1
00:00:09,708 --> 00:00:11,416
[alarm on]
My name is David Farrier.
2
00:00:11,708 --> 00:00:13,458
[alarm on]
I'm a journalist from New Zealand,
3
00:00:13,541 --> 00:00:17,125
and I'm investigating dark tourist
hotspots around the world.
4
00:00:17,416 --> 00:00:19,625
This time, I'm traveling in Japan.
5
00:00:20,041 --> 00:00:23,083
[group screaming and running]
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[narrator]
Dark tourism can be hazardous,
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00:00:25,541 --> 00:00:29,875
so what better way to start my trip
than a disaster training course?
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00:00:29,958 --> 00:00:31,375
The quake starts
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00:00:32,666 --> 00:00:33,666
Quite intense.
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00:00:34,375 --> 00:00:38,708
But I'm not really sure this is going to
prepare me for what's to come.
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00:00:40,125 --> 00:00:43,458
As I visit
the world's most popular suicide spot...
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00:00:43,541 --> 00:00:46,125
-[David] There's something on that tree.
-[jake] That's not good.
13
00:00:46,250 --> 00:00:47,250
[dance music]
14
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...I step into a bizarre future
run entirely by robots...
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[robot speaking]
Please enjoy your stay in Henn na Hotel.
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[narrator]
...explore a ten-story ghost island...
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00:00:58,666 --> 00:00:59,958
This is amazing.
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00:01:00,291 --> 00:01:03,708
...and I indulge in
a spot of nuclear tourism.
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-So what are you seeing here?
-[Anya] Oh, my God.
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00:01:05,750 --> 00:01:08,583
The level of radiation is higher
than around Chernobyl,
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00:01:08,666 --> 00:01:10,083
where no one is allowed to go.
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Life can be dangerous
when you're a dark tourist.
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[series music]
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[narrator] I start my trip at the center
of one of Japan's worst disasters.
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The atomic meltdown
in the province of Fukushima.
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Nuclear tourism. Who would
have thought it would be a thing?
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Most normal people wouldn't go near
a radioactive nuclear site,
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but it sounds perfect for a dark tourist
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and I'm in a bus full of them.
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[earthquake trembling noise]
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[narrator] In 2011,
this province was devastated [movement of wave] by a massive earthquake
and then a tsunami,
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which caused an explosion and radiation
leak at the Daiichi nuclear power station.
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[movement of waves]
Over 20,000 people were killed.
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Much more of the province was evacuated
because of the radiation.
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Until now,
this has been a restricted area,
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but the government says
it's now okay for residents to return.
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I had to come and see for myself
what a nuclear disaster looks like.
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Is it even safe to be here?
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[Yo,] Well, ladies and gentlemen,
I am your tourist guide.
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[narrator] Our guide for the day is Yo.
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So I have to be careful
with my right and left
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because to you it's switched.
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So I have to say, "On your right,"
and, "On your left."
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[Yo laughing]
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[narrator] It seems like just another walk
in the radioactive park for Yo.
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00:03:03,291 --> 00:03:06,208
He certainly doesn't seem concerned
about any danger.
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00:03:06,833 --> 00:03:09,458
What are the levels
you'd be concerned about, Yo?
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So for living in the area...
[geiger beeping]
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...0.20 worries me.
[continuous beeping]
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[David] Okay.
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00:03:16,875 --> 00:03:20,000
It's funny. It's very hard.
Because you're such a happy person,
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it's very hard to know, for me and for us,
how dangerous it is.
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I'm not growing extra horns
or extra fingers.
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[passengers laughing]
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[narrator] My fellow dark tourists include
a group of equally fascinated foreigners.
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[Anya] I heard that vitamin D helps offset
the effects of radiation.
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Keeping yourself safe any way you can.
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Yeah.
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[narrator] Our first stop on the disaster
tour is the town of Tomioka.
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The tsunami didn't get this far,
but the town did get hit by the 'quake
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and then the radioactive cloud.
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[Yo] Okay, let's get off the bus.
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[narrator] This is one of the towns
the government says is safe,
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but the residents don't seem keen
on returning.
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In fact, it's still completely abandoned.
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-[David] There's not a lot of people here.
-Yeah.
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[David] Pretty quiet.
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[narrator] I'm surprised
that thieves haven't looted the place.
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Maybe they know something we don't.
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[geiger beeping]
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00:04:27,791 --> 00:04:28,916
[Anya] Oh, my God!
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-[Anya] 0.7.
-[David] We're going up. 0.72.
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[narrator]
We've all brought our own Geiger counters,
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00:04:35,208 --> 00:04:38,250
the equivalent of metal detectors
for radiation.
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00:04:38,708 --> 00:04:40,583
Suddenly, they all start pinging off.
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The radiation here is way higher
than anything I was warned about
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and immediately
the nuclear tourists are concerned.
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[Anya] You told us before
that the level of radiation
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at which you'd start being worried
is 0.2.
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00:04:55,000 --> 00:04:57,958
My Geiger meter is showing 0.75.
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00:04:58,041 --> 00:05:01,583
That's higher than around Chernobyl,
where no one is allowed to go.
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00:05:02,166 --> 00:05:06,583
How do you tell people that it's okay
to come here when it's such a high level?
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00:05:07,166 --> 00:05:10,416
Because they had declared
state of emergency,
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00:05:10,500 --> 00:05:15,500
that means they can raise
the maximum amount of radiation allowed.
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00:05:15,583 --> 00:05:20,083
And they want to make the appearance
of being safe here.
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00:05:20,166 --> 00:05:21,166
[tourist] But it's not.
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00:05:23,583 --> 00:05:25,958
-You can find it yourself.
-But...
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00:05:26,250 --> 00:05:28,750
-[tourist girl] In how many years?
-In how many years, yeah.
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It will probably take more than 200 years
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00:05:32,458 --> 00:05:36,375
to bring everything back to normal,
so to say.
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00:05:36,458 --> 00:05:37,916
-[tourist girl] 200?
-200.
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00:05:40,416 --> 00:05:41,416
[narrator] Suddenly,
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00:05:41,500 --> 00:05:44,541
nuclear tourism doesn't seem like
such a great idea.
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It's a little unsettling when this thing
starts beeping more and more,
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00:05:49,833 --> 00:05:54,708
especially when you're seeing stores
with broken shop fronts and everything.
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00:05:55,166 --> 00:05:58,750
And some little kids' bikes inside.
It's pretty eerie.
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00:06:00,500 --> 00:06:03,416
I can see why it's hard
to get people to move back, you know?
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00:06:04,875 --> 00:06:06,333
[narrator] And it gets better.
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00:06:07,208 --> 00:06:10,583
Yo tells us
the dust is particularly radioactive.
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00:06:10,916 --> 00:06:14,125
He warns breathing it in
could give us cancer.
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00:06:14,583 --> 00:06:18,208
I'm not sure this is the kind of thrill
these dark tourists were hoping for.
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I notice you've got your mask on now.
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00:06:23,583 --> 00:06:25,666
[tourist] Well, it's so dusty in here.
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You're making me think
I should put one on as well.
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-I sort of forgot we had them.
-[tourist] Well, they are available, so...
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00:06:33,375 --> 00:06:34,333
[sighs]
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-[tourist girl] You have to open it.
-I've got to open it up?
