>>> VERY EXCITING TO BE BACK IN ROME AGAIN.
AT EVERY TURN THERE’S SOMETHING OF HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE.
LOOK AT THAT. IT’S LITERALLY LIKE YOU’RE
LIVING INSIDE A MUSEUM. EVEN IF YOU’VE NEVER BEEN TO
ROME, YOU’VE BEEN TO ROME. ITS STORIES HAVE BEEN TOLD AND
RETOLD ON STAGE AND SCREEN. THE CITY OF TOGAS AND
GLADIATORS, POWER AND INTRIGUE, EMPIRE AND RUIN.
AND OF COURSE LA DOLCE, VITA, THE GOOD LIFE.
I’M STANLEY TUCCI, ITALIAN ON BOTH SIDES AND I’M TRAVELING
ACROSS ITALY TO DISCOVER HOW THE FOOD IN THIS COUNTRY’S 20
REGIONS ARE AS UNIQUE AS THEIR PAST.
THE FAMOUS ANCIENTS OF ROME ONCE RULED THE WORLD.
BUT I’M HERE TO DISCOVER HOW IT’S THE FOOD OF ORDINARY ROMANS
THAT HAS CONQUERED OUR HEARTS. BUT I’M GOING TO WARN YOU.
IF YOU’RE ON A LOW CARB DIET, BEWARE.
YOU’RE GOING TO SEE A LOT OF PASTA IN THIS SHOW.
I MEAN LIKE A LOT OF IT, A LOT. ♪
>> I’VE BEEN VISITING ROME FOR DECADES.
ITS BEAUTY AND HISTORY STILL LEAVE MY BREATHLESS, BUT
SOMETIMES IT’S DIFFICULT TO FIND A GOOD MEAL IF YOU DON’T KNOW
WHERE TO LOOK. ROME IS SITUATED IN A REGION
SOMETIMES OVERLOOKED IN FAVOR OF ITS GRANDER GASTRONOMIC
NEIGHBORS LIKE TUSCANY AND UBRIA.
BUT LAZIO HAS FED ROME FOR CENTURIES AND EVERY PART OF THE
SHEEP AND PIGS RAISED HERE IS PUT TO USE IN KITCHENS ACROSS
THE CITY TO MAKE DEEPLY FLAVORSOME FOOD.
TO START MY JOURNEY I’M CATCHING UP WITH MY OLD FRIEND CLAUDIA.
SHE’S LIVED HER VIRTUALLY HER WHOLE LIFE.
AND HER CARDINAL RULE FOR GOOD FOOD IS WHEN IN ROME EAT AS THE
ROMANS DO. >> ARE YOU OKAY?
>> I’M SO HAPPY TO SEE YOU. >> IT WAS A LONG TIME.
SOMEHOW ALMOST 30 YEARS HAS
SLIPPED BY SINCE WE FIRST BECAME FRIENDS WHEN WE WORKED ON A
MOVIE HERE TOGETHER. >> I THINK THAT YOU CAME LAST
TIME ‐‐ >> THE VERY FIRST TIME WAS LIKE
’95. >> NO, I THINK ’93 BECAUSE IT
WAS ‐‐ >> I DIDN’T KNOW I WAS THAT OLD.
>> I KNOW, ME NEITHER. LET’S NOT MENTION IT.
>> CLAUDIA, WANTS TO TAKE ME FOR A CLASSIC ROMAN PASTA LUNCH, BUT
WITH AN HOUR TO KILL WE DECIDE TO GET A COFFEE AND REMINISCE.
>> IT’S A REAL INSTITUTION. >> BUT THAT’S WHERE WE WENT A
LONG TIME AGO. >> YEAH, YEAH.
WE WERE THERE EVERY EVENING YOU KNOW?
>> BACK IN THE ’90s WE USED TO HANG OUT IN A GREAT CAFE IN A
GRIMY PART OF TOWN VERY MUCH ON THE WRONG SIDE OF THE RIVER.
AND HERE WE ARE. AND I WAS PLEASED TO HEAR IT’S
STILL GOING STRONG. >> YOU REMEMBER?
>> YES, I DO. I DO.
>> WHAT’S THERE? THE PICTURE YOU GAVE THEM IN
’93. IT IS EXACTLY IN THE SAME PLACE.
