring onions. Pickled cucumber.
Ito togarashi.
It doesn't stop.
[David] It's a kind of chili from Japan.
Oh, yeah. Oh, it's hot.
[David] I love the crispiness on the pig's ear.
[Phil] Wow! I knew this would be good.
So next one, the inspiration comes from Thailand as well.
The filling is with chicken.
This is Ischia, baby shrimp from the south coast of Spain.
This is the sweet chili mayonnaise.
[Phil] So ingenious.
I already understand why everyone is waiting to come here.
One bite?
If you hungry, if you have a big mouth, you can do it.
[David] Yes, you can. [laughs]
Big mouth!
I can't even describe all the flavors going on.
To me it's like, if you go to the opera and there is so many things going on,
-but everything comes together. -Yes. Yes.
This is a beautiful aria, this dish.
Can I-- can I have, um, something to drink?
Of course.
-You were planning it. -Yes.
[bachata music playing]
[Phil] Cachaça!
[David] The eggs of Pedroche.
[Phil] Oh!
My dinosaur egg.
Ooh-la-la.
[Phil] That's sweet and delicious. You don't taste the alcohol.
-Goodbye! -[laughs]
This is red tuna from Spain sashimi.
[Phil] Whoa! Whoa! Whoa!
Bit of flavor of charcoal.
The croquette is made from sheep's milk with kimchi.
You have to eat it in one bite.
Mm!
I will marry you.
Okay.
Should I call Pedroche, my wife?
-Yeah, tell her the bad news. -[laughs]
-This is our Spanish pork belly. -[Phil] Oh!
This is not in one bite. No worries.
[laughs] What if I did it?
[laughs] If you do it in one bite, I will kiss you anyway.
[laughs]
[banging counter]
I was only going to eat a little of each thing. I'm finishing this.
Every bite amazing, but now I am dead.
For your next course,
roasted Spanish octopus.
Wow!
This is a laksa. A kind of Spanish laksa.
-We're going for a new cocktail. -[Phil] Okay. Look at that.
Mm-doh!
This is a bao with baby suckling pig.
[Phil] I'm so full, but I cannot stop.
How do I do it?
People always ask me, "How do you eat so much?"
And I have to say, when the food is this frigging great,
how do you stop?
[David] This is a lasagna.
[Richard laughs]
Were you expecting a much bigger person?
-[laughs] No! You have only to try. -[Richard laughs]
I don't know.
Another cocktail. Stir it with the prawn.
[David] Yes.
I honestly don't know. I think this is my superpower.
[David] So we're going for our take on ramen.
You wanted a food show.
[David and Richard laughing]
[Phil] Insane how good.
No, really, throw your wife out, because I'm coming in.
So we're making the chili crab and some cherry wine,
and we are gonna eat it with… lobster.
People. StreetXO.
This has been one of the great meals ever,
or I'm drunk. One of the two.
[David and Richard laugh]
[Phil] Will anyone notice if I take my pants off?
[David laughs]
[gentle guitar music playing]
[Phil] Okay, now I want to show you a very special restaurant
we found here in Madrid.
It's called MO de Movimiento.
-Felipe! -Hello. Phil.
Yes.
-How are you? -It's nice to meet you.
-I always like to meet another Felipe. -[laughs]
-[Phil] This is your place. -Yeah.
MO de Movimiento.
[Phil] Co-owner Felipe Turell not only serves up
freshly-baked, handmade bread and world-class wood oven pizza,
but he and his team also do it in a very sustainable way.
We don't just make pizzas here. We use it to warm up the space.
[Phil] Really? So steam heat in the restaurant from the wood oven.
-Yeah, exactly. -Wow. And what are these here?
[Felipe] We use, with water and a fan, we actually cool out the space.
-This is the air conditioning. Yeah? -It's a kind of hybrid model.
When we are not very hot or very warm, we use them.
-[chuckles] -Hi, everybody.
[man chuckles]
-[Phil] Oh, looks good. -[Felipe chuckles]
[Phil] Felipe and his team of industry professionals
work with social organizations to mentor at-risk youth
and other disadvantaged people for careers in the industry.
The results are nothing short of delicious.
[Felipe] Fifty percent of the team we have here
are coming from disadvantaged situations.