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00:06:38,875 --> 00:06:41,500
Oh, I see. Never had to put one on before.
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[Yo speaking]
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It's just really dusty in here. I figured
it was a good time to put it on.
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But, as you can see,
it fogs up my glasses,
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00:06:50,541 --> 00:06:54,125
so now I can't see anything.
Got a real fog problem.
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[narrator] We head out of Tomioka
along Route Six,
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00:07:01,083 --> 00:07:03,125
into the heart of the nuclear disaster.
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We are passing through areas
which still remain part
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of the feared radioactive exclusion zone,
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though, in a cunning act of rebranding,
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the government now prefers to call it
the "difficult to return to" zone.
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-[Yo] This is a gate street.
-[David] Gates on every entrance.
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[Yo] Look at those gates.
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[narrator]
There are barriers blocking entrances
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to any possible way into the no go zone.
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00:07:28,541 --> 00:07:30,916
This is now looking
more like a military zone
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and the bus isn't even allowed
to stop here.
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But Yo is prepared to try and get us in.
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[Yo speaking Japanese]
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[Japanese guard]
This is a "difficult to return to" zone.
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Go back to the bus.
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This area is closed, except for vehicles.
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You need to leave quickly.
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What's the problem?
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This is the area that's designated
as the "no returning" area.
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So we're not supposed to park
around here and let the people out.
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-Okay.
-[Yo] Only passing through.
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How long have you worked here for?
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-[Guard] Five years.
-Five years?
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You enjoy your job?
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[guard]
Hurry up and leave already.
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Okay.
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[narrator] If job satisfaction comes
from getting rid of people like us,
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he should be a happy man.
142
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But I still want to look
inside the forbidden zone,
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so I convince Yo to let me out
on the side of the road for a sneaky peek.
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[Yo] No more than five minutes
if possible.
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[Yo] Get ready.
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-[Yo] Okay, go.
-[tourist] Go, David.
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[Anya] Go, David.
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[tourist] Now.
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[geiger continuous beeping]
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00:08:54,083 --> 00:08:57,916
[narrator] The amusement arcade
has been left untouched since the 'quake.
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00:08:58,125 --> 00:09:02,708
[David] It's pretty eerie...
just seeing these toys just lying down,
152
00:09:04,666 --> 00:09:06,000
just kind of done.
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00:09:07,083 --> 00:09:09,958
[David] Let's try upstairs.
Let's try looking through...
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00:09:10,166 --> 00:09:12,000
[geiger continous beeping]
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[David] Wow!
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[David] This is totally wrecked.
157
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[geiger beeping]
158
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There's a lot of dust in here,
which is unsettling.
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[narrator]
Unsettling is an understatement.
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The objects and dust in here
are especially radioactive
161
00:09:27,125 --> 00:09:31,625
as rain and wind can't get in
to wash any radioactive particles away.
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[David] We've already been warned once,
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so I don't particularly want them
to see us in here.
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[geiger beeping]
165
00:09:43,041 --> 00:09:44,625
[David] Watch the glass, guys.
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00:09:46,166 --> 00:09:47,958
[narrator]
But we've pushed our luck too far.
167
00:09:49,166 --> 00:09:50,791
[David] We don't speak Japanese.
168
00:09:50,916 --> 00:09:53,208
[guards speaking]
169
00:09:53,291 --> 00:09:55,416
-[guard] Passport? ID?
-[David] In the bus.
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-[guards speaking]
-[narrator] We're sprung.
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But Yo comes to our rescue
and tries to smooth things over.
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00:10:01,750 --> 00:10:04,375
-[Yo] So what is going on here, sir?
-[guard] You are not allowed...
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00:10:04,458 --> 00:10:07,166
-[Yo] I understand we can't stop here.
-[guard] Yes, you got it, sir.
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00:10:07,250 --> 00:10:09,416
[geiger beeping]
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00:10:09,541 --> 00:10:13,041
[narrator] After what seems
like an eternity, and a stern warning,
176
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we are sent on our way,
but Yo's not happy with my excursion.
177
00:10:18,500 --> 00:10:21,500
[David] Is there a risk
of getting arrested, do you think?
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00:10:22,208 --> 00:10:24,791
Just now? We were lucky.
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00:10:25,666 --> 00:10:26,500
[Yo] I say.
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00:10:28,416 --> 00:10:29,291
[David] Okay.
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00:10:30,791 --> 00:10:32,583
-[David ]All right. Thanks, Yo.
-[Yo] Sure.
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00:10:34,833 --> 00:10:38,000
[narrator] I'm beginning to feel bad
that Yo had to bail us out.
183
00:10:38,625 --> 00:10:42,458
To be honest, this tour is
more stressful than I thought it would be.
184
00:10:46,416 --> 00:10:48,666
Lunch comes as a welcome break.
185
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We stop in Namie
at a cafe called Grandma's,
186
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which is run, unsurprisingly, by grandmas.
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-[waitress] Konnichiwa.
-[David] Arigato.
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[narrator] It's part of the government
initiative to lure people back into town.
189
00:11:03,208 --> 00:11:06,125
But when I find out that none
of the grandmas live here,
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00:11:06,291 --> 00:11:07,708
something doesn't sit right.
191
00:11:09,291 --> 00:11:11,291
[David] Who's eating?
Do we all want to eat?
192
00:11:11,583 --> 00:11:14,708
-What is the food, though? Where is--
-How safe is it?
193
00:11:15,250 --> 00:11:18,250
[narrator] I love Japanese food,
but like the others,
194
00:11:18,333 --> 00:11:21,666
I'm nervous about eating anything
that comes from around here.
195
00:11:21,750 --> 00:11:23,750
-Have you eaten here before, Yo?
-No.
196
00:11:23,833 --> 00:11:25,291
-First time.
-First time.
197
00:11:25,500 --> 00:11:32,291
[people speaking japanese]
198
00:11:32,458 --> 00:11:33,666
-[David] Yo?
-Yes?
199
00:11:33,875 --> 00:11:37,208
Is all this food from this area?
So it's all grown locally?
200
00:11:38,458 --> 00:11:40,208
-I have no idea, actually.
-[David] No idea?
201
00:11:40,791 --> 00:11:44,791
-It's difficult to know about everything?
-Well, I'm not going to worry about it.
202
00:11:44,875 --> 00:11:46,333
[Yo laughing]
203
00:11:46,458 --> 00:11:48,458
[narrator]
But we're starving and we give in.
204
00:11:49,166 --> 00:11:52,416
-[passengers talking]
-It may be radioactive but it's delicious.
205
00:11:52,541 --> 00:11:54,541
[passengers talking to each other]
206
00:11:54,666 --> 00:11:58,708
Yo, do you ever worry about anything?
It seems like you don't worry, ever.
207
00:11:59,375 --> 00:12:01,458
We have to live in this country.
208
00:12:02,250 --> 00:12:04,000
I have to live here day to day.
209
00:12:05,208 --> 00:12:11,125
And worrying about it too much is
really not good for your mental health.
210
00:12:11,208 --> 00:12:12,750
-[David ]Hm.
-[Yo] Yeap.
211
00:12:13,250 --> 00:12:14,708
Life is full of dangers.
212
00:12:16,000 --> 00:12:17,208
That's the thing, right?
213
00:12:17,291 --> 00:12:19,958
-You might get hit by a bus tomorrow.
