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[intercom chiming]
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[Eugene Levy]
They say to travel is to live.
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Well, maybe, if a day at the airport
doesn't suck the life out of you first.
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I mean, where else would you be told
to arrive two hours early...
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- [metal detector beeping]
- ...only to become dangerously close
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to being two hours late?
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Still, I think my travels last year
were good for me.
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They seemed to broaden my outlook.
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To a degree.
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So now, I'm taking on
what is apparently a must-do
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for any respectable traveler.
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[intercom chiming]
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I'm doing Europe.
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All right. Where are we, exactly?
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I'm going all continental...
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from the very top to the very bottom.
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I'm heading off the beaten track
to discover some real hidden gems...
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Are you getting this?
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...and embrace
this budding spirit for adventure.
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Look at me. No hands.
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Oh.
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They're right here. What is this, the bow?
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I'll be educating my taste buds...
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- [laughs]
- Wow, that was so good.
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[whistles] Grapes are ready.
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- ...and trying to live like a local.
- [dancers singing, cheering]
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- Welcome to my village.
- [laughs]
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- [Levy] This is insane.
- [sheep bleating]
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I just saved your life. Remember me.
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I'm packing any worries in my luggage...
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[imitates moose call]
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Here they come. Here they come.
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You never know what the body's gonna do
when it's in abject terror.
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I don't think I've done anything
quite like this since I was a kid.
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- [cheering]
- ...and I'm about to utter three words
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I've never said before.
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Ready for takeoff.
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Okay, let's be honest.
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You would never come to me for
travel advice, and I don't blame you.
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But if you did, I would say
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this is hands down my favorite
country to visit in the world.
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[Levy] My love for Italy was sparked
by visits to Rome and Venice.
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Now, I'm back to discover
what it is about this place
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that always leaves me wanting more.
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The Italians talk about la dolce vita,
the sweet life.
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Well, my life's been pretty good so far,
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but who wouldn't want
a bit of a sugar rush every now and then?
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But how do they achieve that life?
What's their secret?
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I'm hoping Florence and the rest
of Tuscany might hold the answer.
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[horn honks]
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- My name is Sauro.
- Eugene.
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Okay, nice to meet you. Here you are.
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[Levy] Grazie mille.
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I've just used up all my Italian.
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[chuckles]
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[Levy] In Germany, I drank wheatgrass
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and, um, chewed broth.
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So now I'm ready for a spot of indulgence.
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And where better to look
than in beautiful Tuscany?
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Starting in Florence,
the region's capital.
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The home of the Renaissance.
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It's really a stunning view
from up here, Sauro.
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[Sauro] Yeah, it's a perfect view.
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[Levy] A city stuffed with art,
culture, and...
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- [horns honking]
- Oh, trash.
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- [Sauro] Yeah, I think so.
- [Levy] Not exactly what I had in mind.
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I can see garbage trucks back home.
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There's a reason
they might need a lot of garbage trucks...
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Oh, boy.
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...a lot of tourists.
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Florence draws 16 million each year.
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A lot of people wanna see Florence.
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Uh-huh.
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I'm not proud of it.
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But if you think I'm a bad traveler,
then I'm a terrible tourist.
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There's too many people.
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But if I'm gonna see Florence properly...
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Wow.
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...I'll need to learn a vital skill,
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the ancient art of sightseeing.
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Hi, welcome to Italy, Eugene.
Such a pleasure to meet you.
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- Buongiorno.
- Buongiorno.
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Good to see you.
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Welcome to Italy, and welcome to Florence.
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Uh, let's go around,
and I'll show you around.
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Yeah, sure.
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As a guide, Emiliano is passionate about
Italian history,
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culture, and Florence itself.
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Every Italian is connected to Florence.
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Our language itself is from Florence.
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It's part of ourselves, to be honest.
It's difficult to put it into words.
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- Uh, I can tell you're Italian.
- Yeah. I know. We... [chuckling]
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That... You can't help yourself.
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Could you talk
with your hands in your pocket?
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I don't think I can. [laughs]
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That would, uh... [chuckles] ...mute me.
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[both chuckle]
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Hand gestures are, uh,
part of the... of the culture.
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There are more than
250 official Italian hand gestures.
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But I'll teach you, uh, a basic one.
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Let's say that you...
Someone that you don't know just comes up,
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- and you don't want to be bothered.
- Yeah.
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You can say... You would say,
"What do you want?
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What do you want?"
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- See with the...
- Ah!
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- Ah, yeah, yeah.
- What do you want?
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Yes, what do you want?
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- What... You can do...
- Yeah, what do you want?
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The attitude, you see?
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Hey, what, uh... Hey, what?
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You can be seen as aggressive
if you don't know who you're talking to.
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I wouldn't do that
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- to someone that I don't know, but...
- [Levy] No.
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- You never know.
- You never know.
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[both] You never know.
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[Levy] Even if I'm suddenly conscious
of everything I do with my hands,
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I'm ready for my tour.
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[Emiliano] You're in front of
one of the most beautiful cathedrals
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in Italy. It's Santa Maria del Fiore.
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Well, I-I was looking down at it
when we started our little trip.
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But you don't have any idea
of how massive this is.
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Think about it.
30,000 people can fit here.
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[Levy] Started in 1296,
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the cathedral took 140 years to build...
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- This is absolutely breathtaking.
- I-I know. I know. It's insane.
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...and right at the top
is a marvel of Renaissance engineering.
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[Emiliano] At the time,
it was challenging to build the duomo.
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It was incredible.
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Sixteen years... [chuckles]
...to build just the dome.
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Wow.
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Made of four million bricks,
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it is still the largest of its kind
in the world.
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I can only imagine
what the inside is like.
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[Emiliano] Do you want to line up
for the cathedral?
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[Levy] Uh, no. I don't do, uh, lineups.
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I just can't do it.
I'm not doing a big tour group.
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Not doing that... [mimicking tour guide]
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Just to be able to be here, look at it.
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There's me, and there's the duomo.
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That's it. I've seen it.
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Luckily, I'm with a guide who,
without all the fuss,
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can get me to the things
you really wanna see...
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- There it is.
