1
00:00:01,800 --> 00:00:05,175
I really have very few memories
of it.
2
00:00:06,760 --> 00:00:11,015
I've been dreaming of coming back
to Calabria since I was a boy.
3
00:00:11,040 --> 00:00:13,855
I don't remember it
being this green.
4
00:00:13,880 --> 00:00:15,935
It's absolutely beautiful.
5
00:00:15,960 --> 00:00:19,815
It's a wild and rugged region,
steeped in mystery and myth.
6
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A place that's as troubled
as it is beautiful.
7
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But Calabria means
something more to me.
8
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It's my ancestral homeland,
and I want to get to know the region
9
00:00:30,680 --> 00:00:33,815
that my family left behind
all those years ago.
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00:00:33,840 --> 00:00:35,455
Is this jogging your memory at all?
11
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It's a long time ago.
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I'm Stanley Tucci.
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I'm Italian on both sides.
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And I'm travelling across Italy
to discover how the food in each
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00:00:43,120 --> 00:00:46,735
of this country's 20 regions
is as unique as the people
16
00:00:46,760 --> 00:00:48,575
and their past.
17
00:00:48,600 --> 00:00:50,695
Caught between a rock and the sea,
18
00:00:50,720 --> 00:00:53,175
the Calabrese are
notoriously tough.
19
00:00:57,160 --> 00:01:02,375
But this is a place where Southern
hospitality is a way of life.
20
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Oh, my gosh, look at the size of it.
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You should open a restaurant!
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And in this poor region,
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every meal is a celebration.
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Oh, wow! That's like a million
different flavours in there.
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Calabria sits in the toe of the boot
of Italy, connected to Basilicata
26
00:01:43,400 --> 00:01:46,775
in the north and separated
from Sicily in the south,
27
00:01:46,800 --> 00:01:49,255
only by the narrow strait
of Messina.
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It's a region of rugged landscapes,
dramatic mountain ranges and some
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00:01:53,720 --> 00:01:56,175
500 miles of incredible coastline.
30
00:01:57,600 --> 00:01:59,655
It doesn't have that infrastructure.
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It's still a lot of abandoned
buildings, a lot of poverty,
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00:02:02,600 --> 00:02:04,535
a lot of corruption.
33
00:02:04,560 --> 00:02:07,735
It's really unfortunate
because it is magnificent.
34
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Like millions of Calabrians,
all four of my grandparents
35
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emigrated from this region
with nothing
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00:02:13,800 --> 00:02:15,895
but the clothes on their backs.
37
00:02:15,920 --> 00:02:19,015
So I'm headed first to see
the birthplace of my grandfather,
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Stan is law Tucci, the man
who my father and I are named after.
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00:02:24,200 --> 00:02:27,655
The town of Marzi,
population, 900,
40
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and happily, I'm being joined
by two semi-experienced guides,
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00:02:32,360 --> 00:02:35,295
my parents, Joan and Stan Tucci.
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Wow, look at that.
Oh, look at the door.
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That's beautiful.
44
00:02:39,000 --> 00:02:40,095
This is nice.
45
00:02:40,120 --> 00:02:41,735
We're walking down Via Morti.
46
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Yeah, I saw that.
The street of the dead.
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00:02:43,640 --> 00:02:45,455
How nice.
I'm not going down there.
48
00:02:45,480 --> 00:02:46,495
No, don't go there.
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00:02:50,960 --> 00:02:54,695
My father has been to Marzi once
before, and because our family
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00:02:54,720 --> 00:02:58,255
is obsessed with our ancestry,
he suggested we pay a visit
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00:02:58,280 --> 00:03:00,455
to the local town hall
to see what we can dig up
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about my grandfather's life.
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00:03:14,640 --> 00:03:17,855
So, what year,
1889?
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00:03:17,880 --> 00:03:19,455
My father.
1889.
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00:03:21,560 --> 00:03:22,615
OK, 89.
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00:03:22,640 --> 00:03:23,655
89.
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00:03:26,040 --> 00:03:27,735
There you go.
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00:03:27,760 --> 00:03:30,135
Stanislav. Yeah.
Oh, wow.
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00:03:30,160 --> 00:03:32,495
Scarpellino,
that was his mother?
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00:03:32,520 --> 00:03:35,495
Scarpellino is your vocation.
Yeah.
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00:03:35,520 --> 00:03:37,375
Stone carver.
Oh, a stone carver?
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00:03:37,400 --> 00:03:38,975
So he was born in 89.
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00:03:39,000 --> 00:03:41,815
When did he come to America?
1904.
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00:03:41,840 --> 00:03:44,335
So that makes him 15, 16 years old.
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00:03:44,360 --> 00:03:46,815
Did he ever come back
to see his parents? Once.
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00:03:46,840 --> 00:03:48,775
They never came to America?
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00:03:48,800 --> 00:03:51,655
So he only basically saw
his mother one more time,
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00:03:51,680 --> 00:03:53,975
from the time he was 16, 15, 16.
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00:03:54,000 --> 00:03:56,175
It's amazing.
Yeah, it's incredible.
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00:03:56,200 --> 00:03:58,295
Ancl a lot of immigrants did.
I know, I know.
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00:03:58,320 --> 00:04:00,855
For a culture that is so
family orientated... I know.
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00:04:00,880 --> 00:04:03,055
...to just move away
is hard to believe.
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00:04:06,760 --> 00:04:08,895
Oh, there you go, Dad.
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00:04:08,920 --> 00:04:10,575
Look, it's your family home.
