>>> IT’S HARD TO BELIEVE THAT JUST A FEW MONTHS AGO THE FIRST
WAVE OF COVID‐19 HAD EMPTIED THE STREETS OF NAPLES AND ITALY WAS
IN LOCKDOWN. THANKFULLY, I’VE ARRIVED DURING
A BRIEF MOMENT OF NORMALITY. RESTAURANTS ARE OPEN AND MASKS
ARE NOT REQUIRED OUTSIDE. AND WE’LL BE STICKING TO THE
LOCAL RULES. NAPOLI IS A TRULY THRILLING
CITY. THE SECOND YOU ARRIVE YOU’RE
ENGULFED BY A MAGNIFICENT CHAOS. AND THERE’S NO POINT IN FIGHTING
IT. PEOPLE HERE DO THINGS THEIR OWN
WAY. TAKE THE ENERGY OF NEW YORK, MIX
IN THE GRITTY ELEGANCE OF NEW ORLEANS, ADD 3,000 YEARS OF
HISTORY, AND COOK IT ALL UP IN THE HEAT OF THE WORLD’S MOST
FAMOUS VOLCANO. THAT IS NAPOLI.
I’M STANLEY TUCCI. I’M ITALIAN ON BOTH SIDES AND
I’M TRAVELING ACROSS ITALY TO DISCOVER HOW THE FOOD IN EACH OF
THIS COUNTRY’S 20 REGIONS IS AS UNIQUE AS THE PEOPLE AND THEIR
PAST. >> IN THE SOUTH WE ARE VERY USED
TO ‐‐ >> THIS PLACE MAY BE LOOKED DOWN
ON. BUT THE PEOPLE WHO LIVE IN THIS
REGION HAVE THEIR OWN WAY OF DOING THINGS.
>> FOR ME THIS IS OUR PHILOSOPHY.
THIS IS OUR TRADITION. >> THEY’VE GIVEN THE WORLD ITS
FAVORITE FOOD. JUST DON’T FORGET WHERE IT WAS
INVENTED
. IF PIZZA WAS GOING TO BE BORN
ANYWHERE, IT WOULD BE HERE IN NAPLES.
THE CITY IS HOT, FAST, AND A FEAST FOR THE SENSES.
NAPE GOES IS THE UNOFFICIAL CAPITAL OF THE ITALIAN SOUTH AND
IS EVEN OLDER THAN ROME. IT’S A REGION OF VOLCANIC
LANDSCAPES, MAGICAL ISLANDS, AND THE WORLD FAMOUS COAST.
THE SOUTHERN SUN NURTURES TOMATOES THAT ARE THE ENVY OF
THE WORLD. OUT IN THE HILLS, BUFFALO
PRODUCE THE MILK FOR THE FINEST MOZZARELLA.
BUT PIZZA WASN’T BORN IN THE LUSH HILLS.
IT CAME FROM THE DARKEST, POOREST STREETS OF NAPLES.
AND ITS STORY COMBINES TWO OF ITALY’S FAVORITE SUBJECTS ‐‐
FOOD AND DEATH. >> ITALY’S HISTORIC VOLCANO
EXPLODES INTO THE MOST FEARSOME AND DEVASTATING ERUPTION.
AT LEAST ONCE IN EVERY CENTURY. >> THE VOLCANO IS SORT OF AN
EVER PRESENT THREAT ISN’T IT? >> IT IS.
BECAUSE IT IS ON THE LANDSCAPE. YOU ALWAYS WATCH IT.
YOU ALWAYS HAVE IT IN YOUR MIND AND IN YOUR EYES.
>> THIS PROFESSOR IS ONE OF THE 3 MILLION RESIDENTS WHO LIVE IN
THE SHADOW OF THE MIGHTY VOLCANO.
>> PEOPLE ARE OBSESSED BY THE POSSIBILITY OF DYING BECAUSE
THERE IS A VOLCANO, BECAUSE THERE ARE EARTHQUAKES.
>> YES. >> THERE ARE EPIDEMICS.
>> YES. >> SO IT IS VERY HARD FOR THEM.
>> LIFE CAN BE TOUGH IN THIS VOLATILE CITY.
IT’S NO WONDER EVERYWHERE YOU GO IN NAPLES YOU SEE HAND MADE
SHRINES, KEEPING A LIGHT SHINING FOR LOVED ONES WHO HAVE DIED.
THIS IS ALL OVER THE CITY YOU SEE THIS.
>> YES. THEY ARE INCLUDED IN THE
ARCHITECTURE OF THE CITY. YOU KNOW, THESE ARE KIND OF
TEMPLES OF MEMORY. >> RIGHT.
>> YOU REMEMBER THE PEOPLE OF YOUR FAMILY OR YOUR FRIENDS
ESPECIALLY YOUNG PEOPLE WHO DIED.
