1 00:00:06,353 --> 00:00:09,400 [gentle music] 2 00:00:09,443 --> 00:00:15,884 ♪ ♪ 3 00:00:15,928 --> 00:00:18,409 - Oh, it's cold. It's cold. 4 00:00:20,280 --> 00:00:22,108 So this is called a cenote. 5 00:00:22,152 --> 00:00:23,936 It's a natural sinkhole. 6 00:00:23,979 --> 00:00:26,895 It's very unique to the Yucatán Peninsula. 7 00:00:26,939 --> 00:00:28,419 They were very sacred to the Mayans. 8 00:00:28,462 --> 00:00:31,596 They believed that this was a passage to the underworld. 9 00:00:31,639 --> 00:00:37,036 ♪ ♪ 10 00:00:40,648 --> 00:00:44,522 The Maya define the culture of Yucatán. 11 00:00:44,565 --> 00:00:46,001 As one of the great civilizations 12 00:00:46,045 --> 00:00:49,266 in Central America, their influence is everywhere. 13 00:00:49,309 --> 00:00:51,094 This is huge! 14 00:00:51,137 --> 00:00:53,661 Their DNA runs through every local dish. 15 00:00:53,705 --> 00:00:56,490 - [speaking Spanish] 16 00:00:56,534 --> 00:00:59,928 - And their ancient ways are still a source of inspiration. 17 00:00:59,972 --> 00:01:02,496 - Let's let it burn a little bit more, and... 18 00:01:02,540 --> 00:01:03,628 - More? - We grind. 19 00:01:03,671 --> 00:01:05,195 - I'm Eva Longoria, 20 00:01:05,238 --> 00:01:07,806 born and bred in Texas with Mexican-American roots, 21 00:01:07,849 --> 00:01:10,113 which makes me a Texican. 22 00:01:10,156 --> 00:01:13,377 I'm exploring Mexico to see how the people, their lands, 23 00:01:13,420 --> 00:01:16,293 and their past have shaped a culinary tradition 24 00:01:16,336 --> 00:01:18,382 as diverse as its 32 states. 25 00:01:18,425 --> 00:01:20,949 I don't think I've ever seen an avocado this big. 26 00:01:20,993 --> 00:01:23,735 - Here in Yucatán, there are so many great ingredients. 27 00:01:23,778 --> 00:01:27,130 - With searingly hot weather all year round, 28 00:01:27,173 --> 00:01:29,480 time moves at a slower pace in Yucatán. 29 00:01:29,523 --> 00:01:32,178 - [speaking Mayan] 30 00:01:32,222 --> 00:01:35,529 - When it's taken hundreds of years to build the pyramids, 31 00:01:35,573 --> 00:01:37,836 waiting a day for your dinner to cook is no big deal. 32 00:01:40,534 --> 00:01:42,014 - Eight hours? 33 00:01:42,057 --> 00:01:44,147 I just hope I can be as patient as my hosts. 34 00:01:44,190 --> 00:01:46,627 I want to taste the pig! 35 00:01:46,671 --> 00:01:49,630 [upbeat music] 36 00:01:49,674 --> 00:01:56,507 ♪ ♪ 37 00:02:04,471 --> 00:02:07,082 Yucatán state is cut off from the rest of Mexico 38 00:02:07,126 --> 00:02:10,129 by dense forest, but its long coastline 39 00:02:10,173 --> 00:02:13,350 has always linked it to the outside world. 40 00:02:13,393 --> 00:02:16,440 It has the largest Maya population in Mexico, 41 00:02:16,483 --> 00:02:19,269 dating back 4,000 years. 42 00:02:19,312 --> 00:02:23,055 The ancient Maya were pioneering and industrious. 43 00:02:23,098 --> 00:02:24,883 They thrived here until the arrival 44 00:02:24,926 --> 00:02:27,886 of the Spanish conquistadors in the 1500s. 45 00:02:29,409 --> 00:02:33,065 The region's turbulent history and unique geography 46 00:02:33,108 --> 00:02:34,936 have heavily influenced the cuisine. 47 00:02:40,246 --> 00:02:42,640 So today, I am trying cochinita pibil, 48 00:02:42,683 --> 00:02:45,947 which is probably the most famous dish from the Yucatán. 49 00:02:45,991 --> 00:02:48,733 You can't come here without having it. 50 00:02:48,776 --> 00:02:51,605 It's known worldwide. 51 00:02:51,649 --> 00:02:53,041 Hola. - Hola. 52 00:02:53,085 --> 00:02:54,086 Buenos días. - Hola. Buenos días. 53 00:02:54,129 --> 00:02:55,174 - Buenos días. 54 00:02:55,218 --> 00:02:56,871 [speaking Spanish] 55 00:02:56,915 --> 00:02:59,091 - [speaking Spanish] 56 00:02:59,134 --> 00:03:01,789 Now, there are variations on the recipe. 57 00:03:01,833 --> 00:03:04,096 But cochinita pibil is slow-cooked pork 58 00:03:04,139 --> 00:03:06,664 marinated in a tangy spice mix... 59 00:03:06,707 --> 00:03:08,448 Oh, wow. 60 00:03:08,492 --> 00:03:11,146 Traditionally served in a taco with pickled red onions. 61 00:03:11,190 --> 00:03:12,626 Look at that. 62 00:03:12,670 --> 00:03:14,759 You know it's good when there's pork fat dripping out. 63 00:03:17,675 --> 00:03:19,154 Mmm. 64 00:03:21,766 --> 00:03:25,248 I'm going to the award-winning restaurant, IXI'IM, 65 00:03:25,291 --> 00:03:29,469 where cochinita pibil is transformed into fine dining. 66 00:03:29,513 --> 00:03:31,558 It's run by Luis Ronzón, 67 00:03:31,602 --> 00:03:34,169 one of the region's most exciting chefs, 68 00:03:34,213 --> 00:03:36,171 who makes his cochinita pibil 69 00:03:36,215 --> 00:03:39,131 using both ancient and modern techniques. 70 00:03:39,174 --> 00:03:40,741 Hello! - Hello. 71 00:03:40,785 --> 00:03:41,960 How you doing? - Good. 72 00:03:42,003 --> 00:03:43,091 Soy Eva. 73 00:03:43,135 --> 00:03:45,093 - Mucho gusto Nice meeting you. 74 00:03:45,137 --> 00:03:46,660 - Nice to meet you. - Welcome. 75 00:03:46,704 --> 00:03:47,966 - Thank you. I'm excited. 76 00:03:48,009 --> 00:03:50,751 I've heard amazing things about your restaurant. 77 00:03:50,795 --> 00:03:52,797 Luis starts by cooking the pork 78 00:03:52,840 --> 00:03:56,148 the traditional Mayan way: outdoors. 79 00:04:03,677 --> 00:04:06,158 - This pig is a descendant of the same breed 80 00:04:06,201 --> 00:04:08,987 that the Spanish prize for jamón ibérico, 81 00:04:09,030 --> 00:04:11,250 one of the world's finest hams. 82 00:04:15,994 --> 00:04:17,300 - I've never seen this orange. 83 00:04:19,563 --> 00:04:20,825 - Yeah. 84 00:04:20,868 --> 00:04:22,696 - You use sour orange. 85 00:04:23,915 --> 00:04:26,091 The Spanish brought this citrus gem, 86 00:04:26,134 --> 00:04:28,528 which is now a Yucatán staple. 87 00:04:28,572 --> 00:04:30,051 Here, it's mixed with spices 88 00:04:30,095 --> 00:04:31,749 from the neighboring Caribbean. 89 00:04:31,792 --> 00:04:32,924 - So... 90 00:04:36,754 --> 00:04:37,885 - Mm-hmm. 91 00:04:48,243 --> 00:04:51,116 - The marinated pig is entombed in a steel box 92 00:04:51,159 --> 00:04:53,553 before being put in the oven, 93 00:04:53,597 --> 00:04:57,035 which is literally a freshly dug hole in the ground. 94 00:04:57,078 --> 00:04:58,689 What do you call the oven? 95 00:04:58,732 --> 00:05:00,386 What is--P-I-B? - P-I-B. 96 00:05:03,868 --> 00:05:05,043 - Oh. 97 00:05:06,827 --> 00:05:07,872 - Pib style. - No? 98 00:05:16,968 --> 00:05:19,536 - It is basically a crock pot in the ground. 