I THINK NOTHING CHANGED IN THIS PLACE.
>> NO, IT HASN’T CHANGED. A LITTLE ESPRESSO WOULD BE JUST
ENOUGH TO WHET OUR APPETITES BEFORE WE GO TO LUNCH.
OR SO I THOUGHT. >> I KNOW, I KNOW.
>> WHAT’S THAT? WHO’S JOINING US?
THESE ARE ROMAN BREAKFAST WITH A 2,000‐YEAR‐OLD ROMAN HISTORY.
IN THE MIDDLE AGES THEY WERE ONE OF IT FEW THINGS THE CHURCH
ALLOWED YOU TO EAT DURING LENT. IT DOESN’T SEEM VERY SAINTLY TO
ME. IS IT LIKE A BRIOCHE?
>> IT’S FRIED, A SORT OF DOUGHNUT WITH EGG CREAM.
THE ITALIANS DON’T EAT BREAKFAST LIKE THE AMERICANS OR THE DUTCH
EAT BREAKFAST BECAUSE THEY DON’T EAT EGGS.
IT’S ALWAYS SOMETHING SWEET.
NICE TO SEE YOU AGAIN. CIAO.
AS WE STAGGERED OFF OUR BREAKFAST AND HEADED THROUGH I
NOTICED THE AREA WAS MUCH BUSIER AND HIPPER THAN YEARS AGO.
>> THIS WAS THE POOR QUARTERS. YOU SEE THE BUILDINGS AS NICE AS
THEY ARE ARE VERY SMALL. >> RIGHT.
>> AND THEN, OF COURSE, AS IT HAPPENS, YOU KNOW, THE OLD
QUARTERS GOT VERY TRENDY AND EVERYBODY WANTED TO LIVE HERE.
>> AND THEY BECOME MORE JENTRIFIED.
THE CITY MAY BE CHANGING BUT ONE THING AS CONSTANT AS THE ANCIENT
LANDMARKS IS HOW MUCH PEOPLE IN ROME LOVE THEIR PASTA.
FOUR‐STAR DISHES IN PARTICULAR HAVE BECOME AN EMBLEM OF THE
CITY. AND CLAUDIA IS TAKING ME TO FIND
OUT MORE AT A PLACE SHE SAYS THE IS PANTHEON OF PASTA.
THE RESTAURANT IS FULLY BOOKED. >> BUT WE DON’T CARE.
TELL ME SOME MORE ABOUT PASTA IN ROME.
>> PASTA IN ROME IS LIKE YOU EAT IT EVERY DAY.
I MEAN, YOU DON’T LIVE WITHOUT PASTA.
AND EVERYBODY HAS ITS OWN RECIPE, AND OF COURSE IT’S THE
BEST EVER AND YOURS IS NOTHING COMPARED TO MINE.
>> IT’S TRUE. IT DOES BECOME VERY TERRITORIAL,
DOESN’T IT? >> YEAH.
>> ROMANS REVERE WHAT THEY CALL THE FOUR PASTAS.
>> NICE TO SEE YOU. THANK YOU FOR HAVING ME.
SIMPLE BUT ICONIC DISHES OF STAGGERING DELICIOUSNESS.
THERE ARE CREAMY PASTA MADE WITH MAINLY SHEEP CHEESE AND PEPPER.
ADDED PORK, ITS LUXURIOUS COUSIN WHICH IS ELEVATED WITH EGG YOLKS
AND THIS ROMAN FAVORITE. THEY’RE A BASE FOR A LOT OF
DISHES IN ROME
. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
>> VERY GOOD. >> PASTA IS DELICIOUS.
DELICIOUS. THE SAUCE IS ACTUALLY QUITE
LIGHT, WHICH IS NICE. AND REALLY DELICATE.
>> NO, NO. I KEPT A PLACE IN MY STOMACH FOR
THIS. >> BECAUSE WE DIDN’T EAT THE ‐‐
ACROSS THE CITY EVERY SINGLE DAY ROMANS EAT PASTA THAT HAS
ANCIENT BONDS TO THEIR SURROUNDING COUNTRYSIDE.
IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE BUT THIS ICONIC FOOD WA
>>> SITTING AT THE BIG, WARM CARBOHYDRATE LOADED HEART OF
ITALIAN CUISINE IS PASTA. AND FITTINGLY FOR THE NATION’S
CAPITAL ROME IS OBSESSED WITH THIS STUFF.