>> COMING FROM A SOUTHERN ITALIAN FAMILY, DEATH WAS ALWAYS
TALKED ABOUT. I REMEMBER MY GRANDMOTHER USED
TO CALL MY MOTHER. MY MOTHER WOULD PICK UP THE
PHONE AND SHE’D SAY ‐‐ >> YOU KNOW WHO DIED?
>> EXACTLY! THAT’S WHAT IT WAS.
>> MY GRANDMA DID THE SAME. IT WAS ALSO A WAY FOR FEELING
ALIVE. >> ELIZABETTA IS SHOWING ME THE
HISTORIC PART OF THE CITY. FOR HUNDREDS OF YEARS THE
POOREST PEOPLE OF NAPLES WERE PACKED INTO THESE NARROW
STREETS. TERRIBLE SANITATION MEANT YOUR
LIFE COULD BE SNATCHED FROM YOU AT ANY MOMENT BY THE BRUTAL
EPIDEMIC OF THEIR AGE ‐‐ CHOLERA.
>> PEOPLE REALLY GOT SCARED. >> RIGHT.
>> BECAUSE IT WAS AN EPIDEMIC LIKE MORE OR LESS THE COVID‐19
VIRUS. >> YES.
>> SO YOU COULD TRANSMIT IT VERY EASILY.
>> RIGHT, RIGHT. >> CHOLERA WAS SPREAD BY WATER
AND BY FOOD. SO PEOPLE HERE COOKED PIECES OF
BREAD IN HOT OIL. SO THE FRYING IS SIMPLER.
>> IT’S SIMPLER. IT’S EASY.
YOU CAN GET A VERY GOOD POINT OF HYGIENE BECAUSE FRYING REALLY
STERILIZES EVERYTHING. >> IT WAS PROBABLY ONE OF THE
FEW TIMES IN LIFE THAT FRYING SOMETHING MIGHT ACTUALLY HAVE
BEEN HEALTHY FOR YOU. >> SO THIS IS WHERE WE’RE GOING
TO GET FRIED PIZZA? ALL RIGHT.
[ SPEAKING IN OTHER LANGUAGE ] >> OKAY.
PIZZA,
RICOTTA. >> YOU KNOW, SINCE A CENTURY HER
FAMILY IS DOING THIS. >> FOR A CENTURY.
>> THESE STREETS WERE ONCE FULL
OF PLACES LIKE THIS. BUT FERNANDA IS NOW THE LAST OF
AN HISTORIC LINEAGE. >> IT ALL PUFFS UP.
DOESN’T IT? >> IT’S BEAUTIFUL.
ALL RIGHT. THAN
K YOU. READY?
FERNANDA ‐‐ [ SPEAKING IN ITALIAN ]
>> THIS DELICIOUS POCKET OF HISTORY WAS PIZZA BEFORE PIZZA
WAS PIZZA. WITH THE PORK AND THE RICOTTA.
>> IT IS VERY TASTY. >> AS WE WALK OFF SOME OF THOSE
CALORIES, ELIZABETTA TELLS ME HOW PIZZA WAS BORN IN THESE
STREETS FROM QUITE UNPROMISING BEGINNINGS.
>> MOSTLY THEY WERE SELLING BREAD WITH A LITTLE BIT OF FAT
ON IT, SOMETIMES PEPPER, BECAUSE PEOPLE WERE REALLY POOR.
THEN AT A CERTAIN POINT, PEOPLE HERE INVENTED PIZZA.
BUT FOR MANY YEARS IT WAS JUST A KNEE
NEO POLITAN DISH. >> CHOLERA PLAYED SUCH A ROLE.
>> FOR CENTURIES. >> THANKFULLY FOR US BY THE LATE
19th CENTURY THE ITALIAN PREJUDICE AGAINST NAPLES AND ITS
FOOD BEGAN TO CHANGE AND WE ARE GOING TO THE PLACE WHERE
ACCORDING TO LEGEND IN 1889 THE ITALIAN QUEEN ORDERED A PIZZA
THAT WENT ON TO BEAR HER NAME, THE MARGARITA.
DO YOU MAKE PIZZA AT HOME EVER? >> IN NAPLES IT IS ALMOST
FORBIDDEN. >> NO POINT.
>> THE ONLY PROBLEM WAS DURING LOCKDOWN ALL THE PIZZERIAS WERE
CLOSED. THAT WAS REALLY BAD.
THE FIRST DAY AFTER THE LOCKDOWN, 60,000 PIZZAS WERE
MADE, THE SAME DAY. >> REALLY.
>> YES. THEY WERE NOT SUFFICIENT BECAUSE
EVERYBODY WANTED A PIZZA. >> THEY WERE SO DESPERATE.
>> FIRST THE PIZZA AND THEN THE VACCINE.
