1
00:00:02,043 --> 00:00:03,586
[TV static drones]

2
00:00:03,670 --> 00:00:06,005
[bright tone]

3
00:00:09,509 --> 00:00:10,927
- I'm going now, bro.

4
00:00:11,010 --> 00:00:14,139
I'm not waiting around, huh?

5
00:00:14,222 --> 00:00:16,099
We got to get going.

6
00:00:16,182 --> 00:00:17,100
- All right.

7
00:00:17,183 --> 00:00:19,644
<i>[dramatic music]</i>

8
00:00:19,728 --> 00:00:21,396
- Come on, guys,
the sun's coming up.

9
00:00:21,479 --> 00:00:25,233
<i>♪ ♪</i>

10
00:00:25,316 --> 00:00:26,943
Come on, let's get out there.

11
00:00:28,653 --> 00:00:30,488
Here they come.

12
00:00:32,198 --> 00:00:33,408
Okay, let's go.

13
00:00:33,491 --> 00:00:34,868
- [grunts]
- Go.

14
00:00:34,951 --> 00:00:41,833
<i>♪ ♪</i>

15
00:00:41,916 --> 00:00:43,793
There you go, there you go.

16
00:00:43,877 --> 00:00:46,796
Uh-oh. Uh-oh.

17
00:00:46,880 --> 00:00:48,923
- What the fuck?

18
00:00:49,007 --> 00:00:53,595
<i>♪ ♪</i>

19
00:00:53,678 --> 00:00:55,889
<i>- Doing something that</i>
<i>nobody's ever done before,</i>

20
00:00:55,972 --> 00:00:58,600
<i>there's no guarantee</i>
<i>that your plan's gonna work.</i>

21
00:00:58,683 --> 00:01:00,685
<i>- [groans]</i>

22
00:01:00,769 --> 00:01:03,605
<i>- Once you commit,</i>
<i>there is no turning around.</i>

23
00:01:03,688 --> 00:01:06,024
<i>♪ ♪</i>

24
00:01:06,107 --> 00:01:08,610
<i>- We're entirely removed</i>
<i>from civilization.</i>

25
00:01:08,693 --> 00:01:10,945
- Look at this one.

26
00:01:11,029 --> 00:01:13,448
<i>- We know once we get there,</i>
<i>we're on our own.</i>

27
00:01:13,531 --> 00:01:14,657
- Climbing.

28
00:01:14,741 --> 00:01:17,076
<i>We've chosen to live a life</i>
<i>that does have risk.</i>

29
00:01:17,160 --> 00:01:19,120
- Oh, my God.
- [crying]

30
00:01:19,204 --> 00:01:20,955
<i>- One mistake,</i>
<i>and you're dead.</i>

31
00:01:21,039 --> 00:01:22,290
- Come on, now.

32
00:01:22,373 --> 00:01:23,500
<i>- If you harness that fear,</i>

33
00:01:23,583 --> 00:01:25,877
<i>you can do something that</i>
<i>you never thought possible.</i>

34
00:01:25,960 --> 00:01:27,796
- Whoo! Yeah!

35
00:01:30,089 --> 00:01:33,009
<i>- Is the pursuit</i>
<i>worth the risk?</i>

36
00:01:37,055 --> 00:01:40,016
<i>[waves crashing]</i>

37
00:01:47,565 --> 00:01:49,317
[bird squawking]

38
00:01:49,400 --> 00:01:51,319
<i>- Everything that you want</i>
<i>in life</i>

39
00:01:51,402 --> 00:01:53,696
<i>is on the other side</i>
<i>of your fear.</i>

40
00:01:53,780 --> 00:02:00,745
<i>♪ ♪</i>

41
00:02:03,122 --> 00:02:07,210
<i>Africa has a allure</i>
<i>of danger and excitement.</i>

42
00:02:08,837 --> 00:02:10,338
<i>The colors...</i>

43
00:02:10,421 --> 00:02:11,881
[birds honking]

44
00:02:11,965 --> 00:02:14,884
<i>The water...</i>

45
00:02:14,968 --> 00:02:18,888
<i>everything about it is</i>
<i>unique and special.</i>

46
00:02:18,972 --> 00:02:22,100
<i>♪ ♪</i>

47
00:02:22,183 --> 00:02:24,435
<i>I've traveled</i>
<i>all over the world,</i>

48
00:02:24,519 --> 00:02:26,187
but this coast
that we're going to,

49
00:02:26,271 --> 00:02:28,857
for me, it's almost
the last frontier

50
00:02:28,940 --> 00:02:31,651
<i>of everything.</i>

51
00:02:31,734 --> 00:02:33,278
<i>The vastness of it,</i>

52
00:02:33,361 --> 00:02:36,364
<i>just how many waves</i>
<i>there are--</i>

53
00:02:36,447 --> 00:02:38,241
<i>It's a really rocky shoreline,</i>

54
00:02:38,324 --> 00:02:40,660
<i>peppered with these</i>
<i>beautiful white-sand beaches</i>

55
00:02:40,743 --> 00:02:42,996
<i>but mostly</i>
<i>just Atlantic Ocean,</i>

56
00:02:43,079 --> 00:02:45,707
<i>massive swells</i>
<i>just smashing into rocks.</i>

57
00:02:45,790 --> 00:02:49,127
<i>♪ ♪</i>

58
00:02:49,210 --> 00:02:51,129
<i>- I know for me personally,</i>

59
00:02:51,212 --> 00:02:52,964
<i>it's, like,</i>
<i>all about the next wave,</i>

60
00:02:53,047 --> 00:02:54,674
the next location.

61
00:02:54,757 --> 00:02:58,595
And it just keeps you
driving forward.

62
00:02:58,678 --> 00:03:01,472
<i>You look at the entire world,</i>

63
00:03:01,556 --> 00:03:04,893
and there can't just be
four iconic giant big waves--

64
00:03:04,976 --> 00:03:07,937
<i>Jaws, Nazaré,</i>

65
00:03:08,021 --> 00:03:11,774
<i>Mavericks, and Waimea.</i>

66
00:03:11,858 --> 00:03:15,236
There has to be
another location.

67
00:03:15,320 --> 00:03:18,197
Oh, my God.
There's so many.

68
00:03:18,281 --> 00:03:19,240
<i>- We're going</i>

69
00:03:19,324 --> 00:03:21,284
<i>to this super-remote piece</i>
<i>of coastline</i>

70
00:03:21,367 --> 00:03:23,202
<i>that just gets pounded</i>
<i>by swell</i>

71
00:03:23,286 --> 00:03:25,038
<i>out of the Roaring Forties.</i>

72
00:03:25,121 --> 00:03:27,790
<i>The big objective is</i>
<i>the new big wave</i>

73
00:03:27,874 --> 00:03:30,251
<i>that we've named The Peak,</i>

74
00:03:30,335 --> 00:03:32,003
<i>which is</i>
<i>what I believe could be</i>

75
00:03:32,086 --> 00:03:34,756
<i>one of the biggest waves</i>
<i>in the world.</i>

76
00:03:34,839 --> 00:03:36,507
<i>There's deep water</i>
<i>on the outside,</i>

77
00:03:36,591 --> 00:03:38,801
<i>with outer reefs coming</i>
<i>out of deep water</i>

78
00:03:38,885 --> 00:03:39,844
<i>into shallow water,</i>

79
00:03:39,928 --> 00:03:41,304
<i>and that's what makes</i>
<i>big waves.</i>

80
00:03:41,387 --> 00:03:43,306
This is gonna be so fun
on the low tide

81
00:03:43,389 --> 00:03:45,141
and the smaller swell.
- Yeah, in the morning.

82
00:03:45,224 --> 00:03:48,603
<i>This is surf exploration</i>
<i>at its finest to me.</i>

83
00:03:48,686 --> 00:03:52,941
<i>Yes, we have this looming,</i>
<i>lofty goal of a big wave</i>

84
00:03:53,024 --> 00:03:54,943
<i>with the likes of Jaws,</i>

85
00:03:55,026 --> 00:03:59,364
<i>but there's also reef breaks,</i>
<i>sandbars, point breaks,</i>

86
00:03:59,447 --> 00:04:01,115
<i>and everything in between,</i>

87
00:04:01,199 --> 00:04:02,951
<i>and all of it's new.</i>

88
00:04:03,034 --> 00:04:04,452
[birds calling]

89
00:04:04,535 --> 00:04:08,790
<i>- This is the moment</i>
<i>to really find and capture</i>

90
00:04:08,873 --> 00:04:10,667
<i>what we've been dreaming of.</i>

91
00:04:10,750 --> 00:04:17,340
<i>♪ ♪</i>

92
00:04:23,763 --> 00:04:27,892
<i>I've actually always explained</i>
<i>big-wave surfing to people</i>

93
00:04:27,976 --> 00:04:30,019
<i>as a calculated madness.</i>

94
00:04:30,103 --> 00:04:32,397
I think all big-wave surfers
are on that spectrum--

95
00:04:32,480 --> 00:04:34,691
either completely mad
or super calculated.

96
00:04:34,774 --> 00:04:37,443
<i>And this adventure part of it,</i>

97
00:04:37,527 --> 00:04:40,279
<i>where these are new waves,</i>
<i>it's definitely--</i>

98
00:04:40,363 --> 00:04:41,739
<i>there's more danger involved</i>

99
00:04:41,823 --> 00:04:44,158
'cause you don't know
how the wave's gonna behave,

100
00:04:44,242 --> 00:04:46,244
you know, where you're gonna
end up after a wipeout.

101
00:04:46,327 --> 00:04:47,870
Are you gonna get pushed
into the rocks?

102
00:04:47,954 --> 00:04:50,832
You know,
that's all an unknown,

103
00:04:50,915 --> 00:04:54,877
and that unknown makes it
more exciting for us.

104
00:04:56,629 --> 00:04:58,589
- Have a look
what I'm holding.

105
00:04:58,673 --> 00:05:00,800
Look. Have a look.

106
00:05:00,883 --> 00:05:03,261
- Oh, another one.
- Mm-hmm.

107
00:05:03,344 --> 00:05:05,722
There's only one more left
for me.

108
00:05:05,805 --> 00:05:07,390
<i>- I think that</i>
<i>probably the hardest thing</i>

109
00:05:07,473 --> 00:05:08,391
<i>with big-wave surfing</i>

110
00:05:08,474 --> 00:05:11,352
is that you've always
got to be ready

111
00:05:11,436 --> 00:05:14,397
to drop everything for a swell.

112
00:05:14,480 --> 00:05:16,482
- You want to go, too?

113
00:05:16,566 --> 00:05:18,359
- Next time
we'll go together, okay?

114
00:05:18,443 --> 00:05:19,902
- Yes.

115
00:05:19,986 --> 00:05:22,488
[squeals]

116
00:05:22,572 --> 00:05:24,949
<i>- My daughter's too young</i>
<i>to know what I'm doing,</i>

117
00:05:25,033 --> 00:05:28,327
<i>you know, to know</i>
<i>how dangerous it is yet.</i>

118
00:05:28,411 --> 00:05:30,705
And we obviously play it down
for her.

119
00:05:30,788 --> 00:05:33,875
You know, she's learning
to surf and loves the ocean,

120
00:05:33,958 --> 00:05:35,418
<i>so, you know,</i>
<i>we're not gonna say</i>

121
00:05:35,501 --> 00:05:37,587
<i>"Oh, you know,</i>
<i>Papa does crazy stuff</i>

122
00:05:37,670 --> 00:05:40,298
<i>in big waves</i>
<i>and scary stuff like that."</i>

123
00:05:40,381 --> 00:05:45,595
<i>♪ ♪</i>

124
00:05:45,678 --> 00:05:49,265
<i>- Twig...yes.</i>

125
00:05:49,348 --> 00:05:50,558
<i>Oh, shit.</i>

126
00:05:50,641 --> 00:05:53,478
<i>Oh, God.</i>
<i>Oh, God.</i>

127
00:05:53,561 --> 00:05:55,104
<i>Oh--</i>

128
00:05:55,188 --> 00:05:57,565
<i>Oh, shit.</i>

129
00:05:57,648 --> 00:05:59,942
<i>Where is he?</i>
<i>Where is he?</i>

130
00:06:00,026 --> 00:06:02,153
<i>Come on, Twig.</i>
<i>- Shouldn't he be there?</i>

131
00:06:02,236 --> 00:06:05,364
<i>- Yeah, come over.</i>

132
00:06:05,448 --> 00:06:07,867
<i>Fuck, fuck, fuck.</i>

133
00:06:07,950 --> 00:06:11,287
[indistinct chatter]

134
00:06:11,370 --> 00:06:12,580
<i>Shit.</i>

135
00:06:12,663 --> 00:06:15,792
<i>♪ ♪</i>

136
00:06:15,875 --> 00:06:17,460
<i>- He's good.</i>
<i>He's on.</i>

137
00:06:17,543 --> 00:06:20,630
- Whoo!
- Whoo.

