“Balenciaga is the master of us all”. Christian Dior
This series is inspired by the thirty years Cristóbal Balenciaga spent in Paris,
from his beginnings to becoming the king of haute couture.
IN THE PREVIOUS CHAPTER
PRUDENCE: I'd like to talk about the Nazis' arrival in Paris.
It was about survival.
(IN FRENCH) Without fabrics, there's no fashion.
(IN SPANISH) We could bring the fabric from Spain.
You can get a visa.
(IN FRENCH) Come with me, please.
Who is Wladzio D'Attainville?
He's your business partner?
CRISTÓBAL: That's it.
INSPECTOR: He's more than that, right?
WLADZIO (IN SPANISH): Parisian designers have slowed down.
For example, the waist. Why is it always here?
(IN EUSKERA) Mom, we can't abandon Nicolás and Virgilia.
BIZKARRONDO: Maison Balenciaga is sanctioned
for inciting rebellion through provocative hats.
VIRGILIA: We have no other option besides staying open.
We can't go back to Spain.
VOICE ON RADIO: Paris... free.
(HAPPY SHOUTS AND APPLAUSE)
MAN (IN FRENCH): To bring the creations of its designers overseas...
FRENCH FASHION
...Paris has created 180 ambassadors, 180 iron and plaster dolls,
whose mission is to expand the horizons
of the Place Vendôme and the Champs-Élysées.
(SOFT MUSIC)
In a few weeks, in New York...
PARIS 1945 FASHION THEATER
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
(IN FRENCH) So, what do you think, Cristóbal?
You've done a great job, Lucien.
I'm glad you like it.
It's going well.
They've commissioned more exhibitions, in London,
Copenhagen and Barcelona.
It's time for French high fashion to regain its glory.
Let me introduce you to Mr. Dior. Christian...
Mr. Balenciaga. Christian is one of my new recruits.
Nice to meet you. I think I've seen you before.
I worked with Piquet before the war. Nice to meet you, Mr. Balenciaga.
He likes your dresses most of all.
Right, Christian?
-They're incredible. -I'm glad to hear that.
It was a pleasure. If you'll excuse me...
Forgive him.
He really admires you. That's why he's shy.
He doesn't seem very shy.
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
CHRISTMAS 1946 GETARIA
(SEAGULLS CAWING)
PRIEST (IN BASQUE): Cristóbal, it's been a long time.
CRISTÓBAL: Yes.
-PRIEST: How are you? -CRISTÓBAL: I'm well.
For the services in honor of my mother.
PRIEST: Of course. We'll pray for her and all of you.
I'm sure she's watching from the sky and she's happy to see
that you still gather for Christmas.
NOVEMBER 8, 1906 AT 44 APRIL 3, 1944 AT 81
Excuse me for a second.
(IN SPANISH) Excuse me.
Did you want something?
(IN BASQUE) He's with me.
Oh, he's your friend.
I didn't recognize him.
He's my partner, yes.
I'll send Felisa and Inés to Paris for the next collection.
Yes, please.
Felipe will start working with us after Christmas.
(IN SPANISH) So? Excited?
FELIPE: Yes, of course.
-Very well. -JUAN: Starting from scratch,
-like everyone else. -Of course.
JUAN: And you start getting ready.
Yes, you'll have to take over for me, right?
It's a challenge, your father set the standards too high.
-WOMAN: That's true. -(LAUGHTER)
(TRAIN CHUGGING)
WLADZIO (IN FRENCH): What's on your mind?
(SIGHS)
CRISTÓBAL (IN SPANISH): Nothing.
Sometimes I think that since Mom died,
my work is better.
Bolder.
I'm almost ashamed of saying this, but...
You know how much I loved her.
I am who I am, thanks to her.
What do you think?
Do you think I've improved since she's gone?
(IN FRENCH) It's possible, yes.
But that's a good thing, right?
(BIRDS SINGING)
WLADZIO (IN SPANISH): I like it,
but have you gone overboard with the proportions?
