1 00:00:08,225 --> 00:00:10,836 - Around 400 years ago, a Spanish nobleman 2 00:00:10,879 --> 00:00:12,664 set sail for the New World. 3 00:00:12,707 --> 00:00:16,407 His name--Lorenzo Longoria. 4 00:00:16,450 --> 00:00:18,713 My ancestor's arrival in the Port of Veracruz, 5 00:00:18,757 --> 00:00:21,760 along with millions of others through the centuries, 6 00:00:21,803 --> 00:00:24,415 changed history, creating modern Mexico, 7 00:00:24,458 --> 00:00:27,287 and a gateway between it and the rest of the world. 8 00:00:27,331 --> 00:00:30,856 This is the cradle of Mexico. Everything started here. 9 00:00:30,899 --> 00:00:33,206 It's also the cradle of Mexican gastronomy 10 00:00:33,250 --> 00:00:36,644 because all ingredients landed in this spot. 11 00:00:36,688 --> 00:00:39,865 And all the ingredients from Mexico left from here-- 12 00:00:39,908 --> 00:00:42,433 chocolate, vanilla, the tomato. 13 00:00:42,476 --> 00:00:45,871 Can you imagine Italian cuisine without the tomato 14 00:00:45,914 --> 00:00:49,266 or French pastries without chocolate and vanilla? 15 00:00:49,309 --> 00:00:50,267 Impossible. 16 00:00:50,310 --> 00:00:52,834 [upbeat music] 17 00:00:52,878 --> 00:00:55,010 The people of Veracruz took this treasure trove 18 00:00:55,054 --> 00:00:58,101 of ingredients passing in and out of the port 19 00:00:58,144 --> 00:01:00,277 and created a whole new cuisine. 20 00:01:03,628 --> 00:01:05,108 Wow. 21 00:01:05,151 --> 00:01:07,849 I'm Eva Longoria, born and bred in Texas 22 00:01:07,893 --> 00:01:11,636 with Mexican-American roots, which makes me a Texican. 23 00:01:11,679 --> 00:01:14,726 I'm exploring Mexico to see how the people, their lands, 24 00:01:14,769 --> 00:01:17,816 and their past have shaped a culinary tradition 25 00:01:17,859 --> 00:01:20,993 as diverse as its 32 states. 26 00:01:25,040 --> 00:01:27,304 The port's strategic position saw 27 00:01:27,347 --> 00:01:29,958 Veracruzanos fight off repeated invasions 28 00:01:30,002 --> 00:01:31,743 right into the 20th century. 29 00:01:35,007 --> 00:01:37,183 But this history of conflict, 30 00:01:37,227 --> 00:01:40,099 from Indigenous power struggles to African slavery, 31 00:01:40,143 --> 00:01:42,101 created a cultural Big Bang... 32 00:01:46,845 --> 00:01:48,803 With a legacy of strong flavors... 33 00:01:48,847 --> 00:01:49,978 Oh, my God. 34 00:01:50,022 --> 00:01:51,328 Pioneered by strong women. 35 00:01:55,810 --> 00:01:57,464 I will. [laughs] 36 00:01:57,508 --> 00:02:00,946 Veracruzanos are famous for their defiant spirit. 37 00:02:00,989 --> 00:02:03,253 - We're known as... 38 00:02:04,993 --> 00:02:07,257 - Matched only by a lust for life. 39 00:02:09,694 --> 00:02:12,349 Oh, so don't forget to pack your dancing shoes. 40 00:02:12,392 --> 00:02:15,787 [cheers and applause] 41 00:02:15,830 --> 00:02:18,790 [steady music] 42 00:02:18,833 --> 00:02:25,449 ♪ ♪ 43 00:02:30,845 --> 00:02:33,761 [upbeat music] 44 00:02:33,805 --> 00:02:37,243 ♪ ♪ 45 00:02:37,287 --> 00:02:40,855 This is the exact spot my 13th great-grandfather landed, 46 00:02:40,899 --> 00:02:42,901 right here in the Port of Veracruz from Spain. 47 00:02:42,944 --> 00:02:44,076 He was 11 years old, 48 00:02:44,119 --> 00:02:46,078 so it's kind of amazing 49 00:02:46,121 --> 00:02:48,211 I'm walking in his footsteps right now. 50 00:02:48,254 --> 00:02:50,648 And I'm going to discover the diversity 51 00:02:50,691 --> 00:02:53,390 that Veracruz has to offer. 