1 00:00:07,485 --> 00:00:09,356 - Do you believe in magic? 2 00:00:09,400 --> 00:00:13,056 I didn't until Oaxaca cast its spell on me. 3 00:00:18,061 --> 00:00:21,934 In this bewitching place, culinary wonders are conjured. 4 00:00:21,977 --> 00:00:23,675 There's a lot of exciting chefs 5 00:00:23,718 --> 00:00:25,546 coming out of this region. 6 00:00:25,590 --> 00:00:28,375 And Oaxaca is now a mecca for food lovers in the know. 7 00:00:28,419 --> 00:00:29,072 So good. 8 00:00:34,468 --> 00:00:36,383 The gastronomic wizards here... 9 00:00:36,427 --> 00:00:38,342 Wow. 10 00:00:38,385 --> 00:00:42,215 Can summon so many of Mexico's most iconic ingredients. 11 00:00:42,259 --> 00:00:45,000 Have you ever seen such a rainbow of corn? 12 00:00:47,612 --> 00:00:50,005 It's the original string cheese. 13 00:00:50,049 --> 00:00:53,313 I'm Eva Longoria, born and bred in Texas 14 00:00:53,357 --> 00:00:56,708 with Mexican-American roots, which makes me a Texican. 15 00:00:56,751 --> 00:01:00,320 I'm exploring Mexico to see how the people, their lands, 16 00:01:00,364 --> 00:01:03,584 and their past have shaped a culinary tradition 17 00:01:03,628 --> 00:01:06,935 as diverse as its 32 states. 18 00:01:08,589 --> 00:01:11,810 Nestled within three vast mountain ranges, 19 00:01:11,853 --> 00:01:14,595 Oaxaca is so blessed with food riches. 20 00:01:14,639 --> 00:01:16,031 Roasted chocolate. 21 00:01:16,075 --> 00:01:19,252 It's as if the gods themselves dined here. 22 00:01:21,515 --> 00:01:24,692 And for its ancient Indigenous communities... 23 00:01:26,303 --> 00:01:27,652 [laughter] 24 00:01:27,695 --> 00:01:31,569 - This land and its produce is sacred. 25 00:01:31,612 --> 00:01:34,572 But in these parts, you've got to work hard for your dinner. 26 00:01:34,615 --> 00:01:35,703 Oh, my God. 27 00:01:35,747 --> 00:01:37,705 I mean, really hard. 28 00:01:37,749 --> 00:01:39,577 God, I'm sweating. 29 00:01:39,620 --> 00:01:42,362 Wish me luck. 30 00:01:42,406 --> 00:01:43,798 [shouts] 31 00:01:43,842 --> 00:01:46,801 [steady music] 32 00:01:46,845 --> 00:01:53,678 ♪ ♪ 33 00:02:00,075 --> 00:02:02,600 Since pre-Hispanic times, ancient trade routes 34 00:02:02,643 --> 00:02:05,516 bringing an abundance of amazing ingredients 35 00:02:05,559 --> 00:02:07,344 have snaked from South America 36 00:02:07,387 --> 00:02:10,564 into the belly of Mexico via Oaxaca. 37 00:02:10,608 --> 00:02:13,088 ♪ ♪ 38 00:02:13,132 --> 00:02:15,700 Today many of these food gems find their way 39 00:02:15,743 --> 00:02:18,006 to the Mercado de Abastos, 40 00:02:18,050 --> 00:02:20,270 a giant market on the edge of the state capital, 41 00:02:20,313 --> 00:02:21,706 Oaxaca City. 42 00:02:21,749 --> 00:02:24,230 ♪ ♪ 43 00:02:24,274 --> 00:02:25,536 [sizzling] 44 00:02:25,579 --> 00:02:28,060 ♪ ♪ 45 00:02:28,103 --> 00:02:30,062 And in this warren of stalls... 46 00:02:30,105 --> 00:02:32,891 Hola. - Hey, Eva! 47 00:02:32,934 --> 00:02:35,894 - I've hunted down the pioneering chef 48 00:02:35,937 --> 00:02:40,551 who put Oaxacan food on the map, Alex Ruiz. 49 00:02:40,594 --> 00:02:43,380 ♪ ♪ 50 00:02:46,731 --> 00:02:48,863 Uh-huh. 51 00:02:48,907 --> 00:02:51,214 This was your playground? [laughs] 52 00:02:56,306 --> 00:02:58,395 [laughs] - Mm-hmm. 53 00:03:01,354 --> 00:03:03,138 - I'm sticking close to this guy. 54 00:03:03,182 --> 00:03:05,750 Get lost here, and you may never be found. 55 00:03:05,793 --> 00:03:08,318 Habaneros. - Yes, habaneros. 56 00:03:10,450 --> 00:03:11,843 - Oh, my God, look at this. 57 00:03:11,886 --> 00:03:13,801 This is the biggest piece of cheese I've ever seen. 58 00:03:25,726 --> 00:03:28,381 But Oaxaca's most famous ingredient, cacao, 59 00:03:28,425 --> 00:03:31,732 actually came here via those trade routes. 60 00:03:31,776 --> 00:03:33,517 Ooh, I smell chocolate. 61 00:03:33,560 --> 00:03:36,128 And chocolate went on to become a cornerstone 62 00:03:36,171 --> 00:03:38,130 of Oaxacan gastronomy. 63 00:03:38,173 --> 00:03:39,958 If you want your chocolate fix, 64 00:03:40,001 --> 00:03:41,699 the mercado is still the place to come. 65 00:03:41,742 --> 00:03:43,178 But I'm not talking 66 00:03:43,222 --> 00:03:46,660 about anything as simple as a sugary snack. 67 00:03:46,704 --> 00:03:48,793 Hola, don Chava. 68 00:03:51,622 --> 00:03:53,276 Oaxaca's Willy Wonkas 69 00:03:53,319 --> 00:03:55,626 create bespoke chocolate mixes 70 00:03:55,669 --> 00:03:58,106 for their customers to use in cooking. 71 00:03:58,150 --> 00:03:59,369 Mmm. 72 00:03:59,412 --> 00:04:00,326 Bitter. 73 00:04:00,370 --> 00:04:02,415 - It is bitter. - Pure and raw. 74 00:04:02,459 --> 00:04:05,636 Alex's personal blend combines cinnamon with almonds 75 00:04:05,679 --> 00:04:07,028 and a sprinkle of sugar. 76 00:04:07,072 --> 00:04:08,987 It's the perfect alchemy 77 00:04:09,030 --> 00:04:11,163 for one of his legendary recipes, 78 00:04:11,206 --> 00:04:14,819 the luxurious sauce mole negro. 79 00:04:14,862 --> 00:04:16,647 This is it? - [speaking Spanish] 80 00:04:16,690 --> 00:04:18,344 - Machine. 81 00:04:18,388 --> 00:04:20,433 - So we're gonna grind this into a paste? 82 00:04:20,477 --> 00:04:21,956 - Yes. 83 00:04:22,000 --> 00:04:25,003 - The oil from the nuts turns the dry beans 84 00:04:25,046 --> 00:04:26,613 into a luscious paste. 85 00:04:26,657 --> 00:04:28,789 Smells incredible. 86 00:04:28,833 --> 00:04:30,095 Yes. 87 00:04:31,705 --> 00:04:34,360 Okay, let's see. 88 00:04:34,404 --> 00:04:36,319 Mmm. Mmm. 89 00:04:37,929 --> 00:04:39,365 But the aroma-- 90 00:04:39,409 --> 00:04:41,498 the aroma is... [inhales deeply] 91 00:04:41,541 --> 00:04:43,543 Roasted chocolate. 