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They say to travel is to live.
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Well, maybe, if a day at the airport
doesn't suck the life out of you first.
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I mean, where else would you be told
to arrive two hours early...
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only to become dangerously close
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to being two hours late?
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Still, I think my travels last year
were good for me.
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They seemed to broaden my outlook.
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To a degree.
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So now, I'm taking on
what is apparently a must-do
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for any respectable traveler.
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I'm doing Europe.
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All right. Where are we, exactly?
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I'm going all continental...
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from the very top to the very bottom.
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I'm heading off the beaten track
to discover some real hidden gems...
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Are you getting this?
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...and embrace
this budding spirit for adventure.
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Look at me. No hands.
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They're right here. What is this, the bow?
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I'll be educating my taste buds...
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Wow, that was so good.
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Grapes are ready.
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...and trying to live like a local.
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Welcome to my village.
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This is insane.
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I just saved your life. Remember me.
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I'm packing any worries in my luggage...
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Here they come.
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You never know what the body's gonna do
when it's in abject terror.
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I don't think I've done anything
quite like this since I was a kid.
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...and I'm about to utter three words
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I've never said before.
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Ready for takeoff.
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Okay, let's be honest.
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You would never come to me for
travel advice, and I don't blame you.
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But if you did, I would say
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this is hands down my favorite
country to visit in the world.
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My love for Italy was sparked
by visits to Rome and Venice.
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Now, I'm back to discover
what it is about this place
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that always leaves me wanting more.
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The Italians talk about la dolce vita,
the sweet life.
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Well, my life's been pretty good so far,
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but who wouldn't want
a bit of a sugar rush every now and then?
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But how do they achieve that life?
What's their secret?
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I'm hoping Florence and the rest
of Tuscany might hold the answer.
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- My name is Sauro.
- Eugene.
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Okay, nice to meet you. Here you are.
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Grazie mille.
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I've just used up all my Italian.
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In Germany, I drank wheatgrass
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and chewed broth.
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So now I'm ready for a spot of indulgence.
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And where better to look
than in beautiful Tuscany?
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Starting in Florence,
the region's capital.
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The home of the Renaissance.
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It's really a stunning view
from up here, Sauro.
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Yeah, it's a perfect view.
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A city stuffed with art, culture, and...
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Oh, trash.
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- Yeah, I think so.
- Not exactly what I had in mind.
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I can see garbage trucks back home.
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There's a reason
they might need a lot of garbage trucks...
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Oh, boy.
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...a lot of tourists.
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Florence draws 16 million each year.
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A lot of people wanna see Florence.
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Uh-huh.
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I'm not proud of it.
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But if you think I'm a bad traveler,
then I'm a terrible tourist.
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There's too many people.
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But if I'm gonna see Florence properly...
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Wow.
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...I'll need to learn a vital skill,
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the ancient art of sightseeing.
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Hi, welcome to Italy, Eugene.
Such a pleasure to meet you.
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- Buongiorno.
- Buongiorno.
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Good to see you.
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Welcome to Italy, and welcome to Florence.
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Let's go around, and I'll show you around.
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Yeah, sure.
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As a guide, Emiliano is passionate about
Italian history,
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culture, and Florence itself.
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Every Italian is connected to Florence.
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Our language itself is from Florence.
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It's part of ourselves, to be honest.
It's difficult to put it into words.
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- I can tell you're Italian.
- Yeah. I know. We--
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That-- You can't help yourself.
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Could you talk
with your hands in your pocket?
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I don't think I can.
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That would mute me.
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Hand gestures are part of the culture.
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There are more than
250 official Italian hand gestures.
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But I'll teach you a basic one.
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Let's say that you--
Someone that you don't know just comes up,
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- and you don't want to be bothered.
- Yeah.
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You can say-- You would say,
"What do you want?
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What do you want?" See with the--
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- Yeah.
- What do you want?
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Yes, what do you want?
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- What-- You can do--
- Yeah, what do you want?
101
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The attitude, you see?
102
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Hey, what-- Hey, what?
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You can be seen as aggressive
if you don't know who you're talking to.
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I wouldn't do that
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- to someone that I don't know, but--
- No.
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- You never know.
- You never know.
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You never know.
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Even if I'm suddenly conscious
of everything I do with my hands,
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I'm ready for my tour.
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You're in front of
one of the most beautiful cathedrals
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in Italy. It's Santa Maria del Fiore.
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Well, I was looking down at it
when we started our little trip.
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But you don't have any idea
of how massive this is.
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Think about it.
30,000 people can fit here.
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Started in 1296,
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the cathedral took 140 years to build...
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- This is absolutely breathtaking.
- I know. It's insane.
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...and right at the top
is a marvel of Renaissance engineering.
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At the time,
it was challenging to build the duomo.
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It was incredible.
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Sixteen years to build just the dome.
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Wow.
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Made of four million bricks,
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it is still the largest of its kind
in the world.
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I can only imagine
what the inside is like.
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Do you want to line up for the cathedral?
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No. I don't do lineups.
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I just can't do it.
I'm not doing a big tour group.
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Not doing that...
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Just to be able to be here, look at it.
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There's me, and there's the duomo.
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That's it. I've seen it.
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Luckily, I'm with a guide who,
without all the fuss,
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can get me to the things
you really wanna see...
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- There it is.
- Yeah, it's incredible.
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It is incredible.
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...like Michelangelo's David.
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This is just so beautiful.
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- Is this the original David or--
- This is a copy.
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This is a perfect copy of the David.
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- It's a copy.