99 00:05:19,579 --> 00:05:20,711 - Yeah, kind of. Yeah. 100 00:05:20,754 --> 00:05:22,582 You couldn't have said it better. 101 00:05:22,626 --> 00:05:24,279 - Wouldn't it be easier just to put it in a crock pot? 102 00:05:24,323 --> 00:05:27,239 - Yeah. No, 'cause you don't have the flavor of the soil. 103 00:05:27,282 --> 00:05:28,632 - Yes, the flavor... - You know? 104 00:05:28,675 --> 00:05:30,198 - Of the region. - Of the branches 105 00:05:30,242 --> 00:05:31,504 and everything. - Of the tierra. 106 00:05:31,548 --> 00:05:34,899 - Right. And this is a romantic technique, no? 107 00:05:34,942 --> 00:05:36,422 - A very romantic technique. - It is. 108 00:05:36,466 --> 00:05:37,945 - I mean, it's romantic because I'm not the one 109 00:05:37,989 --> 00:05:40,078 digging the dirt, but yeah. - Yeah. 110 00:05:45,649 --> 00:05:48,652 - This ancient way of slow-cooking is ingenious. 111 00:05:48,695 --> 00:05:51,698 Once buried, the pig needs no supervision, 112 00:05:51,742 --> 00:05:53,874 and the meat is protected from hungry animals. 113 00:05:53,918 --> 00:05:55,789 I mean, what's not to like? 114 00:05:55,833 --> 00:05:57,443 Oh, but there is a downside. 115 00:05:57,487 --> 00:06:00,751 - So we're gonna leave it here for eight hours. 116 00:06:00,794 --> 00:06:02,230 - Eight hours? - Yeah. 117 00:06:04,972 --> 00:06:06,539 - Thank goodness for that. 118 00:06:06,583 --> 00:06:08,976 I just wish our crew would hurry up and get over here. 119 00:06:09,020 --> 00:06:11,065 - I'm dying to eat the pig, guys! 120 00:06:11,109 --> 00:06:13,677 - [laughs] We're hungry. - Come on! 121 00:06:13,720 --> 00:06:16,288 I want to taste the pig! 122 00:06:18,769 --> 00:06:20,379 I mean, if you could smell this right now, 123 00:06:20,423 --> 00:06:22,947 you'd be yelling for it too. 124 00:06:22,990 --> 00:06:24,339 - So this one, we buried yesterday. 125 00:06:24,383 --> 00:06:26,690 - The big reveal. - Yes. Yeah. 126 00:06:26,733 --> 00:06:29,432 - [gasps] Oh, wow. 127 00:06:32,130 --> 00:06:34,611 Can I take the banana leaf off? - Yeah, please. 128 00:06:34,654 --> 00:06:36,134 - Look at this! [gasps] 129 00:06:36,177 --> 00:06:38,353 Look at that. Look at the juice. 130 00:06:40,355 --> 00:06:42,053 Oh, my God. 131 00:06:42,096 --> 00:06:44,316 It's just, like, falling off! 132 00:06:48,668 --> 00:06:50,148 Oh, my gosh. 133 00:06:50,191 --> 00:06:52,237 Oh, my gosh. Well, I need more now. 134 00:06:52,280 --> 00:06:56,415 I mean, you can taste the comino, the clove. 135 00:06:56,459 --> 00:06:58,809 That sour orange really is-- - Yeah. 136 00:06:58,852 --> 00:07:02,073 Sour orange and the spices, no? 137 00:07:02,116 --> 00:07:04,249 Wow. - Mm-hmm. 138 00:07:04,292 --> 00:07:06,077 Mmm! 139 00:07:06,120 --> 00:07:08,035 - My mouth is watering now. - Watching me? 140 00:07:08,079 --> 00:07:09,472 - Yeah. - [chuckles] 141 00:07:09,515 --> 00:07:11,865 - So I wanted you to try, like, the normal way. 142 00:07:11,909 --> 00:07:12,953 - Mm-hmm. - And also, 143 00:07:12,997 --> 00:07:14,999 I want you to try my way, 144 00:07:15,042 --> 00:07:17,654 which is the way we serve it at the IXI'IM restaurant, so... 145 00:07:17,697 --> 00:07:20,004 - OK. 146 00:07:20,047 --> 00:07:23,311 This is beautiful! 147 00:07:23,355 --> 00:07:25,444 Here in his kitchen garden, 148 00:07:25,488 --> 00:07:28,708 Luis grows his produce the same way as the Maya. 149 00:07:35,454 --> 00:07:37,804 - Now, I'm sure the ancient Maya would feel at home 150 00:07:37,848 --> 00:07:40,154 in Luis's garden, but what would they think 151 00:07:40,198 --> 00:07:42,417 of his breathtaking dining room? 152 00:07:46,509 --> 00:07:49,120 But I'm at the heart of the action--in the kitchen. 153 00:07:53,254 --> 00:07:55,126 - What? Yes! - Yeah? OK. 154 00:07:55,169 --> 00:07:57,389 - Yes. Don't threaten me with a good time. 155 00:07:57,432 --> 00:07:59,043 [laughs] 156 00:07:59,086 --> 00:08:00,218 Salud. - Cheers. 157 00:08:00,261 --> 00:08:01,698 - Luis is from Mexico City, 158 00:08:01,741 --> 00:08:04,831 but it's Yucatán that's captured his heart. 159 00:08:04,875 --> 00:08:07,051 So what was your favorite thing about the cuisine 160 00:08:07,094 --> 00:08:09,140 when you moved here? 161 00:08:09,183 --> 00:08:11,403 - Yes? This dish? - Yeah, yeah. 162 00:08:12,883 --> 00:08:13,971 - Oh, yeah. 163 00:08:17,365 --> 00:08:19,542 - Really? - Yeah. 164 00:08:19,585 --> 00:08:22,849 - Luis has swapped out the traditional pickled red onions 165 00:08:22,893 --> 00:08:27,071 for his own sides of sweet potato, parsnip, and beets. 166 00:08:27,114 --> 00:08:29,203 Just a little bit of butter, guys. 167 00:08:29,247 --> 00:08:30,683 - Yeah. - Just a little bit of butter. 168 00:08:30,727 --> 00:08:31,684 - Salt. 169 00:08:33,860 --> 00:08:35,949 - And that's it. - And that's it. 170 00:08:35,993 --> 00:08:39,344 - I'm just gonna wait here while he roasts those beets. 171 00:08:41,694 --> 00:08:43,304 The pig from the pib 172 00:08:43,348 --> 00:08:46,090 is about to have a sophisticated makeover. 173 00:08:51,530 --> 00:08:53,619 - Watch out. Aah! 174 00:08:53,663 --> 00:08:57,318 - We're gonna make, like, a very crispy skin, no? 175 00:08:57,362 --> 00:08:59,451 - That's a good idea. - Yeah. 176 00:08:59,494 --> 00:09:01,061 - I concur. 177 00:09:01,105 --> 00:09:02,585 [crunches] - Do you hear that? 178 00:09:02,628 --> 00:09:03,890 - Yes. - That's a crispy skin. 179 00:09:03,934 --> 00:09:06,110 - Yes! 180 00:09:06,153 --> 00:09:10,114 - And I'm gonna put it in here. - Oh, that's beautiful! 181 00:09:10,157 --> 00:09:11,419 - So that's the way we plate it. 182 00:09:11,463 --> 00:09:12,769 - Look at that presentation. - Yeah. 183 00:09:15,685 --> 00:09:18,644 - The puréed vegetables and habanero chili salsa 184 00:09:18,688 --> 00:09:21,821 turns this dish into a rainbow of color. 185 00:09:21,865 --> 00:09:27,914 ♪ ♪ 186 00:09:27,958 --> 00:09:29,524 [gasps] 187 00:09:34,312 --> 00:09:37,228 I've never had a meal like this. 188 00:09:37,271 --> 00:09:39,012 One of the best meals of my life. 189 00:09:39,056 --> 00:09:40,144 - Thank you. 190 00:09:42,625 --> 00:09:45,671 - This is Luis' love letter to Yucatán, 191 00:09:45,715 --> 00:09:46,759 to the people 192 00:09:46,803 --> 00:09:49,980 and the land he now calls home. 193 00:09:50,023 --> 00:09:51,155 I'm just gonna-- don't mind me. 194 00:09:51,198 --> 00:09:53,461 I'm just gonna stay here in the kitchen. 195 00:09:53,505 --> 00:09:54,811 You have work to do. Go ahead. 