52 00:02:53,433 --> 00:02:56,262 Only 60 miles wide, Veracruz stretches 53 00:02:56,306 --> 00:02:59,352 some 400 miles along the Gulf Coast. 54 00:03:01,311 --> 00:03:05,315 These warm waters are home to around 120 species of fish. 55 00:03:06,881 --> 00:03:10,015 But fishermen have been selling just five of them, 56 00:03:10,058 --> 00:03:13,018 bringing them close to extinction. 57 00:03:13,061 --> 00:03:15,194 Now an award-winning chef is campaigning 58 00:03:15,238 --> 00:03:17,196 to cast the net wider. 59 00:03:21,983 --> 00:03:23,985 Hola! - Eva, ¿cómo estás? 60 00:03:24,029 --> 00:03:25,857 - Muy bien. 61 00:03:27,946 --> 00:03:28,990 Gracias. 62 00:03:29,034 --> 00:03:31,863 This is a beautiful restaurant. 63 00:03:31,906 --> 00:03:33,343 Erick Guerrero left 64 00:03:33,386 --> 00:03:35,997 Mexico City's world-famous Pujol restaurant 65 00:03:36,041 --> 00:03:38,086 to return home on a one-man mission 66 00:03:38,130 --> 00:03:42,830 to transform the fishing industry in Veracruz. 67 00:03:42,874 --> 00:03:45,224 So this was caught this morning? 68 00:03:45,268 --> 00:03:48,227 And what type of fish is this? 69 00:03:48,271 --> 00:03:49,533 Okay. 70 00:03:49,576 --> 00:03:51,361 I know it's not the prettiest thing, 71 00:03:51,404 --> 00:03:54,668 but Erick's not one to judge by appearances. 72 00:03:54,712 --> 00:03:55,843 - Okay... 73 00:03:59,934 --> 00:04:02,285 - It's a lazy fish. Flojo, muy flojo. 74 00:04:02,328 --> 00:04:03,286 [laughs] 75 00:04:07,986 --> 00:04:09,292 Yeah. 76 00:04:11,642 --> 00:04:13,557 Why do you care so much... 77 00:04:34,317 --> 00:04:35,709 What are we going to make with the fish? 78 00:04:35,753 --> 00:04:36,971 - Un ceviche. 79 00:04:37,015 --> 00:04:39,234 - Oh, I love ceviche. 80 00:04:39,278 --> 00:04:40,888 What's the name? - Boquilla. 81 00:04:40,932 --> 00:04:42,150 - Boquilla. - Boquilla. 82 00:04:42,194 --> 00:04:44,022 - Of course, for his mouth. 83 00:04:44,065 --> 00:04:45,850 Also known as sailor's grunt, 84 00:04:45,893 --> 00:04:49,680 this guy might not be an obvious choice for ceviche, 85 00:04:49,723 --> 00:04:51,551 but it's got Erick's vote. 86 00:04:59,820 --> 00:05:01,996 Look at that. That's beautiful. 87 00:05:03,389 --> 00:05:06,174 It doesn't even smell like fish. 88 00:05:09,047 --> 00:05:10,135 Yep. 89 00:05:10,178 --> 00:05:12,137 A little onion and jicama... 90 00:05:12,180 --> 00:05:14,052 I love jicama 'cause it gives a good crunch. 91 00:05:15,967 --> 00:05:17,360 Okay. 92 00:05:17,403 --> 00:05:19,449 A drizzle of lemon oil... 93 00:05:24,541 --> 00:05:25,368 What? 94 00:05:25,411 --> 00:05:27,631 I love frijoles in anything! 95 00:05:29,067 --> 00:05:30,460 But are they hot? 96 00:05:40,731 --> 00:05:42,167 Uh-huh. 97 00:05:44,212 --> 00:05:46,084 Some avocado and dressing... 98 00:05:46,127 --> 00:05:47,128 ¿Así? 99 00:05:47,172 --> 00:05:49,392 Oh, that's so beautiful! 100 00:05:50,828 --> 00:05:51,872 Okay. 101 00:05:51,916 --> 00:05:53,961 And we're done. 102 00:05:54,005 --> 00:05:56,964 Do I just scoop it, or what happens? 103 00:05:59,184 --> 00:06:00,620 - Exacto. 104 00:06:04,929 --> 00:06:06,496 Mmm. 105 00:06:06,539 --> 00:06:08,323 Oh, my God. 106 00:06:08,367 --> 00:06:09,803 This has changed my life. 107 00:06:09,847 --> 00:06:13,590 I'm now going to make ceviche with frijoles forever. 108 00:06:13,633 --> 00:06:15,940 This is amazing. 