- Yeah, it's incredible.
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It is incredible.
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...like Michelangelo's David.
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This is just so beautiful.
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- Is this the original David or...
- This is a copy.
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This is a perfect copy of the David.
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- Oh, it's a copy.
- Yes, yes, yes, yes.
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I imagine the lineups in the museum
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- to see the actual David.
- Yeah, exactly.
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Yeah. You have to buy the ticket,
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- plus the line, yeah...
- Right, lineups and lineups.
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Well, you could see...
You don't have to line up to see this.
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Okay, so this might be a replica,
but I've saved myself some time.
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And I've still seen a replica
of something world-famous.
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Thanks to the biblical story,
David is every bit the Jewish icon.
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Well, maybe not every bit.
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The only thing that struck me
was the genitalia.
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Huh.
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It kind of looks
like an uncircumcised penis,
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but David was Jewish.
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Proof that Michelangelo
never took any shortcuts.
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Look at me. I'm an art critic already.
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And I've only been here an hour.
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But for the full experience,
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Emiliano insists I need
my own version of Renaissance art.
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This is the home of artists
like Michelangelo, da Vinci,
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so, you know, you must have a taste of it.
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- Caricatures, you know? Uh...
- [Levy] Caricature.
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[Emiliano] Yes, yes.
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[Levy] It's a rite of passage
for any visitor to the city.
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Please.
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Boy, this could be awfully frightening.
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Big me... Give me big smile.
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Look this way, mister.
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[Levy]
Like it or not, this is my big smile.
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Don't work too fast now.
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[chuckles]
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[Levy] Emiliano assures me
caricatures have a noble history.
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[Emiliano] Even Leonardo da Vinci
used to make caricatures, you know?
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- Uh, da Vinci made caricatures?
- [Emiliano] Yeah, for fun.
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Well, I... Where is he now?
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[chuckles]
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[Levy] I can honestly say
I've never felt less like the Mona Lisa.
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- [artist] Okay.
- Uh-huh.
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- [artist] One, two...
- Oh, my God.
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- Yeah, hit me.
- [artist imitates fanfare]
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- Hit...
- [artist chuckles]
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Happy.
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[Levy] Well, now I have to smile more.
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[Emiliano chuckling] Right?
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[Levy] As I head off,
feeling literally as pretty as a picture,
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Emiliano has one last sight to show me.
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[Emiliano] Welcome to Ponte Vecchio,
the most famous bridge in the world.
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[Levy] The Ponte Vecchio is
Florence's oldest and most iconic bridge.
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Oh, my, my, my, my.
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This is really something.
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- This is stunning.
- [Emiliano chuckling] Yeah.
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- [Levy] Too bad there are no people.
- [Emiliano chuckles]
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[Levy] Don't get me wrong,
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this is a beautiful city
filled with art and history,
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but I kind of wish I could see it
at a slightly less hectic pace.
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I think, uh, a nice glass of wine,
it's like the cherry on the top.
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- Lovely.
- Yeah.
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- We like this.
- Oh.
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- Oh, my God. This is just beautiful.
- [Emiliano] Yeah.
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Just beautiful.
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- [Emiliano] Thank you. Grazie.
- Sir, here we go.
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Salu... Oh, one thing,
when you cheer in Italy...
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- Yeah.
- ...you must look the other people...
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the other person in the eyes.
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No, not the glass.
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Right in the eyes.
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[chuckles] No.
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Yes.
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- [Levy] All right.
- Yeah, like that.
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- Wow. Yum.
- That's a good wine.
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You are very lucky because this is...
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this is the best season to come to Italy,
because we are in the wine season.
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Do you want to experience
a real harvesting here in, uh, Tuscany?
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- Harvesting grapes.
- [Emiliano] Yes.
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We're gonna be doing that
when we're up there?
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[chuckles] Yes, let's do that.
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- I'll do it.
- Yes.
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You will have a very different experience
outside of town.
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It's very peaceful.
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That's where we can experience
that slow pace of life.
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Anything with a slow pace,
I'm in favor of.
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- Here's to Tuscany.
- Here to Tuscany.
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Feeling pretty exceptionally great.
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I think it's a good thing heading...
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heading to Tuscany
and, kind of, slowing down.
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Veering away from the tourist aspect
of being in Italy,
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almost feeling like you're... an Italian.
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It's good.
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It's... No.
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Well, remember this one is,
"What do you want?"
239
00:12:29,459 --> 00:12:32,337
- What do you want?
- Y-Yes, yes, exactly, exactly.
240
00:12:32,337 --> 00:12:34,631
- What do you wa... Yeah. [chuckles]
- What do you want?
241
00:12:34,631 --> 00:12:37,050
- [horn honking]
- [Levy] Sauro's here.
242
00:12:37,050 --> 00:12:38,802
[chuckles] I'll see you
in a couple of days.
243
00:12:38,802 --> 00:12:40,262
- In Tuscany?
- Yeah, at the winery.
244
00:12:40,262 --> 00:12:42,264
- Grazie.
- Yeah, ciao.
245
00:12:42,264 --> 00:12:44,015
[Sauro] Let's go to your hotel.
246
00:12:46,560 --> 00:12:49,062
[Levy] So it's ciao to Florence.
247
00:12:49,062 --> 00:12:54,484
Seeing the city with Emiliano has shown me
just how proud Italians are
248
00:12:54,484 --> 00:12:55,902
of their history and culture.
249
00:12:55,902 --> 00:12:59,698
As he said, it's part of who they are.
250
00:13:00,991 --> 00:13:03,994
But now I'm heading south
to the Orcia Valley,
251
00:13:03,994 --> 00:13:06,204
with its beautiful landscapes,
252
00:13:06,871 --> 00:13:09,916
medieval castles, ancient villages,
253
00:13:09,916 --> 00:13:12,836
and a delightful absence of crowds.
254
00:13:13,962 --> 00:13:16,798
You can't beat the Italian countryside.
255
00:13:18,091 --> 00:13:23,430
And I'm already experiencing that
slower pace of life Emiliano promised me.
256
00:13:24,097 --> 00:13:26,308
- We're heading uphill.
