1 00:00:01,560 --> 00:00:04,280 “Cristóbal is the only real couturier among us. 2 00:00:04,360 --> 00:00:07,800 The rest, we are simply just fashion designers.” Coco Chanel 3 00:00:07,880 --> 00:00:12,520 This series is inspired by the thirty years Cristóbal Balenciaga spent in Paris, 4 00:00:12,600 --> 00:00:15,960 from his beginnings to becoming the king of haute couture. 5 00:00:17,000 --> 00:00:18,040 IN PREVIOUS EPISODES 6 00:00:18,120 --> 00:00:19,120 Mr. Balenciaga. 7 00:00:19,200 --> 00:00:22,960 Actually, I'm interested in your beginnings in Paris. 8 00:00:23,040 --> 00:00:24,320 But then, those weeks... 9 00:00:24,400 --> 00:00:27,480 after the showcase for the first collection... 10 00:00:27,560 --> 00:00:29,680 They were full of uncertainty. 11 00:00:29,760 --> 00:00:32,120 I think the reviews have been mostly positive. 12 00:00:32,200 --> 00:00:34,000 On a scale of one to ten, it's a six. 13 00:00:34,080 --> 00:00:37,280 But I think it lacks some personality. 14 00:00:38,040 --> 00:00:41,440 I spent hours designing it! But it doesn't work! 15 00:00:42,880 --> 00:00:44,960 WLADZIO: May I introduce you to Nicolás Bizkarrondo. 16 00:00:45,040 --> 00:00:48,160 And his wife, Virgilia Mendizábal, main shareholders of the Maison. 17 00:00:48,240 --> 00:00:50,600 CRISTÓBAL: You and I decided to come here. 18 00:00:50,680 --> 00:00:52,760 They came for political reasons. 19 00:00:52,840 --> 00:00:55,280 There isn't that much talent in high fashion. 20 00:00:55,360 --> 00:00:57,120 And you have it, obviously. 21 00:00:59,480 --> 00:01:01,520 Ms. Chanel. 22 00:01:01,600 --> 00:01:05,520 Do you think Balenciaga is worthy of Parisian haute couture? 23 00:01:13,600 --> 00:01:16,080 (LOUDSPEAKERS BROADCAST HITLER'S VOICE) 24 00:01:34,160 --> 00:01:36,680 (MELANCHOLIC MUSIC) 25 00:01:42,920 --> 00:01:46,240 (DEEP BREATHING) 26 00:01:52,800 --> 00:01:54,360 What are you doing? 27 00:01:54,440 --> 00:01:56,520 WLADZIO: Come. You have to see this. 28 00:02:08,920 --> 00:02:13,280 (MARCHING JACKBOOTS) 29 00:02:18,280 --> 00:02:23,000 PRUDENCE: I'd like to talk about the Nazis' arrival in Paris. 30 00:02:24,160 --> 00:02:26,560 CRISTÓBAL: Careful with your questions, Prudence. 31 00:02:28,840 --> 00:02:31,040 There are some things I'd rather not talk about. 32 00:02:36,280 --> 00:02:39,480 PARIS - JUNE 1940 THE OCCUPATION BEGAN 33 00:02:45,920 --> 00:02:48,080 COLETTE (IN FRENCH): I'm not stupid, Renée. 34 00:02:48,160 --> 00:02:49,280 I know what I saw. 35 00:02:50,360 --> 00:02:53,280 He was in front of the Trocadéro an hour ago. 36 00:02:53,360 --> 00:02:55,440 With how busy he is? 37 00:02:55,520 --> 00:02:56,880 Why would he be there? 38 00:02:56,960 --> 00:02:58,160 It was him. 39 00:02:58,240 --> 00:03:00,560 Taking a picture with the Eiffel Tower. 40 00:03:00,640 --> 00:03:03,960 RENÉE: Taking photos like a tourist at this hour? 41 00:03:04,040 --> 00:03:05,640 It makes no sense. 42 00:03:05,720 --> 00:03:09,240 COLETTE: I'd have stayed. You don't see Hitler every day. 43 00:03:09,320 --> 00:03:12,200 But I was also scared of staying. 44 00:03:12,280 --> 00:03:13,400 CRISTÓBAL: Shh. 45 00:03:14,080 --> 00:03:15,560 Walk, please. 46 00:03:21,240 --> 00:03:23,280 (IN SPANISH) I thought it'd look better. 47 00:03:23,360 --> 00:03:25,800 This fabric is rubbish. It has no volume. 48 00:03:25,880 --> 00:03:27,160 I don't know. 49 00:03:28,000 --> 00:03:30,240 What hat did we have for this design? 50 00:03:40,600 --> 00:03:41,920 Something's missing. 51 00:03:42,000 --> 00:03:44,560 How could it be bigger? Try a bigger one. 52 00:03:47,760 --> 00:03:48,800 (IN FRENCH) Bigger. 53 00:03:51,600 --> 00:03:53,360 WLADZIO: I don't have any. 54 00:03:53,480 --> 00:03:55,160 Unless you want me to use the pot. 55 00:03:55,840 --> 00:03:56,840 Do it. 56 00:04:13,040 --> 00:04:15,800 Could you design something like this? 57 00:04:16,920 --> 00:04:17,920 RENÉE: Sir. 58 00:04:19,920 --> 00:04:22,920 There's an SS officer in the hall with a woman. 59 00:04:23,000 --> 00:04:25,120 She wants us to make her a dress. 60 00:04:25,200 --> 00:04:27,800 I told her we only see people with invitations, but... 61 00:04:28,840 --> 00:04:30,480 What do we do? 62 00:04:31,240 --> 00:04:32,800 The officer is pretty scary. 63 00:04:33,280 --> 00:04:34,920 Tell them to come in. 64 00:04:37,080 --> 00:04:40,400 They're clients, and we don't have many of those. 65 00:04:44,920 --> 00:04:48,040 The torso is black tulle with embroidered sequins, 66 00:04:48,120 --> 00:04:51,280 and the skirt is mustard synthetic satin. 67 00:04:56,000 --> 00:04:59,560 This is a historicist evening gown. 68 00:05:01,560 --> 00:05:03,000 I love it. 69 00:05:03,360 --> 00:05:04,680 I love it! 70 00:05:05,000 --> 00:05:07,480 I'd like one with longer sleeves and... 71 00:05:07,560 --> 00:05:09,720 could you use this fabric? 72 00:05:12,720 --> 00:05:13,720 Uh... 73 00:05:15,080 --> 00:05:16,160 That's not possible. 74 00:05:17,040 --> 00:05:21,120 I'm sorry, but high-fashion houses don't work like this. 75 00:05:21,200 --> 00:05:23,880 The Infanta dress is only available in this fabric. 76 00:05:25,480 --> 00:05:28,280 It wouldn't be the same if I used yours. 77 00:05:28,800 --> 00:05:31,600 Yes, but I want to use this one. 78 00:05:32,400 --> 00:05:34,280 It was my grandmother's. 79 00:05:34,360 --> 00:05:36,320 I have an entire roll at home. 80 00:05:36,400 --> 00:05:37,640 It's good quality. 81 00:05:37,720 --> 00:05:39,080 Yes, yes. 82 00:05:39,160 --> 00:05:41,400 That's not the problem. 83 00:05:41,480 --> 00:05:43,120 (SPEAKING IN GERMAN) 84 00:05:44,040 --> 00:05:46,960 (SPEAKING IN GERMAN) 85 00:05:49,600 --> 00:05:52,600 (CONTINUES IN GERMAN) 86 00:05:56,480 --> 00:05:57,560 (IN FRENCH) Excuse me. 87 00:05:59,040 --> 00:06:01,800 If this is what you want, we accept. 88 00:06:01,880 --> 00:06:03,680 We will make longer sleeves. 89 00:06:04,600 --> 00:06:07,680 But we'll use our fabric. 