- Yes, yes.
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I imagine the lineups in the museum
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- to see the actual David.
- Yeah, exactly.
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Yeah. You have to buy the ticket,
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- plus the line, yeah...
- Right, lineups and lineups.
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Well, you could see--
You don't have to line up to see this.
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Okay, so this might be a replica,
but I've saved myself some time.
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And I've still seen a replica
of something world-famous.
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Thanks to the biblical story,
David is every bit the Jewish icon.
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Well, maybe not every bit.
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The only thing that struck me
was the genitalia.
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It kind of looks
like an uncircumcised penis,
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but David was Jewish.
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Proof that Michelangelo
never took any shortcuts.
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Look at me. I'm an art critic already.
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And I've only been here an hour.
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But for the full experience,
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Emiliano insists I need
my own version of Renaissance art.
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This is the home of artists
like Michelangelo, da Vinci,
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so, you know, you must have a taste of it.
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- Caricatures, you know?
- Caricature.
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Yes.
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It's a rite of passage
for any visitor to the city.
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Please.
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Boy, this could be awfully frightening.
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Big me-- Give me big smile.
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Look this way, mister.
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Like it or not, this is my big smile.
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Don't work too fast now.
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Emiliano assures me
caricatures have a noble history.
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Even Leonardo da Vinci
used to make caricatures, you know?
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- Da Vinci made caricatures?
- Yeah, for fun.
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Well, I-- Where is he now?
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I can honestly say
I've never felt less like the Mona Lisa.
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- Okay.
- Uh-huh.
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- One, two--
- Oh, my God.
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Yeah, hit me.
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Hit--
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Happy.
180
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Well, now I have to smile more.
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Right?
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As I head off,
feeling literally as pretty as a picture,
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Emiliano has one last sight to show me.
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Welcome to Ponte Vecchio,
the most famous bridge in the world.
185
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The Ponte Vecchio is
Florence's oldest and most iconic bridge.
186
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Oh, my, my, my, my.
187
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This is really something.
188
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- This is stunning.
- Yeah.
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Too bad there are no people.
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Don't get me wrong,
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this is a beautiful city
filled with art and history,
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but I kind of wish I could see it
at a slightly less hectic pace.
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I think a nice glass of wine,
it's like the cherry on the top.
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- Lovely.
- Yeah.
195
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We like this.
196
00:11:00,118 --> 00:11:02,120
- Oh, my God. This is just beautiful.
- Yeah.
197
00:11:02,120 --> 00:11:03,038
Just beautiful.
198
00:11:03,038 --> 00:11:05,249
- Thank you. Grazie.
- Sir, here we go.
199
00:11:05,249 --> 00:11:08,710
Salu-- One thing, when you cheer in Italy...
200
00:11:08,710 --> 00:11:10,963
- Yeah.
- ...you must look the other people--
201
00:11:10,963 --> 00:11:12,464
the other person in the eyes.
202
00:11:14,466 --> 00:11:15,509
No, not the glass.
203
00:11:16,009 --> 00:11:17,386
Right in the eyes.
204
00:11:19,179 --> 00:11:20,347
No.
205
00:11:21,974 --> 00:11:22,808
Yes.
206
00:11:23,433 --> 00:11:25,143
- All right.
- Yeah, like that.
207
00:11:27,938 --> 00:11:31,650
- Wow. Yum.
- That's a good wine.
208
00:11:31,650 --> 00:11:33,026
You are very lucky because this is--
209
00:11:33,026 --> 00:11:37,614
this is the best season to come to Italy,
because we are in the wine season.
210
00:11:37,614 --> 00:11:41,326
Do you want to experience
a real harvesting here in Tuscany?
211
00:11:41,326 --> 00:11:42,995
- Harvesting grapes.
- Yes.
212
00:11:42,995 --> 00:11:45,038
We're gonna be doing that
when we're up there?
213
00:11:45,038 --> 00:11:46,498
Yes, let's do that.
214
00:11:46,498 --> 00:11:47,499
- I'll do it.
- Yes.
215
00:11:47,499 --> 00:11:50,794
You will have a very different experience
outside of town.
216
00:11:50,794 --> 00:11:51,837
It's very peaceful.
217
00:11:51,837 --> 00:11:55,507
That's where we can experience
that slow pace of life.
218
00:11:55,507 --> 00:12:00,220
Anything with a slow pace,
I'm in favor of.
219
00:12:00,804 --> 00:12:02,973
- Here's to Tuscany.
- Here to Tuscany.
220
00:12:02,973 --> 00:12:04,892
Feeling pretty exceptionally great.
221
00:12:04,892 --> 00:12:06,393
I think it's a good thing heading--
222
00:12:06,393 --> 00:12:08,645
heading to Tuscany
and, kind of, slowing down.
223
00:12:09,438 --> 00:12:13,859
Veering away from the tourist aspect
of being in Italy,
224
00:12:14,359 --> 00:12:18,614
almost feeling like you're... an Italian.
225
00:12:23,994 --> 00:12:25,662
It's good.
226
00:12:25,662 --> 00:12:27,122
It's-- No.
227
00:12:27,122 --> 00:12:29,416
Well, remember this one is,
"What do you want?"
228
00:12:29,416 --> 00:12:32,377
- What do you want?
- Yes, exactly. What do you wa--
229
00:12:32,377 --> 00:12:33,545
- What do you want?
- Yeah.
230
00:12:35,589 --> 00:12:37,007
Sauro's here.
231
00:12:37,591 --> 00:12:38,759
I'll see you in a couple of days.
