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1937 Paris is the home of Haute Couture
where the greatest designers
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00:00:04,880 --> 00:00:07,280
are defining fashion
for the rest of the world.
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00:00:07,360 --> 00:00:10,400
Cristóbal, son of a fisherman
and a seamstress from Getaria,
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00:00:10,480 --> 00:00:14,400
moved here with a dream: to become one
of the great masters of Haute Couture.
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00:00:14,480 --> 00:00:16,360
This series is inspired by his story.
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(SOFT MUSIC PLAYS)
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(PRIEST TALKING IN FRENCH)
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COCO CHANEL'S FUNERAL
PARIS, JANUARY 1971
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00:01:29,120 --> 00:01:30,800
(DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS)
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(PRIEST CONTINUES TALKING)
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00:02:20,120 --> 00:02:24,240
(BELLS RING)
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00:02:24,320 --> 00:02:27,760
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
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00:02:40,160 --> 00:02:42,160
- MAN: A photo?
- RAMÓN: Don't, please.
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00:02:42,240 --> 00:02:43,720
Monsieur Balenciaga.
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(IN SPANISH) I'm glad to see you.
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00:02:46,920 --> 00:02:47,920
Hello.
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PRUDENCE: Although many doubted you,
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I knew you wouldn't skip it.
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Why would I skip it?
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After the disagreement
between you and Chanel...
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(IN FRENCH) Stop, Coco.
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PRUDENCE:
Fashion is no longer what it used to be.
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All the great ones are leaving us.
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00:03:07,640 --> 00:03:10,200
Don't you think it's time for you to talk?
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00:03:12,360 --> 00:03:15,080
CRISTÓBAL: I already gave Paris Match
an interview when I retired.
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PRUDENCE:
Well, yes, but it was very brief.
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You've been retired for three years,
so you can talk with no burden.
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CRISTÓBAL:
No, thank you. Don't insist, please.
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I already said so last time.
If you'll excuse me.
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Oh, come on, Mr. Balenciaga.
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Let us glimpse a little beyond the mystery
that surrounds you.
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If you change your mind.
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00:04:01,760 --> 00:04:03,400
I think I'm going to say yes.
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00:04:03,960 --> 00:04:05,480
You're still thinking about that?
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What do you think?
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I already told you, I agree.
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Prudence Glynn
is a very reputable journalist in England.
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No! I won't do it.
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(SIGHS)
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CRISTÓBAL'S IGELDO HOUSE
SAN SEBASTIÁN, JUNE 1971
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00:04:59,000 --> 00:05:00,040
CRISTÓBAL: Good afternoon.
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00:05:00,120 --> 00:05:01,840
- RAMÓN (IN ENGLISH): Hello.
- PRUDENCE: Hi.
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00:05:11,480 --> 00:05:14,320
PRUDENCE (IN SPANISH):
First of all, I'd like to thank you
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00:05:14,400 --> 00:05:17,560
for giving me the opportunity
to interview you.
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00:05:18,080 --> 00:05:22,960
To be honest, I thought
you weren't going to accept my request.
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00:05:27,320 --> 00:05:30,400
Oh... No, no. No recordings, please.
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00:05:30,480 --> 00:05:33,560
It'll be for personal use,
it won't be featured anywhere.
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I'd rather not. I don't like
having my voice recorded.
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00:05:36,560 --> 00:05:38,760
Why? It would be for personal use only.
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00:05:38,840 --> 00:05:41,600
Yes, but I'd know
there's a recording of my voice
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00:05:41,680 --> 00:05:43,240
somewhere in the world, and...
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00:05:43,320 --> 00:05:47,680
The thing is,
I don't want to make any mistakes
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00:05:47,760 --> 00:05:50,120
and twist your words.
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00:05:52,160 --> 00:05:55,160
I promise you, I'll destroy it later.
55
00:06:00,160 --> 00:06:05,200
Very well. But, please,
destroy it after transcribing it.
56
00:06:05,280 --> 00:06:06,280
Okay.
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00:06:10,600 --> 00:06:13,280
Well... go ahead.
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00:06:13,360 --> 00:06:16,760
I've never done this before,
I don't know what you want me to say.
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00:06:16,840 --> 00:06:21,680
Actually, I'm interested
in your beginnings in Paris.
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FIRST COLLECTION SHOWCASE
PARIS, AUGUST 1937
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00:06:24,800 --> 00:06:28,240
PRUDENCE: You arrived after leaving behind
the Civil War in Spain, right?
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00:06:30,400 --> 00:06:31,960
The Civil War.
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00:06:33,680 --> 00:06:35,280
Let's see if I remember...
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00:06:36,120 --> 00:06:41,280
Wladzio and I arrived in Paris
in January 1937,
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00:06:41,880 --> 00:06:44,960
and by the start of August,
we were already showcasing
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our first haute couture collection.
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00:06:47,680 --> 00:06:49,240
Everything was too fast.
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- (IN FRENCH) Excuse me. Thank you.
- Careful!
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00:07:01,480 --> 00:07:04,520
- The earrings?
- With that necklace.
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00:07:05,760 --> 00:07:07,880
Could you come, please?
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00:07:08,400 --> 00:07:10,560
- Colette.
- I'm coming!
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Quickly, Colette.
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- Go.
- WOMAN: Colette, now.
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(ATOMIZER SPRITZING)
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CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH):
It all happened so quickly.
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We should have worked more
with the models.
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(IN FRENCH) Come on, quickly.
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CRISTÓBAL:
Suzanne, separate the dresses
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16, 18, 36, 37,
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00:07:41,640 --> 00:07:44,000
53, 109.
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We have to finish them up.
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CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH):
The show starts in an hour.
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Relax.
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(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
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FLORETTE (IN FRENCH): Mrs. Ballard,
how nice to see you.
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00:08:03,800 --> 00:08:07,200
It is an honor that Vogue
is interested in our first showcase.
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00:08:07,280 --> 00:08:08,400
My pleasure.
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FLORETTE: Welcome.
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It's an evening dress, it ends the show.
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00:08:22,840 --> 00:08:25,960
Yes, but I need your approval.
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Walk, please.
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(SIGHS)
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Come close.
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00:08:34,960 --> 00:08:36,080
Cristóbal, don't...