92 00:04:43,587 --> 00:04:46,024 This chocolate is a direct connection 93 00:04:46,067 --> 00:04:49,288 to the Indigenous ancestors of the Oaxacans, 94 00:04:49,332 --> 00:04:52,335 who worshipped it as the food of the gods. 95 00:04:58,906 --> 00:05:00,908 - Only for the kings. Only for the kings. 96 00:05:00,952 --> 00:05:02,475 - Yeah. - Mm-hmm. 97 00:05:03,998 --> 00:05:07,175 [laughter] 98 00:05:07,219 --> 00:05:09,395 Very nice. - It's so pretty. 99 00:05:12,267 --> 00:05:13,878 So now we have our chocolate 100 00:05:13,921 --> 00:05:14,922 for the mole. - Yeah! 101 00:05:14,966 --> 00:05:17,055 [horn honks] 102 00:05:17,098 --> 00:05:19,884 Alex's world-famous restaurant, Casa Oaxaca, 103 00:05:19,927 --> 00:05:22,887 celebrates the glories of this region's produce. 104 00:05:22,930 --> 00:05:24,367 So there's no better place 105 00:05:24,410 --> 00:05:27,457 to try Oaxaca's famous mole negro. 106 00:05:27,500 --> 00:05:29,067 Is this everything that your mole has? 107 00:05:29,110 --> 00:05:30,329 - Yes, correct. 108 00:05:33,288 --> 00:05:37,249 - I mean, this is a very culturally mixed dish, mole. 109 00:05:37,292 --> 00:05:41,035 These 28 ingredients are a marriage of Spanish imports, 110 00:05:41,079 --> 00:05:42,863 like limes and walnuts, 111 00:05:42,907 --> 00:05:44,430 with Indigenous staples 112 00:05:44,474 --> 00:05:47,607 likechiles and, of course, chocolate. 113 00:05:52,525 --> 00:05:53,961 Okay. 114 00:05:55,093 --> 00:05:56,921 - Muy bien. 115 00:05:56,964 --> 00:06:00,620 [light music] 116 00:06:00,664 --> 00:06:04,145 - I love that everything just goes all together. 117 00:06:06,409 --> 00:06:09,586 The chilesoff the comal. 118 00:06:09,629 --> 00:06:11,631 Rather than spicy heat, 119 00:06:11,675 --> 00:06:14,155 these charred, dark-brownchiles 120 00:06:14,199 --> 00:06:15,635 native to Oaxaca 121 00:06:15,679 --> 00:06:19,117 add a rich smoky texture to the mole negro. 122 00:06:19,160 --> 00:06:21,467 That's all you do is crush them in? 123 00:06:23,904 --> 00:06:25,558 Smells wonderful. 124 00:06:31,999 --> 00:06:33,958 [blender whirring] 125 00:06:39,920 --> 00:06:41,966 Okay, here goes the mole. 126 00:06:47,188 --> 00:06:49,974 - Chocolate! - Chocolate. 127 00:06:50,017 --> 00:06:51,454 - Want me to get it out? - Yeah, yeah. 128 00:06:51,497 --> 00:06:53,064 There. 129 00:06:53,107 --> 00:06:56,720 - Alex's custom-made chocolate is the crowning ingredient... 130 00:06:56,763 --> 00:06:59,070 So smooth and silky. 131 00:06:59,113 --> 00:07:02,116 To this magnificently complex 132 00:07:02,160 --> 00:07:05,032 and sophisticated sauce. 133 00:07:05,076 --> 00:07:06,991 Okay. 134 00:07:07,034 --> 00:07:08,688 - Please, Eva. - Okay. 135 00:07:11,343 --> 00:07:13,998 Mmm. It's super chocolatey. 136 00:07:14,041 --> 00:07:15,826 - Yeah. - So good. 137 00:07:15,869 --> 00:07:17,305 - You like it? - Yeah. 138 00:07:17,349 --> 00:07:18,785 - Good. - Oh, my God. 139 00:07:18,829 --> 00:07:22,180 I knew I was gonna get mole on my dress. 140 00:07:22,223 --> 00:07:24,574 - [laughs] You now-- - Now I'm Oaxacan. 141 00:07:24,617 --> 00:07:28,534 Now I'm a real Oaxacan. - You can marry in Oaxaca. 142 00:07:28,578 --> 00:07:30,057 Sí, señora. 143 00:07:30,101 --> 00:07:32,451 ♪ ♪ 144 00:07:32,495 --> 00:07:35,585 - What better way to celebrate my new Oaxacan citizenship 145 00:07:35,628 --> 00:07:39,676 than dinner on Alex's gorgeous rooftop terrace? 146 00:07:39,719 --> 00:07:42,983 ♪ ♪ 147 00:07:43,027 --> 00:07:45,029 - Hey, Eva. 148 00:07:45,072 --> 00:07:48,641 - Oh, wow. 149 00:07:48,685 --> 00:07:50,034 Turkey? 150 00:07:51,905 --> 00:07:53,385 Spaniards? 151 00:07:55,256 --> 00:07:56,997 So they had poultry? 152 00:07:57,041 --> 00:08:00,305 The turkey is marinated with herbs and slow-cooked, 153 00:08:00,348 --> 00:08:04,004 served with rice, some plantain, and a tamale. 154 00:08:04,048 --> 00:08:05,615 But the star of the show-- 155 00:08:05,658 --> 00:08:10,184 Alex's velvety, chocolaty mole negro. 156 00:08:10,228 --> 00:08:12,404 Oh, that's delicious. 157 00:08:12,447 --> 00:08:13,492 It's the chocolate. It's the chiles. 158 00:08:13,536 --> 00:08:15,363 It's the nuts. It's all of those herbs. 159 00:08:15,407 --> 00:08:17,452 It's very herbal. Mmm. 160 00:08:17,496 --> 00:08:20,238 It tastes totally different now. 161 00:08:20,281 --> 00:08:23,807 This is so, so nice. 162 00:08:23,850 --> 00:08:27,201 What an honor to eat your mole negro. 163 00:08:27,245 --> 00:08:29,900 Oh, yes, our mole negro. 164 00:08:29,943 --> 00:08:31,728 So when did you start cooking? 165 00:08:33,686 --> 00:08:35,079 Five? 166 00:08:45,480 --> 00:08:47,657 - No? - [gasps] That made me cry. 167 00:08:50,398 --> 00:08:51,704 Vicenta. 168 00:08:51,748 --> 00:08:54,359 Salud, doña Vicenta. both: Ahí está. 169 00:08:54,402 --> 00:08:55,969 [both laugh] - Salud. 170 00:08:56,013 --> 00:09:03,194 ♪ ♪ 171 00:09:08,025 --> 00:09:11,115 [upbeat music] 172 00:09:11,158 --> 00:09:12,377 - Hi, Eva. - Hi. 173 00:09:12,420 --> 00:09:14,335 How are you? - Great. 174 00:09:14,379 --> 00:09:16,424 Great meeting you. - Oh, so nice to meet you. 175 00:09:16,468 --> 00:09:18,601 - You too. Bienvenida. 176 00:09:18,644 --> 00:09:20,254 Welcome to the world capital of quesillo. 177 00:09:20,298 --> 00:09:21,908 - Oh, it's my favorite cheese. 178 00:09:21,952 --> 00:09:24,955 Food writer Omar Alonso is passionate 179 00:09:24,998 --> 00:09:29,437 about Oaxaca's most famous export, a stringy cheese. 