232
00:12:38,759 --> 00:12:40,219
- In Tuscany?
- Yeah, at the winery.
233
00:12:40,219 --> 00:12:42,221
- Grazie.
- Yeah, ciao.
234
00:12:42,221 --> 00:12:43,972
Let's go to your hotel.
235
00:12:46,517 --> 00:12:49,019
So it's ciao to Florence.
236
00:12:49,019 --> 00:12:54,441
Seeing the city with Emiliano has shown me
just how proud Italians are
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00:12:54,441 --> 00:12:55,859
of their history and culture.
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00:12:55,859 --> 00:12:59,655
As he said, it's part of who they are.
239
00:13:00,948 --> 00:13:03,951
But now I'm heading south
to the Orcia Valley,
240
00:13:03,951 --> 00:13:06,161
with its beautiful landscapes,
241
00:13:06,828 --> 00:13:09,873
medieval castles, ancient villages,
242
00:13:09,873 --> 00:13:12,793
and a delightful absence of crowds.
243
00:13:13,919 --> 00:13:16,755
You can't beat the Italian countryside.
244
00:13:18,048 --> 00:13:23,387
And I'm already experiencing that
slower pace of life Emiliano promised me.
245
00:13:24,054 --> 00:13:25,222
We're heading uphill.
246
00:13:27,599 --> 00:13:28,600
Who's behind us?
247
00:13:29,184 --> 00:13:31,436
Somebody that wants to pass?
248
00:13:34,648 --> 00:13:36,650
Boy, it's his lucky day, huh?
249
00:13:37,234 --> 00:13:41,864
Apparently, somewhere
at the top of this hill is my hotel.
250
00:13:41,864 --> 00:13:43,490
I just need to find it.
251
00:13:44,157 --> 00:13:45,576
- Here we are.
- Wow.
252
00:13:45,576 --> 00:13:47,286
- Grazie. Prego.
- Grazie mille.
253
00:14:04,761 --> 00:14:07,723
Wondering and guessing, I guess,
254
00:14:07,723 --> 00:14:11,518
the hotel is somewhere in the village.
255
00:14:13,395 --> 00:14:14,813
Ciao, Eugene.
256
00:14:14,813 --> 00:14:16,523
Buongiorno.
257
00:14:17,232 --> 00:14:21,236
- Welcome, I'm Giancarla. How are you?
- I'm good.
258
00:14:21,236 --> 00:14:23,113
- You made it.
- I did.
259
00:14:23,113 --> 00:14:25,616
It took about three
and a half weeks to get here.
260
00:14:26,617 --> 00:14:29,494
Giancarla has worked here for 12 years.
261
00:14:30,204 --> 00:14:33,457
So, what am I looking at here?
Is this the hotel?
262
00:14:34,208 --> 00:14:35,709
This is part of the hotel.
263
00:14:35,709 --> 00:14:39,755
And you're looking at
a 12th-century hamlet
264
00:14:39,755 --> 00:14:41,965
that has been brought back to life.
265
00:14:41,965 --> 00:14:46,136
This is a living village.
We have about 11 inhabitants still.
266
00:14:46,136 --> 00:14:48,680
- There are still people living here?
- Yes.
267
00:14:49,598 --> 00:14:52,518
Turns out the reason
I couldn't find the hotel
268
00:14:52,518 --> 00:14:55,312
is that the village is the hotel.
269
00:14:55,312 --> 00:14:59,858
Once upon a time, it was home to farmers
who worked the land below.
270
00:15:02,486 --> 00:15:05,656
But today, the hotel has been converted
271
00:15:05,656 --> 00:15:09,076
to blend seamlessly
with the original buildings.
272
00:15:10,827 --> 00:15:16,708
I wanted to take you over here to take
a look at the expanse of the Val d'Orcia.
273
00:15:16,708 --> 00:15:19,378
A place where architecture
and the landscape
274
00:15:19,378 --> 00:15:23,465
have lived in synergy
and harmony for centuries.
275
00:15:25,050 --> 00:15:26,468
Are you getting this?
276
00:15:34,101 --> 00:15:35,853
This is spectacular.
277
00:15:38,438 --> 00:15:40,566
Well, welcome to your suite.
278
00:15:42,067 --> 00:15:43,485
Not too shabby.
279
00:15:44,152 --> 00:15:47,322
This is called the Monte Cetona suite.
280
00:15:48,073 --> 00:15:50,075
It's one of the largest ones that we have.
281
00:15:50,075 --> 00:15:51,201
I like it.
282
00:15:52,786 --> 00:15:54,872
This is really pretty.
283
00:15:54,872 --> 00:15:58,417
I love the simplicity
with a sense of history.
284
00:15:59,001 --> 00:16:00,669
I love the beams. I love the wood.
285
00:16:00,669 --> 00:16:02,880
I just love the rustic nature.
286
00:16:04,840 --> 00:16:05,966
Got the view.
287
00:16:10,929 --> 00:16:15,309
A boutique hotel
in a medieval hilltop village.
288
00:16:16,226 --> 00:16:18,937
This is like nothing else I've ever seen.
289
00:16:19,855 --> 00:16:25,861
It's the kind of place that makes
this traveler feel, well, less reluctant.
290
00:16:27,279 --> 00:16:30,365
I'm really happy to be here, okay?
291
00:16:30,365 --> 00:16:34,119
Love the pace, love the quiet.
292
00:16:35,370 --> 00:16:39,208
It's a different way to go here, you know?