90 00:06:13,920 --> 00:06:15,120 Very well. 91 00:06:16,320 --> 00:06:20,080 We must respect the rules of high fashion, right? 92 00:06:24,200 --> 00:06:26,720 (SPEAKING IN GERMAN) 93 00:06:28,840 --> 00:06:30,840 He says they'll take high fashion to Germany. 94 00:06:30,920 --> 00:06:34,320 Seeing German high fashion will be interesting. 95 00:06:34,400 --> 00:06:36,680 Oh, no, no. 96 00:06:37,480 --> 00:06:40,400 He means they will take Parisian high fashion to Germany. 97 00:06:42,040 --> 00:06:43,040 Oh. 98 00:06:43,360 --> 00:06:44,560 (ANIMATED CHATTER) 99 00:06:44,640 --> 00:06:46,720 PARIS JULY 1940 TRADE ASSOCIATION FOR HAUTE COUTURE 100 00:06:46,800 --> 00:06:49,400 LELONG: Silence, please! Don't talk over each other 101 00:06:49,480 --> 00:06:50,480 SPECIAL METTING ATTENDEES 102 00:06:50,560 --> 00:06:53,080 One by one. Please! 103 00:06:53,960 --> 00:06:57,440 Stay calm, please. Thank you. 104 00:06:58,200 --> 00:06:59,880 FATH: What? 105 00:06:59,960 --> 00:07:01,280 I have to go to Berlin? 106 00:07:01,360 --> 00:07:04,480 Right now, it's just a suggestion. 107 00:07:04,560 --> 00:07:06,280 It's madness. 108 00:07:06,360 --> 00:07:07,400 And the suppliers? 109 00:07:07,480 --> 00:07:10,080 And all those who depend on us? 110 00:07:10,160 --> 00:07:11,240 True. 111 00:07:11,320 --> 00:07:13,360 Embroiderers, button makers... 112 00:07:13,440 --> 00:07:15,400 -What's the point? -It's obvious. 113 00:07:15,480 --> 00:07:18,640 They think we have too much influence on fashion. 114 00:07:18,720 --> 00:07:21,200 They want women to dress like nuns. 115 00:07:21,280 --> 00:07:22,880 (LAUGHTER) 116 00:07:22,960 --> 00:07:25,640 Negotiations are going well, let's stay calm. 117 00:07:25,720 --> 00:07:26,960 So... 118 00:07:27,040 --> 00:07:29,080 we must stay strong. 119 00:07:29,160 --> 00:07:30,240 And resist. 120 00:07:30,320 --> 00:07:32,520 I'm sorry, but count me out. 121 00:07:32,600 --> 00:07:36,120 I don't have the strength, nor do I want to kiss the Germans' asses. 122 00:07:36,200 --> 00:07:38,520 Are you sure? We must stick together. 123 00:07:38,600 --> 00:07:40,200 What are you saying? 124 00:07:40,720 --> 00:07:43,840 There's no fashion in France because of the war. 125 00:07:44,360 --> 00:07:46,840 The factories are focused on the war. 126 00:07:46,920 --> 00:07:49,440 Where are the fabrics? Without fabrics, there's no fashion. 127 00:07:50,240 --> 00:07:53,320 That's why I closed. It's not the time to make dresses. 128 00:07:53,400 --> 00:07:56,320 (INDISTINCT CHATTER) 129 00:07:57,720 --> 00:07:59,280 BIZKARRONDO: Well, tell us. 130 00:07:59,360 --> 00:08:00,760 BIZKARRONDO (IN SPANISH): What do you think? 131 00:08:00,840 --> 00:08:02,160 We aren't sure. 132 00:08:03,760 --> 00:08:04,880 Think about it, Cristóbal. 133 00:08:04,960 --> 00:08:06,320 What can you do? 134 00:08:07,920 --> 00:08:09,600 Things aren't better in Spain. 135 00:08:11,160 --> 00:08:13,840 We could close now and open later on. 136 00:08:13,920 --> 00:08:15,120 If you close, it's over. 137 00:08:15,760 --> 00:08:19,440 Besides, the Germans threaten to confiscate everything if you close. 138 00:08:24,440 --> 00:08:26,240 What do you think, Virgilia? 139 00:08:27,800 --> 00:08:29,760 VIRGILIA: I don't know about you, Cristóbal, 140 00:08:29,840 --> 00:08:33,120 but we have no other option besides staying open. 141 00:08:33,680 --> 00:08:35,640 We can't go back to Spain. 142 00:08:36,760 --> 00:08:38,080 Are you sure? 143 00:08:38,520 --> 00:08:40,280 The war over there is ended. 144 00:08:41,800 --> 00:08:43,240 For those who won, yes. 145 00:08:47,360 --> 00:08:48,960 It came two weeks ago. 146 00:08:50,320 --> 00:08:52,480 I'm sentenced to pay 100,000 pesetas 147 00:08:52,560 --> 00:08:55,560 and suspension for reasons of political responsibility. 148 00:08:55,640 --> 00:08:58,360 VIRGILIA: If we don't pay, they'll make my father pay. 149 00:08:58,960 --> 00:09:01,000 BIZKARRONDO: For now, it's a fine, 150 00:09:01,080 --> 00:09:03,480 but who knows if that will be enough or... 151 00:09:03,560 --> 00:09:05,360 (IN FRENCH) I'm sorry. 152 00:09:05,440 --> 00:09:06,920 (IN SPANISH) What will you do? 153 00:09:07,000 --> 00:09:10,480 BIZKARRONDO: We have appealed through a trusted lawyer. 154 00:09:11,400 --> 00:09:14,480 -They said it will be a long process. -So the ball is in your court. 155 00:09:20,600 --> 00:09:23,080 (THUNDER RUMBLES) 156 00:09:26,160 --> 00:09:28,760 CRISTÓBAL: In the end, we decided not to close. 157 00:09:28,840 --> 00:09:31,920 Finally, the Germans allowed us to stay in Paris. 158 00:09:32,000 --> 00:09:34,600 But they became much more severe. 159 00:09:34,680 --> 00:09:37,320 They forbid fabric imports. 160 00:09:37,400 --> 00:09:39,440 They limited the number of designs 161 00:09:39,520 --> 00:09:41,320 we were allowed to showcase. 162 00:09:41,880 --> 00:09:43,800 But what could we do? 163 00:09:43,880 --> 00:09:45,880 It was that or shutting down. 164 00:09:46,840 --> 00:09:49,280 So we carried on as best we could, 165 00:09:49,880 --> 00:09:52,520 until the occupation ended. 166 00:09:55,760 --> 00:09:57,400 Next question. 167 00:09:58,560 --> 00:09:59,640 Is that it? 168 00:10:00,280 --> 00:10:03,880 Is that all you have to say about the occupation? 169 00:10:03,960 --> 00:10:05,960 What else do you want me to say? 170 00:10:06,520 --> 00:10:08,040 They were difficult years. 171 00:10:08,120 --> 00:10:10,080 Yes, you said that. 172 00:10:10,840 --> 00:10:14,040 However, when the war ended, 173 00:10:14,120 --> 00:10:15,560 the Maison Balenciaga 174 00:10:15,640 --> 00:10:17,640 was earning more than before. 175 00:10:17,720 --> 00:10:19,400 It wasn't so bad for you... 176 00:10:22,600 --> 00:10:24,280 Speak clearly. 177 00:10:24,360 --> 00:10:28,120 What are you trying to ask? 178 00:10:29,080 --> 00:10:30,600 If I collaborated? 