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00:04:10,600 --> 00:04:13,695
Familia Tucci.
Yeah. Let's go in!
76
00:04:13,720 --> 00:04:16,775
Wow.
Could be a relative. Yeah.
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00:04:16,800 --> 00:04:21,535
As it turns out, being a Tucci
isn't that remarkable over here.
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00:04:21,560 --> 00:04:26,535
Over half of Marzi's population
shares our last name...
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00:04:26,560 --> 00:04:29,015
Is this what you remember?
80
00:04:29,040 --> 00:04:31,375
...which turns out to be a big
problem as my dad wants
81
00:04:31,400 --> 00:04:33,295
to find his father's house.
82
00:04:33,320 --> 00:04:35,695
My recollection,
it was perfectly flat.
83
00:04:35,720 --> 00:04:38,495
Ancl there was a place with a...
Let's go.
84
00:04:38,520 --> 00:04:40,895
...huge clock at the top.
85
00:04:40,920 --> 00:04:43,775
This is the clock
that you just said, right?
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00:04:43,800 --> 00:04:46,135
You remember a flat area?
Yeah, a flat area.
87
00:04:46,160 --> 00:04:48,135
But do you remember where
the house is?
88
00:04:48,160 --> 00:04:50,615
I think it was down here.
89
00:04:50,640 --> 00:04:52,535
Watch your step.
Yes.
90
00:04:52,560 --> 00:04:54,215
Is this jogging your memory at all?
91
00:04:54,240 --> 00:04:56,415
It's a long time ago,
that I remember.
92
00:04:56,440 --> 00:04:58,255
I remember the square.
93
00:04:58,280 --> 00:04:59,295
28.
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00:05:03,120 --> 00:05:04,455
That's number 30.
95
00:05:04,480 --> 00:05:06,855
Then that's it.
96
00:05:06,880 --> 00:05:10,415
So this, we think, could be the
house where your father was born.
97
00:05:10,440 --> 00:05:13,095
It's only the second time,
and obviously memory fades.
98
00:05:13,120 --> 00:05:14,695
Yes, I know, I know.
99
00:05:14,720 --> 00:05:17,295
I've always wanted to come here,
you know, because I never came...
100
00:05:17,320 --> 00:05:19,975
No. ..when we were young.
But we're glad we saw the town.
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00:05:20,000 --> 00:05:21,775
This town? Yeah, so pretty.
102
00:05:21,800 --> 00:05:23,535
Yeah.
Should we eat?
103
00:05:23,560 --> 00:05:25,415
Sure.
Sounds like a good idea.
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00:05:25,440 --> 00:05:27,575
Is there a restaurant called Tucci?
Maybe.
105
00:05:27,600 --> 00:05:30,735
But I'm not going to let
you try to find it.
106
00:05:31,960 --> 00:05:34,055
Marzi sits in the
valley of the Savuto,
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00:05:34,080 --> 00:05:35,895
known as the valley of wheat,
108
00:05:35,920 --> 00:05:39,655
where, fed by the mineral
rich waters of the mountains,
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00:05:39,680 --> 00:05:45,255
there's a thousand year old history
of bread making, and there's a place
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00:05:45,280 --> 00:05:50,055
nearby still making bread, according
to ancient Calabrian tradition.
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00:05:50,080 --> 00:05:51,615
WOW!
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00:05:54,160 --> 00:05:55,535
Stamey,
113
00:05:55,560 --> 00:05:56,935
Giovanna.
114
00:06:01,440 --> 00:06:04,255
Pina Olivetti runs Panificio Cuti,
115
00:06:04,280 --> 00:06:07,575
one of the most famous artisanal
bakeries in the region.
116
00:06:15,240 --> 00:06:17,815
Oh, my God,
it is very heavy.
117
00:06:17,840 --> 00:06:20,135
That's a heavy bread.
Yeah!
118
00:06:33,800 --> 00:06:37,015
Sour dough is a living, breathing
bread that has been made
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00:06:37,040 --> 00:06:40,015
since the beginning of human
civilisation, but is somehow
120
00:06:40,040 --> 00:06:42,495
still notoriously tricky
to get right.
121
00:06:42,520 --> 00:06:44,415
Oh, my gosh, it's so hot.
122
00:06:47,360 --> 00:06:51,855
Its slow, natural fermentation means
this bread stays fresh much longer
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00:06:51,880 --> 00:06:53,415
than ordinary bread.
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00:06:53,440 --> 00:06:56,535
No trivial matter in a region
where food wasn't always plentiful.
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00:07:17,920 --> 00:07:20,455
Knowing we've come to Marzi
in search of things past,
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00:07:20,480 --> 00:07:22,495
Pina's prepared us a little treat
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00:07:22,520 --> 00:07:26,495
that would have been on every family
table 100 years ago, a filled bread
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00:07:26,520 --> 00:07:30,335
bowl called morzello, which is
typically stuffed with meat
129
00:07:30,360 --> 00:07:34,215
and seasonal vegetables like
local favourite, cime di rapa,
130
00:07:34,240 --> 00:07:35,895
or broccoli rabe.
131
00:07:41,320 --> 00:07:42,935
The bitterness of that...
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00:07:53,000 --> 00:07:56,655
This ingeniously portable dish
meant that farmers, hunters
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00:07:56,680 --> 00:07:58,855
and even stonemasons
like my grandfather
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00:07:58,880 --> 00:08:03,655
could carry a not so little slice
of home anywhere they went.
135
00:08:18,240 --> 00:08:19,495
That's beautiful.