138
00:06:22,256 --> 00:06:24,509
- Yeah.
- Not sure.

139
00:06:24,592 --> 00:06:28,387
- I would hate to leave
my wife and daughter behind,

140
00:06:28,471 --> 00:06:30,473
<i>but at the same time,</i>

141
00:06:30,556 --> 00:06:32,683
<i>putting myself</i>
<i>out of my comfort zone</i>

142
00:06:32,767 --> 00:06:34,977
<i>and looking for places</i>
<i>and waves</i>

143
00:06:35,061 --> 00:06:37,980
<i>and people who will excite me</i>
<i>and challenge me--</i>

144
00:06:38,064 --> 00:06:40,358
<i>that's kind of</i>
<i>what keeps me alive</i>

145
00:06:40,441 --> 00:06:41,859
<i>and keeps me focused</i>

146
00:06:41,943 --> 00:06:43,778
<i>and gives me, you know,</i>
<i>the energy of life</i>

147
00:06:43,861 --> 00:06:44,821
<i>that I need.</i>

148
00:06:44,904 --> 00:06:46,989
<i>♪ ♪</i>

149
00:06:47,073 --> 00:06:49,367
<i>Yeah, my wife, she knows</i>
<i>what the dangers are,</i>

150
00:06:49,450 --> 00:06:52,453
<i>but I think</i>
<i>she also trusts my judgment.</i>

151
00:06:52,537 --> 00:06:54,455
<i>At the same time,</i>
<i>I think she also knows</i>

152
00:06:54,539 --> 00:06:57,500
<i>if the wave comes,</i>
<i>I'm gonna go.</i>

153
00:06:57,583 --> 00:07:04,549
<i>♪ ♪</i>

154
00:07:04,632 --> 00:07:08,344
<i>This trip's gonna be</i>
<i>very, very exciting.</i>

155
00:07:08,427 --> 00:07:11,514
<i>It takes a lot of planning</i>
<i>and a lot of preparation,</i>

156
00:07:11,597 --> 00:07:14,433
<i>but it's well worth it,</i>
<i>you know,</i>

157
00:07:14,517 --> 00:07:16,894
<i>to look at this final</i>
<i>surfing frontier.</i>

158
00:07:16,978 --> 00:07:23,776
<i>♪ ♪</i>

159
00:07:35,580 --> 00:07:39,500
<i>First stop was to Cape Town,</i>
<i>where we met up with Ian.</i>

160
00:07:39,584 --> 00:07:42,253
- How are you?
How was your drive down?

161
00:07:42,336 --> 00:07:44,297
- Yeah, good. Great.

162
00:07:44,380 --> 00:07:47,383
both: Oh.
- Epic.

163
00:07:47,466 --> 00:07:50,219
<i>And from there, we just got</i>
<i>everything ready,</i>

164
00:07:50,303 --> 00:07:52,054
<i>picked up all the gear</i>
<i>that we needed--</i>

165
00:07:52,138 --> 00:07:54,724
<i>camping, water, fuel,</i>

166
00:07:54,807 --> 00:07:56,767
<i>everything that we needed</i>
<i>to survive</i>

167
00:07:56,851 --> 00:07:58,436
<i>in the desert for three weeks.</i>

168
00:07:58,519 --> 00:08:00,730
<i>And while we were doing</i>
<i>all of that,</i>

169
00:08:00,813 --> 00:08:03,566
<i>we were monitoring the weather</i>
<i>and the conditions.</i>

170
00:08:03,649 --> 00:08:05,234
- Not too deep.

171
00:08:05,318 --> 00:08:07,987
<i>♪ ♪</i>

172
00:08:08,070 --> 00:08:10,364
<i>- Right now it looks like</i>
<i>the next three to four days</i>

173
00:08:10,448 --> 00:08:12,033
look pretty light.

174
00:08:12,116 --> 00:08:15,995
And then there's two big swells
that are lining up.

175
00:08:16,078 --> 00:08:19,498
<i>What we're seeing is</i>
<i>the biggest storm they've had</i>

176
00:08:19,582 --> 00:08:22,376
<i>in the southern Atlantic</i>
<i>this entire season</i>

177
00:08:22,460 --> 00:08:24,462
<i>and maybe</i>
<i>in the last three years.</i>

178
00:08:24,545 --> 00:08:25,755
<i>As a big-wave surfer,</i>

179
00:08:25,838 --> 00:08:27,757
<i>this is ideally</i>
<i>what you're looking for.</i>

180
00:08:27,840 --> 00:08:29,884
- Just to be seeing
these type of swells

181
00:08:29,967 --> 00:08:34,597
and the pattern setting up
is very encouraging.

182
00:08:34,680 --> 00:08:36,766
<i>- So the ideal scenario</i>
<i>for us</i>

183
00:08:36,849 --> 00:08:39,644
<i>is a storm has</i>
<i>a little bit of energy</i>

184
00:08:39,727 --> 00:08:42,563
<i>as it starts</i>
<i>underneath South America,</i>

185
00:08:42,647 --> 00:08:46,067
<i>and it starts to build</i>
<i>momentum and volume</i>

186
00:08:46,150 --> 00:08:49,237
<i>as it gets deeper</i>
<i>across the southern Atlantic.</i>

187
00:08:49,320 --> 00:08:53,115
<i>And then it gets about</i>
<i>halfway across, stalls out,</i>

188
00:08:53,199 --> 00:08:55,910
<i>and creates a gigantic storm,</i>

189
00:08:55,993 --> 00:08:59,914
<i>and it sends all of that swell</i>
<i>directly to us,</i>

190
00:08:59,997 --> 00:09:02,500
<i>and so we get</i>
<i>all of that swell energy</i>

191
00:09:02,583 --> 00:09:05,962
<i>and none of the actual</i>
<i>weather that's in that storm.</i>

192
00:09:06,045 --> 00:09:07,421
- Bunch of waves
in between there.

193
00:09:07,505 --> 00:09:08,798
That's 20 kilometers.

194
00:09:08,881 --> 00:09:11,467
<i>Our swells that come</i>
<i>out of that southern Atlantic</i>

195
00:09:11,550 --> 00:09:14,512
<i>can be really stormy and raw.</i>

196
00:09:14,595 --> 00:09:15,805
<i>That's another reason</i>

197
00:09:15,888 --> 00:09:17,807
<i>why I think, you know,</i>
<i>the biggest ride of all waves</i>

198
00:09:17,890 --> 00:09:19,225
<i>are definitely</i>
<i>somewhere there.</i>

199
00:09:19,308 --> 00:09:21,185
<i>And once we're out there</i>
<i>and it's a new wave</i>

200
00:09:21,269 --> 00:09:23,479
<i>and we can combine</i>
<i>both our experience</i>

201
00:09:23,562 --> 00:09:26,440
<i>to work together</i>
<i>to figure out a wave,</i>

202
00:09:26,524 --> 00:09:27,858
<i>figure out how to catch it,</i>

203
00:09:27,942 --> 00:09:30,152
<i>we'll push each other</i>
<i>as hard as we can.</i>

204
00:09:30,236 --> 00:09:32,446
- But that's big, huh?
- Big.

205
00:09:32,530 --> 00:09:34,949
That's as big as they get.

206
00:09:35,032 --> 00:09:37,952
[water burbling]

207
00:09:41,038 --> 00:09:42,873
- Right over the back.

208
00:09:45,293 --> 00:09:48,212
<i>[curious music]</i>

209
00:09:48,296 --> 00:09:50,881
<i>♪ ♪</i>

210
00:09:50,965 --> 00:09:54,010
[car bell dinging]

211
00:09:54,093 --> 00:09:56,512
- This is kind of
like coming up for air.

212
00:09:56,596 --> 00:09:58,681
<i>- I couldn't find</i>
<i>a better person than Ian</i>

213
00:09:58,764 --> 00:10:00,683
<i>to partner with.</i>

214
00:10:00,766 --> 00:10:02,977
<i>He is one of,</i>
<i>if not, the very best</i>

215
00:10:03,060 --> 00:10:06,647
<i>big-wave surfer ability-wise</i>
<i>in the world.</i>

216
00:10:06,731 --> 00:10:07,940
<i>- With a barrel of his own.</i>

217
00:10:08,024 --> 00:10:09,317
<i>Walsh in a barrel!</i>
<i>- What the heck?</i>

218
00:10:09,400 --> 00:10:11,402
<i>- And he's threading</i>
<i>through that other section!</i>

219
00:10:11,485 --> 00:10:12,653
<i>Ian Walsh!</i>
<i>- Wow!</i>

220
00:10:12,737 --> 00:10:13,654
<i>- Well, there you go.</i>

221
00:10:13,738 --> 00:10:15,239
<i>You have to give that</i>
<i>a ten-point ride.</i>

222
00:10:15,323 --> 00:10:18,326
- [speaking indistinctly]
From Maui, Ian Walsh.

223
00:10:18,409 --> 00:10:19,744
<i>- Growing up on Maui,</i>

224
00:10:19,827 --> 00:10:22,997
every waking minute,
I was consumed by surfing

225
00:10:23,080 --> 00:10:24,999
<i>and being in the ocean.</i>

226
00:10:25,082 --> 00:10:27,585
<i>My parents had one rule</i>
<i>for my brothers and I,</i>

227
00:10:27,668 --> 00:10:29,670
which was as soon
as the streetlights come on,

228
00:10:29,754 --> 00:10:31,047
it's time to head
into the beach.

229
00:10:31,130 --> 00:10:34,508
Sunrise to sunset,
it's just them letting us burn

230
00:10:34,592 --> 00:10:36,594
<i>all the energy</i>
<i>we possibly could.</i>

231
00:10:36,677 --> 00:10:38,179
<i>For my brothers and I,</i>

232
00:10:38,262 --> 00:10:39,847
<i>growing up</i>
<i>in that environment,</i>

233
00:10:39,930 --> 00:10:42,266
<i>you start to dip</i>
<i>your toe a little deeper,</i>

234
00:10:42,350 --> 00:10:45,144
<i>and then you start surfing</i>
<i>the outer reefs,</i>

235
00:10:45,227 --> 00:10:47,063
<i>and then Jaws found me.</i>

236
00:10:47,146 --> 00:10:49,315
<i>I was 16 or 17.</i>

237
00:10:49,398 --> 00:10:52,276
<i>[dramatic music]</i>

238
00:10:52,360 --> 00:10:56,030
That was a different feeling
than anything I've ever had.

239
00:10:56,113 --> 00:10:58,866
<i>And that became</i>
<i>almost addictive for me,</i>

240
00:10:58,949 --> 00:11:02,078
<i>to be chasing and targeting</i>
<i>waves around the world.</i>

241
00:11:02,161 --> 00:11:08,417
<i>♪ ♪</i>

242
00:11:08,501 --> 00:11:10,628
[scattered cheers]

243
00:11:10,711 --> 00:11:12,922
<i>♪ ♪</i>

244
00:11:13,005 --> 00:11:16,384
<i>How far is the drive north</i>
<i>to were camp will be?</i>

245
00:11:16,467 --> 00:11:22,139
<i>- So we're heading</i>
<i>about 12 to 14 hours north</i>

246
00:11:22,223 --> 00:11:23,933
<i>and then obviously</i>
<i>onto the dirt road,</i>

247
00:11:24,016 --> 00:11:26,477
<i>which is--</i>
<i>- Gonna add some time.</i>

248
00:11:26,560 --> 00:11:27,978
<i>- Probably, yeah.</i>

249
00:11:28,062 --> 00:11:31,023
<i>♪ ♪</i>

250
00:11:31,107 --> 00:11:34,110
[indistinct chatter]

251
00:11:34,193 --> 00:11:41,075
<i>♪ ♪</i>

252
00:11:41,158 --> 00:11:43,202
<i>Whoa, there we go.</i>
<i>Yeah.</i>

253
00:11:43,285 --> 00:11:46,288
<i>- There it is, bro.</i>
<i>- The Atlantic.</i>

254
00:11:46,372 --> 00:11:48,416
<i>♪ ♪</i>

255
00:11:48,499 --> 00:11:50,084
<i>- I've been surfing</i>
<i>40 years,</i>

256
00:11:50,167 --> 00:11:52,461
<i>and the feeling</i>
<i>as you come over the rise</i>

257
00:11:52,545 --> 00:11:54,588
<i>and you see the ocean</i>
<i>for the first time</i>

258
00:11:54,672 --> 00:11:56,090
<i>is still the same.</i>

259
00:11:56,173 --> 00:11:58,509
<i>And, you know, the excitement</i>
<i>is still the same.</i>

260
00:11:58,592 --> 00:11:59,969
Oh, this is insane, bro.