179 00:10:31,160 --> 00:10:32,760 You said that yourself. 180 00:10:33,920 --> 00:10:35,840 Are you afraid someone might accuse you? 181 00:10:35,920 --> 00:10:37,480 Good God! 182 00:10:38,280 --> 00:10:39,800 Have you lived through a war? 183 00:10:40,440 --> 00:10:42,120 Luckily, I was very young. 184 00:10:43,280 --> 00:10:45,720 So you don't know what you're talking about. 185 00:10:45,800 --> 00:10:48,880 If you haven't lived through a war, you can't understand. 186 00:10:48,960 --> 00:10:50,200 Try. 187 00:10:54,360 --> 00:10:56,200 (MELANCHOLIC MUSIC) 188 00:10:56,280 --> 00:10:58,640 CRISTÓBAL: There was a fear of the invaders. 189 00:10:59,200 --> 00:11:01,960 But we were also afraid to talk amongst ourselves. 190 00:11:02,040 --> 00:11:04,720 We were afraid of talking to our neighbors, the milkman, 191 00:11:04,800 --> 00:11:07,560 the fabric supplier... everyone! 192 00:11:08,400 --> 00:11:12,000 We were all trying to survive however we could. 193 00:11:13,320 --> 00:11:16,480 I think we have to take advantage of the strengths we may have. 194 00:11:16,560 --> 00:11:17,760 What do you mean? 195 00:11:18,440 --> 00:11:21,040 We could bring the fabric from Spain. 196 00:11:21,800 --> 00:11:24,240 CONDUCTOR (IN FRENCH): Hendaya, end of journey. 197 00:11:25,320 --> 00:11:28,640 Hendaya, end of journey. 198 00:11:32,680 --> 00:11:34,640 BIZKARRONDO (IN SPANISH): Your friends in the Embassy 199 00:11:34,720 --> 00:11:35,720 can get you a visa. 200 00:11:43,240 --> 00:11:45,960 They won't stop you from crossing the border. 201 00:11:47,960 --> 00:11:51,640 You can visit Spanish textile suppliers and pick the fabrics. 202 00:11:51,720 --> 00:11:55,560 WLADZIO: Spanish fabrics can't compare to Lyon's. 203 00:11:56,120 --> 00:11:58,560 VIRGILIA: Maybe so, in normal circumstances, 204 00:11:58,640 --> 00:12:00,600 but they're surely better than Lyon's fabrics 205 00:12:00,680 --> 00:12:02,200 or anywhere in France. 206 00:12:02,720 --> 00:12:05,000 Besides, they have no problem with importing fabrics. 207 00:12:06,960 --> 00:12:09,360 CRISTÓBAL: How will we smuggle the fabrics to France? 208 00:12:11,000 --> 00:12:13,640 BIZKARRONDO: I have contacts. Don't worry about that. 209 00:12:15,960 --> 00:12:17,040 MAN: Okay, let's go. 210 00:12:18,120 --> 00:12:20,640 (TRUCK ENGINE WHIRRING) 211 00:12:22,120 --> 00:12:23,480 DAILY SHOWCASE SPRING - SUMMER 212 00:12:23,560 --> 00:12:24,920 -This fabric is itchy. -Itchy? 213 00:12:25,000 --> 00:12:27,080 -It's itchy. -Well, anyway. 214 00:12:27,720 --> 00:12:31,200 -I'm not surprised, it's Spanish. -Really? 215 00:12:31,280 --> 00:12:32,280 (SHUSHES) 216 00:12:32,360 --> 00:12:34,760 Are you comfortable? Very well. 217 00:12:39,720 --> 00:12:42,200 It's a festival for bad taste. 218 00:12:42,280 --> 00:12:44,440 FLORETTE: If you had seen it before the war... 219 00:12:45,280 --> 00:12:46,280 The Rothschild, 220 00:12:47,080 --> 00:12:48,720 the Duchess of Windsor. 221 00:12:49,840 --> 00:12:51,000 Now there's only skanks. 222 00:12:52,200 --> 00:12:54,120 And nouveau riche from the black market. 223 00:12:54,200 --> 00:12:56,160 Florette, they'll hear you. 224 00:12:56,240 --> 00:12:57,840 (MURMUR) 225 00:12:58,560 --> 00:12:59,560 RENÉE: Look. 226 00:13:00,440 --> 00:13:01,480 Oh, my God. 227 00:13:02,040 --> 00:13:04,600 That scarf with that dress... 228 00:13:05,280 --> 00:13:06,320 (CÉCILE GASPS) 229 00:13:06,800 --> 00:13:08,960 Hi, Renée, Florette. 230 00:13:09,040 --> 00:13:12,760 I couldn't come to the official showcase, but I couldn't miss this. 231 00:13:12,840 --> 00:13:13,880 It's an honor. 232 00:13:13,960 --> 00:13:15,240 (CÉCILE LAUGHS) 233 00:13:18,440 --> 00:13:21,240 You do you, but I still think they're too big. 234 00:13:22,760 --> 00:13:26,800 When you have your own Maison, you may make them smaller. 235 00:13:26,880 --> 00:13:30,760 But for now, Mr. Balenciaga wants them like this. 236 00:13:34,720 --> 00:13:36,160 BIZKARRONDO: Wladzio. 237 00:13:36,240 --> 00:13:38,880 (IN SPANISH) I'm worried about Cristóbal's travels. 238 00:13:38,960 --> 00:13:40,800 He stays for longer every time. 239 00:13:40,880 --> 00:13:43,360 I'm worried he might neglect the Maison. 240 00:13:43,440 --> 00:13:45,080 You're seeing ghosts. 241 00:13:45,160 --> 00:13:46,880 Think about my situation. 242 00:13:46,960 --> 00:13:49,320 I bet on him and on Paris. 243 00:13:49,400 --> 00:13:51,640 I have nothing to do with Spanish houses. 244 00:13:52,160 --> 00:13:54,600 Yes, but our numbers are improving, 245 00:13:54,680 --> 00:13:57,480 and it's mostly thanks to the fabrics we get from there. 246 00:13:58,400 --> 00:14:01,480 If this goes on, I'm scared Cristóbal might want to design from Madrid 247 00:14:01,560 --> 00:14:03,320 or San Sebastián. 248 00:14:03,400 --> 00:14:04,680 What can I do? 249 00:14:04,760 --> 00:14:07,880 -WOMAN (IN FRENCH): Hello. -(INDISTINCT CHATTER) 250 00:14:09,080 --> 00:14:10,280 (WHISPERS) 251 00:14:10,360 --> 00:14:11,880 (INTRIGUING MUSIC) 252 00:14:20,640 --> 00:14:22,680 (IN SPANISH) See how they look at her. 253 00:14:25,080 --> 00:14:26,600 (WHISPERS) 254 00:14:26,680 --> 00:14:29,360 They can't stand how French women dress. 255 00:14:31,160 --> 00:14:32,600 I'm scared of them. 256 00:14:33,240 --> 00:14:36,160 Don't you feel like we're on a tightrope? 257 00:14:37,320 --> 00:14:38,720 What do you mean? 258 00:14:40,440 --> 00:14:43,200 That... it could be us, suddenly. 259 00:14:43,800 --> 00:14:45,720 I don't know... like the Jews. 260 00:14:46,760 --> 00:14:49,720 So they start persecuting anyone who that is out of the norm. 261 00:14:51,360 --> 00:14:53,440 Homosexuals, antifascists... 262 00:14:54,800 --> 00:14:55,840 Who knows. 263 00:14:56,680 --> 00:14:59,000 BIZKARRONDO: I have a fake passport, just in case. 264 00:14:59,080 --> 00:15:02,040 In case they feel like deporting anti-Francoists. 265 00:15:05,480 --> 00:15:07,280 How's your sentence going? 