>>> SO HERE WE ARE IN MILAN, THE FASHION AND INDUSTRIAL
POWERHOUSE. I HAVE ONLY BEEN TO MILAN A FEW
TIMES AND ALWAYS IN PASSING. I NEVER HAVE STAYED HERE LONG
ENOUGH TO REALLY GET A SENSE OF IT.
THE FIRST THING THAT STRIKES YOU ABOUT MILAN IS ITS DYNOISM.
NO WONDER THE ESPRESSO WAS INVENTED HERE.
I THINK I WILL NEED A FEW OF THESE JUST TO KEEP UP WITH THE
RHYTHM OF THE CITY. THEY BRING AS MUCH TO THE
ITALIAN TABLE AS THEY DO TO THE ECONOMY.
I AM TRAVELING ACROSS ITALY TO DISCOVER HOW THE FOOD IN EACH OF
THE COUNTRY’S 20 REGIONS IS AS UNIQUE AS THE PEOPLE AND THEIR
PAST. >> THAT’S DELICIOUS.
>> HERE IN MILAN, THE MENU IS NOTHING LIKE YOU EXPECT.
UP HERE IN THE NORTH, FORGET ABOUT PASTA AND PIZZA.
>> OH, MY GOD. THAT’S SO BEAUTIFUL.
>> THIS IS THE LAND OF RICE AND POLENTA.
>> IN ANCIENT TIME, IT WAS LIKE THE BREAD.
>> THERE IS NOT EVEN A TOMATO IN SIGHT.
>> THIS IS AMAZING. >> OLIVE OIL PLAYS SECOND FIDDLE
TO BUTTER. >> BUTTER?
JESUS, WHOA, JESUS. IRRESPONSIBLE AMOUNTS OF BUTTER
WERE USED IN THE MAKING OF THIS BUTTER.
I HATE TO SAY IT, BUT WE NEED MORE BUTTER.
♪ >> MILAN IS THE SECOND BIGGEST
CITY IN ITALY, IT’S THE CAPITAL IN THE REGION OF THE NORTH
PENINSULA, THE GATEWAY TO NORTHERN EUROPE AND ALL OF THE
TRADE AND MONEY THAT BRINGS. SOPHISTICATED, ELEGANT AND RICH.
MILAN IS THE EPICENTER OF DESIGN, FASHION AND FINANCE.
THE MOST ICONIC VISUAL REPRESENTATION OF MILAN’S POWER
IS THE CATHEDRAL, THE BIGGEST CHURCH IN THE WHOLE OF ITALY.
THIS BREATHTAKING ARCHITECT OF A JEWEL IS THE PERFECT METAPHOR
FOR ITALY’S AMBITION. >> WHERE ARE YOU TAKING ME?
UP. JUST UP.
>> ONE OF MY FAVORITE ITALIAN WRITERS, HE’S A "NEW YORK TIMES"
COLUMN NORTHWEST. HE’S A MASTER AT EXPLAINING
ITALIANS TO THE REST OF THE WORLD AND I WANT HIM TO TELL ME
ALL I NEED TO KNOW ABOUT MILAN. >> WELCOME TO MILAN’S FIRST EVER
SKYSCRAPER. >> EVEN BETTER, HE HAS THE KEYS
TO THE MOST EXCLUSIVE ROOFTOP IN THE CITY.
>> IT’S LIKE CITY UNTO ITSELF, ISN’T IT?
>> MINUTE IATURE. >> WOW.
>> IT’S LIKE A SANDCASTLE, AND THESE WERE BUILT IN THE LATE
14th CENTURY. >> I HAVE BEEN TOLD THAT MILAN,
IT’S ALWAYS LOOKING FORWARD MORE THAN OTHER CITIES.
>> ABSOLUTELY. I LOVE MILAN, BECAUSE THE
SUCCESS OF MILAN IN MY VIEW, YOU WALK AROUND AND YOU ACTUALLY
HEAR ALL OF THESE FANTASTIC ITALIAN ABG
ITALIAN ACCEPTS FROM ITALY, AND THESE YOUNG KIDS COMING FROM
EUROPE AND BRINGING NEW IDEAS. >> WHAT IS THE POLITICS LIKE?
>> IT’S TRICKY, MILAN IS ON THE LEFT, AND MANY PEOPLE THINK, YOU
KNOW, THE LEAGUE CAN BE VERY UNPLEASANT, THE LEADERS, BUT THE
GOOD THING OF MILAN IS NOBODY IN ITALY, IF YOU HAVE A RIGHT WING
REGION, AND A LEFT WING TOWN, THEY WILL SPEND TIME ANNOYING
EACH OTHER, BOYCOTTING EACH OTHER ‐‐
>> AND NOBODY WINS. >> NOBODY WINS.