>> IN THE STREETS OF NAPLES PIZZA GREW OUT OF ONE PANDEMIC
AND SUSTAINED THE CITY THROUGH ANOTHER.
WHAT WAS BORN IN A PLACE CONSUMED BY DEATH, IS NOW A FOOD
THE ENTIRE
TREE IN THIS CITY OF PIZZA MAKERS THERE IS A MAN WHOSE
REPUTATION TOWERS OVER THE TOWN LIKE VESUVIUS.
HE WROTE THE GLOBALLY RECOGNIZED STANDARDS ON MAKING THE BEST
NEOPOLITAN PIZZA IN THE WORLD AND WAS THE FIRST EVER TO BE
RECOGNIZED BY THE MICHELIN GUIDE.
THE ONLY THING HE LOVES MORE THAN PIZZA IS NAPLES, ITSELF.
[ SPEAKING IN ITALIAN ] BEFORE HE MAKES ME A PIZZA THE
MAESTRO NEEDS TO GO SHOPPING. WHEN YOU’RE HERE, WHO NEEDS A
STORE WHEN YOU CAN GO STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE?
BUFFALO WERE BROUGHT TO WORK THE SOUTHERN ITALIAN LAND BY ARAB
CONQUERORS ALMOST A THOUSAND YEARS AGO.
AND EARLY EACH MORNING, THEIR MILK IS TURNED INTO THE FINEST
MOZZARELLA. THIS MASKED MAN IS ACKNOWLEDGED
AS ONE OF THE GREATEST CHEESE MAKERS IN ITALY.
ONCE THIS MORNING’S COLLECTION OF BUFFALO MILK IS HEATED, HE
SEPARATES OUT THE CURDS AND THE WHEY.
THE CURDS ARE CHOPPED AND BOILING WATER IS ADDED.
THE RESULT IS INCREDIBLE. >> IT’S LIKE HE’S A MAGICIAN.
YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN? >> IN ITALIAN, THE WORD MEANS TO
CUT OFF. THIS ANCIENT PROCESS GIVES THE
CHEESE ITS NAME. >> MOZZARELLA.
>> THE MOZZARELLA THEN RESTS IN A SALT BATH FOR A FEW HOURS.
UNLIKE OTHER CHEESES, WHICH GET BETTER WITH AGE, MOZZARELLA IS
BEST EATEN FRESH. WHICH IS GREAT NEWS FOR ME.
>> OH, MY GOD. >> SO IF YOU’RE GOING TO MAKE
THE GREATEST PIZZA IN NAPLES, ONCE YOU HAVE THE BEST
MOZZARELLA YOU NEED THE PERFECT TOMATO.
THERE IS A PLACE WHOSE NAME IS WHISPERED IN AWE BY PIZZA FANS
EVERYWHERE FROM BROOKLYN TO BANGKOK AND ENZO IS TAKING ME
THERE. AS A PIZZA LOVER, I ONLY EVER
BUY CANS OF SAN MARZANO TOMATOES AND NOW I’M HEADING TO THE
PROMISED LAND ALTHOUGH I HADN’T QUITE EXPECTED IT TO BE A SMALL
FARM UNDER A FREEWAY. WE’RE MEETING ENZO’S SPECIAL
SUPPLIER, UNCLE VINCENZO. BEHIND HIS RUSTY GATES I AM
REMINDED HERE IN ITALY TREASURES ARE TO BE FOUND IN THE MOST
UNLIKELY LOCATIONS
.
>> I’VE EVEN SAN MARZANO TOMATOES ALL AROUND THE WORLD,
BUT THE BRIGHT, BALANCED FLAVOR OF THESE IS LIKE NOTHING I’VE
EVER TASTED.
>> YEAH, I KNOW. IMPOSSIBLE.
>> VARIETY IS ‐‐ VARIETIES USING THE SAN MARZANO NAME ARE
EVERYWHERE FROM NEW JERSEY TO NEW ZEALAND BUT ONLY THE
TOMATOES HERE ARE FED BY THE NUTRIENT RICH SOIL BY OUR OLD
FRIEND LOOMING ON THE HORIZON.
>> AFTER OUR LITTLE SHOPPING TRIP, WE’RE BACK IN THE CITY
AND, FINALLY, FINALLY THE MAESTRO IS MAKING A PIZZA FOR
ME. MASS PRODUCED PIZZA BRANDS
ALWAYS ADD SUGAR, FAT, AND FLAVORING.
BUT IN NAPOLI IT’S JUST WATER, FLOUR, SALT, YEAST, AND LOT OF
SKILL. THE CRUSHED SAN MARZANOS FROM
UNCLE VINCENZO GO ON FIRST. NEXT THE CREAMY NUGGETS OF
MOZZARELLA TO COUNTERACT THE SWEET SHARPNESS OF THE TOMATOES.