You think?
I was thinking of adding even more volume to the back.
WLADZIO: Maybe.
Don't listen to me too much.
By the way, there's a new boy in my workshop.
He's from your land.
He's all right, his name is Ramón.
Young, but solid.
-He'll come in handy. -Why?
WLADZIO: Mitza Bricard is leaving us... to work with Dior.
With Dior?
Christian Dior, the figurine maker?
He's a dressmaker now.
He's cooking up something with Marcel Boussac.
The one from the cotton business.
They say it's going to be revolutionary.
-(SCOFFS) -I'm serious.
That's what Marie-Louise Bousquet says.
And where do you hear these things?
You know.
At those parties you don't want to attend.
PRUDENCE: No parties, no press...
Why do you insist on not showing yourself?
Well, I'm sharing my life with you now.
I can't have insisted that much.
Mr. Balenciaga,
it took me three years to get this interview.
In the end, I had to show up at Chanel's funeral
in a red Balenciaga dress to convince you.
And you haven't even let me take a picture of you.
I let Paris Match do it and I always regretted it.
You've always liked to act mysterious.
I've never liked social nonsense, if that's what you mean.
Did you know some people even claimed that you didn't exist?
That you were some kind of ghost.
CRISTÓBAL: Whatever.
You know what I think?
That all this mystery is deliberate.
A strategy to sell more dresses.
CRISTÓBAL: But the press made that up.
People like you, your colleagues, they made it all up.
I guess they needed something to rival
the hurricane Dior, and they invented me.
The Balenciaga mystery.
FEBRUARY 5, 1947 - PARIS MAISON BALENCIAGA
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
(IN FRENCH) Please, while walking
take short steps, don't smile,
and look over the clients' heads.
-FLORETTE: Ms. Dupré. -DUPRÉ (IN SPANISH): Good morning.
WLADZIO: They're coming, get ready.
Let's go.
(SOFT MUSIC)
FLORETTE: Number one.
(IN ENGLISH) Number one.
(IN FRENCH) Number two.
(IN ENGLISH) Number two.
(IN FRENCH) Number three.
(IN ENGLISH) Number three.
(IN FRENCH) Number six.
(IN ENGLISH) Number six.
(WHISPERING)
WLADZIO: Thank you, go.
Remember, don't smile
and don't look the clients in the eye.
FLORETTE: Number seven.
(IN ENGLISH) Number seven.
(IN SPANISH) How it's going?
I don't see much enthusiasm.
(IN FRENCH) Thank you. Let's go.
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
-(KNOCK ON DOOR) -(IN SPANISH) Yes?
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
-How did it go? -I'm not alone.
(IN FRENCH) She wanted to congratulate you in person.
Mr. Balenciaga,
I hadn't seen something so interesting in a long time.
You keep surprising me.
Your virtuosity is demonstrated in every showcase.
Please, Carmel, don't go that far.
No, I'm serious.
You're a visionary.
You never choose the easy path, that's for sure.
Lots of people won't understand your designs.
But in two seasons, everyone will be copying you.
Good.
I'm glad you liked it.
It's a great compliment coming from you.
Thank you.
No, thank you.
(CHATTER)
FEBRUARY 12, 1947 - PARIS MAISON DIOR
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
The collections is very important to me, very innovative.
I've worked on the fabric's flow, its cut,
that's very important.
-And... -Sorry. Christian, excuse me.
This is Miss Snow.
You're a revolutionary, my dear Christian.
(IN ENGLISH) Your dresses have such a "New Look."
(CLAPPING)
WLADZIO (IN SPANISH): "The big change in Paris' Spring collections
is the change in silhouette.
The mind behind this change and hero of the day is designer Dior."
He's revolutionizing fashion like Poiret did in his time
and Chanel in hers." (LAUGHS)
"A Parisian taxi driver told our reporter,
'I heard Balenciaga finally has a rival'."
I thought Carmel Snow liked our collection.
They need to sell magazines
and these things stand out...
They call this revolutionary?