IN MILAN THEY DECIDED, MILAN IS MORE IMPORTANT AND WEALTH IS
MORE IMPORTANT, AND LIKE MILAN LIKE AMERICANS, THEY KNOW MONEY
IS IMPORTANT. FOOD AND MONEY IS IMPORTANT.
>> WHAT IS THE THING THAT SEPARATES THE CUISINE?
>> IN MILAN, IT’S FOOD FOR WORK, IT’S RESULTO, AND IT’S MEAT,
IT’S LIKE SOMETHING THAT WILL KEEP YOU GOING AND KEEP WORKING
IN THE COLD. >> MORE SWISS OR DRAMATIC ‐‐
>> DON’T SAY THIS. >> NO, NEVER, I WOULD NEVER DO
THAT. NEVER DO THAT.
>> TRADITIONALLY, FOOD HAS NEVER BEEN THE FOCUS OF THIS CITY.
THEY ARE TOO BUSY MAKING MONEY TO WORRY ABOUT WHAT IS FOR
DINNER. DESPITE THIS, MILAN IS A
TRAILBLAZING CITY AT HEART AND IN THE PAST FEW YEARS, IT HAS
BECOME A CULINARY MECCA. ONE OF THE CHEF’S RESPONSIBLE
FOR THE MILAN FOOD REVOLUTION HERE.
>> STANLEY. >> HE’S AT THE HELM OF THE
RESTAURANT THAT HAS BEEN MAKING WAVES ON THE GASSCENE.
HE IS RENOWN FOR BEING INNOVATIVE, NOBODY KNOWS HOW TO
MAKE MILAN’S CLASSIC DISHES LIKE HIM.
>> OH, MY GOD. THAT’S WHEN ‐‐ THAT WAS THE
RECORD THEY FOUND. THERE YOU HAVE IT.
PROOF THAT MILAN LED THE WAY IN THE INVENTION OF THE SCHNITZEL.
ANY DESCENDING AUSTRIAN, DON’T CALL ME.
SO THIS IS BUTTER. IN THIS CLIMATE, OLIVE OIL GIVES
WAY TO BUTTER. THE KEY INGREDIENT TO NORTHERN
ITALIAN COOKING. DRY SUNNY FIELDS OF OLIVE TREES
ARE REPLACED BY FERTILE PASTERS. >> I KNOW YOU ARE NOT SUPPOSED
TO, BUT I LOVE IT. THE REARING PRACTICES IS MUCH
BETTER NOW, LIKE THIS, FOR INSTANCE.
>> IN THIS WEALTHY CITY, HUMBLE RICE IS FLAVORED WITH A SPICE
MORE THAN GOLD
.
>> SO THEY USE THE SAFFRON TO COLOR THE STAIN‐GLASSED WINDOWS.
THOSE ARE VERY EXPENSIVE WINDOWS.
>> YEAH. >> OH, MY GOD, THAT’S SO
BEAUTIFUL. >> PERFECTO.
>> MAGICAL. CHEERS.
>> CHEERS. ♪
>> THEY ARE PERFECT.
PROPER. IT’S A LITTLE THICKER, AND I
THINK IT’S KIND OF DRY. IT’S SO PERFECTLY MOIST.
SO GOOD. >> HE UNLOCKED SOME OF THE
SECRETS OF THIS METROPOLIS FOR ME, BUT I HEAR TO GET TO THE
>>> PEOPLE HERE ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR UNRIVALLED WORK ETHIC.
THEY ALWAYS HAD TO OVERCOME INCLEMENT WEATHER, AND THEY WORK
HARD AND THEY ALSO PLAY HARD. I HEARD WITHIN ITALY MILAN IS
KNOWN AS A CITY TO DRINK. >> IT’S VERY, VERY COOL BECAUSE
IT’S RAINING AND IT’S COLD BUT ITALIAN PEOPLE, THEY ALWAYS GO
HERE. >> IT’S A POST DRINK MEANT TO
WET OR APPETITE. I AM HEAR WITH TESS, WHO IS
SOMETHING OF AN EXPERT ON THE SUBJECT.
>> I WAS WATCHING YOUR STUFF. SO FUNNY.
>> THANK YOU. >> OH, GOD, IT’S JUST BRILLIANT.
YOU STARTED DOING THEM FIVE YEARS AGO, RIGHT?
>> FIVE YEARS AGO, YES. >> TESS IS A MILAN‐BASED SOCIAL
MEDIA SENSATION, WHO IS KNOWN FOR HER IRONIC TAKE ON MODERN
LIVING, HALF FRENCH AND HALF ITALIAN, LIKE SO MANY OTHER
YOUNG PEOPLE, SHE NOW CALLS MILAN HER HOME.