I’VE BEEN PROMISED THE BEST CARBONARA IN THE CITY.
AND I’VE BEEN TOLD TO COME TO THE WORKING CLASS BACK STREETS
AND ASK FOR THE DOM. TELL ME WHAT YOU DO.
>> FOR A TIME I MAKE A SHOW WHERE I PLAY VINYL DISK BUT AT
THE SAME TIME I COOK PASTA. >> HE’S A CHEF, HISTORIAN AND
DEEJAY WHO COOKS ITALIAN FOOD. IT’S REALLY GREAT.
DOM PASTA HAS PROMISED ME THE GREATEST DISH I’VE EVER TASTED
AND ON THE WAY HE TELLS ME WHY PASTA MATTERS SO MUCH TO HIM.
>> I REALIZE ITALIAN FOOD IS POPULAR FOOD.
ITALIAN FOOD IS RETICENT OF THE NORMAL PEOPLE OR WORKING CLASS
PEOPLE THAT EAT WELL BECAUSE THE WORKING CLASS PEOPLE CREATE THE
ROOTS OF THE ITALIAN FOOD. >> YES.
TODAY WE MAY THINK AS A BOWL OF PASTA AS THE ULTIMATE COMFORT
FOOD BUT THERE’S A DISTINCTIVELY UNCOMFORTABLE HISTORY OF
ITALIANS FIGHTING OPPRESSION THROUGH PASTA.
IN THE EARLY 1930s MUSSOLINI AND HIS FASCISTS IMPOSED IMPORT BANS
ON VARIOUS FOREIGN GOODS. THIS LED TO FOOD SHORTAGES,
MALNUTRITION AND A LACK OF WHEAT, WHICH RAISED THE PROSPECT
OF ITALIAN TABLES WITH NO PASTA. IN TYPICAL STYLE RATHER THAN
LIFTING THE IMPORT BANS MUSSOLINI TRIED TO CONVINCE
ITALIANS THAT EATING PASTA WOULD MAKE THEM WEAK, LAZY AND EVEN
SEXUALLY IMPOTENT AND THAT A HIGH PROTEIN DIET WOULD MAKE
THEM MORE PRODUCTIVE AND WAR‐LIKE.
THE CAMPAIGN WAS CLEARLY NOT A SUCCESS.
>> WHEN THE FASCISTS ARRIVED A BIG PART WAS MUS LEANY BUT 30%,
40% IS AGAINST MUSSOLINI. >> IN FACT, PASTA ACTUALLY
BECAME A POWERFUL SYMBOL OF THE RESISTANCE AGAINST HIS FASCIST
REGIME. ARMED WITH THEIR GUNS AND SHEETS
OF PASTA MANY OF THE PARTISANS WHO STOOD UP TO MUSSOLINI LIVED
IN THESE VERY STREETS. >> AND THE GREAT AXIS RAIL YARDS
FROM WHICH TROOPS AND SUPPLIES ARE FORWARDED TO SOUTHERN
ITALY ‐‐ >> DURING WORLD WAR II THIS AREA
BORE THE BRUNT OF ALLIED BOMBINGS THAT AIMED TO DISRUPT
THE NEARBY RAIL HUB. TRAGICALLY OVER 1,000 PEOPLE
WERE KILLED. THIS IS IN ESSENCE LIKE A
MONUMENT. >> YEAH.
YOU CAN SEE THE EFFECTS OF THE WAR.
PEOPLE DEAD, THE FAMILY DEAD. AND ALL THIS AREA IS BOMBED.
>> THIS PARTICULAR SQUARE WAS HOME TO A HUGELY POPULAR
LOCAL ‐‐ BEFORE THE WAR. THE OWNERS WIFE AND ALL BUT ONE
OF THEIR CHILDREN DIED WHEN THE BUILDING WAS HIT DURING THE
BOMBING. AFTER THE WAR THE LOCAL
COMMUNITY RAISED FUNDS FOR THE SURVIVING FATHER AND SON TO
REOPEN THE RESTAURANT AGAIN. THE BOYS STARTED WORK HERE AGED
JUST 8. AND AMAZINGLY HE’S STILL HERE
TODAY. >> IT’S THE STORY OF ROMAN FOOD.