AND A FINAL FLOURISH. TO ADD SALTNESS AND FRAGRANCE.
AND THEN IN A MATTER OF MOMENTS, FOOD MAGIC HAPPENS.
>> OH, MY GOD. YUM, THAT’S DELICIOUS.
PERFECT. PERFECT.
PIZZA MAKING IS ONE TRADITION WE ALL HOPE WILL NEVER DIE OUT AND
THAT NAPLES WILL ALWAYS KEEP THE FLAME OF PURE, SIMPLE PERFECTION
BURNING.
>> SO THIS ISN’T WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE.
LET ME EXPLAIN. IN THIS CITY IT SOMETIMES SEEMS
LIKE EVERYONE IS MAKING UP THEIR OWN RULES BUT SOMEHOW THE PLACE
HANGS TOGETHER. I’M MEETING THE MAN WHO TRIES TO
KEEP SOME ORDER HERE, CHIEF OF THE MUNSICIPAL POLICE.
IN TRUE NEOPOLITAN STYLE HE WANTS TO EXPLAIN HOW IT WORKS
OVER A COFFEE. THE CAPTAIN ORDERS THREE COFFEES
FOR THE TWO OF US. I FIGURE HE JUST REALLY LIKES
COFFEE. BUT PAYING FOR ONE EXTRA IS
ACTUALLY A HUGELY IMPORTANT TRADITION HERE IN NAPLES.
IT’S CALLED SUSPENDED COFFEE. WHEN A PERSON IN NEED SHOWS UP
THE COFFEE SELLER GIVES THEM A FREE DRINK THAT THEIR FELLOW
CITIZEN PAID FOR EARLIER. >> CHEERS.
THAT’S NICE. >> THE PEOPLE OF NAPLES HAVE
UNOFFICIAL WAYS OF HELPING EACH OTHER OUT THAT GO BACK
CENTURIES. THEY SUSPEND ESSENTIALS LIKE
COFFEE, FOOD, AND EVEN TOYS FOR FAMILIES THAT CAN’T AFFORD THEM.
CAMPANIA IS THE SECOND POOREST REGION IN ITALY, AND COMMUNITY
HELP IS THE ONLY SAFETY NET SOME PEOPLE HAVE.
WHEN THAT FAILS THE POWERFUL MAFIA IS ONLY TOO READY TO SWOOP
IN.
>> POVERTY AND CRIME HAS ALWAYS BEEN PART OF LIFE IN THE CITY.
BUT IN THE 1960s AN EXPERIMENT TO IMPROVE THINGS WENT BADLY
WRONG. FIVE MILES FROM THE CITY CENTER,
A NEW WORLD WAS BUILT. IT WAS CALLED SCAMPIA.
THE POOREST NEOPOLITANS WERE MOVED OUT OF THE DARK SLUMS INTO
FUTURISTIC NEW HOMES, BUT THE DREAM QUICKLY TURNED INTO A
NIGHTMARE. THE PLACE HAD NEITHER JOBS NOR
TRANSPORT, AND PEOPLE HERE WERE TRAPPED.
CAMORRA CRIME GANGS STEPPED IN WHERE THE STATE HAD FAILED.
DRUGS WERE SOLD ON THE STREETS AND THINGS GOT SO BAD EVEN THE
POLICE STAYED AWAY. ORDINARY RESIDENTS WERE CAUGHT
IN THE MIDDLE. MORE RECENTLY A NEW CHAPTER IN
THE NEIGHBORHOOD’S HISTORY BEGAN WHEN HUNDREDS OF NOMADIC
TRAVELERS ARRIVED. >> STANLEY.
>> SAMANTHA. >> THEY CAME FROM EASTERN EUROPE
AND SET UP CAMP UNDER A FREEWAY HERE.
THEY SOUGHT A BETTER LIFE IN ITALY AND HAVE MADE THEIR HOME
HERE DESPITE NO ACCESS TO RUNNING WATER OR ELECTRICITY
. ALL ACROSS THIS NEIGHBORHOOD
THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE LIKE SAMANTHA SAW THEIR LIVES GOING
TO WASTE, UNFAIRLY LABELED AS CRIMINALS WHILE THE AUTHORITIES
TURNED THEIR BACKS. STILL, THIS IS NAPOLI AND PEOPLE
LOOK OUT FOR EACH OTHER IN THE MOST CREATIVE WAYS.
>> SO THE KITCHEN WAS A VERY POWERFUL INSTRUMENT TO OVERCOME
STEREOTYPES BUT ALSO CREATE WORK.