293
00:16:39,208 --> 00:16:44,421
It just hits all the senses
in such a relaxing way.
294
00:16:44,421 --> 00:16:48,300
You just feel like you just wanna
breathe out.
295
00:17:02,814 --> 00:17:07,277
I'm on my way to breakfast
in the square by the old village church.
296
00:17:07,778 --> 00:17:09,530
I had a spectacular night.
297
00:17:09,530 --> 00:17:11,198
Didn't hear a sound.
298
00:17:11,198 --> 00:17:15,661
Had the windows open,
soft breeze coming in, slept like a baby.
299
00:17:19,455 --> 00:17:22,166
We have scrambled eggs.
300
00:17:22,792 --> 00:17:27,130
And I serve it extra summer truffle.
301
00:17:27,631 --> 00:17:31,176
If they wanna put truffles on my eggs,
you're not gonna hear a no from me.
302
00:17:31,176 --> 00:17:33,262
- Enjoy.
- Yeah.
303
00:17:34,263 --> 00:17:38,767
Now this feels like
a step towards la dolce vita.
304
00:17:40,310 --> 00:17:41,436
Wow, that's good.
305
00:17:42,938 --> 00:17:44,231
Well, I was told
306
00:17:44,231 --> 00:17:48,026
that they're harvesting grapes
in the vineyards here in Tuscany,
307
00:17:48,026 --> 00:17:51,989
and I did say if they needed some help,
I would avail myself.
308
00:17:51,989 --> 00:17:56,743
But while I wait for Emiliano
to let me know when the grapes are ready,
309
00:17:56,743 --> 00:17:59,079
I've got some time to play with.
310
00:17:59,079 --> 00:18:02,124
Well, as much as I'd like
to be hanging around this hotel,
311
00:18:02,124 --> 00:18:03,667
which I could easily do,
312
00:18:03,667 --> 00:18:09,339
there is something pulling me toward
this gorgeous countryside here.
313
00:18:09,840 --> 00:18:11,508
So I may do a little exploring.
314
00:18:14,761 --> 00:18:20,350
You'll no doubt have realized by now
that I absolutely love Italian food,
315
00:18:20,350 --> 00:18:24,146
so the hotel has hooked me up
with the local producer
316
00:18:24,146 --> 00:18:27,649
responsible for the best thing
on my breakfast plate.
317
00:18:30,861 --> 00:18:34,448
I've never hunted for truffles.
I have no idea what that's about.
318
00:18:34,448 --> 00:18:37,034
I've hunted for good optical wear,
319
00:18:37,826 --> 00:18:40,746
but I wouldn't categorize
myself as being a hunter.
320
00:18:42,247 --> 00:18:43,832
I'm not fond of gathering either.
321
00:18:47,294 --> 00:18:48,420
Buongiorno.
322
00:18:48,420 --> 00:18:50,047
- Hello.
- Buongiorno.
323
00:18:50,047 --> 00:18:51,757
Federico.
324
00:18:51,757 --> 00:18:53,717
- Federico.
- The owner.
325
00:18:53,717 --> 00:18:57,513
- And I'm Tania. Nice to meet you.
- Tania. Nice to meet you.
326
00:18:57,513 --> 00:18:59,556
And who's this little guy?
327
00:18:59,556 --> 00:19:03,018
- Our truffle hunter.
- Oh, my goodness.
328
00:19:03,018 --> 00:19:04,019
Zara.
329
00:19:04,019 --> 00:19:07,022
- Zara, are we off truffle hunting?
- Okay.
330
00:19:07,022 --> 00:19:08,440
- Yeah?
- Come on.
331
00:19:08,440 --> 00:19:09,358
Here we go.
332
00:19:09,358 --> 00:19:13,445
Tania works with Federico
on his olive farm and vineyard,
333
00:19:13,445 --> 00:19:17,324
which just happens to be
in a prime location.
334
00:19:17,324 --> 00:19:21,286
We are in a very important area of Tuscany
335
00:19:21,286 --> 00:19:23,789
'cause inside that part of forest,
336
00:19:23,789 --> 00:19:29,461
there is the right climate
and the right soil to find the truffles.
337
00:19:30,754 --> 00:19:33,966
So any truffles I find
I can keep, I guess.
338
00:19:35,133 --> 00:19:37,719
- Perhaps.
- Yeah? Well, we'll discuss it, I guess.
339
00:19:38,303 --> 00:19:39,721
Okay, here we go.
340
00:19:40,222 --> 00:19:42,266
Now this looks like truffle country.
341
00:19:43,183 --> 00:19:47,312
I actually have no idea
what truffle country should look like.
342
00:19:47,312 --> 00:19:50,190
Fortunately, Zara does.
343
00:19:50,190 --> 00:19:53,819
Turns out they grow
between the roots of these trees.
344
00:19:53,819 --> 00:19:55,445
Unleash the beast, huh?
345
00:19:56,530 --> 00:19:57,531
That's it.
346
00:19:58,073 --> 00:20:00,200
Right, Zara. Come on, Zara.
347
00:20:00,993 --> 00:20:02,244
Truffle.
348
00:20:02,244 --> 00:20:05,914
Zara. Come on, honey. You're on the job.
349
00:20:08,667 --> 00:20:12,921
Zara has 50 times
as many smell receptors as a human.
350
00:20:12,921 --> 00:20:18,135
So she can trace the truffle's unique
odor even below ground.
351
00:20:18,135 --> 00:20:21,346
How do we know when she's onto something?