>> BEAUTIFUL. ALDO NOW RUNS THE RESTAURANT
ALONGSIDE HIS DAUGHTER ROSANNA. PEOPLE COME ACROSS THE CITY AND
APPARENTLY FURTHER TO ENJOY THE COMFORT OF ALDO’S FAMILY FOOD.
SO TELL ME ABOUT CARBONARA. CARBONARA IS A ROMAN DISH, BUT
WE DON’T KNOW WHEN IT WAS INVENTED, RIGHT?
ONE STORY I’D ALWAYS HEARD IS THAT CARBONARA CAME ABOUT WHEN
AMERICAN SOLDIERS IN ROME DURING THE WAR STARTED MISSING THEIR
BACON AND EGGS BACK HOME AND WANTED THEM ADDED TO SPAGHETTI.
ALDO, HOWEVER, HAS HIS OWN THEORY
. >> IT SEEMS SOME THINGS ARE
DESTINED TO REMAIN ROMAN MYTHS. WHAT EVERYONE CAN AGREE ON IS
THAT THE CARBONARA HERE IS INCREDIBLE
. I KNOW, I KNOW.
YOU HAVE BASICALLY FOUR INGREDIENTS ‐‐ PASTA, EGGS,
THE ‐‐ AND CHEESE. THAT’S IT.
BUT WHEN I TRY IT AT HOME IT’S NEVER THIS GOOD.
MY MOTHER DOES THAT, TOO. WHEN I TASTE PASTA LIKE THIS I
UNDERSTAND WHY IT REMAINS SO IMPORTANT TO THE CITY.
ROME MAY BE THE SEAT OF POWER AND RELIGION BUT IT’S
OVERWHELMINGLY A WORKING CLASS TOWN.
THIS IS SIMPLE FOOD THAT’S BEEN ELEVATED OVER CENTURIES BY
PEOPLE MAKING THE BEST OF WHAT LITTLE THEY HAD AVAILABLE.
THEY’RE RIGHTLY PROUD THAT THEIR HUMBLE FOOD HAS COME TO DEFINE
ITALY TO T
>>> I’VE HEADED 5 MILES OUT OF THE CITY CENTER USING THE NEWLY
EXTENDED METRO LINE. ROMANS HAD A REPUTATION FOR
RESISTING CHANGE, AND THE ARRIVAL OF THE SUBWAY IN 2014
HAS SHAKEN UP OLD, POOR NEIGHBORHOODS OF THE CITY.
NOWHERE MORE SO THAN CENTO C CELLE.
GENTRIFICATION IS MOVING IN ON THIS NEIGHBORHOOD AND FOOD IS ON
THE FRONT LINE. >> GENTOCELLE IS A ROMAN NAME.
IT’S 100 JAIL IN ENGLISH. >> 100 JAILS?
>> EXACTLY. >> THERE MAY NEVER HAVE ACTUALLY
BEEN 100 JAILS HERE, BUT WHAT THIS AREA DOES HAVE IS THREE NEW
SUBWAY STATIONS ALL IN CLOSE PROXIMITY.
>> THIS CHANGES THE GAME. A LOT OF PEOPLE CAME HERE TO TRY
TO INVEST A BIT. >> IS THAT WHERE WE’RE GOING?
LET’S GO IN AND SEE. IT’S LONG HAD A ROUGH
REPUTATION. THAT’S CHANGING FAST, THOUGH.
AND ONE PLACE SEEN BY SOME AS GROUND ZERO FOR THE
TRANSFORMATION OF THE NEIGHBORHOOD IS A DELI.
HE OPENED THIS PLACE WELL BEFORE THE METRO ARRIVED.
HE WANTED TO REHABILITATE THE SURROUNDING LAZIO’S REGION
REPUTATION FOR FOOD AND BRING THE BEST OF THE COUNTRYSIDE BACK
FOR HIS NEIGHBORS TO ENJOY AT FAIR PRICES.
CAN I TASTE SOME? PEP RENO CHEESE IS MADE FROM
SHEEPS MILK AND ROME IS FAMOUS FOR IT.
HISTORICALLY THEY WERE RAISED AS AN ALTERNATIVE TO CROPS.