>> NOW WE ARE GOING TO A SPECIAL BAR AND THEY HAVE AMAZING
COCKTAILS. >> REALLY.
>> I DON’T KNOW IF YOU KNOW SPRITZ.
>> IS THIS THE JOINT? >> OH, JESUS.
I HAVE NOT EVEN HAD A DRINK YET. IT HAS TAKEN THE WORLD BY STORM,
BUT IT’S A KWEPBDRINK MADE HERE MILAN.
>> GREAT. THANK YOU.
>> THANK YOU SO MUCH. >> CHEERS.
>> SALUTE. >> HERE YOU CAN HAVE A DRINK AND
EAT. YOU GO BACK HOME AND YOU DON’T
HAVE TO COOK. >> OH, THANK YOU.
OH, THERE’S THE FOOD. >> SO YOU EAT, AND YOU ARE MORE
HUNGRY, SO YOU EAT AGAIN. >> IT’S AMAZING.
AMAZING. >> A LOT OF THEM TAKE THEIR WORK
SO SERIOUSLY THEY HARDLY STOP FOR LUNCH.
LUCKILY THIS LED TO A REVOLUTIONARY INVENTION WE ARE
ALL GRATEFUL FOR, THE HAPPY HOUR.
>> YEAH, IT’S VERY FAMOUS ALSO FOR THE SECRET VASE, AND I LOVE
IT BECAUSE IT’S LIKE IN THE MOVIE, AND TO ENTER YOU HAVE TO
HAVE A PASSWORD. >> SO IT’S LIKE THE OLD
SPEAKIES. >> BUT LEGAL?
>> YES ‐‐ WELL, MAYBE. >> TESS HAS BEEN GIVEN A
PASSWORD FOR A SECRET BAR JUST BEHIND THE CATHEDRAL.
>> THIS IS IT? >> THIS IS IT.
>> AND THE PASSWORD IS THE NAME OF THE WITCH ONCE BELIEVED TO BE
THE PROTECTOR OF THIS NEIGHBORHOOD.
>> CHOA. >> ARE YOU SURE THIS IS THE
RIGHT PLACE? >> YES.
>> OH, HELLO. THANK YOU.
THIS PLACE IS SO HIP IT MAKES ME WANT TO BE 20 AGAIN.
>> DO YOU LIKE IT? >> YEAH, I LOVE IT.
>> OR 40. OR EVEN 50.
50 WOULD BE FINE. >> HELLO.
STANLEY. >> NICE TO MEET YOU.
WELCOME. >> ONE OF MILAN’S MOST IN‐DEMAND
MIXOLOGISTS. >> I WILL HAVE THE MARTINI BLACK
SAFFORD. >> YES, PLEASE.
THEY ARE SIGHT SPECIFIC.
>> OH, I SEE, IT’S BLACK. >> MORRIS HAS INVENTED A DRINK
TO HONOR THE HISTORY OF THE BUILDING.
THERE WERE COAL WORKERS, AND DESPITE BEING AMONG MILAN’S
POOREST RESIDENTS, THEY ESCAPED THE PLAGUE OF 1930.
>> THEY THOUGHT IT WAS HER, THEY THOUGHT IT WAS THE WITCH, BUT IT
WAS THE COAL? SO THIS IS GOING TO KEEP ME VERY
HEALTHY? THAT’S THE BEST MARTINI I HAVE
HAD IN A VERY LONG TIME. >> THANK YOU.
>> WOW. AND YOU CAME TO MILAN WHEN?
>> I COME HERE AFTER MY FATHER IS ITALIAN, AND MY MOTHER IS
FROM CANADA. SORRY.
>> THAT’S OKAY. >> DON’T LET HIM IN.
I WOULDN’T LET THAT GUY IN. IT’S REALLY INTERESTING.
THERE’S A FORWARD‐THINKING ASPECT TO THIS CITY, ONE THAT I
HAVE NOT SEEN IN OTHER ITALIAN CITIES.
SO MANY PEOPLE ‐‐ >> YEAH, THEY COME FROM ALL
OVER. >> THERE’S A LOT OF WORK.
>>> MILAN IS ONE OF THE FASHION CAPITALS OF THE WORLD.
THE LOVE AFFAIR BETWEEN MILAN AND FASHION GOES BACK TO THE
MIDDLE AGES WHEN THE CITY WAS ALREADY KNOWN FOR THE PRODUCTION
OF LUXURY GARMENTS. WHEN MILAN BECAME THE CENTER OF
THE POSTWAR ECONOMIC BOOM HERE IS WHERE ORDINARY ITALIANS
LEARNED TO DRESS AND MILAN SPEARHEADED THE REVOLUTION THAT
WAS READY TO WEAR. I LOVE FASHION.