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00:08:38,000 --> 00:08:39,120
CRISTÓBAL: It's crooked.
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00:08:39,760 --> 00:08:41,840
Look at this fold, here.
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00:08:41,920 --> 00:08:43,400
We have to sew it again.
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00:08:45,560 --> 00:08:47,280
(GRUNTS)
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00:08:48,000 --> 00:08:49,480
(IN SPANISH) We don't have time.
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- We don't.
- TAILOR (IN FRENCH) Come.
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(IN SPANISH) This happens when you
leave things for the last minute.
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Sew it again.
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00:08:56,480 --> 00:08:58,376
WLADZIO: But Cristóbal,
the sleeve was all right.
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00:08:58,400 --> 00:09:02,600
FLORETTE (IN FRENCH): Ladies, gentlemen,
the showcase is about to begin.
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00:09:04,640 --> 00:09:06,120
(COUGHS)
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00:09:12,800 --> 00:09:15,280
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
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(IN FRENCH) Number one.
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00:09:22,960 --> 00:09:24,440
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
109
00:09:32,040 --> 00:09:33,400
(IN FRENCH) Number two.
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00:09:33,480 --> 00:09:34,720
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
111
00:09:36,760 --> 00:09:37,880
(IN FRENCH) Number three.
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00:09:37,960 --> 00:09:39,040
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
113
00:09:45,960 --> 00:09:47,160
(IN FRENCH) Number four.
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00:09:47,240 --> 00:09:48,400
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
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00:09:53,200 --> 00:09:54,720
(IN FRENCH) Number 107.
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00:09:54,800 --> 00:09:56,800
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
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00:10:05,680 --> 00:10:07,080
CRISTÓBAL (IN FRENCH): So?
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I couldn't say.
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00:10:09,080 --> 00:10:11,600
They're very serious,
and a gentleman left.
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00:10:18,800 --> 00:10:21,040
You see this? It's all wrong.
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00:10:22,320 --> 00:10:23,680
The sleeves are identical.
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- No, they aren't.
- (IN FRENCH) Number 108.
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00:10:26,040 --> 00:10:27,360
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
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(IN FRENCH)
There's a fold here, understand?
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I'll handle it, go.
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Cristóbal.
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There's no time.
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The show is ending. It's now or never.
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(BREATHES DEEPLY)
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Ready? Breathe...
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(APPLAUSE)
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WLADZIO (IN SPANISH):
Well, looks like they liked it.
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00:11:03,040 --> 00:11:04,560
Hmm. Yeah.
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Come on, go talk to people.
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00:11:09,040 --> 00:11:10,320
I'm not coming out.
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WLADZIO (IN FRENCH):
Thank you for coming, Mrs. Ballard.
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00:11:21,920 --> 00:11:25,520
Mr. D'Attainville,
everything looks in place.
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00:11:25,600 --> 00:11:27,640
I heard you handled the decorations.
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00:11:27,720 --> 00:11:29,800
- Yes, do you like it?
- Very much.
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00:11:30,520 --> 00:11:32,680
And what do you think of the collection?
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00:11:34,000 --> 00:11:35,000
Well...
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00:11:36,680 --> 00:11:38,920
take it as constructive criticism.
143
00:11:39,720 --> 00:11:42,000
I don't want to sound arrogant,
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but I think it lacks some personality.
145
00:11:47,040 --> 00:11:48,600
- Personality?
- Yes.
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00:11:48,960 --> 00:11:51,800
Yes, maybe I expected too much.
147
00:11:51,880 --> 00:11:55,800
This is Paris, it's hard to stand out,
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00:11:55,880 --> 00:11:57,880
- but you need...
- BIZKARRONDO AND VIRGILIA: Hi.
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00:12:00,680 --> 00:12:03,560
May I introduce you
to Nicolás Bizkarrondo.
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00:12:03,640 --> 00:12:07,920
- Nice to meet you.
- And his wife, Virgilia Mendizábal.
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00:12:08,320 --> 00:12:11,360
- Main shareholders of the Maison.
- Congratulations.
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00:12:11,480 --> 00:12:12,480
A great collection.
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00:12:13,280 --> 00:12:15,920
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
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00:12:17,680 --> 00:12:20,880
WLADZIO (IN SPANISH):
Do you think we've been reckless
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00:12:20,960 --> 00:12:23,320
by involving ourselves
with Virgilia and Nicolás?
156
00:12:27,160 --> 00:12:28,240
CRISTÓBAL: Why?
157
00:12:30,040 --> 00:12:31,040
I don't know...
158
00:12:32,520 --> 00:12:35,000
I'm not sure they're the right associates.
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00:12:36,760 --> 00:12:38,840
Don't misunderstand, I like them...
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00:12:39,280 --> 00:12:42,320
but things work differently here.
161
00:12:43,240 --> 00:12:45,480
Everything about fashion
is more sophisticated.
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00:12:45,920 --> 00:12:48,440
But I'd rather surround myself
with people I agree with
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00:12:48,520 --> 00:12:50,720
than with "sophisticated" people.
What can I say?
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00:12:52,000 --> 00:12:54,880
I'm just saying, if we had waited
a bit in Paris,
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00:12:54,960 --> 00:12:59,200
surely we would have found
someone with experience and contacts.
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00:12:59,280 --> 00:13:01,680
Someone who could have added
to the company,
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00:13:01,760 --> 00:13:03,000
beyond their money.
168
00:13:03,080 --> 00:13:04,960
What if that someone never appears?
169
00:13:05,040 --> 00:13:07,400
I have no doubt, they would appear.
170
00:13:07,880 --> 00:13:10,400
There isn't that much talent
in high fashion.
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00:13:10,480 --> 00:13:12,240
And you have it, obviously.
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00:13:18,320 --> 00:13:19,320
(GLASS CLATTERS SOFTLY)
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00:13:19,720 --> 00:13:21,320
(DEEP SIGH)
174
00:13:22,560 --> 00:13:23,920
I wish I were like you.
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00:13:26,880 --> 00:13:28,040
What do you mean?
176
00:13:29,920 --> 00:13:30,920
Like this.
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00:13:32,520 --> 00:13:33,600
So confident.
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00:13:36,000 --> 00:13:37,960
I can't permit a lack of confidence.