It looks like everything else to me.
Wasp waist for the trophy woman.
It reminds me of your designs.
-Mine? -Yes.
From the last collection.
There could be something, but...
You think he's copying you?
No, that's nonsense.
But I don't understand these pictures.
I don't get it.
He's not Errol Flynn.
It's the opposite to what I showcased.
-Did I made a mistake? -No.
Your designs are much bolder.
But they need some time...
CREATION AND EVOLUTION
(TELEPHONE RINGING)
(IN FRENCH) Sir, I just spoke with Women's Wear Daily,
they want to hear your opinion on Dior.
-What? -They also called--
Tell them I have nothing to say.
Sir, the Duchess of Windsor just called, remember?
-Five dresses, yes. -Yes.
She cancelled the fittings for tomorrow.
Is she all right?
She's fine, nothing's happened to her.
But she's not the only one.
What are you saying?
Apparently, some of our clients think they look better in Dior.
Don't worry, Florette, he's a one-hit wonder.
They'll come back, trust me.
WOMAN (IN ENGLISH): Incredible.
Good friend of mine went to one of his shows
and she says it was marvelous.
I mean, incredible, overnight, just like that.
To think I didn't know about him.
Yes, incredible.
(IN FRENCH) He was Lelong's figurine maker.
They say he captivated Boussac and he decided to invest.
But success is not that easy.
He lacks experience.
MAN: Dior, Dior, Dior and more Dior.
He's everywhere.
I don't know, I don't like fashion.
Have a nice day.
(OVERLAPPING CHATTER)
(IN BASQUE) That's the one I want.
Isn't it beautiful, Nicolás?
Won't Cristóbal prefer the one with pink embroidery?
He'll love the blue one, trust me.
Yes, that's right.
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
BIZKARRONDO: They have too much money.
VIRGILIA: Look, there he is!
He's taller than I thought.
Hey, he looks like you.
What are you saying?
Did he recognize us?
-He's coming this way. -BIZKARRONDO: You think?
(IN FRENCH) Good evening.
It's a pleasure, I'm Christian Dior.
A pleasure.
Congratulations, it's a great collection.
So elegant, it was beautiful.
Thank you, Mrs. Bizkarrondo.
It's an honor welcoming the owners of Maison Balenciaga.
I heard you liked the blue one?
You have great taste, it's my favorite.
I hope it doesn't pale next to your Balenciagas.
-Say hello to Cristóbal for me. -BIZKARRONDO: Of course.
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
(IN SPANISH) The receipt, the dress will be here in a week.
They already did Virgilia's fitting.
They aren't cheap, but not as expensive as ours.
Mendizábal. You used Virgilia's surname, very well done.
Well.
It was useless, Dior came to greet us.
I told you you'd be recognized.
He'll think we're some cheap spies.
Cristóbal, what's done is done.
So embarrassing, Nicolás.
And what did he say?
BIZKARRONDO: That we have good taste.
And he says hello.
He's a decent man.
And the girls looked beautiful.
Cristóbal, you know I don't get all of this,
but I really liked what I saw.
You said it, Nicolás, you don't get it.
Stay still, woman, you're not dancing.
-Face me. Face me. -Come on.
That's it, right?
How does it feel?
Do you like it?
I love it.
Cristóbal, relax. You look nervous.
I just don't understand his success.
Then stop analyzing him and focus on yourself.
You don't compare.
You're in a different phase.
You've already been where Dior is.
You think you'd be happy making designs like Dior's?
There's only one thing Dior does better.
What is it?
Communicating.
(KNOCK ON DOOR)
CRISTÓBAL: Yes?
Bettina is here.
-Bettina Ballard? -Cristóbal! We invited her!
Oh, yes.
Remember?
Yes, yes.
Well, she's dressed in Dior.
She's unbelievable.
(LAUGHTER)
BALENCIAGA (IN FRENCH): You're all unbelievable.
Did you really think I'd come dressed in Dior?
I have a sense of protocol, dear.