136
00:08:33,360 --> 00:08:35,495
Oh, my gosh, look at the size of it.
137
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No, you're first!
138
00:08:51,800 --> 00:08:54,455
Delicious. Delicious.
So good.
139
00:08:54,480 --> 00:08:56,615
It's all sunk in.
140
00:08:58,640 --> 00:09:01,215
That's good for you.
That's great. Delicious.
141
00:09:04,360 --> 00:09:08,295
As we head out of Marzi, I think
of my grandfather Stan is law leaving
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00:09:08,320 --> 00:09:12,775
Calabria and of that special bond
that Italian immigrants have to food
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00:09:12,800 --> 00:09:15,655
that reminds them of home.
144
00:09:15,680 --> 00:09:19,575
Perhaps that's why bread
is never missing on our table.
145
00:09:27,880 --> 00:09:31,575
While my parents are relaxing
by the pool, or the bar,
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00:09:31,600 --> 00:09:34,655
I'm heading out to a place
I've always wanted to visit.
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00:09:36,240 --> 00:09:40,055
Built atop a 150-foot cliff,
overlooking the warm waters
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00:09:40,080 --> 00:09:41,815
of the Tyrrhenian Sea,
149
00:09:41,840 --> 00:09:44,055
Tropea is Calabria's
crown jewel.
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00:09:45,360 --> 00:09:48,895
Over the centuries, it's been prone
to almost constant invasions
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00:09:48,920 --> 00:09:51,775
from neighbouring empires
who all wanted to possess
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00:09:51,800 --> 00:09:53,775
this enchanting town.
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00:09:53,800 --> 00:09:55,775
But I'm here to wrap my head
around something
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of a botanical mystery.
155
00:10:00,640 --> 00:10:05,095
Tropea is renowned all across Italy
for its singular red onions.
156
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They are so sweet they can be served
in everything from pastas
157
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to preserves, even in ice cream,
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if you're so inclined.
159
00:10:12,240 --> 00:10:13,535
I'm not.
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00:10:23,360 --> 00:10:25,615
To find out what makes these onions
so special,
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00:10:25,640 --> 00:10:29,255
I'm meeting up with Tropean
restaurateur, Michael Pugliese.
162
00:10:52,360 --> 00:10:56,015
Despite their incredible popularity,
the Tropea onion only grows
163
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in a small stretch of coastline
surrounding the city.
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Just a few miles further out,
165
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and it loses that sweetness
that makes it unique.
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Wow.
167
00:11:27,160 --> 00:11:29,135
Yeah, that's gorgeous.
168
00:11:49,120 --> 00:11:51,335
First grown here over 3,000
years ago,
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00:11:51,360 --> 00:11:54,575
Tropea onions were an unexpected
gift brought by foreign conquerors
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00:11:54,600 --> 00:11:56,455
from the Middle East.
171
00:12:35,840 --> 00:12:37,295
Though today the Tropea Onion
172
00:12:37,320 --> 00:12:39,095
is beginning to be produced
commercially,
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00:12:39,120 --> 00:12:42,855
there are still a few farmers left
like Francesco and Onofrio,
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00:12:42,880 --> 00:12:45,455
who harvest their onions
by hand using only
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00:12:45,480 --> 00:12:48,575
traditional irrigation methods.
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00:13:38,520 --> 00:13:42,335
Despite having suffered invasions
for over 3,000 years, Calabrians
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00:13:42,360 --> 00:13:44,295
are tenaciously hospitable.
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So Michael is not allowing me
to leave Tropea before eating
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something at his restaurant,
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00:13:50,520 --> 00:13:54,695
Osteria delta Cipolla Ross a,
The Red Onion Inn.
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00:14:01,960 --> 00:14:05,935
The restaurant is run by Michael's
wife, Roman a, who is so obsessed
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00:14:05,960 --> 00:14:09,695
with farm to table dining
that she refuses to own a fridge.
183
00:14:24,760 --> 00:14:27,815
The Osteria's specialty
is the unapologetically simple
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00:14:27,840 --> 00:14:29,655
red onion spaghetti.
185
00:14:29,680 --> 00:14:32,615
But don't underestimate simplicity.
186
00:15:12,600 --> 00:15:13,855
Oh, my gosh!
187
00:15:36,800 --> 00:15:38,895
That's delicious.
188
00:15:38,920 --> 00:15:41,655
There's nothing to this
but onions, broth and pasta.
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00:15:41,680 --> 00:15:44,855
But the combination of these
three simple ingredients
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00:15:44,880 --> 00:15:47,495
becomes something sublime.
191
00:15:47,520 --> 00:15:49,015
Oniony, but it's not oniony.
192
00:15:49,040 --> 00:15:50,655
I don't know how to describe it.
193
00:16:01,680 --> 00:16:04,295
It's hard not to be enchanted
by the beauty of Tropea
194
00:16:04,320 --> 00:16:08,015
and its unique red onions, but to me
the real magic of this place
195
00:16:08,040 --> 00:16:11,135
is the warmth and hospitality
of its people.
196
00:16:20,720 --> 00:16:24,135
The Calabrians have always had
to rely on the sea for sustenance
197
00:16:24,160 --> 00:16:26,575
and surrounded by water
on three sides,
198
00:16:26,600 --> 00:16:29,935
the catch here is as unique
as it is plentiful.
199
00:16:32,040 --> 00:16:33,455
Look at that. Silver snake.
200
00:16:33,480 --> 00:16:35,935
God, they're incredible.
Yes. They look fake!