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00:13:40,840 --> 00:13:41,840
(LAUGHS)
180
00:13:44,480 --> 00:13:47,040
(TEASINGLY) "Hello, Nicolás. How are you?"
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00:13:47,120 --> 00:13:49,240
(LAUGHTER)
182
00:13:50,600 --> 00:13:53,080
- I don't talk like that.
- You do!
183
00:13:53,160 --> 00:13:54,840
- No!
- When you're with Bizkarrondo,
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00:13:54,920 --> 00:13:57,080
you lower your voice
as if you were manlier.
185
00:13:57,160 --> 00:13:59,240
- That's not true!
- (LAUGHTER)
186
00:13:59,320 --> 00:14:02,960
You do, and not just with Bizkarrondo,
you do it with others too.
187
00:14:04,760 --> 00:14:06,640
I didn't know.
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00:14:06,720 --> 00:14:07,800
Well, you do.
189
00:14:09,080 --> 00:14:13,680
You can't see your own mannerisms either.
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00:14:15,920 --> 00:14:17,000
What mannerisms?
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00:14:19,320 --> 00:14:20,640
Nothing important.
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00:14:27,120 --> 00:14:29,760
(MOANING)
193
00:14:34,520 --> 00:14:35,640
RAMÓN: Cristóbal...
194
00:14:39,640 --> 00:14:40,640
Cristóbal?
195
00:14:42,560 --> 00:14:43,560
Sorry.
196
00:14:45,720 --> 00:14:48,280
I... I lost track of what I was saying.
197
00:14:48,360 --> 00:14:51,240
You were telling me
about your business partner.
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00:14:51,320 --> 00:14:54,680
Yes... Nicolás Bizkarrondo.
199
00:14:57,480 --> 00:15:01,600
Nicolás was a republican engineer
200
00:15:01,680 --> 00:15:05,520
who had openly spoken against Franco.
201
00:15:08,720 --> 00:15:14,080
He and his wife, Virgilia Mendizábal,
had to go into exile in Paris,
202
00:15:14,160 --> 00:15:17,440
and decided to invest in the Maison.
203
00:15:21,040 --> 00:15:23,720
They both were a great support.
204
00:15:25,680 --> 00:15:27,160
BIZKARRONDO: Let's toast to the show.
205
00:15:27,200 --> 00:15:28,480
It went very well.
206
00:15:29,480 --> 00:15:33,640
(SINGING IN BASQUE)
♪ Clink, clink, clink ♪
207
00:15:33,720 --> 00:15:37,360
♪ The beautiful sound ♪
208
00:15:37,440 --> 00:15:39,960
♪ Of money... ♪
209
00:15:40,040 --> 00:15:42,560
(IN SPANISH) Nicolás,
don't force the enthusiasm.
210
00:15:42,640 --> 00:15:44,120
BIZKARRONDO: People clapped happily.
211
00:15:44,200 --> 00:15:47,160
And we've been promised good reviews,
there's no reason to be sad.
212
00:15:47,240 --> 00:15:48,680
Careful, Nicolás.
213
00:15:49,480 --> 00:15:51,520
BIZKARRONDO:
That's what Ballard told you, right?
214
00:15:51,600 --> 00:15:55,080
Yes, yes. But what they tell you
to your face is one thing,
215
00:15:55,160 --> 00:15:57,000
and what they later write is another.
216
00:15:57,080 --> 00:15:58,600
Until I see it published...
217
00:15:58,680 --> 00:16:00,960
BIZKARRONDO: You know this world
better than I do.
218
00:16:01,040 --> 00:16:02,520
Can you believe it?
219
00:16:02,600 --> 00:16:06,240
Almost 50 years old,
and now I have to learn like a kid.
220
00:16:06,320 --> 00:16:08,000
That's how exile works.
221
00:16:08,080 --> 00:16:09,880
We're beginners, but we're not.
222
00:16:10,440 --> 00:16:13,200
In a country where people eat at 12:30.
223
00:16:13,320 --> 00:16:14,760
(LAUGHTER)
224
00:16:14,840 --> 00:16:16,960
Don't get all nostalgic again.
225
00:16:17,040 --> 00:16:20,560
I left Paris to be in San Sebastián
for 12 years,
226
00:16:20,640 --> 00:16:21,840
and I didn't complain once.
227
00:16:21,920 --> 00:16:23,840
You spoke about Paris all day long.
228
00:16:23,920 --> 00:16:26,760
Besides, it's not the same,
there was no war in France.
229
00:16:26,840 --> 00:16:28,440
BIZKARRONDO: Wladzio is right.
230
00:16:28,520 --> 00:16:30,760
We're here now,
so we have to move forward.
231
00:16:30,840 --> 00:16:32,400
Besides, I'm eager to learn.
232
00:16:32,920 --> 00:16:36,280
I know all about business,
but I admit that all this is new for me.
233
00:16:37,120 --> 00:16:38,920
- I'm here for Virgilia.
- Hey.
234
00:16:39,000 --> 00:16:41,776
You're here because you want to,
you'll be responsible if it goes wrong.
235
00:16:41,800 --> 00:16:42,840
(LAUGHTER)
236
00:16:42,920 --> 00:16:46,880
But I'll be here by your side.
And if you need my help, ask for it.
237
00:16:46,960 --> 00:16:48,360
Don't hesitate.
238
00:16:48,840 --> 00:16:50,080
(IN BASQUE) Thank you, Nicolás.
239
00:16:56,600 --> 00:16:59,200
(IN SPANISH)
I'd never heard of them before.
240
00:16:59,280 --> 00:17:02,640
Yes, well, because things
didn't end too well
241
00:17:02,720 --> 00:17:03,840
between us.
242
00:17:05,040 --> 00:17:06,040
They didn't?
243
00:17:07,920 --> 00:17:09,720
I see you have papers from those days.
244
00:17:09,800 --> 00:17:10,920
Oh, yes.
245
00:17:11,000 --> 00:17:13,800
They're reviews for the first collection.
246
00:17:14,680 --> 00:17:16,600
- Do you mind if I read them?
- No.
247
00:17:20,440 --> 00:17:22,880
"Balenciaga succeeds, thanks to..."
248
00:17:22,960 --> 00:17:25,840
FLORETTE (IN FRENCH):
"...the simplicity of his lines
249
00:17:25,920 --> 00:17:28,880
and the absence of superficial elements."