180 00:09:29,481 --> 00:09:31,526 Legend has it, it was created 181 00:09:31,570 --> 00:09:34,181 here in the sleepy town of Reyes Etla, 182 00:09:34,225 --> 00:09:36,401 where the locals christened it quesillo, 183 00:09:36,444 --> 00:09:39,230 meaning little cheese. 184 00:09:39,273 --> 00:09:41,058 - So, yeah, quesillo is a very important part 185 00:09:41,101 --> 00:09:42,799 of our diet in Oaxaca. 186 00:09:47,107 --> 00:09:49,022 - In your sandwiches? - Yeah. 187 00:09:49,066 --> 00:09:50,067 [dog barks] 188 00:09:50,110 --> 00:09:51,764 Omar is taking me 189 00:09:51,808 --> 00:09:53,940 to meet one of the most distinguished quesillo makers 190 00:09:53,984 --> 00:09:55,376 in the region. 191 00:09:55,420 --> 00:09:57,248 There's a difference between the industrialized one 192 00:09:57,291 --> 00:09:58,641 and the artisanal way? 193 00:10:02,862 --> 00:10:04,255 Yeah. 194 00:10:04,298 --> 00:10:06,561 Janet López Canseco's family farm 195 00:10:06,605 --> 00:10:08,999 is one of the last in Mexico to produce quesillo 196 00:10:09,042 --> 00:10:10,174 the traditional way. 197 00:10:10,217 --> 00:10:13,307 ♪ ♪ 198 00:10:13,351 --> 00:10:15,440 This is so exciting. 199 00:10:15,483 --> 00:10:17,442 I've never seen how quesillo is made. 200 00:10:17,485 --> 00:10:19,183 - This is your lucky day. 201 00:10:25,015 --> 00:10:26,146 - Uh-huh. 202 00:10:30,063 --> 00:10:32,849 Turning the curds into the stringy goodness 203 00:10:32,892 --> 00:10:36,026 we know and love takes hands-on attention 204 00:10:36,069 --> 00:10:39,682 from Janet and her dad, Juan. 205 00:10:39,725 --> 00:10:41,466 [laughter] 206 00:10:51,432 --> 00:10:53,478 They say that an ancestor of Janet's, 207 00:10:53,521 --> 00:10:57,351 a clueless teenager, took her eye off the curds 208 00:10:57,395 --> 00:10:59,310 and added boiling water in a panic 209 00:10:59,353 --> 00:11:01,660 to save the family's cheese. 210 00:11:01,704 --> 00:11:03,706 Oh. - Oh, it's happening. 211 00:11:03,749 --> 00:11:06,883 - It's getting so creamy, smooth. 212 00:11:06,926 --> 00:11:09,059 - La textura. - From that crumbs... 213 00:11:09,102 --> 00:11:10,582 - Yeah. 214 00:11:10,625 --> 00:11:14,629 - To a solidified ooey-gooey goodness. 215 00:11:14,673 --> 00:11:17,502 And so each batch is done by hand? 216 00:11:17,545 --> 00:11:19,591 - Sí. - De mano? 217 00:11:19,634 --> 00:11:20,592 Wow. 218 00:11:40,264 --> 00:11:43,746 Of course, behind every great cheese, there's great milk. 219 00:11:43,789 --> 00:11:46,009 And for that, we have the Spanish to thank, 220 00:11:46,052 --> 00:11:48,489 when they brought dairy cows to these valleys 221 00:11:48,533 --> 00:11:50,796 in the 16th century. 222 00:11:50,840 --> 00:11:52,798 But they never could have imagined 223 00:11:52,842 --> 00:11:56,889 what Janet's family would create with the milk. 224 00:11:56,933 --> 00:11:58,630 Is this cold water? 225 00:12:05,202 --> 00:12:08,727 Like a never-ending scarf from a magician's hat, 226 00:12:08,771 --> 00:12:10,860 the cheese just keeps on coming. 227 00:12:10,903 --> 00:12:12,905 Mmm. - Wow. 228 00:12:12,949 --> 00:12:15,908 [chuckles] Have they got a rabbit in there, too? 229 00:12:19,694 --> 00:12:20,739 Okay. 230 00:12:23,873 --> 00:12:26,005 But how do you pack a fire-hose length 231 00:12:26,049 --> 00:12:28,181 of delicious cheese into your fridge? 232 00:12:28,225 --> 00:12:30,053 Okay, here we go. 233 00:12:30,096 --> 00:12:32,490 You're going to have to roll with it, by hand, of course. 234 00:12:32,533 --> 00:12:34,535 So you salt it all the way through? 235 00:12:36,973 --> 00:12:39,018 ♪ ♪ 236 00:12:39,062 --> 00:12:40,063 Wow. 237 00:12:40,106 --> 00:12:43,022 ♪ ♪ 238 00:12:43,066 --> 00:12:43,980 Wow. 239 00:12:46,678 --> 00:12:48,201 I don't even want to attempt to try it. 240 00:12:48,245 --> 00:12:50,464 I mean, I can. 241 00:12:50,508 --> 00:12:52,597 - Sí, sí, claro. - Oh, my God. 242 00:12:52,640 --> 00:12:54,599 Oh, Lord. My hands are clean. 243 00:12:59,517 --> 00:13:01,736 [playful music] 244 00:13:05,044 --> 00:13:07,003 [laughs] 245 00:13:07,046 --> 00:13:09,179 I feel like I'm making a baseball. 246 00:13:09,222 --> 00:13:12,182 - [laughs] - Oh, God, I'm sweating. 247 00:13:12,225 --> 00:13:15,489 That's my quesillo! - Hey. 248 00:13:15,533 --> 00:13:18,492 - Oh, my God. Look at his, though. 249 00:13:18,536 --> 00:13:20,625 I'm just gonna say I did this one. 250 00:13:21,887 --> 00:13:23,019 Wow. 251 00:13:25,369 --> 00:13:27,545 Y mira. Mira, mira, mira. 252 00:13:27,588 --> 00:13:29,721 It's the original string cheese. 253 00:13:31,810 --> 00:13:32,811 Oh, wow. 254 00:13:32,855 --> 00:13:35,205 You can taste the milk. - Mmm. 255 00:13:35,248 --> 00:13:38,948 - It is super lactose-y. [laughter] 256 00:13:38,991 --> 00:13:42,603 If you're lactose intolerant, don't eat this. 257 00:13:42,647 --> 00:13:44,605 You can make so much with quesillo. 258 00:13:44,649 --> 00:13:45,868 - Even ice cream. Have you tried it? 259 00:13:45,911 --> 00:13:47,652 They make it in Oaxaca. - No. 260 00:13:47,695 --> 00:13:50,220 - It's delicious and amazing. 261 00:13:50,263 --> 00:13:52,135 - Mm-mm. Oh, look at yours. 262 00:13:52,178 --> 00:13:54,267 My God. 263 00:13:54,311 --> 00:13:55,921 Respect to Omar. 264 00:13:55,965 --> 00:13:59,359 I have never seen so much cheese gobbled so fast. 265 00:14:05,104 --> 00:14:06,323 Sí. 266 00:14:06,366 --> 00:14:07,977 I always assumed it just came in this shape. 