- [horn honking]
257
00:13:27,642 --> 00:13:28,643
Who's behind us?
258
00:13:29,227 --> 00:13:31,479
Somebody that wants to pass?
259
00:13:32,981 --> 00:13:34,608
[honking continues]
260
00:13:34,608 --> 00:13:36,693
Boy, it's his lucky day, huh?
261
00:13:37,277 --> 00:13:41,907
Apparently, somewhere
at the top of this hill is my hotel.
262
00:13:41,907 --> 00:13:43,533
I just need to find it.
263
00:13:44,200 --> 00:13:45,619
- [Sauro] Here we are.
- [Levy] Wow.
264
00:13:45,619 --> 00:13:47,329
- [Levy] Grazie. Prego.
- [Sauro] Grazie mille.
265
00:14:04,804 --> 00:14:07,766
Wondering and guessing, I guess,
266
00:14:07,766 --> 00:14:11,561
the hotel is somewhere in the village.
267
00:14:13,438 --> 00:14:14,856
Ciao, Eugene.
268
00:14:14,856 --> 00:14:16,566
Buongiorno.
269
00:14:17,275 --> 00:14:21,279
- Welcome, I'm Giancarla. How are you?
- Ah. I'm good. I'm good.
270
00:14:21,279 --> 00:14:23,156
- You made it.
- I did.
271
00:14:23,156 --> 00:14:25,659
It took about three
and a half weeks, uh, to get here.
272
00:14:25,659 --> 00:14:26,576
[chuckles]
273
00:14:26,576 --> 00:14:29,537
[Levy]
Giancarla has worked here for 12 years.
274
00:14:30,247 --> 00:14:33,500
So, what am I looking at here?
Is this the hotel?
275
00:14:34,251 --> 00:14:35,752
[Giancarla] This is part of the hotel.
276
00:14:35,752 --> 00:14:39,798
And you're looking at
a 12th-century hamlet
277
00:14:39,798 --> 00:14:42,008
that has been brought back to life.
278
00:14:42,008 --> 00:14:46,179
This is a living village.
We have about 11 inhabitants still.
279
00:14:46,179 --> 00:14:48,723
- There are still people living here?
- Yes.
280
00:14:49,641 --> 00:14:52,561
[Levy] Turns out the reason
I couldn't find the hotel
281
00:14:52,561 --> 00:14:55,355
is that the village is the hotel.
282
00:14:55,355 --> 00:14:59,901
Once upon a time, it was home to farmers
who worked the land below.
283
00:15:02,529 --> 00:15:05,699
But today, the hotel has been converted
284
00:15:05,699 --> 00:15:09,119
to blend seamlessly
with the original buildings.
285
00:15:10,870 --> 00:15:16,751
I wanted to take you over here to take
a look at the expanse of the Val d'Orcia.
286
00:15:16,751 --> 00:15:19,421
A place where architecture
and the landscape
287
00:15:19,421 --> 00:15:23,508
have lived in synergy
and harmony for centuries.
288
00:15:25,093 --> 00:15:26,511
Are you getting this?
289
00:15:26,511 --> 00:15:27,971
[Giancarla chuckles]
290
00:15:34,144 --> 00:15:35,896
[Levy] This is spectacular.
291
00:15:38,481 --> 00:15:40,609
[Giancarla] Well, welcome to your suite.
292
00:15:42,110 --> 00:15:43,528
[Levy] Not too shabby.
293
00:15:44,195 --> 00:15:47,365
[Giancarla] This is called
the Monte Cetona suite.
294
00:15:48,116 --> 00:15:50,118
It's one of the largest ones that we have.
295
00:15:50,118 --> 00:15:51,244
[Levy] I like it.
296
00:15:51,745 --> 00:15:52,746
[Giancarla chuckles]
297
00:15:52,746 --> 00:15:54,915
[Levy] This is really pretty.
298
00:15:54,915 --> 00:15:58,460
I love the simplicity
with a sense of history.
299
00:15:59,044 --> 00:16:00,712
I love the beams. I love the wood.
300
00:16:00,712 --> 00:16:02,923
I just love the rustic nature.
301
00:16:04,883 --> 00:16:06,009
Got the view.
302
00:16:10,972 --> 00:16:15,352
A boutique hotel
in a medieval hilltop village.
303
00:16:16,269 --> 00:16:18,980
This is like nothing else I've ever seen.
304
00:16:19,898 --> 00:16:25,904
It's the kind of place that makes
this traveler feel, well, less reluctant.
305
00:16:27,322 --> 00:16:30,408
I'm really happy to be here, okay?
306
00:16:30,408 --> 00:16:34,162
Love the pace, love the quiet.
307
00:16:35,413 --> 00:16:39,251
It's a different way to go here, you know?
308
00:16:39,251 --> 00:16:44,464
It just hits all the senses
in such a, uh, relaxing way.
309
00:16:44,464 --> 00:16:48,343
You just feel like you just wanna...
[breathes deeply] ...breathe out.
310
00:17:02,857 --> 00:17:07,320
I'm on my way to breakfast
in the square by the old village church.
311
00:17:07,821 --> 00:17:09,573
I had a spectacular night.
312
00:17:09,573 --> 00:17:11,241
Didn't hear a sound.
313
00:17:11,241 --> 00:17:15,704
Had the windows open,
soft breeze coming in, slept like a baby.
314
00:17:17,664 --> 00:17:19,416
- [waiter, indistinct]
- Ah.
315
00:17:19,416 --> 00:17:22,209
- [waiter] We have scrambled eggs.
- [Levy] Ooh.
316
00:17:22,835 --> 00:17:27,173
And I serve it extra summer truffle.
317
00:17:27,674 --> 00:17:31,219
If they wanna put truffles on my eggs,
you're not gonna hear a no from me.
318
00:17:31,219 --> 00:17:33,305
- Enjoy.
- [Levy] Yeah.
319
00:17:34,306 --> 00:17:38,810
Now this feels like
a step towards la dolce vita.
320
00:17:40,353 --> 00:17:41,479
Wow, that's good.