266 00:15:09,640 --> 00:15:11,120 There's no answer yet. 267 00:15:12,720 --> 00:15:14,320 My lawyer asked me to write a letter 268 00:15:14,400 --> 00:15:16,360 where I regret everything I did 269 00:15:16,440 --> 00:15:18,040 and declare that I've changed my mind. 270 00:15:18,800 --> 00:15:20,200 Fucking hell. 271 00:15:20,920 --> 00:15:22,280 What will you do? 272 00:15:22,360 --> 00:15:23,800 Refuse, obviously. 273 00:15:24,760 --> 00:15:26,560 I'm not gonna play by Franco's rules. 274 00:15:31,600 --> 00:15:34,920 BALENCIAGA - EISA MADRID 1943 275 00:15:42,200 --> 00:15:46,280 WOMAN: Number 25. 276 00:15:55,800 --> 00:15:59,600 (IN ENGLISH) Number 26. 277 00:15:59,680 --> 00:16:02,560 (IN SPANISH) Number 26. 278 00:16:02,640 --> 00:16:04,440 (IN ENGLISH) Number 26. 279 00:16:07,840 --> 00:16:11,440 JUAN (IN BASQUE): They didn't show the same enthusiasm as before, 280 00:16:11,520 --> 00:16:13,880 but that doesn't mean they didn't like it. 281 00:16:13,960 --> 00:16:16,200 Otherwise, they wouldn't have bought a license. 282 00:16:16,280 --> 00:16:17,840 Juan Martín, please. 283 00:16:17,920 --> 00:16:20,160 He only pointed out the hats. 284 00:16:20,240 --> 00:16:22,000 -JUAN: Is that a bad thing? -CRISTÓBAL: Exactly. 285 00:16:22,080 --> 00:16:25,040 He points out the hats to avoid talking about my designs. 286 00:16:25,920 --> 00:16:27,960 The hats are part of your designs. 287 00:16:28,760 --> 00:16:30,800 They were your idea, Cristóbal. 288 00:16:30,880 --> 00:16:33,720 Yes, but I didn't design them. 289 00:16:36,200 --> 00:16:39,240 They were pointed out because they stand out. 290 00:16:39,840 --> 00:16:41,680 You know how Americans are. 291 00:16:43,240 --> 00:16:46,880 LET'S SEE IF YOU LIKE IT. WLADZIO. 292 00:16:49,720 --> 00:16:51,520 (INTRIGUING MUSIC) 293 00:16:58,480 --> 00:17:00,120 (HORN HONKS) 294 00:17:08,800 --> 00:17:11,240 (INDISTINCT CHATTER) 295 00:17:28,680 --> 00:17:29,840 (IN BASQUE) What? 296 00:17:29,920 --> 00:17:31,080 Nothing. 297 00:17:32,360 --> 00:17:33,720 AGUSTINA: How are things over there? 298 00:17:35,400 --> 00:17:36,880 The Germans are getting more strict. 299 00:17:38,520 --> 00:17:40,000 They're taking everything. 300 00:17:42,080 --> 00:17:45,000 Now that things are better here, why don't you come back? 301 00:17:46,120 --> 00:17:49,000 Why do you have to stay in Paris all alone? 302 00:17:49,080 --> 00:17:51,320 You would be better here. 303 00:17:51,400 --> 00:17:53,880 Mom, leave Cristóbal alone. 304 00:17:53,960 --> 00:17:56,680 I'm just worried. 305 00:17:57,800 --> 00:18:01,520 Mom, we can't abandon Nicolás and Virgilia. 306 00:18:02,280 --> 00:18:04,200 We have to hold on a little longer. 307 00:18:04,760 --> 00:18:07,400 When the war is over, everything will go back to normal. 308 00:18:08,120 --> 00:18:12,880 Well, that depends on who wins, right? 309 00:18:14,240 --> 00:18:15,680 (KNOCKING AT DOOR) 310 00:18:18,040 --> 00:18:19,400 (IN FRENCH) Good morning, madam. 311 00:18:19,480 --> 00:18:21,480 Good morning. Your invitation? 312 00:18:21,560 --> 00:18:23,800 We're from the General Dressmaking Committee. 313 00:18:24,520 --> 00:18:26,200 We'd like to see the manager. 314 00:18:27,040 --> 00:18:28,160 Good morning. 315 00:18:29,520 --> 00:18:30,880 What's going on? 316 00:18:32,160 --> 00:18:33,600 (RAPID FOOTSTEPS) 317 00:18:38,320 --> 00:18:41,880 Sir, an officer from the General Dressmaking Committee. 318 00:18:41,960 --> 00:18:43,720 It's an inspection. 319 00:18:44,360 --> 00:18:47,120 Tell Mr. Bizkarrondo to take care of the Spanish fabrics. 320 00:18:47,520 --> 00:18:49,280 (SUSPENSEFUL MUSIC) 321 00:18:49,360 --> 00:18:51,320 -BIZKARRONDO: Hurry. -MAN: Be careful. 322 00:18:52,040 --> 00:18:54,720 BIZKARRONDO: Hide them, so they don't see them. 323 00:18:54,800 --> 00:18:57,400 MAN: Be careful with the fabrics. 324 00:18:59,320 --> 00:19:01,680 -Okay. -BIZKARRONDO: Hurry. 325 00:19:01,760 --> 00:19:02,880 MAN: Hurry. 326 00:19:04,440 --> 00:19:06,920 -JUAN (IN BASQUE): Safe travels. -Thank you, bye. 327 00:19:07,000 --> 00:19:08,560 JUAN: Bye, Cristóbal. 328 00:19:16,000 --> 00:19:17,480 -(IN FRENCH) Good day, sir. -Good morning. 329 00:19:19,800 --> 00:19:21,800 (SUSPENSEFUL MUSIC) 330 00:19:26,480 --> 00:19:27,960 Come with me, please. 331 00:19:28,040 --> 00:19:30,120 -Is there a problem? -Come with me, please. 332 00:19:37,360 --> 00:19:38,880 (INDISTINCT CHATTER) 333 00:19:40,040 --> 00:19:41,960 -(IN FRENCH) Where's Renée? -There. 334 00:19:42,840 --> 00:19:45,800 -Renée, the book. -Yes. 335 00:19:48,280 --> 00:19:49,720 (CHATTER CONTINUES) 336 00:19:52,400 --> 00:19:53,400 (IN SPANISH) It's done. 337 00:19:54,680 --> 00:19:57,520 BIZKARRONDO (IN SPANISH): Cristóbal in Madrid. Fucking hell. 338 00:20:01,640 --> 00:20:02,920 (IN FRENCH) Your papers, please. 339 00:20:05,040 --> 00:20:07,440 I already showed them to your assistant. 340 00:20:07,520 --> 00:20:09,520 Your papers, please. 341 00:20:19,600 --> 00:20:22,400 (SUSPENSEFUL MUSIC INTENSIFIES) 342 00:20:23,520 --> 00:20:26,920 You must have great connections in the Spanish Embassy 343 00:20:27,000 --> 00:20:29,160 in order to get this visa. 344 00:20:45,520 --> 00:20:47,880 -WLADZIO: Sir? -Why do you make these hats? 345 00:20:50,800 --> 00:20:52,600 WLADZIO: Sorry, I don't understand. 346 00:20:53,840 --> 00:20:58,120 The hats, why are they so dramatic? 347 00:20:58,720 --> 00:21:00,000 There's no need for it. 348 00:21:00,080 --> 00:21:04,440 It's part of the general concept of this collection. 349 00:21:05,120 --> 00:21:08,120 It's part of the house's brand. 350 00:21:12,480 --> 00:21:14,720 I will need your record book. 351 00:21:14,800 --> 00:21:16,920 Of course, here you go. 352 00:21:17,880 --> 00:21:21,840 COMMISSIONER: The Paris Police Department has sent this to us. 353 00:21:21,920 --> 00:21:23,880 A report about you. 354 00:21:26,280 --> 00:21:29,480 You own a high fashion Maison? 