196 00:09:54,854 --> 00:09:56,769 - [laughs] 197 00:09:56,813 --> 00:09:58,249 - I'm so happy. 198 00:10:04,951 --> 00:10:06,910 [upbeat music] 199 00:10:06,953 --> 00:10:09,260 ♪ ♪ 200 00:10:09,303 --> 00:10:14,265 - Mérida is the capital of Yucatán, 201 00:10:14,308 --> 00:10:16,920 and it's a city that runs on its stomach. 202 00:10:16,963 --> 00:10:18,443 Hola. [laughs] 203 00:10:18,486 --> 00:10:20,488 I'm here to meet one of Mérida's best chefs 204 00:10:20,532 --> 00:10:22,360 and gastronomic pioneers. 205 00:10:22,403 --> 00:10:24,014 - Mucho gusto. - Mucho gusto. 206 00:10:24,057 --> 00:10:25,972 - [speaking Spanish] 207 00:10:26,016 --> 00:10:28,366 This market sells all the spices that we will need 208 00:10:28,409 --> 00:10:30,542 to cook later on in the night. - OK. OK. 209 00:10:30,585 --> 00:10:32,370 - So you want to take a look? - Yes. 210 00:10:32,413 --> 00:10:33,980 - Let's go. - I love a spice market. 211 00:10:34,024 --> 00:10:37,331 - Chef Roberto Solís is famous for putting a new spin 212 00:10:37,375 --> 00:10:40,508 on the foundation of Yucatecan cuisine: 213 00:10:40,552 --> 00:10:41,684 el recado. 214 00:10:43,947 --> 00:10:45,426 What is el recado? 215 00:10:45,470 --> 00:10:47,690 I've never heard that word until I got to the Yucatán. 216 00:10:52,651 --> 00:10:54,392 - El recado is a colored paste 217 00:10:54,435 --> 00:10:56,307 made from a combination of spices. 218 00:10:56,350 --> 00:10:58,396 They come in lots of different flavors 219 00:10:58,439 --> 00:11:00,528 and are used everywhere here, 220 00:11:00,572 --> 00:11:04,097 but you'll struggle to find el recado outside Yucatán. 221 00:11:05,664 --> 00:11:07,144 - No. No. 222 00:11:07,187 --> 00:11:08,362 - No? - Just here. 223 00:11:08,406 --> 00:11:10,103 - Why? That's so weird. 224 00:11:10,147 --> 00:11:12,627 - That's weird. [laughter] 225 00:11:12,671 --> 00:11:14,542 - Because it feels like such a good idea. 226 00:11:14,586 --> 00:11:15,718 - Yeah. - Like, to do a paste 227 00:11:15,761 --> 00:11:18,242 on chicken and fish and pork. - Yeah. 228 00:11:20,592 --> 00:11:23,203 - Is this their family recipe? 229 00:11:23,247 --> 00:11:25,510 - [speaking Spanish] - [speaking Spanish] 230 00:11:25,553 --> 00:11:28,078 - For generations, Don Enrique's family 231 00:11:28,121 --> 00:11:31,342 have been recado alchemists. 232 00:11:35,955 --> 00:11:37,087 - Uh-huh. 233 00:11:57,150 --> 00:11:59,109 - It's much smokier. - Yes. 234 00:12:00,937 --> 00:12:02,939 - No. 235 00:12:02,982 --> 00:12:05,115 Many of these spices came to the Yucatán 236 00:12:05,158 --> 00:12:06,681 over 500 years ago, 237 00:12:06,725 --> 00:12:09,597 when the region was colonized by the Spanish. 238 00:12:09,641 --> 00:12:11,904 And you can still see a strong European influence 239 00:12:11,948 --> 00:12:13,776 all around Mérida. 240 00:12:16,256 --> 00:12:19,390 Today, people flock to its thriving food scene. 241 00:12:19,433 --> 00:12:21,479 Twice voted capital of culture, 242 00:12:21,522 --> 00:12:23,481 it's a magnet for creativity. 243 00:12:26,179 --> 00:12:28,138 Roberto's been at the forefront 244 00:12:28,181 --> 00:12:31,271 of that creativity here in Mérida and in the Yucatán, 245 00:12:31,315 --> 00:12:33,491 so let's see what he's up to. 246 00:12:33,534 --> 00:12:35,580 Roberto's restaurant is called Huniik, 247 00:12:35,623 --> 00:12:38,713 which means "unique spirit" in Mayan. 248 00:12:38,757 --> 00:12:41,978 Here, it's all about turning ancient recipes on their head. 249 00:12:42,021 --> 00:12:43,153 Wow. 250 00:12:43,196 --> 00:12:46,765 Oh, this is beautiful! 251 00:12:46,809 --> 00:12:48,636 This is gorgeous! 252 00:12:48,680 --> 00:12:50,290 - [chuckles] - How are you? 253 00:12:50,334 --> 00:12:51,857 Oh, you look so handsome 254 00:12:51,901 --> 00:12:53,119 in your chef's clothes. - Welcome. 255 00:12:53,163 --> 00:12:54,555 [laughs] 256 00:12:54,599 --> 00:12:56,340 - Known as the Recado King, 257 00:12:56,383 --> 00:13:00,605 Roberto's star of the menu tonight is his black recado. 258 00:13:00,648 --> 00:13:02,520 Are we doing the spices here? - Well, yes. 259 00:13:02,563 --> 00:13:03,782 We're gonna grind the spices here. 260 00:13:03,826 --> 00:13:04,870 - All right. - But actually, 261 00:13:04,914 --> 00:13:06,916 we're gonna burn the spices here. 262 00:13:06,959 --> 00:13:08,700 - Ooh! - [laughs] 263 00:13:08,743 --> 00:13:11,224 We have onion, oregano, cumin, garlic, 264 00:13:11,268 --> 00:13:14,314 annatto seeds, the pepper. - Uh-huh. 265 00:13:14,358 --> 00:13:17,709 Roberto is making his recado negro from scratch... 266 00:13:17,752 --> 00:13:20,364 - So if you want to start... - Yeah. What do I do? 267 00:13:20,407 --> 00:13:22,018 With me as his wingman. 268 00:13:22,061 --> 00:13:23,193 We put it in here? - Yeah. 269 00:13:23,236 --> 00:13:25,456 - Oh, my God! [laughter] 270 00:13:25,499 --> 00:13:26,413 - Good. - I already-- 271 00:13:26,457 --> 00:13:27,632 I already messed up. OK. 272 00:13:27,675 --> 00:13:29,199 - Put some cumin. Just a little bit. 273 00:13:29,242 --> 00:13:30,722 - A little bit? - Like a spoon. 274 00:13:30,765 --> 00:13:32,115 Yeah, that's good. - What is this one 275 00:13:32,158 --> 00:13:33,420 called again? - Annatto seeds. 276 00:13:33,464 --> 00:13:35,161 You can put more, more, more, more, more, more. 277 00:13:35,205 --> 00:13:36,728 - The spices are lightly toasted, 278 00:13:36,771 --> 00:13:38,556 but when it comes to the chili... 279 00:13:38,599 --> 00:13:40,906 It's burning! [laughs] 280 00:13:40,950 --> 00:13:42,212 We crank up the heat. 281 00:13:42,255 --> 00:13:43,778 - The more you burn the chili... 282 00:13:43,822 --> 00:13:45,868 - The less hot. - The less hot. 283 00:13:45,911 --> 00:13:48,305 Now, you can start smelling. - Yeah. 284 00:13:48,348 --> 00:13:50,350 Oh, it's smoking. - [laughs] 285 00:13:50,394 --> 00:13:53,310 - Wave it towards you. - [laughs] 286 00:13:53,353 --> 00:13:55,399 - It smells amazing. 287 00:13:55,442 --> 00:13:58,228 Is this what makes it black, is that char? 288 00:13:58,271 --> 00:13:59,577 - Yeah. - Yeah? 289 00:13:59,620 --> 00:14:02,449 And he really does mean "burn the chili." 290 00:14:02,493 --> 00:14:03,886 [coughing] - Yeah, yeah. 291 00:14:03,929 --> 00:14:05,713 [laughs] 292 00:14:08,238 --> 00:14:09,630 [coughing continues] 293 00:14:09,674 --> 00:14:11,806 Are you guys OK? - [laughs] 294 00:14:11,850 --> 00:14:13,025 - Is it just me? 295 00:14:15,854 --> 00:14:18,248 - Let's let them burn a little bit more, and... 296 00:14:18,291 --> 00:14:19,640 - More? - We grind. 