109 00:06:15,983 --> 00:06:19,247 For me, the contrast of hot beans with cold ceviche 110 00:06:19,291 --> 00:06:21,511 is a revelation. 111 00:06:21,554 --> 00:06:23,295 And who would have thought those ugly fish 112 00:06:23,338 --> 00:06:25,776 could taste so exquisite? 113 00:06:25,819 --> 00:06:28,822 But apparently there's more. 114 00:06:28,866 --> 00:06:31,738 These are soft-shell crabs? 115 00:06:31,782 --> 00:06:33,131 Uh-huh. 116 00:06:33,174 --> 00:06:36,308 But this is the most popular. [chuckles] 117 00:06:36,351 --> 00:06:38,745 These blue crabs must be caught 118 00:06:38,789 --> 00:06:41,052 just before they shed their exoskeleton 119 00:06:41,095 --> 00:06:43,924 and then cooked straight after while they're still soft. 120 00:06:43,968 --> 00:06:46,057 [oil bubbling] 121 00:06:46,100 --> 00:06:47,537 Oh, my God. 122 00:06:51,497 --> 00:06:54,413 Oh, look at that. That's gorgeous. 123 00:06:58,765 --> 00:07:01,812 - So the tamarindo goes first? - Exacto. 124 00:07:01,855 --> 00:07:04,902 - Soft-shell crabs thrive in warm waters of the Gulf, 125 00:07:04,945 --> 00:07:06,643 making them an easy catch-- 126 00:07:06,686 --> 00:07:09,472 not a bad thing from where I'm standing. 127 00:07:12,039 --> 00:07:13,476 Uh-huh. 128 00:07:18,481 --> 00:07:19,917 [laughs] 129 00:07:19,960 --> 00:07:22,746 Ooh, purple onion. 130 00:07:22,789 --> 00:07:24,661 Chile. 131 00:07:24,704 --> 00:07:27,490 It wouldn't be Mexican if there wasn't chile y limón. 132 00:07:30,318 --> 00:07:31,972 - Ahí vamos. Ahí vamos. - Ahí vamos. 133 00:07:32,016 --> 00:07:33,452 It's so crispy. 134 00:07:40,981 --> 00:07:42,592 Wow. 135 00:07:42,635 --> 00:07:45,682 That's a great combination-- the tamarindo with the crab. 136 00:07:45,725 --> 00:07:47,466 So refreshing. 137 00:07:48,902 --> 00:07:50,251 - No. 138 00:07:50,295 --> 00:07:52,210 - What do you want the world to know 139 00:07:52,253 --> 00:07:54,299 about the cuisine of Veracruz? 140 00:08:02,873 --> 00:08:06,790 - [laughing] Eso. 141 00:08:06,833 --> 00:08:09,532 Erick's passion for cooking with every type of fish 142 00:08:09,575 --> 00:08:12,273 from Veracruz makes him a hero in my book, 143 00:08:12,317 --> 00:08:13,579 and I'll drink to that. 144 00:08:24,024 --> 00:08:26,940 [upbeat music] 145 00:08:26,984 --> 00:08:29,813 ♪ ♪ 146 00:08:29,856 --> 00:08:31,423 - I love coffee. 147 00:08:31,466 --> 00:08:35,862 And it came to Mexico via, yep, Veracruz. 148 00:08:35,906 --> 00:08:39,736 It arrived here from the Caribbean in the 18th century 149 00:08:39,779 --> 00:08:42,913 before passing on throughout Latin America. 150 00:08:42,956 --> 00:08:46,133 I enjoy it best with friends. 151 00:08:46,177 --> 00:08:47,744 [screams] 152 00:08:47,787 --> 00:08:50,573 Likemi amiga, actress Ana de la Reguera. 153 00:08:50,616 --> 00:08:54,098 - ¿Cómo estás? How are you? 154 00:08:54,141 --> 00:08:56,840 I know! I'm so excited that you're here! 155 00:08:56,883 --> 00:09:00,104 - I can't believe it. This is a crazy-busy place. 156 00:09:00,147 --> 00:09:03,455 La Parroquia, said to be Mexico's oldest cafe, 157 00:09:03,498 --> 00:09:05,892 is one of Ana's favorite haunts. 158 00:09:05,936 --> 00:09:08,068 So Veracruz is super special to you. 159 00:09:08,112 --> 00:09:11,245 Obviously, you're from here. - Yes, I was born here. 160 00:09:11,289 --> 00:09:13,117 And my family's still here. 161 00:09:13,160 --> 00:09:16,076 - What does the rest of Mexico think of Veracruz? 