>> RIGHT. >> WE DECIDED TO MAKE A SMALLER
REVOLUTION THROUGH THE KITCHEN. >> IN A HUT ON THE EDGE OF
SCAMPIA LOCAL ACTIVIST EMMA AND HER FRIENDS REALIZED THEY HAD A
POWERFUL COMMUNITY, EACH WITH UNIQUE FOOD TRADITIONS, AND
DECIDED TO TAKE MATTERS INTO THEIR OWN HANDS.
>> IN THE SOUTH WE ARE VERY USED TO FIGHT WITH OR WITHOUT THE
INSTITUTION. THIS IS A VERY SOUTH ITALIAN
QUALITY. >> THE SMALL IDEA GREW INTO
SOMETHING ASTONISHING. THE HUT IS LONG GONE.
IT IS NOW A RESTAURANT AND CATERING COMPANY CALLED CHIKU
BASED IN A LARGE, DISUSED BUILDING HERE.
SAMANTHA, WHOM I MET OVER AT THE ROMANI CAMP, GOT A JOB AS A COOK
HERE. HER RECIPES PROVED SO POPULAR
THEY NOW STAR ON THE MENU.
CUSTOMERS NOW COME TO SCAM PIA FROM ACROSS THE CITY TO TASTE
THE DELICIOUS COMBINATION OF FOOD THEY CREATE HERE.
THIS PLACE RECEIVES NO GOVERNMENT HELP, BUT THE SUCCESS
OF THE SOCIAL ENTERPRISE ALLOWS THEM TO ALSO OFFER CHILD CARE
AND EDUCATION TO ALL THE RESIDENTS OF SCAMPIA.
THIS NEIGHBORHOOD STILL HAS HUGE PROBLEMS, BUT IN THE FACE OF
UNIMAGINABLE BLEAKNESS, THE VOLUNTEERS AT CHIKU HAVE OPENED
UP A SPACE TO MIX FOOD WITH TALENT.
DELICIOUS. DELICIOUS.
AND CREATE HOPE. THIS IS JUST THE MOST WONDERFUL
EXPERIMENT, BUT REALITY NOW, WHICH IS THAT YOU’VE TAKEN TWO
CULTURES AND BROUGHT THEM TOGETHER WITH A FRYING PAN
>>> THE GREATEST JOY OF TRAVELING IS SOMETIMES YOU
DISCOVER A PLACE BY CHANCE AND IT WINDS UP STAYING WITH YOU FOR
THE REST OF YOUR LIFE. 14 YEARS AGO MY LATE WIFE KATE
AND I TOOK A FERRY FROM NAPLES TO THE ISLAND JUST AN HOUR AWAY.
ONE NIGHT WE WENT TO A FAMILY RUN RESTAURANT WHERE THEY SERVED
FOOD WE NEVER EXPECTED TO HAVE ON AN ISLAND IN THE GULF OF
NAPLES. I TRIED TO COME BACK WHENEVER
I’M LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE THE CHANCE.
AND THE FAMILY’S ELDEST, SYLVIA, IS MEETING ME AT THE DOCK.
>> WELCOME. >> NICE TO SEE YOU.
>> YES. NOW WE START THE ADVENTURE.
ARE YOU READY? >> I’M READY.
>> NOW, YOU MAY WELL BE THINKING, TIME FOR A BEAUTIFUL
DRIVE ALONG THE COAST FOR SOME TASTY SEAFOOD.
BUT NO. THIS RESTAURANT STANDS DEFIANTLY
AWAY FROM THE SEA SIDE CROWDS. THROUGH THE WOODS AND HALF WAY
UP A MOUNTAIN. THIS IS ONE OF A HANDFUL OF
VOLCANIC ISLANDS JUST OFF OF NAPLES.
TOURISTS STARTED COMING HERE IN THE ’60s TO ENJOY THE THERMAL
WATERS. BUT BEFORE THAT IT WAS PIRATES
AND FOREIGN ARMIES WASHING UP ON THE SHORE.
SO ISLAND FAMILIES CHOSE TO LIVE UP IN THE SAFETY OF THE
MOUNTAINS. INSTEAD OF CATCHING FISH, THEY
CAUGHT RABBIT. THE PLACE IS OVERRUN WITH THEM.
THIS IS FAMOUS ACROSS ITALY. IN THE STATES WE RARELY EAT
RABBIT BUT THE DELICIOUS, LEAN MEAT DRAWS THE CROWDS UP HERE TO
THIS SECLUDED RESTAURANT. BUT BEFORE WE CAN EAT IT ‐‐ DO
YOU WANT ME TO OPEN THIS? >> YES, PLEASE.
>> WE HAVE TO CATCH IT. ABOVE THE RESTAURANT, WILD
RABBITS ARE CAUGHT WITH AN INGENIOUS AND SUSTAINABLE METHOD
THE ISLANDERS HAVE BEEN USING FOR CENTURIES.