250
00:17:31,080 --> 00:17:33,800
Women's Wear Daily, on the cover.
251
00:17:35,360 --> 00:17:38,360
(IN SPANISH) "Balenciago,"
they changed your name.
252
00:17:38,440 --> 00:17:39,760
Yes, I remember.
253
00:17:39,840 --> 00:17:41,040
PRUDENCE: I'll keep reading.
254
00:17:41,120 --> 00:17:42,560
(IN FRENCH) They changed your name.
255
00:17:42,640 --> 00:17:45,400
Did they really spell it
like "Balenciago"?
256
00:17:48,680 --> 00:17:53,880
"Elegant dresses
with sophisticated simplicity.
257
00:17:54,600 --> 00:17:59,880
The birds are a fun feature
on the evening hats.
258
00:18:00,440 --> 00:18:02,080
A model..."
259
00:18:02,160 --> 00:18:05,560
(IN SPANISH) "...a model was wearing
some sort of dove
260
00:18:05,640 --> 00:18:06,960
on her head."
261
00:18:08,280 --> 00:18:11,280
(IN FRENCH) It's great, isn't it?
Your first review, and it's on the cover.
262
00:18:11,360 --> 00:18:14,280
"Sophisticated simplicity..."
263
00:18:14,360 --> 00:18:15,640
(IN SPANISH) Is that good?
264
00:18:15,720 --> 00:18:17,440
That's what you've always defended.
265
00:18:17,520 --> 00:18:19,680
Please, Wladzio!
If you really like a collection,
266
00:18:19,760 --> 00:18:21,280
you say it, plain and simple...
267
00:18:21,360 --> 00:18:25,720
(IN FRENCH) "Prodigious,"
"marvelous," "great," "extraordinary."
268
00:18:25,800 --> 00:18:27,280
(IN SPANISH) Or something like that.
269
00:18:27,360 --> 00:18:29,720
I think the reviews
have been mostly positive.
270
00:18:29,800 --> 00:18:31,680
On a scale of one to ten, it's a six.
271
00:18:31,760 --> 00:18:35,440
And no one will pay the amount we ask
to wear a six. That's...
272
00:18:35,520 --> 00:18:37,120
Don't be impatient, Cristóbal.
273
00:18:38,080 --> 00:18:39,440
It's not a bad start.
274
00:18:40,680 --> 00:18:43,520
Not for you, of course.
The hats stand out, and you designed them.
275
00:18:44,080 --> 00:18:45,120
Huh?
276
00:18:51,840 --> 00:18:55,240
FLORETTE (IN FRENCH): Mrs. de Belleville,
I'm Mrs. Chelot.
277
00:18:59,160 --> 00:19:01,280
CRISTÓBAL: No, no, diagonally.
278
00:19:01,880 --> 00:19:02,920
TAILOR: Yes.
279
00:19:12,560 --> 00:19:14,240
No, not like this.
280
00:19:14,320 --> 00:19:16,000
Like this, look.
281
00:19:16,640 --> 00:19:18,800
Don't stab the pins so deep.
282
00:19:19,400 --> 00:19:21,760
Just the tip is enough,
283
00:19:23,160 --> 00:19:25,640
and it'll be easier to remove them.
284
00:19:27,520 --> 00:19:29,440
And you put them in diagonally...
285
00:19:30,520 --> 00:19:33,080
so as to not disturb
the shape of the fabric.
286
00:19:34,000 --> 00:19:35,000
Yes.
287
00:19:35,480 --> 00:19:37,320
As if I were a beginner.
288
00:19:40,240 --> 00:19:41,600
(IN SPANISH) What do you think?
289
00:19:42,240 --> 00:19:43,240
It could be better.
290
00:19:43,920 --> 00:19:46,320
Well, of course it could,
it's just a test.
291
00:19:47,680 --> 00:19:48,720
It'll be okay.
292
00:19:48,800 --> 00:19:51,920
Yes, I know it will be fine,
and the collection will be impeccable.
293
00:19:52,000 --> 00:19:55,120
But it reminds me of Vionnet.
294
00:19:55,200 --> 00:19:58,080
If it looks like Vionnet,
it's a compliment.
295
00:19:58,160 --> 00:20:01,880
Yes, but if people want a Vionnet,
they'll get a Vionnet.
296
00:20:02,440 --> 00:20:04,800
What do you...?
What do you think could be changed?
297
00:20:08,320 --> 00:20:11,600
I've heard people say
that I paraded into Paris,
298
00:20:11,680 --> 00:20:13,040
that I succeeded immediately.
299
00:20:13,480 --> 00:20:17,760
And... looking back, I can't complain.
300
00:20:20,360 --> 00:20:23,200
But then, those weeks...
301
00:20:23,280 --> 00:20:25,840
after the showcase
for the first collection...
302
00:20:27,240 --> 00:20:29,560
They were full of uncertainty.
303
00:20:33,000 --> 00:20:34,520
(IN FRENCH) Mrs. Geneive?
304
00:20:35,200 --> 00:20:37,640
It's Mrs. Chelot,
from the Marie-Henriette House.
305
00:20:38,040 --> 00:20:39,680
You remember me, right?
306
00:20:39,760 --> 00:20:42,280
As soon as I saw the collection,
I thought of you.
307
00:20:42,360 --> 00:20:43,760
Spanish.
308
00:20:45,160 --> 00:20:47,720
It fits your style perfectly.
309
00:20:48,680 --> 00:20:51,200
Balenciaga... Let me read you the reviews.
310
00:20:52,760 --> 00:20:55,560
Balenciaga, with an "A."
311
00:20:56,160 --> 00:20:57,200
That's right.
312
00:21:00,760 --> 00:21:02,240
Only two commissions?
313
00:21:02,800 --> 00:21:05,040
And the one from Wladzio's mother.
314
00:21:11,320 --> 00:21:13,096
CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH):
A showcase or a party?
315
00:21:13,120 --> 00:21:15,840
Looks like it'll be a party
with a showcase
316
00:21:15,920 --> 00:21:19,320
for some pieces from her new collection
for her friends.
317
00:21:19,400 --> 00:21:21,320
So it's a party to pat her own back.