267 00:14:08,020 --> 00:14:10,196 [laughter] 268 00:14:10,240 --> 00:14:14,026 [light music] 269 00:14:14,070 --> 00:14:15,854 Back in the city, 270 00:14:15,898 --> 00:14:18,074 I want to check out how this local cheese is celebrated 271 00:14:18,117 --> 00:14:21,860 at Oaxaca's hottest restaurants. 272 00:14:21,904 --> 00:14:25,081 Star chef Celia Florián loves innovating 273 00:14:25,124 --> 00:14:27,474 with traditional ingredients in her kitchen 274 00:14:27,518 --> 00:14:30,129 to create gastronomic magic. 275 00:14:30,173 --> 00:14:31,914 Hola. 276 00:14:34,960 --> 00:14:37,441 Un gran placer. - Mucho gusto. 277 00:14:37,484 --> 00:14:39,922 - Ay, mucho gusto. [chuckles] 278 00:14:43,142 --> 00:14:45,231 - Okay. 279 00:14:45,275 --> 00:14:46,450 Uh-huh. 280 00:14:49,192 --> 00:14:53,283 Yerba santa is a local herb that has flavors of anise, 281 00:14:53,326 --> 00:14:54,937 eucalyptus, and mint. 282 00:14:54,980 --> 00:14:56,634 And since pre-Hispanic times, 283 00:14:56,677 --> 00:15:00,072 it's also been used for medicinal purposes. 284 00:15:08,167 --> 00:15:10,126 Oh, my God. Have you guys eaten these? 285 00:15:10,169 --> 00:15:11,692 They're grasshoppers. 286 00:15:18,047 --> 00:15:19,439 Wow. 287 00:15:19,483 --> 00:15:21,137 Eating insects is a practice 288 00:15:21,180 --> 00:15:23,400 that dates back hundreds of years... 289 00:15:23,443 --> 00:15:25,402 See the little legs? 290 00:15:25,445 --> 00:15:27,665 And continues to this day. 291 00:15:30,015 --> 00:15:32,670 The creamy, full-fat quesillo 292 00:15:32,713 --> 00:15:34,977 is layered onto the yerba santa. 293 00:15:36,587 --> 00:15:39,198 Ah! - [chuckles] 294 00:15:44,508 --> 00:15:47,163 - I feel like the whole purpose of chapulinesis the crunch. 295 00:15:47,206 --> 00:15:49,078 So... [chuckles] 296 00:15:49,121 --> 00:15:51,515 I hope they're crunchy. 297 00:15:51,558 --> 00:15:54,735 Like a toasted sandwich, it's touched on the hotplate 298 00:15:54,779 --> 00:15:57,521 to help the quesillo stick to the leaf. 299 00:16:01,873 --> 00:16:03,483 Oh, you roll them up. 300 00:16:03,527 --> 00:16:04,789 - Es un bocadillo. 301 00:16:04,832 --> 00:16:06,617 - Little bite sizes. 302 00:16:10,751 --> 00:16:13,798 - Wow. And these are edible flowers? 303 00:16:19,412 --> 00:16:21,588 - Bueno. - Beautiful. 304 00:16:21,632 --> 00:16:23,895 This plate is literally making me happy. 305 00:16:23,938 --> 00:16:26,115 Oh, that's a perfect bite right there. 306 00:16:26,158 --> 00:16:28,204 I think I have a little bit of everything. 307 00:16:31,207 --> 00:16:32,904 Crunchy. 308 00:16:32,947 --> 00:16:35,385 Mmm. It's such a balance of flavors. 309 00:16:35,428 --> 00:16:37,343 - Sí. - Wow. 310 00:16:37,387 --> 00:16:40,912 Who would think to put cheese with grasshoppers with flowers? 311 00:16:40,955 --> 00:16:42,348 [laughs] 312 00:16:42,392 --> 00:16:45,177 Celia's exquisite dish honors Oaxaca's past 313 00:16:45,221 --> 00:16:49,181 while keeping an eye on the future. 314 00:16:49,225 --> 00:16:52,228 I'll never look at cheesy insects the same way again. 315 00:17:00,410 --> 00:17:02,499 [laidback music] 316 00:17:02,542 --> 00:17:05,415 - Some of Oaxaca's greatest culinary creations 317 00:17:05,458 --> 00:17:07,591 come from its Indigenous communities, 318 00:17:07,634 --> 00:17:08,940 like the ancient Zapotecs, 319 00:17:08,983 --> 00:17:11,421 who thrived here for 3,000 years 320 00:17:11,464 --> 00:17:14,772 with a large population in its Isthmus region. 321 00:17:14,815 --> 00:17:17,035 Known as the Waist of Mexico, 322 00:17:17,079 --> 00:17:20,647 it's where the Atlantic and Pacific Coast are closest. 323 00:17:22,127 --> 00:17:24,216 These days, the proud guardians 324 00:17:24,260 --> 00:17:28,002 of Zapotecan cuisine are the extraordinary Muxes. 325 00:17:29,482 --> 00:17:32,094 And I'm lucky enough to be invited to lunch. 326 00:17:32,137 --> 00:17:34,270 Hola. - Hola. Buen día. 327 00:17:38,491 --> 00:17:39,840 - Hola. 328 00:17:39,884 --> 00:17:41,277 - Hola, Eva. 329 00:17:45,455 --> 00:17:51,200 ♪ ♪ 330 00:17:51,243 --> 00:17:54,942 - From a young age, Muxes identify as a third gender, 331 00:17:54,986 --> 00:17:57,467 often displaying feminine attributes 332 00:17:57,510 --> 00:17:59,643 and wearing feminine clothes. 333 00:18:03,473 --> 00:18:04,909 - Salud. 334 00:18:04,952 --> 00:18:07,216 If the food is as fabulous as the outfits, 335 00:18:07,259 --> 00:18:10,001 the eating is going to be good. 336 00:18:22,492 --> 00:18:24,363 Oh, my God. 337 00:18:26,539 --> 00:18:28,976 [laughter] 338 00:18:41,728 --> 00:18:43,165 Okay. 339 00:18:45,384 --> 00:18:46,298 - Sí. 340 00:18:51,521 --> 00:18:53,740 - Okay. 341 00:18:53,784 --> 00:18:55,568 Sí. 342 00:18:55,612 --> 00:18:59,572 Historically, Muxes adopted traditionally female roles 343 00:18:59,616 --> 00:19:01,052 within the family, 344 00:19:01,095 --> 00:19:03,141 becoming caregivers, needle workers, 345 00:19:03,185 --> 00:19:05,404 and, most importantly, cooks. 346 00:19:07,580 --> 00:19:08,929 - Sí. 347 00:19:25,337 --> 00:19:26,817 - Very tropical, with the pineapple 348 00:19:26,860 --> 00:19:28,645 and the tomatoes and the onions. 349 00:19:28,688 --> 00:19:29,863 And then with this dense pork, 350 00:19:29,907 --> 00:19:32,126 I think it's gonna be pretty amazing. 