So we use MO de Movimiento as a platform to change lives.
[Phil] Half the staff are professional
and half are people who need to learn a skill or want to learn?
-[Felipe] Yeah. -Oh, it's nice and warm in here.
-What's your name? -Isabelle.
Hi, Isabelle, I'm Phil. How long have you worked here?
Uh, almost three years, since we opened.
And you-- you just loved, uh, baking bread?
-It's the best bread we have. [laughs] -Are you making it now?
-Is there a fresh one? -I have some. Let me just take it out.
[Phil] Oh!
[mellow music playing]
I came at the right time.
[Felipe] We make it this morning.
I think that was at 9:00. That was the first one I did.
-You're giving me the old bread from 9:00? -[laughs]
There you go.
Mm.
There's walnuts in?
-Nuts, yeah. -Wow.
Muchas gracias.
[Isabelle] De nada. [laughs]
[Phil] Come here, eat the food, support good people.
This is what it's all about.
I love it.
[music continues]
[music ends]
[traditional guitar music playing]
[Phil] My favorite way to explore a new city is by walking,
and Madrid feels like one of the most walkable cities I've ever been to.
Each little neighborhood has its own character,
so you never get bored.
For me, I'm drawn back to the old center of town.
And when I say old, I mean Middle Ages old.
That was when Plaza Mayor was built.
Back then, it was the town square.
The site for markets, tournaments,
and if you got out of line, you had front-row seats to public justice.
-[whip cracks] -[man screams]
It's changed over hundreds of years,
but it remains the vibrant heart of the city.
Speaking of old, just a short stroll away,
you can eat at Grandpa's House or Casa del Abuelo.
Hola.
Jamón.
I'm not here for the jamón today, but if he's offering…
Ah! Gracias.
Usually there's a place that's so good that we eat at that the whole crew says,
"Can we go back there off-camera?" And we hit it again.
This time, we found this off-camera and had to put it on-camera
as a public service.
Ah-- Oh!
Yes! Gracias.
[romantic music plays]
-[sizzling] -Ho-ho-ho-ho-ho!
Casa del Abuelo.
They are famous for gambas al ajillo.
Come on, the best garlic shrimp,
maybe ever.
Bubbling, sizzling olive oil with tons of garlic and cayenne pepper.
Oh my God, so garlicky, so buttery.
The shrimp are sweet and delicious. I can't get over it.
And the crusty bread that's super soft inside that was made for sampling.
Have you had this?
-[man] Very good! -[laughs]
It's the best garlic shrimp you ever had in your life.
Goodbye, everybody. [giggles]
I'm gonna be here a while.
[upbeat music plays]
And now for Spain's greatest contribution to the smallest of food portions, tapas.
Tasty slices of jamón, thick chunks of chorizo, fried squid.
Any and all of these can make a great tapa.
It's said that Spanish King Alfonso VIII was served a glass of wine
with a slice of cured ham as a cover to protect it from the insects.
It's good to be the king, and it's good to be us,
because tapas went old-school viral after that royal event.
Fast-forward to today, and I'm meeting up with a great chef, Javier Bonet.
Raised by a family of butchers,
he honed his craft in three-star Michelin kitchens around the world.
Today, he's taking me to a couple of his favorite tapas bars
around the trendy Calle Ponzano.
Here's the first one.
Look at this cute little place called Barrera.
-Hola. -[woman] Hola.
-I'm Phil. It's nice to meet you. -Nice to meet you.
[Bonet] This is revolconas.
[Phil] Sweet potato.
No, it's white potato.
It's the pimento, the paprika, the various--
-Makes it that color. -Yeah, everything, and also,
they cook the pork belly inside.
Like a bread, crispy bread.
Come on. So this is the world's best bread to dip, because it's pork.
It's pork. It's just pork.
We like pork in Spain. Did you know?
-[Bonet chuckles] -[traditional guitar music plays]
[Phil] Wow!
[Bonet] I never order here.
-This is my favorite way to eat. -She doesn't have menu.
[Phil] Oh boy. Wow.
We need some space here.
[Phil] Tapas is supposed to be small plates, isn't it?
Not really right now.
-[Ana] No, -[Phil laughs] Not really. No, I know.
It's a way, how you eat the food, sharing with somebody.