261
00:12:00,052 --> 00:12:01,303
Look how beautiful
this coast is.

262
00:12:01,387 --> 00:12:04,974
Look at all those waves
just in this section here--

263
00:12:05,057 --> 00:12:07,351
<i>just beach-break madness.</i>

264
00:12:07,435 --> 00:12:10,354
<i>♪ ♪</i>

265
00:12:10,438 --> 00:12:11,939
<i>So, once we hit</i>
<i>the dirt road,</i>

266
00:12:12,022 --> 00:12:13,983
<i>we're gonna head</i>
<i>several hours further north,</i>

267
00:12:14,066 --> 00:12:17,069
<i>set up camp</i>
<i>in a super wave-rich zone.</i>

268
00:12:17,153 --> 00:12:18,946
<i>Once you leave the tar road,</i>

269
00:12:19,029 --> 00:12:20,865
<i>you immediately feel it.</i>

270
00:12:22,533 --> 00:12:23,784
Oh, fuck.

271
00:12:23,868 --> 00:12:26,454
[air hissing]

272
00:12:26,537 --> 00:12:27,872
We're a little bit jammed up.

273
00:12:27,955 --> 00:12:30,833
See if we can get
out of here all right.

274
00:12:30,916 --> 00:12:32,960
- If you can.
Yeah, there you go.

275
00:12:33,043 --> 00:12:35,087
[chuckles]

276
00:12:35,171 --> 00:12:37,214
<i>- The reason it is</i>
<i>so undiscovered</i>

277
00:12:37,298 --> 00:12:39,633
<i>is because there's just</i>
<i>no people up there.</i>

278
00:12:39,717 --> 00:12:40,676
<i>It's in the desert.</i>

279
00:12:40,759 --> 00:12:41,886
<i>There's no real reason</i>

280
00:12:41,969 --> 00:12:44,430
<i>for people to live</i>
<i>up in those conditions.</i>

281
00:12:44,513 --> 00:12:46,515
<i>But for a surfer,</i>

282
00:12:46,599 --> 00:12:48,934
<i>it's, you know, the best place</i>
<i>in the world.</i>

283
00:12:49,018 --> 00:12:50,352
Look at that ripple

284
00:12:50,436 --> 00:12:52,521
in that corner
up against those rocks there.

285
00:12:52,605 --> 00:12:55,816
<i>- Twiggy has a hunger</i>
<i>to chase waves--</i>

286
00:12:55,900 --> 00:13:00,029
<i>big, small, perfect,</i>
<i>and everything in between.</i>

287
00:13:00,112 --> 00:13:03,574
<i>- Grant Baker, to secure</i>
<i>not only a win,</i>

288
00:13:03,657 --> 00:13:06,368
<i>but yet another world title.</i>
- Whoo!

289
00:13:06,452 --> 00:13:08,662
- Congratulations.
- Grant "Twiggy" Baker.

290
00:13:08,746 --> 00:13:10,998
<i>- Pulling into a big barrel.</i>

291
00:13:11,081 --> 00:13:12,458
<i>What a wave.</i>

292
00:13:12,541 --> 00:13:13,918
<i>- What's going on?</i>

293
00:13:14,001 --> 00:13:16,545
<i>That is real,</i>
<i>real Jaws coming to life.</i>

294
00:13:16,629 --> 00:13:18,714
<i>- You know, Mavericks</i>
<i>and Jaws still excite me</i>

295
00:13:18,797 --> 00:13:20,883
<i>on those big days and when</i>
<i>you're testing yourself</i>

296
00:13:20,966 --> 00:13:22,134
<i>against the world's best,</i>

297
00:13:22,218 --> 00:13:24,386
<i>but it's trips like these</i>

298
00:13:24,470 --> 00:13:26,847
<i>that really gives me</i>
<i>that excitement</i>

299
00:13:26,931 --> 00:13:29,725
<i>as if I'm 20 again</i>
<i>and it's my first surf.</i>

300
00:13:31,602 --> 00:13:35,231
Oh!
- Whoo.

301
00:13:35,314 --> 00:13:37,858
<i>- His desire to push himself</i>
<i>in big waves</i>

302
00:13:37,942 --> 00:13:40,236
<i>was something</i>
<i>we really connected on.</i>

303
00:13:40,319 --> 00:13:42,988
<i>He's not afraid of hard work</i>
<i>to find new waves,</i>

304
00:13:43,072 --> 00:13:46,200
<i>and he's been at the forefront</i>
<i>of surf exploration,</i>

305
00:13:46,283 --> 00:13:50,037
<i>especially in this region</i>
<i>in Africa, for years.</i>

306
00:13:50,120 --> 00:13:52,039
<i>♪ ♪</i>

307
00:13:52,122 --> 00:13:53,374
<i>Right there against the grain.</i>

308
00:13:53,457 --> 00:13:55,209
- Look it--
- Oh, my God.

309
00:13:55,292 --> 00:13:57,419
- Fucking so many--
- That one's for real, though.

310
00:13:57,503 --> 00:13:58,921
- That one is definitely
for real.

311
00:13:59,004 --> 00:14:01,715
<i>- It's swelling,</i>
<i>and it's gonna barrel.</i>

312
00:14:01,799 --> 00:14:03,759
If we set up here...
- Mm-hmm.

313
00:14:03,842 --> 00:14:06,095
- We might be able to do
day missions,

314
00:14:06,178 --> 00:14:09,807
strikes north or south
if we want to go further up.

315
00:14:09,890 --> 00:14:12,101
- Yeah. Yeah, for sure.

316
00:14:12,184 --> 00:14:15,104
<i>- I mean, it's just, there's</i>
<i>so much, too, to choose from.</i>

317
00:14:15,187 --> 00:14:16,480
<i>If we get good winds,</i>

318
00:14:16,564 --> 00:14:18,566
<i>good tides,</i>
<i>and the right swelling,</i>

319
00:14:18,649 --> 00:14:21,569
<i>it's like having</i>
<i>the entire coast of California</i>

320
00:14:21,652 --> 00:14:23,362
<i>with nobody around.</i>

321
00:14:23,445 --> 00:14:29,910
<i>♪ ♪</i>

322
00:14:34,957 --> 00:14:36,917
It's still so big

323
00:14:37,001 --> 00:14:38,794
for how small
the maps were today.

324
00:14:38,877 --> 00:14:41,297
- [laughs]
- It's, like, washed out here.

325
00:14:41,380 --> 00:14:44,466
Tuesday is gonna be
too big here to surf.

326
00:14:44,550 --> 00:14:45,676
- I'd reckon so.

327
00:14:45,759 --> 00:14:48,095
This one, close one,
The Peak, we can paddle.

328
00:14:48,178 --> 00:14:49,638
I don't think
we can paddle that.

329
00:14:49,722 --> 00:14:51,140
- Rip, too?
Bunch of current?

330
00:14:51,223 --> 00:14:52,433
- I think it's got
a big rip.

331
00:14:52,516 --> 00:14:54,518
It looks like it's got
a big rip kind of running out.

332
00:14:54,602 --> 00:14:57,313
<i>♪ ♪</i>

333
00:14:57,396 --> 00:14:59,315
And tomorrow's
just a warm-up, anyway.

334
00:14:59,398 --> 00:15:02,610
It's the smallest day we're
gonna have of the whole trip.

335
00:15:02,693 --> 00:15:04,987
- It all plugs in
like a tent.

336
00:15:05,070 --> 00:15:07,114
- We're really
fucking dragging...

337
00:15:07,197 --> 00:15:09,241
<i>- We'll have</i>
<i>two types of scenarios.</i>

338
00:15:09,325 --> 00:15:12,578
<i>We'll have a tow-surfing one</i>
<i>and a paddle-surfing one.</i>

339
00:15:12,661 --> 00:15:14,705
The tow-surfing one
would operate

340
00:15:14,788 --> 00:15:17,791
as Twig and I towing
with one Jet Ski.

341
00:15:17,875 --> 00:15:21,003
So we will be the primary
safety for each other.

342
00:15:21,086 --> 00:15:23,047
He falls, if I tow him in,

343
00:15:23,130 --> 00:15:24,840
I'm going after him
to pick him up.

344
00:15:24,923 --> 00:15:27,843
The secondary safety
behind that to shadow

345
00:15:27,926 --> 00:15:29,428
will be Rooster.

346
00:15:29,511 --> 00:15:30,429
The secondary grabber--

347
00:15:30,512 --> 00:15:31,805
<i>- Big-wave surfing</i>
<i>is dangerous,</i>

348
00:15:31,889 --> 00:15:34,183
<i>and the crew</i>
<i>that we've assembled</i>

349
00:15:34,266 --> 00:15:37,269
<i>are the best watermen</i>
<i>South Africa has to offer,</i>

350
00:15:37,353 --> 00:15:38,395
<i>if not the world.</i>

351
00:15:38,479 --> 00:15:40,147
<i>And if you throw</i>
<i>Ian Walsh in there,</i>

352
00:15:40,230 --> 00:15:41,523
<i>it's a tight, good crew</i>

353
00:15:41,607 --> 00:15:44,109
<i>that if the shit hits the fan,</i>
<i>they're gonna know what to do.</i>

354
00:15:44,193 --> 00:15:47,321
It's a radical slab
that's very close to the rocks,

355
00:15:47,404 --> 00:15:49,490
but the surfer's gonna get
washed through.

356
00:15:49,573 --> 00:15:51,283
If he's fine,

357
00:15:51,367 --> 00:15:53,994
just let him get washed through
and then go grab him.

358
00:15:54,078 --> 00:15:56,997
<i>- To describe</i>
<i>a super-violent fall</i>

359
00:15:57,081 --> 00:15:58,999
<i>on a big wave</i>

360
00:15:59,083 --> 00:16:02,461
is hopping into a car,
driving as fast as you can,

361
00:16:02,544 --> 00:16:05,381
<i>and just swerving that thing</i>
<i>off the road</i>

362
00:16:05,464 --> 00:16:07,883
<i>and starting to roll...</i>

363
00:16:07,966 --> 00:16:10,761
<i>getting thrashed around.</i>

364
00:16:10,844 --> 00:16:14,056
<i>It's a very violent,</i>
<i>turbulent system</i>

365
00:16:14,139 --> 00:16:15,557
<i>going on underwater there,</i>

366
00:16:15,641 --> 00:16:18,435
<i>and it's covering</i>
<i>a great amount of distance.</i>

367
00:16:18,519 --> 00:16:20,562
<i>Like, you're going</i>
<i>five football fields</i>

368
00:16:20,646 --> 00:16:23,649
<i>in the blink of an eye</i>
<i>underwater.</i>

369
00:16:23,732 --> 00:16:25,859
<i>[person groans]</i>

370
00:16:25,943 --> 00:16:28,529
<i>The difference between falling</i>

371
00:16:28,612 --> 00:16:31,198
<i>at locations you know</i>
<i>very intimately,</i>

372
00:16:31,281 --> 00:16:33,409
<i>like Jaws and Mavericks,</i>

373
00:16:33,492 --> 00:16:36,870
compared to somewhere
you've never even surfed,

374
00:16:36,954 --> 00:16:38,914
is a whole different ball game.

375
00:16:38,997 --> 00:16:42,251
<i>You don't know if you're gonna</i>
<i>hit rocks on the inside.</i>

376
00:16:42,334 --> 00:16:44,962
You don't know
how quick and hard

377
00:16:45,045 --> 00:16:47,089
the safety pickups will be.

378
00:16:47,172 --> 00:16:49,758
<i>So you have to make</i>
<i>those assessments there.</i>

379
00:16:49,842 --> 00:16:53,595
Definitely has more of a scare

380
00:16:53,679 --> 00:16:55,973
than it does falling
at a place you know

381
00:16:56,056 --> 00:16:58,100
and have fallen at
plenty before.

382
00:16:58,183 --> 00:17:01,770
If anyone has any questions
at all, like, don't hesitate.

383
00:17:01,854 --> 00:17:03,439
- Thank you.
- Yeah.