-It wouldn't have bothered me. -WLADZIO: Yeah, right.
Five minutes ago he was dismantling a dress to see how it was made.
Really?
What conclusion did you come to?
He's crazy, crazy!
You wouldn't believe how much fabric he uses on a single dress.
A déjà vu, nothing new.
If that's what the clients want.
The clients want what the press says.
They're just as important as designers.
Isn't that true, Miss Ballard?
"The customer is always right," what does that mean?
In business, whoever pays gets to choose.
We aren't just a business.
BETTINA: Very true.
In your case, we all agree
that your creations, sir, are works of art.
And with that, let's change the subject.
Don't you think Dior is getting rounder?
-What do you mean rounder? -I don't know.
The more successful he is, the more he looks like a market rabbit.
(LAUGHTER)
How did you come up with that?
You're evil.
(LAUGHTER)
He looks fine to me.
(LAUGHTER)
It's true.
A fat rabbit.
BOUSSAC: Page 18.
Balenciaga has very good reviews.
Good, last month it was about us.
Carmel Snow loved our collection.
This isn't good for us.
We have to prove that you are French fashion.
Understood, Marcel.
Understood.
Fashion was terrible during the occupation.
Fashion has to return to the right path,
fulfill its role, make women beautiful.
Mold the natural curves of the female body
in a nostalgic trip to elegance.
Very well. From my understanding,
do you intend to promote your brand in the United States?
Yes, it will be an honor to represent French fashion
on the other side of the Atlantic.
-Thank you, Mr. Dior. -Thank you.
(CAMERA FLASHES CLICKING)
TV HOST: A high fashion bomb.
Skirts get longer, fashion transform in a flash.
The bodies are stylized, the skirts get longer.
This revolution has a proper name, Christian Dior.
The designer will travel to the United States...
(APPLAUSE AND CHEERING)
(IN SPANISH) I can't even go to the cinema.
Instead of designing dresses,
you'd think he'd discovered a life-saving vaccine.
BIZKARRONDO: Why is Dior everywhere and we aren't?
You know, Boussac pulls the strings...
Yeah, right.
But regardless of Boussac, Dior has to respond.
It's a matter of attitude.
I don't know if you understand.
If we say no to the media every time...
Cristóbal refuses every time someone suggests an interview...
We have to do something.
HOLIDAY HOTEL - SUMMER 1947 LUCERNA
-WLADZIO: Come on. -(VIRGILIA LAUGHS)
BIZKARRONDO: Let's go.
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
Come on.
(WHIMPER)
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
-(SIGHS) -(DOOR OPENS)
(LAUGHTER)
(INDISTINCT CHATTER)
(IN FRENCH) You look like a Dior showcase.
WOMAN: Thanks, did you see him in the United States?
He's hugely successful there too.
(IN SPANISH) Here too, the unmentionable.
Did you know he released a perfume?
It's called "Miss Dior".
To honor his sister.
She went to a Nazi camp.
Now he comes out with perfumes.
Everything Dior does vulgarizes our profession.
Marketing and high fashion don't work together,
our thing is exclusivity.
You have to think about business too, Cristóbal.
Perfume is a good idea, I think.
We're doing well financially.
Yes, but as a businessman I must explore new brands.
For the good of the company.
Things change suddenly.
Remember how we did during the occupation.
Sometimes I feel like you only care about making money.
If you do, then maybe you should have invested
in other things, like screws or bowls, for example.
You're saying a dimwit like me can't understand your work?
I don't have the sensibility for it?
You say that about Dior too.
That he has no depth, only luck.
It might be like that, Cristóbal,
but some of our best clients have moved to Dior.
And Dior, or fat rabbit, as you call him, is sweeping the floor with us.
It's exciting that the Marchioness of Nowhere
was buried in Balenciaga,
but that won't secure the future of the company.
We can't only dress corpses!
-Look-- -No, no.
Listen to Nicolás, he understands these things.
-BIZKARRONDO: Virgilia. -VIRGILIA: It's true.