A PIT IS DUG CLOSE TO THE RABBIT HOLE AND TASTY FOOD IS THROWN
DOWN TO TEMPT THEM OUT. FRAGRANT LEAVES AND BERRIES ARE
SPECIALLY SELECTED TO ADD FLAVOR TO THE RABBIT’S MEAT.
>> THE TASTE COMES THROUGH INTO THE MEAT.
>> THEN ALL YOU’VE GOT TO DO IS HOP IN, CATCH ONE, AND I’LL
SPARE YOU THE REST. SYLVIA’S LITTLE BROTHER
AUGUSTINO RUNS THE KITCHEN. HE’S BRILLIANT AT BRINGING OUT
THE BEST FLAVORS FROM THE WILD GAME HERE.
HE’S WORKED AT SOME OF THE FINEST RESTAURANTS IN NEW YORK
AND LONDON. BUT HE CAME HOME TO APPLY HIS
SKILLS TO TRADITIONAL, RUSTINC COOKING.
THE LAST TIME I SAW HIM I RAN INTO HIM ON THE STREETS OF NEW
YORK. HE WAS IN A BAD WAY.
I’M KIDDING. THAT WAS A LONG TIME AGO NOW.
>> YES, YES. >> BUT I LOVE RABBIT.
I COOK IT AT HOME A LOT. THE THING ABOUT RABBIT ‐‐
>> NO, NO. THIS RABBIT IS WILD.
OKAY. WE PUT OLIVE OIL.
GARLIC. OKAY.
>> THE JUICE. I LIKE THAT YOU PUT THE GARLIC
IN AS A WHOLE. >> YEAH.
NOW WHITE WINE. >> AH.
BEAUTIFUL. >> IT’S VERY SIMPLE.
TOMATO, HERBS, GARLIC, WHITE WINE, OLIVE OIL.
>> KNOWING HOW TO MAKE THE BEST OF WHAT YOU HAVE IS VITAL UP
HERE. WHILE THE RABBIT COOKS, I NOTICE
SOMETHING I’VE NEVER SEEN BEFORE.
THE NONA OF THE FAMILY, LORETTA, IS SHOWING HER GRANDCHILDREN HOW
TO TIE TOMATOES TO LOCAL VINES
. TODAY THE RESTAURANT IS CLOSED,
BUT I’M HONORED TO BE INVITED TO FAMILY LUNCH.
THIS IS THE FIRST TIME THE FAMILY HAS COME TOGETHER SINCE
THEIR FATHER PASSED AWAY EARLIER THIS YEAR DURING THE LOCKDOWN.
IT’S AN EMOTIONAL TIME, BUT ALSO ONE OF CELEBRATION.
OH, MY GOD! AS DELICIOUS AS THE FOOD IS,
TRADITIONAL COOKING LIKE THIS ALSO TELLS YOU THE STORY OF A
PLACE ‐‐ HOW THEY LIVED AND WHAT WAS IMPORTANT TO THEM.
FOR AS LONG AS ANYONE CAN REMEMBER, THERE’S BEEN A STRICT
HIERARCHY TO HOW ISCHIA’S RABBIT IS SERVED.
>> WELL YOU’RE VERY KIND. THANK YOU.
>> SADLY, IN THIS TRADITIONAL HIERARCHY, THE MOTHER OF THE
FATHER IS LEFT WITH THE BONY NECK AND SKULL.
TRADITIONAL FOOD LIKE THIS CONNECTS US AND MAKES US PART OF
A BIGGER STORY. THAT’S WHY, EVEN TODAY, FAMILIES
ACROSS ISCHIA SIT DOWN EVERY SUNDAY TO ENJOY A RABBIT AND A
POT TOGETHER
>>> AS IF THE AWE INSPIRING MAJESTY OF THE VESUVIUS AND
VOLCANIC ISLANDS ARE NOT ENOUGH, CAMPANIA HAS ONE FINAL CROWNING
GLORY. JUST A HALF HOUR OUTSIDE OF
NAPLES SOME OF THE MOST FABLED LANDSCAPE ON EARTH BEGINS.
IT IS THE BACKDROP FOR A THOUSAND ROMANTIC MOVIES AND
ONCE IN A LIFETIME VACATIONS. AND HOME TO A RESTAURANT WHERE I
HAD A SIMPLE ZUCCINI AND PASTA DISH THAT HONESTLY CHANGED MY
LIFE. I’VE BEEN LONGING TO COME BACK.
THE FAMILY HAD AGREED TO SHOW ME HOW IT’S DONE.
MY WIFE HAS COME TO JOIN ME. AND WE ARE IN ONE OF THE MOST
BEAUTIFUL PLACES IN THE WORLD. WHAT COULD POSSIBLY GO WRONG?
OKAY. SO THERE IS THIS ONCE IN A
DECADE STORM FORECAST AND EVERYONE IS TAKING SHELTER.