318
00:21:21,920 --> 00:21:23,840
If I go, it'll be for her.
319
00:21:23,920 --> 00:21:24,920
CHANEL'S PARTY
320
00:21:25,000 --> 00:21:27,040
But these engagements bore me to death.
321
00:21:27,640 --> 00:21:28,680
(DOORBELL RINGS)
322
00:21:28,760 --> 00:21:32,640
- WLADZIO (IN FRENCH): My mother.
- Isabelle, so nice to see you.
323
00:21:32,720 --> 00:21:34,080
- How are you?
- I'm well.
324
00:21:34,160 --> 00:21:35,840
- Nervous?
- No.
325
00:21:35,920 --> 00:21:37,480
Talk to people today.
326
00:21:37,560 --> 00:21:40,640
Be kind and interesting,
gain people's love.
327
00:21:41,440 --> 00:21:45,000
It'll be packed with potential clients.
328
00:21:46,040 --> 00:21:48,760
- You look splendid, Mom.
- I agree.
329
00:21:49,480 --> 00:21:50,880
It's so flattering on me,
330
00:21:52,080 --> 00:21:53,600
and it'll be great publicity.
331
00:21:54,760 --> 00:21:56,200
(MUSIC PLAYING)
332
00:22:06,600 --> 00:22:09,680
I'm going to show this Balenciaga around.
333
00:22:09,760 --> 00:22:11,280
See you, darlings.
334
00:22:11,360 --> 00:22:12,440
Of course.
335
00:22:13,640 --> 00:22:15,360
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
336
00:22:26,760 --> 00:22:27,760
(COUGHS)
337
00:22:31,200 --> 00:22:34,600
I forgot my glasses, I can't see a thing.
338
00:22:35,160 --> 00:22:37,760
(SIGHS)
339
00:22:43,240 --> 00:22:46,880
Still, it's so obvious
that they're Chanel.
340
00:22:50,800 --> 00:22:53,080
I'd recognize them even if I was blind.
341
00:23:04,480 --> 00:23:07,280
- MAN: Balenciaga, is it Spanish?
- Yes.
342
00:23:07,360 --> 00:23:10,400
MAN: How are you dealing
with the Civil War? It must be horrible.
343
00:23:10,480 --> 00:23:13,800
Yes, terrible. Very tough.
344
00:23:14,400 --> 00:23:17,080
You fled from the war to...?
345
00:23:17,160 --> 00:23:20,880
I visited the Spanish pavilion
in the universal exhibition,
346
00:23:21,320 --> 00:23:24,320
and Picasso's painting is amazing.
347
00:23:24,400 --> 00:23:27,200
- It's called "Guernica," isn't it?
- Yes.
348
00:23:27,280 --> 00:23:29,240
Like the bombed village.
349
00:23:29,320 --> 00:23:31,960
- They bombed a village?
- Yes.
350
00:23:32,400 --> 00:23:35,080
I didn't know Picasso's inspiration...
351
00:23:35,160 --> 00:23:37,080
MAN: Spain's current situation...
352
00:23:37,160 --> 00:23:40,360
It's so sad. Such a fascinating country.
353
00:23:40,440 --> 00:23:44,040
WOMAN: Yes, it is an exciting country,
I was there and...
354
00:23:44,120 --> 00:23:45,880
(IN SPANISH) "The war, the great Spain."
355
00:23:45,960 --> 00:23:47,936
- I'm tired of it, too.
- They treat it so lightly.
356
00:23:47,960 --> 00:23:51,320
They talk about the war, "Guernica"
and Picasso as if they were exotic.
357
00:23:51,400 --> 00:23:52,800
It's so condescending.
358
00:23:52,880 --> 00:23:55,520
By the way, we should go see it
at the universal exhibition.
359
00:23:55,600 --> 00:23:58,880
What are you doing here,
gathered like mushrooms in a forest?
360
00:23:58,960 --> 00:24:01,920
Cristóbal, come with me.
Coco is talking to Carmel Snow. Let's go.
361
00:24:02,000 --> 00:24:03,880
- Who?
- Carmel Snow.
362
00:24:03,960 --> 00:24:06,800
Editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar.
Very influential.
363
00:24:06,880 --> 00:24:07,880
Right...
364
00:24:08,520 --> 00:24:09,520
(IN BASQUE) But...
365
00:24:11,960 --> 00:24:13,920
- CHANEL (IN FRENCH): It's beautiful.
- Thank you.
366
00:24:14,960 --> 00:24:18,040
Oh... Here's the moon.
367
00:24:19,200 --> 00:24:21,480
- And the sun.
- WLADZIO: How are you, Coco?
368
00:24:21,560 --> 00:24:25,880
Marvelous, Coco, just marvelous,
everything you've showed.
369
00:24:25,960 --> 00:24:27,520
WLADZIO: Thank you for inviting us.
370
00:24:27,600 --> 00:24:29,840
It was an honor to be here.
371
00:24:29,920 --> 00:24:33,000
It was a pleasure, but don't forget...
372
00:24:33,080 --> 00:24:35,040
This is the jungle, darlings.
373
00:24:35,800 --> 00:24:39,880
Don't expect my help, we're rivals now.
374
00:24:40,800 --> 00:24:44,080
Do you know high fashion's Cleopatra?
375
00:24:44,160 --> 00:24:46,040
Carmel, come here for a second.
376
00:24:46,120 --> 00:24:49,440
If you want to be someone
in the fashion world,
377
00:24:49,520 --> 00:24:51,480
you want to get along with her.
378
00:24:52,440 --> 00:24:54,640
Go on, start complimenting her.
379
00:24:54,720 --> 00:24:58,200
Carmel, this is Cristóbal Balenciaga.
380
00:24:58,280 --> 00:25:00,560
- Nice to meet you.
- It's a pleasure.
381
00:25:00,640 --> 00:25:03,000
You must have forgotten, but we met
382
00:25:03,080 --> 00:25:04,880
in a showcase for Vionnet and Lanvin.
383
00:25:04,960 --> 00:25:07,960
Cristóbal is a great dressmaker,
he makes copies
384
00:25:08,600 --> 00:25:13,080
of known designers and improves them.
385
00:25:13,160 --> 00:25:14,600
That was before.