162 00:09:16,120 --> 00:09:18,949 - We are known as... 163 00:09:18,992 --> 00:09:20,080 - [laughs] 164 00:09:20,124 --> 00:09:21,299 - Because I guess we're prankers, 165 00:09:21,342 --> 00:09:24,737 and we're always saying, like... 166 00:09:24,781 --> 00:09:25,956 So, okay. 167 00:09:25,999 --> 00:09:28,262 So we are known because of our sense of humor. 168 00:09:28,306 --> 00:09:29,568 - Sense of humor. 169 00:09:29,612 --> 00:09:30,787 - We're very good also at dancing. 170 00:09:30,830 --> 00:09:33,006 The danzónis from here. Salsa. 171 00:09:33,050 --> 00:09:35,792 - Everything started here. - Exactly. Exactly. 172 00:09:35,835 --> 00:09:38,142 A lot of first things happened here. 173 00:09:38,185 --> 00:09:39,447 You know, the conquis-- 174 00:09:39,491 --> 00:09:40,797 you know, the Spanish came through Veracruz. 175 00:09:40,840 --> 00:09:43,321 The coffee--that's why coffee, the first place. 176 00:09:43,364 --> 00:09:44,278 Hi! - [speaking Spanish] 177 00:09:44,322 --> 00:09:46,411 - Oh, my God. 178 00:09:50,241 --> 00:09:51,982 - Okay. - Perfecto. 179 00:09:52,025 --> 00:09:54,114 - [tapping glass] - Exactly! 180 00:09:54,158 --> 00:09:55,594 - Yay! - So... 181 00:09:55,638 --> 00:09:57,814 - I'm a Veracruzana. - There he is. 182 00:09:57,857 --> 00:09:58,858 - Oh, that was fast. 183 00:09:58,902 --> 00:09:59,946 ¿Es leche? - That's leche. 184 00:09:59,990 --> 00:10:01,687 - Okay. 185 00:10:01,731 --> 00:10:03,471 - You can tell him how much milk that you have. 186 00:10:03,515 --> 00:10:04,734 - Ya, ya, ya, ya. 187 00:10:04,777 --> 00:10:06,431 - [tapping glass] 188 00:10:06,474 --> 00:10:09,390 [light music] 189 00:10:09,434 --> 00:10:11,262 ♪ ♪ 190 00:10:11,305 --> 00:10:13,177 This is so fun. 191 00:10:13,220 --> 00:10:15,875 Ringing the glass with a spoon is a tradition 192 00:10:15,919 --> 00:10:19,618 that started way back in the late 19th century, 193 00:10:19,662 --> 00:10:22,534 when tram drivers in the port rang their bells 194 00:10:22,577 --> 00:10:25,668 to order a coffee as they passed. 195 00:10:25,711 --> 00:10:27,191 Mmm. 196 00:10:27,234 --> 00:10:28,975 - Is it good? - Oh, my God. 197 00:10:29,019 --> 00:10:31,369 - I really recommend you to go to the coffee fields. 198 00:10:31,412 --> 00:10:32,587 - Where are they? 199 00:10:32,631 --> 00:10:34,067 In the mountains? - In the mountains. 200 00:10:34,111 --> 00:10:36,287 - No, I'm definitely going to go see the coffee fields. 201 00:10:36,330 --> 00:10:38,028 That's, like... - Yes. 202 00:10:38,071 --> 00:10:39,725 - Top of my list. 203 00:10:39,769 --> 00:10:41,988 Well, you don't need to tell me twice. 204 00:10:42,032 --> 00:10:45,078 This is so beautiful. 205 00:10:45,122 --> 00:10:46,776 After coffee arrived here, 206 00:10:46,819 --> 00:10:50,214 Veracruzanos took it inland to cultivate it, 207 00:10:50,257 --> 00:10:51,868 where it flourished, 208 00:10:51,911 --> 00:10:54,131 before exporting it back to the rest of the world. 209 00:10:54,174 --> 00:10:57,090 [upbeat music] 210 00:10:57,134 --> 00:11:00,354 ♪ ♪ 211 00:11:00,398 --> 00:11:03,749 This landscape is amazing. 212 00:11:03,793 --> 00:11:05,795 I don't feel like I'm in Mexico. 213 00:11:05,838 --> 00:11:07,797 I feel like I'm in an Amazon rain forest. 