384
00:17:03,522 --> 00:17:09,987
<i>♪ ♪</i>

385
00:17:18,495 --> 00:17:21,415
[birds crying]

386
00:17:21,498 --> 00:17:25,294
- It's our first morning
in the desert,

387
00:17:25,377 --> 00:17:29,131
so we're just kind of
trying to set up a routine.

388
00:17:29,214 --> 00:17:30,174
<i>It's pretty damn cold,</i>

389
00:17:30,257 --> 00:17:32,843
<i>but luckily the wetsuits</i>
<i>are dry the first day.</i>

390
00:17:32,926 --> 00:17:34,511
<i>Swell's still kind of small,</i>

391
00:17:34,595 --> 00:17:36,305
<i>but there should be</i>
<i>some fun waves, eh?</i>

392
00:17:36,388 --> 00:17:38,098
<i>I don't think</i>
<i>it's gonna be epic,</i>

393
00:17:38,182 --> 00:17:39,933
<i>but there'll definitely be</i>
<i>some fun waves.</i>

394
00:17:40,017 --> 00:17:46,940
<i>♪ ♪</i>

395
00:17:52,196 --> 00:17:54,656
<i>Look at this!</i>
<i>Empty fucking beach break.</i>

396
00:17:54,740 --> 00:17:56,450
<i>Not a soul.</i>

397
00:17:56,533 --> 00:18:00,162
<i>Are we the most blessed people</i>
<i>on this planet or what?</i>

398
00:18:00,245 --> 00:18:03,123
<i>[laughs]</i>

399
00:18:03,207 --> 00:18:10,214
<i>♪ ♪</i>

400
00:18:15,219 --> 00:18:17,805
<i>There we go.</i>
<i>Too easy!</i>

401
00:18:17,888 --> 00:18:24,853
<i>♪ ♪</i>

402
00:18:32,236 --> 00:18:33,821
<i>Yeah! Ha ha!</i>

403
00:18:35,739 --> 00:18:37,366
<i>Let's go, let's go,</i>
<i>let's go!</i>

404
00:18:37,449 --> 00:18:44,456
<i>♪ ♪</i>

405
00:18:53,298 --> 00:18:56,426
<i>- Now get out of it.</i>
<i>There we go.</i>

406
00:18:56,510 --> 00:18:57,761
<i>Phew.</i>

407
00:18:57,845 --> 00:19:04,810
<i>♪ ♪</i>

408
00:19:14,111 --> 00:19:15,195
<i>- That was great fun.</i>

409
00:19:15,279 --> 00:19:18,740
<i>Great warm-up, you know,</i>
<i>just to feel the energy.</i>

410
00:19:18,824 --> 00:19:20,993
<i>Still hopeful</i>
<i>for that big swell,</i>

411
00:19:21,076 --> 00:19:23,996
<i>but this is gonna be</i>
<i>very exciting</i>

412
00:19:24,079 --> 00:19:26,081
<i>if it all comes together.</i>

413
00:19:26,164 --> 00:19:33,172
<i>♪ ♪</i>

414
00:19:36,508 --> 00:19:38,760
<i>- Today is about 5 feet</i>
<i>at 11 seconds.</i>

415
00:19:38,844 --> 00:19:41,722
<i>This should be</i>
<i>the smallest day of the trip.</i>

416
00:19:41,805 --> 00:19:43,599
And then the next couple days

417
00:19:43,682 --> 00:19:47,811
will be 9 at 16...

418
00:19:47,895 --> 00:19:49,813
and then...

419
00:19:49,897 --> 00:19:52,190
then some funky weather.

420
00:19:52,274 --> 00:19:57,070
And then we have
potentially 17 to 18 feet

421
00:19:57,154 --> 00:19:59,114
at 22 seconds.

422
00:20:01,241 --> 00:20:05,412
That is a...hog of a swell.
- [chuckles]

423
00:20:05,495 --> 00:20:08,582
<i>♪ ♪</i>

424
00:20:08,665 --> 00:20:10,959
<i>- Conditions that have</i>
<i>to come together</i>

425
00:20:11,043 --> 00:20:12,461
<i>to create a big wave,</i>

426
00:20:12,544 --> 00:20:15,464
<i>even at the existing waves</i>
<i>like Mavericks and Jaws</i>

427
00:20:15,547 --> 00:20:16,673
<i>and Nazaré,</i>

428
00:20:16,757 --> 00:20:18,800
<i>they still only break well</i>

429
00:20:18,884 --> 00:20:21,094
<i>maybe once or twice a year,</i>

430
00:20:21,178 --> 00:20:23,472
<i>and it took years</i>
<i>and years and years</i>

431
00:20:23,555 --> 00:20:25,265
<i>for people to realize</i>

432
00:20:25,349 --> 00:20:27,517
<i>when they're gonna break</i>
<i>and how they're gonna break</i>

433
00:20:27,601 --> 00:20:28,852
<i>and all the risks.</i>

434
00:20:28,936 --> 00:20:31,230
<i>So, when it comes</i>
<i>to The Peak,</i>

435
00:20:31,313 --> 00:20:32,606
<i>you know,</i>
<i>we're still learning,</i>

436
00:20:32,689 --> 00:20:34,775
<i>and we're gonna be learning</i>
<i>for a long time.</i>

437
00:20:34,858 --> 00:20:35,943
See the gap, go.

438
00:20:36,026 --> 00:20:37,611
Whereas Nazaré's like,

439
00:20:37,694 --> 00:20:39,029
fucking coming
from all sides.

440
00:20:39,112 --> 00:20:40,280
- Yeah, sideways.
- Just...

441
00:20:40,364 --> 00:20:41,615
- Yeah.
Oh, yeah, for sure.

442
00:20:41,698 --> 00:20:44,868
<i>♪ ♪</i>

443
00:20:44,952 --> 00:20:48,163
<i>It's just--</i>
<i>there's not much to surf.</i>

444
00:20:48,246 --> 00:20:50,582
<i>- This doesn't look great</i>
<i>to me.</i>

445
00:20:50,666 --> 00:20:52,793
Not fucking 10 at 16.

446
00:20:52,876 --> 00:20:56,296
- No. It's 3 to 4 feet,
for sure.

447
00:20:56,380 --> 00:20:59,299
- Where did that swell go?
- I don't know.

448
00:20:59,383 --> 00:21:01,426
We're not
big-wave surfing today.

449
00:21:01,510 --> 00:21:04,680
There's so much coastline here

450
00:21:04,763 --> 00:21:08,517
and so much potential
and so much unknown

451
00:21:08,600 --> 00:21:11,144
that we have to, like, check
a bunch of different waves

452
00:21:11,228 --> 00:21:14,272
to see what waves
might handle a swell.

453
00:21:14,356 --> 00:21:16,483
There we go.

454
00:21:16,566 --> 00:21:20,570
<i>- Surfing is very reliant</i>
<i>on the wind and the weather</i>

455
00:21:20,654 --> 00:21:22,906
<i>and the swell size.</i>

456
00:21:22,990 --> 00:21:25,826
<i>And unless</i>
<i>you're very patient</i>

457
00:21:25,909 --> 00:21:28,662
<i>and unless you really put in</i>
<i>the time and effort,</i>

458
00:21:28,745 --> 00:21:30,706
<i>you're not gonna find</i>
<i>these new waves.</i>

459
00:21:30,789 --> 00:21:32,499
<i>You're not gonna get</i>
<i>to surf them.</i>

460
00:21:32,582 --> 00:21:34,710
<i>♪ ♪</i>

461
00:21:34,793 --> 00:21:36,670
- You can spend the entire day

462
00:21:36,753 --> 00:21:39,339
just driving around
looking at the waves...

463
00:21:39,423 --> 00:21:43,343
which is good--
you get a bunch of information.

464
00:21:43,427 --> 00:21:45,679
But I want to surf.

465
00:21:49,182 --> 00:21:53,186
<i>♪ ♪</i>

466
00:21:53,270 --> 00:21:55,355
<i>When you're looking</i>
<i>for giant waves,</i>

467
00:21:55,439 --> 00:21:57,691
<i>you look at the structure</i>

468
00:21:57,774 --> 00:21:59,901
<i>and the layout</i>
<i>of that location</i>

469
00:21:59,985 --> 00:22:00,944
<i>you're looking at,</i>

470
00:22:01,028 --> 00:22:02,904
<i>so the depth</i>
<i>of what might be the channel.</i>

471
00:22:02,988 --> 00:22:05,157
- Gonna go right into the rock.

472
00:22:05,240 --> 00:22:06,575
<i>- Is the channel gonna</i>
<i>close out</i>

473
00:22:06,658 --> 00:22:09,369
<i>if the waves are 20 meters,</i>
<i>or 60 feet?</i>

474
00:22:09,453 --> 00:22:10,704
<i>Or is the channel deep enough</i>

475
00:22:10,787 --> 00:22:13,331
<i>to handle a swell</i>
<i>of that size?</i>

476
00:22:13,415 --> 00:22:15,792
<i>♪ ♪</i>

477
00:22:15,876 --> 00:22:17,461
- You'll see a couple
coming in.

478
00:22:17,544 --> 00:22:19,087
- Yeah.

479
00:22:19,171 --> 00:22:22,132
<i>We have</i>
<i>a couple zones identified</i>

480
00:22:22,215 --> 00:22:24,259
<i>that we're targeting</i>
<i>and aiming for</i>

481
00:22:24,342 --> 00:22:26,094
<i>if it gets really big.</i>

482
00:22:26,178 --> 00:22:28,430
Hopeful that
day after tomorrow

483
00:22:28,513 --> 00:22:31,975
we get a little bit more punch
in the swell size

484
00:22:32,059 --> 00:22:35,103
and a little bit
more organization.

485
00:22:35,187 --> 00:22:36,396
<i>Hoping that gives us</i>

486
00:22:36,480 --> 00:22:37,981
<i>little bit more</i>
<i>of an opportunity</i>

487
00:22:38,065 --> 00:22:40,984
<i>to surf and try one</i>
<i>of those new waves.</i>

488
00:22:41,068 --> 00:22:42,903
<i>We're problem-solving</i>
<i>every day.</i>

489
00:22:42,986 --> 00:22:45,572
<i>♪ ♪</i>

490
00:22:45,655 --> 00:22:48,283
<i>- For the first couple days,</i>
<i>it was all about preparation--</i>

491
00:22:48,366 --> 00:22:49,743
<i>preparing the Jet Skis,</i>

492
00:22:49,826 --> 00:22:51,912
<i>preparing our equipment,</i>
<i>our boards,</i>

493
00:22:51,995 --> 00:22:53,413
<i>and then discussing</i>
<i>the logistics.</i>

494
00:22:53,497 --> 00:22:54,873
Very nice.

495
00:22:54,956 --> 00:22:58,210
<i>♪ ♪</i>

496
00:22:58,293 --> 00:23:00,462
- Two on that, for sure.
However it works--

497
00:23:00,545 --> 00:23:02,714
- And that just puts
one person on each ski

498
00:23:02,798 --> 00:23:04,800
right in the mix for safety.

499
00:23:04,883 --> 00:23:06,343
<i>There are a lot of variables,</i>

500
00:23:06,426 --> 00:23:08,804
<i>'cause we've never surfed</i>
<i>the wave before,</i>

501
00:23:08,887 --> 00:23:11,681
<i>that we're only gonna realize</i>
<i>once we get out there.</i>

502
00:23:11,765 --> 00:23:13,975
<i>You know, the most stressful</i>
<i>of that is</i>

503
00:23:14,059 --> 00:23:16,895
<i>how to get the Jet Skis</i>
<i>off the beach,</i>

504
00:23:16,978 --> 00:23:20,190
<i>through the beach break,</i>
<i>and out the back.</i>

505
00:23:20,273 --> 00:23:22,818
- Well, it's gonna be hard
to get out, for sure.

506
00:23:22,901 --> 00:23:24,402
- But Gumby was gonna
drive him out.

507
00:23:24,486 --> 00:23:26,071
<i>- Most big waves,</i>

508
00:23:26,154 --> 00:23:29,032
<i>they're conveniently located</i>
<i>near harbors,</i>

509
00:23:29,116 --> 00:23:30,450
<i>so we can get out.</i>

510
00:23:30,534 --> 00:23:32,994
<i>This location,</i>
<i>we're gonna have to launch</i>

511
00:23:33,078 --> 00:23:35,622
<i>right through giant</i>
<i>shore break,</i>

512
00:23:35,705 --> 00:23:39,417
<i>so it definitely creates</i>
<i>a lot more opportunity</i>

513
00:23:39,501 --> 00:23:42,337
<i>to lose a Jet Ski</i>
<i>before you even get out.</i>

514
00:23:42,420 --> 00:23:44,339
Till we know
that swell is for real...