321
00:17:42,981 --> 00:17:44,274
Well, I was told
322
00:17:44,274 --> 00:17:48,069
that they're harvesting grapes
in the vineyards here in Tuscany,
323
00:17:48,069 --> 00:17:52,032
and I did say if they needed some help,
I would avail myself.
324
00:17:52,032 --> 00:17:56,786
But while I wait for Emiliano
to let me know when the grapes are ready,
325
00:17:56,786 --> 00:17:59,122
I've got some time to play with.
326
00:17:59,122 --> 00:18:02,167
Well, as much as I'd like
to be hanging around this hotel,
327
00:18:02,167 --> 00:18:03,710
which I could easily do,
328
00:18:03,710 --> 00:18:09,382
there is something pulling me toward
this gorgeous countryside here.
329
00:18:09,883 --> 00:18:11,551
So I may do a little exploring.
330
00:18:14,804 --> 00:18:20,393
You'll no doubt have realized by now
that I absolutely love Italian food,
331
00:18:20,393 --> 00:18:24,189
so the hotel has hooked me up
with the local producer
332
00:18:24,189 --> 00:18:27,692
responsible for the best thing
on my breakfast plate.
333
00:18:30,904 --> 00:18:34,491
I've never hunted for truffles.
I have no idea what that's about.
334
00:18:34,491 --> 00:18:37,077
I've, uh, hunted for good optical wear,
335
00:18:37,869 --> 00:18:40,789
but I wouldn't categorize
myself as being a hunter.
336
00:18:42,290 --> 00:18:43,875
I'm not fond of gathering either.
337
00:18:47,337 --> 00:18:48,463
Buongiorno.
338
00:18:48,463 --> 00:18:50,090
- Hello.
- Buongiorno.
339
00:18:50,090 --> 00:18:51,800
[local producer] Federico.
340
00:18:51,800 --> 00:18:53,760
- Federico.
- The... The owner.
341
00:18:53,760 --> 00:18:57,556
- And I'm Tania. Nice to meet you.
- [Levy] Tania. Oh, nice to meet you.
342
00:18:57,556 --> 00:18:59,599
[Levy] And who's this little guy?
343
00:18:59,599 --> 00:19:03,061
- [Tania] Our truffle hunter. [laughs]
- [Levy] Oh, my goodness.
344
00:19:03,061 --> 00:19:04,062
[Tania] Zara.
345
00:19:04,062 --> 00:19:07,065
- Zara, are we off truffle hunting?
- [Tania] Okay.
346
00:19:07,065 --> 00:19:08,483
- [speaks Italian] Come on.
- Yeah?
347
00:19:08,483 --> 00:19:09,401
[Levy] Here we go.
348
00:19:09,401 --> 00:19:13,488
Tania works with Federico
on his olive farm and vineyard,
349
00:19:13,488 --> 00:19:17,367
which just happens to be
in a prime location.
350
00:19:17,367 --> 00:19:21,329
[Tania]
We are in a very important area of Tuscany
351
00:19:21,329 --> 00:19:23,832
'cause inside that part of forest,
352
00:19:23,832 --> 00:19:29,504
there is the right climate
and the right soil to find the truffles.
353
00:19:29,504 --> 00:19:30,714
[Levy] Ah.
354
00:19:30,714 --> 00:19:34,009
So any truffles I find
I can keep, I guess.
355
00:19:34,009 --> 00:19:35,760
- Um, perhaps.
- Yeah?
356
00:19:35,760 --> 00:19:37,762
- Well, we'll discuss it, I guess.
- [chuckles] Perhaps.
357
00:19:38,346 --> 00:19:39,764
[Levy] Okay, here we go.
358
00:19:40,265 --> 00:19:42,309
Now this looks like truffle country.
359
00:19:43,226 --> 00:19:47,355
I actually have no idea
what truffle country should look like.
360
00:19:47,355 --> 00:19:50,233
Fortunately, Zara does.
361
00:19:50,233 --> 00:19:53,862
Turns out they grow
between the roots of these trees.
362
00:19:53,862 --> 00:19:55,488
Unleash the beast, huh?
363
00:19:56,573 --> 00:19:58,033
- That's it.
- [Federico whistles]
364
00:19:58,033 --> 00:20:00,243
Right, Zara. Come on, Zara.
365
00:20:01,036 --> 00:20:02,287
Truffle.
366
00:20:02,287 --> 00:20:05,957
[Levy] Zara. Come on, honey.
You're on the job.
367
00:20:06,458 --> 00:20:08,627
[Federico speaks Italian, clicking tongue]
368
00:20:08,627 --> 00:20:12,964
[Levy] Zara has 50 times
as many smell receptors as a human.
369
00:20:12,964 --> 00:20:18,178
So she can trace the truffle's unique
odor even below ground.
370
00:20:18,178 --> 00:20:21,181
How do we know when she's onto something?
371
00:20:21,181 --> 00:20:24,935
Oh, you see...
'Cause when she find a truffle,
372
00:20:24,935 --> 00:20:29,773
she's very excite,
a-and start to move the-the soil.
373
00:20:30,565 --> 00:20:32,150
[Federico whistles] Zara.
374
00:20:33,068 --> 00:20:35,403
Zara. [whistles]
375
00:20:35,403 --> 00:20:36,488
[Tania, indistinct]
376
00:20:36,488 --> 00:20:38,365
[Levy]
You think she's onto something up here?
377
00:20:38,990 --> 00:20:40,700
[Tania] Zara! [chuckles]
378
00:20:41,368 --> 00:20:43,453
- [exclaims] Thank you.
- [Levy] All right.
379
00:20:44,204 --> 00:20:45,872
[Tania] She find a truffle!
380
00:20:47,874 --> 00:20:50,210
- [Levy] No.
- [Zara pants]
381
00:20:50,210 --> 00:20:53,338
- [Levy] Dig, dig, dig. What do we got?
- [Tania] Where's the truffle, Zara?
382
00:20:53,338 --> 00:20:55,924
- [gasps] Wow!
- [Levy] Yeah? Oh, baby!
383
00:20:56,841 --> 00:20:59,052
[Tania] Good girl! [chuckles]
384
00:20:59,886 --> 00:21:01,429
Smell this truffle.
385
00:21:01,429 --> 00:21:05,267
You can... You can...