297 00:14:19,684 --> 00:14:22,643 - This goes against all my instincts. 298 00:14:22,687 --> 00:14:25,516 And now, we grind it? - Yeah, let's go. 299 00:14:27,866 --> 00:14:28,823 - OK. 300 00:14:32,305 --> 00:14:33,567 - Oh, my God. 301 00:14:33,611 --> 00:14:35,656 Are we sure this is gonna taste good? 302 00:14:35,700 --> 00:14:37,876 - Yeah, of course. [laughs] 303 00:14:37,920 --> 00:14:39,922 - And all of this is just for the flavoring. 304 00:14:39,965 --> 00:14:41,358 We haven't even started cooking yet. 305 00:14:41,401 --> 00:14:42,533 Is this right? - Yeah. 306 00:14:42,576 --> 00:14:44,100 - Oh, yeah. The paste is coming. 307 00:14:44,143 --> 00:14:45,753 - Yes. 308 00:14:45,797 --> 00:14:48,582 [laughs] 309 00:14:48,626 --> 00:14:51,455 - All right. I think I just pulled a muscle. 310 00:14:51,498 --> 00:14:53,587 - I think we are, yeah, just finished. 311 00:14:53,631 --> 00:14:55,633 Amazing. 312 00:14:55,676 --> 00:14:58,331 - How do you know if it has the right balance? 313 00:14:58,375 --> 00:15:01,334 Mmm. Ooh, that smells great. - Yeah. 314 00:15:02,945 --> 00:15:04,120 It's good. 315 00:15:04,163 --> 00:15:05,338 - Now, we're gonna add... - The orange. 316 00:15:05,382 --> 00:15:06,949 - The sour orange. 317 00:15:06,992 --> 00:15:08,776 Why am I doing all the work here? 318 00:15:08,820 --> 00:15:10,778 - [laughs] [speaking Spanish] 319 00:15:10,822 --> 00:15:13,477 - I don't know how much to put. 320 00:15:13,520 --> 00:15:16,697 - [speaking Spanish] 321 00:15:16,741 --> 00:15:18,656 - Then you mix it, no? - Yeah. 322 00:15:18,699 --> 00:15:21,224 It looks so weird, huh? - No, it looks amazing. 323 00:15:21,267 --> 00:15:22,834 - You're like, "Yeah." [laughs] 324 00:15:24,836 --> 00:15:26,490 - Oh, wow. Oh, my God. 325 00:15:26,533 --> 00:15:29,362 That is so complicated. 326 00:15:29,406 --> 00:15:30,842 - [laughs] Yes. 327 00:15:32,887 --> 00:15:35,455 - Let's put this on something. - Yes. 328 00:15:37,718 --> 00:15:39,807 So first, we're gonna get this white onion. 329 00:15:39,851 --> 00:15:41,070 - Mm-hmm. 330 00:15:41,113 --> 00:15:43,855 - Are we making Yucatán onion rings? 331 00:15:43,898 --> 00:15:45,813 - I think it's a bit more than that, but... 332 00:15:45,857 --> 00:15:47,902 [laughter] - I'm just teasing. 333 00:15:47,946 --> 00:15:50,296 This is one of Roberto's signature dishes: 334 00:15:50,340 --> 00:15:51,689 onion tempura. 335 00:15:51,732 --> 00:15:53,821 With the recado? - With the recado. 336 00:15:53,865 --> 00:15:55,345 Yeah. Why not, right? - Oh, my God. 337 00:15:55,388 --> 00:15:59,218 Roberto adds the recado negro to the tempura batter. 338 00:15:59,262 --> 00:16:00,872 - So I'm gonna dip this. 339 00:16:00,915 --> 00:16:03,396 - And like everything else in Yucatán, 340 00:16:03,440 --> 00:16:05,442 it's a slow process. 341 00:16:09,446 --> 00:16:11,013 - Yeah. - [laughs] 342 00:16:11,056 --> 00:16:13,145 - It's time-consuming. - Yeah, it is. 343 00:16:15,582 --> 00:16:18,542 - Oh, my God. These are gorgeous. 344 00:16:18,585 --> 00:16:20,544 So the black doesn't mean it's burnt. 345 00:16:20,587 --> 00:16:22,024 It's just the color. - Exactly. 346 00:16:23,112 --> 00:16:24,026 - Mm-hmm. 347 00:16:29,857 --> 00:16:31,685 - Oh. 348 00:16:34,514 --> 00:16:36,038 - These beautiful blackened onions 349 00:16:36,081 --> 00:16:38,866 are presented on a bed of charcoal. 350 00:16:38,910 --> 00:16:40,564 Have you had to tell some clients 351 00:16:40,607 --> 00:16:42,087 not to eat the charcoal? - You know, it's funny 352 00:16:42,131 --> 00:16:44,742 because some people just-- - 'Cause it's the same color. 353 00:16:44,785 --> 00:16:47,527 - And everybody like... [laughter] 354 00:16:47,571 --> 00:16:48,920 It was so funny. 355 00:16:48,963 --> 00:16:51,096 - You want to confuse people? - Yeah. 356 00:16:51,140 --> 00:16:52,967 Well, I want to-- - Is this the goal? 357 00:17:03,587 --> 00:17:05,241 - Mmm. 358 00:17:05,284 --> 00:17:07,286 - You know? - Wow. 359 00:17:07,330 --> 00:17:11,160 For as complex as that paste was, it's not overwhelming. 360 00:17:11,203 --> 00:17:12,204 - No, it's not overwhelming. - You're not like-- 361 00:17:12,248 --> 00:17:13,684 - It's just giving you some creaminess. 362 00:17:13,727 --> 00:17:15,642 - Mmm. - Crunch, creaminess. 363 00:17:15,686 --> 00:17:17,079 - I've never had anything like this. 364 00:17:17,122 --> 00:17:20,952 This is gorgeous, and it's delicious. 365 00:17:20,995 --> 00:17:22,562 - Felicidades. - Gracias. 366 00:17:22,606 --> 00:17:26,175 - I'm just gonna stand here while you make the next dish. 367 00:17:30,962 --> 00:17:33,878 Once more, Roberto's toying with my taste buds, 368 00:17:33,921 --> 00:17:36,489 serving coconut ice cream with grilled mango 369 00:17:36,533 --> 00:17:39,275 coated in his recado negro. 370 00:17:39,318 --> 00:17:41,886 Smoky with a hint of spice. 371 00:17:43,322 --> 00:17:45,368 Is it hot? - Yeah. 372 00:17:45,411 --> 00:17:46,586 - Oh. 373 00:17:49,633 --> 00:17:52,766 [laughter] 374 00:17:53,767 --> 00:17:55,117 It is so good! 375 00:17:55,160 --> 00:17:56,466 - Yeah, it is. - I think I'm gonna cry! 376 00:17:56,509 --> 00:17:59,208 [laughter] 377 00:17:59,251 --> 00:18:02,994 I thought that recado was gonna overpower this whole thing. 378 00:18:03,037 --> 00:18:05,127 - You know what it reminds me? When you put marshmallow 379 00:18:05,170 --> 00:18:07,303 on the grill, you know? - Yes, yes! 380 00:18:07,346 --> 00:18:09,087 It reminds me of that. - The texture, you know? 381 00:18:09,131 --> 00:18:11,829 - It has a crispy texture. - Yes, exactly. 382 00:18:11,872 --> 00:18:13,874 - Oh, my God, this is like... - Exactly. 383 00:18:13,918 --> 00:18:16,529 - I'm in heaven. - [laughs] 384 00:18:16,573 --> 00:18:19,750 - Now I know why you're the king of the recado negro. 385 00:18:19,793 --> 00:18:21,969 - Yes, salud. - Gracias, Roberto. 386 00:18:22,013 --> 00:18:23,188 - Gracias. - Muchas gracias. 387 00:18:23,232 --> 00:18:24,885 Wow. 388 00:18:32,502 --> 00:18:34,330 [cheering] 389 00:18:34,373 --> 00:18:36,506 - Most of us have heard of the Day of the Dead. 390 00:18:36,549 --> 00:18:38,812 It's one of Mexico's biggest celebrations, 391 00:18:38,856 --> 00:18:40,771 and my personal favorite, 392 00:18:40,814 --> 00:18:42,947 where spirits come back to eat, drink, 393 00:18:42,990 --> 00:18:44,601 and party with the living. 