This is the concept of tapas.
[Phil] Oh, look at this.
-I know I'll like this. -[Ana] That's frittatas.
[Bonet] This is baby goat.
People, remember this name, because if you see it on the menu,
you should probably get it. Cabrito.
Say it with me, "cabrito."
-[giggles] -[Bonet] A bite… in the hands.
A young goat done in a wood fire for many hours.
This is an amazing version done by Ana.
Look at the skin on that. Come on. Doesn't that look amazing?
Goat, people. I don't know what you're waiting for. Goat.
-[Richard laughs] -Baby goat.
-I don't like to say "baby." -[Bonet] No.
[all chuckling]
[Phil] I love all of this.
She is the best-kept secret in Madrid.
Yeah, I think so.
-Thank you. -[Phil] You are so talented.
Javier, maybe she can give you a job here.
-[Bonet] Yeah, like cleaning dishes. -Yeah. You have to start somewhere.
-[Bonet] I will. -[all chuckling]
[slow rock music plays]
The next place he wants to take me to for tapas is Ponzano.
If you want to say it right,
"Pon-fano."
-Hey! Hi. Wow! -[women] Hola!
[Phil] Beautiful place.
Oh, they look surprised to be in this position.
[all laughing]
[Phil] Second-generation owners Paco and Elena,
along with their daughter Melania,
are showing us their tapas "A" game.
Beef heart tomato and a sweet onion slice.
I thought I was going into the deep end already with beef heart,
-but it's heart of tomato. -It's a tomato.
-Okay. Good. -Yeah. It's called like that
-because it looks like a heart. -Oh, beauty. I love it.
Vegetable tapas that are coming out, little things that are coming out.
-[plates clanking] -[Phil] Uh-oh.
[Bonet and Paco] Boletus.
[Phil] You are very good.
[chuckles] When did you start working here?
When I was 12.
-Wow. -I'm now 21.
[Phil] Wow.
-Mushroom is in here. With the egg. -[Bonet] Yeah. With the egg.
[Paco] A little bit of foie.
-A little bit of foie? -[Elena] And truffles.
-Tartufo. -[Elena] Tartufo.
[Bonet] And truffle too. Ah.
-Good neighbors. [chuckles] -Grated.
-Grated truffle. -Just when I was feeling a little unlucky.
[Bonet chuckles] Octopus, boom.
[Phil giggles]
He's fast.
[Bonet] This is not like a regular restaurant.
It's more like a bar mentality.
You have to serve a lot of food here, but you have to be fast.
[Paco] Lamb chops.
[Bonet] We have baby goat before, and now baby lamb.
-We eat all the babies. -All the babies.
We don't have problems with babies.
[Phil] I like this one.
-Like chin-chin. -Chin-chin.
[Bonet chuckles]
[Phil] And then Paco goes, "Oh, just one more little thing."
Oh, look at--
[Elena chuckles]
[Bonet] "Just a little bit," he said, yeah?
-[Paco] Yeah. -[Phil] Wow!
How is this tapas?
This is a giant honking piece of meat, people.
This is now a steakhouse.
I've been, uh, tricked.
"Oh, we're just going for a little tapas." Yeah.
[roars]
That is beautiful beef.
[Paco] Okay.
-Okay. Good. -[Bonet] Good.
-[all laughing] -[Bonet] Okay.
[Elena] Brontosaurus.
[both chuckle]
Nice?
Yeah. I will bite here, like…
-Sharing-- -Now we are brothers.
I like the fat.
You know who else likes this? My real brother.
[Bonet chuckles] Your brother.
[Phil] I thought maybe they were gonna use a little bit
and put it on bread like tapas.
No, I got the whole steak like I'm at Dario Cecchini's in Tuscany.
It was unbelievable.
-Good neighbors. -Good neighbors.
[Phil] Good neighbors. I wish you were my neighbor.
-[Elena and Javier] Yeah. -[all laughing]
[Phil] Muchas gracias.
[gentle guitar music playing]
[Phil] Today, we're going on a road trip.
We're taking the high-speed train a half an hour
to a magical place called Toledo.
[music intensifies]
Here's what I know about Toledo. You have a few minutes? Settle in.
It used to be the capital of Spain,
and they have a large marzipan sculpture of Don Quixote.
