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They say to travel is to live.
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Well, maybe, if a day at the airport
doesn't suck the life out of you first.
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I mean, where else would you be told
to arrive two hours early
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only to become dangerously close
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to being two hours late?
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Still, I think my travels last year
were good for me.
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They seemed to broaden my outlook.
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To a degree.
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So now, I'm taking on
what is apparently a must-do
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for any respectable traveler.
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I'm doing Europe.
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All right. Where are we, exactly?
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I'm going all continental...
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from the very top to the very bottom.
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I'm heading off the beaten track
to discover some real hidden gems...
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Are you getting this?
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...and embrace
this budding spirit for adventure.
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Look at me. No hands.
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They're right here. What is this, the bow?
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I'll be educating my taste buds...
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Wow, that was so good.
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Grapes are ready.
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...and trying to live like a local.
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Welcome to my village.
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This is insane.
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I just saved your life. Remember me.
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I'm packing any worries in my luggage...
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Here they come.
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You never know what the body's gonna do
when it's in abject terror.
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I don't think I've done anything
quite like this since I was a kid.
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...and I'm about to utter three words
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I've never said before.
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Ready for takeoff.
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My European odyssey continues.
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And I find myself in a country
that has given the world philosophy,
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democracy, the Olympics and olives.
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All important stuff.
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But only one of them
makes for a good martini.
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Well, if America is the rambunctious
teenager in the worldly family,
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then Greece would be
the wise old grandfather.
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Albeit a grandfather with a penchant
for nodding off in the afternoon sun.
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I'm here on the stunning island of Milos,
with a population of just 5,000,
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and wondering if learning about life
on this tiny island
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might help me to better understand
the bigger picture.
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It's funny, I just got here,
and already, I'm feeling philosophical.
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I've traveled across
the Mediterranean from Italy to Greece,
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swapping the green hills of Tuscany
for something significantly more rugged.
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Greece has a staggering
6,000 islands, give or take.
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And it's one of
the sunniest places in the world,
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with around 300 days of sunshine per year.
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And here by the Aegean Sea,
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that sun is really beating down
on this beautiful harbor.
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So, I'm heading to my hotel
to get some shade.
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- Hello, Mr. Levy.
- Hi.
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- Welcome to Milos.
- Please, it's Eugene.
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- My name is Andreas.
- Andreas.
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I'm your local driver.
I'll drive you to your accommodation.
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- Thank you.
- Please.
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So is it your first time here?
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First time in Greece.
How spectacular is this?
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The image of Greece that I have in my mind
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is just kind of royal blue skies
and stark white buildings.
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Just like you saw in Mamma Mia.
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I've been told about
the beauty of this country.
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Unfortunately,
I wasn't told about these cliffs.
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Just don't get too close, Andreas.
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- I will not.
- Yeah, stay on the safer side.
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Hug the wall, as they say.
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- Hug the wall.
- I will.
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You don't find roads like this in Toronto.
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A self-confessed city boy,
I've chosen to visit Milos
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as it's one of the smaller
and more traditional islands.
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And I'm curious to find out
what it takes to live here.
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Oh, yeah. That's good.
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Before I get
a taste of living like a local,
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I'm treating myself to a stay
at the five-star Milos Cove.
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And since it's my show,
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it won't surprise you to hear
I think it's a pretty good place to start.
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And starting at just over $400 a night,
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it's a far cry from the fisherman's
cottages the island is known for.
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Hello, Mr. Levy. How are you?
Welcome to Milos Cove.
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Welcome to Milos.
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Yannis and his son, Andreas,
originally from Athens,
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fell in love with the island and had
a crazy dream of building a hotel here.
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This is beautiful.
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This is our favorite corner, here.
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I love this.
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This was a beach when we had
holidays here when I was a child.
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And we came with my family, all together.
And we spend our summer here.
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This place has been
a passion project for the father-son duo
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who spent seven years
bringing their vision to life.
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How do you guys work together?
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Is it good? It's nice and smooth?
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For sure. I enjoy it, most of the time.
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Uh-huh. Okay.
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So you have moments?
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- Yeah.
- Okay, you have disagreements.
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Whatever happens, you know,
he is my father and I am his son.
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For us, the hotel, it is a family.
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So, what I mean, we feel that our guests,
also our people that are working with us,
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it's part of our family.
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It's a big family.
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Now, I know a thing
or two about working with family,
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so I've got nothing but admiration
for what they've achieved here.
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So this is your villa.
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Please come in.
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This is your home for the next few days.
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- Wow. Yannis, I like it.
- You like it?
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- I like it.
- Happy to hear it.
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You know, here, you have everything.
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You can have your private chef,
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your spa therapies.
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So it's a place that
you don't need to move.
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Just you can stay here forever.
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So, what is life like on this island?
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Everybody knows everybody here.
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So if you want to keep a secret,
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you know, what happens in Milos
doesn't stay in Milos.
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So, Eugene, I'll let you
enjoy your villa and the island.
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Yannis, thank you.
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I don't need to be told twice.
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Because this right here
is my idea of heaven.
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- Yes. Hi.
- Hello, Mr. Levy.
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Yanni, the hotel's executive chef,
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has dropped by with a treat.
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Here's a little something
from me and my team.
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It's locally sourced octopus
and our homemade bread, bruschetta.
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Locally sourced octopus?
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And it was all going so well.
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It's something you find
around Greece all the time,
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especially in the island you are in.
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Well, listen, "never" is a big word.
And I can honestly use it.