[stammers] ...smell the, um... the earth.
386
00:21:05,267 --> 00:21:07,269
- Yeah, I... Well, sure.
- Yeah. [sighs]
387
00:21:07,269 --> 00:21:09,604
[Levy] What would you sell a truffle for?
388
00:21:09,604 --> 00:21:14,985
- This is like gold.
- Uh, the price is about, uh, 60 euros.
389
00:21:14,985 --> 00:21:16,278
- Oh!
- Minimum.
390
00:21:16,278 --> 00:21:20,657
[Levy] That's a pretty good return
for a 20-minute stroll in the woods.
391
00:21:20,657 --> 00:21:22,367
We did good. We got a truffle.
392
00:21:22,367 --> 00:21:25,120
No more calls. We've got a truffle.
393
00:21:25,120 --> 00:21:26,997
Now, don't tell Tania,
394
00:21:26,997 --> 00:21:30,417
but I just might be shaving this
on some rigatoni.
395
00:21:31,877 --> 00:21:34,588
But food will have to wait for now...
396
00:21:36,631 --> 00:21:39,467
as I've still got more time for exploring.
397
00:21:40,260 --> 00:21:42,178
I'm heading to Sarteano,
398
00:21:43,847 --> 00:21:47,809
a 700-year-old town
down the hill from my hotel.
399
00:21:48,435 --> 00:21:52,898
The sweet life here, I'm told,
is all about finding your community.
400
00:21:53,607 --> 00:21:56,902
Going into the country
is always a bit of an adventure,
401
00:21:56,902 --> 00:22:00,530
so I'm hoping that this little jaunt
could be exciting.
402
00:22:04,117 --> 00:22:05,452
[horse neighs]
403
00:22:09,122 --> 00:22:11,791
[rhythmic drumming]
404
00:22:11,791 --> 00:22:15,795
[Levy] The locals are practicing
for an important annual event,
405
00:22:15,795 --> 00:22:17,839
the joust of the Saracens.
406
00:22:18,632 --> 00:22:22,385
And Giancarla has got me a backstage pass.
407
00:22:22,385 --> 00:22:25,931
Whoo! Good! Wow.
408
00:22:25,931 --> 00:22:28,183
- How about that?
- [Giancarla] This is Stefania.
409
00:22:28,183 --> 00:22:29,893
- I wanted to introduce you.
- [Levy] Stefania.
410
00:22:29,893 --> 00:22:32,354
- Hello. Nice to meet you.
- Ah, nice to meet you.
411
00:22:32,354 --> 00:22:38,610
This is a practice, uh, that our guys
of the joust of the Saracen are doing.
412
00:22:38,610 --> 00:22:39,527
Aha.
413
00:22:41,154 --> 00:22:44,824
[Levy] These drums and flags
are the warm-up act for the main event,
414
00:22:44,824 --> 00:22:47,535
a jousting contest which takes place
415
00:22:47,535 --> 00:22:51,039
between Sarteano's
five traditional districts
416
00:22:51,039 --> 00:22:52,540
called contrada.
417
00:22:53,750 --> 00:22:57,546
So, every contrada has their own flag?
418
00:22:57,546 --> 00:23:02,133
Yes. Each contrada has
two medieval drummers, two flag wavers.
419
00:23:02,133 --> 00:23:04,177
How many practices do you have?
420
00:23:04,177 --> 00:23:06,888
- Many times... [laughs] ...in the year, yes.
- [Levy] Yeah?
421
00:23:06,888 --> 00:23:08,014
All year long.
422
00:23:08,014 --> 00:23:09,724
- Okay. All right.
- Yes.
423
00:23:09,724 --> 00:23:15,438
If you want,
our guys can show you how to throw a flag.
424
00:23:15,438 --> 00:23:17,941
Well, who hasn't dreamt
about throwing flags?
425
00:23:17,941 --> 00:23:18,942
Okay.
426
00:23:21,736 --> 00:23:23,029
- Okay, so...
- [Levy] Yeah.
427
00:23:23,029 --> 00:23:26,116
[stammers] You follow me in this way.
428
00:23:26,116 --> 00:23:27,617
I do this.
429
00:23:28,159 --> 00:23:29,869
- [Levy] Like...
- [flag thrower speaks Italian]
430
00:23:31,621 --> 00:23:32,455
[Levy] And...
431
00:23:33,248 --> 00:23:34,791
- [Stefania exclaiming]
- [speaks Italian]
432
00:23:34,791 --> 00:23:35,875
[Stefania laughs]
433
00:23:35,875 --> 00:23:38,295
[Levy]
This could be my last flag-tossing event.
434
00:23:38,295 --> 00:23:40,630
This is not what you want
on your tombstone.
435
00:23:41,256 --> 00:23:44,509
You know... [stammers]
...took a flag in the skull.
436
00:23:44,509 --> 00:23:47,596
- This, and...
- Go.
437
00:23:48,346 --> 00:23:52,017
[Levy] Incredibly,
this skill dates from medieval times,
438
00:23:52,017 --> 00:23:54,811
when it was part of military parades.
439
00:23:54,811 --> 00:23:55,896
One more.
440
00:23:56,479 --> 00:23:58,440
And here I am learning it.
441
00:23:58,440 --> 00:24:01,610
- Like this?
- Yeah. Yeah.
442
00:24:01,610 --> 00:24:03,778
[Levy] Well, kind of learning it.
443
00:24:03,778 --> 00:24:05,530
Three, and...
444
00:24:07,866 --> 00:24:10,160
[Giancarla, Stefania] Yay!
445
00:24:10,160 --> 00:24:12,370
- [Levy] Please, be seated.
- [crowd chuckling]
446
00:24:17,292 --> 00:24:19,502
[Levy]
But for the next part of the practice...
447
00:24:22,172 --> 00:24:24,758
I'm sticking safely to the sidelines.
448
00:24:28,136 --> 00:24:30,013
[Stefania] It is a medieval joust.
449
00:24:30,013 --> 00:24:34,768
It became a tournament in the...
[stammers] ...14th century, more or less.
450
00:24:34,768 --> 00:24:36,269
- Fourteenth century?