352
00:20:21,346 --> 00:20:24,892
You see-- 'Cause when she find a truffle,
353
00:20:24,892 --> 00:20:29,730
she's very excite,
and start to move the soil.
354
00:20:31,106 --> 00:20:32,107
Zara.
355
00:20:33,025 --> 00:20:34,026
Zara.
356
00:20:36,153 --> 00:20:38,322
You think she's onto something up here?
357
00:20:38,947 --> 00:20:40,240
Zara!
358
00:20:41,825 --> 00:20:43,410
- Thank you.
- All right.
359
00:20:44,161 --> 00:20:45,829
She find a truffle!
360
00:20:47,831 --> 00:20:48,832
No.
361
00:20:50,250 --> 00:20:53,295
- Dig, dig, dig. What do we got?
- Where's the truffle, Zara?
362
00:20:53,879 --> 00:20:55,881
- Wow!
- Yeah? Oh, baby!
363
00:20:56,798 --> 00:20:58,592
Good girl!
364
00:20:59,843 --> 00:21:05,224
Smell this truffle.
You can smell the earth.
365
00:21:05,224 --> 00:21:07,226
- Yeah, I-- Well, sure.
- Yeah.
366
00:21:07,226 --> 00:21:09,561
What would you sell a truffle for?
367
00:21:09,561 --> 00:21:16,235
- This is like gold.
- The price is about 60 euros. Minimum.
368
00:21:16,235 --> 00:21:20,614
That's a pretty good return
for a 20-minute stroll in the woods.
369
00:21:20,614 --> 00:21:22,324
We did good. We got a truffle.
370
00:21:22,324 --> 00:21:25,077
No more calls. We've got a truffle.
371
00:21:25,077 --> 00:21:26,954
Now, don't tell Tania,
372
00:21:26,954 --> 00:21:30,374
but I just might be shaving this
on some rigatoni.
373
00:21:31,834 --> 00:21:34,545
But food will have to wait for now...
374
00:21:36,588 --> 00:21:39,424
as I've still got more time for exploring.
375
00:21:40,217 --> 00:21:42,135
I'm heading to Sarteano,
376
00:21:43,804 --> 00:21:47,766
a 700-year-old town
down the hill from my hotel.
377
00:21:48,392 --> 00:21:52,855
The sweet life here, I'm told,
is all about finding your community.
378
00:21:53,564 --> 00:21:56,859
Going into the country
is always a bit of an adventure,
379
00:21:56,859 --> 00:22:00,487
so I'm hoping that this little jaunt
could be exciting.
380
00:22:11,832 --> 00:22:15,752
The locals are practicing
for an important annual event,
381
00:22:15,752 --> 00:22:17,796
the joust of the Saracens.
382
00:22:18,589 --> 00:22:22,342
And Giancarla has got me a backstage pass.
383
00:22:24,553 --> 00:22:25,888
Good! Wow.
384
00:22:25,888 --> 00:22:28,140
- How about that?
- This is Stefania.
385
00:22:28,140 --> 00:22:29,850
- I wanted to introduce you.
- Stefania.
386
00:22:29,850 --> 00:22:32,311
- Hello. Nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet you.
387
00:22:32,311 --> 00:22:38,567
This is a practice that our guys
of the joust of the Saracen are doing.
388
00:22:41,111 --> 00:22:44,781
These drums and flags
are the warm-up act for the main event,
389
00:22:44,781 --> 00:22:47,492
a jousting contest which takes place
390
00:22:47,492 --> 00:22:50,996
between Sarteano's
five traditional districts
391
00:22:50,996 --> 00:22:52,497
called contrada.
392
00:22:53,707 --> 00:22:57,503
So, every contrada has their own flag?
393
00:22:57,503 --> 00:23:02,090
Yes. Each contrada has
two medieval drummers, two flag wavers.
394
00:23:02,090 --> 00:23:04,134
How many practices do you have?
395
00:23:04,134 --> 00:23:06,845
- Many times in the year, yes.
- Yeah?
396
00:23:06,845 --> 00:23:07,971
All year long.
397
00:23:07,971 --> 00:23:09,681
- Okay. All right.
- Yes.
398
00:23:09,681 --> 00:23:15,395
If you want,
our guys can show you how to throw a flag.
399
00:23:15,395 --> 00:23:17,898
Well, who hasn't dreamt
about throwing flags?
400
00:23:17,898 --> 00:23:18,899
Okay.
401
00:23:21,693 --> 00:23:22,986
- Okay, so--
- Yeah.
402
00:23:23,570 --> 00:23:26,073
You follow me in this way.
403
00:23:26,073 --> 00:23:27,533
I do this.
404
00:23:28,033 --> 00:23:28,867
Like--
405
00:23:31,578 --> 00:23:32,412
And...
406
00:23:35,916 --> 00:23:38,252
This could be my last flag-tossing event.
407
00:23:38,252 --> 00:23:40,587
This is not what you want
on your tombstone.
408
00:23:41,213 --> 00:23:44,466
You know, took a flag in the skull.
409
00:23:44,466 --> 00:23:47,553
- This, and--
- Go.
410
00:23:48,303 --> 00:23:51,974
Incredibly,
this skill dates from medieval times,
411
00:23:51,974 --> 00:23:54,768
when it was part of military parades.
412
00:23:54,768 --> 00:23:55,853
One more.
413
00:23:56,436 --> 00:23:58,397
And here I am learning it.
414
00:23:58,397 --> 00:24:01,567
- Like this?
- Yeah.
415
00:24:01,567 --> 00:24:03,735
Well, kind of learning it.