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'Cause never, I don't think,
will eat octopus.
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It's just-- I can't.
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I know what they look like, you know?
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It ain't gonna happen.
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If you want to get
the lay of the land anywhere,
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you have to visit the local bar.
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So, I'm off to meet Yannis for a drink.
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- Hello. Welcome. How are you?
- I found it.
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Yes, please, have a seat.
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Phatses is one of
only a few tavernas on the island.
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When their workday is done, this is
where many of the islanders come to relax.
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Well, it's a place where we have fun.
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We are hearing music,
we are drinking and having a good time.
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- I see you got a head start.
- Yes. I have a tipple.
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Would you like an ouzo?
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Ouzo is the traditional...
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- An ouzo?
- ...spirit in Greece.
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- Would you like to have? Okay.
- Let's go. Ouzo it is.
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Talk about blowing in the wind, you know.
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- Yes.
- And I'm not talking about Bob Dylan.
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- It's a windy island.
- Yes.
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Actually, we have wind for, let's say,
about ten days per year.
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The rest of the year is more quiet.
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- Hello. Here you are.
- Yes. Hi.
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A little ouzo.
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- Thank you.
- Ouzo.
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- All together.
- Yes, of course.
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- Yes.
- Cheers.
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- There we go. Cheers.
- Cheers.
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Here we go.
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- Mamma!
- Nice?
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It actually is.
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It's like the pastis
I tried in France, but different.
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And by different, I mean stronger.
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I can already feel
the easy-going vibe here.
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There isn't a person in here
without a smile on their face.
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The magic word in Greek is kefi.
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I cannot really translate it in English.
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It means joy of life.
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- Forget your problems.
- Yeah.
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Whatever happens,
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you have to change your emotions
and go to happiness.
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You see, there are people
that they are full of problems.
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But when they come here,
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when they come to taverna with music,
they forget everything.
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You have to have a release.
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I can see how ouzo
helps achieve a state of kefi,
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but if that fails, there's always plan B.
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Just smash some plates?
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Like this!
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Yes!
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- Wow!
- Come on.
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Eugene. That's it. Bravo.
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It's said the plate smashing
tradition began in ancient Greece
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to ward off evil spirits and bring joy.
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Two shots of ouzo, and you know,
give me something else to throw.
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You know, I almost threw Yannis.
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Well, kefi is a common-sense philosophy.
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Getting together with friends,
unwinding and letting things go
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and spreading the joy
and spreading the love.
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Fun night.
Kinda got into the spirit of Greece.
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Thanks to last night's ouzo,
I've slept like a baby.
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Now I'm ready to discover
if I can learn to live like an islander,
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so I'm heading into town.
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Built on a hilltop,
Plaka is the capital of Milos
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and home to just around 800 people.
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I'm meeting Eleni,
expert in all things Greek,
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to show me around
this pretty little place...
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if I can find her.
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00:12:50,938 --> 00:12:55,901
To be honest, I think it's a little dicey,
'cause everything's a little alleyway.
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I wish she could have been more specific.
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I'm hoping this is the right way to go.
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Bit of a crapshoot right now.
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00:13:09,373 --> 00:13:10,791
- Eugene.
- Eleni.
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00:13:10,791 --> 00:13:12,960
Yay! Great job. You found me.
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What a spot to be found in.
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00:13:16,380 --> 00:13:19,216
And as soon as you came around the
corner, the wind actually died down a bit.
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Well, I kinda do that.
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00:13:24,012 --> 00:13:28,392
Eleni grew up in Greece
with a Greek father and an English mother,
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00:13:28,892 --> 00:13:33,605
which explains why she speaks
the King's English better than I do.
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00:13:33,605 --> 00:13:36,733
Everyone likes to think white
and blue are the colors of Greece,
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00:13:36,733 --> 00:13:38,151
yes, in the Greek flag.
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00:13:38,151 --> 00:13:41,822
But, you see, in 1938,
we had an outbreak of cholera
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00:13:41,822 --> 00:13:43,031
here on the Greek islands.
217
00:13:43,031 --> 00:13:45,868
The dictator at the time,
a man named Ioannis Metaxas,
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orders everyone here
to whitewash their houses
219
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because, basically,
the whitewash uses lime.
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- And lime's a powerful disinfectant.
- Disinfectant.
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00:13:54,960 --> 00:13:58,755
They've gotta change their story
for the pamphlets. Okay?
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It doesn't really sell as well as...
223
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- I-- It doesn't quite sell as well.
- ...the colors of Greece, does it?
224
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No, I know.
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And ironically,
the only reason the blue is so dominant
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is actually because
it was the cheapest color.
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- Again, gotta change--
- Change the story.
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00:14:11,226 --> 00:14:13,687
- Change their story.
- Change the narrative.
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00:14:14,605 --> 00:14:17,691
This may be a peaceful,
beautiful place now,
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but it's taken centuries
of hardship to get here.
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I've never seen windier streets
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- than in this little town.
- There's a good reason for them though.
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00:14:27,326 --> 00:14:32,164
They did intentionally make sure
that all of the streets are winding,
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almost like a labyrinth.
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00:14:34,833 --> 00:14:36,376
They wanted to make sure that it's easy
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for people that don't know
the place to get lost.
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Can you imagine why?
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00:14:39,880 --> 00:14:43,467
No, I don't know what
sense that would make, but go ahead.
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So from very early on,
Milos had a problem with pirates.
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00:14:47,012 --> 00:14:50,265
And that's the entire
reason they're built in this way.