515
00:23:44,423 --> 00:23:45,549
- Yeah.

516
00:23:45,632 --> 00:23:47,509
<i>We've got to get the safety</i>
<i>team working together.</i>

517
00:23:47,592 --> 00:23:49,386
<i>We got to make sure</i>
<i>the Jet Skis</i>

518
00:23:49,469 --> 00:23:50,679
<i>are operational and ready.</i>

519
00:23:50,762 --> 00:23:52,347
<i>Crew--everyone involved</i>

520
00:23:52,430 --> 00:23:55,517
<i>has to be</i>
<i>seamlessly working together.</i>

521
00:23:56,977 --> 00:23:58,061
- Done.

522
00:23:58,145 --> 00:24:05,068
<i>♪ ♪</i>

523
00:24:12,993 --> 00:24:14,870
Getting loose,
going through the motions,

524
00:24:14,953 --> 00:24:16,830
and putting the skis
in the water,

525
00:24:16,913 --> 00:24:18,498
making sure they run good.

526
00:24:18,582 --> 00:24:21,001
You don't really want to wait
until the morning

527
00:24:21,084 --> 00:24:22,919
of the best day of your trip

528
00:24:23,003 --> 00:24:25,630
to, like, start
the Jet Skis and--

529
00:24:25,714 --> 00:24:29,718
Better to just run everything
as if it's the day...

530
00:24:29,801 --> 00:24:32,012
<i>before the day actually comes.</i>

531
00:24:32,095 --> 00:24:39,060
<i>♪ ♪</i>

532
00:24:50,572 --> 00:24:52,949
<i>- There's a big one coming.</i>
<i>It's gonna wash in.</i>

533
00:24:53,033 --> 00:24:55,869
- After this next wave,
might be his gap.

534
00:24:55,952 --> 00:24:57,704
Here comes a set
from the south.

535
00:24:57,787 --> 00:25:00,582
Yeah, there he goes.
- Go, go, go, go, go.

536
00:25:00,665 --> 00:25:05,754
<i>♪ ♪</i>

537
00:25:05,837 --> 00:25:07,756
<i>- There they go</i>
<i>on the second wave.</i>

538
00:25:07,839 --> 00:25:11,593
[engine revving]

539
00:25:11,676 --> 00:25:12,969
<i>- Got it.</i>

540
00:25:13,053 --> 00:25:18,725
<i>♪ ♪</i>

541
00:25:25,023 --> 00:25:27,067
Fuck, that's not good.

542
00:25:27,150 --> 00:25:29,569
<i>- That's why you got to work</i>
<i>all that shit out before.</i>

543
00:25:29,653 --> 00:25:30,737
<i>- Shit, man.</i>

544
00:25:30,820 --> 00:25:33,907
That's gonna be tough
to get back on that ski now.

545
00:25:33,990 --> 00:25:37,244
- That's fucking 2 feet
out there.

546
00:25:37,327 --> 00:25:40,288
Wait till it's 25 foot
and you roll one of them.

547
00:25:40,372 --> 00:25:42,123
- Oh, shit.

548
00:25:42,207 --> 00:25:47,629
<i>♪ ♪</i>

549
00:25:47,712 --> 00:25:49,798
<i>- Safety has become something</i>

550
00:25:49,881 --> 00:25:53,176
<i>that's really,</i>
<i>really important to me.</i>

551
00:25:53,260 --> 00:25:56,346
<i>For me, the main pillars</i>
<i>of water safety</i>

552
00:25:56,429 --> 00:25:58,014
<i>for big-wave surfing</i>

553
00:25:58,098 --> 00:25:59,933
<i>is having someone</i>
<i>that's really calculated</i>

554
00:26:00,016 --> 00:26:01,309
<i>on the Jet Ski,</i>

555
00:26:01,393 --> 00:26:05,522
<i>has a very good understanding</i>
<i>of what it feels like</i>

556
00:26:05,605 --> 00:26:09,734
<i>in that violent, turbulent,</i>
<i>whitewash, impact-zone area</i>

557
00:26:09,818 --> 00:26:11,611
<i>if they have to rescue you,</i>

558
00:26:11,695 --> 00:26:14,781
<i>and also</i>
<i>a very good understanding</i>

559
00:26:14,864 --> 00:26:17,867
<i>of what it feels like</i>
<i>off that Jet Ski.</i>

560
00:26:19,619 --> 00:26:20,578
<i>You're never gonna be able</i>

561
00:26:20,662 --> 00:26:22,455
<i>to take out</i>
<i>all the risks, ever.</i>

562
00:26:22,539 --> 00:26:25,125
<i>And I've found,</i>
<i>over the years,</i>

563
00:26:25,208 --> 00:26:28,837
<i>how important it is to have</i>
<i>that safety plan in place</i>

564
00:26:28,920 --> 00:26:31,256
<i>to allow you to push yourself</i>

565
00:26:31,339 --> 00:26:34,884
<i>and minimize the risks</i>
<i>as much as you can.</i>

566
00:26:34,968 --> 00:26:36,511
Contingency plan--

567
00:26:36,594 --> 00:26:39,347
if that ski breaks, how does
the second ski get out?

568
00:26:39,431 --> 00:26:41,182
How does that one get in?

569
00:26:41,266 --> 00:26:42,851
All that stuff
should be talked about.

570
00:26:42,934 --> 00:26:44,060
You can't just wing it.

571
00:26:44,144 --> 00:26:45,687
- No, but we're listening
to you.

572
00:26:45,770 --> 00:26:46,980
- Yeah.
- We're listening to you.

573
00:26:47,063 --> 00:26:50,650
<i>- It's really important</i>
<i>for everyone to understand</i>

574
00:26:50,734 --> 00:26:52,235
<i>how that's gonna work.</i>

575
00:26:52,319 --> 00:26:54,738
<i>Where do they go</i>
<i>if someone's unconscious?</i>

576
00:26:54,821 --> 00:26:57,198
Communication is the key

577
00:26:57,282 --> 00:26:59,534
to helping avoid
those situations

578
00:26:59,617 --> 00:27:02,037
when they go horribly sideways.

579
00:27:02,120 --> 00:27:09,127
<i>♪ ♪</i>

580
00:27:11,463 --> 00:27:13,465
<i>- Greg and Garrett.</i>

581
00:27:13,548 --> 00:27:15,675
<i>[scattered cheers]</i>

582
00:27:16,801 --> 00:27:18,178
<i>- Ah.</i>
<i>- They're down. They're down.</i>

583
00:27:19,471 --> 00:27:20,889
<i>- Ian and I were there</i>
<i>at Cortes</i>

584
00:27:20,972 --> 00:27:22,390
<i>when Greg Long drowned</i>

585
00:27:22,474 --> 00:27:24,517
<i>and the guys brought him</i>
<i>back to life.</i>

586
00:27:24,601 --> 00:27:27,729
- [coughing]
[indistinct chatter]

587
00:27:27,812 --> 00:27:30,648
<i>- That's really when I started</i>
<i>understanding</i>

588
00:27:30,732 --> 00:27:32,233
<i>the need for safety</i>

589
00:27:32,317 --> 00:27:35,111
<i>and why you need to be</i>
<i>so pedantic</i>

590
00:27:35,195 --> 00:27:36,654
<i>about this type of stuff.</i>

591
00:27:36,738 --> 00:27:39,657
[helicopter blades whirring]

592
00:27:39,741 --> 00:27:44,204
<i>♪ ♪</i>

593
00:27:44,287 --> 00:27:46,498
<i>- There's gonna be something</i>
<i>on that big day</i>

594
00:27:46,581 --> 00:27:48,500
that we're gonna have
to deal with.

595
00:27:48,583 --> 00:27:50,543
- Yeah, look, it was never
gonna be easy, huh?

596
00:27:50,627 --> 00:27:51,920
- No.

597
00:27:52,003 --> 00:27:54,047
- But with some good planning,
we can make it easy.

598
00:27:54,130 --> 00:27:57,592
<i>♪ ♪</i>

599
00:27:57,675 --> 00:27:59,594
<i>Lucky enough to be able</i>
<i>to work with athletes</i>

600
00:27:59,677 --> 00:28:01,054
<i>like Walshy and Twig.</i>

601
00:28:01,137 --> 00:28:02,931
And the knowledge
that they bring to the table--

602
00:28:03,014 --> 00:28:04,099
even in this last week,

603
00:28:04,182 --> 00:28:06,142
what I've learned from Walshy
is overwhelming, you know?

604
00:28:06,226 --> 00:28:07,435
<i>Him and his brothers</i>

605
00:28:07,519 --> 00:28:09,020
<i>basically wrote</i>
<i>the handbook on safety</i>

606
00:28:09,104 --> 00:28:10,563
<i>in big-wave situations.</i>

607
00:28:10,647 --> 00:28:14,526
<i>You know, they're</i>
<i>consummate professionals.</i>

608
00:28:14,609 --> 00:28:16,903
<i>- The remoteness</i>
<i>of where we are</i>

609
00:28:16,986 --> 00:28:19,572
<i>amplifies everything.</i>

610
00:28:19,656 --> 00:28:21,783
<i>We're essentially</i>
<i>hundreds of miles</i>

611
00:28:21,866 --> 00:28:23,993
<i>from any resemblance</i>
<i>of a hospital.</i>

612
00:28:24,077 --> 00:28:26,204
<i>With Jaws and Mavericks,</i>

613
00:28:26,287 --> 00:28:28,581
<i>you can have an ambulance</i>
<i>at the harbor</i>

614
00:28:28,665 --> 00:28:29,999
<i>waiting for you</i>
<i>when you get in</i>

615
00:28:30,083 --> 00:28:32,335
<i>if something really bad</i>
<i>happens.</i>

616
00:28:32,419 --> 00:28:33,503
<i>With where we are,</i>

617
00:28:33,586 --> 00:28:35,922
<i>there's not a single chance</i>
<i>of that happening.</i>

618
00:28:36,005 --> 00:28:37,966
<i>And that's something</i>
<i>we have to think about</i>

619
00:28:38,049 --> 00:28:39,968
<i>and be ready to deal with.</i>

620
00:28:40,051 --> 00:28:41,970
And that's all good.

621
00:28:42,053 --> 00:28:45,014
[bird crying]

622
00:28:58,695 --> 00:29:01,448
- Ah, too wide, that.

623
00:29:01,531 --> 00:29:04,325
There we go.
- Big gap.

624
00:29:04,409 --> 00:29:06,119
- That's a barrel
if it's offshore.

625
00:29:06,202 --> 00:29:08,121
- Big carve right there.

626
00:29:09,456 --> 00:29:10,999
- Come on, honey bunch.

627
00:29:12,834 --> 00:29:15,670
Whoo-hoo.

628
00:29:15,753 --> 00:29:22,677
<i>♪ ♪</i>

629
00:29:22,760 --> 00:29:23,845
<i>- Yeah, we just rocked up</i>

630
00:29:23,928 --> 00:29:28,016
<i>at this beautiful, little</i>
<i>right-hand reef break.</i>

631
00:29:28,099 --> 00:29:31,019
<i>Best-case scenario</i>
<i>is that the new swell</i>

632
00:29:31,102 --> 00:29:34,939
<i>starts to fill in and we start</i>
<i>seeing some 6-, 8-foot waves.</i>

633
00:29:35,023 --> 00:29:41,988
<i>♪ ♪</i>

634
00:30:01,299 --> 00:30:03,218
<i>- Whoo-hoo-hoo.</i>

635
00:30:03,301 --> 00:30:10,266
<i>♪ ♪</i>

636
00:30:15,772 --> 00:30:18,816
<i>- Ah.</i>

637
00:30:18,900 --> 00:30:25,657
<i>♪ ♪</i>

638
00:30:29,786 --> 00:30:32,247
<i>- Yeah,</i>
<i>but that's how it goes, eh?</i>

639
00:30:32,330 --> 00:30:34,832
<i>Wild fucking coast.</i>

640
00:30:34,916 --> 00:30:37,418
<i>♪ ♪</i>

641
00:30:37,502 --> 00:30:40,797
<i>If it was easy,</i>
<i>everyone would be doing it.</i>

642
00:30:40,880 --> 00:30:42,340
Nice one.

643
00:30:44,342 --> 00:30:45,718
He's on it.