351 00:19:40,613 --> 00:19:41,962 [shouts] 352 00:19:42,006 --> 00:19:43,312 Clearly, this is a dish 353 00:19:43,355 --> 00:19:45,749 worth risking third-degree burns for. 354 00:19:45,792 --> 00:19:49,666 ♪ ♪ 355 00:19:49,709 --> 00:19:51,015 Oh, my God... 356 00:19:54,453 --> 00:19:57,804 It smells so good. 357 00:19:57,848 --> 00:20:03,375 ♪ ♪ 358 00:20:03,419 --> 00:20:05,159 Wow. 359 00:20:10,600 --> 00:20:13,429 ♪ ♪ 360 00:20:19,826 --> 00:20:21,263 Okay. 361 00:20:21,306 --> 00:20:23,308 I could walk home in that time. 362 00:20:23,352 --> 00:20:25,789 But don't worry. We don't have to wait that long. 363 00:20:30,010 --> 00:20:32,230 And now for the carbs in the kitchen. 364 00:20:32,274 --> 00:20:34,537 Rubich and Victoria are whipping up 365 00:20:34,580 --> 00:20:36,974 a decadent potato side dish. 366 00:20:39,803 --> 00:20:40,978 Okay. 367 00:20:42,196 --> 00:20:44,808 both: Mmm. 368 00:20:52,163 --> 00:20:53,382 [laughter] 369 00:20:53,425 --> 00:20:55,166 - The mashed potato is combined 370 00:20:55,209 --> 00:20:57,255 with spring onion, carrot, egg, 371 00:20:57,299 --> 00:20:59,910 and mountains of butter and garlic. 372 00:21:05,350 --> 00:21:06,830 Uh-huh. 373 00:21:08,397 --> 00:21:10,399 [laughter] 374 00:21:31,071 --> 00:21:33,247 Muxan culture has given a sense of freedom 375 00:21:33,291 --> 00:21:36,599 to Zapotecs who don't conform to gender stereotypes. 376 00:21:36,642 --> 00:21:41,038 And today they are celebrated in the Isthmus and beyond. 377 00:21:43,736 --> 00:21:46,739 - Sí, por favor. - Oh, my God. 378 00:21:46,783 --> 00:21:48,219 Wow. 379 00:21:48,262 --> 00:21:51,091 This feels amazing, the texture of this cream. 380 00:21:53,224 --> 00:21:54,530 A ver... 381 00:21:56,227 --> 00:21:58,403 [laughter] 382 00:21:58,447 --> 00:21:59,535 Wow. 383 00:21:59,578 --> 00:22:02,581 [upbeat music] 384 00:22:02,625 --> 00:22:03,843 ♪ ♪ 385 00:22:03,887 --> 00:22:05,323 Muy bien. 386 00:22:07,891 --> 00:22:10,850 [light music] 387 00:22:17,466 --> 00:22:18,510 Aw. 388 00:22:22,471 --> 00:22:25,387 And now I'm hungry for that stuffed-pork dish. 389 00:22:26,997 --> 00:22:29,391 Time to fatten me up. 390 00:22:29,434 --> 00:22:31,393 Oh, my gosh, look at this. 391 00:22:33,917 --> 00:22:35,745 [sniffs] Wow. 392 00:22:35,788 --> 00:22:36,920 Oh, my gosh. 393 00:22:36,963 --> 00:22:39,226 And I get a bone. [gasps] 394 00:22:39,270 --> 00:22:41,838 I mean, look at that juice. 395 00:22:41,881 --> 00:22:44,275 And this is the potato puree. 396 00:22:45,537 --> 00:22:47,496 Wow. 397 00:22:47,539 --> 00:22:49,236 It smells... [sniffs] 398 00:22:49,280 --> 00:22:51,456 So good. 399 00:22:51,500 --> 00:22:52,544 Oh, my gosh. 400 00:22:54,981 --> 00:22:57,288 [indistinct chatter] 401 00:23:01,858 --> 00:23:04,164 God. 402 00:23:04,208 --> 00:23:07,777 It's falling right off the bone, and it's so soft, 403 00:23:07,820 --> 00:23:08,995 so flavorful. 404 00:23:09,039 --> 00:23:10,780 It has everything we put into it. 405 00:23:10,823 --> 00:23:12,390 It complements so well-- 406 00:23:12,434 --> 00:23:15,132 the pork with the cooked pineapple 407 00:23:15,175 --> 00:23:17,177 with this potato puree... 408 00:23:19,745 --> 00:23:20,833 - Sí. 409 00:23:20,877 --> 00:23:22,226 - Perfect combination. 410 00:23:22,269 --> 00:23:23,532 It's been such a privilege 411 00:23:23,575 --> 00:23:26,491 for me to spend time with the Muxes, 412 00:23:26,535 --> 00:23:29,363 who've cherished these incredible recipes 413 00:23:29,407 --> 00:23:32,802 and forged their own path in Oaxacan culture. 414 00:23:32,845 --> 00:23:34,456 I'm never leaving. 415 00:23:34,499 --> 00:23:35,457 Mmm. 416 00:23:47,991 --> 00:23:50,167 Salud. - Muchas gracias. 417 00:23:50,210 --> 00:23:52,909 - Muchas gracias, Feli. 418 00:24:01,221 --> 00:24:02,919 - An hour's drive from Oaxaca City 419 00:24:02,962 --> 00:24:06,488 lies the farming town of Santa Ana Zegache, 420 00:24:06,531 --> 00:24:09,578 the unassuming epicenter of corn. 421 00:24:11,580 --> 00:24:12,494 Mm-hmm. 422 00:24:18,587 --> 00:24:19,501 Mm. 423 00:24:23,592 --> 00:24:26,812 Amado Ramírez Leyva is my guide to this region, 424 00:24:26,856 --> 00:24:30,816 where corn has been worshipped for over 6,000 years 425 00:24:30,860 --> 00:24:34,298 and is still the beating heart of Mexican cuisine. 426 00:24:34,341 --> 00:24:36,909 Cut us, and we bleed yellow. 427 00:24:36,953 --> 00:24:40,086 [soft music] 428 00:24:40,130 --> 00:24:42,828 [dog barks, animal bleats] 429 00:24:42,872 --> 00:24:44,395 Hola. 430 00:24:46,919 --> 00:24:48,747 Soy Eva. 431 00:24:48,791 --> 00:24:50,749 Hola. 432 00:24:50,793 --> 00:24:52,490 Okay. 433 00:24:52,534 --> 00:24:56,450 Amado was battling to keep Oaxaca's ancient species alive 434 00:24:56,494 --> 00:25:00,716 by working with corn farmers like Ponciano Méndez Galván. 435 00:25:19,125 --> 00:25:20,605 [chuckles] 436 00:25:20,649 --> 00:25:23,347 Oh, my God, this color's beautiful. 437 00:25:23,390 --> 00:25:25,262 Look at this color. [gasps] 438 00:25:29,875 --> 00:25:31,094 Velatobo. 439 00:25:38,188 --> 00:25:40,233 Pinto. 440 00:25:42,801 --> 00:25:43,976 - Sí. 441 00:25:44,020 --> 00:25:46,588 - Have you ever seen such a rainbow of corn? 442 00:25:46,631 --> 00:25:49,460 The range of colors comes from growing crops 443 00:25:49,503 --> 00:25:50,940 at different altitudes 444 00:25:50,983 --> 00:25:53,029 and varying amounts of sunlight exposure. 445 00:25:53,072 --> 00:25:56,336 The darker heritage corns are often sweeter 446 00:25:56,380 --> 00:25:58,425 and more herbal than the yellow ones. 447 00:25:58,469 --> 00:26:00,340 So are these disappearing? 448 00:26:00,384 --> 00:26:02,342 Because all we ever see in the supermarkets is yellow. 