355 00:21:29,560 --> 00:21:30,600 Yes. 356 00:21:35,120 --> 00:21:37,800 Exiled during the Spanish Civil War, 357 00:21:37,880 --> 00:21:40,920 you arrived in 1937. 358 00:21:41,000 --> 00:21:43,280 You settled here. 359 00:21:43,360 --> 00:21:44,760 But you are Spanish. 360 00:21:44,840 --> 00:21:46,440 Not exactly exiled. 361 00:21:46,880 --> 00:21:48,280 It's not like that. 362 00:21:49,000 --> 00:21:50,160 Yes. 363 00:21:54,240 --> 00:21:56,360 Things are going well for you. 364 00:21:57,800 --> 00:21:58,800 Right? 365 00:22:00,480 --> 00:22:01,840 Who is... 366 00:22:01,920 --> 00:22:06,800 Wladyslaw Jaworowski d'Attainville? 367 00:22:07,880 --> 00:22:10,400 Also named Wladzio d'Attainville. 368 00:22:11,640 --> 00:22:13,440 He's your business partner? 369 00:22:13,520 --> 00:22:14,800 CRISTÓBAL: That's it. 370 00:22:16,960 --> 00:22:18,520 He's more than that, right? 371 00:22:19,160 --> 00:22:20,360 Excuse me? 372 00:22:22,600 --> 00:22:27,040 It says here that you are a known queer. 373 00:22:34,160 --> 00:22:36,480 He's more than that, yes or no? 374 00:22:37,800 --> 00:22:38,960 Listen, 375 00:22:39,440 --> 00:22:43,240 I won't allow you to ask this sort of question. 376 00:22:44,600 --> 00:22:45,600 Answer me. 377 00:22:50,640 --> 00:22:51,680 No. 378 00:22:52,160 --> 00:22:53,440 He's a friend. 379 00:22:58,360 --> 00:22:59,360 Of course. 380 00:23:09,360 --> 00:23:11,040 Anything to declare? 381 00:23:11,120 --> 00:23:13,840 Are you bringing anything into France from Spain? 382 00:23:14,440 --> 00:23:15,480 No. 383 00:23:16,120 --> 00:23:17,160 Nothing. 384 00:23:18,720 --> 00:23:20,200 COMMISSIONER: Are you sure? 385 00:23:20,880 --> 00:23:21,920 Yes. 386 00:23:24,360 --> 00:23:25,760 Very well. 387 00:23:25,840 --> 00:23:29,320 Now, walk into that room and undress. 388 00:23:31,560 --> 00:23:32,560 Pardon? 389 00:23:34,120 --> 00:23:38,400 Walk into that room with my assistant and get undressed. 390 00:24:00,680 --> 00:24:02,200 ASSISTANT: Take your clothes off. 391 00:24:13,240 --> 00:24:16,520 (SOMBER MUSIC) 392 00:24:29,640 --> 00:24:32,400 BIZKARRONDO (IN SPANISH): They took the record book and left. 393 00:24:33,760 --> 00:24:34,920 That's it? 394 00:24:35,000 --> 00:24:36,360 Nothing else? 395 00:24:37,240 --> 00:24:38,440 It seems they were only interested 396 00:24:38,520 --> 00:24:40,880 in the number of designs and meters of fabric. 397 00:24:43,320 --> 00:24:45,240 How many times have they inspected us? 398 00:24:46,160 --> 00:24:49,320 WLADZIO: I wouldn't be surprised if a competitor was accusing us. 399 00:24:49,880 --> 00:24:52,400 They hate that we have better fabric. 400 00:24:52,960 --> 00:24:55,280 CRISTÓBAL: Did they find the Spanish fabrics? 401 00:24:55,800 --> 00:24:57,160 We hid them, just in case. 402 00:25:01,760 --> 00:25:02,920 I don't know. 403 00:25:04,200 --> 00:25:05,560 I don't like it. 404 00:25:06,040 --> 00:25:07,960 We did miss you. 405 00:25:08,960 --> 00:25:11,240 We didn't know how to answer some questions. 406 00:25:12,840 --> 00:25:15,000 What did you want me to do, Nicolás? 407 00:25:15,080 --> 00:25:16,760 We had the showcase in Madrid. 408 00:25:17,240 --> 00:25:18,720 We had to take care of the Americans, 409 00:25:18,800 --> 00:25:21,480 the department store representatives, the press! 410 00:25:23,360 --> 00:25:25,000 So you talk to the press there? 411 00:25:27,000 --> 00:25:29,520 Even if I don't talk to them, I have to be there. 412 00:25:35,440 --> 00:25:38,200 (SIREN BLARING) 413 00:25:45,480 --> 00:25:49,280 (LOUDSPEAKERS BROADCAST HITLER'S VOICE) 414 00:25:52,600 --> 00:25:54,520 -Wladzio! -Sorry for being late. 415 00:25:54,600 --> 00:25:56,280 I forgot there are no taxis in Paris. 416 00:25:56,360 --> 00:25:57,760 You scared me. 417 00:25:57,840 --> 00:25:59,640 I was thinking that something had happened. 418 00:26:11,720 --> 00:26:14,400 CRISTÓBAL: I don't know if we should make plans together. 419 00:26:14,960 --> 00:26:15,960 WLADZIO: Why? 420 00:26:17,400 --> 00:26:19,880 You've been weird since you came back. 421 00:26:27,560 --> 00:26:30,560 Look. Our Coco. 422 00:26:31,960 --> 00:26:34,560 People say she's seeing a German officer. 423 00:26:34,640 --> 00:26:35,840 Really? 424 00:26:35,920 --> 00:26:38,400 Yes, much younger than her. 425 00:26:39,840 --> 00:26:43,280 Apparently, they spend the entire day in her room at the Ritz. 426 00:26:44,200 --> 00:26:45,480 Right. 427 00:26:46,200 --> 00:26:47,520 Shall we go? 428 00:26:49,440 --> 00:26:50,680 Yeah. 429 00:26:53,320 --> 00:26:54,320 CRISTÓBAL: Wait. 430 00:26:54,400 --> 00:26:55,640 (IN FRENCH) Good evening. 431 00:26:55,720 --> 00:26:58,120 I'd like to buy the Coco Chanel portrait. 432 00:26:58,200 --> 00:27:00,040 -Is it for sale? -Yes, sir. 433 00:27:01,080 --> 00:27:02,280 It's 2,000 francs. 434 00:27:03,240 --> 00:27:04,360 Okay, perfect. 435 00:27:04,840 --> 00:27:06,280 (IN SPANISH) You're buying it? 436 00:27:07,400 --> 00:27:08,720 Really, Cristóbal? 437 00:27:10,160 --> 00:27:14,320 (IN FRENCH) I'd like to send it to the Ritz Hotel. 438 00:27:15,600 --> 00:27:19,040 It's a gift for Miss Chanel. 439 00:27:23,760 --> 00:27:25,360 CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH): Shall we? 440 00:27:25,440 --> 00:27:27,080 What was that about? 441 00:27:28,080 --> 00:27:30,720 Coco is my friend. I wanted to do something nice. 442 00:27:30,800 --> 00:27:31,920 Nice? 443 00:27:32,000 --> 00:27:34,880 After I told you she's seeing a German officer? 444 00:27:34,960 --> 00:27:37,360 She's always helped me in San Sebastián 445 00:27:37,440 --> 00:27:39,840 and when we arrived in Paris as well, remember? 446 00:27:39,920 --> 00:27:41,400 Yes, but Cristóbal... 447 00:27:41,480 --> 00:27:44,360 I never judged my friend's political opinions 448 00:27:44,440 --> 00:27:45,840 or my client's. 449 00:27:45,920 --> 00:27:47,440 I don't understand you. 450 00:27:47,520 --> 00:27:50,080 It's like you live on another planet. 