386
00:25:15,400 --> 00:25:18,920
Nowadays, I'm focused
on completely original collections.
387
00:25:19,000 --> 00:25:21,760
Yes, the syndicate
have given us the green light,
388
00:25:21,840 --> 00:25:24,280
and we've showcased our first collection.
389
00:25:24,360 --> 00:25:25,880
CHANEL: Yes, I know.
390
00:25:25,960 --> 00:25:27,840
I was joking.
391
00:25:29,520 --> 00:25:33,240
- (LAUGHS)
- Tell me, I'm dying to know
392
00:25:33,320 --> 00:25:35,280
what your style is like.
393
00:25:35,360 --> 00:25:36,440
My style?
394
00:25:36,520 --> 00:25:39,080
Yes, how would you define your style?
395
00:25:40,920 --> 00:25:42,360
Yes, of course.
396
00:25:44,240 --> 00:25:48,680
It's a sober and elegant style,
397
00:25:48,760 --> 00:25:50,280
with very few accessories.
398
00:25:51,640 --> 00:25:53,840
Based mostly on the fabric.
399
00:25:55,440 --> 00:25:58,000
This dress is from his latest collection.
400
00:26:00,800 --> 00:26:02,040
Right...
401
00:26:02,920 --> 00:26:05,960
And the dress
that elegant woman is wearing, too.
402
00:26:08,440 --> 00:26:10,960
It'd be better
if you could see the full collection.
403
00:26:11,040 --> 00:26:13,160
There's a showcase every day
at Maison Balenciaga.
404
00:26:13,240 --> 00:26:15,680
It would be an honor...
405
00:26:15,760 --> 00:26:18,280
(CHANEL LAUGHS)
406
00:26:20,720 --> 00:26:22,920
She's hammered.
407
00:26:25,160 --> 00:26:26,800
It's her natural state.
408
00:26:26,880 --> 00:26:29,160
Well, I need to attend to my guests.
409
00:26:29,240 --> 00:26:30,240
Uh...
410
00:26:31,880 --> 00:26:33,320
If you don't mind...
411
00:26:34,640 --> 00:26:35,800
some advice...
412
00:26:35,880 --> 00:26:39,840
prepare some words
about your style, it'll be useful.
413
00:26:40,440 --> 00:26:42,120
Good luck, darling.
414
00:26:44,120 --> 00:26:45,720
(SIGHS)
415
00:26:49,120 --> 00:26:50,320
Good.
416
00:26:52,720 --> 00:26:54,640
(ENGINE HUMS)
417
00:26:58,800 --> 00:27:00,760
(IN SPANISH)
I don't understand her attitude.
418
00:27:01,600 --> 00:27:03,200
She treated you like a nobody.
419
00:27:04,920 --> 00:27:07,240
- (SIGHS)
- She urged you to come to Paris.
420
00:27:10,040 --> 00:27:11,520
We shouldn't have come.
421
00:27:13,120 --> 00:27:14,520
We're in another league.
422
00:27:15,480 --> 00:27:16,880
They're a different category.
423
00:27:18,680 --> 00:27:20,600
Making good copies is one thing,
424
00:27:20,680 --> 00:27:24,280
having talent and style to make
unique things, that's another.
425
00:27:24,360 --> 00:27:25,840
You know that, Wladzio.
426
00:27:26,400 --> 00:27:27,960
That's why you're upset.
427
00:27:35,800 --> 00:27:37,640
(SIGHS)
428
00:27:38,040 --> 00:27:40,080
I feel bad for Nicolás and Virgilia.
429
00:27:42,320 --> 00:27:44,560
WLADZIO: Cristóbal,
don't get ahead of yourself.
430
00:27:44,640 --> 00:27:47,680
They wanted to invest
in Maison Balenciaga in Paris.
431
00:27:47,760 --> 00:27:49,680
You didn't ask them or force them at all.
432
00:27:49,760 --> 00:27:51,960
You and I decided to come here.
433
00:27:52,040 --> 00:27:54,200
They came for political reasons.
434
00:28:02,520 --> 00:28:04,360
(IN FRENCH) Number 77.
435
00:28:04,440 --> 00:28:06,120
(TRANSLATES IN ENGLISH)
436
00:28:08,120 --> 00:28:09,480
(TELEPHONE RINGS)
437
00:28:09,560 --> 00:28:11,760
(INDISTINCT CONVERSATION)
438
00:28:17,520 --> 00:28:20,320
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
439
00:28:25,560 --> 00:28:27,040
- (IN FRENCH) Florette.
- Yes?
440
00:28:27,600 --> 00:28:29,760
Is it usually this empty?
441
00:28:32,960 --> 00:28:35,240
Uh... The shopping center?
442
00:28:35,880 --> 00:28:38,520
They liked what they saw at the showcase,
443
00:28:39,240 --> 00:28:41,240
but they can't make up their minds.
444
00:28:42,920 --> 00:28:44,080
I don't know...
445
00:28:44,560 --> 00:28:47,560
Maybe we should reconsider the prices?
446
00:28:47,640 --> 00:28:49,640
No, that's not the problem.
447
00:28:49,720 --> 00:28:52,960
The elite don't mind paying
for good quality.
448
00:28:53,040 --> 00:28:57,240
They even prefer expensive prices
for exclusivity.
449
00:28:57,320 --> 00:28:58,760
Understood.
450
00:28:59,080 --> 00:29:00,520
You know more than I do.
451
00:29:03,120 --> 00:29:06,360
I heard you saw Carmel Snow.
452
00:29:06,440 --> 00:29:09,000
- Did you not invite her to come?
- We did.
453
00:29:11,360 --> 00:29:15,600
A review from someone so influential
would give us visibility.
454
00:29:16,880 --> 00:29:19,560
Huh... Yes.
455
00:29:25,960 --> 00:29:28,440
(IN BASQUE) We talked for a while.
456
00:29:29,280 --> 00:29:31,320
There were lots of people, right?
457
00:29:31,400 --> 00:29:32,720
Did they feed you?
458
00:29:32,800 --> 00:29:35,560
Yes, Mom, why do you want to know that?
459
00:29:36,240 --> 00:29:40,040
Jesus, son, I'm just curious.
460
00:29:41,280 --> 00:29:43,520
Since we can't go to Chanel's parties...