THAT DOESN’T STOP THE MORNING DELIVERY COMING DOWN FROM THE
FAMILY’S FARM UP IN THE HILLS. EVERY MORSEL GROWN BY THE
FATHER. PRIDE OF PLACE THIS SEASON IS
THE STAR OF MY FAVORITE DISH. ZUCCINI.
THE FIRST TIME I HAD THIS DISH I INSINUATED MYSELF INTO THE
KITCHEN TO WEEDLE OUT THE RECIPE FROM HIS DAUGHTER ANTONIA WHO
RUNS THE PLACE. WE NOW MAKE IT AT HOME EVERY
WEEK BUT IT IS NEVER AS GOOD. THE CHEF IS GIVING ME A MASTER
CLASS. MY WIFE FELICITY HAS EVEN FLOWN
IN TO MAKE SURE WE GET IT RIGHT. >> WE CAME HERE TWO YEARS AGO.
THIS IS THE REASON WE’RE IN THIS RESTAURANT.
>> WE HAVE PLAED IT EVERY DAY SINCE.
>> BASICALLY, PRACTICALLY EVERY DAY.
>> IT’S A FAVORITE. AMAZING.
>> WE LOVE THIS DISH. >> EVERYBODY ALWAYS THINKS THERE
IS GARLIC IN IT OR ONION. JUST THE SWEETNESS OF THE
ZUCCINI >> I KNOW.
WAIT. HE PUT IT IN.
>> WE MISSED IT. WE ARE SO UNPROFESSIONAL.
>> THE CHOPPED ZUCCINI ARE FRIED IN SUN FLOWER OIL AND THAT’S OUR
FIRST MISTAKE. WE NEED ABOUT THREE GALLONS MORE
THAN WE’VE BEEN USING AT HOME. >> IT IS FRUSTRATING TO SEE HIM
DO IT LIKE THIS WITH SUCH EASE WHEN WE HAVE BEEN LABORIOUSLY
FRYING THEM IN A SMALL VESSEL. >> HOURS.
LITERALLY HOURS U. >> ONCE FRIED, TOMASO LEAVES IT
OVERNIGHT TO SOFTEN UP. >> I FEEL LIKE WE’VE BEEN DOING
A LOT WRONG. >> WE’VE BEEN DOING IT ALL
WRONG. >> TOMASO HEATS UP THE ZUCCINI.
>> LOOK AT THAT AMAZING ‐‐ >> THAT’S BEAUTIFUL.
>> FINALLY, A WHOLE INGREDIENT THEY DIDN’T EVEN TELL US ABOUT.
>> BUTTER. I ASKED YOUR SISTER TWO YEARS
AGO. I SAID, DO THEY PUT BUTTER?
WHERE IS ANTONIA? >> YES, A LITTLE BIT OF BUTTER.
>> YOU DIDN’T TELL ME THAT. I’M SO UPSET.
NO, NO! I WON’T HOLD IT AGAINST YOU.
>> OH, MY GOD. LOOK AT THAT.
>> OKAY. MAYBE IT WASN’T DELIBERATE BUT
THEN WHY WOULDN’T YOU WANT TO KEEP A RECIPE THIS GOOD TO
YOURSELF? >> PEOPLE COME FROM ALL AROUND
THE WORLD JUST FOR THAT. >> FOR THAT.
THAT’S CRAZY. >> THIS IS TOO EXCITING.
>> AMAZING. >> OH, MY GOD.
LOOK AT THAT. >> 20 MINUTES OF ECSTASY.
>> EVEN BETTER THAN I REMEMBER. SUCH A SIMPLE DISH.
YOU MAKE IT SO BEAUTIFULLY. IT’S JUST ONE OF THE BEST THINGS
I’VE EVER HAD IN MY LIFE. >> THANK YOU SO MUCH.
>> ANTONIA, THANK YOU SO MUCH. THANK YOU.
LOOK AT THE WIND. >> THE SEA IS ALMOST BLACK AS
WELL. >> WE’LL JUST BE INSIDE EATING.
>> ANY OTHER DAY, THE SUN‐DRENCHED SPOT IS BUZZING
WITH DINERS THRILLED TO BE EATING IN ONE OF THE MOST
BEAUTIFUL PLACES ON EARTH. BUT AS THE STORM CLOUDS ROLL IN
FOR THE FIRST TIME THIS YEAR, EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THE EXPECTED
300 CUSTOMERS TODAY HAS CANCELED.
BY EVENING, FELICITY, THE FILM CREW, AND I ARE THE ONLY GUESTS.
RATHER THAN ALLOW ALL THIS INCREDIBLE FOOD TO GO TO WASTE,
THEY’RE MAKING A FEAST FOR ALL THE BRAVE SOULS STILL HERE.