416
00:24:03,735 --> 00:24:05,487
Three, and...
417
00:24:07,823 --> 00:24:10,117
Yay!
418
00:24:10,117 --> 00:24:11,910
Please, be seated.
419
00:24:17,249 --> 00:24:19,459
But for the next part of the practice...
420
00:24:22,129 --> 00:24:24,715
I'm sticking safely to the sidelines.
421
00:24:28,093 --> 00:24:29,970
It is a medieval joust.
422
00:24:29,970 --> 00:24:34,725
It became a tournament
in the 14th century, more or less.
423
00:24:34,725 --> 00:24:36,226
- Fourteenth century?
- Yes.
424
00:24:36,226 --> 00:24:37,144
Okay.
425
00:24:39,146 --> 00:24:41,273
The inaugural procession
is gonna start right now
426
00:24:41,273 --> 00:24:43,692
with the drummers and the flag throwers.
427
00:24:45,944 --> 00:24:47,654
The joust echoes a time
428
00:24:47,654 --> 00:24:51,241
when knights on horseback
would clash violently.
429
00:24:51,241 --> 00:24:56,747
But today, the opponent has been
replaced by a tiny ring for a target.
430
00:25:08,467 --> 00:25:10,177
That's a small ring.
431
00:25:11,261 --> 00:25:15,807
It's a very small ring,
and the lance is two meters and 80.
432
00:25:16,391 --> 00:25:19,937
So, long lance, small ring.
433
00:25:19,937 --> 00:25:23,982
It seems like an impossible task, until...
434
00:25:26,902 --> 00:25:29,404
- Wow. He's good.
- Yes.
435
00:25:29,404 --> 00:25:30,906
Bravo.
436
00:25:34,284 --> 00:25:37,579
Now, if I'd stuck
to my old traveling habits,
437
00:25:37,579 --> 00:25:40,499
I wouldn't have seen Tuscany
in quite the same way.
438
00:25:40,499 --> 00:25:43,502
At the end of the day,
I'm always glad I venture out,
439
00:25:43,502 --> 00:25:46,505
you know, and try and experience things.
440
00:25:46,505 --> 00:25:48,131
It's kind of rewarding.
441
00:25:50,217 --> 00:25:53,178
And I've found that, as well as the food,
442
00:25:53,178 --> 00:25:55,514
I also love the sense of community.
443
00:25:55,514 --> 00:25:59,601
Both are as important to me
as they are to Italians.
444
00:26:00,143 --> 00:26:01,728
There is a warmth about it.
445
00:26:01,728 --> 00:26:05,482
There is a kind of a lovely, familial,
communal feeling.
446
00:26:07,860 --> 00:26:12,531
I didn't necessarily feel
too much like a tourist today.
447
00:26:12,531 --> 00:26:15,033
I felt like a citizen of Tuscany.
448
00:26:15,033 --> 00:26:17,995
It was nice to kind of feel
like you're a part of it.
449
00:26:28,380 --> 00:26:30,174
Grazie.
450
00:26:30,174 --> 00:26:32,426
Prego. I will let you
enjoy your cappuccino.
451
00:26:33,135 --> 00:26:34,511
Don't mind if I do.
452
00:26:36,430 --> 00:26:38,599
This is how you wanna start a day.
453
00:26:39,474 --> 00:26:42,519
Italy comes as close
to my own pace of life
454
00:26:43,395 --> 00:26:46,190
as just about any country
that I've been in.
455
00:26:49,318 --> 00:26:51,612
It's my final day in Italy,
456
00:26:51,612 --> 00:26:55,282
and Emiliano has asked me
to meet him at the vineyard,
457
00:26:55,282 --> 00:26:57,868
hopefully to begin the wine harvest.
458
00:26:58,577 --> 00:27:00,287
I think getting in and helping out,
459
00:27:00,287 --> 00:27:05,167
getting some grapes, putting them
in a basket is kind of a fun thing to do,
460
00:27:05,167 --> 00:27:10,380
but nature sets the course
for when things are ready to be harvested.
461
00:27:12,758 --> 00:27:13,759
Emiliano!
462
00:27:13,759 --> 00:27:16,470
- Hey, Eugene!
- Come stai.
463
00:27:16,470 --> 00:27:19,223
- Matteo. Nice to meet you.
- Matteo.
464
00:27:19,223 --> 00:27:20,557
How do you know each other?
465
00:27:20,557 --> 00:27:24,394
We met 22 years ago in elementary school,
466
00:27:24,394 --> 00:27:27,105
and we have been
growing up together like brothers.
467
00:27:27,105 --> 00:27:28,190
Wow.
468
00:27:29,233 --> 00:27:32,945
Italy is one of
the world's largest wine producers,
469
00:27:32,945 --> 00:27:36,156
and traditionally,
when the grapes are ready,
470
00:27:36,156 --> 00:27:40,994
the whole community joins
in la vendemmia, or, the wine harvest.
471
00:27:40,994 --> 00:27:44,456
Around this time of the year, you know,
you receive a call from your nonno,
472
00:27:44,456 --> 00:27:45,374
your grandfather.
473
00:27:45,374 --> 00:27:47,668
"What do you do this weekend?"
"I don't know."
474
00:27:47,668 --> 00:27:50,462
"You come with me.
We go harvest the wine."
475
00:27:50,462 --> 00:27:51,922
- It's fun. You're gonna love it.
- Okay.
476
00:27:51,922 --> 00:27:53,465
- You're gonna love it.
- All right. This is good.