[music fades]
Impressed?
[music resumes]
People say, "Phil, you have so much knowledge about each place."
Yes. I know. It's, uh, staggering, isn't it?
[Richard laughs]
So, because I'm a little stupid in this area,
if not many areas, I need a tour.
I need Toledo tour guide Javier Casado to show me the way.
-[Javier] Look at the view. Nice. -[Phil] It's very beautiful.
-How long have you lived here? -[Javier] All my life. [chuckles]
It's a nice place to live.
[pleasant music plays]
So, the city has three religions come together.
[Javier] In the Middle Ages, Muslims, Christians, and Jews were living together.
This little square was named, in the old days, Alcana.
Alcana means "the shops" in Hebrew.
-See the tower, the cathedral? -[Phil] Ah!
Built in the 13th century,
the Toledo Cathedral is considered by many to be the crowning achievement
of Gothic architecture in Spain.
[Javier] So in the inside, this huge, huge bell,
which is the biggest in Spain and one of the biggest in the world.
Eighteen tons.
-[Phil] An 18-ton bell. -[Javier chuckles] Right.
[Phil] The nearby Church of Santo Tomé even boasts one of the masterpieces
of the famous 16th century painter El Greco, who lived in Toledo.
-The Jewish Quarter. -Yeah.
I suddenly felt that we were now in the Jewish Quarter.
I don't know why, but I had this uncontrollable urge to complain.
[Richard laughs]
[Javier] There was around 12 synagogues.
But only, unluckily, two are remaining.
[Phil] And what building is this here?
[Javier] In the old days, it was a prison and a convent.
[Phil] Oh.
What's the difference?
It turns out that the convent
is also the source of Toledo's claim to marzipan fame.
The story goes a famine in the 15th century or so
led to a shortage of wheat flour.
So, the nuns at the convent had to use what was available
to satisfy their sweet tooth.
They used almond flour as a substitute, and voilà, a marzipan miracle.
Somebody dreamed an impossible dream of almond paste.
[Richard laughs]
[Phil] And as I like to say, when in Toledo, buy a dozen donuts
and share them with random people.
-Thank you! -You're very welcome.
-[woman] It's so delicious. -[Phil] You're from Tunisia?
-Yes. -All of you? Are you all one family?
-No, we are a group. Group friends. -Group of friends?
Better than family.
-Yes. -[Phil] Yeah.
Oh, and I almost forgot,
there's one more cool fact I learned about this place.
[clanging]
Hey, do you like swords?
-[dramatic music plays] -[whooshes]
Toledo's famous for making the best swords in the world
for thousands of years. Yes!
Since the fifth century B.C.,
blacksmiths here have put strips of iron within their blades
and forged their steel at just the right heat
to create a sword both loved and feared around the world.
Why you need swords today, I don't know.
Not many dragons to slay or windmills to tilt at anymore.
A little safer than guns, maybe?
But come to think of it, I could use a new letter opener.
Adios, Toledo. I'm due back in Madrid for dinner.
[flamenco music playing]
[Phil] Whoever said New York is the city that never sleeps
has clearly never been to Madrid.
If you're having dinner at 10:00 p.m. here,
you're getting the early bird special.
Life moves fast in this town.
Thankfully, I have cool, hip friends like Chef Javier to help keep me up.
What is the name of this neighborhood?
Chamberi.
It's maybe the most classic neighborhood in Madrid.
It becomes younger every year.
Ten years ago, was very old neighborhood.
And now they die,
and they-- they start to-- to come,
-you know, young people. -The whole world is like this way.
Javier promised to show me where all the cool kids eat.
And it just happens to be in his restaurant,
Sala de Despiece.
That's the right way.
I know it doesn't sound right coming out of me,
but if Manuel says it, he would say it like this.
Sala de Despiece.
I'm not gonna try it again.
-Give me your coat. -Yeah.
On a meat hook.
Do you do that to bad customers also?
[Bonet] Yeah, sometimes.
[Phil] This is Javier's experimental restaurant.
It looks like a lab.
It looks like, you know, you're going in for science class.
We use this name, Sala de Despiece,
which is Cutting Room,
where they slice and they prepare for restaurants or for market.
So this has special meaning, you come from a family of butchers.