WHILE THE KITCHEN TEAM .
WHILE THE TEAM WORKS SERENE ANY, THE FILM CREW HELPED ME CAPTURE
SOME VIEWS OF THE FAMOUS AMALFI COAST YOU WON’T NORMALLY SEE ON
A POSTCARD. >> ISN’T IT SO GORGEOUS?
>> A TAIL THE SIZEHAIL THE SIZE LEMONS JUST CAME DOWN.
HOLY ‐‐ YOU KNOW, I’VE HAD DREAMS ABOUT HAVING THIS PLACE
ALL TO MYSELF, BEING BROUGHT PLATTERS OF BEANS, MUSHROOMS AND
OLIVES FROM THE FAMILY FARM, FRIED SQUID, DUKE SCENE ANY
FLOWERS BUT I DIDN’T EXPECT IT TO BE IN QUITE THESE
CIRCUMSTANCES. HERE NATURE CAN BE CRUEL, BUT IT
ALSO CAN BE VERY KIND INDEED
♪ >>> THE STORM HAS PASSED.
THE NATURAL ORDER HAS BEEN RESTORED, AND IT’S ANOTHER
HEAVENLY DAY HERE ON THE AMALFI COAST.
I’VE TRAVELED ALONG TO THE LITTLE TOWN OF VENURI, KNOWN FOR
ONE OF THE MOST BELOVED DESSERTS IN ITALY, A BLAST OF SOUTHERN
SUNSHINE IN A CREAMY LIGHT CAKE. IT’S CALLED DELICE A LEMLEMONI.
AND TO MAKE IT, YOU HAVE TO HEAD FOR THE HILLS.
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] >> UP IN THE LEMON GROVES ABOVE
MINORI, I’M MEETING THE MAN WHO INTRODUCED THE UNIQUE AMALFIE
LEMONS TO THE DESSERT, AND GAME ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS PASTRY
CHEFS IN ITALY, SAL.
>> THESE LUCKY LEMONS ARE AN ANCIENT HYBRID OF BITTER AND
SWEET CITRUS FRUITS, AND THE LOCALS PUT THEM IN EVERYTHING
THEY CAN. >> CHEERS.
GRAZIE.
>> WE HEAD DOWN TO SAL’S SHOP ON THE SHORE, WHERE EVERY YEAR
THOUSANDS OF TOURISTS TAKE A BREAK FROM THE NATURAL WONDERS
OF THE COAST TO GASP AT SOME MAN MADE CULINARY MARVELS.
AT A TIME WHEN ITALIAN DESSERTS WERE DOMINATED BY NORTHERN AND
FRENCH CREATIONS, SAL PUT THE SOUTH OF ITALY FIRMLY ON THE MAP
BY CAPTURING THE ESSENCE OF THIS PLACE IN ONE PARTICULAR CAKE,
LEMON DELIGHT. SO WE KNOW WHERE THE LEMONS COME
FROM, BUT HOW DO YOU GET THE DELIGHT?
>> JESUS, ALL RIGHT. OF COURSE, CREAM.
THREE CREAMS, IN FACT. AND FOR GOOD MEASURE, YOU FILL
THE CAKE WITH CREAM. YOU TAKE IT RIGHT IN.
>> SI. >> AND WHEN THE CREAMS ARE
MIXED? YOU ADD MORE CREAM AND MORE
CREAM. >> WHOA.
>> AND MORE CREAM. A SPLASH OF LEMON LIQUEUR.
>> OH MY GOD. BUT HOW DOES HE GET THAT
DELICATE, SMOOTH COATING? NO.
REALLY? I THOUGHT YOU WERE GOING TO DO
SOMETHING INCREDIBLY ELEGANT. A LITTLE SWIRL OF CREAM TO
FINISH AND A PINCH OF AMALFIE LEMON ZEST.
>> OKAY. OKAY.
IT’S OKAY, OKAY, OKAY. >> OKAY.
>> AND I LOVE LEMON. I LOVE LEMON, BUT THAT’S LIKE ‐‐
LIKE ‐‐ ♪ >> WELL, WE’VE HAD COFFEE AND
NOW DESSERT. SO WHAT BETTER WAY TO END MY
JOURNEY TO CAMPANA WITH A GLASS OF LOCAL LIMONCELLO, MADE WITH
AMALFIE LEMONS, OF COURSE. >> OKAY.
>> I’M SURE THAT MOST OF US HAVE
HAD A SHOT OR THREE OF THIS WITH FRIENDS.
PROBABLY AFTER GORGING ON CAMPAGNA’S OTHER GREAT
CONTRIBUTION TO THE WORLD, PIZZA.
WHEREVER WE ARE, THE FOOD OF THIS PLACE CAN’T HELP BUT BRING
US TOGETHER. >> CHEERS.