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00:14:50,265 --> 00:14:54,061
The idea was that they're gonna get lost,
and that'll give the islanders time
242
00:14:54,061 --> 00:14:56,939
to really find a way
to deal with it or to escape.
243
00:14:57,773 --> 00:15:00,776
Okay, pirates. Now we're talking.
244
00:15:00,776 --> 00:15:03,862
And Greece has come up
with other unique ways
245
00:15:03,862 --> 00:15:06,198
of dealing with threats
to their well-being.
246
00:15:06,198 --> 00:15:08,534
Like the evil eye.
247
00:15:08,534 --> 00:15:13,247
Because sometimes just smashing
plates isn't enough to protect you.
248
00:15:13,247 --> 00:15:14,915
So you've never heard
of the evil eye before?
249
00:15:14,915 --> 00:15:17,292
Well, I've heard the expression ev--
And there it is on the hat.
250
00:15:17,292 --> 00:15:20,379
And there it is on the hat,
you'll see it in the jewelry.
251
00:15:20,379 --> 00:15:22,256
It's pretty much everywhere you go.
252
00:15:22,256 --> 00:15:24,633
The idea is that if someone
is envious of you,
253
00:15:24,633 --> 00:15:27,970
if they're jealous of you,
they will give you the evil eye.
254
00:15:27,970 --> 00:15:32,057
If you're not wearing one of these,
then it'll actually make you very ill.
255
00:15:32,057 --> 00:15:34,101
You'll get headaches
that just won't go away.
256
00:15:34,101 --> 00:15:36,228
You'll feel tired and lethargic.
257
00:15:36,228 --> 00:15:40,190
Not everyone will wear the evil eye,
so if you are complimenting them,
258
00:15:40,190 --> 00:15:42,609
or if you know everything
is going really well for them
259
00:15:42,609 --> 00:15:45,279
and you want to protect them
from the evil eye from other people...
260
00:15:45,279 --> 00:15:47,072
- Yeah.
- ...you have to spit on them.
261
00:15:47,072 --> 00:15:49,741
- And I'm not even joking.
- You have to spit on them?
262
00:15:49,741 --> 00:15:52,035
You have to spit. So if I wanted
to give you a compliment like,
263
00:15:52,035 --> 00:15:54,746
"Eugene, I really love
the shirt you're wearing today.
264
00:15:54,746 --> 00:15:57,165
You look very fetching."
I would then have to go...
265
00:15:58,834 --> 00:16:00,544
three times to invoke the Holy Trinity.
266
00:16:00,544 --> 00:16:04,798
If you wanted to compliment the shop and
say, "Everything is wonderful in here"--
267
00:16:04,798 --> 00:16:06,049
I don't want to spit on this lady.
268
00:16:06,800 --> 00:16:09,261
- I'm sure she would appreciate it.
- Why would I spit on this lady?
269
00:16:09,261 --> 00:16:10,929
- I would appreciate it.
- There you go.
270
00:16:10,929 --> 00:16:12,306
That is good.
271
00:16:12,306 --> 00:16:16,101
You have a very, very, very lovely shop...
272
00:16:16,101 --> 00:16:18,187
- Now you have to do the...
- ...here.
273
00:16:19,646 --> 00:16:21,940
- There you go. Bravo.
- Excellent.
274
00:16:21,940 --> 00:16:24,318
All right. Tom, you're doing
excellent camera work.
275
00:16:28,113 --> 00:16:29,698
Don't take that the wrong way.
276
00:16:29,698 --> 00:16:30,824
Eleni's fabulous.
277
00:16:30,824 --> 00:16:33,368
And she knows
everything about this island.
278
00:16:33,368 --> 00:16:34,870
Knows everything about this town.
279
00:16:34,870 --> 00:16:39,291
Do I know as much about my country
as she knows about Greece?
280
00:16:40,125 --> 00:16:40,959
No.
281
00:16:41,668 --> 00:16:45,297
I'm picking up
on the can-do attitude on the island.
282
00:16:45,297 --> 00:16:48,926
For me, it's probably more
of a "can give it a try."
283
00:16:48,926 --> 00:16:54,014
And I'm about to give something a try
that's at the heart of island living.
284
00:16:54,515 --> 00:16:59,603
Chef Yanni is taking me to source
fresh fish for the hotel's restaurant.
285
00:16:59,603 --> 00:17:02,940
But he didn't see
my performance in Scotland.
286
00:17:03,482 --> 00:17:05,108
Were you born in Milos?
287
00:17:05,692 --> 00:17:06,527
No.
288
00:17:06,527 --> 00:17:08,904
Actually, I'm from north--
a north part of Greece.
289
00:17:08,904 --> 00:17:11,656
A friend of mine just
offered me a job on the island,
290
00:17:11,656 --> 00:17:13,367
and I fell in love with the island.
291
00:17:13,367 --> 00:17:14,952
It's beautiful. It's amazing.
292
00:17:14,952 --> 00:17:20,582
I really like that people are not rushing
here, they're not stressed about anything.
293
00:17:20,582 --> 00:17:24,877
They just let the life
unfold in front of them.
294
00:17:24,877 --> 00:17:27,631
I'm not sure I would...
295
00:17:28,298 --> 00:17:32,636
do too well living in a small community
296
00:17:32,636 --> 00:17:34,805
unless it was next to a great golf course.
297
00:17:34,805 --> 00:17:36,265
That would be--
298
00:17:36,265 --> 00:17:38,684
That might change my tune a little bit.