449 00:26:02,386 --> 00:26:03,822 - Mm. Mm-hmm. 450 00:26:10,742 --> 00:26:11,830 - Mm-hmm. 451 00:26:22,188 --> 00:26:23,625 Tannins, yeah. 452 00:26:29,674 --> 00:26:31,197 - ¿Sí? - Sí. 453 00:26:31,241 --> 00:26:33,983 This was me when I was little, y'all. 454 00:26:34,026 --> 00:26:36,638 My dad would have me and my sisters peeling the corn. 455 00:26:36,681 --> 00:26:38,335 There'd be worms inside sometimes. 456 00:26:38,378 --> 00:26:40,337 That was a fun surprise. 457 00:26:40,380 --> 00:26:42,556 And we would have to fill all of these baskets, 458 00:26:42,600 --> 00:26:44,820 and we would go sell the corn, just the yellow ones. 459 00:26:44,863 --> 00:26:48,388 Sell it on the side of the road. 460 00:26:48,432 --> 00:26:50,695 - Sí. [laughter] 461 00:26:50,739 --> 00:26:53,829 - Unfortunately, Ponciano takes me up on the offer. 462 00:27:00,618 --> 00:27:02,315 Oh, my God! 463 00:27:02,359 --> 00:27:05,623 Now I've got to keep up with the hard-core 82-year-old 464 00:27:05,667 --> 00:27:07,059 as we clean the corn. 465 00:27:07,103 --> 00:27:08,670 Oh, yeah. 466 00:27:08,713 --> 00:27:10,802 This is a great workout. [chuckles] 467 00:27:10,846 --> 00:27:14,763 ♪ ♪ 468 00:27:16,460 --> 00:27:17,896 ¿Ya está? 469 00:27:19,724 --> 00:27:21,813 I've sure worked up an appetite. 470 00:27:21,857 --> 00:27:24,598 And as luck would have it, Ponciano's wife, Antonia, 471 00:27:24,642 --> 00:27:28,690 is making a traditional Zapotec farmer's breakfast. 472 00:27:36,785 --> 00:27:40,005 This Oaxacan vegetable soup, sopa de guías, 473 00:27:40,049 --> 00:27:43,182 is like a vegan super fuel packed with nutrients. 474 00:27:43,226 --> 00:27:44,923 It's perfect to come back to 475 00:27:44,967 --> 00:27:47,709 after toiling in the fields since sunrise. 476 00:28:03,899 --> 00:28:06,989 The herb chepil is native to Central America 477 00:28:07,032 --> 00:28:09,600 and tastes like spinach and watercress. 478 00:28:09,643 --> 00:28:12,255 But the soup gets its name from guías-- 479 00:28:12,298 --> 00:28:14,648 shoots of squash and their leaves 480 00:28:14,692 --> 00:28:16,955 bursting with vitamins and minerals. 481 00:28:21,307 --> 00:28:23,657 Wow. I love a good vegetable soup. 482 00:28:27,357 --> 00:28:28,837 ♪ I'm on fire ♪ 483 00:28:30,229 --> 00:28:31,796 Sí.[laughs] - Sí. 484 00:28:31,840 --> 00:28:35,278 ♪ ♪ 485 00:28:35,321 --> 00:28:38,237 And added last, so they keep their delicate form, 486 00:28:38,281 --> 00:28:39,848 the squash flowers. 487 00:28:41,327 --> 00:28:42,981 Such a beautiful green. 488 00:28:43,025 --> 00:28:45,418 ♪ ♪ 489 00:28:45,462 --> 00:28:47,203 [indistinct chatter] 490 00:28:47,246 --> 00:28:50,772 Ponciano's hardworking family have gathered for breakfast. 491 00:28:56,429 --> 00:28:57,996 And the star of the meal 492 00:28:58,040 --> 00:29:01,478 is, of course, their beautiful corn. 493 00:29:01,521 --> 00:29:03,349 It's so good. I'm so hungry. 494 00:29:03,393 --> 00:29:04,829 [gasps] 495 00:29:07,353 --> 00:29:08,746 Wow. 496 00:29:08,790 --> 00:29:11,183 Oh, my God. 497 00:29:11,227 --> 00:29:12,489 - Sí. 498 00:29:14,578 --> 00:29:16,362 I love everything has lemon in Mexico, 499 00:29:16,406 --> 00:29:19,235 even vegetable soup. 500 00:29:19,278 --> 00:29:23,065 It's wonderful eating this delicious simple food 501 00:29:23,108 --> 00:29:25,067 with the family who grew it on their land, 502 00:29:25,110 --> 00:29:27,460 just like their ancient ancestors did 503 00:29:27,504 --> 00:29:29,549 for thousands of years. 504 00:29:29,593 --> 00:29:31,769 I know corn is important to Mexico, 505 00:29:31,813 --> 00:29:33,684 but I never knew it was endemic to Oaxaca. 506 00:29:33,727 --> 00:29:37,427 Que nació aquí. It was born here. 507 00:29:45,783 --> 00:29:47,524 [laughs] 508 00:29:56,620 --> 00:29:59,318 [indistinct chatter] 509 00:30:06,238 --> 00:30:09,154 [upbeat music] 510 00:30:09,198 --> 00:30:10,590 ♪ ♪ 511 00:30:10,634 --> 00:30:14,594 - Oh, look at these agave. 512 00:30:14,638 --> 00:30:16,988 Oaxaca is the land of the agave plant. 513 00:30:17,032 --> 00:30:19,817 And where there's agave, there's mezcal-- 514 00:30:19,861 --> 00:30:22,994 the smoky liquor this region is famed for. 515 00:30:23,038 --> 00:30:25,562 I've always been more of a tequila girl myself, 516 00:30:25,605 --> 00:30:28,478 so I'm off to apalenque, an agave farm, 517 00:30:28,521 --> 00:30:30,784 for a little mezcal education 518 00:30:30,828 --> 00:30:33,657 in San Baltazar Chichicapam. 519 00:30:33,700 --> 00:30:35,528 And I'm excited because this palenque 520 00:30:35,572 --> 00:30:38,705 has a maestra mezcalera, 521 00:30:38,749 --> 00:30:42,144 which is a female master of mezcal. 522 00:30:42,187 --> 00:30:45,408 And it's very rare in the mezcal industry. 523 00:30:45,451 --> 00:30:48,585 Tequila is only made from blue agave, 524 00:30:48,628 --> 00:30:52,110 while mezcal uses a variety of species. 525 00:30:52,154 --> 00:30:56,375 So, to see the field out here with all this diverse agave 526 00:30:56,419 --> 00:30:59,117 is pretty cool. 527 00:30:59,161 --> 00:31:01,641 Hot, arid plains are the perfect breeding ground, 528 00:31:01,685 --> 00:31:03,252 but you got to be patient. 529 00:31:03,295 --> 00:31:07,082 Some agave can take over 30 years to mature. 530 00:31:13,479 --> 00:31:14,698 Hola. 531 00:31:16,918 --> 00:31:19,094 Connoisseur Sylvia Philion 532 00:31:19,137 --> 00:31:21,618 champions traditional producers. 533 00:31:24,664 --> 00:31:27,015 A mezcal authority, three years ago, 534 00:31:27,058 --> 00:31:29,931 she discovered doña Berta's artisanal spirit. 535 00:31:29,974 --> 00:31:32,281 - What doña Berta is doing now-- 536 00:31:32,324 --> 00:31:35,197 how we say it in Oaxaca... 