394 00:18:44,644 --> 00:18:48,039 This celebration is rooted in Aztec and Spanish cultures 395 00:18:48,082 --> 00:18:52,522 and share similarities with the Maya ceremony Hanal Pixan, 396 00:18:52,565 --> 00:18:54,306 meaning "food for the souls." 397 00:18:54,350 --> 00:18:57,266 [upbeat music] 398 00:18:57,309 --> 00:18:59,790 ♪ ♪ 399 00:18:59,833 --> 00:19:02,053 Hola. - Hola, Eva. 400 00:19:02,793 --> 00:19:03,968 - [speaking Spanish] 401 00:19:08,190 --> 00:19:10,366 [rooster crows] 402 00:19:10,409 --> 00:19:12,759 - Two-thirds of the population of Yucatán 403 00:19:12,803 --> 00:19:14,587 are of Mayan descent. 404 00:19:14,631 --> 00:19:15,980 And at the heart of the peninsula 405 00:19:16,023 --> 00:19:18,243 is the Maya town of Xocén. 406 00:19:23,161 --> 00:19:25,859 - I've come to help Chef Alberto Cucu 407 00:19:25,903 --> 00:19:28,340 prepare one of the world's oldest dishes. 408 00:19:35,521 --> 00:19:36,653 - Mm-hmm. 409 00:19:39,569 --> 00:19:40,657 - Mm-hmm. 410 00:19:50,449 --> 00:19:51,363 - Sí. 411 00:19:52,669 --> 00:19:53,800 - Uh-huh. 412 00:19:57,151 --> 00:19:58,588 - Mm-hmm. 413 00:19:58,631 --> 00:20:01,373 - Red is incredibly symbolic to the Maya. 414 00:20:01,417 --> 00:20:04,158 The color of blood, it represents the sunrise 415 00:20:04,202 --> 00:20:06,117 and the rejection of darkness. 416 00:20:20,958 --> 00:20:22,481 - I grew up making tamales. 417 00:20:22,525 --> 00:20:24,875 And in my home, it's still a family tradition. 418 00:20:24,918 --> 00:20:28,095 Oh, my God! It's peeling right off! 419 00:20:32,970 --> 00:20:34,798 - Hola. - Hola. 420 00:20:34,841 --> 00:20:36,234 - Mucho gusto, señora. 421 00:20:36,278 --> 00:20:38,932 - ¿No? No habla español? - Uh-uh. 422 00:20:38,976 --> 00:20:42,414 - My Spanish isn't great, but it's way better than my Mayan. 423 00:20:42,458 --> 00:20:45,809 I'm hoping the language of food is universal. 424 00:20:50,466 --> 00:20:52,468 [speaking Spanish] 425 00:20:52,511 --> 00:20:54,165 - OK, their tamale technique 426 00:20:54,208 --> 00:20:55,819 is totally different than mine. 427 00:20:55,862 --> 00:20:57,429 God, you guys are fast. 428 00:20:57,473 --> 00:20:58,604 [laughter] 429 00:21:02,521 --> 00:21:04,436 - Así. 430 00:21:04,480 --> 00:21:07,309 - Oh. Oh, see? That's already a tip. 431 00:21:07,352 --> 00:21:10,224 - [speaking Mayan] 432 00:21:17,188 --> 00:21:19,930 - These tamales are filled with a Maya corn sauce 433 00:21:19,973 --> 00:21:23,673 before adding tomatoes and shredded chicken. 434 00:21:23,716 --> 00:21:24,891 Mmm. 435 00:21:27,372 --> 00:21:28,330 - [laughs] 436 00:21:31,811 --> 00:21:33,247 - ¿Sí? Yeah! - Uh-huh. 437 00:21:33,291 --> 00:21:37,121 [laughter] 438 00:21:37,164 --> 00:21:40,690 Being Maya tamales, there's only one way to cook them. 439 00:21:49,438 --> 00:21:51,483 - I'm starting to appreciate just how much 440 00:21:51,527 --> 00:21:53,746 cooking underground matters to the Maya. 441 00:21:53,790 --> 00:21:57,924 It represents the cycle of life, death, and rebirth. 442 00:22:01,580 --> 00:22:04,714 - [speaking Spanish] 443 00:22:12,504 --> 00:22:16,290 - [speaking Mayan] 444 00:22:16,334 --> 00:22:17,944 - Maybe it's because I grew up on a ranch 445 00:22:17,988 --> 00:22:19,555 cooking from scratch with my family 446 00:22:19,598 --> 00:22:21,905 or because I have some Mayan ancestry, 447 00:22:21,948 --> 00:22:26,083 I don't know, but this feels very comforting and familiar. 448 00:22:29,434 --> 00:22:31,915 Oh, wow. 449 00:22:38,225 --> 00:22:39,966 Look at that. That's super crispy. 450 00:22:40,010 --> 00:22:41,925 These are a very different texture 451 00:22:41,968 --> 00:22:43,405 from the steamed ones I make. 452 00:22:49,454 --> 00:22:51,630 - Wow. 453 00:22:51,674 --> 00:22:53,415 You guys, look at this. 454 00:22:57,288 --> 00:22:59,333 Mmm. 455 00:22:59,377 --> 00:23:03,250 It's crispy on the outside but really soft on the inside. 456 00:23:03,294 --> 00:23:04,251 Wow. 457 00:23:05,731 --> 00:23:07,690 Mmm. 458 00:23:07,733 --> 00:23:09,561 [laughter] - Pollo. 459 00:23:11,781 --> 00:23:13,435 - Mmm. 460 00:23:13,478 --> 00:23:16,612 I might have to start cooking my tamales underground, y'all. 461 00:23:16,655 --> 00:23:18,788 The Maya tradition of cooking underground 462 00:23:18,831 --> 00:23:20,224 is still alive today, 463 00:23:20,267 --> 00:23:22,618 and it keeps them connected to their land, 464 00:23:22,661 --> 00:23:25,316 to their history, and their culture. 465 00:23:28,798 --> 00:23:29,929 - Uh-huh. 466 00:23:35,805 --> 00:23:37,197 - Mm. 467 00:23:40,679 --> 00:23:42,507 - Mm-hmm. 468 00:23:42,551 --> 00:23:44,727 - Uh-huh. 469 00:23:44,770 --> 00:23:45,989 - Uh-huh. - Muchas gracias. 470 00:23:46,032 --> 00:23:47,991 The more I learn about Yucatán culture, 471 00:23:48,034 --> 00:23:50,080 the more I fall in love with it. 472 00:23:50,123 --> 00:23:52,256 Muchas gracias. - Uh-huh. 473 00:23:59,742 --> 00:24:01,874 [upbeat music] 474 00:24:04,703 --> 00:24:06,575 It's my turn to get starstruck 475 00:24:06,618 --> 00:24:08,968 and meet a chef I've admired for years: 476 00:24:09,012 --> 00:24:10,579 Regina Escalante. 477 00:24:10,622 --> 00:24:12,189 [gasps] 478 00:24:12,232 --> 00:24:14,670 - Hola. Mucho gusto. - It's so nice to meet you. 479 00:24:14,713 --> 00:24:16,367 I'm such a fan! 480 00:24:16,410 --> 00:24:18,500 - Oh, thank you for coming to Merci! 481 00:24:18,543 --> 00:24:20,110 Please, have a seat. - Yes, of course. 482 00:24:20,153 --> 00:24:22,025 Regina trained as a chef in France 483 00:24:22,068 --> 00:24:23,679 before returning home to Mérida 484 00:24:23,722 --> 00:24:27,030 to open her wildly popular restaurant, Merci. 485 00:24:27,073 --> 00:24:28,379 The thing I love about her is 486 00:24:28,422 --> 00:24:30,729 she obsesses about every detail 487 00:24:30,773 --> 00:24:34,907 but particularly the mother of all ingredients: salt. 488 00:24:34,951 --> 00:24:37,823 - And you know what's funny? That when I was in France, 489 00:24:37,867 --> 00:24:40,304 I learned about all these different types of salt. 490 00:24:40,347 --> 00:24:42,045 And for my surprise, when I came to Mérida 491 00:24:42,088 --> 00:24:43,829 and I learned that the quality of the product 492 00:24:43,873 --> 00:24:45,875 that we have here was just, like, 493 00:24:45,918 --> 00:24:48,138 really above and beyond on-- 494 00:24:48,181 --> 00:24:50,270 - A global level? - Yes, on a global level. 495 00:24:50,314 --> 00:24:52,577 - So you traveled the world just to return home 496 00:24:52,621 --> 00:24:54,579 and find you guys have the best salt in the world. 