ALWAYS HAVE. EVERY MOVIE I DO, I LIKE TO HAVE
PEOPLE DRESSING ‐‐ I THINK IT’S A REALLY BEAUTIFUL PROCESS.
I FEEL VERY LUCKY BECAUSE TODAY I HAVE BEEN INVITED TO MEET ONE
OF THE MOST SUCCESSFUL FASHION FAMILIES IN ITALY.
THEY ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR INSTANTLY RECOGNIZABLE KNITWEAR.
THIS MULTIGENERATIONAL DYNASTY BUILT ITS SUCCESS ON THE LOCAL
TEXTILE MANUFACTURING EXPERTISE. 30 MILES NORTHWEST OF MILAN NEXT
TO THE FACTORY IS THERE FAMILY HOME.
>> FOLLOW ME. >> OF COURSE, I WILL FOLLOW YOU
ANYWHERE. I’M HERE FOR LUNCH, BUT IT SEEMS
LIKE I WILL HAVE TO WORK FOR IT. THE 88‐YEAR‐OLD MATRIARCH OF THE
EMPIRE IS TAKING ME ON A TREASURE HUNT.
>> DON’T WALK ON MY MUSHROOMS. >> TELL ME ABOUT WHEN YOU HAD
YOUR SHOW IN 1967? >> YES.
THEY GAVE US 60 MODELS AND THEY DIDN’T HAVE THE RIGHT KIND, AND
I SAID SO YOU HAVE TO TAKE OFF YOUR BRA, AND THEY HAD NICE
BREASTS AND I DIDN’T SEE A PROBLEM, SO WHEN THE GIRLS
WALKED OUT OF THE RUNWAY WITH THE LIGHT, THE CLOTHES WERE
TRANSPARENT AND THEY SOME CRAZY COLLECTION ‐‐
>> YOU MISTAKENLY CHANGED FASHIONS?
THAT’S FANTASTIC. THIS IS WHAT MY GRANDFATHER USED
TO DO. >> SHE’S ONLY INTERESTED IN POOR
PORCINI MUSHROOMS. >> WHAT ARE THOSE?
>> NO. NO.
THAT’S POISONOUS.
>> THAT ONE? >> NO.
NO LUCK TODAY. BUT YOU NEVER KNOW, THAT’S THE
PLEASURE OF FINDING MUSHROOMS BECAUSE IT’S THE SURPRISE.
>> TRUE. >> LUCKILY WE ARE NOT RELYING ON
OUR PICKINGS. WHO IS COOKING TODAY?
IS IT YOUR GRANDSON? >> HE SAID HE WILL TOOK ACOOK A
MUSHROOM FOR US. >> THAT’S GOOD.
>> HE IS SO OBSESSED WITH HIS FAMILY’S COOKING, HE HAS EVEN
WRITTEN A COOKBOOK. HIS MOTHER, ANGELA, RUNS THE
COMPANY AND SHE HAS COME OVER FROM THE NEARBY FACTORY TO JOIN
US IN THE KITCHEN. >> HELLO.
>> WE WILL LEAVE HER NOW BECAUSE
SHE’S THE MASTER. >> SHE WILL KICK YOU OUT ANYWAY.
>> YEAH. >> THIS WAS MY JOB WHEN I WAS A
KID, MY MOTHER WOULD GIVE ME THE MUSHROOM AND I WOULD HAVE TO
BRUSH THEM OFF. NOT ONES WE FOUND, ONES WE
BOUGHT, BUT THAT WAS MY JOB. WHAT ARE YOU MAKING?
>> WHAT WE DO, AND THIS IS A RECIPE, AND I DON’T KNOW WHERE
IT COMES FROM, AND WE PUT IN THE WATER THE GARLIC, AND IF WE
LEAVE IT, IT FLAVORS. >> YEAH, THAT’S NICE.
YOU KNOW A LOT ABOUT THE FOOD IN THIS AREA.
>> YEAH, IN THE ANCIENT TIME IT WAS LIKE THE BREAD, YOU EAT IT
WARM WITH MEAT IF YOU ARE LUCKY OR WITH CHEESE OR JUST WITH
BUTTER OR MY FAVORITE DISH AS A CHILD WAS WARM PALENTA AND COLD
MILK. >> USUALLY YOU HAVE COMPANY WITH
JEWS, AND IN THIS CASE WE HAVE WINE, ONION, CARROT AND CELERY.
>> HOURS AND HOURS, IT’S COOLED AND AT A LOW TEMPERATURE.
>> MY, GOD. IT JUST FALLS APART.
>> AND THIS IS BEAUTIFUL. >> I AM COOKING NOW THE
MUSHROOM, THE OLIVE OIL AND THE GARLIC.
>> THIS IS LIKE A PERFECT AUTUMN MEAL.