477
00:27:53,465 --> 00:27:55,092
- You wanna go?
- Yeah, let's do it.
478
00:27:55,092 --> 00:27:56,051
Let's do it.
479
00:27:58,679 --> 00:27:59,805
- Buongiorno.
- Hey.
480
00:27:59,805 --> 00:28:01,348
- What's your name?
- Enea.
481
00:28:01,348 --> 00:28:03,433
- I am the manager here.
- Eugene.
482
00:28:03,433 --> 00:28:05,561
- Nice to meet you.
- Nice to meet you.
483
00:28:06,979 --> 00:28:08,814
- So we're off to the vineyard?
- Yep.
484
00:28:08,814 --> 00:28:12,776
We going to see which area
is more suitable to be harvested.
485
00:28:12,776 --> 00:28:17,489
Why would some vineyards be ready
for harvesting and others not ready?
486
00:28:17,489 --> 00:28:20,242
Because we have four kind of red grapes,
487
00:28:20,242 --> 00:28:22,828
and every one have
a different ripeness time.
488
00:28:25,873 --> 00:28:27,249
This is the merlot area.
489
00:28:27,249 --> 00:28:29,168
We going to start trying first this one.
490
00:28:30,627 --> 00:28:33,213
First, we try it.
What do you feel when you try it?
491
00:28:37,968 --> 00:28:38,969
Tastes like a grape.
492
00:28:41,013 --> 00:28:43,640
Okay. The flavor is more full.
493
00:28:43,640 --> 00:28:45,893
You feel more also
at the back of the tongue.
494
00:28:45,893 --> 00:28:49,897
This is a signal that say
that merlot area is ready.
495
00:28:49,897 --> 00:28:51,857
So, how quickly
do you have to harvest them?
496
00:28:51,857 --> 00:28:56,486
When we reach the right ripeness time,
we have to proceed almost immediately
497
00:28:56,486 --> 00:28:59,156
because if you wait
maybe for one day more,
498
00:28:59,156 --> 00:29:00,699
it's going to be too late.
499
00:29:00,699 --> 00:29:02,034
- One day more?
- Yep.
500
00:29:02,034 --> 00:29:04,244
If you wait a day, it's too later.
501
00:29:04,244 --> 00:29:05,996
What if you sleep in?
Like, if you sleep in?
502
00:29:05,996 --> 00:29:07,915
- You don't get up on time?
- No, we don't.
503
00:29:07,915 --> 00:29:08,832
Wow.
504
00:29:08,832 --> 00:29:11,210
- I don't wanna wait already.
- No. There's no--
505
00:29:11,210 --> 00:29:12,961
No-- Let's g-- You're taking your time.
506
00:29:13,629 --> 00:29:14,630
You've gotta go.
507
00:29:16,965 --> 00:29:18,258
Grapes are ready.
508
00:29:18,258 --> 00:29:19,927
All right. Let's go.
509
00:29:19,927 --> 00:29:24,723
Emiliano, Matteo,
and I have our own row to harvest.
510
00:29:25,557 --> 00:29:28,227
- I see. And I see this one here.
- This one is easier.
511
00:29:28,227 --> 00:29:29,561
All right, that's good.
512
00:29:29,561 --> 00:29:32,314
Piece of cake, so far.
513
00:29:32,898 --> 00:29:34,358
And we got a little one here.
514
00:29:34,983 --> 00:29:37,069
- That's done.
- Okay.
515
00:29:38,111 --> 00:29:40,614
Okay, all right.
I've got the hang of this now.
516
00:29:41,573 --> 00:29:42,824
How is it going there?
517
00:29:45,077 --> 00:29:49,498
I would actually suggest
hiring very short people, you know?
518
00:29:49,498 --> 00:29:50,415
That's a good point.
519
00:29:50,415 --> 00:29:53,126
Because this is, like-- this is--
It's, like, backbreaking.
520
00:29:54,461 --> 00:29:57,047
Look at this. Now I'm moving along.
521
00:30:00,509 --> 00:30:02,427
If you guys can't keep up...
522
00:30:02,427 --> 00:30:04,972
- They are too slow.
- Well, they are too slow.
523
00:30:04,972 --> 00:30:09,184
And if I-- If this was my vineyard,
they'd be gone.
524
00:30:10,435 --> 00:30:11,436
They'd be fired.
525
00:30:11,436 --> 00:30:13,105
They did this when they were kids.
526
00:30:13,105 --> 00:30:14,106
Right?
527
00:30:14,106 --> 00:30:18,026
And you can tell just, like,
how they were probably just goofing off
528
00:30:18,026 --> 00:30:21,321
when they were kids, and it looks like
they're working the same way.
529
00:30:23,115 --> 00:30:25,993
You guys are ridiculously bad
at this right now.
530
00:30:25,993 --> 00:30:27,578
Do I sound like your nonna?
531
00:30:29,705 --> 00:30:32,082
Well, that's a sad fact of life. I am.
532
00:30:32,082 --> 00:30:35,085
You see, this is also
part of the vendemmia.
533
00:30:35,085 --> 00:30:37,838
Enjoying the time with people around you.
534
00:30:37,838 --> 00:30:39,423
With your family, with your friends.
535
00:30:39,423 --> 00:30:41,216
So this is also the beauty of it.
536
00:30:41,216 --> 00:30:43,927
- Well, it-- that's the way it should be.
- Exactly.
537
00:30:49,266 --> 00:30:51,476
- I mean, this...
- Yeah.
538
00:30:52,436 --> 00:30:54,521
...is absolutely stunning, isn't it?