HE SEARCHES FOR UNLIKELY PLACES FOR CHEESE THAT ALSO HELPS HIS
COMMUNITY. WHAT DOES THAT MEAN?
OH, OKAY. ONLY IN ITALY WOULD AN ANCIENT
CHEESE RECIPE BE SAVED BY PRISONERS.
THAT’S DELICIOUS. AS WELL AS SHEEPS MILK CHEESE,
PORK FINDS ITS WAY INTO ALMOST EVERY DISH I’VE HAD IN ROME.
HISTORICALLY PIGS WERE RAISED ALL AROUND THE CITY BECAUSE THEY
NEED LESS SPACE THAN OTHER ANIMALS.
TO ME VINCHENZO IS DOING SOMETHING AMAZING.
OVER THE PAST FEW YEARS ANOTHER 50 TO 60 FOOD PLACES HAVE OPENED
UP NEARBY.
>> ROMANS ARE RENOWNED FOR THEIR STURBEN RESISTANCE TO CHANGE.
I GUESS IT’S WHAT’S KEPT THE CITY STANDING FOR CENTURIES.
BUT HE WANTS TO SHOW ME ANOTHER AFF
CAFE IN THE AREA, ONE OF MANY THAT HAS OPENED IN RECENT YEARS.
I WASN’T FULLY PREPARED FOR WHAT WE FOUND.
>> IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE BUT A FEW MONTHS AGO THIS PLACE WAS A
THRIVING CAFE AND BOOKSHOP CALLED THE ELECTRIC SHEEP.
ON THE NIGHT OF APRIL 25, 2019, HER CAFE WAS FIRE BOMBED.
SHE SET ABOUT REBUILDING HER BUSINESS, BUT SHOCKINGLY THE
NIGHT BEFORE SHE WAS DUE TO REOPEN THE ATTACKERS STRUCK
AGAIN. THREE LOCAL BUSINESSES HAVE NOW
BEEN ATTACKED LIKE THIS HERE INCLUDING A PIZZA PLACE AND THIS
JAZZ BAR. THE POLICE STILL HAVEN’T FOUND
WHO’S RESPONSIBLE. BECAUSE SHE HOSTED COMMUNITY
EVENTS AT THE CAFE INCLUDING ANTI‐FASCIST TALKS SUSPICION HAS
FALLEN ON THE FAR‐RIGHT. BUT OTHERS HERE BLAME LOCAL
CRIMINALS PROTECTING THEIR OLD TURF OR EVEN ANTI‐GENTRIFICATION
CAMPAIGNERS. IS THIS HAPPENING IN OTHER PARTS
OF ROME, TOO? >> NO.
>> WHEN CHANGE HAPPENS, ROMANS RESIST.
BUT WHOEVER DID THIS HAS MADE IT DANGEROUS TO SELL FOOD.
IT SEEMS BRUTAL TO ATTACK RESTAURANTS AND
>>> TUCKED IN A CURVE OF THE RIVER TIBUR IS ‐‐ ONCE KNOWN AS
THE BELLY OF ROME. HOME TO THE OLD SLAUGHTERHOUSE
THAT SUPPLIED 19th AND 20th CENTURY ROMANS WITH MEAT.
SO TELL ME ABOUT THIS PLACE. >> THIS IS THE RETIRED
SLAUGHTERHOUSE. AND FOR ABOUT 100 YEARS UNTIL
THE 1970s IT’S WHERE MOST LARGE ROMAN ANIMALS WERE SLAUGHTERED
BASICALLY FROM LAMBS ALL THE WAY UP THROUGH STEER.
>> THIS FOUR‐SQUARE MILE SITE WILL BE REDEVELOPED INTO A
CULTURAL AREA, BUT FOR NOW SIGNS OF ITS FORMER LIFE ARE
EVERYWHERE. AND WHERE IS THE ‐‐ OH, YEAH,
THE TRACKS FOR THE CARCASSES, YEAH.
KATEY IS A REKNOWN FOOD WRITER WHO SWAPPED NEW JERSEY FOR ROME
ALMOST 20 YEARS AGO. >> SKINNING HAPPENED THERE.