299
00:17:39,935 --> 00:17:43,146
Well, apparently,
there's no golf course on the island,
300
00:17:43,146 --> 00:17:46,441
so I need a new hobby
better suited to living here.
301
00:17:47,651 --> 00:17:52,573
Fishing has been vitally important
to the islands for thousands of years,
302
00:17:52,573 --> 00:17:57,536
with around 95% of boats
belonging to small-scale fishermen.
303
00:17:58,745 --> 00:18:00,789
So we're meeting Captain Andreas.
304
00:18:00,789 --> 00:18:05,836
He was born and raised in Milos
and comes from a long line of fishermen.
305
00:18:05,836 --> 00:18:08,547
A fishing line, if you will.
306
00:18:09,173 --> 00:18:13,385
I see Andreas is wearing
his fishing attire, is that right?
307
00:18:13,385 --> 00:18:14,720
Do we need those?
308
00:18:14,720 --> 00:18:17,472
- Or are we okay?
- You can have one, yes.
309
00:18:17,472 --> 00:18:19,349
You can have one to protect yourself.
310
00:18:24,855 --> 00:18:26,440
- Is that good?
- Perfect.
311
00:18:26,440 --> 00:18:27,774
- Wow.
- Perfect fit.
312
00:18:27,774 --> 00:18:29,276
Now you look like a proper fisherman.
313
00:18:29,276 --> 00:18:32,654
Well, I look like a proper something.
314
00:18:37,367 --> 00:18:41,371
Even though I wasn't born
into a fishing family like our captain,
315
00:18:41,955 --> 00:18:46,293
I'm starting to see
the attraction to a life on the open sea.
316
00:18:46,293 --> 00:18:50,881
Boy, when the sun's out,
the water turns so blue.
317
00:18:50,881 --> 00:18:53,050
It's gorgeous. The colors, everything.
318
00:18:54,510 --> 00:18:57,054
I never went fishing when I was a kid.
319
00:18:57,054 --> 00:19:00,599
My dad didn't fish. Nobody fishes.
320
00:19:00,599 --> 00:19:05,771
If you're gonna be out, using a net
to catch fish, this is where to do it.
321
00:19:18,325 --> 00:19:20,536
He just informed me that we arrived.
322
00:19:20,536 --> 00:19:22,454
Our buoy is over there.
323
00:19:22,454 --> 00:19:25,707
Andreas cast his fishing nets
the night before,
324
00:19:25,707 --> 00:19:29,419
while I was drinking ouzo
and smashing plates.
325
00:19:29,419 --> 00:19:32,506
He learned everything
he knows from his father.
326
00:19:32,506 --> 00:19:34,967
He started quite early,
when he was about ten years old.
327
00:19:34,967 --> 00:19:39,263
His dad was fishing when he was
young as well from his grandfather.
328
00:19:39,263 --> 00:19:42,391
So, it's been a long line of fishermen.
329
00:19:42,391 --> 00:19:46,270
Andreas, do you want
your son to be a fisherman as well?
330
00:19:47,229 --> 00:19:48,772
That was a hard no.
331
00:19:51,149 --> 00:19:55,153
There are fewer fish in
the Aegean Sea than there used to be.
332
00:19:55,153 --> 00:20:00,075
So this work is harder
and less rewarding than it once was.
333
00:20:00,075 --> 00:20:02,369
- Octopus.
- That's an octopus.
334
00:20:02,369 --> 00:20:04,788
An octopus! Wow!
335
00:20:04,788 --> 00:20:06,248
That's your lucky day, isn't it?
336
00:20:06,248 --> 00:20:08,125
Yeah, still going.
337
00:20:08,125 --> 00:20:10,752
- How about that?
- That's a small one.
338
00:20:10,752 --> 00:20:12,796
- Yeah, no.
- Do you-- No?
339
00:20:12,796 --> 00:20:14,381
No.
340
00:20:14,381 --> 00:20:16,008
- You have a problem?
- No.
341
00:20:16,008 --> 00:20:18,510
- No, that's fine.
- I mean, it will go back to sea.
342
00:20:18,510 --> 00:20:19,803
- Yeah.
- We're not taking that one.
343
00:20:19,803 --> 00:20:21,722
- He'll go back to sea.
- It's quite small.
344
00:20:21,722 --> 00:20:24,141
- Okay.
- There you go. Bye.
345
00:20:24,141 --> 00:20:25,184
Bye.
346
00:20:25,184 --> 00:20:27,269
Wow, he's gonna remember this.
347
00:20:27,769 --> 00:20:32,024
And so am I.
I think he gave me the evil eye.
348
00:20:32,024 --> 00:20:34,026
- Do you want to have a go?
- You want me to pull it in?
349
00:20:34,026 --> 00:20:36,320
- Let me see.
- Just stabilize yourself.
350
00:20:36,320 --> 00:20:38,447
- And then slowly, slowly, it's coming.
- Uh-oh.
351
00:20:38,447 --> 00:20:39,948
Right. Well done.
352
00:20:39,948 --> 00:20:41,074
Uh-huh.
353
00:20:43,327 --> 00:20:44,703
- Uh-oh.
- That's a scarus.
354
00:20:44,703 --> 00:20:47,289
- A scarus.
- A scarus, exactly.
355
00:20:47,956 --> 00:20:49,291
Scarus. Big one.
356
00:20:49,291 --> 00:20:51,126
- That's a big scarus.
- Scarus.
357
00:20:51,126 --> 00:20:54,004
And that's a male scarus.