-[Yo] That's right.
214
00:12:21,333 --> 00:12:22,166
[tourist] Ah!
215
00:12:22,416 --> 00:12:27,541
-[squeaking of balloons]
-[David] Ugh!
216
00:12:29,041 --> 00:12:31,458
[narrator] The government have even hired
street performers
217
00:12:31,541 --> 00:12:35,333
to attract people back to the area
and I'm quickly roped in to help.
218
00:12:36,041 --> 00:12:37,625
I have no idea what's going on.
219
00:12:37,750 --> 00:12:39,750
[David] Wow!
220
00:12:39,916 --> 00:12:44,833
[Street performer speaking Japanese]
221
00:12:45,375 --> 00:12:49,708
See? There's nothing to worry about here.
How can you worry when this is going on?
222
00:12:52,208 --> 00:12:53,583
-Does it suit me?
223
00:12:53,666 --> 00:12:55,291
[japanese woman laughing]
224
00:12:55,375 --> 00:12:56,833
Boink!
225
00:13:01,375 --> 00:13:03,916
[narrator]
After lunch, we hit the coast,
226
00:13:04,666 --> 00:13:07,666
to where the giant tsunami wave
first came ashore.
227
00:13:08,833 --> 00:13:13,291
This was once a landscape of little towns,
full of people,
228
00:13:15,041 --> 00:13:18,750
but all that has been wiped away
and is now a wasteland.
229
00:13:24,416 --> 00:13:27,500
So where are we now, Yo?
What's the situation here?
230
00:13:27,875 --> 00:13:31,291
This is the tsunami-inundated area.
231
00:13:31,583 --> 00:13:33,375
So this is where the tsunami swept across?
232
00:13:33,458 --> 00:13:35,333
[Yo] Tsunami stripped the whole town.
233
00:13:36,958 --> 00:13:40,166
[Yo] When the tsunami
overcame the sea wall,
234
00:13:40,541 --> 00:13:42,416
it was 15 meters high.
235
00:13:42,833 --> 00:13:47,666
[Yo] And about 260 people...
died in this area.
236
00:13:50,208 --> 00:13:54,416
[narrator] I can't comprehend
what a 15-meter wall of water looks like
237
00:13:54,916 --> 00:13:56,250
or where I'd run to.
238
00:13:58,833 --> 00:14:01,583
The people here would have had no chance.
239
00:14:08,000 --> 00:14:12,583
This is all that's left
of homes, shops, lives.
240
00:14:13,208 --> 00:14:15,583
Just reduced to rubble and ruin.
241
00:14:16,000 --> 00:14:17,958
[David] It's pretty surreal
242
00:14:18,083 --> 00:14:22,916
seeing just personal items
all just dumped, essentially, to rot.
243
00:14:25,166 --> 00:14:26,750
[David] It does bring it all home.
244
00:14:30,041 --> 00:14:34,416
[narrator] The only objects heavy enough
to stand their ground were gravestones,
245
00:14:36,333 --> 00:14:39,875
mute testament to all the people
who lived and died here.
246
00:14:43,541 --> 00:14:46,166
I find the place profoundly sad.
247
00:14:48,916 --> 00:14:51,375
But not everyone has the same reaction.
248
00:14:53,333 --> 00:14:55,333
[japanese speaking]
249
00:14:55,500 --> 00:14:56,708
[tourist] Okay, not even...
250
00:14:56,791 --> 00:14:59,250
[tourist] The radio reactor just exploded.
251
00:15:00,208 --> 00:15:03,625
-[tourist 1]Your face should explode, too.
-[tourist] I don't know what that means.
252
00:15:03,708 --> 00:15:06,083
[tourist 1 laughing] Be masculine!
253
00:15:10,708 --> 00:15:14,125
-[David] You got good photos in there?
-We have good selfie, I think.
254
00:15:15,208 --> 00:15:18,791
I could have pulled my second look,
but it's fine.
255
00:15:18,875 --> 00:15:21,083
-I can live without it.
-[tourist 1] Paris Fashion Week.
256
00:15:22,041 --> 00:15:25,708
We can laugh a little bit,
but I think it's pretty serious.
257
00:15:27,833 --> 00:15:30,208
-Do you?
-Yeah. No, I completely agree.
258
00:15:30,291 --> 00:15:34,166
It's a thing you kind of laugh
to cover up your nerves sometimes.
259
00:15:34,250 --> 00:15:35,083
[Anya] Yeah.
260
00:15:38,916 --> 00:15:43,541
[narrator] Earthquake, tsunami
and then, finally, radiation.
261
00:15:44,791 --> 00:15:48,791
A nuclear disaster is
the unwanted gift that keeps on giving.
262
00:15:50,833 --> 00:15:52,958
And here lies the motherlode.
263
00:15:54,708 --> 00:15:59,666
Under the green tarp, there's piles
of those flexible container bags.
264
00:16:00,875 --> 00:16:04,833
[Yo] They contain
the low-level radioactive soil
265
00:16:04,916 --> 00:16:06,708
or the plants.
266
00:16:08,333 --> 00:16:11,666
[narrator] The government scraped off
the radioactive topsoil
267
00:16:11,750 --> 00:16:13,583
and stored it, "temporarily".
268
00:16:14,333 --> 00:16:17,291
These dirt dumps are
all over the province.
269
00:16:17,625 --> 00:16:21,916
It seems unbelievable that there are
more than nine million bags of this stuff
270
00:16:22,000 --> 00:16:23,416
just lying around.
271
00:16:24,000 --> 00:16:26,791
I just wonder what the hell
they are going to do with it all.
272
00:16:26,875 --> 00:16:29,333
[Anya] So how long
can this concoction survive?
273
00:16:29,416 --> 00:16:30,625
-[Yo] Two to three years.
-Yeah.
274
00:16:30,708 --> 00:16:33,875
[Yo] As you can see, some black bags
are kind of deteriorating.
275
00:16:33,958 --> 00:16:37,625
[Anya] So they're probably covering it
to hide the fact that it's deteriorating.
276
00:16:37,708 --> 00:16:40,208
[Yo] That was probably so.
277
00:16:41,416 --> 00:16:44,000
[narrator] They were designed
to last three years,
278
00:16:44,291 --> 00:16:45,833
but that was six years ago.
279
00:16:46,458 --> 00:16:48,791
Their order and precision is beautiful
280
00:16:49,000 --> 00:16:51,958
and, dare I say it, a nice Instagram post,
281
00:16:52,833 --> 00:16:57,166
but that doesn't change the fact
that the radioactive soil is still here.
282
00:16:57,250 --> 00:16:58,083
[geiger beeping]
283
00:16:58,166 --> 00:17:00,916
I wouldn't want my adult children,
284
00:17:01,000 --> 00:17:05,125
who haven't had their families yet,
to come here. My daughters.
285
00:17:05,208 --> 00:17:07,541
'Cause there is that thing
about what sex you are.
286
00:17:07,625 --> 00:17:11,666
I feel like there's probably more danger
for females to come in than males.
287
00:17:11,750 --> 00:17:12,583
[tourist lady] Right.
288
00:17:12,750 --> 00:17:15,958
[geiger continuously beeping]
289
00:17:21,250 --> 00:17:22,333
[narrator] As we drive,
290
00:17:22,416 --> 00:17:25,833
the scale of this shit-show
starts to dawn on me.