IT’S AN ORGANIZED PLACE WITH SO MANY PAVILIONS COVERING A VAST
AREA AND REALLY INFLUENCING THE TYPES OF FOODS THAT WOULD BE
EATEN JUST ACROSS THE STREET AT THE LATE 19th AND EARLY 20th
CENTURY. >> IN BUTCHERY THE ANIMAL IS
QUARTERED, AND THOSE CUTS WENT STRAIGHT UP TO THE UPPER AND
MIDDLE CLASS KITCHENS. EVERYTHING LEFTOVER, THE BLOOD,
BRAINS AND INTESTINES WAS CALLED THE QUINTO QUARTO, THE FIFTH
QUARTER. AND THOSE WERE LEFT TO THE POOR.
SOME WORKERS WERE EVEN PAID INSTEAD OF MONEY, SO THEY HAD
LITTLE CHOICE BUT TO MAKE THE BEST OF IT.
SANTO PALATO. IF YOU KNOW HOW TO COOK AWFO YOU
CAN TURN THE POOREST INTO THE RICHERS OF DISHES.
AND KATEY WANTS ME TO MEET A YOUNG CHEF WITH A GROWING
REPUTATION FOR DOING AMAZING THINGS WITH INNARDS.
>> SHE’S GOING TO MAKE A FRITATTA FOR US, AND IT’S TOPPED
WITH CHICKEN INNARDS. >> SO EVERYTHING WE FOCUS ON
HERE IN THE RESTAURANT IS AWFO. ONE EGG PER PERSON, OKAY.
THROUGHOUT IT DAY, HAVE IT FOR BREAKFAST, LUNCH, DINNER?
>> YEAH, I LIKE IT A SANDWICH. >> THAT’S WHAT I USED TO TAKE
WHEN I WAS A KID TO SCHOOL. >> THE CHEF GAVE UP MEDICAL
SCHOOL TO PURSUE HER DREAM OF OPENING A RESTAURANT.
>> THE STOMACH, THE HEART AND THE LIVER.
>> IN ROME YOU FIND RICOTTA AND CHICKEN ORGANS SEPARATELY, BUT
SHE’S COMBINED THEM.
SMELL IT. DON’T FORGET ABOUT THIS BREAD.
>> WOW, YEAH. NICE AND HOT, TOO.
THAT’S GREAT. >> THANK YOU.
>> THAT IS GREAT. >> THIS IS REALLY SPECIAL.
AND I THINK IT’S A REALLY GOOD DEMONSTRATION OF WHAT SARAH DOES
REALLY WELL, WHICH IS TAKING ROMAN CLASSIC FLAVORS AND
COMBINING THEM IN A WAY THAT’S NEW BUT NOT REVOLUTIONARY OR
EXTRA CONTEMPORARY. THEY JUST MAKE SENSE TODAY.
>> WE TAKE A SEAT IN THE DINING ROOM.
WHAT’S THAT? IS A REALLY UNUSUAL TEXTURE,
TOO, ISN’T IT? SO BREAK DOWN WHAT THE AWFO ARE
HEART, LIVER, STOMACH, TONGUE, BRAINS, SNOUT, INTESTINES.
>> THE WHOLE HEAD REALLY IF YOU THINK ABOUT IT.
>> IF PASTA IS THE FIRST PILLAR OF ROMAN FOOD THE ASTONISHING
USE OF AWFO IS DEFINITELY THE SECOND.
SOMEHOW POOR ROMANS TURNED THESE UNPROMISING CUTS INTO SHEER
CULINARY POETRY.
I LOVE OXTAIL. >> I’M SO INTO IT.
>> THAT’S REALLY GOOD. >> AND THIS IS DEFINITELY A MORE
CARNIVOROUS CITY THAN A FISH CITY.
EVEN THOUGH WE’RE 15 MILES FROM THE SEA, THAT WAS REALLY, REALLY
FAR IN PRE‐1970 STANDARDS BEFORE ICE AND REFRIGERATION.
>> YEAH. >> SO THIS IS THAT HONEYCOMB
TRIBE WITH ALL THOSE BEAUTIFUL POCKETS, LOTS OF NICE STOMACH
GEOMETRY GOING ON. >> I’VE NEVER HEARD IT DESCRIBED
AS STOMACH JEGEOMETRY. THAT IS REALLY GOOD.
>> IT’S BOILED MULTIPLE TIMES AND CLEANED MANY TIMES WITH
TOMATO AND MINT. GO TO ANOTHER PLACE WHERE IT’S
INCLUDED AND IT’S PREPARED DIFFERENTLY.