201
00:16:39,400 --> 00:16:43,975
I've come to a Calabrian fish
auction to get a sense of the catch.
202
00:16:51,960 --> 00:16:56,095
But because I'm a fish out of water,
respected restaurateur,
203
00:16:56,120 --> 00:16:59,055
Gianni Giordano
is showing me around.
204
00:16:59,080 --> 00:17:01,415
Is it octopus?
Octopus. Everything?
205
00:17:01,440 --> 00:17:03,615
Everything right here.
206
00:17:03,640 --> 00:17:07,695
Tuna, swordfish,
sharks.
207
00:17:07,720 --> 00:17:10,015
Oh, this is a biggest squid.
208
00:17:10,040 --> 00:17:11,415
Calamari.
209
00:17:13,080 --> 00:17:15,495
He screams all the time.
210
00:17:15,520 --> 00:17:20,655
You've got to fight with everybody
because nobody got to take the fish.
211
00:17:20,680 --> 00:17:24,015
No sea creature is more respected
or prized in Calabria
212
00:17:24,040 --> 00:17:25,495
than the swordfish.
213
00:17:25,520 --> 00:17:28,495
Catching one of these sabred
sea monsters is not easy,
214
00:17:28,520 --> 00:17:30,175
but it is lucrative.
215
00:17:30,200 --> 00:17:32,935
A single fish can fetch
up to $5,000.
216
00:17:37,360 --> 00:17:39,415
Yesterday, 20? 20, really?
217
00:17:39,440 --> 00:17:41,455
Today, only one.
Every clay it's different.
218
00:17:41,480 --> 00:17:43,495
Every day is different, yeah.
You want to buy it?
219
00:17:43,520 --> 00:17:45,775
I don't have room in my hotel!
220
00:17:49,800 --> 00:17:53,615
Gionni's promised some fresh
swordfish awaits me at his place.
221
00:17:53,640 --> 00:17:56,375
But before getting lunch,
we stop off to have a look
222
00:17:56,400 --> 00:17:58,775
at his hometown, Scilla.
223
00:17:58,800 --> 00:18:01,895
This town dates back to a time
when Calabria was at the heart
224
00:18:01,920 --> 00:18:03,655
of Magna Graecia,
225
00:18:03,680 --> 00:18:06,375
Greece's empire in Italy.
226
00:18:06,400 --> 00:18:07,455
WOW!
227
00:18:07,480 --> 00:18:10,175
That's Sicily?
Yes, it's Sicily.
228
00:18:10,200 --> 00:18:13,575
The other side of this is Scilla.
229
00:18:13,600 --> 00:18:16,335
Ancient Greek legends
like the Odyssey,
230
00:18:16,360 --> 00:18:19,655
told of the perilous passage
in this narrow strait where sailors
231
00:18:19,680 --> 00:18:22,975
were forced to choose between
a vicious sea monster called Scilla
232
00:18:23,000 --> 00:18:25,095
and a deadly whirlpool.
233
00:18:28,920 --> 00:18:30,375
Is this true or...
234
00:18:30,400 --> 00:18:32,215
No, it's true.
It's true.
235
00:18:46,440 --> 00:18:49,135
If they catch swordfish.
236
00:18:49,160 --> 00:18:52,175
Remarkably, a traditional form
of sword fishing passed down
237
00:18:52,200 --> 00:18:55,415
from the ancient Greeks is
still practised here in the waters
238
00:18:55,440 --> 00:18:57,175
around Scilla to this day.
239
00:19:35,680 --> 00:19:38,975
We're heading to the family's
restaurant, the Prince of Scilla,
240
00:19:39,000 --> 00:19:41,295
and I'm in for the royal treatment.
241
00:19:41,320 --> 00:19:43,495
This one.
Nice fish.
242
00:19:46,280 --> 00:19:49,135
This swordfish was caught
so recently you can eat it
243
00:19:49,160 --> 00:19:50,415
straight off the bone.
244
00:20:01,680 --> 00:20:04,495
Caught this fresh
and sliced this fine,
245
00:20:04,520 --> 00:20:07,135
it's like prosciutto
and smoked salmon
246
00:20:07,160 --> 00:20:09,655
had a lovechild.
247
00:20:09,680 --> 00:20:11,695
Oh, so good.
248
00:20:17,480 --> 00:20:20,895
Next, Gionni wants to cook me
something more traditional,
249
00:20:20,920 --> 00:20:25,295
scialatielli alla gurta, long, thin
strands of pasta in a swordfish
250
00:20:25,320 --> 00:20:26,935
ragu, of sorts.
251
00:20:28,240 --> 00:20:32,335
He starts things off with a sofrito
of garlic and sweet Tropea onion.
252
00:20:43,400 --> 00:20:44,575
Yeah.
253
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:51,215
I'd like to have a shirt
made out of this.
254
00:21:11,080 --> 00:21:13,335
Thank you for coming.
Thank you for having me.
255
00:21:18,800 --> 00:21:20,215
Is it good?
256
00:21:26,440 --> 00:21:28,255
Yeah.
257
00:21:28,280 --> 00:21:29,295
Yep.
258
00:21:29,320 --> 00:21:31,415
You should open a restaurant!
259
00:21:32,800 --> 00:21:34,055
That's really good.
260
00:21:34,080 --> 00:21:35,655
And see the swordfish boats?
261
00:21:35,680 --> 00:21:38,415
And they're up in the
crow's nest up there.
262
00:21:38,440 --> 00:21:40,055
It's really beautiful.