291
00:17:28,000 --> 00:17:30,458
Town after town is like this.
292
00:17:34,583 --> 00:17:35,541
Wrecked...
293
00:17:36,125 --> 00:17:37,500
radioactive...
294
00:17:37,875 --> 00:17:38,875
abandoned.
295
00:17:39,750 --> 00:17:45,791
This point, this is designated as
"difficult to return to" zone.
296
00:17:46,250 --> 00:17:50,208
[Yo] That means you need to have
a special permit to go through this area.
297
00:17:50,791 --> 00:17:53,208
-[geiger beeping]
-[narrator] No one's really listening now.
298
00:17:53,291 --> 00:17:56,833
Instead, everyone is focused
on their Geiger counters.
299
00:17:57,333 --> 00:18:00,500
So what are you seeing here?
I'm going up to 1.43 now.
300
00:18:00,583 --> 00:18:01,666
-[geiger beeping]
-1,55.
301
00:18:01,750 --> 00:18:04,583
-1.89.
-What the hell! That's a lot.
302
00:18:05,125 --> 00:18:06,375
Yeah. It's going up.
303
00:18:07,125 --> 00:18:11,916
Yeah, I'm not sure if it is
higher than Chernobyl. Is it?
304
00:18:12,000 --> 00:18:13,708
[geiger beeping continuously]
305
00:18:13,791 --> 00:18:17,500
[Anya] Basically, I looked at Safecast
and it has the whole area's map.
306
00:18:17,875 --> 00:18:22,041
[Anya] And it was saying
the highest we'd get here is about 0.4.
307
00:18:22,791 --> 00:18:25,375
But this is four times the amount of that.
308
00:18:25,500 --> 00:18:26,375
[geiger beeping]
309
00:18:26,458 --> 00:18:29,833
So I'm actually very, very uncomfortable
with the situation.
310
00:18:29,916 --> 00:18:31,916
[geiger beeping continuously]
311
00:18:32,291 --> 00:18:34,166
-[geiger beeping]
-And I'm not sure this is safe.
312
00:18:34,541 --> 00:18:35,916
[geiger beeping]
313
00:18:36,000 --> 00:18:37,625
[narrator] I'm starting to worry as well.
314
00:18:39,416 --> 00:18:41,708
[David]
Is everyone happy to keep... going?
315
00:18:41,791 --> 00:18:45,125
If that was honestly the highest
it was going to be, then I'm fine,
316
00:18:45,208 --> 00:18:49,625
but, you know, I take this stuff
really seriously as well.
317
00:18:52,375 --> 00:18:55,000
[narrator] The truth is,
Anya's just said aloud
318
00:18:55,125 --> 00:18:57,375
what's going through everyone's minds.
319
00:18:57,625 --> 00:19:00,041
We're all paranoid about the radiation,
320
00:19:00,875 --> 00:19:05,208
especially as Yo told us
anything over 0.2 was unsafe.
321
00:19:07,250 --> 00:19:08,208
[David] Here we go.
322
00:19:08,583 --> 00:19:09,625
[David] 1.9.
323
00:19:10,125 --> 00:19:12,166
-[Anya] 2.3.
-2.8.
324
00:19:12,250 --> 00:19:14,541
[geiger beeping continuously]
325
00:19:14,666 --> 00:19:19,125
[narrator] The levels keep rising.
Everyone is seriously on edge.
326
00:19:19,208 --> 00:19:21,208
[geiger beeping]
327
00:19:21,291 --> 00:19:23,833
[narrator] No one was expecting
readings this high,
328
00:19:23,916 --> 00:19:25,416
not even our own crew.
329
00:19:26,500 --> 00:19:30,208
So what we just experienced
wasn't even the highest?
330
00:19:30,291 --> 00:19:31,125
No.
331
00:19:31,291 --> 00:19:34,708
-So that wasn't a hotspot?
-No. You know that.
332
00:19:34,791 --> 00:19:35,916
I'll stay on the bus!
333
00:19:36,500 --> 00:19:39,500
[narrator] Even the bus doesn't feel
like a shield any more,
334
00:19:39,583 --> 00:19:41,833
and the levels continue to get higher.
335
00:19:42,291 --> 00:19:44,833
-Oh, my God. 1.87.
-[Anya] Oh, my God!
336
00:19:44,916 --> 00:19:46,500
-[tourist lady] 3.75.
-Oh, my God.
337
00:19:46,583 --> 00:19:49,166
-[Anya] 7.19.
-[tourist lady] Oh, my God.
338
00:19:49,250 --> 00:19:53,666
[narrator] The readings are fifty times
over the 0.2 threshold.
339
00:19:54,458 --> 00:19:57,666
I don't want to stay another minute here,
and I'm not alone.
340
00:19:57,833 --> 00:19:59,625
-[Anya] I have 9.71 now.
-Scare point.
341
00:20:00,541 --> 00:20:02,583
-[tourist lady] All right.
-[tourist ]We are scared.
342
00:20:02,666 --> 00:20:05,083
-[Anya] We have officially been scared.
-[David] Yeah.
343
00:20:05,166 --> 00:20:06,666
-[Anya] Let's go.
-Let's do that.
344
00:20:06,750 --> 00:20:09,666
-[Anya] All in favor?
-[David] Okay, who wants to go?
345
00:20:09,916 --> 00:20:12,458
-[many tourists] I'd like to go.
-[Yo] Okay, let's go.
346
00:20:12,750 --> 00:20:15,041
[tourists talking]
347
00:20:15,166 --> 00:20:17,166
The driver just turned off the engine!
348
00:20:18,208 --> 00:20:20,916
It's just not the place to break down.
349
00:20:21,000 --> 00:20:21,833
[geiger beeping]
350
00:20:25,041 --> 00:20:28,750
[narrator]
By unanimous decision, this tour is over.
351
00:20:30,250 --> 00:20:35,125
They say it's safe to return to Fukushima,
and good luck to anyone that does,
352
00:20:35,708 --> 00:20:39,666
but this place is still
way too radioactive for my liking.
353
00:20:40,875 --> 00:20:43,958
It's been a real buzz
seeing a nuclear wasteland first hand,
354
00:20:44,458 --> 00:20:47,291
and I can see
why dark tourists get a thrill out of it,
355
00:20:47,833 --> 00:20:50,166
but one tour is enough for me.
356
00:20:51,916 --> 00:20:55,791
I want to get as far away
from the disaster zone as possible.
357
00:20:56,041 --> 00:21:00,291
My hotel isn't known
for its comfy beds or creature comforts,
358
00:21:00,583 --> 00:21:02,958
but follows the post-apocalyptic theme
359
00:21:03,041 --> 00:21:05,958
by offering a glimpse
into a strange, alternate future,
360
00:21:06,041 --> 00:21:09,208
a future run entirely by robots.
361
00:21:10,791 --> 00:21:13,833
It's probably at the odd end
of the dark tourist spectrum.
362
00:21:13,916 --> 00:21:15,083
[David] Hello.
363
00:21:15,166 --> 00:21:16,041
[machine sound]
364
00:21:16,125 --> 00:21:18,375
[robot] Please hold up your passport
to the reader
365
00:21:18,458 --> 00:21:21,000
or touch "no passport"
if you don't have one.