Family, yeah.
[exciting music plays]
Oh, that looks like a deconstructed tartare.
We're going now to show you how to do one of them,
and then you will do it by yourself.
[Phil] Yeah. What's that?
[woman] That one is tartufata.
It's made with black olive, mushroom, and truffle.
Then tomatoes, basil, and garlic.
And, now,
-you are going to roll up everything. -Oh!
I'm not sure you shouldn't just do mine.
I'm sure you can do it.
-[Phil] Spread this. -[Bonet] You spread like this.
-Tomato. -Champiñón.
-[Phil] Spread it out. -Tomato.
[Phil] I see a little olive oil here.
I am a chef.
[chuckles]
You… You… I… Tak-tak.
[chuckling]
I made it too loose, right?
-I know what you're thinking. -Yeah.
[Phil] "He can never work here" is what you're thinking.
-Not terrible. -[Bonet] Not bad.
And now you want-- You need to do like this.
-Sure, take the good one. -Yeah.
[all chuckle]
-Okay. -Whole thing?
Whole thing.
Wow, that's good!
Do you know who Charlize Theron is?
-[Bonet] Yeah. -She was on a talk show once,
and she said, "If I could, I would marry Spanish food."
A chef, maybe?
-No. Not interested in the chef. Sorry. -[Richard laughs]
[Phil] I can understand where she's coming from.
I'm honeymooning with Spanish food here.
-[torch hissing] -You see we've got some Iberian pancetta
with cane sugar on top.
-So you're brûlée-ing? -Kind of.
[Bonet] This is just to get the fat oily.
[Phil] Genius.
[Bonet] You have this yolk that's been cooked for more than one hour,
a Micuit foie gras.
Now you will see,
-we're going to do like a bonbon. -Oh, yes! You like your roll-ups.
-[Bonet] I roll everything. -You grew up with Fruit Roll-Ups.
Yeah. [laughs]
[Phil] That's beautiful.
Each customer, you prepare this in front of them.
[Bonet] Yeah, of course.
This is what dinner theater should be.
You eat it in one bite and enjoy it.
Not only is every bite of food wild,
you have bright people like Alva,
knowledgeable and passionate about the exquisite fare they offer.
Serving us both with-- with such kindness and warmth.
Couldn't be happier at this place.
-Oh, boy, a present. -Okay.
A present. La Cosa.
-"The thing"? -The thing.
[Phil imitates fanfare]
Oh!
[Bonet] What do you think is that?
I think it's the head of my enemy.
-[Bonet and Alva laugh] -Is it a giant beet?
[Bonet] It's a giant beet.
Roasted for four hours on sea salt and a lot of herbs,
and then become like a meat, or maybe a salmon.
-[Phil] You are filleting the beet. -Yeah, like ham.
-[Phil] Like jamón, yes. -Jamón.
On the bottom, you have crème fraîche, dill,
and a beetroot sweet-and-sour sauce.
The texture is nice.
I love this.
Every bite delicious and inventive and thought-provoking.
It feels like a laboratory.
The white counter.
This light.
[Bonet] And it's very traditional at the same time.
-The ingredients are traditional. -Salsa-- Yeah.
And the way to eat it, more…
-[Phil] Fun. Really fun. -[Bonet] Have fun.
[Phil] I love-- I love your face as you bring something.
-[giggles] -Like, "Oh, this'll get him!"
Ciao, chicos.
[Phil] Ciao.
-[Bonet speaks Spanish] -Ciao, ciao.
-You like it? -[man] Love it.
Okay.
-Bye! Hello, goodbye! -Bye!
-I'm not going anywhere. -[chuckles]
I-- I closed the place.
You ate the whole dessert.
-I'm sorry. -[chuckles]
[Phil laughs]
[intriguing music playing]
[Phil] Hey, Google. Video call Larry.
Look how beautiful you are! Hi, Larry!
Hey! How's it going?
What do you got there? A sushi clock behind you?
[laughs] Yes, exactly.
-That's adorable. -That's exactly…
-It's a Bed Bath & Beyond special, yes. -[giggles]
You're in L.A., yes?
I'm in Los Angeles.
I just remembered you were on one of our first episodes of the other show,
I'll Have What Phil's Having, the PBS show, when we did L.A.