461
00:29:43,600 --> 00:29:45,520
I just want to experience that excitement.
462
00:29:46,280 --> 00:29:48,440
Don't get too excited,
463
00:29:48,520 --> 00:29:50,440
it was all nonsense.
464
00:29:50,520 --> 00:29:54,280
Keep your feet on the ground. Stay humble.
465
00:29:55,400 --> 00:29:56,400
CRISTÓBAL: Yes, Mom.
466
00:29:59,600 --> 00:30:01,200
CRISTÓBAL'S MOTHER: How are the sales?
467
00:30:03,560 --> 00:30:06,200
CRISTÓBAL: Well, very well.
468
00:30:06,280 --> 00:30:07,520
Don't worry.
469
00:30:07,600 --> 00:30:09,360
CRISTÓBAL'S MOTHER: I'm glad to hear it.
470
00:30:09,440 --> 00:30:11,520
You know how things are here...
471
00:30:12,080 --> 00:30:14,720
Your brother is desperate
after the shut down in Madrid.
472
00:30:14,800 --> 00:30:17,160
CRISTÓBAL: Yes, we speak often.
473
00:30:17,560 --> 00:30:21,080
CRISTÓBAL'S MOTHER: So you'll know
that they're expecting another child.
474
00:30:21,160 --> 00:30:23,640
CRISTÓBAL: Another one? I didn't know.
475
00:30:23,720 --> 00:30:26,040
CRISTÓBAL'S MOTHER:
Yes. Their tenth child.
476
00:30:27,040 --> 00:30:30,120
If Paris doesn't go well,
477
00:30:30,720 --> 00:30:31,960
we're done for.
478
00:30:35,040 --> 00:30:37,520
VIRGILIA: Still, it's so obvious
that they're Chanel.
479
00:30:37,600 --> 00:30:39,800
I'd recognize them even if I was blind.
480
00:30:43,440 --> 00:30:44,600
(IN FRENCH) It's not working.
481
00:30:45,200 --> 00:30:46,400
What would you change?
482
00:30:47,080 --> 00:30:48,320
Everything.
483
00:30:49,640 --> 00:30:52,960
- I don't love it.
- There are no mistakes.
484
00:30:53,040 --> 00:30:55,720
But we'll fix it, improve it.
485
00:30:56,400 --> 00:30:59,240
I know it can be improved.
486
00:31:00,560 --> 00:31:02,200
That's not the problem.
487
00:31:02,280 --> 00:31:06,840
It's an old-fashioned line,
it adds nothing to it.
488
00:31:06,920 --> 00:31:09,800
You'd think they're hicks
489
00:31:09,880 --> 00:31:14,200
on their way
to their grandchildren's christening.
490
00:31:14,280 --> 00:31:17,720
- I put a lot of time into it.
- I don't care, Suzanne.
491
00:31:17,800 --> 00:31:20,720
- SUZANNE: We spent hours on it.
- I don't care!
492
00:31:20,800 --> 00:31:22,200
Me too!
493
00:31:22,280 --> 00:31:25,840
I spent hours designing it!
But it doesn't work!
494
00:31:26,560 --> 00:31:28,720
It's better to stop now!
495
00:31:46,000 --> 00:31:47,320
SUZANNE: Let's keep working.
496
00:31:47,840 --> 00:31:49,760
- Relax.
- Yes.
497
00:31:52,480 --> 00:31:56,200
(CRISTÓBAL BREATHING HEAVILY)
498
00:32:03,920 --> 00:32:05,440
(IN SPANISH) What's wrong, Cristóbal?
499
00:32:06,040 --> 00:32:09,800
It's horrifying.
It has no style, no nothing...
500
00:32:12,400 --> 00:32:13,800
You spend too much time here.
501
00:32:16,960 --> 00:32:18,280
You need to rest.
502
00:32:21,560 --> 00:32:22,920
(SIGHS)
503
00:32:27,120 --> 00:32:31,000
UNIVERSAL EXHIBITION
PARIS, OCTOBER 1937
504
00:32:36,400 --> 00:32:37,400
Well...
505
00:32:38,640 --> 00:32:41,160
I thought it would be
a good idea to come here and relax.
506
00:32:42,440 --> 00:32:44,360
CRISTÓBAL: You'd think
they're handing out gifts.
507
00:32:45,640 --> 00:32:46,760
Shall we go?
508
00:32:50,080 --> 00:32:52,440
Nicolás, I want to apologize for earlier.
509
00:32:54,000 --> 00:32:56,440
I'm ashamed of how I behaved.
510
00:32:57,360 --> 00:32:58,440
All that screaming...
511
00:32:59,360 --> 00:33:01,160
- Just terrible!
- Quit that.
512
00:33:01,840 --> 00:33:02,920
I've already forgotten.
513
00:33:07,480 --> 00:33:09,840
I don't want you to lose any money.
514
00:33:11,280 --> 00:33:15,080
(SIGHS) But...
I don't know if we'll make it.
515
00:33:17,400 --> 00:33:19,880
What do you think?
You think I don't cover my back?
516
00:33:20,880 --> 00:33:22,040
Forget it.
517
00:33:22,760 --> 00:33:24,640
Focus on making the best dresses.
518
00:33:25,440 --> 00:33:26,720
The rest is all decoration.
519
00:33:35,200 --> 00:33:37,520
Do you think
that if there was no war in Spain
520
00:33:37,600 --> 00:33:39,840
there would be so many people
in the Spanish pavilion?
521
00:33:41,080 --> 00:33:42,680
CRISTÓBAL: Probably not.
522
00:33:44,880 --> 00:33:47,280
NICOLÁS: So Spain
really is trendy right now.
523
00:34:03,680 --> 00:34:07,400
SPAIN
SHAPES AND COSTUMES
524
00:35:07,760 --> 00:35:08,800
(DOOR OPENING)
525
00:35:11,600 --> 00:35:12,600
(IN FRENCH) Good morning.
526
00:35:17,840 --> 00:35:21,440
So, why did you want to see me?
527
00:35:21,520 --> 00:35:22,960
I'm very busy.
528
00:35:23,040 --> 00:35:26,440
I'm very grateful, Ms. Chanel.
529
00:35:27,360 --> 00:35:28,640
So talk.