263
00:21:41,480 --> 00:21:43,975
It's curious to think of Calabrians
still heading out
264
00:21:44,000 --> 00:21:47,895
into these perilous waters to battle
against ancient sea monsters.
265
00:21:47,920 --> 00:21:52,655
But in this land of myth and legend,
the sea is a mirror to the soul.
266
00:22:05,080 --> 00:22:07,415
Look at those mountains.
267
00:22:07,440 --> 00:22:10,535
I'm leaving Calabria's coast behind
and heading deep
268
00:22:10,560 --> 00:22:14,055
into the back country of
the As pro Monte mountains.
269
00:22:14,080 --> 00:22:17,455
Rugged and shrouded in folklore,
few tend to venture
270
00:22:17,480 --> 00:22:20,455
through its impenetrable forests.
271
00:22:20,480 --> 00:22:23,375
But I'm heading to meet a chef who's
opened a restaurant in this most
272
00:22:23,400 --> 00:22:25,255
remote corner of Calabria.
273
00:22:29,560 --> 00:22:33,015
This river that flows in our
property is called the Calabretto
274
00:22:33,040 --> 00:22:37,535
and comes directly from
our big mountain, the As pro Monte.
275
00:22:37,560 --> 00:22:40,055
All the southern part
of Calabria
276
00:22:40,080 --> 00:22:43,175
is just surrounded by As pro Monte.
277
00:22:43,200 --> 00:22:47,215
Nino Rossi has been living
and working out here since 2016,
278
00:22:47,240 --> 00:22:50,175
making food that celebrates
the unique biodiversity
279
00:22:50,200 --> 00:22:52,015
of this mountain.
280
00:22:52,040 --> 00:22:55,055
And this land's been in your family
for many generations?
281
00:22:55,080 --> 00:22:57,055
I think we are sixth generation.
282
00:22:57,080 --> 00:22:58,535
Did you grow up here?
283
00:22:58,560 --> 00:23:03,855
I grew up in Rome, but I never
stopped being a Calabrian child.
284
00:23:03,880 --> 00:23:08,135
Growing up in a well-to-do family
1,000 thousand miles away from here,
285
00:23:08,160 --> 00:23:12,015
Nino's keen interest in traditional
Calabrian cooking came as a bit
286
00:23:12,040 --> 00:23:14,575
of a surprise to his friends
and family.
287
00:23:14,600 --> 00:23:16,095
You didn't train as a chef?
288
00:23:16,120 --> 00:23:18,095
I am a self-taught chef.
289
00:23:18,120 --> 00:23:22,775
But at the same time, in the past,
I had the opportunity to learn
290
00:23:22,800 --> 00:23:25,975
from an ancient housekeeper
called Maria.
291
00:23:26,000 --> 00:23:29,695
Ancl that's the way I got
all the cuisine from the people.
292
00:23:29,720 --> 00:23:33,855
Then I put all the things together
and I started just experimenting.
293
00:23:33,880 --> 00:23:37,895
Once I would like to learn
how to make pastry.
294
00:23:37,920 --> 00:23:39,455
I start only make pastries.
295
00:23:39,480 --> 00:23:43,375
So if you invite myself to a dinner,
I would just show up
296
00:23:43,400 --> 00:23:45,535
with one of my cakes and
say, "Oh, this is for you."
297
00:23:45,560 --> 00:23:47,495
You became obsessive?
Yeah.
298
00:23:47,520 --> 00:23:48,855
Obsessive, yes.
299
00:23:48,880 --> 00:23:52,455
Over the last few years, Nino's
obsession has driven him to turn
300
00:23:52,480 --> 00:23:55,535
this remote area into
his culinary playground.
301
00:23:57,120 --> 00:23:59,975
So this is where you do
your foraging? Yeah.
302
00:24:00,000 --> 00:24:02,655
I used to walk along the river
303
00:24:02,680 --> 00:24:05,575
and then go also higher
into the mountain.
304
00:24:05,600 --> 00:24:09,415
But here you can find
a lot of special things.
305
00:24:09,440 --> 00:24:10,975
This is the water mint.
306
00:24:11,000 --> 00:24:15,015
It's wild and has
a strong, citrus taste.
307
00:24:15,040 --> 00:24:16,615
An orange taste.
308
00:24:18,600 --> 00:24:20,975
Yeah. You know that once,
I poisoned myself.
309
00:24:21,000 --> 00:24:22,535
So this is safe?
No, this is safe.
310
00:24:22,560 --> 00:24:24,095
I'm going to make it through?
311
00:24:24,120 --> 00:24:26,495
What did you poison yourself with?
312
00:24:26,520 --> 00:24:28,135
What was it? With the crocus?
313
00:24:28,160 --> 00:24:31,335
Ancl I thought it was white garlic.
314
00:24:31,360 --> 00:24:35,895
Ancl it was really... Yes,
that can be very bad for you.
315
00:24:35,920 --> 00:24:39,575
Yeah, but I studied a lot.
That's good.
316
00:24:39,600 --> 00:24:42,175
Ancl I pretty know everything
about this place.
317
00:24:42,200 --> 00:24:44,135
From the upper part,
318
00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:46,855
we take the silver fir
and I show you.
319
00:24:50,000 --> 00:24:51,615
It's just a fir tree.
320
00:24:51,640 --> 00:24:52,735
White fir.
321
00:24:53,960 --> 00:24:55,575
Yeah, it's nice.
322
00:24:55,600 --> 00:24:57,095
Really aromatic.