We did the taco truck. Made the carnitas all day long and-- Oh!
-So good! -Speaking of pork,
you know what's very good in Spain?
Did you watch them
-cut that off of the leg? -Yes, yes.
We watched them, you know, cut the beautiful slices like that, right?
-There you go. Very nice. -Isn't this the greatest thing?
Here, go back where you belong, honey.
-[chuckling] And now go… Go in here. -[Richard laughs]
-[chuckles] -[crunches]
Mm! Yum-yum.
Mm!
Don't need anything on it. Just the bread and the meat.
It's true.
You have a beautiful baguette,
-fresh, crispy, soft inside. -Yeah.
-And the world's best ham. -[Larry groans enviously]
Well, Larry, you're a comedian. You have a joke for Max?
So, this is a golf joke,
and I think your-- your father would enjoy the spirit by which, uh…
[chuckles] …this comes.
Oh, okay, so a guy's playing golf with his wife
on this really rustic course.
It's just beautiful.
It's rolling hills, green grass, very pastoral, that type of thing.
And, uh, one of the holes,
he hits the ball to the right of this, like, barn,
this old, like, almost rustic barn.
He and his wife go over there and he sees the ball and goes,
"Know what, honey? I'm gonna pick the ball up,
drop it on the other side of the barn, we'll take a one-stroke penalty."
She goes, "Honey,
what if you just open the barn doors and just hit the ball through?"
"You're a good golfer."
"You could do that and not take a penalty stroke."
He goes, "Hmm, that's a pretty good idea."
So he lines the ball up, opens the door, lines the ball up, hits the ball.
Unfortunately, he mishits a little bit, ricochets off one wall,
ricochets off another wall, hits an old tractor,
hits his wife in the head, knocks her out, she's dead.
[gasps]
One year later, the guy's playing on the exact same course.
He's with a friend of his now. Hasn't played in a whole year.
He's actually starting to enjoy himself again.
He's having fun, and then he comes to that same hole,
and he hits the ball almost to the exact same position.
He runs over there. His friend is with him.
He says, "I'm going to pick the ball up,
take an unplayable lie, and drop it on the other side."
And his friend says, "Hey, why don't you just open the barn doors,
hit it right through there."
"You're a good golfer. You don't have to take a penalty."
He goes, "No. I did that last year. I made six on this hole."
[all laughing]
That's a--
You know, it's more than a golf joke. I'll tell you why.
And my father would've loved that joke, because what it really is is a wife joke.
[laughing]
God, I wish I could have met him, you know?
He'd have loved you.
I'm glad I made the crew laugh. That's the key.
-You have to make the crew laugh. -By the way, Larry, it's all we have.
[all laughing]
[pensive music playing]
[music intensifies]
[Phil] For my last stop, I'm headed to Sacha,
an intimate bistro here in Madrid
with some of the most acclaimed Basque cuisine in the city.
[exciting traditional music playing]
I'm thrilled to gather with some of the friends I've made along the way,
Carmen, Felipe…
Plus three new friends, Chef Guillermo Salazar,
who cut his teeth at Gramercy Tavern in New York, but is now back in Madrid.
José Carlos Capel,
and his wife, Julia Pérez Lozano,
two of the preeminent food writers and critics in all of Spain.
And last but not least, an old friend, Henry Tenney,
who's our great supervising story producer.
He came to see one of our shoots. It just happened to be Madrid.
-A toast to Madrid, which I love. -[Carmen] Thank you.
It's now on the list at the top of my favorite cities.
How do you keep up with all the restaurants that are opening here?
-That is impossible. -[Carmen laughs]
Do you eat out every day?
-[laughs] Every day. -[Jose] Lunch.
[Phil] How are you, friend?
This is Chef Sacha Hormaechea,
the owner and head chef of the restaurant.
His unique personal flair translates to his choice of creations as well.
First up, hamachi and tuna heart plated on a set of coffee cans.
[Sacha speaking Spanish]
He says, "Any dish from any country,
it only needs one gesture to make it a tapa."
[all laughing]
That's fantastic.
Now it's a tapa.
The fish is obviously the slice of fish,
and then the heart is just the stuff grated on top.
-Cured heart. -[Phil] I see.