530
00:35:30,040 --> 00:35:32,120
I won't beat around the bush.
531
00:35:32,520 --> 00:35:34,720
I wanted to ask you a question.
532
00:35:36,400 --> 00:35:41,080
Do you think Balenciaga
is worthy of Parisian haute couture?
533
00:35:42,360 --> 00:35:46,480
I hear people say
he's very good, a genius, but...
534
00:35:46,560 --> 00:35:48,600
I don't see it.
535
00:35:50,760 --> 00:35:52,360
What a question.
536
00:35:52,440 --> 00:35:56,720
It must have cost you a lot
to launch Maison Balenciaga.
537
00:35:57,320 --> 00:35:59,680
Shouldn't you have asked that before?
538
00:35:59,760 --> 00:36:02,360
Yes, but we can't get sales going,
539
00:36:02,440 --> 00:36:06,680
and suppliers want us
to pay for the fabrics.
540
00:36:07,960 --> 00:36:10,680
I'm asking the expert here.
541
00:36:12,160 --> 00:36:14,240
He's not just worthy, he's better.
542
00:36:15,880 --> 00:36:19,680
The first time I saw his dresses
in San Sebastián,
543
00:36:19,760 --> 00:36:21,280
I knew he was special.
544
00:36:22,080 --> 00:36:24,320
A Balenciaga's worth...
545
00:36:26,000 --> 00:36:28,600
is in its secrets, its dressmaking.
546
00:36:28,680 --> 00:36:30,480
Would you mind turning around?
547
00:36:33,960 --> 00:36:35,080
What are you doing?
548
00:36:36,000 --> 00:36:37,720
You're not a great example.
549
00:36:38,160 --> 00:36:40,200
- What do you mean?
- You have no hump.
550
00:36:40,760 --> 00:36:44,400
- Well, thank you.
- I don't know if you've noticed,
551
00:36:44,480 --> 00:36:46,960
but, often, Cristóbal's jackets
552
00:36:47,880 --> 00:36:50,800
are pinched slightly here
553
00:36:51,360 --> 00:36:53,080
and here.
554
00:36:53,480 --> 00:36:55,240
It's not decorative.
555
00:36:55,320 --> 00:36:57,240
The long pinches
556
00:36:57,840 --> 00:37:01,360
allow you to separate
the jacket from the back.
557
00:37:02,040 --> 00:37:04,960
This technique allows women
558
00:37:05,040 --> 00:37:08,360
with humps to look straight,
and this is just an example.
559
00:37:08,440 --> 00:37:10,480
What Cristóbal does for them
560
00:37:10,560 --> 00:37:15,120
is like plastic surgery,
with all those details.
561
00:37:15,200 --> 00:37:18,360
And he also invents.
562
00:37:23,600 --> 00:37:27,440
He comes up with new ways
to make buttonholes...
563
00:37:31,600 --> 00:37:34,400
of positioning the collar,
adding the sleeves,
564
00:37:34,480 --> 00:37:36,280
distributing the weight.
565
00:37:37,320 --> 00:37:40,160
Did you know he's been sewing
since he was a child?
566
00:37:41,800 --> 00:37:45,840
Balenciaga is the last true dressmaker.
567
00:37:45,920 --> 00:37:49,160
The rest of us are just designers.
568
00:37:49,800 --> 00:37:52,800
He knows the whole process,
from start to finish,
569
00:37:52,880 --> 00:37:54,600
and it's obvious.
570
00:37:55,640 --> 00:37:59,240
I have no doubt
that he'll be a great competitor,
571
00:37:59,320 --> 00:38:02,480
and you will make a fortune,
Mr. Bizkarrondo.
572
00:38:02,560 --> 00:38:05,200
I'm very glad to hear that.
573
00:38:05,800 --> 00:38:07,480
Thank you, Ms. Chanel.
574
00:38:31,960 --> 00:38:35,680
It's folkloric, exotic
and sophisticated at the same time.
575
00:38:36,720 --> 00:38:38,240
I think it will work.
576
00:38:44,480 --> 00:38:46,240
What do you think, Suzanne?
577
00:38:48,200 --> 00:38:49,200
I like it.
578
00:38:54,120 --> 00:38:55,360
Me too.
579
00:38:57,720 --> 00:38:58,920
I like it.
580
00:39:03,480 --> 00:39:04,880
WLADZIO: Step by step.
581
00:39:15,680 --> 00:39:18,560
Knowing all this, I have another question.
582
00:39:18,640 --> 00:39:21,880
Could you get Carmel Snow to come and see
583
00:39:21,960 --> 00:39:24,440
the next Balenciaga showcase?
584
00:39:27,760 --> 00:39:29,520
(DRAMATIC MUSIC PLAYS)
585
00:40:28,800 --> 00:40:31,680
CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH): I suppose
it wasn't just Carmel Snow's visit.
586
00:40:31,800 --> 00:40:34,680
But slowly we started to get
587
00:40:34,760 --> 00:40:36,800
our big clients.
588
00:40:36,880 --> 00:40:40,960
They're a fundamental part
for creating great designers.
589
00:40:43,240 --> 00:40:44,920
The Duchess of Windsor,
590
00:40:45,440 --> 00:40:48,880
Gloria Guinness,
the Marchioness of Llanzol,
591
00:40:48,960 --> 00:40:51,680
Babe Paley, Marlene Dietrich,
592
00:40:51,760 --> 00:40:53,160
Grace Kelly...
593
00:40:54,720 --> 00:40:58,080
(DRAMATIC MUSIC CONTINUES)
594
00:41:19,600 --> 00:41:23,440
PRUDENCE:
You were crucial in defining the style
595
00:41:23,520 --> 00:41:25,120
of those women.
596
00:41:25,200 --> 00:41:26,400
Or the other way around.
597
00:41:27,000 --> 00:41:30,120
Those women and their styles were crucial
598
00:41:30,200 --> 00:41:32,400
in defining my own style.
599
00:41:42,640 --> 00:41:46,520
My designs came to be on their bodies.
600
00:41:59,200 --> 00:42:01,520
It's part of the complexity of style.
601
00:42:03,080 --> 00:42:04,080
Huh...
602
00:42:12,480 --> 00:42:15,360
(CLOSING THEME MUSIC PLAYS)