644
00:30:45,802 --> 00:30:51,599
<i>♪ ♪</i>

645
00:30:51,683 --> 00:30:54,102
Stay with it.
Stay with it!

646
00:30:54,185 --> 00:30:55,728
There we go.

647
00:30:55,812 --> 00:30:58,940
<i>♪ ♪</i>

648
00:30:59,023 --> 00:31:01,859
<i>The fact that we can come</i>
<i>out here and surf ourselves</i>

649
00:31:01,943 --> 00:31:03,778
<i>and not see</i>
<i>another soul around</i>

650
00:31:03,861 --> 00:31:06,906
<i>is why I live</i>
<i>in this incredible continent.</i>

651
00:31:06,990 --> 00:31:08,783
<i>And for me,</i>

652
00:31:08,866 --> 00:31:10,994
<i>the first time I surf</i>
<i>a new wave,</i>

653
00:31:11,077 --> 00:31:13,496
<i>it's one of the most</i>
<i>exciting things,</i>

654
00:31:13,580 --> 00:31:15,456
<i>you know, that can happen.</i>

655
00:31:15,540 --> 00:31:17,834
- Fuck, that thing's
pretty sick.

656
00:31:17,917 --> 00:31:19,752
<i>- It was the perfect size.</i>

657
00:31:19,836 --> 00:31:26,801
<i>♪ ♪</i>

658
00:31:35,393 --> 00:31:36,644
What they do
is they dig it up,

659
00:31:36,728 --> 00:31:38,688
and they push
all the sand out to sea,

660
00:31:38,771 --> 00:31:41,107
and they make a sea wall,
like, halfway out

661
00:31:41,190 --> 00:31:43,151
and then just dig
everything up underneath.

662
00:31:43,234 --> 00:31:50,199
<i>♪ ♪</i>

663
00:31:57,582 --> 00:32:01,502
<i>Unfortunately, the west coast</i>
<i>is a mining area.</i>

664
00:32:01,586 --> 00:32:04,547
<i>It's rich with minerals.</i>
<i>It's rich with diamonds.</i>

665
00:32:04,631 --> 00:32:07,842
<i>And it's been heavily mined</i>
<i>in the past</i>

666
00:32:07,925 --> 00:32:09,969
<i>but not to the extent</i>
<i>that we're seeing</i>

667
00:32:10,053 --> 00:32:12,847
<i>this new form of mining</i>
<i>that's come along.</i>

668
00:32:12,930 --> 00:32:15,516
<i>Digging up the beach,</i>
<i>pushing the sea wall back,</i>

669
00:32:15,600 --> 00:32:19,354
<i>and then completely excavating</i>
<i>the entire beach...</i>

670
00:32:19,437 --> 00:32:20,938
<i>and then just leaving.</i>

671
00:32:21,022 --> 00:32:23,524
<i>♪ ♪</i>

672
00:32:23,608 --> 00:32:25,652
<i>It's an Australian</i>
<i>mining company,</i>

673
00:32:25,735 --> 00:32:29,489
<i>and this form of mining</i>
<i>was banned in Australia</i>

674
00:32:29,572 --> 00:32:31,407
<i>in the 1970s.</i>

675
00:32:32,992 --> 00:32:35,953
<i>They've been given</i>
<i>10 beaches.</i>

676
00:32:36,037 --> 00:32:38,998
<i>It's like 50 kilometers</i>
<i>of beach,</i>

677
00:32:39,082 --> 00:32:40,333
<i>and they're gonna dig up</i>

678
00:32:40,416 --> 00:32:43,753
<i>every single one</i>
<i>of those beaches.</i>

679
00:32:43,836 --> 00:32:46,339
<i>I mean, you know,</i>
<i>we've started a coalition.</i>

680
00:32:46,422 --> 00:32:47,840
<i>It's called</i>
<i>Protect the West Coast,</i>

681
00:32:47,924 --> 00:32:49,217
<i>you know, and we're trying</i>
<i>to fight it,</i>

682
00:32:49,300 --> 00:32:51,052
<i>but it's hard, you know?</i>

683
00:32:51,135 --> 00:32:54,222
<i>We just don't have that kind</i>
<i>of environmental klatch here.</i>

684
00:32:54,305 --> 00:32:56,099
[siren wails]

685
00:32:56,182 --> 00:33:00,144
<i>♪ ♪</i>

686
00:33:00,228 --> 00:33:01,896
<i>- It is pretty sad, though,</i>
<i>isn't it?</i>

687
00:33:01,979 --> 00:33:03,981
<i>- Why is it illegal to dig up</i>
<i>beaches in Australia</i>

688
00:33:04,065 --> 00:33:05,400
<i>and not elsewhere</i>
<i>in the world?</i>

689
00:33:05,483 --> 00:33:07,193
<i>- Yeah.</i>
<i>- And that's kind of the angle</i>

690
00:33:07,276 --> 00:33:09,612
<i>that we're trying</i>
<i>to fight it on.</i>

691
00:33:09,696 --> 00:33:11,781
<i>- It makes no sense to me.</i>

692
00:33:11,864 --> 00:33:15,243
- They're coming to this beach
to dig this whole thing up...

693
00:33:17,245 --> 00:33:22,083
And ban us from coming here
in the next, like, two years.

694
00:33:33,720 --> 00:33:35,972
- Just kind of puts
little ideas in your head of,

695
00:33:36,055 --> 00:33:37,932
if it's small
or wind's this way,

696
00:33:38,015 --> 00:33:39,434
maybe we can go there.

697
00:33:39,517 --> 00:33:41,519
It's good to see
for the sand, too,

698
00:33:41,602 --> 00:33:44,564
to see where some
of the good banks might be,

699
00:33:44,647 --> 00:33:45,898
kind of to paint a picture

700
00:33:45,982 --> 00:33:47,734
of where we might want
to go in the morning

701
00:33:47,817 --> 00:33:49,527
with what the swell did today.

702
00:33:49,610 --> 00:33:52,113
- Yeah, I mean,
we're always hopeful.

703
00:33:52,196 --> 00:33:53,406
We wouldn't be surfers

704
00:33:53,489 --> 00:33:55,408
if we weren't hopeful
for tomorrow.

705
00:33:55,491 --> 00:33:58,411
- And looks like we have
a few days of weird weather.

706
00:33:58,494 --> 00:33:59,746
But on the other side of that,

707
00:33:59,829 --> 00:34:02,498
we might have pretty good surf.

708
00:34:02,582 --> 00:34:05,001
[soft music playing]

709
00:34:05,084 --> 00:34:10,256
<i>♪ ♪</i>

710
00:34:10,339 --> 00:34:13,801
<i>[dramatic music]</i>

711
00:34:13,885 --> 00:34:20,808
<i>♪ ♪</i>

712
00:34:20,892 --> 00:34:23,686
<i>We have a little...</i>

713
00:34:23,770 --> 00:34:27,648
<i>chunky, windy storm surf.</i>

714
00:34:27,732 --> 00:34:29,067
<i>Still looks kind of fun.</i>

715
00:34:29,150 --> 00:34:32,278
<i>It's a couple waves to be had,</i>
<i>but exciting.</i>

716
00:34:32,361 --> 00:34:38,326
<i>♪ ♪</i>

717
00:34:38,409 --> 00:34:41,662
- Oh, there's a drainer.
There's a drainer.

718
00:34:41,746 --> 00:34:43,289
I'm just gonna go out, bro.

719
00:34:43,372 --> 00:34:44,916
<i>- Yeah, let's do it.</i>

720
00:34:44,999 --> 00:34:49,670
<i>♪ ♪</i>

721
00:34:49,754 --> 00:34:51,714
<i>- Really good waves</i>
<i>at this reef</i>

722
00:34:51,798 --> 00:34:53,049
<i>just to the right of the camp.</i>

723
00:34:53,132 --> 00:34:54,675
<i>That swell direction,</i>
<i>the wind direction's</i>

724
00:34:54,759 --> 00:34:56,177
<i>just perfect for it,</i>

725
00:34:56,260 --> 00:34:59,555
<i>so we're gonna go check it out</i>
<i>and just have a surf,</i>

726
00:34:59,639 --> 00:35:02,350
<i>but the storm is just--</i>
<i>it's brewing.</i>

727
00:35:02,433 --> 00:35:04,268
<i>So we've got</i>
<i>kind of a small window here,</i>

728
00:35:04,352 --> 00:35:05,978
<i>maybe a two-hour window</i>

729
00:35:06,062 --> 00:35:07,688
<i>where we can get</i>
<i>a couple waves</i>

730
00:35:07,772 --> 00:35:10,316
<i>and come in and get ready</i>
<i>for the storm.</i>

731
00:35:10,399 --> 00:35:17,365
<i>♪ ♪</i>

732
00:35:28,626 --> 00:35:30,753
<i>Whoo.</i>
<i>All right, Ian.</i>

733
00:35:30,837 --> 00:35:34,048
<i>♪ ♪</i>

734
00:35:34,132 --> 00:35:35,716
<i>- Oh, watch it, watch it.</i>

735
00:35:35,800 --> 00:35:38,094
[engine revving]

736
00:35:38,177 --> 00:35:39,846
<i>Oh, here we go.</i>
<i>What a whip.</i>

737
00:35:39,929 --> 00:35:41,389
<i>- He's up and away.</i>

738
00:35:41,472 --> 00:35:43,975
<i>♪ ♪</i>

739
00:35:44,058 --> 00:35:45,852
<i>- Fuck!</i>
<i>- Uh-oh.</i>

740
00:35:47,311 --> 00:35:49,021
<i>Can you guys see Twig?</i>

741
00:35:50,940 --> 00:35:54,610
<i>- I got eyes on Twiggy.</i>
<i>He's being picked up.</i>

742
00:35:54,694 --> 00:35:56,195
<i>- Yeah, yeah,</i>
<i>this one, this one.</i>

743
00:35:56,279 --> 00:35:57,572
<i>- Go, go, go, go, go!</i>

744
00:35:57,655 --> 00:36:02,869
<i>♪ ♪</i>

745
00:36:02,952 --> 00:36:06,747
<i>- Yee-haw!</i>

746
00:36:06,831 --> 00:36:13,629
<i>♪ ♪</i>

747
00:36:13,713 --> 00:36:15,631
- Pretty awesome, eh?

748
00:36:15,715 --> 00:36:18,551
New wave, and it's got
a lot of potential.

749
00:36:18,634 --> 00:36:20,303
<i>Kind of got an idea</i>
<i>on the tide</i>

750
00:36:20,386 --> 00:36:22,388
<i>and the swell size, too.</i>

751
00:36:22,471 --> 00:36:25,266
<i>There's an optimum tide</i>
<i>and swell size out there.</i>

752
00:36:25,349 --> 00:36:28,769
So, very promising
for a big day.

753
00:36:28,853 --> 00:36:31,772
Clean, offshore winds--
could be amazing out there.

754
00:36:31,856 --> 00:36:33,858
<i>That's how you find</i>
<i>new waves.</i>

755
00:36:42,491 --> 00:36:44,744
<i>- Still a lot of swell</i>
<i>in the water.</i>

756
00:36:44,827 --> 00:36:47,413
<i>We have a shift in wind.</i>

757
00:36:47,496 --> 00:36:49,916
<i>Looks like</i>
<i>it's gonna swing this way.</i>

758
00:36:49,999 --> 00:36:53,461
And we'll get some pretty ugly
southwest wind

759
00:36:53,544 --> 00:36:55,796
and maybe some rain tomorrow,

760
00:36:55,880 --> 00:36:57,673
which is...

761
00:36:57,757 --> 00:37:01,135
definitely gonna make
for an interesting camp.

762
00:37:07,350 --> 00:37:10,436
[thunder rumbling]

763
00:37:12,104 --> 00:37:16,067
<i>♪ ♪</i>

764
00:37:16,150 --> 00:37:18,945
<i>We met some weather</i>
<i>last night.</i>

765
00:37:19,028 --> 00:37:22,949
We had a stiff
40-mile-an-hour wind.

766
00:37:23,032 --> 00:37:26,577
<i>And on the other side</i>
<i>of that 40-mile-an-hour wind,</i>

767
00:37:26,661 --> 00:37:31,457
we had some pelting rain
for about ten hours.

768
00:37:31,540 --> 00:37:33,167
My tent was a casualty.

769
00:37:33,250 --> 00:37:35,544
It was a classic night
of weather.

770
00:37:35,628 --> 00:37:42,635
<i>♪ ♪</i>

771
00:37:44,971 --> 00:37:47,348
- Looks a bit ugly out there
at the moment, yeah?