366
00:21:21,458 --> 00:21:24,625
[narrator] As a card-carrying member
of the Jurassic Park fan club,
367
00:21:24,833 --> 00:21:28,125
being served by a velociraptor
is pretty damn cool.
368
00:21:28,208 --> 00:21:30,958
[robot]
Please enjoy your stay in Henn na Hotel.
369
00:21:31,708 --> 00:21:32,541
[David] Thank you.
370
00:21:36,458 --> 00:21:38,916
[narrator] The hotel promises me
a highlight of my stay
371
00:21:39,000 --> 00:21:40,625
will be my own personal robot.
372
00:21:41,250 --> 00:21:43,916
[personal robot]
Relax and make yourself at home.
373
00:21:44,333 --> 00:21:45,166
Hello.
374
00:21:46,000 --> 00:21:49,083
[personal robot]
Oh. Hi, there. How do you do?
375
00:21:49,750 --> 00:21:50,833
Really good.
376
00:21:50,916 --> 00:21:52,458
[David] Can you sing a song?
377
00:21:53,583 --> 00:21:54,583
Just--
378
00:21:54,666 --> 00:21:56,750
[robot]
What time are you going to wake up?
379
00:21:58,833 --> 00:21:59,916
Seven a.m.
380
00:22:01,041 --> 00:22:04,083
But back to the original question,
can you sing a song?
381
00:22:05,041 --> 00:22:06,583
[robot]
Yes. May I help you?
382
00:22:06,666 --> 00:22:08,625
Yes. Can you sing a song?
383
00:22:09,125 --> 00:22:13,125
[robot] Tomorrow's set an alarm clock
at eight-thirty.
384
00:22:15,875 --> 00:22:18,500
[narrator] Things get even more bizarre
when I realize
385
00:22:18,583 --> 00:22:24,166
my robot hotel is set smack in the middle
of a replica 17th-century Dutch town.
386
00:22:25,458 --> 00:22:27,250
Yes, still in Japan.
387
00:22:29,083 --> 00:22:35,583
[dance music]
388
00:22:35,666 --> 00:22:37,833
[narrator]
It's definitely weird, and kind of fun,
389
00:22:37,916 --> 00:22:39,000
[music continous]
390
00:22:39,083 --> 00:22:40,833
[narrator]
but why is everyone wearing a mask?
391
00:22:40,916 --> 00:22:47,125
[dance music continous]
392
00:22:49,750 --> 00:22:52,291
[narrator]
It's a wonderfully twisted time warp.
393
00:22:54,375 --> 00:22:59,333
21st-century virtual reality
on a 17th-century carousel.
394
00:23:04,416 --> 00:23:07,541
I'm not sure if I'm meant to be
in the past or the future
395
00:23:07,625 --> 00:23:10,083
or perhaps just a parallel universe?
396
00:23:13,708 --> 00:23:15,541
[personal robot]
Turn the lights off.
397
00:23:16,250 --> 00:23:18,000
Is that a question or a statement?
398
00:23:18,500 --> 00:23:19,458
[machine sound]
399
00:23:19,541 --> 00:23:20,958
[robot]
May I help you?
400
00:23:25,208 --> 00:23:26,208
[David] Thank you.
401
00:23:27,041 --> 00:23:32,833
[robot singing lullaby]
402
00:23:39,041 --> 00:23:39,875
[David] Shut up.
403
00:23:42,708 --> 00:23:46,500
[narrator] I leave the robot hotel
and travel to my next destination.
404
00:23:46,666 --> 00:23:49,416
[wind blowing]
405
00:23:49,500 --> 00:23:53,833
[narrator] Jukai forest nestles on
the northwestern slopes of Mount Fuji.
406
00:23:54,291 --> 00:23:57,458
It's a stunningly beautiful
and primeval place,
407
00:23:59,166 --> 00:24:02,291
but the forest is also famous
for a darker reason.
408
00:24:03,250 --> 00:24:06,875
It's the world's most popular place
to commit suicide.
409
00:24:08,208 --> 00:24:11,625
Authorities find
over 100 bodies here a year.
410
00:24:16,166 --> 00:24:19,875
And while most people come here
for the postcard scenics and serenity,
411
00:24:20,208 --> 00:24:24,833
an increasing number of dark tourists
are drawn here by the body count.
412
00:24:25,916 --> 00:24:28,583
I want to see
what's so special about the forest
413
00:24:28,666 --> 00:24:31,791
and why tourists are drawn
to such a morbid place.
414
00:24:32,833 --> 00:24:38,666
I needed someone to show me around,
so I called again on the unflappable Yo.
415
00:24:39,083 --> 00:24:41,708
What I hear from the statistics
416
00:24:41,791 --> 00:24:48,166
is that Japan has one of the highest
suicide rates in industrialised nations.
417
00:24:48,916 --> 00:24:50,791
[David] Why do you think that is?
418
00:24:52,000 --> 00:24:56,958
I guess it's a lot of social pressure,
the obligations, and things like that.
419
00:24:57,625 --> 00:24:58,500
Honor, maybe.
420
00:24:59,125 --> 00:25:01,416
We've been thinking about people
drawn to places
421
00:25:01,500 --> 00:25:04,416
because they are a bit darker
that's why we're interested.
422
00:25:04,791 --> 00:25:09,625
Jukai was made famous for that...
because of a novel.
423
00:25:11,041 --> 00:25:14,583
[narrator] Yo says Jukai became
a popular suicide spot
424
00:25:14,666 --> 00:25:19,541
because of the popularity of a book
from the 1960s, The Black Sea of Trees,
425
00:25:20,208 --> 00:25:25,333
a sort of Japanese Romeo and Juliet,
and we all know how that ended.
426
00:25:27,750 --> 00:25:31,916
Immediately, I spot a lone car
in a corner of a car park.
427
00:25:32,500 --> 00:25:36,125
According to Yo, it's been sitting here,
abandoned, for weeks.
428
00:25:36,875 --> 00:25:39,166
Already my mind is jumping
to conclusions.
429
00:25:39,250 --> 00:25:41,083
So one car in the car park.
430
00:25:43,500 --> 00:25:46,208
[David] This could be someone
who's wandered in and hasn't come back.
431
00:25:46,958 --> 00:25:48,125
[Yo] Could be.
432
00:25:49,250 --> 00:25:52,250
-[Yo] And nothing to prove that.
-[David] No. Just don't know.
433
00:25:52,500 --> 00:25:55,083
It's surreal, though,
the idea of something being left here.
434
00:25:55,166 --> 00:25:59,333
[Yo] Yeah. Maybe he decided to leave...
somewhere else.
435
00:25:59,750 --> 00:26:02,291
[Yo] Maybe he's living happily
at someplace else.
436
00:26:04,333 --> 00:26:08,708
[narrator] Yo is keen to play down
the forest's association with suicide,
437
00:26:09,291 --> 00:26:11,291
but the signs suggest otherwise.
438
00:26:11,500 --> 00:26:16,666
"Your life is something
you received from your parents.
439
00:26:17,625 --> 00:26:22,250
Think again. Think about your parents,
your brothers. Think about your children.
440
00:26:22,708 --> 00:26:26,666
And don't take your problems
all to yourself."
441
00:26:27,625 --> 00:26:30,083
[narrator] I soon spot
some fellow dark travelers
442
00:26:30,166 --> 00:26:31,625
loitering in the car park.