GORGEOUS. LUNCH IS NEARLY READY, BUT
BEFORE WE SIT DOWN TO FEAST, ANGELO IS TAKING ME FOR A PEEK
AROUND THE HOUSE. >> NOT TOO SHABBY.
>> LOOK AT THIS ROOM. IT’S NOT EVERYTHING IS SMITHONY,
BUT WE CAN LOOK AND SAY, OH, YES, THIS IS PART OF THE SEUT
SMITHSONIAN, BUT IT’S A PAINTING, RIGHT?
>> YOU GREW UP HERE? >> YEAH, AND NOBODY EVER MOVED,
AND THE THIRD GENERATION THEY ALL LEFT AND CAME BACK.
>> THAT’S NICE. >> WELCOME TO THE FAMILY.
>> THANK YOU SO MUCH. THANK YOU.
>> GRANDMA’S HOUSE IS LIKE THE HUB.
>> ONE OF THE PERKS OF LIVING CLOSE BY IS THAT THE WHOLE
FAMILY CAN DROP IN FOR LUNCH AT GRANDMA’S.
ALL THREE GENERATIONS COME TOGETHER TO SHARE MEALS
REGULARLY. >> HOW MANY OF YOU ARE INVOLVED
IN THE BUSINESS? >> ONE, TWO, THREE ‐‐ SO SIX.
>> BUT ENOUGH SHOP TALK, AS IF BY MAGIC, WE ARE ALL DRAWN TO A
BEAUTIFULLY LAID OUT TABLE. >> YOU WRAP IT IN THIS?
OH, THAT’S LOVELY. >> I MADE IT WITH ALL THE
TRADITIONAL DISHES. >> OH, LOTS OF THAT ‐‐ OH, MY
GOD, LOOK AT THAT. OH, MY GOD, THIS IS VERY
EXCITING. THE PHEASANT IS INCREDIBLE.
SO MANY TIMES YOU EAT PHEASANT, IT CAN BE SO DRY.
>> YEAH, AND IT’S REALLY JUICY. >> THIS IS AMAZING.
WHEN YOU WOULD COME HOME FOR LUNCH WHEN YOU ARE WORKING, WHAT
DO YOU EAT USUALLY? >> SHE HAD GUESTS ON SUNDAY, AND
WE MIGHT HAVE THAT ON A MONDAY. >> MIGHT HAVE LEFTOVERS.
>> IT’S DIFFICULT SOME DAYS ‐‐ >> IT LITERALLY MELTED IN MY
MOUTH. IT’S ALWAYS A PRIVILEGE LEARNING
OF FAMILY’S HOME RECIPES AND KITCHEN SECRETS.
>> I KNOW, I KNOW, AND I AM COMING BACK FOR BREAKFAST.
>> THIS FAMILY
♪ >>> THAT’S VERY EXCITING.
THE GEOGRAPHICAL DIVERSITY HERE IS ASTONISHING.
WITHIN A FEW MILES FROM MILAN THE LANDSCAPE CHANGES
DRAMATICALLY. IT COULD SNOW EVERY DAY AS FAR
AS I AM CONCERNED. HERE IN THE ALPS, YOU ARE IN A
DIFFERENT WORLD. DIFFERENT CULTURE.
DIFFERENT VALUES. DIFFERENT PACE.
NO MILANIAN IS IN A RUSH. THEY ARE PREPARED TO WAIT FOR
MORE THAN A DECADE FOR THEIR CHEESE TO MATURE.
>> STANLEY, HOW ARE YOU? >> HE HAS DEVOTED HIS WHOLE LIFE
TO A 2,000‐YEAR‐OLD TYPE OF CHEESE SO EXPENSIVE IT WAS NEVER
EATON EATEN BY THOSE WHO MADE IT, AND
IT BECAME THE LOCAL CURRENCY. EACH OF THE CHEESE WHEELS CAN
COST UP TO $850, MAKING IT ONE OF THE MOST EXPENSIVE CHEESES IN
THE WORLD. THE SECRET TO THIS EXTRAORDINARY
CHEESE IS THAT IT’S MADE FROM THE MILK OF COWS THAT GRAZE ON
ALPINE GRASS AT DIFFERENT ALTITUDES THROUGHOUT THE SUMMER.
>> CAN YOU TELL BY THE SMELL ‐‐ [ SPEAKING FOREIGN LANGUAGE ]
>> REALLY? THAT’S AMAZING.
HE SAVED THE CHEESE FROM EXTINCTION WHEN THE EUROPEAN
REGULATION CHANGED.
>> HERE’S CHEESE TO MEDITATE UPON.
OH, MY GOD. IT’S QUITE BEAUTIFUL.
OH, MY GOD, 12 YEARS. HE SAID IT OPENS UP HIS HEART.