772
00:37:47,431 --> 00:37:50,935
- Looks like a front's
blowing in right behind me.

773
00:37:55,106 --> 00:37:57,650
<i>♪ ♪</i>

774
00:37:57,733 --> 00:38:00,361
Come on, fours.
[sighs]

775
00:38:00,444 --> 00:38:02,905
<i>♪ ♪</i>

776
00:38:02,989 --> 00:38:05,074
<i>It can be testing at times</i>

777
00:38:05,157 --> 00:38:07,994
<i>in these kind of conditions--</i>
<i>the rain and the wind--</i>

778
00:38:08,077 --> 00:38:11,497
<i>but that's what it takes</i>
<i>to find these new waves.</i>

779
00:38:11,580 --> 00:38:15,584
<i>And for me, I love</i>
<i>all of it, you know?</i>

780
00:38:15,668 --> 00:38:18,546
<i>I love to be out here.</i>

781
00:38:18,629 --> 00:38:21,841
<i>I mean, it's one of the last</i>
<i>beautiful natural places</i>

782
00:38:21,924 --> 00:38:23,843
<i>on the planet, really,</i>
<i>you know?</i>

783
00:38:23,926 --> 00:38:26,929
<i>And it really makes</i>
<i>you appreciate</i>

784
00:38:27,013 --> 00:38:30,433
<i>how little you actually need</i>
<i>in life.</i>

785
00:38:30,516 --> 00:38:35,813
<i>♪ ♪</i>

786
00:38:37,606 --> 00:38:39,859
- Get 'em on.
It's already wet.

787
00:38:39,942 --> 00:38:42,194
Ooh, that's nice.
Super nice.

788
00:38:44,822 --> 00:38:47,199
- Tomorrow's probably gonna be
our biggest day out here.

789
00:38:47,283 --> 00:38:48,659
- Yeah.
- But I think we should aim

790
00:38:48,743 --> 00:38:51,203
for The Peak and see
what we can do out there.

791
00:38:51,287 --> 00:38:52,538
It'll get bigger
through the day.

792
00:38:52,621 --> 00:38:53,748
It'll be biggest
just before dark.

793
00:38:53,831 --> 00:38:54,749
- Yeah.

794
00:38:54,832 --> 00:38:57,585
<i>- The update looks</i>
<i>very positive for waves.</i>

795
00:38:57,668 --> 00:38:59,587
<i>We're gonna have</i>
<i>a small window</i>

796
00:38:59,670 --> 00:39:01,088
<i>tomorrow afternoon,</i>

797
00:39:01,172 --> 00:39:03,257
<i>on the low tide</i>
<i>as the swell's peaking,</i>

798
00:39:03,340 --> 00:39:04,383
<i>to get out there,</i>

799
00:39:04,467 --> 00:39:07,094
<i>so, you know, hopefully</i>
<i>there's a couple waves.</i>

800
00:39:07,178 --> 00:39:08,471
Just moving with the punches.

801
00:39:08,554 --> 00:39:10,097
I mean, if we wake up

802
00:39:10,181 --> 00:39:12,933
<i>and it's much bigger,</i>
<i>then we know.</i>

803
00:39:13,017 --> 00:39:14,393
<i>- Yeah.</i>

804
00:39:16,062 --> 00:39:21,233
<i>♪ ♪</i>

805
00:39:21,317 --> 00:39:23,069
<i>- Doing a little surf check,</i>

806
00:39:23,152 --> 00:39:26,572
and ocean looks
a lot more organized

807
00:39:26,655 --> 00:39:28,491
than it has the last few days,

808
00:39:28,574 --> 00:39:32,411
after that little storm front
blew through.

809
00:39:32,495 --> 00:39:35,331
Today the waves are supposed
to get big through the day.

810
00:39:36,832 --> 00:39:38,584
<i>- Tide's a little high,</i>

811
00:39:38,667 --> 00:39:40,294
<i>swell's a touch small,</i>

812
00:39:40,377 --> 00:39:42,671
<i>but it's still looking</i>
<i>really good.</i>

813
00:39:42,755 --> 00:39:44,006
Our hope for the afternoon

814
00:39:44,090 --> 00:39:46,050
is some big waves
at The Peak, you know?

815
00:39:46,133 --> 00:39:47,968
That's been our goal
the whole way through.

816
00:39:48,052 --> 00:39:51,347
And so hopefully we see that.

817
00:39:51,430 --> 00:39:53,057
<i>I do believe that The Peak</i>

818
00:39:53,140 --> 00:39:55,059
<i>could be one of the</i>
<i>biggest waves in the world.</i>

819
00:39:55,142 --> 00:39:57,269
<i>The bathymetry</i>
<i>of the ocean floor</i>

820
00:39:57,353 --> 00:39:59,605
<i>goes from super deep</i>
<i>to shallow,</i>

821
00:39:59,688 --> 00:40:01,440
<i>and that's,</i>
<i>from my experience,</i>

822
00:40:01,524 --> 00:40:03,234
<i>what makes big waves.</i>

823
00:40:03,317 --> 00:40:05,444
<i>The question now is,</i>
<i>how much swell</i>

824
00:40:05,528 --> 00:40:09,240
<i>and what conditions</i>
<i>does it need to be optimal?</i>

825
00:40:09,323 --> 00:40:12,993
Location, booties,
wetsuit, let's go.

826
00:40:13,077 --> 00:40:14,245
- Yeah, I'm ready.

827
00:40:14,328 --> 00:40:16,163
<i>♪ ♪</i>

828
00:40:16,247 --> 00:40:18,040
<i>The big swell</i>
<i>we were following</i>

829
00:40:18,124 --> 00:40:19,792
<i>has downgraded a little bit,</i>

830
00:40:19,875 --> 00:40:22,419
<i>so it's teeter-tottering</i>
<i>on the line</i>

831
00:40:22,503 --> 00:40:24,672
<i>of being big enough</i>

832
00:40:24,755 --> 00:40:27,341
<i>or not big enough</i>
<i>for The Peak.</i>

833
00:40:27,424 --> 00:40:29,677
<i>- Come on, baby.</i>

834
00:40:29,760 --> 00:40:32,221
<i>Yes!</i>

835
00:40:32,304 --> 00:40:35,266
<i>Yes!</i>

836
00:40:35,349 --> 00:40:37,226
Now we wait for the swell.

837
00:40:37,309 --> 00:40:44,275
<i>♪ ♪</i>

838
00:40:45,401 --> 00:40:47,403
Fuck, this wind...

839
00:40:49,321 --> 00:40:51,532
Mustn't go south on us now.

840
00:40:51,615 --> 00:40:54,076
God damn it.

841
00:40:54,160 --> 00:40:55,619
<i>- Ready?</i>
<i>- Let's go.</i>

842
00:40:55,703 --> 00:40:56,996
- Okay.

843
00:40:57,079 --> 00:41:00,374
Let's give him a push to get
him to the water's edge.

844
00:41:00,457 --> 00:41:02,543
Keep going. Keep going.

845
00:41:02,626 --> 00:41:04,253
Right to the whitewash line.

846
00:41:04,336 --> 00:41:09,550
<i>♪ ♪</i>

847
00:41:09,633 --> 00:41:11,552
<i>You do all this research,</i>

848
00:41:11,635 --> 00:41:13,179
<i>and you try to figure out,</i>

849
00:41:13,262 --> 00:41:14,680
<i>could there be</i>
<i>a big wave there?</i>

850
00:41:14,763 --> 00:41:16,765
<i>How are we gonna get out?</i>
<i>How do we get in?</i>

851
00:41:16,849 --> 00:41:18,559
<i>What do we do if we get</i>
<i>caught inside?</i>

852
00:41:18,642 --> 00:41:22,396
<i>And then to actually see it</i>
<i>come to life</i>

853
00:41:22,480 --> 00:41:24,773
<i>and see the wave break,</i>

854
00:41:24,857 --> 00:41:28,319
<i>we're getting a glimpse</i>
<i>of what this coastline can do.</i>

855
00:41:28,402 --> 00:41:35,367
<i>♪ ♪</i>

856
00:41:39,496 --> 00:41:42,833
<i>Come on, set,</i>
<i>give us something here.</i>

857
00:41:42,917 --> 00:41:44,210
<i>- Oh, what's this back one?</i>

858
00:41:44,293 --> 00:41:46,670
<i>This one could be</i>
<i>the roll-in behind.</i>

859
00:41:46,754 --> 00:41:49,965
<i>- I mean, not the best,</i>
<i>but it's getting there.</i>

860
00:41:50,049 --> 00:41:53,844
<i>♪ ♪</i>

861
00:41:53,928 --> 00:41:57,473
<i>- Look at this one.</i>
<i>Look at this one.</i>

862
00:41:57,556 --> 00:42:04,521
<i>♪ ♪</i>

863
00:42:08,651 --> 00:42:09,944
<i>- Here comes a big set.</i>

864
00:42:10,027 --> 00:42:16,992
<i>♪ ♪</i>

865
00:42:19,495 --> 00:42:21,914
<i>- Oh. So close.</i>
<i>- Yeah.</i>

866
00:42:21,997 --> 00:42:24,959
<i>- If this was bigger,</i>
<i>it would be on.</i>

867
00:42:25,042 --> 00:42:26,418
<i>- Like, you're sitting</i>
<i>out there</i>

868
00:42:26,502 --> 00:42:30,756
<i>and seeing these big wedges</i>
<i>come slinging at you,</i>

869
00:42:30,839 --> 00:42:32,925
<i>and you can start</i>
<i>to visualize,</i>

870
00:42:33,008 --> 00:42:37,012
<i>what would this wave do</i>
<i>five times the size of this?</i>

871
00:42:38,889 --> 00:42:45,854
<i>♪ ♪</i>

872
00:42:48,190 --> 00:42:51,235
<i>- Whoa!</i>
<i>[chuckles]</i>

873
00:42:53,862 --> 00:42:55,990
<i>I mean, we had</i>
<i>so much fun,</i>

874
00:42:56,073 --> 00:42:58,617
<i>but it's what it holds</i>
<i>in the future</i>

875
00:42:58,701 --> 00:43:00,494
<i>that's really exciting.</i>

876
00:43:00,577 --> 00:43:07,626
<i>♪ ♪</i>

877
00:43:13,549 --> 00:43:17,303
<i>My feelings are this is</i>
<i>a world, world-class big wave,</i>

878
00:43:17,386 --> 00:43:21,056
<i>but it needs giant,</i>
<i>giant swell to break.</i>

879
00:43:21,140 --> 00:43:27,521
<i>♪ ♪</i>

880
00:43:27,605 --> 00:43:28,689
<i>Oh, shit.</i>

881
00:43:28,772 --> 00:43:30,482
<i>Not quite.</i>

882
00:43:32,359 --> 00:43:34,153
<i>- It was definitely a peak.</i>

883
00:43:34,236 --> 00:43:35,821
<i>The name's fitting.</i>

884
00:43:35,904 --> 00:43:37,698
<i>That will hold a giant swell.</i>

885
00:43:37,781 --> 00:43:39,158
Tons of potential.

886
00:43:39,241 --> 00:43:41,160
Definitely psyched
on the potential.

887
00:43:41,243 --> 00:43:44,163
And you could see
if that thing had

888
00:43:44,246 --> 00:43:46,165
the megalodon swell,

889
00:43:46,248 --> 00:43:49,710
it'd be something
very, very spicy.

890
00:43:55,591 --> 00:43:58,302
<i>- Even though the swell's</i>
<i>not big enough for The Peak,</i>

891
00:43:58,385 --> 00:44:00,512
<i>it's still plenty big enough</i>
<i>for the beach breaks,</i>

892
00:44:00,596 --> 00:44:02,598
<i>which needs</i>
<i>a little bit less swell.</i>

893
00:44:02,681 --> 00:44:04,475
<i>So, as the swell dies tonight</i>

894
00:44:04,558 --> 00:44:07,561
<i>and we get some offshore winds</i>
<i>early in the morning,</i>

895
00:44:07,644 --> 00:44:09,730
<i>there'll only be a</i>
<i>small window tomorrow morning,</i>

896
00:44:09,813 --> 00:44:13,108
<i>but we've just got to be up</i>
<i>early and get on it.</i>

897
00:44:19,114 --> 00:44:22,868
<i>- We'll be ready to move</i>
<i>at 6:30.</i>

898
00:44:22,951 --> 00:44:26,372
And if the swell
has really started to fill in,

899
00:44:26,455 --> 00:44:29,666
then maybe get a session
close to camp here

900
00:44:29,750 --> 00:44:31,085
at this beach break.