443
00:26:32,125 --> 00:26:35,083
Are these pale foreigners here
for the same reason I am?
444
00:26:35,166 --> 00:26:39,041
We're here just looking into the whole
idea of this being a suicide forest.
445
00:26:39,125 --> 00:26:41,250
-Is that why you came?
-Yeah.
446
00:26:41,333 --> 00:26:42,958
Right. What had you heard about it?
447
00:26:43,041 --> 00:26:46,208
We heard on videos and YouTube
and whatnot
448
00:26:46,291 --> 00:26:49,958
that it's a place where a lot of people
come and contemplate suicide.
449
00:26:50,041 --> 00:26:52,791
An interesting place
to come and check out.
450
00:26:53,166 --> 00:26:55,333
What was the motivation?
That's why I came as well.
451
00:26:55,416 --> 00:26:59,500
I can't actually decide if I'm here
because I want to see like... a body
452
00:26:59,583 --> 00:27:03,791
or I'm just curious about the area.
I mean, what motivated you?
453
00:27:03,875 --> 00:27:07,541
I like the atmosphere.
It's a really sort of creepy,
454
00:27:07,625 --> 00:27:11,041
almost isolated vibe.
Then if we look into the forest,
455
00:27:11,125 --> 00:27:13,958
you can see the ropes
that people drag in with them.
456
00:27:14,041 --> 00:27:16,416
We didn't actually see any bodies.
457
00:27:16,500 --> 00:27:19,583
-This is my first time out of Ontario.
-[David] Seriously?
458
00:27:19,666 --> 00:27:23,625
[David] So first time out of Ontario,
straight to suicide forest.
459
00:27:23,708 --> 00:27:25,541
Yeah! Pretty much, yeah.
460
00:27:25,625 --> 00:27:28,250
No kidding. It sounds bad
when you say it that way.
461
00:27:28,333 --> 00:27:29,958
-[David] It does, doesn't it?
-Yeah!
462
00:27:32,750 --> 00:27:34,958
[narrator] I want to go for a walk
in the forest,
463
00:27:35,416 --> 00:27:37,666
but Yo has an unusual briefing.
464
00:27:37,750 --> 00:27:41,125
[Yo] So there are a couple of things
you need to know or you should know.
465
00:27:41,708 --> 00:27:44,333
There may be something...
466
00:27:44,958 --> 00:27:49,416
other than us lurking around,
looking at us right now.
467
00:27:50,375 --> 00:27:56,250
But it... can be seen
only with higher perception.
468
00:27:56,708 --> 00:27:59,833
[Yo] If you feel or see something,
469
00:28:01,000 --> 00:28:02,041
[Yo] don't freak out.
470
00:28:02,125 --> 00:28:04,125
[Yo] Okay? They're just curious.
471
00:28:05,291 --> 00:28:07,833
[narrator] Strangely,
Yo seems more worried
472
00:28:07,916 --> 00:28:09,625
about the spirits I might encounter
473
00:28:09,708 --> 00:28:11,500
than he did about the radiation.
474
00:28:12,083 --> 00:28:14,291
At least I could measure the radiation.
475
00:28:17,708 --> 00:28:20,458
This is truly a beautiful place, but it's deadly silent and empty.
476
00:28:25,458 --> 00:28:28,000
The forest is also incredibly dense.
477
00:28:28,083 --> 00:28:32,000
Stray off the path
and you could easily get lost in here.
478
00:28:32,375 --> 00:28:35,000
I'm nervous
about what I might stumble across.
479
00:28:35,125 --> 00:28:38,375
[crows croaking]
480
00:28:40,583 --> 00:28:45,208
[narrator] I've arranged to meet Jake,
an American expat who runs a nearby cafe.
481
00:28:45,791 --> 00:28:48,041
He says he found a corpse here
just last year.
482
00:28:48,500 --> 00:28:51,458
[Jake] It was a little pile of bones
483
00:28:52,208 --> 00:28:55,291
and a skirt, like a Japanese schoolgirl.
The blue uniform.
484
00:28:56,041 --> 00:28:57,458
It had been there a while.
485
00:28:58,208 --> 00:28:59,958
[Jake]
And my dog sensed something was up.
486
00:29:00,041 --> 00:29:02,500
[Jake] I don't know how she knew,
but I just followed her out.
487
00:29:02,583 --> 00:29:04,125
[David] Really lucky you had the dog.
488
00:29:04,333 --> 00:29:07,000
Yeah, you wouldn't want to get stuck
in here at night.
489
00:29:07,625 --> 00:29:09,708
[David]
'Cause that's the other danger here.
490
00:29:09,791 --> 00:29:11,958
[David] People come in here to explore...
491
00:29:12,333 --> 00:29:14,958
because they've heard about it
and then they end up...
492
00:29:15,041 --> 00:29:18,916
Yeah. When you see a body out here,
you've got to wonder if it was somebody
493
00:29:19,625 --> 00:29:21,208
who'd meant to kill themselves
494
00:29:21,708 --> 00:29:23,958
or changed their mind
and didn't make it out.
495
00:29:25,166 --> 00:29:28,833
[narrator] Jake believes he can find
some evidence of what goes on here,
496
00:29:29,375 --> 00:29:31,666
but then things take a funny turn.
497
00:29:33,625 --> 00:29:36,250
[Jake] You don't feel that?
You don't feel a little winded?
498
00:29:36,541 --> 00:29:39,375
[Jake] When you run
and you're just a little low on oxygen,
499
00:29:40,083 --> 00:29:42,083
[Jake]
your vision's just a little bit dark.
500
00:29:42,166 --> 00:29:46,000
-It's a bit of a spacey feeling almost.
-[Jake] Yeah, it's that, but I've had it,
501
00:29:46,625 --> 00:29:50,000
at times when it's...
really it's like tunnel vision.
502
00:29:50,333 --> 00:29:53,666
And... you can't quite focus on anything.
503
00:29:54,333 --> 00:29:57,458
I don't feel dizzy,
I don't have tunnel vision, like you have.
504
00:29:58,500 --> 00:30:00,833
That hit you pretty much immediately
when you got in here.
505
00:30:00,916 --> 00:30:02,208
It's really subtle.
506
00:30:02,291 --> 00:30:03,166
[David introspecting]
507
00:30:03,250 --> 00:30:07,666
It's not quite tunnel vision, but it's...
I think it's the magnetism.
508
00:30:08,250 --> 00:30:09,083
You know?
509
00:30:09,541 --> 00:30:12,500
[birds tweeting]
510
00:30:12,583 --> 00:30:14,833
But it's just enough.
That's what's dangerous about it.
511
00:30:14,916 --> 00:30:18,416
It's just enough that it's there,
but you don't really notice it.
512
00:30:18,500 --> 00:30:21,833
[Jake] That's how most people get
in trouble in the forest. There is a...
513
00:30:22,000 --> 00:30:23,458
[Jake] You think you're okay.
514
00:30:24,041 --> 00:30:25,916
-[David] But you're not.
-[Jake] Yeah.
515
00:30:26,625 --> 00:30:28,416
[narrator] I don't know what to think.
516
00:30:28,500 --> 00:30:32,708
Everyone seems to be telling me
about invisible forces and spirits.
517
00:30:33,333 --> 00:30:36,041
I'm starting to feel
like I'm missing something important.