214 00:11:09,886 --> 00:11:13,933 Today Veracruz produces around a quarter of Mexico's coffee, 215 00:11:13,977 --> 00:11:18,024 which thrives in the shade and altitude of mountain areas 216 00:11:18,068 --> 00:11:20,418 like Coetzala. 217 00:11:20,461 --> 00:11:22,246 The cooler temperatures up here 218 00:11:22,289 --> 00:11:23,638 slow the growth of the beans, 219 00:11:23,682 --> 00:11:26,032 making them sweeter and more dense, 220 00:11:26,076 --> 00:11:30,080 and the denser the bean, the better the flavor. 221 00:11:30,123 --> 00:11:31,081 Hola. - Hola. 222 00:11:31,124 --> 00:11:32,473 Hi, Eva. How are you? 223 00:11:32,517 --> 00:11:34,432 - Muy bien. Nice to meet you. 224 00:11:34,475 --> 00:11:37,130 - Welcome to Coetzala. - Thank you. 225 00:11:37,174 --> 00:11:39,176 - And this is a coffee field. 226 00:11:39,219 --> 00:11:40,655 - My guide, Itzel Mendoza, 227 00:11:40,699 --> 00:11:42,657 is passionate about these coffee fields 228 00:11:42,701 --> 00:11:45,617 and supporting local women in agriculture. 229 00:11:45,660 --> 00:11:48,098 - This is the plant of the coffee--look. 230 00:11:48,141 --> 00:11:50,143 - Oh, my God, look at this. Oh, is this a bean? 231 00:11:50,187 --> 00:11:52,798 - Yes. That's a bean. - Oh, I found one already. 232 00:11:52,842 --> 00:11:54,495 - Yes. 233 00:11:54,539 --> 00:11:57,281 - In the 1990s, coffee prices plummeted, 234 00:11:57,324 --> 00:11:59,979 driving farmers to the U.S. in search of work 235 00:12:00,023 --> 00:12:03,113 and leaving many women behind to fend for themselves. 236 00:12:03,156 --> 00:12:06,638 - A lot of men-- they went to the north, 237 00:12:06,681 --> 00:12:09,119 and these coffee fields were no-- 238 00:12:09,162 --> 00:12:10,555 - Abandoned. - Yes, abandoned. 239 00:12:10,598 --> 00:12:13,297 And then the "womens," they said, "What we do? 240 00:12:13,340 --> 00:12:16,126 We go, or we stay in our land?" 241 00:12:16,169 --> 00:12:18,563 We grew coffee. 242 00:12:19,956 --> 00:12:22,828 And this kind of coffee is very interesting 243 00:12:22,872 --> 00:12:24,787 because we have, like, a lot of flowers 244 00:12:24,830 --> 00:12:26,353 that we're going to cook today. 245 00:12:26,397 --> 00:12:28,138 - Oh, we can eat the flowers? - Yes. 246 00:12:28,181 --> 00:12:29,966 - Oh. Okay. 247 00:12:30,009 --> 00:12:32,620 - These are the flowers of San Lorenzo. 248 00:12:32,664 --> 00:12:35,362 - Oh, San Lorenzo. - So maybe you can cut. 249 00:12:35,406 --> 00:12:36,799 - Okay. Oh, Lord. 250 00:12:36,842 --> 00:12:38,365 Okay, I hate when it's, like-- 251 00:12:38,409 --> 00:12:41,847 the high pressure of, like, there's one plant that grows. 252 00:12:41,891 --> 00:12:44,328 How long does it take to grow? - Like, one year. 253 00:12:44,371 --> 00:12:45,633 - Oh, just a year. 254 00:12:45,677 --> 00:12:47,461 Okay. Down here? 255 00:12:47,505 --> 00:12:49,028 - Yes, yes. - Okay. 256 00:12:49,072 --> 00:12:50,551 - Perfect. 257 00:12:50,595 --> 00:12:52,118 - But the coffee isn't the only thing 258 00:12:52,162 --> 00:12:54,251 full of flavor around here. 259 00:12:54,294 --> 00:12:58,516 Apparently these shade-grown flowers are also delicious. 260 00:12:58,559 --> 00:13:00,300 And we're going to cook them in a stew. 261 00:13:00,344 --> 00:13:02,868 [sizzling] 262 00:13:14,532 --> 00:13:17,056 Yeah? - Sí, sí. 263 00:13:17,100 --> 00:13:21,191 - It might not seem an obvious combination... 