WOW. THAT’S DELICIOUS.
THIS INCREDIBLE CHEESE WOULD NOT EXIST WERE IT NOT FOR THE HARD
WORK OF A NEAR EXTINCT COMMUNITY OF THE ALPINE HERDERS.
HIS DETERMINATION TO PROTECT THEIR TRADITION IS INSPIRING AND
NOW I AM INSPIRED TO COOK WITH THIS CHEESE.
ANYWAY, I THINK IT’S TIME TO FEED THE FILM CREW WHO HAVE BEEN
WATCHING ME EAT ALL DAY. I DON’T KNOW WHO THESE PEOPLE
ARE, GEORGE PAPADOPOULOSPAPARAZZ ARE FOLLOWING ME EVERYWHERE.
I AM GOING TO MAKE ONE OF MY FAVORITES, A SPECIAL KIND OF
NOODLE. I NEVER MADE IT BECAUSE THERE’S
NOT A LOT OF WHEAT IN THE AREA, THEY USE BUCKWHEAT, WHICH IS
INDIGENOUS. I CAN’T GET ENOUGH OF IT.
SO NOW, CABBAGE CUT LIKE THE NOODLE THEMSELVES, AND THEN THE
POTATOES. LIKE ALL NORTHERN DISHES, IT
REQUIRES LOTS OF BUTTER. AND NOW, OF COURSE, PALO’S
CHEESE. OKAY, I HATE TO SAY IT, BUT WE
NEED MORE BUTTER. THAT’S WHY NOBODY WHO EATS HERE
LIVES BEYOND THE AGE OF 35. SEE ALL THE NICE CHEESE MELTED
IN THERE. OKAY, EVERYBODY JUST COME AND
PICK. THAT’S ENOUGH FOR, LIKE, 1,000
PEOPLE. JAMIE, GIVE ME THE CAMERA.
YOU EAT. DO YOU LIKE IT?
>> I LIKE IT. >> YEAH?
>> THEY ARE EATING IT. THE CREW WAS EXHAUSTED, AND THEY
ARE LAPPING IT UP BUT WILL MY EFFORTS STAND THE TEST OF THE
LOCALS. A FAMILY THAT OWNS THE LODGE WE
ARE STAYING IN HAS OFFERED TO BE MY JUDGES, INCLUDING THE
PATRIARCH. >> VERY GOOD.
>> DON’T SAY THAT BECAUSE I AM FAMOUS
. >> OH, NO, NOW I AM VERY
NERVOUS. >> IT’S A GOOD SIGN IF HE’S NOT
SAYING ANYTHING.
>> THAT’S THE BEST COMPLIMENT ANYBODY COULD EVER HAVE.
I WOULD LIKE TO THINK IT’S MICHAELMY
CULINARY TALENT THAT MADE THIS DISH SO DELICIOUS, BUT IT’S
REALLY THE CHEESE. I AM SO GLAD HE SAVED THE CHEESE
FROM
>>> NICE BOAT. IT’S NICE AND CALM.
THIS IS THE LUMBARDY I KNOW. IT’S SHEAR BEAUTY WILL NEVER
CEASE TO AMAZE ME. THIS IS A MOST HUMBLED
DESTINATION. I AM HEAR WITH WILLIAM, A LOCAL
TEXTILE MANUFACTURER WITH A PASSION FOR FISHING.
>> IT’S A VERY IMPORTANT SILK FOR THE TEXTILE BUSINESS.
>> FOR SILK, YEAH. >> AND MY FAMILY IS THREE
GENERATION TEXTILE BUSINESS AND FOR THAT JOB I TRAVEL AROUND
EUROPE. >> REALLY?
>> AND I CAME BACK AND DECIDED WITH A FEW FRIENDS TO STAY
TOGETHER TO WORK, TO HELP. >> THE FEW FRIENDS TURNED INTO
AN ASSOCIATION OF 600 FISHERMEN. >> THAT’S A NICE ONE.
>> YES, THAT’S A NICE ONE. >> THEY MADE IT THEIR JOB TO
HELP THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT ENFORCE FISHING LIMITS ACROSS
THE LAKE. YOU CAN ONLY KEEP FISH THAT ARE
MORE THAN SIX INCHES LONG AND IN LIMITED QUANTITIES.
>> ARE PEOPLE TRYING TO STOP FISHING ON THE LAKE?
IS THAT WHAT PEOPLE WANT TO DO? >> WHAT IS GOING ON IS GLOBAL
WARMING. THEY ARE STARTING TO HAVE
TROUBLE AND WE HAVE TO DO SOMETHING TO CHANGE ‐‐
>> THESE FISH THAT COME FROM THESE LAKES, THEY ARE CRUCIAL TO
THE DIET. >> YEAH, OUR TRADITION IS IT’S
FANTASTIC, AND WE ARE GOING TO FISH.