518
00:30:41,750 --> 00:30:42,833
[Jake] Look at this.
519
00:30:42,916 --> 00:30:45,625
[narrator] And then Jake spots
what we've been searching for.
520
00:30:47,458 --> 00:30:49,458
[branches cracking]
521
00:30:49,625 --> 00:30:52,833
-[David] There's something on that tree.
-[Jake] That's not good.
522
00:30:53,708 --> 00:30:56,791
[crows croaking]
523
00:30:56,958 --> 00:30:59,708
[narrator] He says it's the remains
of a makeshift noose.
524
00:31:00,291 --> 00:31:02,291
[birds tweeting]
525
00:31:02,583 --> 00:31:04,958
[crows croaking]
526
00:31:05,083 --> 00:31:08,208
[narrator] Looking at the rope,
I'm glad it's all I've found.
527
00:31:08,291 --> 00:31:10,083
[Jake] In and out
without seeing any bodies,
528
00:31:10,166 --> 00:31:11,208
that's a good thing.
529
00:31:11,291 --> 00:31:13,500
[crows croaking]
530
00:31:13,625 --> 00:31:15,375
[narrator] I wonder
what would drive someone
531
00:31:15,458 --> 00:31:17,666
to end their life in this beautiful place?
532
00:31:19,500 --> 00:31:22,125
Yo suggests I meet his friend Noriko.
533
00:31:24,583 --> 00:31:26,583
She came here 30 years ago
534
00:31:26,666 --> 00:31:30,250
intending to kill herself
after a fight with her boyfriend.
535
00:31:34,500 --> 00:31:37,958
She wanted to take her life
in an isolated part of the forest
536
00:31:38,041 --> 00:31:39,583
by a small cave,
537
00:31:39,958 --> 00:31:42,958
hoping her boyfriend would feel sorry
when he saw the body.
538
00:31:43,750 --> 00:31:49,250
[Noriko] But as I started walking in,
I had another voice telling me to stop.
539
00:31:49,916 --> 00:31:52,458
A man was standing over there.
540
00:31:52,791 --> 00:31:55,791
[Noriko] Then I realized
that he wasn't human.
541
00:31:56,375 --> 00:31:57,583
So I ran away.
542
00:31:59,958 --> 00:32:03,916
[narrator] Noriko says she saw a ghost
who warned her not to take her life.
543
00:32:04,750 --> 00:32:08,291
She insists I go through a ritual
to ward off any bad spirits or Yūrei as they're called here,
that might still be lurking.
544
00:32:12,791 --> 00:32:17,208
I don't know that I believe in any of it,
but I agree to go along anyway.
545
00:32:17,291 --> 00:32:19,958
[Yo] You've got to pinch the salt
using three fingers.
546
00:32:20,041 --> 00:32:22,833
-[Noriko] No.
-[Yo] Eat it first.
547
00:32:24,125 --> 00:32:26,375
-[Noriko speaking]
-[Yo] Take a swig, all the way.
548
00:32:26,500 --> 00:32:29,000
-[Noriko speaking]
-[Yo] Don't let your hand drop.
549
00:32:29,291 --> 00:32:30,875
-[Yo] Drink.
-[Noriko speaking]
550
00:32:33,166 --> 00:32:35,875
[Noriko] Okay.
551
00:32:36,333 --> 00:32:38,500
[narrator] I'm keen to go further
into the forest, but Noriko starts acting strange.
552
00:32:41,666 --> 00:32:44,958
[Noriko laughing]
553
00:32:45,041 --> 00:32:46,000
[Noriko sighs]
554
00:32:46,125 --> 00:32:48,166
[David] We can turn around if you want to.
555
00:32:48,958 --> 00:32:50,708
[David] We can turn around if you need to.
556
00:32:50,875 --> 00:32:52,875
[Noriko mumbling]
557
00:32:53,000 --> 00:32:54,416
Is she okay? Just tired?
558
00:32:54,875 --> 00:32:56,083
Tired, no.
559
00:32:56,666 --> 00:32:58,791
[Noriko speaking indistinctly]
560
00:32:58,875 --> 00:33:01,125
-[Noriko in pain]
-[David] Where are you sore? In here?
561
00:33:01,250 --> 00:33:04,833
[narrator] Noriko says the invisible Yūrei
are attacking her.
562
00:33:05,000 --> 00:33:07,333
I feel awkward
and don't quite know what to do.
563
00:33:07,875 --> 00:33:08,791
[Noriko sighs]
564
00:33:08,875 --> 00:33:09,708
Thank you.
565
00:33:09,791 --> 00:33:11,333
-[David] No good?
-No, thank you.
566
00:33:11,416 --> 00:33:13,208
Good. Thank you.
567
00:33:13,708 --> 00:33:17,125
-[David] Was it the energy down there?
-Something's happening down there
568
00:33:17,208 --> 00:33:18,958
that's affecting her this way.
569
00:33:19,458 --> 00:33:24,041
And those are things
that we wouldn't feel, but you do?
570
00:33:24,291 --> 00:33:27,083
They are here. They are here.
571
00:33:27,166 --> 00:33:29,166
[Yo speaking japanese]
572
00:33:29,625 --> 00:33:32,000
Even if I drink the salt,
they still come for me.
573
00:33:32,500 --> 00:33:35,666
[Noriko] How should I describe it?
574
00:33:35,791 --> 00:33:40,291
It is as if they are trying to take me.
575
00:33:41,041 --> 00:33:44,708
Am I safe being here? I've had the salt,
but am I okay being here?
576
00:33:45,166 --> 00:33:47,916
Yes, no problem. Everyone is fine.
577
00:33:48,416 --> 00:33:51,958
Everyone except me.
578
00:33:53,083 --> 00:33:54,875
[birds tweeting]
579
00:33:54,958 --> 00:33:56,958
That's the Jukai.
580
00:33:57,791 --> 00:34:00,416
[birds tweeting]
581
00:34:04,833 --> 00:34:06,541
[narrator] I don't believe in ghosts,
582
00:34:06,625 --> 00:34:09,916
but everyone here seems to genuinely
feel their presence.
583
00:34:10,833 --> 00:34:12,000
I'm not going to argue.
584
00:34:13,083 --> 00:34:16,125
If Noriko's beliefs stopped her
from taking her own life,
585
00:34:16,208 --> 00:34:17,541
then that's a good thing.
586
00:34:18,166 --> 00:34:22,083
And after seeing the forest for myself,
and meeting Noriko,
587
00:34:22,708 --> 00:34:26,458
I've decided there's nothing romantic
about looking for dead bodies
588
00:34:26,541 --> 00:34:28,166
or the idea of suicide.
589
00:34:29,166 --> 00:34:31,875
I don't think Jukai is haunted or cursed,
590
00:34:32,208 --> 00:34:35,125
but the forest certainly does
live up to its reputation
591
00:34:35,208 --> 00:34:37,625
as a strange and eerie place to visit.
592
00:34:42,666 --> 00:34:45,250
I travel a thousand kilometers west.
593
00:34:45,416 --> 00:34:49,416
My final destination is a short boat ride
off the coast of Nagasaki.
594
00:34:49,958 --> 00:34:51,666
It's the ultimate ghost town.