You might not understand other things, but you understand this.
Cristóbal.
I've always supported you,
but if you only focus in designing,
you'll end up giving in to the American department stores.
You agree?
(SIGHS)
I thought you liked my designs.
I do, it has nothing to do with that.
It's about communication strategy.
Cristóbal, ignoring the press doesn't help us.
Being closed off is hurting us.
I can't believe it.
We know each other well, Wladzio.
You know I don't like this.
Brands are tied to a face more than ever.
It's what people buy.
We have a huge advantage there.
You're attractive.
(CRISTÓBAL STUTTERS)
Much more than Dior, and we should take advantage of it.
Please...
(LAUGHS) What's wrong?
You're embarrassed?
Thank you, Wladzio,
but my answer is that I won't expose myself now.
FLORETTE (IN FRENCH): That's it for today, ladies.
-We'll continue tomorrow. -WOMAN: Bye.
-Bye. -FLORETTE: Bye.
(DOOR CLOSES)
CANCELLED
Hey...
(IN FRENCH) Don't snoop around my desk.
Even if you're the boss.
I'm sorry, uh...
(SOFT MUSIC)
MAN: Finally, number three.
A fragrance of Cyprus-floral scent.
We need a name.
I've been thinking about it.
-How about "Dix"? -"Dix"?
-Our maison's number. -George V Avenue, 10.
(IN SPANISH) You really thought it through.
It's not too similar to Chanel Number Five?
No, it's simple, but it works.
I'd add something. An article.
Le Dix. It makes it unique.
WLADZIO (IN FRENCH): Breathe, try to look happy.
Just try.
Use your hand, as if you were thinking.
Try the other one.
That's it, raise your chin, a little more.
WOMAN: Look at the camera.
(CAMERA CLICKS)
(IN SPANISH) Isn't he attractive?
He's so handsome.
This will be huge.
I look like a vampire.
(LAUGHTER)
BIZKARRONDO: The perfume goes here.
And the name, here... Le Dix.
And here... what was the slogan?
His creation.
It makes it seem like I pissed on it.
-(LAUGHTER) -CRISTÓBAL: What?
Am I lying?
What are you laughing at?
You liked them too. You look handsome.
CRISTÓBAL: So handsome...
-Handsome? -VIRGILIA: Very much.
(MUTTERS)
(IN FRENCH) Smells new.
Yes, we opened it a week ago.
We'll sell perfumes and accessories here.
Please.
CRISTÓBAL: Interesting.
I want...
the green taffeta,
the heavy crepé,
and the patterned organza.
I've been thinking of a new design
and I'd like to use the pink shantung you showed me.
Remember?
Sorry, Cristóbal. Since you weren't interested, I offered it to someone else.
-Can I ask who? -Yes.
But I can't tell you.
Dior bought it, right?
Don't insist, Cristóbal.
I'm sure it was him.
If you're really interested in that fabric,
they make a similar one in Madrid.
This Asensio guy makes it.
CRISTÓBAL: Spanish fabric.
It's like going back to the occupation.
CARMEL: There are fantastic fabrics in Spain.
You know that better than anyone.
CRISTÓBAL: The suppliers are very powerful.
They come, show what they want
and I'm supposed to settle, it's not fair.
Calm down, Cristóbal.
We'll be in Madrid for Christmas, we can go see Asensio.
Here it is.
Magnificent.
I love it.
I don't know how I let it happen...
Next thing I know, they'll spot me in the street.
Just what I needed.
Cristóbal, relax.
You are very attractive.
Dior must be dying of jealousy.
Don't talk to me about Dior.
He steals my clients, my fabrics,
forces me to do things I don't want to do...
They want me to be someone I'm not.
To be Dior.
Well, you won't get it.
So I should give up on an interview with you?
(LAUGHS)
You'll have to forgive me, I'm leaving.
I'm going to sleep.
-Good night. -CARMEL: Good night.
The last one, or I'll sew everything crooked.