>> STEWED STOMACH MAY NOT SOUND APPEALING, I KNOW, BUT BELIEVE
ME THESE ARE REALLY TASTY FLAVORS.
THE ROMAN POOR DIDN’T HAVE MUCH TO WORK WITH, BUT AGAINST THE
ODDS THEY WOUND UP MAKING SOME OF THE VERY BEST FOOD IN THE
CITY. WHAT CAN I SAY?
♪
>>> THANK YOU VERY MUCH. THANK YOU, THANK YOU.
WE’RE HERE IN ROME, AND IT’S THE MOST WONDERFUL TIME OF THE YEAR.
NO, IT’S NOT CHRISTMAS. IT’S ARTICHOKE SEASON.
RIGHT NOW MARKETS ACROSS THE CITY ARE HUMMING WITH THE SOUND
OF PEOPLE HACKING AWAY AT ROME’S FAVORITE VEGETABLE.
SO SHOW ME THE ARTICHOKES. AS I’VE BEEN FINDING OUT WITH
ROMAN FOOD YOU SOMETIMES HAVE TO DIG A LITTLE TO GET TO THE GOOD
STUFF. SO THIS IS WHERE THE ‐‐
ONCE TRIMMED THEY CAN BE DEEP FRIED TO MAKE ONE OF MY ALL‐TIME
FAVORITE ROMAN FOODS, JEWISH FRIED ARTICHOKES.
YOU KNOW, MY GRANDMOTHER AND MY MOTHER WOULD MAKE THESE.
ASK ANYONE HERE AND THEY’LL TELL YOU THIS WEIRD LOOKING VEGETABLE
IS A DEFINITIVE ROMAN FOOD. THANK YOU SO MUCH.
BUT WHAT I LOVE IS THAT UNDER THOSE ROUGH OUTER LEAVES IT
CONTAINS AN ENTIRE HISTORY, A STORY OF HOW SOCIETY’S OUTCASTS
CAN CHANGE THE HABITS OF AN ENTIRE CITY.
THESE PICTURESQUE RUINS ONCE CONTAINED THE MISERY OF ROME’S
JEWISH GHETTO. FROM 1500s ONWARDS THE CITY’S
ENTIRE JEWISH COMMUNITY WAS LOCKED IN THIS WALLED AREA.
ONLY ALLOWED TO LEAVE TO DO MENIAL JOBS IN THE DAYTIME
BEFORE BEING LOCKED IN AT NIGHT.
SHE’S IN HER 80s AND HAS LIVED HERE HER WHOLE LIFE.
WHEN THE NAZIS SEIZED ROME IN OCTOBER 1943, THE GHETTO WAS A
SITTING TARGET. AND ITS 1,204 RESIDENTS WERE
SENT TO THE GAS CHAMBERS. ITALIA WAS JUST A HANDFUL WHO
ESCAPED WHEN HER GRANDFATHER HID HER OUTSIDE THE CITY.
FOR THE FEW WHO SURVIVED FOOD BECAME A VITAL LINK BACK TO
THEIR PAST. THE JEWS OF ROME HAD LIVED IN
POVERTY FOR CENTURIES AND WERE FORCED TO RELY ON THE CHEAPEST
OF INGREDIENTS
. >> USING TYPICAL ROMAN
INVENTIVENESS THE JEWS TRANSFORMED UNLOVED INGREDIENTS
LIKE ANCHOVIES, EGGPLANTS AND ARTICHOKES INTO DISHES THAT
ENTIRE CITY WOULD EVENTUALLY TAKE TO ITS HEART.
ALONGSIDE PASTA AND OFFAL THE INFLUENCE OF JEWISH COOKING IS
THE THIRD PILLAR OF JEWISH CUISINE TODAY.
IN THIS KITCHEN ITALIA AND HER TEAM RAISE THE HUMBLE ARTICHOKE
INTO FOOD FOR THE AGES
. THAT WAS DONE YESTERDAY, COOKED
IN THE OIL, AND REFRIGERATED. ALL RIGHT, WE’RE SPREADING OUT
THE LEAVES. THEY’RE PRE‐COOKED.
LOOK AT HOW BEAUTIFUL THAT IS.