323
00:24:57,120 --> 00:24:59,135
Yes, I love it.
324
00:24:59,160 --> 00:25:00,495
So should we go cook?
Yeah.
325
00:25:00,520 --> 00:25:02,295
I'm going to cook for you.
All right.
326
00:25:02,320 --> 00:25:06,015
Nina's restaurant is a love letter
to the As pro Monte
327
00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:09,575
and the unique and undiscovered
ingredients that can be found only
328
00:25:09,600 --> 00:25:11,135
here on the mountain.
329
00:25:14,040 --> 00:25:16,055
Today, he's preparing me a dish
330
00:25:16,080 --> 00:25:18,295
that has helped cement
his Michelin star.
331
00:25:18,320 --> 00:25:20,295
A dessert called Fire.
332
00:25:20,320 --> 00:25:21,735
This is a meringue.
333
00:25:21,760 --> 00:25:23,975
So it's just egg white and sugar?
334
00:25:24,000 --> 00:25:28,135
Ancl we put this vegetable
carbon powder.
335
00:25:28,160 --> 00:25:30,735
So this is just charcoal?
Yep.
336
00:25:30,760 --> 00:25:32,375
What did people think about it?
337
00:25:32,400 --> 00:25:35,255
A lot of people think that putting
charcoal in a meringue,
338
00:25:35,280 --> 00:25:37,855
it was something a little bit crazy.
339
00:25:39,280 --> 00:25:45,015
In 2021, over 60 wildfires ravaged
Calabria, leaving a trail of death
340
00:25:45,040 --> 00:25:48,975
and devastation in Nina's
beloved mountains.
341
00:25:49,000 --> 00:25:53,375
Foraging was completely different
after the fire because you can see
342
00:25:53,400 --> 00:25:55,815
a lot of mountainsides
completely black.
343
00:25:55,840 --> 00:25:59,295
But at the same time, walking
around, you can see all this strong
344
00:25:59,320 --> 00:26:02,455
nature and colours going
through the ground. Right.
345
00:26:02,480 --> 00:26:07,015
Ancl just go up and show
its greatness.
346
00:26:07,040 --> 00:26:11,855
Then I came back home and say,
OK, I have to tribute the mountain.
347
00:26:13,680 --> 00:26:18,135
Nino's obsessive baking has paid off
in this tribute to the mountain.
348
00:26:18,160 --> 00:26:19,655
It looks like glass.
349
00:26:19,680 --> 00:26:22,655
After three hours in the oven,
the notoriously temperamental
350
00:26:22,680 --> 00:26:26,135
meringue is perfectly
light and crisp.
351
00:26:26,160 --> 00:26:30,535
Here we have silver fir balls,
it's a silver fir extract,
352
00:26:30,560 --> 00:26:31,895
water and lemon.
353
00:26:31,920 --> 00:26:36,535
We make a base like this,
and then we bring the apple.
354
00:26:36,560 --> 00:26:38,255
So the apples come from
the mountains?
355
00:26:38,280 --> 00:26:40,055
Yes, comes from As pro Monte.
356
00:26:40,080 --> 00:26:42,055
I put the white chocolate foam.
357
00:26:43,400 --> 00:26:45,895
I put back the white fir.
358
00:26:45,920 --> 00:26:51,135
We had to call this dessert
New Life After The Fire.
359
00:26:51,160 --> 00:26:55,615
Because what we are building now
is a new life, giving the second
360
00:26:55,640 --> 00:26:57,655
opportunity to the mountain.
361
00:26:59,280 --> 00:27:01,855
Ancl this is like the last
minutes of a fire.
362
00:27:01,880 --> 00:27:03,295
Yes, absolutely.
363
00:27:03,320 --> 00:27:06,215
You have to taste it.
I will, thank you.
364
00:27:12,080 --> 00:27:13,975
Oh, wow!
365
00:27:14,000 --> 00:27:16,255
That's like a million different
flavours in there.
366
00:27:16,280 --> 00:27:17,895
That's amazing.
367
00:27:17,920 --> 00:27:20,335
Citric ancl balsamic.
Yeah.
368
00:27:20,360 --> 00:27:21,695
Ancl I love it.
369
00:27:21,720 --> 00:27:23,215
Oh, that's amazing.
370
00:27:23,240 --> 00:27:24,535
I'm just, keeps like...
371
00:27:24,560 --> 00:27:25,895
Ancl with the apple and...
372
00:27:25,920 --> 00:27:28,895
Yeah, yeah, absolutely.
373
00:27:28,920 --> 00:27:30,455
That's just...
374
00:27:33,240 --> 00:27:35,295
That's great.
375
00:27:35,320 --> 00:27:37,255
WOW!
376
00:27:37,280 --> 00:27:38,495
Thank you.
377
00:27:38,520 --> 00:27:41,015
It's not fancy tricks
nor strange ingredients
378
00:27:41,040 --> 00:27:42,815
that make Nina's food extraordinary.
379
00:27:42,840 --> 00:27:46,735
It's that he's managed to perfectly
capture the alchemy and enduring
380
00:27:46,760 --> 00:27:48,815
beauty of this place.
381
00:27:57,520 --> 00:28:01,055
I've come to the northernmost
point of Calabria's As pro Monte,
382
00:28:01,080 --> 00:28:03,455
to the mountain hamlet of Martone.
383
00:28:07,280 --> 00:28:09,935
It's a town that's ailing
from an issue that's rampant
384
00:28:09,960 --> 00:28:11,815
throughout the region.