451 00:27:50,160 --> 00:27:53,600 Eventually, you have to stop ignoring certain things. 452 00:27:53,680 --> 00:27:56,480 We can't turn a blind eye to what's happening. 453 00:27:58,800 --> 00:28:03,080 I think you're spending too much time with Nicolás lately, Wladzio. 454 00:28:04,880 --> 00:28:08,640 GUETARIA CRISTÓBAL'S HOMETOWN 455 00:28:09,640 --> 00:28:11,720 CRISTÓBAL: Chanel, with a German officer? 456 00:28:12,440 --> 00:28:14,080 I didn't find it weird. 457 00:28:14,160 --> 00:28:17,800 People deny the relationship between the French and the Germans. 458 00:28:17,880 --> 00:28:20,120 But I assure you, the relationship existed. 459 00:28:21,000 --> 00:28:25,120 Everything was much more confusing than how it might seem now. 460 00:28:27,120 --> 00:28:29,600 You mean to say that you didn't care 461 00:28:29,680 --> 00:28:32,360 if the Germans or the Allies won? 462 00:28:32,440 --> 00:28:33,440 No! 463 00:28:34,120 --> 00:28:37,160 Of course I was glad that the Germans lost. 464 00:28:39,080 --> 00:28:41,040 Our business is different. 465 00:28:42,400 --> 00:28:46,040 High fashion has always served the elite class. 466 00:28:47,360 --> 00:28:51,360 It wasn't about resistance or collaboration. 467 00:28:53,120 --> 00:28:55,000 It was about survival. 468 00:29:05,720 --> 00:29:07,200 (IN FRENCH) In Harper's Bazaar, 469 00:29:07,280 --> 00:29:11,160 they pointed out how extravagant the hats were in Madrid. 470 00:29:13,600 --> 00:29:15,840 Nothing else? 471 00:29:16,880 --> 00:29:18,280 Just the hats? 472 00:29:21,720 --> 00:29:24,920 (IN SPANISH) I'm thinking of making less extravagant hats. 473 00:29:25,400 --> 00:29:26,400 Why? 474 00:29:27,440 --> 00:29:32,640 I don't know, I feel like they're overshadowing the designs... 475 00:29:39,440 --> 00:29:42,320 (IN FRENCH) Of course, with such innovative designs... 476 00:29:44,760 --> 00:29:46,760 What? What do you mean? 477 00:29:46,840 --> 00:29:48,560 (IN SPANISH) I don't know if I see something worthy 478 00:29:48,640 --> 00:29:50,680 of being overshadowed, no offense. 479 00:29:50,760 --> 00:29:53,560 Parisian designers have slowed down. 480 00:29:54,080 --> 00:29:55,960 You're all making the same things. 481 00:29:56,800 --> 00:29:59,560 You apply the same technique and call it style 482 00:29:59,640 --> 00:30:01,560 when you use Spanish or Greek themes. 483 00:30:02,200 --> 00:30:03,360 That's not style. 484 00:30:03,880 --> 00:30:06,120 That's a costume party theme. 485 00:30:06,200 --> 00:30:08,560 Thanks for explaining what fashion is. 486 00:30:08,640 --> 00:30:10,880 I hadn't realized before. 487 00:30:10,960 --> 00:30:12,240 (LAUGHS SARCASTICALLY) 488 00:30:15,520 --> 00:30:18,120 At least I see something here. 489 00:30:18,200 --> 00:30:19,200 CRISTÓBAL: Thank God. 490 00:30:19,280 --> 00:30:23,080 -You know where to look for your style? -I don't know, explain it to me. 491 00:30:23,880 --> 00:30:25,240 In your technique. 492 00:30:25,760 --> 00:30:27,920 That's how you create a new style. 493 00:30:28,000 --> 00:30:29,440 (IN FRENCH) Your technique. 494 00:30:29,520 --> 00:30:30,520 Gothic, for example. 495 00:30:31,280 --> 00:30:33,280 It wasn't invented because someone decided 496 00:30:33,360 --> 00:30:36,320 to add color to stained glass. 497 00:30:36,880 --> 00:30:40,000 It was invented because someone managed 498 00:30:40,080 --> 00:30:41,800 to redesign the shapes 499 00:30:41,880 --> 00:30:43,360 and distribute the weight 500 00:30:43,440 --> 00:30:45,640 so that the walls could have big holes in them. 501 00:30:46,520 --> 00:30:49,440 I don't know how to apply that to fashion, 502 00:30:49,520 --> 00:30:51,000 but I know you do. 503 00:30:51,560 --> 00:30:52,760 (IN SPANISH) What do you want me to do? 504 00:30:53,920 --> 00:30:56,040 For example, the waist. 505 00:30:56,120 --> 00:30:58,480 Why is it always here 506 00:30:59,040 --> 00:31:01,040 and not lower or higher? 507 00:31:01,120 --> 00:31:02,640 Or don't make the waist. 508 00:31:03,320 --> 00:31:05,240 Just like necklines in jackets, 509 00:31:05,320 --> 00:31:07,600 why are they always close to the nape? 510 00:31:09,440 --> 00:31:12,760 I don't know what I'm saying because I don't do this. 511 00:31:12,840 --> 00:31:16,760 But I can recognize when someone is offering me something different. 512 00:31:18,640 --> 00:31:21,080 And I know this isn't the best moment, 513 00:31:21,160 --> 00:31:22,960 but this war will end. 514 00:31:23,920 --> 00:31:27,000 You will have to reconsider where you want to be, 515 00:31:27,080 --> 00:31:28,320 making pretty chapels... 516 00:31:29,280 --> 00:31:30,760 or big cathedrals? 517 00:31:33,120 --> 00:31:35,880 CRISTÓBAL: Wladzio knew how to stimulate me. 518 00:31:36,720 --> 00:31:39,560 He had a huge intuition. 519 00:31:39,640 --> 00:31:42,160 He was the only one who was honest with me. 520 00:31:43,800 --> 00:31:45,160 Do you miss him? 521 00:31:46,520 --> 00:31:49,160 (MELANCHOLIC MUSIC) 522 00:31:49,240 --> 00:31:50,360 Yes, of course. 523 00:31:51,200 --> 00:31:54,600 He was essential to me, we worked together 20 years. 524 00:31:57,560 --> 00:31:58,760 We lived through... 525 00:32:00,240 --> 00:32:01,440 difficult times. 526 00:32:01,520 --> 00:32:05,200 WARNING DO NOT ENTER 527 00:32:10,920 --> 00:32:13,320 (IN FRENCH) "The Dressmaking Committee declares, 528 00:32:13,400 --> 00:32:15,320 effective immediately, 529 00:32:15,400 --> 00:32:18,040 the indefinite shutdown of Maison Balenciaga." 530 00:32:19,520 --> 00:32:21,880 They came in and kicked us out. 531 00:32:21,960 --> 00:32:24,640 -There was nothing we could do. -Did they say why? 532 00:32:26,040 --> 00:32:28,560 -They had to say something! -I'm afraid not. 533 00:32:29,760 --> 00:32:31,760 RENÉE: I'm not sure, I was scared. 