[Julia] El Madrigal is very typical from Canary Islands.
[Phil] Canary Islands.
It's amazing, you know? I love it. I love it.
[Phil] So fresh.
When you come here, you eat what Sacha wants.
-[Phil] Really? No menu? -Yes.
You can order, he'll say, "You're not gonna have that."
-[Phil laughs] I like that. -No. You better eat this.
Because then you feel taken care of.
-Oysters? -[Salazar] Yeah, these are oysters,
-which are kind of like in a light pickle. -[Phil] Yes.
[Carmen] Phil, I love oysters now.
-Yes! You're welcome. -[all laughing]
-[Henry] You didn't before? -No, I tried my first oyster--
Who introduced you to an oyster?
-Phil. -Thank you!
-[Henry] Cheers! -Cheers.
To oysters!
[Carmen] I was afraid. I'm not anymore. [laughs]
[Julia] Ah! The food's coming.
-[Salazar] This dish is iconic. -You know it?
If you don't have this, it's like you haven't been here.
[Phil] This looks like uni on top of a ravioli.
It's filled with a crab mousseline,
and then just like really nice olive oil and just the uni on top.
"Uni" which is el erizo in Spanish.
[Julia] This is the taste of Galicia.
-Like Galicia in the mouth. -So good.
Henry?
My finest moment.
-This is gonna come back to me. -[Phil] Aw.
[Phil] I know that when chefs are in the kitchen,
they are looking to see what is coming back into the kitchen, right?
They're seeing how much comes back.
I want Sacha to see this plate.
[laughing]
But you really had a great idea when you did that.
How do you not do that?
If there was no bread, I was going to lick the bowl.
[Salazar laughs]
[Phil] This makes me so happy.
[Sacha speaks Spanish]
[Phil] The food is fantastic.
-I don't know if you've heard that before. -[Felipe laughs]
Let me be the first.
-That's the-- -He said so?
No.
-[speaks Spanish] -[Phil] You gave him a bad review?
[all laughing]
Years ago, he gave him not a great review.
He had a little criticism.
And I thought, "Wow, there must be bad blood." No.
You must have written it very beautifully so as not to offend him in any way.
-And be encouraging. -[Salazar] They have a good relationship.
He actually did the best review ever, 'cause--
[Sacha speaking Spanish]
[Salazar] He used to be a photographer.
He says that it's a shame that he dedicated so much time to photography
because he would have been
-one of the greatest chefs. -[Julia] Then he--
And then he'd spend more time cooking.
That's very rare. Also, to-- for a restaurateur
to admit the critic changed his life…
That's a lesson. Never be so closed-minded and think you know everything,
because a good note can come from anywhere.
Even a network executive.
-He's one of a kind. We said this before. -[Phil] Yes.
If we were to, uh, score this scene with music,
what music would you put under this scene?
-Flamenco. -[Carmen] Flamenco.
-We can do it. -[Henry] Yeah. I'll make it happen.
[Sacha speaks Spanish]
-[plays flamenco beat] -[flamenco music playing]
[Phil] My time in Madrid has been so wonderful.
There's not one single thing I thought, "Meh, that's not so good."
Everything was really good.
A city this old, they've learned a thing or two,
but I love that it can still surprise you with its character, its charm.
Nothing is better in life than traveling and making new friends, right?
[giggles]
I couldn't love it more here, and I can't wait to come back.
-Is there more coming? -[in Spanish] Yes.
[laughs]
Ah!
What am I eating?
[Salazar] It's something you haven't eaten yet. Pig.
-[Phil] Part of the pig I didn't eat yet? -[Julia] Yeah. [laughs]
[all laughing]
[Phil] What was I just saying about surprises?
It's-- it's the ear.
-That's an ear? -[Salazar] Yes.
You would have thought he heard you coming.
[Carmen laughs] Yeah.
[all laughing]
[music ends]
-[theme song plays] -♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Somebody ♪
♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Somebody ♪
♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Somebody ♪
♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Somebody ♪
♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Somebody ♪
♪ Somebody please, somebody please ♪
♪ Can somebody ♪
♪ Somebody feed Phil ♪
♪ Oh please, somebody ♪
♪ Somebody feed Phil ♪
♪ Somebody feed him now ♪