385
00:28:28,760 --> 00:28:31,095
Blighted by social
and economic hardship,
386
00:28:31,120 --> 00:28:34,375
there are over 200 mountain towns
in Calabria that are at risk
387
00:28:34,400 --> 00:28:35,775
of being abandoned.
388
00:28:45,640 --> 00:28:48,735
But not everyone
is packing up their bags.
389
00:28:48,760 --> 00:28:52,255
Annalisa Fiorenza is a farmer
and local activist who is using
390
00:28:52,280 --> 00:28:55,375
organic agriculture as a means
to create opportunities
391
00:28:55,400 --> 00:28:56,775
in her community.
392
00:29:28,320 --> 00:29:31,855
But Annalisa has had to contend
with some deep rooted issues
393
00:29:31,880 --> 00:29:33,535
that come with the territory.
394
00:29:33,560 --> 00:29:37,775
These mountains are a stronghold
of the Ndrangheta,
395
00:29:37,800 --> 00:29:40,415
the notorious Calabrian mafia.
396
00:29:40,440 --> 00:29:42,175
Formed in the 1800s,
397
00:29:42,200 --> 00:29:45,735
this brutal criminal syndicate took
root in the most impoverished
398
00:29:45,760 --> 00:29:48,255
and rural parts of the region.
399
00:29:48,280 --> 00:29:51,175
Today, they're one of the most
powerful criminal networks
400
00:29:51,200 --> 00:29:54,135
in the world,
401
00:29:54,160 --> 00:29:57,935
with an estimated
$60 billion annual turn over.
402
00:30:39,040 --> 00:30:42,895
The only way Annalisa has been able
to survive is by joining forces
403
00:30:42,920 --> 00:30:47,175
with a cooperative of local
farmers called GOEL Bio,
404
00:30:47,200 --> 00:30:50,935
which helped her rebuild
after she was attacked.
405
00:30:50,960 --> 00:30:54,215
Today, a few members are meeting up
for their monthly lunch at a local
406
00:30:54,240 --> 00:30:56,575
rest a u ra nt, La Co li necta.
407
00:30:56,600 --> 00:30:58,975
And Annalisa and I are joining.
408
00:31:05,200 --> 00:31:08,695
The restaurant is run by fellow
farmer and chef, Pino Tremblay,
409
00:31:08,720 --> 00:31:12,495
who is preparing us
a feast of Calabrian dishes.
410
00:31:12,520 --> 00:31:17,215
Pino decided to join the cooperative
in 2019 as a means to promote
411
00:31:17,240 --> 00:31:20,215
his incredible organic produce
outside of his restaurant.
412
00:31:33,840 --> 00:31:36,375
This is time honoured cooking,
and by time honoured,
413
00:31:36,400 --> 00:31:38,375
I mean, like, the Stone Age.
414
00:31:38,400 --> 00:31:42,575
Cooking in clay perfectly seals in
the flavours of the meat.
415
00:31:42,600 --> 00:31:44,055
But there's a trade off.
416
00:31:44,080 --> 00:31:46,815
It takes over four hours per dish.
Oh!
417
00:31:55,760 --> 00:31:59,055
Pino's down to Earth cooking would
have been a sure-fire success
418
00:31:59,080 --> 00:32:00,495
anywhere in Italy.
419
00:32:00,520 --> 00:32:03,135
But running a thriving business
in this part of Calabria
420
00:32:03,160 --> 00:32:04,975
often comes at a price.
421
00:33:05,000 --> 00:33:08,495
Whenever somebody like Pino
is threatened or attacked,
422
00:33:08,520 --> 00:33:11,015
the cooperative gather around
the victim to protect them,
423
00:33:11,040 --> 00:33:14,015
even funding rebuilding efforts.
424
00:33:15,440 --> 00:33:17,295
Oh, my...
425
00:33:20,120 --> 00:33:21,575
Oh, yeah, put it down.
426
00:33:23,480 --> 00:33:26,535
It's a bold approach,
but one that's working.
427
00:33:26,560 --> 00:33:29,935
The cooperative hasn't suffered
an attack in five years,
428
00:33:29,960 --> 00:33:32,095
and that's something
worth celebrating.
429
00:33:32,120 --> 00:33:33,855
WOW!
430
00:33:49,920 --> 00:33:52,015
This battle is by no means won.
431
00:33:52,040 --> 00:33:55,695
But Pino and Annalisa's stories
are a reminder that food
432
00:33:55,720 --> 00:33:59,135
can be a powerful tool
for social change.
433
00:33:59,160 --> 00:34:00,695
It just falls apart.
434
00:34:00,720 --> 00:34:02,895
It's delicious.
435
00:34:02,920 --> 00:34:06,495
And there's reason to be hopeful
because, as Pino says,
436
00:34:06,520 --> 00:34:08,815
Calabria is made up of good people.
437
00:34:10,320 --> 00:34:12,335
To all of you.
438
00:34:25,840 --> 00:34:27,695
I remember this very distinctly,
439
00:34:27,720 --> 00:34:30,455
but I don't remember it
being as verdant as this.
440
00:34:30,480 --> 00:34:34,095
Obviously, it was 48 years ago,
so the trees were smaller.
441
00:34:34,120 --> 00:34:36,775
But you must have come
with neighbourhood charm.
442
00:34:36,800 --> 00:34:40,495
My time in Calabria is coming
to a close, so my parents
443
00:34:40,520 --> 00:34:43,055
are joining me for one last trip.
444
00:34:43,080 --> 00:34:47,415
We've come to visit my maternal
grandparents' home, Cittanova.