539
00:31:01,361 --> 00:31:04,406
How many tourists get a chance to do this?
540
00:31:06,658 --> 00:31:09,745
Do you feel connected
to the grape, to the soil?
541
00:31:10,537 --> 00:31:13,957
I feel more connected to
my chiropractor right now.
542
00:31:15,501 --> 00:31:17,586
Eugene, guys. Come over.
543
00:31:17,586 --> 00:31:19,671
- Let's go.
- Good. Thank you, Matteo.
544
00:31:19,671 --> 00:31:20,714
You're welcome.
545
00:31:20,714 --> 00:31:24,259
- Quality is fine. Quality is good.
- Yeah, very good job.
546
00:31:24,259 --> 00:31:25,594
We can definitely use it.
547
00:31:28,722 --> 00:31:31,850
Now we load it back on
the back of the pickup truck.
548
00:31:32,351 --> 00:31:34,895
Our grapes are on their way
back to the winery,
549
00:31:34,895 --> 00:31:37,731
where they'll be added
to the rest of the harvest,
550
00:31:37,731 --> 00:31:42,486
crushed, then fermented,
and finally aged in barrels.
551
00:31:43,153 --> 00:31:46,698
It's a great excuse to come back
for my bottle when it's done.
552
00:31:46,698 --> 00:31:48,992
Like I need an excuse.
553
00:31:48,992 --> 00:31:54,498
Back at the kitchen,
our reward for a job well done, lunch.
554
00:31:54,498 --> 00:31:58,085
This is gonna be some party,
and well deserved.
555
00:31:58,085 --> 00:32:04,341
Along with some incredible Italian food.
556
00:32:04,842 --> 00:32:05,759
Okay.
557
00:32:05,759 --> 00:32:08,470
I call it Italian food. They call it food.
558
00:32:09,680 --> 00:32:14,852
And I'm pleased to say
that I brought my own humble contribution.
559
00:32:15,686 --> 00:32:16,687
Wow.
560
00:32:19,064 --> 00:32:21,066
Wow.
561
00:32:21,066 --> 00:32:25,654
The truffles in here,
that's what I dug out of the ground, okay?
562
00:32:25,654 --> 00:32:28,657
With the help of a cute little dog.
563
00:32:30,659 --> 00:32:34,162
And who's the young lady
that prepared the pasta?
564
00:32:34,162 --> 00:32:37,499
Patrizia. She cook also for us
here every day...
565
00:32:37,499 --> 00:32:39,084
- Every day?
- ...for our lunch. Yes.
566
00:32:39,084 --> 00:32:41,587
Emiliano, you're very, very good at this.
567
00:32:41,587 --> 00:32:44,006
- You're good at this.
- Thank you. I have my own technique.
568
00:32:44,006 --> 00:32:47,342
{\an8}Did you work as a waiter
when you were a kid as well?
569
00:32:47,342 --> 00:32:50,304
{\an8}No, never.
But my mom taught me, I guess.
570
00:32:50,304 --> 00:32:51,555
All right.
571
00:32:53,307 --> 00:32:56,101
I knew I loved Italy,
but before this trip,
572
00:32:56,101 --> 00:32:58,687
I couldn't quite put my finger on why.
573
00:32:59,396 --> 00:33:01,440
Now, I get it.
574
00:33:01,940 --> 00:33:05,235
Look at this. This is Italy to me.
575
00:33:07,237 --> 00:33:11,074
It's a way of living.
576
00:33:11,992 --> 00:33:13,452
It's community.
577
00:33:14,786 --> 00:33:16,205
It's food.
578
00:33:16,788 --> 00:33:18,081
It's wine.
579
00:33:18,916 --> 00:33:21,585
But it's more than that.
580
00:33:21,585 --> 00:33:27,716
It's taking the time
to appreciate all those things.
581
00:33:27,716 --> 00:33:32,721
An appreciation made possible
by a slower pace of life.
582
00:33:33,263 --> 00:33:35,432
Patrizia, delizioso.
583
00:33:35,432 --> 00:33:37,100
- To you.
- Salute.
584
00:33:37,100 --> 00:33:38,268
Salute.
585
00:33:38,268 --> 00:33:43,690
That is la dolce vita to me.
That is the sweet life.
586
00:33:43,690 --> 00:33:47,611
And it's as close to, you know,
587
00:33:47,611 --> 00:33:51,240
my own priorities in life as you can get.
588
00:33:52,115 --> 00:33:54,326
So arrivederci, Italy.
589
00:33:55,077 --> 00:33:58,080
My next stop has a lot to live up to.
590
00:33:59,414 --> 00:34:00,499
Next time...
591
00:34:00,499 --> 00:34:02,417
First time in Greece...
592
00:34:02,417 --> 00:34:03,460
This is your villa.
593
00:34:03,460 --> 00:34:04,962
This is beautiful.
594
00:34:04,962 --> 00:34:06,296
Oh, yeah. That's good.
595
00:34:06,296 --> 00:34:08,882
And already I'm feeling philosophical.
596
00:34:08,882 --> 00:34:10,801
I think I've just found a new vocation.
597
00:34:10,801 --> 00:34:12,052
Bravo!
598
00:34:12,052 --> 00:34:13,094
An octopus!
599
00:34:13,094 --> 00:34:14,263
Yeah, no.
600
00:34:14,263 --> 00:34:16,849
I can't eat octopus.
I know what they look like.
601
00:34:18,433 --> 00:34:19,768
Bravo, Eugene!