- [Stefania] Yes.
451
00:24:36,269 --> 00:24:37,187
- Okay.
- [Stefania] Uh...
452
00:24:37,187 --> 00:24:39,105
[bell tolls]
453
00:24:39,105 --> 00:24:41,316
The inaugural procession
is gonna start right now
454
00:24:41,316 --> 00:24:43,735
with the drummers and the flag throwers.
455
00:24:45,987 --> 00:24:47,697
[Levy] The joust echoes a time
456
00:24:47,697 --> 00:24:49,282
when knights on horseback
457
00:24:49,282 --> 00:24:51,284
- would clash violently...
- [horse neighs]
458
00:24:51,284 --> 00:24:56,790
...but today, the opponent has been
replaced by a tiny ring for a target.
459
00:24:59,167 --> 00:25:00,794
[bell tolls]
460
00:25:05,799 --> 00:25:08,426
[applause]
461
00:25:08,426 --> 00:25:10,220
That's a small ring.
462
00:25:11,304 --> 00:25:15,850
It's a very small ring,
and the lance is two meters and 80.
463
00:25:16,434 --> 00:25:19,980
So, long lance, small ring.
464
00:25:19,980 --> 00:25:24,025
[Levy]
It seems like an impossible task, until...
465
00:25:24,734 --> 00:25:26,861
[cheering]
466
00:25:26,861 --> 00:25:29,447
- Wow. He's good.
- [Stefania] Yes.
467
00:25:29,447 --> 00:25:31,783
- [Levy] Bravo.
- [cheering continues]
468
00:25:34,327 --> 00:25:37,622
[Levy] Now, if I'd stuck
to my old traveling habits,
469
00:25:37,622 --> 00:25:40,542
I wouldn't have seen Tuscany
in quite the same way.
470
00:25:40,542 --> 00:25:43,545
At the end of the day,
I'm always glad I venture out,
471
00:25:43,545 --> 00:25:46,548
you know, and-and try
and experience, uh, things.
472
00:25:46,548 --> 00:25:48,174
It's kind of rewarding.
473
00:25:48,174 --> 00:25:49,759
[speaks Italian]
474
00:25:50,260 --> 00:25:53,221
And I've found that, as well as the food,
475
00:25:53,221 --> 00:25:55,557
I also love the sense of community.
476
00:25:55,557 --> 00:25:59,644
Both are as important to me
as they are to Italians.
477
00:26:00,186 --> 00:26:01,771
There is a warmth about it.
478
00:26:01,771 --> 00:26:05,525
There is a kind of a lovely, familial,
communal feeling.
479
00:26:06,109 --> 00:26:07,819
Whoa!
480
00:26:07,819 --> 00:26:12,574
I didn't necessarily feel
too much like a tourist, uh, today.
481
00:26:12,574 --> 00:26:15,076
I felt like a citizen of Tuscany.
482
00:26:15,076 --> 00:26:18,038
It was... [stammers] ...nice to kind of feel
like you're, uh... you're a part of it.
483
00:26:18,038 --> 00:26:19,623
[cheering, applause]
484
00:26:28,423 --> 00:26:30,217
[Levy] Grazie.
485
00:26:30,217 --> 00:26:32,469
Prego. I will let you
enjoy your cappuccino.
486
00:26:33,178 --> 00:26:34,554
[Levy] Don't mind if I do.
487
00:26:36,473 --> 00:26:38,642
This is how you wanna start a day.
488
00:26:39,517 --> 00:26:42,562
Italy comes as close
to my own pace of life
489
00:26:43,438 --> 00:26:46,233
as just about any country
that I've been in.
490
00:26:49,361 --> 00:26:51,655
It's my final day in Italy,
491
00:26:51,655 --> 00:26:55,325
and Emiliano has asked me
to meet him at the vineyard,
492
00:26:55,325 --> 00:26:57,911
hopefully to begin the wine harvest.
493
00:26:58,620 --> 00:27:00,330
I think getting in and helping out,
494
00:27:00,330 --> 00:27:02,999
getting some grapes,
putting them in a basket is, uh,
495
00:27:02,999 --> 00:27:05,210
kind of a f-fun thing to do,
496
00:27:05,210 --> 00:27:07,546
but nature... [stammers] ...sets the course
497
00:27:07,546 --> 00:27:10,423
for when things are ready to be harvested.
498
00:27:12,801 --> 00:27:13,802
Emiliano!
499
00:27:13,802 --> 00:27:16,513
- Hey, Eugene! [chuckles]
- [Levy] Come stai.
500
00:27:16,513 --> 00:27:19,266
- Matteo. Nice to meet you.
- [Levy] Matteo.
501
00:27:19,266 --> 00:27:20,600
How do you know each other?
502
00:27:20,600 --> 00:27:24,437
We met, uh,
22 years ago in elementary school,
503
00:27:24,437 --> 00:27:27,148
and, uh, we have been
growing up together like brothers.
504
00:27:27,148 --> 00:27:28,233
[Levy] Wow.
505
00:27:29,276 --> 00:27:32,988
[Levy] Italy is one of
the world's largest wine producers,
506
00:27:32,988 --> 00:27:36,199
and traditionally,
when the grapes are ready,
507
00:27:36,199 --> 00:27:41,037
the whole community joins
in la vendemmia, or, the wine harvest.
508
00:27:41,037 --> 00:27:44,499
Around this time of the year, you know,
you receive a call from your nonno,
509
00:27:44,499 --> 00:27:45,417
your grandfather.
510
00:27:45,417 --> 00:27:47,711
"What do you do this weekend?"
"I don't know."
511
00:27:47,711 --> 00:27:50,505
"You come with me.
We go harvest the wine."
512
00:27:50,505 --> 00:27:51,965
- It's fun. You're gonna love it.
- Okay.
513
00:27:51,965 --> 00:27:53,508
- You're gonna love it.
- All right. This is good.
514
00:27:53,508 --> 00:27:55,135
- [Emiliano] You wanna go?
- Yeah, let's do it.
515
00:27:55,135 --> 00:27:56,094
[Emiliano] Let's do it.