595
00:34:52,250 --> 00:34:56,958
[sound of sea hitting the shore]
596
00:35:00,333 --> 00:35:01,416
[David] Oh, wow.
597
00:35:05,333 --> 00:35:08,708
[David] You can see the whole structure
going down to the water.
598
00:35:11,375 --> 00:35:12,666
[David] It's unreal.
599
00:35:15,375 --> 00:35:18,916
[narrator] Abandoned places
are like magnets for dark tourists,
600
00:35:19,000 --> 00:35:23,291
especially if they are as haunting
and spectacular as Hashima Island.
601
00:35:26,958 --> 00:35:30,958
Hashima is also called Battleship Island
because of its distinctive shape.
602
00:35:32,375 --> 00:35:37,458
Sixty years ago, this was the most
densely-populated place on the planet.
603
00:35:43,000 --> 00:35:45,541
Five and a half thousand people
lived here,
604
00:35:45,791 --> 00:35:49,250
crammed into an area
the size of a few football fields.
605
00:35:49,916 --> 00:35:54,375
Now it's completely empty.
I want to know what happened.
606
00:36:03,250 --> 00:36:06,458
I arranged to meet two former residents
to find out.
607
00:36:06,541 --> 00:36:07,875
[David] Hi, nice to meet you.
608
00:36:08,416 --> 00:36:10,791
-[Ishikawa-san] Hi.
-[Kenoshita-san] Nice to meet you.
609
00:36:11,208 --> 00:36:15,041
[narrator] Ishikawa-san and Kenoshita-san
lived here in its heyday.
610
00:36:15,750 --> 00:36:19,666
They offer me special access
to the crumbling buildings on the island.
611
00:36:19,750 --> 00:36:21,875
[David] So do you know exactly
where we're going?
612
00:36:21,958 --> 00:36:23,708
[Kenoshita speaking japanese]
613
00:36:23,791 --> 00:36:25,750
[Ishikawa] We're going up
to the ninth floor now.
614
00:36:25,833 --> 00:36:27,333
[David] All right. A lot of walking!
615
00:36:28,333 --> 00:36:30,625
[David] Well, I'm game if you are.
616
00:36:31,291 --> 00:36:33,708
[narrator]
There were no elevators in this place.
617
00:36:33,791 --> 00:36:38,791
I wonder what it was like walking up
and down nine floors several times a day.
618
00:36:39,083 --> 00:36:41,000
And the ceilings are very low.
619
00:36:41,375 --> 00:36:43,125
[Ishikawa] Watch your head there.
620
00:36:43,916 --> 00:36:45,541
-[David] All right.
-[Ishikawa] So wet.
621
00:36:46,125 --> 00:36:48,458
[narrator]
It looks like everyone left in a hurry.
622
00:36:48,541 --> 00:36:49,958
There's stuff everywhere.
623
00:36:50,041 --> 00:36:51,500
[David] It's a real mess.
624
00:36:52,416 --> 00:36:56,250
This is my room, my house.
625
00:36:56,541 --> 00:36:58,958
-[noise of ruins cracking]
-[David sighs]
626
00:36:59,041 --> 00:37:00,250
[noise of ruins cracking]
627
00:37:00,458 --> 00:37:02,875
[David] Where are we standing now?
It's so small.
628
00:37:02,958 --> 00:37:04,750
[David] How many of you lived in here?
629
00:37:05,083 --> 00:37:07,500
My family and I, the six of us lived here.
630
00:37:09,208 --> 00:37:11,208
It was very crowded.
631
00:37:12,500 --> 00:37:17,541
We used to sleep in the closet,
right here.
632
00:37:18,916 --> 00:37:21,041
[David] Was it a place
that people wanted to live?
633
00:37:21,125 --> 00:37:23,791
Out here? Was it somewhere
quite exciting to be?
634
00:37:24,291 --> 00:37:26,583
[Ishikawa] For us,
this is where we were born.
635
00:37:26,666 --> 00:37:29,166
It was the norm for us
and I didn't know anywhere else.
636
00:37:30,083 --> 00:37:33,000
[narrator] In fact, Hashima was the first
of its kind.
637
00:37:33,708 --> 00:37:36,125
Japan's first concrete apartment complex.
638
00:37:36,333 --> 00:37:39,541
And it offered a better standard of living
compared to the rest of the country.
639
00:37:40,708 --> 00:37:46,916
There were shops, sports facilities,
a public swimming pool and a school.
640
00:37:50,125 --> 00:37:53,750
Hashima is here because there's
a coal mine underneath the island.
641
00:37:54,000 --> 00:37:55,875
They built the town right on top.
642
00:37:58,000 --> 00:38:02,208
The men say the mine became uneconomic
in the late 1970s
643
00:38:02,291 --> 00:38:04,500
and everyone left in the space of a week.
644
00:38:08,500 --> 00:38:12,708
-[Ishikawa] This is where we played a lot.
-[Kenoshita laughing]
645
00:38:13,000 --> 00:38:15,666
[narrator] They take me
to the highest point on the island,
646
00:38:15,750 --> 00:38:17,791
to a Shinto temple they used to visit.
647
00:38:18,666 --> 00:38:19,750
[Ishikawa] Ah!
648
00:38:21,625 --> 00:38:24,458
Fifty years.
649
00:38:25,250 --> 00:38:28,583
I haven't been up to this temple
for 50 years.
650
00:38:31,000 --> 00:38:33,250
Very nostalgic.
I thought it would be larger.
651
00:38:34,375 --> 00:38:38,375
[narrator] It's inspiring up here
and I feel moved to join in.
652
00:38:38,458 --> 00:38:40,625
-[Ishikawa] There's nothing here!
-[Kenoshita laughing]
653
00:38:40,708 --> 00:38:43,666
This brings back memories.
654
00:38:43,916 --> 00:38:46,500
-[ japanese laughing ]
-[David] What is the clap?
655
00:38:46,583 --> 00:38:50,500
[translator] It's two bows, two claps,
and then... another bow.
656
00:38:50,708 --> 00:38:52,875
-Okay, so two bows...
-[translator] Two.
657
00:38:53,166 --> 00:38:55,916
-...two claps and then another bow.
-[Ishikawa] Okay.
658
00:38:56,000 --> 00:38:56,833
[Japanese laughing]
659
00:38:58,333 --> 00:39:02,583
[David] This is amazing.
You can see the whole place from up here.
660
00:39:03,541 --> 00:39:04,541
It's incredible.
661
00:39:05,875 --> 00:39:11,458
[sound of sea hitting the shore]
662
00:39:15,250 --> 00:39:17,750
[narrator] This island is absolutely epic.
663
00:39:19,458 --> 00:39:22,583
It's haunting to be in a place
that was once home to so many,
664
00:39:23,083 --> 00:39:25,291
but is now completely desolate.
665
00:39:26,541 --> 00:39:30,125
All that remains are memories
and ghosts of the past.
666
00:39:40,125 --> 00:39:46,833
[sound of plane taking off]
667
00:39:47,375 --> 00:39:50,333
[narrator] On this trip,
I've flirted with radiation,
668
00:39:50,625 --> 00:39:52,750
desolation and death.
669
00:39:53,750 --> 00:39:57,791
I've been forced out of my comfort zone
and had my beliefs challenged.
670
00:39:58,875 --> 00:40:02,375
And somehow it's made me feel
even more happy to be alive.