>> THAT’S THE BEST ONE I’VE HAD. THAT IS DELICIOUS.
IT’S SO ADDICTIVE. IT’S LIKE EATING CANDY.
YOU JUST CAN’T STOP. IT’S SO CRISPY.
>> PEOPLE LOVE IT, YEAH. THIS DISH TELLS A STORY.
IT HAS SURVIVED THE DARKEST OF TIMES.
AND LINKS US TO A PAST THAT WAS ALMOST WIPED OUT.
TO ME, IT’S A TYPE OF HISTORICAL MONUMENT IN ITALIAN COOKING.
NOW BELOVED BY
>>> IT’S MY LAST NIGHT IN ROME. DURING MY TIME HERE, I’VE
LEARNED THAT ABOVE ALL ELSE, FOOD IN ITALY IS ABOUT WHO YOU
ARE AND WHERE YOU’RE FROM. BUT WHERE DOES THAT LEAVE YOU IF
YOU’RE AN OUTSIDER? I’VE COME TO BISTRO 64, A
RESTAURANT THAT HAS WON A MICHELIN STAR.
THE CHEF IS AN OUT OF TOWNER, BUT HE’S NOT FROM NAPLES OR
MILAN. HE’S FROM JAPAN.
STANLEY. >> NICE TO MEET YOU.
>> NICE TO MEET YOU, TOO. >> HE WAS LURED HERE 20 YEARS
AGO BY HIS OBSESSION WITH THE FLAVORS OF ITALIAN CUISINE.
>> HIS FOOD HAS WON PRAISE FOR ITS CREATIVITY.
BUT TONIGHT, HE’S MAKING THE SIMPLEST ROMAN CLASSIC, ONE OF
THE FAMOUS FOUR PASTAS. LITERALLY, CHEESE AND PEPPER.
THERE ARE JUST THREE MAIN INGREDIENTS, BUT IT TAKES GREAT
SKILL TO MAKE THIS ROMAN FAVORITE PERFECT.
>> OF COURSE, ANOTHER ITALIAN KITCHEN SECRET.
>> COULD TAKE A WHILE.
>> I KNOW YOU MAY BE THINKING THIS IS LUDICROUSLY SIMPLE FOOD.
BUT BELIEVE ME, IT’S EXTRAORDINARY.
AND DON’T JUST TAKE MY WORD FOR IT.
WHERE IS KAREN? KAREN?
COME HERE. OKAY.
>> OKAY. >> THIS IS KAREN, WHO WORKS WITH
US. ONE OF THE PRODUCERS.
SHE’S FROM ROME. YOU TELL US WHAT YOU THINK.
>> OKAY. >> GO AHEAD, NO PRESSURE, NO
PRESSURE. HE’S NOT NERVOUS AT ALL.
HE DOESN’T CARE ABOUT OUR OPINION.
>> IT’S DIVINE. YES, IT’S SO GOOD.
IT’S PERFECTLY CREAMY. NOT TOO INTENSE, NOT OVERLOADED
WITH FLAVOR. >> YEAH.
>> AND HE REALLY RESPECTS, YOU KNOW, HOW IT WOULD BE COOKED IN
A FAMILY.
>> THERE’S ALWAYS A SECRET. >> THERE’S ALWAYS A SECRET, YES.
WHEN IT COMES TO FOOD, ROMAN KNOW WHAT THEY LIKE, AND LIKE
WHAT THEY KNOW. BEYOND HIS MASTERFUL TAKE ON
CLASSICS, IT’S ALSO FULL OF INCREDIBLE INNOVATIONS.
FROM SWEET BREADS TO PLUM GELATO.
I WAS CURIOUS HOW THE CITY HAS TAKEN TO HIS INNOVATIONS.
>> THE DOWNSIDE OF ROME BEING SO STEEPED IN HISTORY IS THAT
SOMETIMES GREAT THINGS ARE RE RESISTED BECAUSE THEY’RE NEW,
AND NOT WHAT PEOPLE ARE USED TO. MISSING FOOD THIS GOOD IS A REAL
SHAME. I’M SORRY.
BUT HERE’S THE THING. THE ONE THING ROMANS CAN’T
RESIST IS A GOOD MEAL. AND I’M HOPEFUL THAT SOON HIS