516
00:27:58,722 --> 00:27:59,848
- Buongiorno.
- [Levy] Hey.
517
00:27:59,848 --> 00:28:01,391
- What's your name?
- Enea.
518
00:28:01,391 --> 00:28:03,476
- I am the manager here.
- Eugene.
519
00:28:03,476 --> 00:28:05,604
- Nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet you.
520
00:28:07,022 --> 00:28:08,857
- So we're off to the vineyard?
- Yep.
521
00:28:08,857 --> 00:28:12,819
We going to see which area
is more suitable to be harvested.
522
00:28:12,819 --> 00:28:17,532
Why would some vineyards be ready
for harvesting and others not ready?
523
00:28:17,532 --> 00:28:20,285
[Enea] Because we have
four kind of red grapes,
524
00:28:20,285 --> 00:28:22,871
and every one have
a different ripeness time.
525
00:28:25,916 --> 00:28:27,292
This is the merlot area.
526
00:28:27,292 --> 00:28:29,211
We going to start trying first this one.
527
00:28:30,670 --> 00:28:33,256
First, we try it.
What do you feel when you try it?
528
00:28:38,011 --> 00:28:39,012
Tastes like a grape.
529
00:28:40,096 --> 00:28:41,556
[laughs] Okay.
530
00:28:41,556 --> 00:28:43,683
The flavor... [smacks lips] ...is more full.
531
00:28:43,683 --> 00:28:45,936
You feel more also
at the back of the tongue.
532
00:28:45,936 --> 00:28:49,940
This is a signal that say
that merlot area is ready.
533
00:28:49,940 --> 00:28:51,900
[Levy] So, how quickly
do you have to harvest them?
534
00:28:51,900 --> 00:28:54,194
When we, uh,
reach the right ripeness time,
535
00:28:54,194 --> 00:28:56,529
we have to proceed almost immediately
536
00:28:56,529 --> 00:28:59,199
because if you wait
maybe for one day more,
537
00:28:59,199 --> 00:29:00,742
it's going to be too late.
538
00:29:00,742 --> 00:29:02,077
- One day more?
- Yep.
539
00:29:02,077 --> 00:29:04,287
If you wait a day, it's too later.
540
00:29:04,287 --> 00:29:06,039
What if you sleep in?
Like, if you sleep in?
541
00:29:06,039 --> 00:29:07,958
- You don't get up on time?
- No, we don't.
542
00:29:07,958 --> 00:29:08,875
Wow.
543
00:29:08,875 --> 00:29:11,253
- I don't wanna wait already.
- No. There's no...
544
00:29:11,253 --> 00:29:13,880
- No... Let's g... You're taking your time.
- Mmm. [laughs]
545
00:29:13,880 --> 00:29:15,298
You've gotta go.
546
00:29:15,298 --> 00:29:18,301
[whistles] Grapes are ready.
547
00:29:18,301 --> 00:29:19,970
All right. Let's go.
548
00:29:19,970 --> 00:29:24,766
Emiliano, Matteo,
and I have our own row to harvest.
549
00:29:25,600 --> 00:29:28,270
- I see. And I see this one here.
- [Enea] This one is easier.
550
00:29:28,270 --> 00:29:29,604
[Levy] All right, that's good.
551
00:29:29,604 --> 00:29:32,357
Piece of cake, so far.
552
00:29:32,941 --> 00:29:34,401
And we got a little one here.
553
00:29:35,026 --> 00:29:37,112
- That's done.
- Okay.
554
00:29:38,154 --> 00:29:40,657
[Levy] Okay, all right. I've...
I've got the hang of this now.
555
00:29:41,616 --> 00:29:42,867
[Emiliano] How is it going there?
556
00:29:45,120 --> 00:29:49,541
I would actually suggest
hiring very short people, you know?
557
00:29:49,541 --> 00:29:50,458
That's a good point.
558
00:29:50,458 --> 00:29:53,169
Because this is, like... this is...
[stammers] It's, like, backbreaking.
559
00:29:54,004 --> 00:29:57,090
Huh? Look at this. Now I'm moving along.
560
00:29:57,090 --> 00:29:59,759
Uh, beep-beep.
561
00:29:59,759 --> 00:30:00,719
[laughing] Oh.
562
00:30:00,719 --> 00:30:02,470
[Levy] If you... If you guys can't keep up...
563
00:30:02,470 --> 00:30:05,015
- [Enea laughs] They are too slow.
- Well, they are too slow.
564
00:30:05,015 --> 00:30:09,227
And if I... [stammers] I-If this was my
vineyard, they'd be go... they'd be gone.
565
00:30:09,227 --> 00:30:10,395
[chuckles]
566
00:30:10,395 --> 00:30:11,479
[Emiliano] They'd be fired.
567
00:30:11,479 --> 00:30:13,148
[Levy] They did this when they were kids.
568
00:30:13,148 --> 00:30:14,149
Right?
569
00:30:14,149 --> 00:30:18,069
And you can tell just, like,
how they were probably just goofing off
570
00:30:18,069 --> 00:30:21,364
when they were kids, and it looks like
they're working the same way.
571
00:30:23,158 --> 00:30:26,036
You guys are ridiculously bad
at this right now.
572
00:30:26,036 --> 00:30:27,621
Do I sound like your nonna?
573
00:30:27,621 --> 00:30:29,664
- [Emiliano, Matteo laughing]
- Huh?
574
00:30:29,664 --> 00:30:32,125
Well, that's a sad fact of life. I am.
575
00:30:32,125 --> 00:30:35,128
You see, this is also
part of the vendemmia.
576
00:30:35,128 --> 00:30:37,881
Enjoying the time with people around you.
577
00:30:37,881 --> 00:30:39,466
With your family, with your friends.
578
00:30:39,466 --> 00:30:41,259
So... So this is also the beauty of it.
579
00:30:41,259 --> 00:30:43,970
- Well, it... that's the way it should be.
- [Matteo] Exactly.
580
00:30:49,309 --> 00:30:51,519
- [Levy] I mean, this...
- [Matteo] Yeah.
581
00:30:52,479 --> 00:30:54,564
...is absolutely stunning, isn't it?