>> I LOVE FISHING. I NEVER CATCH ANYTHING.
BUT TODAY I WILL I HOPE. >> I HOPE.
>> HOW DO YOU KNOW WHEN YOU CAN ‐‐
>> YEAH, YOU FEEL IT. YOU FEEL THE NIBBLE.
>> YEAH, THIS IS A NICE ONE! >> I CAN FEEL IT.
>> THIS IS A NICE ONE! >> THAT’S WHAT I’M TALKING
ABOUT. >> WHO IS THE PRESIDENT?
>> DON’T CUT THIS SEQUENCE. MAKE SURE IT’S IN ONE SHOT, SO
THEY KNOW. >> YOU ARE INVITED TO MY PLACE,
AND I WOULD LIKE TO TEACH YOU HOW TO COOK.
>> I AM VERY, VERY EXCITED. I HAVE HEARD THAT, LIKE MANY
PEOPLE OUTSIDE MILAN, WILLIAM SUPPORTS THE LEAGUE.
A POLITICAL PARTY BOURNE HERE DEMANDING THE INDEPENDENCE OF
THE NORTH FROM THE SOUTH. ITS LEADER, MAL ‐‐ I WILL HAVE T
FIND THE RIGHT MOMENT TO APPROACH THE SUBJECT WITH THE
COOK. >> SO YOU DON’T COOK THE WHOLE
FISH? >> WE CAN, BUT WE KEEP OUR
TRADITION. YOU KNOW, YOU JUST MOVE TEN
KILOMETERS AND EVERYTHING CHANGES.
>> REALLY? >> THIS IS THE NICE AND
DIFFICULTY OF ITALY. I THINK IT’S SOMETHING THAT IS
THE ITALIAN DNA. WE SAY IT’S NOT DIFFICULT TO
FERMENT THE ITALIANS ‐‐ >> NOW WE ARE GOING TO COOK IT.
WE NEED BUTTER. SAGE HERE WITH THE BUTTER AND
THE GARLIC. >> SO TELL ME ABOUT THE
POLITICAL CLIMATE IN ITALY NOW. >> IT’S VERY DIFFICULT TO MAKE
GOOD FOR ALL OF THIS FOR ITALIANS, BECAUSE SOMETHING THAT
IS GOOD IN THE SOUTH MAYBE IS NOT GOOD IN THE NORTH, YOU KNOW.
MR. SALVEINY IS ONE POLITICIAN. >> YOU WORK ALL OVER THE WORLD.
WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT HIS ATTITUDE TOWARDS IMMIGRANTS?
>> IN ITALY, WE DON’T HAVE THE SYSTEM TO BRING THESE PEOPLE AND
HELP THESE PEOPLE. >> SALVENY, HE SAYS DON’T BRING
THE PEOPLE IN, STOP THEM COMPLETELY, EVEN IF THEY DROWN,
WE ARE NOT GOING TO LET THEM OFF THE BOAT.
I CAN UNDERSTAND LIMITATIONS OF IMMIGRATION, AND IT’S HARD TO
SWALLOW TO SAY THERE ARE CHILDREN AND PREGNANT WOMEN AND
WE ARE NOT GOING TO LET THEM OFF THE BOAT.
>> I THE BOAT.
>> YES, I AGREE. WHY NO MORE PEOPLE HERE?
THERE IS NOT ENOUGH SPACE. WE WOULD LIKE TO HAVE GOOD FOOD,
GOOD SPACE, IT IS NOT IN OUR DNA.
>> BEAUTIFUL. >> YOU SPEAK ABOUT SALVINI, YOU
HAVE TO SPEAK ABOUT THE RISE. >> IT’S TRUE.
>> YOU ARE ITALIAN. EVEN IF YOU DON’T AGREE ‐‐
>> I WANTED TO TALK YOU ABOUT IT BECAUSE I AGREE THAT THERE DO
HAVE TO BE RULES IN PLACE. HOWEVER, ONE OF THE REASONS
AMERICA IS THE WAY IT IS TODAY IS BECAUSE IT ACCEPTED MILLIONS
OF ITALIAN IMMIGRANTS. AND THAT IS WHAT I THINK ‐‐
THAT’S THE ISSUE I HAVE WITH SALVINI.
BECAUSE WHAT WE’RE DOING IS WE’RE MAKING AN ATTEMPT TO
REGULATE THE HUMAN INSTINCT OF SAVING PEOPLE.
>> WHY SALVINI TRY. >> IT’S REALLY GOOD.
OH MY GOD. >> NEXT TIME WE INVITE SALVINI.
I KNOW HIM. >> YOU DO?
>> YEAH. >> IS HE A NICE GUY?