445
00:34:47,440 --> 00:34:50,215
Ancl I never saw this,
all the times we've been here.
446
00:34:50,240 --> 00:34:52,295
No, I don't remember this.
447
00:34:52,320 --> 00:34:53,855
But time's up.
448
00:34:55,800 --> 00:34:58,735
My grandfather, Vincenzo,
was a battlefield medic
449
00:34:58,760 --> 00:35:01,695
in World War I who, emigrated
to Westchester, New York,
450
00:35:01,720 --> 00:35:04,255
where he met and married
a girl from his hometown,
451
00:35:04,280 --> 00:35:06,815
my grandmother, Conchita.
452
00:35:06,840 --> 00:35:09,695
That's an awful lot of people
from a small city.
453
00:35:09,720 --> 00:35:12,935
Italia Caduti In Cverra.
454
00:35:12,960 --> 00:35:14,775
Those who fell in the war.
455
00:35:14,800 --> 00:35:16,895
This is our family, Tropeano.
456
00:35:16,920 --> 00:35:18,775
Tropeano, Tropeano.
457
00:35:18,800 --> 00:35:22,815
So happy we saw this,
never even known it was here.
458
00:35:22,840 --> 00:35:25,815
But there's another reason
why we've come to Cittanova.
459
00:35:25,840 --> 00:35:28,375
The last time we were here
was on our first family trip
460
00:35:28,400 --> 00:35:30,455
to Calabria in 1973.
461
00:35:31,680 --> 00:35:35,855
We stayed then with my grandfather's
family and made a promise to return.
462
00:35:47,360 --> 00:35:50,255
Today, we're keeping that promise
and finally getting to have
463
00:35:50,280 --> 00:35:53,575
an intimate family reunion,
or as intimate as you can get
464
00:35:53,600 --> 00:35:55,815
with a family of this size.
465
00:36:01,880 --> 00:36:03,695
I know, I know,
it's a lot of people.
466
00:36:08,440 --> 00:36:10,575
Let's go!
467
00:36:10,600 --> 00:36:14,575
In typical Calabrian fashion, my
relatives have been up day and night
468
00:36:14,600 --> 00:36:19,975
for half a week, preparing a feast
of some of our favourite dishes
469
00:36:20,000 --> 00:36:22,735
like this, stock fish,
Cittanova style.
470
00:36:24,200 --> 00:36:26,415
This is a Tropeano family dish
471
00:36:26,440 --> 00:36:29,135
that is very similar to the Bacca la
and tomato sauce
472
00:36:29,160 --> 00:36:30,695
that I grew up with.
473
00:36:42,000 --> 00:36:45,575
My mother would make this
with baccala.
474
00:36:53,440 --> 00:36:55,375
WOW!
475
00:36:57,320 --> 00:36:59,575
It's so good!
476
00:36:59,600 --> 00:37:03,695
But no family feast, at least
in our household, is complete
477
00:37:03,720 --> 00:37:06,335
until you have these, zeppole.
478
00:37:24,240 --> 00:37:27,295
These delicious, deep-fried
beignets-like things,
479
00:37:27,320 --> 00:37:30,095
often smothered in
confectionery sugar, are a staple
480
00:37:30,120 --> 00:37:32,975
at Italian-American
festivities.
481
00:37:33,000 --> 00:37:37,255
But here in Calabria, zeppole
are made savoury instead of sweet.
482
00:37:41,080 --> 00:37:44,495
What do you think, Stan?
They're good. They're good.
483
00:37:44,520 --> 00:37:47,295
It's a meal.
Are they as good as mine?
484
00:37:48,600 --> 00:37:50,455
I'm not answering that question.
485
00:37:50,480 --> 00:37:52,015
Delicious!
486
00:37:52,040 --> 00:37:56,375
But another dish, a simple, nameless
preparation of roasted goat,
487
00:37:56,400 --> 00:37:59,295
reminds me of that trip here
almost 50 years ago.
488
00:38:20,680 --> 00:38:22,095
I don't know.
489
00:38:22,120 --> 00:38:25,135
It had a great influence on me, just
driving up, getting it, putting it
490
00:38:25,160 --> 00:38:27,655
into the back of the car,
into the trunk of the car.
491
00:38:27,680 --> 00:38:29,775
It was dead, but it was so good.
492
00:38:29,800 --> 00:38:32,255
It was probably prepared like that.
493
00:38:32,280 --> 00:38:34,575
Right?
Beautiful.
494
00:38:34,600 --> 00:38:38,415
For our family, there has always
been a strange and magical bond
495
00:38:38,440 --> 00:38:42,015
with food that drives
so much of what we do.
496
00:38:55,720 --> 00:38:59,935
I believe that the food we enjoy
together strengthens the bonds
497
00:38:59,960 --> 00:39:01,415
we will share forever.
498
00:39:27,040 --> 00:39:28,295
I'll take some potatoes.
499
00:39:28,320 --> 00:39:29,935
I love that.
500
00:39:33,160 --> 00:39:36,295
The region my family left behind
all those years ago
501
00:39:36,320 --> 00:39:39,095
is still as troubled
as it is beautiful.
502
00:39:39,120 --> 00:39:40,655
Oh, my God.
503
00:39:40,680 --> 00:39:44,095
But the true magic of this land
is how it inspires people here
504
00:39:44,120 --> 00:39:49,175
to do things that are equally as
beautiful and how everywhere you go,
505
00:39:49,200 --> 00:39:53,135
you will be treated like family.