582
00:31:01,404 --> 00:31:04,449
How many tourists get a chance to do this?
583
00:31:06,701 --> 00:31:09,788
[Emiliano] Do you feel connected
to the grape, to the soil?
584
00:31:10,580 --> 00:31:14,000
I feel more connected to
my chiropractor right now.
585
00:31:14,000 --> 00:31:15,460
[chuckles]
586
00:31:15,460 --> 00:31:17,629
Eugene, guys. Come over.
587
00:31:17,629 --> 00:31:19,714
- [Emiliano] Let's go.
- [Levy] Good. Thank you, Matteo.
588
00:31:19,714 --> 00:31:20,757
[Matteo] You're welcome.
589
00:31:20,757 --> 00:31:24,302
- [Enea] Quality is fine. Quality is good.
- [vigneron] Yeah, very good job.
590
00:31:24,302 --> 00:31:25,637
We can definitely use it.
591
00:31:28,765 --> 00:31:31,893
Now we load it back on
the back of the pickup truck.
592
00:31:32,394 --> 00:31:34,938
[Levy] Our grapes are on their way
back to the winery,
593
00:31:34,938 --> 00:31:37,774
where they'll be added
to the rest of the harvest,
594
00:31:37,774 --> 00:31:42,529
crushed, then fermented,
and finally aged in barrels.
595
00:31:43,196 --> 00:31:46,741
It's a great excuse to come back
for my bottle when it's done.
596
00:31:46,741 --> 00:31:49,035
Like I need an excuse.
597
00:31:49,035 --> 00:31:54,541
Back at the kitchen,
our reward for a job well done, lunch.
598
00:31:54,541 --> 00:31:58,128
This is gonna be some... some party,
and well deserved.
599
00:31:58,128 --> 00:32:04,384
Along with some incredible Italian food.
600
00:32:04,885 --> 00:32:05,802
Okay.
601
00:32:05,802 --> 00:32:08,513
I call it Italian food. They call it food.
602
00:32:09,723 --> 00:32:14,895
And I'm pleased to say
that I brought my own humble contribution.
603
00:32:14,895 --> 00:32:16,396
[Emiliano] Oh, wow.
604
00:32:16,396 --> 00:32:19,024
- [speaks Italian]
- [cook, indistinct]
605
00:32:19,024 --> 00:32:21,109
[Levy] Oh, wow. Wow.
606
00:32:21,109 --> 00:32:25,697
The truffles in here,
that's what I dug out of the ground, okay?
607
00:32:25,697 --> 00:32:28,700
With the help of a cute little dog.
608
00:32:28,700 --> 00:32:30,619
[all laughing]
609
00:32:30,619 --> 00:32:34,205
And who's the young lady
that... that prepared the pasta?
610
00:32:34,205 --> 00:32:37,542
Patrizia. She cook also for us
here every day...
611
00:32:37,542 --> 00:32:39,127
- [Levy] Every day?
- ...for our lunch. Yes.
612
00:32:39,127 --> 00:32:41,630
Emiliano, you're very, very good at this.
613
00:32:41,630 --> 00:32:44,049
- You're good at this.
- Thank you. I have my own technique.
614
00:32:44,049 --> 00:32:47,385
{\an8}Did you... Did you work as a w...
as a waiter when you were a kid as well?
615
00:32:47,385 --> 00:32:50,347
{\an8}No, never. But, uh,
my mom taught me, I guess.
616
00:32:50,347 --> 00:32:51,598
- [Levy] All right.
- [laughs]
617
00:32:53,350 --> 00:32:56,144
[Levy] I knew I loved Italy,
but before this trip,
618
00:32:56,144 --> 00:32:58,730
I couldn't quite put my finger on why.
619
00:32:59,439 --> 00:33:01,483
Now, I get it.
620
00:33:01,983 --> 00:33:05,278
Look at this. This is, uh...
This is Italy to me.
621
00:33:07,280 --> 00:33:11,117
It's a way of living.
622
00:33:12,035 --> 00:33:13,495
It's community.
623
00:33:14,829 --> 00:33:16,248
It's food.
624
00:33:16,831 --> 00:33:18,124
It's wine.
625
00:33:18,959 --> 00:33:21,628
But it's more than that.
626
00:33:21,628 --> 00:33:27,759
It's taking the time
to appreciate all those things.
627
00:33:27,759 --> 00:33:32,764
An appreciation made possible
by a slower pace of life.
628
00:33:33,306 --> 00:33:35,475
Patrizia, delizioso.
629
00:33:35,475 --> 00:33:37,143
- To you.
- [Patrizia] Salute.
630
00:33:37,143 --> 00:33:38,311
Salute.
631
00:33:38,311 --> 00:33:43,733
That is la dolce vita to me.
That is the sweet life.
632
00:33:43,733 --> 00:33:47,654
And it's as close to, you know,
633
00:33:47,654 --> 00:33:51,283
my own priorities in life as you can get.
634
00:33:52,158 --> 00:33:54,369
So arrivederci, Italy.
635
00:33:55,120 --> 00:33:58,123
My next stop has a lot to live up to.
636
00:33:59,457 --> 00:34:00,542
[Levy] Next time...
637
00:34:00,542 --> 00:34:02,460
First time in Greece...
638
00:34:02,460 --> 00:34:03,503
[Greek host] This is your villa.
639
00:34:03,503 --> 00:34:05,005
[Levy] This is beautiful.
640
00:34:05,005 --> 00:34:06,339
Oh, yeah. That's good.
641
00:34:06,339 --> 00:34:08,925
And already I'm feeling philosophical.
642
00:34:08,925 --> 00:34:10,844
I think I've just found a new vocation.
643
00:34:10,844 --> 00:34:12,095
- Bravo!
- Whoo!
644
00:34:12,095 --> 00:34:13,137
An octopus!
645
00:34:13,137 --> 00:34:14,306
Yeah, no.
646
00:34:14,306 --> 00:34:16,892
I can't eat octopus.
I know what they look like.
647
00:34:16,892 --> 00:34:18,393
- [cheering]
- [plate shatters]
648
00:34:18,393 --> 00:34:19,811
[crowd member] Bravo, Eugene!