>> YES, LIKE ME. >> I’M NOT SO SURE I WOULD LIKE
TO COME BACK AND MEET SALVINI, BUT I’D BE VERY HAPPY TO COME
BACK AND SEE WILLIAM AGAIN. I WAS SURPRISED WILLIAM
SUGGESTED THAT AS AN ITALIAN, I SHOULD CARE MORE ABOUT FOOD THAN
POLITICS, BECAUSE I BELIEVE THE TWO THINGS ARE CONNECTED.
HOSPITALITY CAN ALSO BE A POLITICAL CHOICE
♪ >>> YOU HAPPY TO BE BACK IN LAKE
COMO? >> OF COURSE I AM.
IT’S AMAZING. >> THIS IS WHERE WE MET.
>> HAVE YOU GOT SOME POETRY? >> NOT ON ME.
>> I TRIED TO COME TO LAKE COMO WITHOUT MY WIFE, FELICITY, BUT
SHE FOLLOWED ME. ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL ‐‐
>> I LOVE THAT YOU HAVE ‐‐ >> IT’S NOT SILLY TO SAY ‐‐
>> YOU’VE GOT THIS ON THE LAKE AND THE SNOW PEAKS.
WHAT IS THAT MOUNTAIN RANGE RIGHT THERE?
>> THAT’S THE BEGINNING OF THE ALPS.
AS MUCH AS FELICITY AND I LOVE SPENDING TIME HERE BY THE LAKE,
THERE IS A PLACE IN MILAN THAT I WANT TO SHOW HER THAT IS DOING
SOMETHING EXTRAORDINARY. A RESTAURANT IN THE CENTER
EMBODIES THE SPIRIT AND HISTORY OF MILAN LIKE ALMOST NOWHERE
ELSE. [ SPEAK ITALIAN ]
>> ANGELO BSALOTTI IS THE MASTERMIND BEHIND THE HAVEN FOR
THE HARDWORKING MILANESE. >> FELICITY.
NICE TO MEET YOU. HI!
>> WHEN ANGELO ACQUIRED THIS PLACE 30 YEARS AGO, HIS MISSION
WAS TO CREATE AN AUTHENTIC OSTERIA, ACCESSIBLE TO EVERYONE.
YOU CAN HAVE LUNCH HERE EVERY DAY FOR LESS THAN $11, HANG OUT
IN THE AFTERNOON. BUT IN THE EVENING, THIS BECOMES
A HOT SPOT, CELEBRATING THE REGION’S FINEST FOODS AND
ENTERTAINMENT. >> OH MY GOD, THAT LOOKS
DELICIOUS. >> WE’RE JOINED BY ANGELO’S
NEPHEW FRANCESCO. >> THIS IS NICE.
>> YEAH. >> AND OUR MUTUAL FRIEND, THE
ACTRESS LAILA COSTA. >> OH, GOD, IT’S AMAZING.
>> OH MY GOD. >> OH, BEAUTIFUL.
>> SEE? YEAH.
>> FOR A LONG TIME, IT’S BEEN THE ONLY PLACE WHERE PEOPLE
COULD GO AFFORD TO GO AND EAT OUT THAT WASN’T EXPENSIVE.
>> YEAH?
[ SPEAKING ITALIAN ] >> ANGELO COULDN’T HAVE PICKED A
BETTER LOCATION FOR HIS OSTERIA AS THIS PLACE WAS CREATED BY THE
WORKERS, FOR THE WORKERS. >> REALLY?
>>. [ SPEAKING ITALIAN ]
>> FIRST RAILROAD WORKERS STRIKE WAS HERE IN THIS PLACE.
>> THEY USE IT TO HELP EACH OTHER.
THEY USE IT FOR A WHOLE PLACE TO HAVE DANCES OR TO LISTEN TO
MUSIC, TO FILL THIS PLACE. >> AND IN ESSENCE, THEY CREATE A
UNION? >> YEAH.
>> WITH MASHED POTATOES. THIS IS SOMETHING FOR THE
WORKERS. >> DELICIOUS.
ANGELO HAS BRILLIANTLY RECREATED THE SPIRIT OF THE OSTERIA.
♪ SNOT
♪ BEFORE I STARTED THIS TRIP, I
NEVER WOULD HAVE IMAGINED SUCH A PLACE COULD EXIST IN FASHIONABLE
MILAN. THIS SEEMS LIKE A MILLION MILES
AWAY FROM THE NEARBY STOCK EXCHANGE.
♪ THE TRENDY BARS AND THE LUXURY
BRAND STORES. HERE IN THIS MILAN, I RECOGNIZE
THE POWER OF THE PIONEERS THAT CHANGED THE FACE OF ITALY
THROUGH SHEER HARD WORK. THIS PLACE FOR ME IS LIVING