497 00:24:54,623 --> 00:24:55,580 - Yes. - [laughs] 498 00:24:55,624 --> 00:24:57,887 - Oh, yes. I definitely think so. 499 00:25:02,195 --> 00:25:05,851 - 50 miles west of Mérida is Celestún, 500 00:25:05,895 --> 00:25:07,679 an Instagrammer's paradise. 501 00:25:07,723 --> 00:25:10,247 Pink lakes, flamingos, blue skies, 502 00:25:10,290 --> 00:25:14,033 and blinding white salt flats. 503 00:25:14,077 --> 00:25:16,122 Were you born in Yucatán? - Yes. 504 00:25:16,166 --> 00:25:18,255 I was born and raised in Mérida. 505 00:25:18,298 --> 00:25:19,909 Well, my mother came to live here 506 00:25:19,952 --> 00:25:23,260 when she was from the U.S., when she was 18 years old. 507 00:25:23,303 --> 00:25:24,870 She was born in Pennsylvania. 508 00:25:24,914 --> 00:25:26,219 - So she's American. - Yeah. 509 00:25:26,263 --> 00:25:28,439 - We're both Mexican-American. - Yes! 510 00:25:28,482 --> 00:25:31,964 - Do you ever find it difficult to navigate that identity, 511 00:25:32,008 --> 00:25:33,400 or you love it? 512 00:25:33,444 --> 00:25:35,446 - Growing up in Mérida, for me, 513 00:25:35,489 --> 00:25:37,404 I used to be very shy about it. 514 00:25:37,448 --> 00:25:38,971 - I was a fish out of water. 515 00:25:39,015 --> 00:25:40,146 You know, people always say, like, 516 00:25:40,190 --> 00:25:42,409 "Oh, you're half Mexican, half American?" 517 00:25:42,453 --> 00:25:44,368 I'm like, "No. I'm 100% Mexican..." 518 00:25:44,411 --> 00:25:46,457 - Yes, I know. - "And 100% American 519 00:25:46,500 --> 00:25:48,633 at the same time, all the time." 520 00:25:48,677 --> 00:25:50,330 - That's what I try to do with my cooking, 521 00:25:50,374 --> 00:25:51,984 just to be unapologetic 522 00:25:52,028 --> 00:25:55,118 and just like the confidence that you give out to the world. 523 00:25:55,161 --> 00:25:56,989 - Oh, are these the salt lakes? 524 00:25:57,033 --> 00:25:59,035 - Yes, this is where it starts. 525 00:26:01,124 --> 00:26:05,258 - The salt flats of Celestún produce many forms of salt, 526 00:26:05,302 --> 00:26:07,870 but flor de sal is the purest. 527 00:26:07,913 --> 00:26:11,438 It's the magical result of climate and geography. 528 00:26:11,482 --> 00:26:14,311 Salty seawater combines with sweet rain, 529 00:26:14,354 --> 00:26:16,574 slowly evaporating in the tropical heat. 530 00:26:16,618 --> 00:26:20,709 And it leaves behind this pinkish-colored crystal. 531 00:26:22,275 --> 00:26:23,581 - Hola, Manuel. - Hola. Buenos días. 532 00:26:23,625 --> 00:26:24,800 - Presentó Eva. 533 00:26:24,843 --> 00:26:26,497 - Hola. Eva. Mucho gusto. - Mucho gusto. 534 00:26:26,540 --> 00:26:28,673 [speaking Spanish] - [speaking Spanish] 535 00:26:46,517 --> 00:26:47,953 - Oh, wow. 536 00:26:47,997 --> 00:26:49,389 - Sí. 537 00:26:49,433 --> 00:26:51,870 - The crystals here, they're much bigger 538 00:26:51,914 --> 00:26:53,785 than, like, a regular salt... - Yeah, yeah. 539 00:26:53,829 --> 00:26:55,395 - That you would have. - They're huge. 540 00:26:55,439 --> 00:26:58,224 - But it takes much longer to dissolve when you eat it. 541 00:26:58,268 --> 00:27:00,096 This salt will not leave us 542 00:27:00,139 --> 00:27:02,315 with, like, a real metallic flavor. 543 00:27:14,414 --> 00:27:15,981 - And this is also linked 544 00:27:16,025 --> 00:27:18,680 to when the flamingos come and visit Celestún. 545 00:27:18,723 --> 00:27:20,986 It's said that the flamingos get this pink color 546 00:27:21,030 --> 00:27:22,684 because they eat the artemia. 547 00:27:22,727 --> 00:27:26,296 - The harvesting of the flor de sal is so delicate, 548 00:27:26,339 --> 00:27:27,558 it has to be done by hand. 549 00:27:27,601 --> 00:27:29,081 Oh, God. I'm gonna mess it up. 550 00:27:29,125 --> 00:27:30,561 They say if you don't scoop it right, 551 00:27:30,604 --> 00:27:33,477 then it just becomes normal salt! 552 00:27:33,520 --> 00:27:36,393 No wonder it's the most expensive salt in the world. 553 00:27:37,655 --> 00:27:40,527 - Brilliant! - I did it. 554 00:27:43,356 --> 00:27:46,533 Now, this is a perfect spot for lunch. 555 00:27:46,577 --> 00:27:48,710 Wow! - So this is a sea bass. 556 00:27:48,753 --> 00:27:50,363 - You don't understand how excited I am 557 00:27:50,407 --> 00:27:53,410 to finally eat fish on a beach in the Yucatán. 558 00:27:53,453 --> 00:27:55,325 Do you know what? I'm surprised 559 00:27:55,368 --> 00:27:57,240 that there isn't more seafood 560 00:27:57,283 --> 00:27:59,416 in the Yucatán cuisine. - I know. 561 00:27:59,459 --> 00:28:01,679 Back in the day, people didn't have the ability 562 00:28:01,723 --> 00:28:03,594 to refrigerate food at their homes. 563 00:28:03,637 --> 00:28:05,335 - Mm-hmm. - My grandmother would tell me 564 00:28:05,378 --> 00:28:06,858 that when she grew up, people thought 565 00:28:06,902 --> 00:28:09,339 that they were gonna get sick of eating fish 566 00:28:09,382 --> 00:28:10,775 that was caught, like, in the morning. 567 00:28:10,819 --> 00:28:13,604 And with the heat, the food would spoil really fast. 568 00:28:13,647 --> 00:28:16,955 - The fish is stuffed with garlic, rosemary, thyme, 569 00:28:16,999 --> 00:28:19,392 that Yucatán favorite, sour orange, 570 00:28:19,436 --> 00:28:21,830 and of course, a healthy dose of salt. 571 00:28:21,873 --> 00:28:25,442 When you have ingredients this fresh, simplicity is key. 572 00:28:25,485 --> 00:28:27,923 You have specialized in, like, opening up 573 00:28:27,966 --> 00:28:32,014 the gastronomy here outside of the traditional Yucatán dishes. 574 00:28:32,057 --> 00:28:33,276 - I feel that here in Yucatán, 575 00:28:33,319 --> 00:28:35,669 there are so many great ingredients 576 00:28:35,713 --> 00:28:38,847 that I want to just let the ingredients speak for itself. 577 00:28:38,890 --> 00:28:42,415 We're gonna put some oil on it to start out. 578 00:28:42,459 --> 00:28:44,461 We're gonna prepare the brush. 579 00:28:44,504 --> 00:28:47,943 And this brush is gonna be our secret weapon 580 00:28:47,986 --> 00:28:50,467 to just layer up all these herbs. 581 00:28:50,510 --> 00:28:52,948 - This is a great idea, an herb brush. 582 00:28:52,991 --> 00:28:55,733 [sniffs] Oh, that smells so good. 583 00:28:55,777 --> 00:28:58,692 A brush made of parsley, rosemary, and thyme 584 00:28:58,736 --> 00:29:01,957 is also a neat way to apply the garlic purée. 585 00:29:02,000 --> 00:29:04,568 Oh, that's gorgeous. 586 00:29:04,611 --> 00:29:08,050 - We're gonna do some mangoes, also grilled. 