537 00:31:35,240 --> 00:31:36,807 shaving the agave. 538 00:31:36,850 --> 00:31:38,765 - And what type is this one? 539 00:31:40,637 --> 00:31:42,030 both: Cuishe. 540 00:31:42,073 --> 00:31:43,248 - This is a species 541 00:31:43,292 --> 00:31:45,120 that you can only find in Oaxaca, actually. 542 00:31:45,163 --> 00:31:47,122 - Okay. 543 00:31:47,165 --> 00:31:49,776 - What she's doing is she's taking out all the leaves 544 00:31:49,820 --> 00:31:51,996 so we can have the heart of the agave. 545 00:31:52,040 --> 00:31:53,780 - And this is the part that's gonna be cooked? 546 00:31:53,824 --> 00:31:54,956 - Yes. 547 00:31:58,742 --> 00:32:01,658 [surf rock music] 548 00:32:01,701 --> 00:32:04,574 So this is a very important part of the process. 549 00:32:04,617 --> 00:32:07,403 This is where mezcal takes the smoky qualities 550 00:32:07,446 --> 00:32:08,970 and flavors and aromas. - Mm-hmm. 551 00:32:09,013 --> 00:32:10,145 - And this is 552 00:32:10,188 --> 00:32:12,495 what differentiates mezcal from tequila, 553 00:32:12,538 --> 00:32:13,975 because tequila is not using 554 00:32:14,018 --> 00:32:15,846 an earth oven to cook the agave. 555 00:32:15,889 --> 00:32:17,848 It's using machinery to cook it. 556 00:32:17,891 --> 00:32:20,329 - Mezcal maestra doña Berta's earth oven 557 00:32:20,372 --> 00:32:23,332 is lined with rocks and heated by firewood. 558 00:32:23,375 --> 00:32:25,769 The agave hearts roast slowly, 559 00:32:25,812 --> 00:32:27,727 releasing their natural sugars 560 00:32:27,771 --> 00:32:31,166 and develop that distinctive smoky flavor. 561 00:32:31,209 --> 00:32:33,516 And how old is the technique? 562 00:32:33,559 --> 00:32:35,387 - The earth oven is pre-Hispanic. 563 00:32:35,431 --> 00:32:38,347 Actually, in many pre-Hispanic cities around Mexico, 564 00:32:38,390 --> 00:32:39,913 we find earth ovens. 565 00:32:39,957 --> 00:32:44,222 And the word "mezcal" comes from the pre-Hispanic language 566 00:32:44,266 --> 00:32:46,007 from the Aztecs. 567 00:32:46,050 --> 00:32:48,487 And mexcallimeans cooked agave in an earth oven. 568 00:32:48,531 --> 00:32:49,706 - Wow. 569 00:32:52,143 --> 00:32:54,015 [laughter] 570 00:32:57,235 --> 00:33:00,151 She doesn't trust me to put in a bigger one. 571 00:33:00,195 --> 00:33:01,196 - [chuckles] 572 00:33:05,026 --> 00:33:06,636 - Sí. 573 00:33:09,160 --> 00:33:11,380 - To close up the holes, I'm gonna put it there. 574 00:33:11,423 --> 00:33:13,730 - Mm-hmm. - [speaking Spanish] 575 00:33:13,773 --> 00:33:16,907 - [laughs] - [speaking Spanish] 576 00:33:16,950 --> 00:33:18,996 - Yay! 577 00:33:19,040 --> 00:33:22,521 - The hearts are then covered with crushed agave husk 578 00:33:22,565 --> 00:33:23,914 for the cooking process, 579 00:33:23,957 --> 00:33:26,830 which can take up to five days. 580 00:33:36,100 --> 00:33:38,842 - Then you're gonna put some soil on top. 581 00:33:42,063 --> 00:33:44,282 - I love seeing her boss everybody around. 582 00:33:44,326 --> 00:33:45,501 - Sí. 583 00:33:45,544 --> 00:33:47,242 - She's like, "You're doing it wrong." 584 00:33:47,285 --> 00:33:48,765 - [laughing] Sí. 585 00:33:51,028 --> 00:33:53,161 I feel like I've slipped back in time. 586 00:33:53,204 --> 00:33:55,293 Oaxacan families have been making alcohol 587 00:33:55,337 --> 00:33:57,774 from roasted agave for centuries, 588 00:33:57,817 --> 00:34:00,559 but the Spanish brought copper stills, 589 00:34:00,603 --> 00:34:02,387 which took it to another level 590 00:34:02,431 --> 00:34:06,130 and helped create the smooth mezcal we know today. 591 00:34:06,174 --> 00:34:09,612 The Aztec goddess of fertility and agave, Mayahuel, 592 00:34:09,655 --> 00:34:12,093 watches over the family's production. 593 00:34:17,010 --> 00:34:19,622 And then to cover all religious bases... 594 00:34:19,665 --> 00:34:21,624 Oh, wow. And this is all her mezcal? 595 00:34:21,667 --> 00:34:23,060 - Yes. 596 00:34:23,104 --> 00:34:25,149 - So she keeps all the mezcal in the altar? 597 00:34:25,193 --> 00:34:27,499 The precious stash is stored under the watchful eyes 598 00:34:27,543 --> 00:34:28,805 of Jesus. 599 00:34:44,386 --> 00:34:45,996 - [chuckles] 600 00:35:04,493 --> 00:35:05,711 - Oh, wow. 601 00:35:19,595 --> 00:35:23,512 - Because she worked harder and longer and faster... 602 00:35:23,555 --> 00:35:25,035 - Yes. - They didn't like that. 603 00:35:25,078 --> 00:35:26,689 - They didn't like that. - [laughs] 604 00:35:29,126 --> 00:35:30,171 Oh, sí. 605 00:35:32,564 --> 00:35:33,913 Ooh. 606 00:35:35,524 --> 00:35:38,353 - And remember that cuishe is endemic to Oaxaca. 607 00:35:38,396 --> 00:35:40,006 - Okay. 608 00:35:40,050 --> 00:35:42,052 - Gracias, doña Berta. 609 00:35:50,756 --> 00:35:54,064 ♪ ♪ 610 00:35:54,107 --> 00:35:58,199 - The mezcal has a light, floral, almost herbal taste. 611 00:35:58,242 --> 00:36:01,767 Doña Berta has worked her magic, 612 00:36:01,811 --> 00:36:03,204 and I'm converted. 613 00:36:03,247 --> 00:36:05,031 Mmm. That's really good. 614 00:36:08,296 --> 00:36:11,690 [laughter] 615 00:36:11,734 --> 00:36:14,215 - Orale. Salud. 616 00:36:24,573 --> 00:36:27,532 [light rock music] 617 00:36:27,576 --> 00:36:28,838 ♪ ♪ 618 00:36:28,881 --> 00:36:31,754 Hola. 619 00:36:31,797 --> 00:36:33,669 Bien. Gracias. 620 00:36:33,712 --> 00:36:35,801 Mucho gusto. 621 00:36:37,542 --> 00:36:38,935 - Sí. 622 00:36:38,978 --> 00:36:40,719 - God, look at the color. 623 00:36:42,330 --> 00:36:43,853 Mm-hmm. 624 00:36:43,896 --> 00:36:46,377 Oaxaca's varied altitude and climate 625 00:36:46,421 --> 00:36:50,120 means even simple produce is extraordinary. 