264 00:13:21,234 --> 00:13:23,541 but as well as being packed with vitamins, 265 00:13:23,584 --> 00:13:26,239 the sweetness of these izote petals 266 00:13:26,283 --> 00:13:27,632 enhances the flavor 267 00:13:27,675 --> 00:13:29,721 of the tomato, onion, and garlic broth. 268 00:13:31,766 --> 00:13:34,465 And dough balls help thicken the stew. 269 00:13:41,254 --> 00:13:43,996 Oh, that's beautiful. 270 00:13:44,040 --> 00:13:46,825 The tesmole will be served alongside a salsa 271 00:13:46,869 --> 00:13:49,697 made with the San Lorenzo flower I picked... 272 00:13:51,351 --> 00:13:54,485 And some palm flowers dipped in a light batter and fried 273 00:13:54,528 --> 00:13:56,226 till crisp. 274 00:13:56,269 --> 00:13:58,184 Okay. - Okay, vamos. 275 00:13:58,228 --> 00:13:59,620 - Vamos. 276 00:14:04,930 --> 00:14:07,541 - Oh, my God, look at these little petals. 277 00:14:09,935 --> 00:14:10,980 Ooh! 278 00:14:13,852 --> 00:14:16,507 You can feel the fragrance from the petals. 279 00:14:16,550 --> 00:14:17,682 - Yes. 280 00:14:25,255 --> 00:14:26,604 - Mm. 281 00:14:36,135 --> 00:14:37,615 I love that. 282 00:14:39,356 --> 00:14:40,835 Mmm! 283 00:14:40,879 --> 00:14:42,968 To me, the palm-flower fritter 284 00:14:43,012 --> 00:14:45,318 has a sweet and sour zucchini taste. 285 00:14:45,362 --> 00:14:47,190 Amazing texture. 286 00:14:47,233 --> 00:14:49,453 Oh, I love this texture. 287 00:14:49,496 --> 00:14:51,020 The women of Coetzala 288 00:14:51,063 --> 00:14:52,978 may have been left to fight for survival, 289 00:14:53,022 --> 00:14:55,024 but I think their resourcefulness 290 00:14:55,067 --> 00:14:57,765 has not only led to a wonderful way of cooking, 291 00:14:57,809 --> 00:15:02,466 but it's also given them strength and stature, 292 00:15:02,509 --> 00:15:05,773 just like the flowers of the coffee fields. 293 00:15:05,817 --> 00:15:08,515 Oh, my gosh, this is so good. 294 00:15:15,348 --> 00:15:19,526 [church bells tolling tune of "La Bamba"] 295 00:15:22,834 --> 00:15:27,143 - ♪ Bamba, bamba ♪ 296 00:15:27,186 --> 00:15:29,928 I love that the church bells is "La Bamba." 297 00:15:31,930 --> 00:15:33,410 I grew up listening to "La Bamba," 298 00:15:33,453 --> 00:15:36,500 but I had no idea the roots of this folk song 299 00:15:36,543 --> 00:15:38,589 go back to the 18th century 300 00:15:38,632 --> 00:15:41,505 and the quarter of a million enslaved Africans 301 00:15:41,548 --> 00:15:43,333 who were brought to Veracruz. 302 00:15:43,376 --> 00:15:45,900 These African cultural influences, 303 00:15:45,944 --> 00:15:48,512 surviving two centuries of the slave trade, 304 00:15:48,555 --> 00:15:51,428 blended with those of the Indigenous people, 305 00:15:51,471 --> 00:15:52,777 as well as the Spanish, 306 00:15:52,820 --> 00:15:55,040 like my ancestor Lorenzo Longoria, 307 00:15:55,084 --> 00:15:57,303 and today neighborhoods around the port 308 00:15:57,347 --> 00:16:00,002 reflect this unique mix of cultures. 309 00:16:00,045 --> 00:16:01,699 Hola. - Hola, Eva. 310 00:16:01,742 --> 00:16:04,354 - Mucho gusto. - Qué gusto. 311 00:16:04,397 --> 00:16:07,009 - Welcome to Veracruz. - Muchas gracias. 312 00:16:07,052 --> 00:16:08,836 I'm meeting with food historian 313 00:16:08,880 --> 00:16:10,708 Nidia Hernández Medel. 314 00:16:10,751 --> 00:16:12,536 She's written a book on local cuisine 315 00:16:12,579 --> 00:16:15,017 and is my guide to La Huaca. 316 00:17:03,326 --> 00:17:06,242 - It's impossible to overstate the impact of African culture 317 00:17:06,285 --> 00:17:07,678 on this region. 