901
00:44:31,168 --> 00:44:32,419
It's gonna be really difficult

902
00:44:32,503 --> 00:44:34,755
to get the Jet Skis
with the whole crew out

903
00:44:34,838 --> 00:44:37,716
through potentially
25-foot beach break

904
00:44:37,800 --> 00:44:40,803
that we have no idea
how far out it's gonna go.

905
00:44:40,886 --> 00:44:43,347
- So, obviously,
we got to just be on it.

906
00:44:43,430 --> 00:44:45,557
We don't know
what's going on there,

907
00:44:45,641 --> 00:44:47,393
so for you guys,
just really,

908
00:44:47,476 --> 00:44:48,685
you know, wits about you and--

909
00:44:48,769 --> 00:44:53,565
- And if, for whatever reason,
we lose a ski,

910
00:44:53,649 --> 00:44:58,320
then Twig and I would just tow
this one, just so that's--

911
00:44:58,404 --> 00:45:00,447
that other ski,
if it makes it out,

912
00:45:00,531 --> 00:45:03,033
come in,
pick up the other surfer.

913
00:45:03,117 --> 00:45:04,993
And if we paddle,

914
00:45:05,077 --> 00:45:07,287
then this just becomes a safety
with one guy.

915
00:45:07,371 --> 00:45:14,378
<i>♪ ♪</i>

916
00:45:27,433 --> 00:45:28,976
<i>- I'm going now, bro.</i>

917
00:45:29,059 --> 00:45:31,770
I'm not waiting around.

918
00:45:31,854 --> 00:45:34,648
We got to get going.
- All right.

919
00:45:34,731 --> 00:45:39,153
<i>♪ ♪</i>

920
00:45:39,236 --> 00:45:41,989
- Come on, guys,
the sun's coming up.

921
00:45:42,072 --> 00:45:44,450
<i>♪ ♪</i>

922
00:45:44,533 --> 00:45:46,201
Here they come.

923
00:45:47,703 --> 00:45:50,122
<i>There's always fear there,</i>
<i>obviously.</i>

924
00:45:50,205 --> 00:45:52,583
<i>And what you get</i>
<i>out of big-wave surfing</i>

925
00:45:52,666 --> 00:45:56,628
<i>is you learn to be able</i>
<i>to control that fear</i>

926
00:45:56,712 --> 00:45:59,840
<i>and then use that fear</i>
<i>to guide you</i>

927
00:45:59,923 --> 00:46:02,634
<i>and to help you make...</i>

928
00:46:02,718 --> 00:46:05,220
<i>good decisions.</i>

929
00:46:05,304 --> 00:46:08,515
- [grunts]
- Right. Good.

930
00:46:08,599 --> 00:46:11,018
- Two, three.
- [grunts]

931
00:46:11,101 --> 00:46:17,983
<i>♪ ♪</i>

932
00:46:18,066 --> 00:46:20,360
<i>- There you go,</i>
<i>there you go.</i>

933
00:46:20,444 --> 00:46:22,112
<i>Uh-oh.</i>

934
00:46:22,196 --> 00:46:24,823
<i>That thing</i>
<i>not fucking starting or what?</i>

935
00:46:24,907 --> 00:46:27,493
<i>Oh, for fuck sakes.</i>

936
00:46:27,576 --> 00:46:29,203
<i>What the fuck?</i>

937
00:46:29,286 --> 00:46:32,998
<i>♪ ♪</i>

938
00:46:33,081 --> 00:46:35,959
<i>Get that rope.</i>
<i>Get that rope!</i>

939
00:46:36,043 --> 00:46:38,837
- [shouts indistinctly]

940
00:46:39,963 --> 00:46:41,715
- Was it nothing,
or was it going...

941
00:46:41,798 --> 00:46:43,217
[imitates sputtering]
Like that?

942
00:46:43,300 --> 00:46:44,551
[loud pop]

943
00:46:44,635 --> 00:46:47,679
What was that?
- It did not do that.

944
00:46:47,763 --> 00:46:49,723
<i>- There's something</i>
<i>not right to me.</i>

945
00:46:49,806 --> 00:46:52,684
- Watch the drainer.
- Watch that rope there.

946
00:46:52,768 --> 00:46:56,897
<i>♪ ♪</i>

947
00:46:56,980 --> 00:46:59,691
- Is it going now?
- No, exhaust manifold's--

948
00:46:59,775 --> 00:47:02,277
We just need to tighten
that hose clamp, check.

949
00:47:03,904 --> 00:47:06,198
- Why don't we get
Twig's ski down--

950
00:47:06,281 --> 00:47:08,242
Twiggy's ski down
and you guys go?

951
00:47:08,325 --> 00:47:10,035
- Yeah.

952
00:47:10,118 --> 00:47:12,829
[engine turns over, stops]

953
00:47:12,913 --> 00:47:15,082
<i>- Okay, you got it?</i>

954
00:47:15,165 --> 00:47:18,252
<i>♪ ♪</i>

955
00:47:18,335 --> 00:47:20,587
[engine revving]

956
00:47:20,671 --> 00:47:23,590
<i>♪ ♪</i>

957
00:47:23,674 --> 00:47:25,926
<i>- After this next wave.</i>

958
00:47:26,009 --> 00:47:32,933
<i>♪ ♪</i>

959
00:47:33,016 --> 00:47:34,810
<i>- All right, here we go.</i>

960
00:47:34,893 --> 00:47:37,729
<i>♪ ♪</i>

961
00:47:37,813 --> 00:47:39,189
<i>- Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!</i>

962
00:47:39,273 --> 00:47:46,238
<i>♪ ♪</i>

963
00:47:47,364 --> 00:47:49,283
<i>- Yeah, this one.</i>
<i>This one!</i>

964
00:47:49,366 --> 00:47:55,289
<i>♪ ♪</i>

965
00:47:55,372 --> 00:47:57,541
<i>Go, go, go, go, go!</i>

966
00:47:57,624 --> 00:47:58,917
<i>Go, Ian.</i>

967
00:47:59,001 --> 00:48:05,966
<i>♪ ♪</i>

968
00:48:09,428 --> 00:48:11,805
<i>Whoo-hoo-hoo!</i>

969
00:48:11,888 --> 00:48:18,854
<i>♪ ♪</i>

970
00:48:40,042 --> 00:48:42,836
<i>Whoo-hoo-hoo-hoo!</i>
<i>Yeah!</i>

971
00:48:42,919 --> 00:48:44,796
<i>- He's up on a wave.</i>

972
00:48:44,880 --> 00:48:48,800
<i>♪ ♪</i>

973
00:48:48,884 --> 00:48:51,011
<i>- Oh.</i>
<i>- Uh-oh.</i>

974
00:48:51,094 --> 00:48:52,804
<i>- The one after that one.</i>

975
00:48:52,888 --> 00:48:57,684
<i>♪ ♪</i>

976
00:48:57,768 --> 00:48:59,561
<i>- [coughing]</i>
<i>- I got eyes on.</i>

977
00:48:59,645 --> 00:49:02,189
<i>He's all right.</i>
<i>Just an impact throw.</i>

978
00:49:02,272 --> 00:49:03,940
<i>Waiting for a pickup.</i>

979
00:49:04,024 --> 00:49:10,989
<i>♪ ♪</i>

980
00:49:14,409 --> 00:49:16,161
<i>- Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.</i>

981
00:49:16,244 --> 00:49:17,746
[engine revs]

982
00:49:17,829 --> 00:49:20,040
<i>- That was a crazy pickup.</i>

983
00:49:20,123 --> 00:49:27,130
<i>♪ ♪</i>

984
00:49:53,031 --> 00:49:58,704
<i>- Whoo!</i>
<i>- Yeah!</i>

985
00:49:58,787 --> 00:50:04,668
<i>[laughs] Whoo!</i>

986
00:50:10,006 --> 00:50:12,092
- Good driving
from both of you.

987
00:50:12,175 --> 00:50:15,470
Though a couple of pickups
Ian did were insane.

988
00:50:15,554 --> 00:50:18,265
<i>- Bit of a rough start</i>
<i>to the day--</i>

989
00:50:18,348 --> 00:50:20,600
one Jet Ski down.

990
00:50:20,684 --> 00:50:23,145
The entire exhaust pipe
opened up,

991
00:50:23,228 --> 00:50:25,272
and you could stick
your finger in it.

992
00:50:25,355 --> 00:50:27,941
<i>Radical inside there.</i>

993
00:50:28,024 --> 00:50:30,694
- Big--when we first got
out there, it was really big.

994
00:50:30,777 --> 00:50:32,070
both: Rowdy.

995
00:50:32,154 --> 00:50:33,572
- Rowdy. Such good fun.

996
00:50:33,655 --> 00:50:35,699
<i>- Just as exciting</i>
<i>getting back out</i>

997
00:50:35,782 --> 00:50:37,451
<i>after the waves.</i>
<i>[chuckles]</i>

998
00:50:37,534 --> 00:50:42,080
<i>♪ ♪</i>

999
00:50:42,164 --> 00:50:45,917
<i>- There's no doubt--I mean,</i>
<i>this is a world-class zone.</i>

1000
00:50:46,001 --> 00:50:48,128
<i>You know, even though</i>
<i>we didn't score The Peak,</i>

1001
00:50:48,211 --> 00:50:49,713
<i>you know, the waves</i>
<i>that we've found,</i>

1002
00:50:49,796 --> 00:50:51,298
<i>the waves that we've surfed,</i>

1003
00:50:51,381 --> 00:50:54,509
<i>put this little stretch</i>
<i>of coast on the map.</i>

1004
00:50:54,593 --> 00:50:57,888
<i>And we're gonna be back</i>
<i>for sure.</i>

1005
00:50:57,971 --> 00:51:00,932
<i>And I'm sure there's gonna be</i>
<i>a lot of other surfers</i>

1006
00:51:01,016 --> 00:51:04,311
<i>wondering where this place is</i>
<i>and wanting to get it.</i>

1007
00:51:04,394 --> 00:51:08,106
<i>[indistinct chatter]</i>

1008
00:51:08,190 --> 00:51:09,900
<i>[laughter]</i>

1009
00:51:09,983 --> 00:51:11,651
<i>- We came out here</i>

1010
00:51:11,735 --> 00:51:15,322
<i>with a goal</i>
<i>to find undiscovered surf</i>

1011
00:51:15,405 --> 00:51:18,116
<i>and potentially</i>
<i>new big-wave locations.</i>

1012
00:51:18,200 --> 00:51:22,287
<i>And during this trip,</i>
<i>we were able to find way more.</i>

1013
00:51:22,370 --> 00:51:25,332
<i>There are waves</i>
<i>everywhere we look.</i>

1014
00:51:27,125 --> 00:51:29,336
<i>The potential</i>
<i>for really good surf</i>

1015
00:51:29,419 --> 00:51:30,921
<i>is just littered</i>

1016
00:51:31,004 --> 00:51:32,964
<i>throughout</i>
<i>this entire coastline.</i>

1017
00:51:33,048 --> 00:51:35,258
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1018
00:51:35,342 --> 00:51:37,427
<i>- A place like this</i>
<i>is gonna reward you</i>

1019
00:51:37,511 --> 00:51:39,554
<i>for your efforts.</i>

1020
00:51:39,638 --> 00:51:40,972
<i>So all these waves exist</i>

1021
00:51:41,056 --> 00:51:45,769
<i>because Africa is still raw,</i>
<i>undiscovered, wild.</i>

1022
00:51:45,852 --> 00:51:48,355
<i>It's still got that feeling.</i>

1023
00:51:48,438 --> 00:51:51,566
<i>I mean, from Cape Town</i>
<i>to northern Namibia</i>

1024
00:51:51,650 --> 00:51:54,319
<i>to northern Angola,</i>
<i>it just keeps going.</i>

1025
00:51:54,402 --> 00:51:58,698
<i>Kind of mind-boggling to think</i>
<i>of the potential</i>

1026
00:51:58,782 --> 00:52:03,203
<i>of how many waves there are</i>
<i>still to be discovered.</i>

1027
00:52:03,286 --> 00:52:05,747
<i>It's a lot of a time,</i>
<i>it's a lot of commitment,</i>

1028
00:52:05,831 --> 00:52:08,125
<i>but when you get</i>
<i>those special moments,</i>

1029
00:52:08,208 --> 00:52:10,168
<i>it's just so, so rewarding.</i>

1030
00:52:10,252 --> 00:52:17,217
<i>♪ ♪</i>

1031
00:53:22,532 --> 00:53:25,535
[bright tone]