587 00:29:08,093 --> 00:29:10,269 - And salt! 588 00:29:10,313 --> 00:29:12,010 This is my idea of food heaven. 589 00:29:12,054 --> 00:29:16,014 Truly, I'd have this as my last meal on Earth. 590 00:29:16,058 --> 00:29:17,624 - I'm gonna bring some of the-- - Bring the salt! 591 00:29:17,668 --> 00:29:19,148 - Flor. - Bring the salt. 592 00:29:19,191 --> 00:29:20,802 - [laughs] 593 00:29:26,198 --> 00:29:29,027 - Fish on a beach. Now, I feel like I'm in Mexico. 594 00:29:29,071 --> 00:29:31,334 I put my onions first. 595 00:29:31,377 --> 00:29:33,205 Now, for the star ingredient. 596 00:29:33,249 --> 00:29:36,339 - This is the flor de sal, so-- - This is the flor de-- 597 00:29:36,382 --> 00:29:37,557 - Yeah. - This is what we harvested. 598 00:29:37,601 --> 00:29:39,821 - You're just gonna put a little, tiny bit. 599 00:29:39,864 --> 00:29:41,910 So what's the secret in all of this? 600 00:29:41,953 --> 00:29:45,696 It's to season to perfection all the ingredients 601 00:29:45,739 --> 00:29:48,655 so that when you add the flor de sal, you don't overseason. 602 00:29:48,699 --> 00:29:50,657 - Yeah, mm-hmm. - OK? 603 00:29:56,838 --> 00:29:58,013 - Mmm. 604 00:29:58,056 --> 00:29:59,753 [gasps] 605 00:29:59,797 --> 00:30:01,581 Wow. 606 00:30:01,625 --> 00:30:04,367 Mmm, that fish is amazing! 607 00:30:04,410 --> 00:30:08,284 The contrast of the crunchy salt and the soft, sweet fish 608 00:30:08,327 --> 00:30:09,546 is just sublime. 609 00:30:09,589 --> 00:30:11,591 I feel like the Yucatán 610 00:30:11,635 --> 00:30:15,204 has the most appreciation for the land and the rain 611 00:30:15,247 --> 00:30:16,683 and the natural elements 612 00:30:16,727 --> 00:30:18,381 and the fruit that comes from the tree. 613 00:30:18,424 --> 00:30:21,166 Like, there's such a thank you to... 614 00:30:21,210 --> 00:30:22,776 - Yes. - La tierra. 615 00:30:22,820 --> 00:30:25,344 - We have delicious ingredients. 616 00:30:25,388 --> 00:30:28,695 And with delicious ingredients, we can make delicious recipes. 617 00:30:38,140 --> 00:30:41,056 [gentle music] 618 00:30:41,099 --> 00:30:44,059 ♪ ♪ 619 00:30:44,102 --> 00:30:46,148 - This is huge! 620 00:30:46,191 --> 00:30:50,326 ♪ ♪ 621 00:30:50,369 --> 00:30:54,852 Part of the magic of Yucatán is its world-famous pyramids, 622 00:30:54,896 --> 00:30:57,115 a reminder that the Maya have been shaping 623 00:30:57,159 --> 00:31:00,597 the landscape and culture here for the last 4,000 years. 624 00:31:03,426 --> 00:31:06,342 In honor of my own Mayan ancestry, 625 00:31:06,385 --> 00:31:08,997 I'm making a pilgrimage to Uxmal. 626 00:31:09,040 --> 00:31:11,564 Only 40 minutes' drive from Mérida, 627 00:31:11,608 --> 00:31:13,958 but it feels like a world away. 628 00:31:14,002 --> 00:31:15,438 Don Pepe! - Ah. 629 00:31:15,481 --> 00:31:17,222 - Don Pepe is a Mayan archaeologist, 630 00:31:17,266 --> 00:31:20,704 and he knows the secrets to this sacred site. 631 00:31:20,747 --> 00:31:23,446 And it's probably why he got the cool hat and I didn't. 632 00:31:33,238 --> 00:31:38,026 - [speaking Spanish] - No. 633 00:31:40,376 --> 00:31:42,987 Uxmal was built around 500 AD, 634 00:31:43,031 --> 00:31:45,816 and the level of detail here is mind-blowing. 635 00:32:09,274 --> 00:32:11,581 - Little wonder they worship the god of rain. 636 00:32:11,624 --> 00:32:13,017 Apart from the cenotes, 637 00:32:13,061 --> 00:32:16,847 there are no lakes or rivers in Yucatán. 638 00:32:45,223 --> 00:32:48,922 - This ability to collect water and irrigate crops 639 00:32:48,966 --> 00:32:51,273 allowed the ancient Maya to put down roots here 640 00:32:51,316 --> 00:32:53,449 and call it home. 641 00:32:59,020 --> 00:33:01,587 So I've heard that Don Pepe is a great cook. 642 00:33:01,631 --> 00:33:03,850 He and his wife, Maria, make this signature 643 00:33:03,894 --> 00:33:06,984 pork and bean broth inspired by Yucatán's history. 644 00:33:08,986 --> 00:33:11,641 The pork, a nod to the later arrival 645 00:33:11,684 --> 00:33:13,382 of the Spanish conquistadores. 646 00:33:23,174 --> 00:33:24,088 - Uh-huh. 647 00:33:27,526 --> 00:33:28,701 - Uh-huh. 648 00:33:32,923 --> 00:33:34,751 In honor of the Mayan rain god, 649 00:33:34,794 --> 00:33:36,970 water plays a key part. 650 00:33:39,234 --> 00:33:42,759 - Epazote is a bitter herb that many Mexicans swear 651 00:33:42,802 --> 00:33:44,891 stops the gassy side effects of beans. 652 00:33:44,935 --> 00:33:46,850 Oh, my gosh, I love beans, 653 00:33:46,893 --> 00:33:48,591 so I know I'm gonna love this one. 654 00:33:51,289 --> 00:33:52,638 - Oh, sal. OK. 655 00:34:00,951 --> 00:34:01,995 - Uh-huh. 656 00:34:08,959 --> 00:34:10,047 - Sí. 657 00:34:10,091 --> 00:34:12,049 - Of course it's cooked underground. 658 00:34:12,093 --> 00:34:15,008 This is Yucatán. 659 00:34:15,052 --> 00:34:17,924 Thankfully, Don Pepe already has one in the oven. 660 00:34:17,968 --> 00:34:19,274 Wow, I think you win... - Sí. 661 00:34:19,317 --> 00:34:21,972 the underground contest of most hours. 662 00:34:22,015 --> 00:34:24,105 [laughter] 663 00:34:24,148 --> 00:34:25,715 - El olor, yeah. 664 00:34:25,758 --> 00:34:27,499 - [sniffs] Oh, that smells good. 665 00:34:32,417 --> 00:34:33,723 - Wow. 666 00:34:33,766 --> 00:34:37,292 Mmm, it tastes like barbecue in a soup. 667 00:34:37,335 --> 00:34:38,684 Smells amazing. 668 00:34:38,728 --> 00:34:40,121 Oh, look at that. Look at that. 669 00:34:41,513 --> 00:34:43,646 - This is the pork. 670 00:34:44,864 --> 00:34:46,170 Oh, my gosh! - Sí. 671 00:34:46,214 --> 00:34:47,998 - I'm so excited about this. 672 00:34:52,133 --> 00:34:54,178 Wow, this is, like, 673 00:34:54,222 --> 00:34:56,528 definitely slow-cooked. 674 00:34:56,572 --> 00:34:58,965 This is just falling apart. 675 00:34:59,009 --> 00:35:00,315 Look at this one. Lookit. Lookit. 676 00:35:00,358 --> 00:35:01,577 Oh. 677 00:35:10,020 --> 00:35:11,326 - Mmm. 678 00:35:11,369 --> 00:35:12,805 Mmm. 679 00:35:16,069 --> 00:35:18,159 [laughter] 680 00:35:21,771 --> 00:35:23,338 - OK. - ¿Claro? 681 00:35:23,381 --> 00:35:26,123 - Wow, you can really taste the smokiness. 682 00:35:32,999 --> 00:35:34,784 In the U.S., we get jittery 683 00:35:34,827 --> 00:35:36,699 if our fast food isn't fast enough, 684 00:35:36,742 --> 00:35:38,396 but here in Yucatán, 685 00:35:38,440 --> 00:35:41,312 no one bats an eye if dinner takes two days to cook. 686 00:35:41,356 --> 00:35:42,661 Mmm. 687 00:35:42,705 --> 00:35:44,881 Sitting in the shadow of Uxmal, 688 00:35:44,924 --> 00:35:46,796 their pyramids are a constant reminder 689 00:35:46,839 --> 00:35:48,972 that good things take time. 690 00:35:58,460 --> 00:36:00,723 [gentle music] 691 00:36:00,766 --> 00:36:03,552 ♪ ♪ 692 00:36:03,595 --> 00:36:06,119 - I'm arriving in Izamal. 