534 00:32:33,920 --> 00:32:35,000 (IN SPANISH) I'll find out. 535 00:32:35,080 --> 00:32:36,320 All of you, go home. 536 00:32:36,880 --> 00:32:38,200 (IN FRENCH) Go home! 537 00:32:38,280 --> 00:32:41,120 (INDISTINCT CHATTER) 538 00:32:46,600 --> 00:32:48,000 (IN SPANISH) What are you doing? 539 00:32:50,120 --> 00:32:53,600 If they went to the Maison, they could come here anytime. 540 00:32:55,000 --> 00:32:56,120 But why? 541 00:32:57,760 --> 00:32:59,400 We don't know why they shut us down. 542 00:32:59,480 --> 00:33:01,960 It won't help if they know we sleep together. 543 00:33:04,880 --> 00:33:07,120 You think that's why they shut us down? 544 00:33:07,200 --> 00:33:08,920 I don't know, or because... 545 00:33:09,000 --> 00:33:12,600 they know we bring fabrics from Spain or it's Bizkarrondo's sentence. 546 00:33:14,120 --> 00:33:15,400 He's taking too long. 547 00:33:15,480 --> 00:33:16,640 (DOORBELL RINGS) 548 00:33:18,760 --> 00:33:20,480 -BIZKARRONDO: It's the hats. -WLADZIO: What? 549 00:33:20,560 --> 00:33:23,000 BIZKARRONDO (IN FRENCH): "Dressmaking Committee notification. 550 00:33:23,080 --> 00:33:25,840 By order of the occupying forces, 551 00:33:25,920 --> 00:33:28,040 Maison Balenciaga is sanctioned 552 00:33:28,120 --> 00:33:31,960 for inciting rebellion through provocative hats. 553 00:33:32,960 --> 00:33:36,320 The Maison will remained closed for three months..." 554 00:33:36,400 --> 00:33:38,440 (IN SPANISH) ...starting on January 22nd. 555 00:33:39,480 --> 00:33:40,920 The hats? 556 00:33:42,440 --> 00:33:45,240 Every other house is doing the same thing. 557 00:33:45,920 --> 00:33:48,600 This will crush next season's sales. 558 00:33:49,160 --> 00:33:51,280 Someone has definitely targeted us. 559 00:33:51,360 --> 00:33:52,680 Shut up, Wladzio! 560 00:33:53,360 --> 00:33:55,280 The reason is obvious! 561 00:33:55,360 --> 00:33:58,280 I should have stopped your little hats. 562 00:33:59,360 --> 00:34:01,320 That was your idea! 563 00:34:01,400 --> 00:34:03,480 I only did what you wanted me to do! 564 00:34:05,160 --> 00:34:06,240 Wladzio is right. 565 00:34:06,960 --> 00:34:10,240 Self-criticism would help you, instead of blaming others. 566 00:34:10,840 --> 00:34:11,960 What? 567 00:34:12,040 --> 00:34:13,360 Yes, Cristóbal. 568 00:34:14,200 --> 00:34:16,560 If you had been in Paris more often 569 00:34:16,640 --> 00:34:19,320 and not so busy traveling, this could have been avoided. 570 00:34:21,400 --> 00:34:22,680 You know what's happening? 571 00:34:23,880 --> 00:34:26,440 You can't go back to Spain, and you're jealous of me. 572 00:34:27,200 --> 00:34:29,480 Well, that's not my fault. 573 00:34:29,560 --> 00:34:31,440 Should have stayed out of politics. 574 00:34:32,520 --> 00:34:33,520 Right. 575 00:34:34,040 --> 00:34:37,120 It's better if no one in your life knows if you're... 576 00:34:37,200 --> 00:34:39,080 a democrat, a Francoist or a Nazi. 577 00:34:39,640 --> 00:34:42,000 I have no idea what you are, Cristóbal. 578 00:34:42,960 --> 00:34:43,960 Huh? 579 00:34:44,640 --> 00:34:46,160 What are you, Cristóbal? 580 00:34:46,240 --> 00:34:47,680 I'm apolitical. 581 00:34:48,200 --> 00:34:49,520 I have every right. 582 00:34:49,600 --> 00:34:50,640 I have a right to be political! 583 00:34:50,720 --> 00:34:52,440 Not in this business! 584 00:34:53,040 --> 00:34:55,360 Don't you see that everything is politics? 585 00:34:56,000 --> 00:34:57,560 Even a hat is politics! 586 00:35:02,800 --> 00:35:06,280 (MELANCHOLIC MUSIC) 587 00:35:06,880 --> 00:35:08,240 (MUTTERS) 588 00:35:19,600 --> 00:35:23,000 JANUARY, 1944 VICHY 589 00:35:23,080 --> 00:35:25,920 FRENCH GOVERNMENT OFFICES DURING THE OCCUPATION 590 00:35:26,000 --> 00:35:29,560 SPANISH EMBASSY 591 00:35:36,280 --> 00:35:38,160 It seems you're being blamed for the trend 592 00:35:38,240 --> 00:35:41,200 in the street lately of wearing big hats. 593 00:35:42,800 --> 00:35:44,200 Plain and simple. 594 00:35:46,640 --> 00:35:50,240 The Germans consider it a threat against the austerity they're imposing. 595 00:35:50,720 --> 00:35:51,880 Excuse me, 596 00:35:52,480 --> 00:35:55,200 are hats that important? 597 00:35:55,280 --> 00:35:56,320 It's a warning. 598 00:35:56,840 --> 00:36:00,360 You start with big hats, and you don't know where that could lead. 599 00:36:00,440 --> 00:36:03,640 But why punish the Maison for it? 600 00:36:07,200 --> 00:36:08,600 Mr. Bizkarrondo. 601 00:36:14,560 --> 00:36:18,040 I've heard that you've been sentenced to pay 100,000 pesetas 602 00:36:18,120 --> 00:36:21,840 for your clearly antipatriotic views before the war. 603 00:36:22,920 --> 00:36:25,360 What does that have to do with this issue? 604 00:36:26,040 --> 00:36:27,040 Everything. 605 00:36:28,960 --> 00:36:29,960 Everything. 606 00:36:30,800 --> 00:36:34,600 As you understand, Spain won't intervene for a dissident. 607 00:36:35,160 --> 00:36:37,560 This sentence is due to my former views. 608 00:36:37,640 --> 00:36:39,600 I haven't been in politics for a long time. 609 00:36:42,920 --> 00:36:44,200 Yes, but... 610 00:36:44,720 --> 00:36:46,600 you have the same opinions, right? 611 00:36:50,000 --> 00:36:51,000 No. 612 00:36:52,000 --> 00:36:54,040 No, I'm actually writing a letter 613 00:36:54,120 --> 00:36:56,520 for the Spanish authorities about my changes 614 00:36:56,600 --> 00:36:59,800 and how critical I am of the views I used to defend. 615 00:37:09,160 --> 00:37:11,920 Well, I'm glad, I'm glad. 616 00:37:12,760 --> 00:37:15,080 I guess everyone has the right to change. 617 00:37:31,760 --> 00:37:33,320 That's the end of my principles. 618 00:37:59,440 --> 00:38:00,960 WLADZIO: When did you get here? 619 00:38:01,960 --> 00:38:03,520 Early in the afternoon. 620 00:38:04,200 --> 00:38:06,480 The Ambassador has spoken with the Minister of Industry 621 00:38:06,560 --> 00:38:08,280 and has reopened the Maison. 622 00:38:08,760 --> 00:38:11,080 But we can't make hats for three months. 623 00:38:11,920 --> 00:38:13,160 Only dresses. 