That's our lunch today. Sorted.
358
00:20:54,922 --> 00:20:57,799
Slightly easier to catch than octopus,
359
00:20:57,799 --> 00:21:01,428
scarus is also
a popular dish on the islands.
360
00:21:01,929 --> 00:21:04,890
I feel bad for you. I really do.
361
00:21:04,890 --> 00:21:06,683
Look-- "Help me," he's saying.
362
00:21:06,683 --> 00:21:09,520
"Can you do something to help me?"
Well, maybe I can.
363
00:21:09,520 --> 00:21:11,647
- Let's throw this one back in.
- You wanna throw it back in?
364
00:21:11,647 --> 00:21:13,857
We can-- No.
365
00:21:13,857 --> 00:21:14,858
You can try.
366
00:21:14,858 --> 00:21:16,193
- No problem.
- We can try.
367
00:21:16,193 --> 00:21:17,277
All right. Here we go.
368
00:21:17,277 --> 00:21:19,905
- There you go. You just--
- Here we go, little fella. Look at this.
369
00:21:19,905 --> 00:21:21,990
- You just drop it back in the sea.
- I just saved your life.
370
00:21:21,990 --> 00:21:23,700
Remember me, okay?
371
00:21:24,535 --> 00:21:26,286
Catch a couple of my movies.
372
00:21:27,162 --> 00:21:28,247
There you go.
373
00:21:28,247 --> 00:21:30,582
Well, then I think my job is done here.
374
00:21:30,582 --> 00:21:32,918
I've done all I can do to help you guys.
375
00:21:34,253 --> 00:21:37,589
I don't think people have
survived here for thousands of years
376
00:21:37,589 --> 00:21:40,342
by throwing fish back into the sea.
377
00:21:40,342 --> 00:21:43,679
Fishing here on the islands
is not what it was,
378
00:21:43,679 --> 00:21:45,848
you know, a hundred, 200 years ago.
379
00:21:47,516 --> 00:21:52,646
It's one of the reasons Andreas didn't
want his son going into this profession.
380
00:21:53,438 --> 00:21:54,982
I think it's fair to say
381
00:21:54,982 --> 00:21:58,944
I'm probably not cut out
for this element of island living,
382
00:21:58,944 --> 00:22:04,449
so I agreed to meet Yanni
for a beer, but only if it's on dry land.
383
00:22:05,367 --> 00:22:10,080
Mandrakia is one of the island's
most picturesque fishing villages,
384
00:22:10,080 --> 00:22:14,334
with boat houses called syrmata,
traditionally used by fishermen
385
00:22:14,334 --> 00:22:17,754
to store and maintain
their precious vessels.
386
00:22:22,301 --> 00:22:24,303
- Yamas.
- Exactly.
387
00:22:26,305 --> 00:22:29,099
Is this a line of work
that your family was in?
388
00:22:29,099 --> 00:22:30,601
The food business?
389
00:22:30,601 --> 00:22:35,022
My family used to own a taverna
back when I was, like, four years old.
390
00:22:35,022 --> 00:22:39,818
I spent my first years
growing up in the kitchen,
391
00:22:39,818 --> 00:22:43,071
in the taverna, around the tables,
with customers.
392
00:22:43,071 --> 00:22:43,989
Yeah?
393
00:22:43,989 --> 00:22:47,576
And I suppose that led me to
the point I am now, being a chef.
394
00:22:47,576 --> 00:22:51,955
And what does your dad think of
what you're doing now.
395
00:22:51,955 --> 00:22:54,541
I think he's thrilled
that I am in the business.
396
00:22:54,541 --> 00:22:56,460
What about your family? Are you...
397
00:22:57,044 --> 00:23:00,839
- in the family business, let's say?
- No.
398
00:23:00,839 --> 00:23:05,135
When I grew up, back in my hometown,
399
00:23:05,135 --> 00:23:07,930
nobody really went into acting.
400
00:23:07,930 --> 00:23:11,850
My dad, you know,
had to leave school at a--
401
00:23:11,850 --> 00:23:14,978
kind of an early age
when he was a teenager
402
00:23:14,978 --> 00:23:17,814
and go to work to help, you know...
403
00:23:17,814 --> 00:23:19,942
- Help out the family.
- ...help the family.
404
00:23:19,942 --> 00:23:22,528
So it was all about getting an education.
405
00:23:22,528 --> 00:23:26,907
So, what do I do? I don't take
the education thing too seriously.
406
00:23:28,242 --> 00:23:33,580
And I was kind of, you know-- I'm kind of
the big screw-up in the family.
407
00:23:33,580 --> 00:23:36,208
- You remember what the fisherman said?
- Yeah. He did not want his son...
408
00:23:36,208 --> 00:23:37,543
- Yeah. Exactly.
- ...to be a fisherman.
409
00:23:37,543 --> 00:23:43,090
And, you know, I don't think
my folks wanted me to go into acting.
410
00:23:44,383 --> 00:23:47,427
How you feeling that
your kids are in the same profession?
411
00:23:47,427 --> 00:23:51,974
It wasn't an easy thing
to accept readily because
412
00:23:51,974 --> 00:23:54,476
- it's one of the toughest professions...
- Yeah.
413
00:23:54,476 --> 00:23:55,978
...to make a living in.
414
00:23:55,978 --> 00:23:59,439
But they're both doing okay, you know?
415
00:23:59,439 --> 00:24:03,694
- I'm proud of both of them.
- Cheers for that.