693 00:36:06,163 --> 00:36:10,123 This town used to be known for a Mayan pilgrimage. 694 00:36:10,167 --> 00:36:12,909 There's a lot of pyramids around. 695 00:36:12,952 --> 00:36:14,998 But now, it's really a food destination. 696 00:36:15,041 --> 00:36:16,869 So today, we are going to be making 697 00:36:16,913 --> 00:36:19,655 our food pilgrimage here. 698 00:36:19,698 --> 00:36:22,397 40 miles east of Mérida is Izamal, 699 00:36:22,440 --> 00:36:26,314 known as the Yellow City. 700 00:36:26,357 --> 00:36:28,098 You know you've arrived when you're surrounded 701 00:36:28,141 --> 00:36:30,535 with golden yellow walls on every street, 702 00:36:30,579 --> 00:36:34,017 on every building. 703 00:36:34,060 --> 00:36:35,497 Even the city's largest 704 00:36:35,540 --> 00:36:37,455 and most important building is yellow: 705 00:36:37,499 --> 00:36:40,284 the Monastery of St. Anthony of Padua. 706 00:36:42,852 --> 00:36:46,290 Hola. - [speaking Spanish] 707 00:36:46,334 --> 00:36:48,771 - Local restaurateur and Miriam Azcorra 708 00:36:48,814 --> 00:36:50,947 was born and raised in Izamal. 709 00:36:53,732 --> 00:36:55,168 - Oh. 710 00:37:00,609 --> 00:37:01,740 - Mm-hmm. 711 00:37:02,959 --> 00:37:04,395 - Oh, my gosh. - Sí. 712 00:37:04,439 --> 00:37:06,223 - When the Spanish conquered Izamal, 713 00:37:06,267 --> 00:37:08,094 they dismantled the pyramids, 714 00:37:08,138 --> 00:37:11,141 forcing the Maya to repurpose the stones. 715 00:37:13,796 --> 00:37:14,927 ¿No? 716 00:37:23,022 --> 00:37:24,285 - Con las piedras. - Con las piedras. 717 00:37:32,380 --> 00:37:34,947 - The monastery was built for a Christian god, 718 00:37:34,991 --> 00:37:36,688 but it remained holy to the Maya, 719 00:37:36,732 --> 00:37:40,823 who worshipped the sacred stones of their former temple. 720 00:37:43,695 --> 00:37:44,783 - Mm-hmm. 721 00:37:52,748 --> 00:37:54,663 - Así. Wow. 722 00:38:00,321 --> 00:38:04,499 ♪ ♪ 723 00:38:04,542 --> 00:38:07,458 - There are many theories of why the town is yellow. 724 00:38:07,502 --> 00:38:10,156 The most likely is because the largest pyramid in the area 725 00:38:10,200 --> 00:38:12,507 was dedicated to the sun god, 726 00:38:12,550 --> 00:38:16,772 but that's not the only yellow ball deified here. 727 00:38:19,035 --> 00:38:20,906 - Es queso. - Wow. 728 00:38:26,216 --> 00:38:29,480 - Amazingly, Dutch cheese is the main ingredient 729 00:38:29,524 --> 00:38:32,396 of queso relleno. 730 00:38:32,440 --> 00:38:34,790 It's the signature dish at Miriam's restaurant, Kinich, 731 00:38:34,833 --> 00:38:37,967 which specializes in home-cooked comfort food. 732 00:38:42,754 --> 00:38:44,539 How did Dutch cheese get here 733 00:38:44,582 --> 00:38:47,193 and become the most famous dish of this region? 734 00:38:52,503 --> 00:38:53,417 - Uh-huh. 735 00:38:55,288 --> 00:38:56,855 - But unlike the Europeans 736 00:38:56,899 --> 00:39:00,293 who prized these golden globes for the cheese inside, 737 00:39:00,337 --> 00:39:01,991 here, it's all about the part 738 00:39:02,034 --> 00:39:03,471 that I would usually throw away. 739 00:39:03,514 --> 00:39:05,864 So you're not gonna use the inside of the cheese? 740 00:39:05,908 --> 00:39:07,388 You're gonna use the outside of the cheese? 741 00:39:07,431 --> 00:39:08,389 - The outside. 742 00:39:09,738 --> 00:39:11,566 - It's said that once the wealthy merchants 743 00:39:11,609 --> 00:39:13,394 had scooped out the creamy cheese, 744 00:39:13,437 --> 00:39:15,526 their servants found an ingenious use 745 00:39:15,570 --> 00:39:17,223 for the discarded rind. 746 00:39:17,267 --> 00:39:18,529 OK. 747 00:39:19,748 --> 00:39:20,923 - OK. 748 00:39:24,840 --> 00:39:28,539 - The meat of choice? A familiar favorite: pork. 749 00:39:32,804 --> 00:39:33,979 - Sí, igual. 750 00:39:35,459 --> 00:39:36,417 - Uh-huh. 751 00:39:51,432 --> 00:39:52,520 - Mm. 752 00:39:59,657 --> 00:40:01,703 - Mm-hmm. 753 00:40:01,746 --> 00:40:02,921 - Capers. - Alcaparras. 754 00:40:02,965 --> 00:40:06,098 - I love capers, so let's put more. 755 00:40:06,142 --> 00:40:07,535 - Oh, this is almonds? 756 00:40:07,578 --> 00:40:09,885 Mediterranean bay leaves and olives 757 00:40:09,928 --> 00:40:13,410 also go into the pot, and then it's cooked again. 758 00:40:17,370 --> 00:40:19,460 So we close it back in a cheesecloth. 759 00:40:22,506 --> 00:40:24,987 - So it's just gonna take a bath. 760 00:40:28,425 --> 00:40:29,382 - Mm. 761 00:40:30,949 --> 00:40:32,647 - Sí. 762 00:40:32,690 --> 00:40:33,822 - Yeah. 763 00:40:37,042 --> 00:40:39,044 - Oh, yeah. That's soft. 764 00:40:39,088 --> 00:40:41,917 At last, our queso relleno is ready. 765 00:40:41,960 --> 00:40:45,007 Now, I understand what bursting with flavor means. 766 00:40:45,050 --> 00:40:47,183 Ooh, can I touch it? 767 00:40:47,226 --> 00:40:48,184 - Yes. 768 00:40:50,534 --> 00:40:52,449 - Oh, my goodness. 769 00:40:52,493 --> 00:40:55,496 That looks really good! 770 00:40:55,539 --> 00:40:58,890 Over 16 ingredients and three stages later, 771 00:40:58,934 --> 00:41:03,895 it's finished with a Mayan corn sauce and tomato salsa. 772 00:41:03,939 --> 00:41:06,681 This is one intricate dish, 773 00:41:06,724 --> 00:41:10,815 and I can see why diners come here to enjoy its complexity. 774 00:41:10,859 --> 00:41:12,425 Gracias. 775 00:41:15,690 --> 00:41:16,952 Mmm. 776 00:41:16,995 --> 00:41:18,214 - Mm. 777 00:41:19,737 --> 00:41:20,956 - Wow. 778 00:41:20,999 --> 00:41:22,523 Mmm. - Mmm. 779 00:41:24,568 --> 00:41:26,570 - Oh, that's so good. 780 00:41:27,615 --> 00:41:28,616 - Mm-hmm. 781 00:41:37,799 --> 00:41:42,020 - For me, this is the dish that sums up Yucatán. 782 00:41:42,064 --> 00:41:44,414 It's a region that isn't afraid 783 00:41:44,457 --> 00:41:46,329 to embrace different cultures. 784 00:41:46,372 --> 00:41:48,636 The people here are so secure 785 00:41:48,679 --> 00:41:51,421 in who they are and where they come from. 786 00:41:51,464 --> 00:41:54,206 New influences are simply blended with the ancient 787 00:41:54,250 --> 00:41:56,208 to create something unique. 788 00:41:56,252 --> 00:41:58,080 In Yucatán, there's an appreciation 789 00:41:58,123 --> 00:42:00,952 that good things are worth the wait. 790 00:42:00,996 --> 00:42:05,130 ♪ ♪