(LAUGHTER)
(SIGHS)
You're so big...
Don't be dramatic, Carmel, that's too much.
I'd never met someone like you.
I'd never felt what I feel right now.
Do you feel the same?
Me?
I'm not sure I understand...
Wouldn't you like...
to have...
some company?
I don't think anyone can put up with me.
I was born to be a spinster.
(LAUGHTER)
A spinster...
I find that hard to believe.
Aren't you with Wladzio?
With Wladzio?
You know we're friends,
good friends.
(SIGHS)
(IN SPANISH) Did she leave?
Finally.
She tried to seduce me.
-No... -(LAUGHS)
No.
What did you do?
I told her I'd rather be single.
(LAUGHTER)
(SIGHS)
She asked me if we're together.
Can I stay here and sleep with you tonight?
I think I drank too much.
Come here.
(SIGHS)
(KISSING)
(SOFT MUSIC)
Why don't you unstitch the back?
Take out the waist.
Like this?
(BIRDS SINGING)
BALENCIAGA - EISA MADRID - DECEMBER 1948
Felipe, come on. Finish that, he's here.
Come on.
-CRISTÓBAL (IN BASQUE): Juan Martín. -JUAN: Had a good trip?
CRISTÓBAL: Yes.
(IN SPANISH) Any news here?
No, everything's okay.
-(IN BASQUE) Perfect. -Tina.
(IN SPANISH) Uncle Cristóbal.
(KISSES)
Wladzio.
(KISSES)
I have some fabrics I think could fit you.
Excuse me, is your partner coming?
He should, he's late.
Start showing them to me.
Of course. Here, please.
CRISTÓBAL: Thank you.
ASENSIO: Come in.
Uncle Cristóbal, Wladzio is in the hospital.
He was standing and he fell.
(FOOTSTEPS APPROACHING)
Good evening.
Are you relatives of Wladzio D'Attainville?
CRISTÓBAL: No, I'm a friend.
Do you know if his family is coming?
No, they're in Paris. (COUGHS)
Then I'll tell you.
The patient died.
I'm sorry.
He was fine this morning, what happened?
DOCTOR: He had a stroke.
We did everything we could, but...
there was nothing to do.
(CRIES)
(SOBS)
(PANTS)
(SOBBING)
(COUGHS)
(SOBS)
I've been thinking about it.
I can't keep going.
I'm sorry.
Why don't you take some time?
You need to process this emotionally.
Allow yourself to grieve.
Go somewhere, anywhere.
All the time you need.
We can continue without you for some time.
We won't bother you.
It's not about time.
I've had enough of high fashion.
I can't stand this world.
It consumes me.
This is over for me.
I didn't think I could go on without him.
Did you know I almost became a monk?
(LAUGHS) No.
I can't believe it.
It's not a joke.
I almost did.
Oh, sorry.
(SIGHS)
What made you change your mind?
-(IN FRENCH) Hello, Cristóbal. -Christian, what a surprise.
I'm really sorry about what happened.
It's hard to imagine what you're going through.
I wanted to talk to you.
Speak, I'm intrigued.
I heard you're considering retirement.
Don't do it, please.
It's good for you, one less rival.
You're wrong.
As you know,
I visited the United States, the trip was a success.
But, more than the Dior brand,
what they want is to buy French fashion.
They love anything French.
Today, they buy my designs, tomorrow, they'll buy yours.
If you retire,
international high fashion will lose a source of ideas and trends.
If you don't believe me,
I am Dior,
thanks to you.
You're the greatest.
I should also add
that I want you to keep going so Carmel Snow
one day writes that Dior defeated Balenciaga.
I know she loves you,
and that you follow your own path,
but I'll be there.
And now...
what am I supposed to say?
Nothing.
Just think about it.
-See you, Cristóbal. -See you, Christian.
(MELANCHOLIC MUSIC)
(MUSIC CONTINUES)
(END THEME MUSIC PLAYS)
(MUSIC CONTINUES)
Subtitles: Pilar Hernandez