318 00:17:07,721 --> 00:17:09,767 But even at the peak of the slave trade, 319 00:17:09,810 --> 00:17:11,551 there was resistance. 320 00:17:11,595 --> 00:17:16,513 In 1631, a group of rebel slaves led by Gaspar Yanga, 321 00:17:16,556 --> 00:17:20,343 won the right to live as free people in their own region. 322 00:17:22,258 --> 00:17:24,956 It was a small but significant victory, 323 00:17:24,999 --> 00:17:27,698 given it would take another two centuries 324 00:17:27,741 --> 00:17:30,048 before slavery ended in Mexico. 325 00:17:40,450 --> 00:17:41,364 Sí. 326 00:17:54,159 --> 00:17:55,204 Sí. 327 00:18:02,298 --> 00:18:06,432 ♪ ♪ 328 00:18:06,476 --> 00:18:07,433 Wow. 329 00:18:10,871 --> 00:18:12,134 Yuca frita. 330 00:18:14,310 --> 00:18:15,180 Okay. 331 00:18:25,408 --> 00:18:27,149 So they're both roots. 332 00:18:28,367 --> 00:18:29,412 - Así es. 333 00:18:31,109 --> 00:18:33,546 - Africans missed the yams of their homeland 334 00:18:33,590 --> 00:18:38,421 but discovered the similar Latin American yuca. 335 00:18:38,464 --> 00:18:41,337 Ever since, it's been used for popular dishes 336 00:18:41,380 --> 00:18:44,166 like crispy fried yuca with garlic. 337 00:18:50,476 --> 00:18:52,435 - ¿Sí? Qué bueno. - Sí. 338 00:18:56,395 --> 00:18:58,615 ¿Sí? 339 00:18:58,658 --> 00:19:01,792 Mama Yuca? [laughs] 340 00:19:03,881 --> 00:19:06,231 - [laughs] 341 00:19:06,275 --> 00:19:07,841 ¿Sí? - Sí. 342 00:19:10,583 --> 00:19:12,411 Of course, it goes without saying 343 00:19:12,455 --> 00:19:15,327 that plantain fritters are also on the menu. 344 00:19:20,811 --> 00:19:22,595 Introduced by the Spanish, 345 00:19:22,639 --> 00:19:26,077 the trees provided shade for valuable crops like coffee. 346 00:19:26,120 --> 00:19:30,255 The leftover fruit was used to feed enslaved communities. 347 00:19:34,564 --> 00:19:36,087 We smash them, 348 00:19:36,130 --> 00:19:38,220 and then we're going to put them back in the oil. 349 00:19:38,263 --> 00:19:41,310 Okay. Back in the pan they go. 350 00:19:51,407 --> 00:19:54,061 They're like potato chips. You can't eat just one. 351 00:19:56,281 --> 00:19:58,327 Mmm. Wow. 352 00:20:19,391 --> 00:20:20,305 Mm-hmm. 353 00:20:28,618 --> 00:20:30,315 [chuckles] 354 00:20:30,359 --> 00:20:31,621 Sí. 355 00:20:31,664 --> 00:20:33,492 Oh, muchas gracias. 356 00:20:37,670 --> 00:20:40,020 - Aquí está. Whoa. 357 00:20:40,064 --> 00:20:41,848 - Te ayudo. - Vamos. 358 00:20:41,892 --> 00:20:44,808 ♪ ♪ 359 00:20:44,851 --> 00:20:48,159 - [singing in Spanish] 360 00:20:48,202 --> 00:20:49,203 - Wow! 361 00:20:51,031 --> 00:20:54,513 ♪ ♪ 362 00:20:54,557 --> 00:20:55,993 This blend of African, 363 00:20:56,036 --> 00:20:58,300 Indigenous, and Spanish influences 364 00:20:58,343 --> 00:21:00,389 extends from Veracruzanos' cooking 365 00:21:00,432 --> 00:21:04,480 to the music of the fandango... 366 00:21:04,523 --> 00:21:08,092 which originally was a form of protest music. 367 00:21:09,441 --> 00:21:12,618 And I find the passion and rebellion it conveys 368 00:21:12,662 --> 00:21:14,881 contagious. 369 00:21:14,925 --> 00:21:16,230 But let's face it. 370 00:21:16,274 --> 00:21:18,145 I'm not one to stand by and watch. 371 00:21:18,189 --> 00:21:21,366 - [singing in Spanish] 372 00:21:21,410 --> 00:21:25,675 - This seductively feisty culture shouts resistance... 