416
00:24:03,694 --> 00:24:04,987
Yeah.
417
00:24:25,090 --> 00:24:29,469
After another restorative night,
I imagine, thanks to Hypnos,
418
00:24:29,469 --> 00:24:33,932
the Greek god of sleep,
I'm ready to continue my island education.
419
00:24:34,892 --> 00:24:37,644
I've been invited to a saint day festival,
420
00:24:37,644 --> 00:24:41,982
a religious celebration that's
etched in the family life here.
421
00:24:41,982 --> 00:24:44,401
But I can't arrive empty-handed.
422
00:24:44,985 --> 00:24:50,574
Well, we're going to an island
that Yanni told me about last night.
423
00:24:50,574 --> 00:24:54,536
It's an island that
apparently has excellent cheese
424
00:24:54,536 --> 00:24:57,122
because there's a lot of goats.
425
00:24:57,122 --> 00:25:01,126
I'm thinking I might
bring some cheese to the festival
426
00:25:01,126 --> 00:25:02,336
or maybe bring a goat.
427
00:25:03,295 --> 00:25:07,549
I'm not sure my Greek
is good enough to navigate a local ferry,
428
00:25:07,549 --> 00:25:10,886
so thankfully,
Eleni is here to accompany me.
429
00:25:10,886 --> 00:25:11,929
Eleni!
430
00:25:11,929 --> 00:25:14,431
We're off on another adventure.
431
00:25:14,431 --> 00:25:16,475
I think it's the perfect day
for some island-hopping.
432
00:25:16,475 --> 00:25:17,809
- What do you say?
- Let's do it.
433
00:25:17,809 --> 00:25:20,479
- Is this the ferry?
- No, we're gonna have
434
00:25:20,479 --> 00:25:22,064
something slightly bigger than that.
435
00:25:25,067 --> 00:25:29,988
Greek island-hopping
took off in the 1960s when jet-setters,
436
00:25:29,988 --> 00:25:35,452
hippies and budget travelers were drawn
to the hedonistic delights of the islands.
437
00:25:36,119 --> 00:25:38,747
These ferries won't run if it's too windy.
438
00:25:39,623 --> 00:25:43,877
But today, it's safe to travel.
At least, I'm trusting it is.
439
00:25:45,963 --> 00:25:47,256
Okay. There's your ticket.
440
00:25:47,256 --> 00:25:48,966
My ticket to ride.
441
00:25:50,676 --> 00:25:52,678
You wanna come sit
at the front so we get a good view?
442
00:25:57,182 --> 00:25:59,518
So, how have you been finding
your travels around Europe so far?
443
00:25:59,518 --> 00:26:02,020
Kind of a different
adventure in every place.
444
00:26:02,020 --> 00:26:03,689
If you love mosquitoes,
445
00:26:04,231 --> 00:26:07,109
- you'll love Sweden in June.
- Really?
446
00:26:07,109 --> 00:26:09,528
Well, Scotland
was a bit of a kick, you know.
447
00:26:09,528 --> 00:26:12,114
I had some family roots
going back in Scotland.
448
00:26:12,114 --> 00:26:13,323
That would be interesting.
449
00:26:13,949 --> 00:26:15,826
Saint-Tropez, quite beautiful.
450
00:26:15,826 --> 00:26:17,369
And it's Europe, you know?
451
00:26:17,369 --> 00:26:22,416
The reason I kind of love Europe
is because different culture,
452
00:26:22,416 --> 00:26:24,334
history, you've got Greece--
453
00:26:24,334 --> 00:26:28,338
It goes back thousands
and thousands-- 7,000, 8,000 years.
454
00:26:28,338 --> 00:26:30,424
We know that people
have been coming to Milos,
455
00:26:30,424 --> 00:26:33,969
for example,
from at least 11,000 years ago.
456
00:26:33,969 --> 00:26:36,763
So it's incredible to think
that 11,000 years ago,
457
00:26:36,763 --> 00:26:38,098
people first made these journeys.
458
00:26:39,766 --> 00:26:43,896
And now, I've done
the very same journey in just 30 minutes.
459
00:26:46,523 --> 00:26:51,820
Kimolos is even smaller than Milos,
with a population of 900.
460
00:26:53,197 --> 00:26:58,911
It's only accessible by boat, so it's
pretty untouched by the outside world.
461
00:27:04,458 --> 00:27:08,337
We're meeting Antonis,
a third-generation goat farmer...
462
00:27:08,337 --> 00:27:10,714
Oh, my.
463
00:27:11,298 --> 00:27:17,054
...who makes 15 different flavors
of cheese and farms over 500 goats.
464
00:27:18,305 --> 00:27:19,973
I'm feeling outnumbered.
465
00:27:19,973 --> 00:27:21,975
He's a rather friendly guy.
466
00:27:21,975 --> 00:27:23,977
He's chewing on my finger.
467
00:27:23,977 --> 00:27:26,438
What do you taste?
468
00:27:26,438 --> 00:27:28,106
Don't eat my pants!
469
00:27:28,941 --> 00:27:30,400
No. Don't eat the shirt.
470
00:27:30,400 --> 00:27:33,153
- You know, they're eating everything.
- Because it's feeding time.
471
00:27:33,153 --> 00:27:34,738
It is, but I only have one shirt.
472
00:27:35,322 --> 00:27:39,034
Goat farming is still
a crucial part of life on the islands,
473
00:27:39,034 --> 00:27:42,412
so Antonis wants to
teach me a thing or two.