626 00:36:50,163 --> 00:36:53,254 Rising star chef Thalía Barrios García 627 00:36:53,297 --> 00:36:55,604 has made the ingredients of her hometown 628 00:36:55,647 --> 00:36:59,260 the main draw of her hipster restaurants. 629 00:37:11,402 --> 00:37:13,535 Oh. 630 00:37:13,578 --> 00:37:15,188 Okay. 631 00:37:15,232 --> 00:37:18,279 These juicy rastrojo and bola tomatoes 632 00:37:18,322 --> 00:37:19,845 are grown among oak trees, 633 00:37:19,889 --> 00:37:22,631 which conserve water and enrich the black soil 634 00:37:22,674 --> 00:37:25,329 of mountains near Thalía's remote village. 635 00:37:28,550 --> 00:37:30,813 So tomatoes are from South America, 636 00:37:30,856 --> 00:37:32,684 but it was the Mexicans 637 00:37:32,728 --> 00:37:34,947 that decided to eat them... [laughs] 638 00:37:34,991 --> 00:37:37,385 and plant them, grow them, put them in the kitchen. 639 00:37:37,428 --> 00:37:38,429 - Sí. 640 00:37:38,473 --> 00:37:41,258 - I think a lot of people assume-- 641 00:37:45,349 --> 00:37:46,307 Mm-hmm. 642 00:37:52,617 --> 00:37:54,053 Okay. 643 00:37:54,097 --> 00:37:55,185 Wow. 644 00:37:58,231 --> 00:37:59,320 - Sí. 645 00:38:02,801 --> 00:38:04,760 - [gasps] Wow. 646 00:38:04,803 --> 00:38:06,762 Lots and lots of tomatoes. 647 00:38:06,805 --> 00:38:08,807 Oh, my God, these are beautiful. 648 00:38:08,851 --> 00:38:10,026 - Sí. 649 00:38:13,464 --> 00:38:14,552 - Oh. 650 00:38:19,557 --> 00:38:21,559 Okay. 651 00:38:21,603 --> 00:38:23,779 These tomatoes are grown from seeds 652 00:38:23,822 --> 00:38:26,216 passed down from generation to generation 653 00:38:26,259 --> 00:38:28,523 over thousands of years. 654 00:38:38,663 --> 00:38:41,362 The sweeter ones grow in the valleys, 655 00:38:41,405 --> 00:38:43,973 where they soak up sun and water, 656 00:38:44,016 --> 00:38:45,757 while the mountain ones get less light 657 00:38:45,801 --> 00:38:48,412 and are slightly bitter. 658 00:38:48,456 --> 00:38:51,415 Mmm. I use probably, like, 20 of these a day, 659 00:38:51,459 --> 00:38:53,417 'cause my husband loves tomatillo salsa. 660 00:38:58,683 --> 00:38:59,597 Sí. 661 00:39:01,425 --> 00:39:04,123 We're making Thalía's iconic dish-- 662 00:39:04,167 --> 00:39:07,039 a simple tomato salad, Oaxacan style. 663 00:39:07,083 --> 00:39:10,608 Have you seen a more perfect tomato? 664 00:39:10,652 --> 00:39:12,044 A warning, though-- 665 00:39:12,088 --> 00:39:14,307 once discovered, you will never go 666 00:39:14,351 --> 00:39:16,962 back to the ordinary supermarket tomato. 667 00:39:23,795 --> 00:39:25,406 Look at this. 668 00:39:25,449 --> 00:39:28,583 Oh, gosh, this is so beautiful, I don't want to mess it up. 669 00:39:28,626 --> 00:39:31,542 I don't even want to cut it, he's so pretty. 670 00:39:33,501 --> 00:39:36,939 The sweetness of this bright-purple beet puree 671 00:39:36,982 --> 00:39:38,941 balances the tomato's acidity. 672 00:39:38,984 --> 00:39:41,552 There's barely any seeds in this purple one. 673 00:39:41,596 --> 00:39:42,597 - Sí. 674 00:39:42,640 --> 00:39:46,383 [light music] 675 00:39:47,428 --> 00:39:49,604 Is this a vinaigrette? - Sí. 676 00:39:50,996 --> 00:39:52,258 - Mm-hmm. 677 00:39:54,739 --> 00:39:56,437 Okay. Mm-hmm. Pero... 678 00:39:58,656 --> 00:40:00,397 Mmm, very refreshing. 679 00:40:00,441 --> 00:40:01,877 Oh, look at that. 680 00:40:01,920 --> 00:40:07,448 ♪ ♪ 681 00:40:07,491 --> 00:40:09,798 Look at this. 682 00:40:09,841 --> 00:40:13,105 Is that not the most beautiful combination of tomatoes 683 00:40:13,149 --> 00:40:14,629 you've ever seen? 684 00:40:21,984 --> 00:40:23,202 Mmm. 685 00:40:25,857 --> 00:40:27,293 Not only the taste-- 686 00:40:27,337 --> 00:40:30,471 I think my favorite is this red one. 687 00:40:30,514 --> 00:40:32,995 This is my favorite. - [chuckles] 688 00:40:37,042 --> 00:40:38,957 - Ah, el morado. - Sí. 689 00:40:39,001 --> 00:40:40,306 - A ver. 690 00:40:40,350 --> 00:40:42,483 Let's have the purple one. 691 00:40:42,526 --> 00:40:45,311 ♪ ♪ 692 00:40:45,355 --> 00:40:47,662 [gasps] Oh, no, I think that's my favorite. 693 00:40:47,705 --> 00:40:48,706 - [laughs] - Wow. 694 00:40:48,750 --> 00:40:50,273 You know what? 695 00:40:50,316 --> 00:40:52,144 It has the texture of a radish. 696 00:40:53,711 --> 00:40:55,060 Mmm. 697 00:40:55,104 --> 00:40:57,628 That herbal dressing with this beet puree, 698 00:40:57,672 --> 00:41:01,110 with the texture of the tomato, with the salt--oh, my God. 699 00:41:01,153 --> 00:41:03,504 I think this is, like, the perfect dish. 700 00:41:24,046 --> 00:41:26,004 Mm-hmm. Exactamente. - Sí. 701 00:41:26,048 --> 00:41:30,400 ♪ ♪ 702 00:41:30,443 --> 00:41:34,970 - Oaxaca has been a culinary explosion 703 00:41:35,013 --> 00:41:37,059 in my head and in my mouth. 704 00:41:37,102 --> 00:41:40,541 It is on another level gastronomically. 705 00:41:40,584 --> 00:41:43,718 One of the best places I've been to in the world. 706 00:41:43,761 --> 00:41:46,459 Oaxaca's full of so many Indigenous cultures 707 00:41:46,503 --> 00:41:48,723 holding on to their traditions. 708 00:41:48,766 --> 00:41:51,595 They honor their past techniques and ingredients, 709 00:41:51,639 --> 00:41:54,250 but they don't live in the past. 710 00:41:54,293 --> 00:41:56,644 They have called the world to Oaxaca 711 00:41:56,687 --> 00:41:59,647 'cause they want to share everything with the world. 712 00:41:59,690 --> 00:42:01,910 And they're doing it beautifully. 713 00:42:01,953 --> 00:42:04,913 ♪ ♪