624 00:38:13,960 --> 00:38:14,960 I'm sorry. 625 00:38:15,640 --> 00:38:17,280 For you and the hats. 626 00:38:21,760 --> 00:38:23,640 You're really sorry? 627 00:38:30,960 --> 00:38:33,280 Then why are you smiling? 628 00:38:34,520 --> 00:38:35,720 (LAUGHS NERVOUSLY) 629 00:38:40,600 --> 00:38:41,760 Apologize to me. 630 00:38:45,520 --> 00:38:46,520 I'm sorry. 631 00:38:47,480 --> 00:38:50,080 A bit more sincerely, please. 632 00:38:52,320 --> 00:38:53,640 Apologize to me. 633 00:38:55,640 --> 00:38:56,680 I'm sorry. 634 00:39:02,400 --> 00:39:04,960 (IN FRENCH) Tough luck, dummy. 635 00:39:17,040 --> 00:39:19,560 (INDISTINCT ANNOUNCEMENT OVER SPEAKER) 636 00:39:19,640 --> 00:39:22,240 VOICE ON THE RADIO: Paris, Paris violated... 637 00:39:23,320 --> 00:39:26,960 Paris, broken, Paris, martyr... 638 00:39:27,760 --> 00:39:30,440 but Paris... free. 639 00:39:31,640 --> 00:39:33,960 Freed by itself. 640 00:39:34,040 --> 00:39:36,560 Freed by its people! 641 00:39:36,640 --> 00:39:38,240 (CHEERING AND APPLAUDING) 642 00:39:38,320 --> 00:39:40,240 AUGUST 19TH 1944 END OF THE OCCUPATION 643 00:39:45,760 --> 00:39:47,400 MAN: What's the matter? 644 00:39:50,000 --> 00:39:51,880 (MELANCHOLIC MUSIC) 645 00:40:17,160 --> 00:40:19,680 (PEOPLE SING FRENCH ANTHEM) 646 00:40:22,720 --> 00:40:24,080 (DOOR OPENS) 647 00:40:24,160 --> 00:40:25,320 CRISTÓBAL (IN FRENCH): Hello. 648 00:40:26,080 --> 00:40:27,120 Thanks for seeing me. 649 00:40:27,200 --> 00:40:29,560 Miss Renée has told me you insisted on seeing me. 650 00:40:30,240 --> 00:40:31,720 Yes, I... 651 00:40:35,000 --> 00:40:36,360 Did you hear the news? 652 00:40:37,520 --> 00:40:40,240 Gunther has returned to Germany. 653 00:40:44,360 --> 00:40:45,760 I've come to say goodbye. 654 00:40:49,640 --> 00:40:51,520 I doubt I'll come back. 655 00:40:52,160 --> 00:40:54,000 It was nice while it lasted. 656 00:40:57,840 --> 00:40:59,800 Do you think we're safe? 657 00:41:00,840 --> 00:41:02,120 What will happen to us? 658 00:41:03,760 --> 00:41:04,760 To who? 659 00:41:05,360 --> 00:41:06,400 To us! 660 00:41:06,480 --> 00:41:08,560 You and I, who support the Germans. 661 00:41:11,200 --> 00:41:13,080 I'm afraid you're mistaken. 662 00:41:15,120 --> 00:41:18,640 Maison Balenciaga has never aligned itself politically with anyone. 663 00:41:24,160 --> 00:41:25,360 I understand. 664 00:41:26,640 --> 00:41:28,560 I brought you a gift. 665 00:41:31,440 --> 00:41:33,480 -No, no. -It's just cheese. 666 00:41:33,560 --> 00:41:34,840 It smells delicious. 667 00:41:35,360 --> 00:41:36,920 I'm sure it tastes great. 668 00:41:37,000 --> 00:41:39,480 But I never accept gifts, 669 00:41:39,560 --> 00:41:41,040 although I am grateful. 670 00:41:42,560 --> 00:41:44,440 My family makes it. 671 00:41:44,960 --> 00:41:46,160 It's really good. 672 00:41:46,240 --> 00:41:47,920 I'd like you to accept it. 673 00:41:49,240 --> 00:41:50,920 I'm sorry. 674 00:41:51,320 --> 00:41:53,920 But... I can't accept it. 675 00:42:11,880 --> 00:42:12,880 (DOOR CLOSES) 676 00:42:35,320 --> 00:42:36,640 (SNIFFS) 677 00:42:49,600 --> 00:42:52,480 (UPBEAT MUSIC PLAYS) 678 00:43:05,120 --> 00:43:07,080 (INDISTINCT CHATTER, LAUGHTER) 679 00:43:20,120 --> 00:43:21,720 (IN SPANISH) We aren't a company 680 00:43:21,800 --> 00:43:24,280 that should be celebrating the liberation of Paris. 681 00:43:27,920 --> 00:43:31,880 We haven't done anything we should regret, Nicolás. 682 00:43:33,520 --> 00:43:34,840 We have worked hard. 683 00:43:35,400 --> 00:43:39,080 And we've helped our clients silently, like we always have. 684 00:43:40,680 --> 00:43:42,160 Some silences are guilty. 685 00:43:43,600 --> 00:43:44,960 So I'm guilty. 686 00:43:49,080 --> 00:43:50,440 CRISTÓBAL: The company still stands. 687 00:43:51,520 --> 00:43:53,280 No one lost their job. 688 00:43:53,360 --> 00:43:54,920 That's what matters, right? 689 00:43:59,560 --> 00:44:01,120 (IN BASQUE) Thank you, Cristóbal. 690 00:44:02,480 --> 00:44:06,200 (IN SPANISH) I know you've been tempted to leave the Maison and go home. 691 00:44:08,240 --> 00:44:10,000 And I'd like to think that... 692 00:44:10,560 --> 00:44:12,800 you've stayed in part for Virgilia and me. 693 00:44:16,480 --> 00:44:17,480 A toast to that. 694 00:44:17,560 --> 00:44:19,000 (GLASSES CLINK) 695 00:44:41,440 --> 00:44:42,440 You know? 696 00:44:43,400 --> 00:44:44,800 As soon as the war ended, 697 00:44:44,880 --> 00:44:48,240 it was immediately forbidden to wear military uniforms 698 00:44:48,320 --> 00:44:50,240 or symbols of the Third Reich. 699 00:44:52,680 --> 00:44:56,480 The uniforms became children's coats. 700 00:44:58,000 --> 00:45:02,160 And the flags with the swastika became aprons. 701 00:45:03,560 --> 00:45:04,960 PRUDENCE: That's good. 702 00:45:05,040 --> 00:45:06,800 CRISTÓBAL: I don't disagree, but... 703 00:45:08,520 --> 00:45:11,280 I always thought about how the fabrics 704 00:45:11,360 --> 00:45:15,640 that had been used for those uniforms and flags 705 00:45:15,720 --> 00:45:17,320 were still there. 706 00:45:18,320 --> 00:45:20,680 CRISTÓBAL: The symbols were gone, but... 707 00:45:21,760 --> 00:45:24,040 the fabrics they had been made with... 708 00:45:24,680 --> 00:45:26,040 remained. 709 00:45:27,160 --> 00:45:30,240 Dressing the children, for example. 710 00:45:31,640 --> 00:45:33,360 Do you understand what I mean? 711 00:45:34,920 --> 00:45:36,360 I'm not sure. 712 00:45:40,320 --> 00:45:44,240 I told you, if you haven't lived through it, it's hard to understand. 713 00:45:50,280 --> 00:45:51,600 Shall we take a walk? 714 00:45:51,680 --> 00:45:52,760 Sure. 715 00:46:06,320 --> 00:46:10,160 (INDISTINCT CHATTER) 716 00:46:13,400 --> 00:46:15,560 (DISTANT CHATTER, LAUGHTER) 717 00:46:23,640 --> 00:46:27,120 (CONTEMPLATIVE MUSIC) 718 00:46:52,000 --> 00:46:53,920 (MUSIC CONTINUES) 719 00:47:40,280 --> 00:47:42,280 Subtitles: Pilar Hernandez