474
00:27:45,666 --> 00:27:50,295
Antonis is asking
if you'd be willing to help out
475
00:27:50,295 --> 00:27:51,964
and maybe milk one of the animals?
476
00:27:51,964 --> 00:27:54,925
Sure. Listen, there's
a first time for everything.
477
00:28:05,269 --> 00:28:06,770
Are we milking them all?
478
00:28:09,690 --> 00:28:10,899
Oh, God.
479
00:28:13,151 --> 00:28:17,197
Antonis sells a celebrated
Greek cheese called manoura.
480
00:28:17,197 --> 00:28:21,660
And to make it, he needs goat's milk,
and lots of it.
481
00:28:21,660 --> 00:28:23,495
You pinch the top,
482
00:28:23,495 --> 00:28:25,831
and then you bring
one finger after the other down.
483
00:28:25,831 --> 00:28:28,250
Don't worry, she's in good hands.
484
00:28:28,250 --> 00:28:29,501
I'm kidding.
485
00:28:29,501 --> 00:28:31,420
Okay, yes!
486
00:28:36,967 --> 00:28:38,677
I think I'm getting the hang of it.
487
00:28:39,469 --> 00:28:42,472
Antonis is saying he's desperate
for people to come and work on the farm,
488
00:28:42,472 --> 00:28:43,932
so he's...
489
00:28:43,932 --> 00:28:45,559
You just got a job offer.
490
00:28:46,185 --> 00:28:47,769
When do I start work?
491
00:28:50,314 --> 00:28:51,315
From yesterday.
492
00:28:51,315 --> 00:28:52,524
From yesterday?
493
00:28:52,524 --> 00:28:54,735
I think I've just found
a new vocation here.
494
00:28:54,735 --> 00:28:58,030
Goat herding. Boy,
I'll tell ya, it's a tough profession.
495
00:28:58,030 --> 00:29:02,826
My personal technique
in milking goats would be to grab
496
00:29:02,826 --> 00:29:05,495
and then work your fingers down.
497
00:29:07,247 --> 00:29:08,248
Down.
498
00:29:08,874 --> 00:29:13,295
And then you get a nice squirt.
499
00:29:14,588 --> 00:29:15,672
Right? Coming out.
500
00:29:15,672 --> 00:29:17,883
Let's go. And I'll take this with me.
501
00:29:17,883 --> 00:29:18,967
All right?
502
00:29:19,676 --> 00:29:22,221
"You can put it in your coffee," he said.
503
00:29:22,221 --> 00:29:24,890
All right, that's what I call a zinger.
504
00:29:25,557 --> 00:29:28,310
I've pretty much nailed milking goats,
505
00:29:28,310 --> 00:29:31,313
so we've come to Antonis's family shop
506
00:29:31,313 --> 00:29:34,608
to get some manoura
for the saint day festival.
507
00:29:36,777 --> 00:29:38,278
So this is their cheese shop.
508
00:29:38,278 --> 00:29:39,363
Look at the photograph.
509
00:29:39,363 --> 00:29:42,282
That's actually the grandfather
that taught Antonis...
510
00:29:42,282 --> 00:29:44,660
- That's the grandfather.
- ...everything that he knows.
511
00:29:45,702 --> 00:29:47,371
- And this is the father.
- Wow.
512
00:29:47,371 --> 00:29:48,956
Three generations right here.
513
00:29:48,956 --> 00:29:50,707
You didn't even have to tell me...
514
00:29:51,625 --> 00:29:52,751
because I can see...
515
00:29:53,460 --> 00:29:54,753
The face.
516
00:29:55,546 --> 00:29:56,713
Right here.
517
00:29:56,713 --> 00:29:58,924
You think your son has done a good job?
518
00:30:03,929 --> 00:30:05,013
He said he's very happy
519
00:30:05,013 --> 00:30:09,268
because he actually took the business
forward because he loved it.
520
00:30:09,268 --> 00:30:12,729
I have a lot of respect for Antonis.
521
00:30:12,729 --> 00:30:16,900
Family businesses get passed on
from generation to generation.
522
00:30:16,900 --> 00:30:18,819
This is the common thread here.
523
00:30:18,819 --> 00:30:19,945
Thank you, Antonis.
524
00:30:20,571 --> 00:30:22,990
Yes. Lovely meeting you. Good luck.
525
00:30:22,990 --> 00:30:28,328
I think it happens more in Europe,
more than back home in North America.
526
00:30:28,328 --> 00:30:31,081
I think it's great if kids
can work with their dads.
527
00:30:31,081 --> 00:30:32,916
I mean, I did it with my son.
528
00:30:32,916 --> 00:30:35,377
It's a very rewarding experience.
529
00:30:35,961 --> 00:30:39,423
With some of the finest
goat's cheese money can buy,
530
00:30:39,423 --> 00:30:42,676
I'm off to get ready
for my final night on the island.
531
00:30:51,685 --> 00:30:54,771
The saint day festival
is in the south of Milos
532
00:30:54,771 --> 00:30:57,357
at the Church of the Holy Cross.
533
00:30:58,317 --> 00:31:01,653
I've been invited to
a celebration of Saint Helen,
534
00:31:01,653 --> 00:31:05,240
an annual event
in the Greek Orthodox calendar
535
00:31:05,240 --> 00:31:09,161
involving prayers,
candles and a big old party.
536
00:31:17,503 --> 00:31:19,838
It doesn't get more local than this.
537
00:31:20,422 --> 00:31:22,257
Everybody knows everybody.
538
00:31:31,225 --> 00:31:33,227
- We have a gift for you.
- Gift for me?
539
00:31:33,227 --> 00:31:34,311
Yes.
540
00:31:35,103 --> 00:31:37,731
That's the heart and soul of the island.
541
00:31:37,731 --> 00:31:38,774
Octopus?
542
00:31:44,238 --> 00:31:45,822
You're in an island.
543
00:31:49,243 --> 00:31:50,577
It's your last night here,
544
00:31:50,577 --> 00:31:53,413
and a way to really understand
the culture is also through the food.
545
00:31:53,413 --> 00:31:55,332
It looks like a hot dog.
546
00:31:55,916 --> 00:31:58,210
I'm not sure eating octopus
547
00:31:58,210 --> 00:32:01,713
will help me reach
the state of kefi Yannis described,
548
00:32:01,713 --> 00:32:04,341
but when in Greece...
549
00:32:11,849 --> 00:32:13,225
- He's still--
- Good.
550
00:32:13,225 --> 00:32:14,309
Yeah.
551
00:32:15,018 --> 00:32:16,270
Yes.
552
00:32:20,315 --> 00:32:22,150
- Very good.
- Very nice.
553
00:32:29,324 --> 00:32:31,493
I brought someone for you to meet.
554
00:32:31,493 --> 00:32:34,329
- Eugene. Father...
- Say hello to Father...
555
00:32:34,329 --> 00:32:36,206
- How are you?
- So nice to meet you.
556
00:32:36,206 --> 00:32:38,375
I am fine, thank you.
557
00:32:39,126 --> 00:32:42,296
Now I really
feel like I'm in with the locals.
558
00:32:43,422 --> 00:32:46,383
- You like Milos? No.
- I love Milos.
559
00:32:46,383 --> 00:32:48,302
It's always good to have a priest
with a sense of humor.
560
00:32:50,429 --> 00:32:52,764
This is a lovely little church.
561
00:32:52,764 --> 00:32:54,391
Would you like to have a look inside?
562
00:32:54,391 --> 00:32:55,309
Yeah.
563
00:32:55,309 --> 00:32:56,602
Okay. Let's go together.
564
00:33:01,023 --> 00:33:03,650
So he said, "This is
a spiritual experience for you."
565
00:33:03,650 --> 00:33:04,693
Monk.
566
00:33:04,693 --> 00:33:06,195
- Okay.
- Like a monk.
567
00:33:07,154 --> 00:33:08,906
So follow me. Let's have a quick look.
568
00:33:10,949 --> 00:33:15,120
So once you go in,
people take a candle, they light it,
569
00:33:15,120 --> 00:33:19,291
and the idea is that the smoke from the
flame is your prayers going up to heaven.
570
00:33:19,291 --> 00:33:20,375
Yeah?
571
00:33:33,639 --> 00:33:36,266
Three candles for my family.
572
00:33:38,060 --> 00:33:41,355
And I think even if you're
not necessarily religious,
573
00:33:41,355 --> 00:33:44,149
there's something quite spiritual
about coming to a place like this.
574
00:33:44,149 --> 00:33:46,443
Well, I think the message
about the candles
575
00:33:46,944 --> 00:33:49,154
works for just about anybody,
576
00:33:49,154 --> 00:33:50,697
- doesn't it?
- Exactly.
577
00:34:00,624 --> 00:34:06,338
Well, it was absolutely
a delightful evening at the festival.
578
00:34:06,964 --> 00:34:12,511
Well, I embrace the kefi philosophy,
and you just felt it tonight.
579
00:34:13,971 --> 00:34:19,518
Friends and family coming together.
It's kind of a love fest.
580
00:34:20,561 --> 00:34:26,275
I think Milos, to me, is caring about
your neighbors, lending a helping hand,
581
00:34:26,275 --> 00:34:30,571
work that has been in your family
for generations and generations,
582
00:34:30,571 --> 00:34:32,947
passing it down from father to son.
583
00:34:35,117 --> 00:34:40,289
It's clear to me that Greeks put
family at the heart of everything they do,
584
00:34:40,289 --> 00:34:45,043
and it plays a big role
in making life on the island possible.
585
00:34:45,043 --> 00:34:48,589
At its best, family keeps you
on the right track
586
00:34:48,589 --> 00:34:51,175
to help you navigate the world around you.
587
00:34:51,884 --> 00:34:55,094
I came to Greece expecting
to look to the past,
588
00:34:55,094 --> 00:34:57,556
but actually, Milos has reminded me
589
00:34:57,556 --> 00:35:02,519
to appreciate what we have
right now with those closest to us.
590
00:35:03,937 --> 00:35:04,938
Bravo!
591
00:35:08,483 --> 00:35:09,818
Next time...
592
00:35:09,818 --> 00:35:12,905
It's my final European destination.
593
00:35:12,905 --> 00:35:13,989
Spain.
594
00:35:13,989 --> 00:35:15,365
Let's flamenco.
595
00:35:16,074 --> 00:35:17,743
- The king suite.
- It'll do.
596
00:35:19,620 --> 00:35:22,497
It's literally
the biggest day of the year.
597
00:35:22,497 --> 00:35:23,832
This is mad.
598
00:35:24,458 --> 00:35:25,667
That's the path?
599
00:35:25,667 --> 00:35:28,545
The first creak I hear, I'm heading back.
600
00:35:28,545 --> 00:35:30,005
Let's go!
601
00:35:30,672 --> 00:35:31,840
{\an8}That was fun.