373 00:21:25,718 --> 00:21:28,678 ♪ ♪ 374 00:21:28,721 --> 00:21:30,027 The Veracruzano way. 375 00:21:30,070 --> 00:21:33,813 ♪ ♪ 376 00:21:33,857 --> 00:21:38,122 - Vamos. [cheers and applause] 377 00:21:38,165 --> 00:21:40,864 - Muchas gracias! 378 00:21:48,480 --> 00:21:51,483 - So I've traveled north from the Port of Veracruz 379 00:21:51,527 --> 00:21:55,966 to the region where vanilla originates. 380 00:21:56,009 --> 00:21:58,795 This is where the plant is from. 381 00:21:58,838 --> 00:22:00,231 I'm so excited. 382 00:22:00,274 --> 00:22:02,320 I'm probably the biggest fan of vanilla. 383 00:22:02,364 --> 00:22:06,150 I've been looking forward to this moment for a long time. 384 00:22:06,193 --> 00:22:08,805 They say good things come to those who wait, 385 00:22:08,848 --> 00:22:11,416 and the prized vanilla bean from Veracruz 386 00:22:11,460 --> 00:22:14,506 is definitely one of those things. 387 00:22:14,550 --> 00:22:16,203 [gasps] 388 00:22:16,247 --> 00:22:18,205 I don't think I've ever seen so many vanilla beans 389 00:22:18,249 --> 00:22:19,990 in one place. - Yeah. 390 00:22:20,033 --> 00:22:22,340 Yeah, it's from Mexico-- the best aroma. 391 00:22:22,384 --> 00:22:24,429 - I've been invited here by Norma Gaya, 392 00:22:24,473 --> 00:22:26,779 from Mexico's oldest vanilla family, 393 00:22:26,823 --> 00:22:29,739 who have been harvesting it for hundreds of years. 394 00:22:29,782 --> 00:22:31,393 And she is the first woman 395 00:22:31,436 --> 00:22:33,220 to take charge of the business. 396 00:22:33,264 --> 00:22:36,920 So, if vanilla is endemic to Mexico, 397 00:22:36,963 --> 00:22:38,704 is Mexico the number-one producer? 398 00:22:38,748 --> 00:22:40,358 - No. 399 00:22:40,402 --> 00:22:42,229 - Turns out that Madagascar produces about 80% 400 00:22:42,273 --> 00:22:43,753 of the world's vanilla. 401 00:22:43,796 --> 00:22:45,102 But guess what. 402 00:22:45,145 --> 00:22:47,234 It was Veracruz that gave it to them. 403 00:22:47,278 --> 00:22:50,150 - It's more expensive than in Madagascar. 404 00:22:50,194 --> 00:22:52,718 - 'Cause it's the best? - Yeah, it's the best. 405 00:22:52,762 --> 00:22:54,328 Of course it's the best. 406 00:22:54,372 --> 00:22:58,158 And now here, you can see how they are taking care 407 00:22:58,202 --> 00:23:00,334 of each vanilla beans. 408 00:23:00,378 --> 00:23:01,510 - To cut each vanilla bean. 409 00:23:01,553 --> 00:23:03,729 - Each vanilla bean, just to be sure. 410 00:23:07,472 --> 00:23:10,780 - It can get infected with something? 411 00:23:10,823 --> 00:23:13,913 So she has to cut the tip off. - Exactamente. 412 00:23:13,957 --> 00:23:15,219 - Wow. 413 00:23:15,262 --> 00:23:17,743 Very labor intensive. 414 00:23:17,787 --> 00:23:20,790 And that's just the tip of the vanilla bean. 415 00:23:20,833 --> 00:23:22,748 Wait till you hear what it takes to create it 416 00:23:22,792 --> 00:23:24,228 in the first place. 417 00:23:24,271 --> 00:23:27,231 [jazz music] 418 00:23:27,274 --> 00:23:29,407 ♪ ♪ 419 00:23:29,451 --> 00:23:30,887 - This is the vanilla plantation. 420 00:23:30,930 --> 00:23:32,323 - Is it just this one? 421 00:23:32,366 --> 00:23:34,281 Native to the north of Veracruz, 422 00:23:34,325 --> 00:23:35,631 the vanilla plant 423 00:23:35,674 --> 00:23:37,981 was originally only pollinated by bees, 424 00:23:38,024 --> 00:23:39,330 until it was discovered 425 00:23:39,373 --> 00:23:41,332 that you could do the same job by hand. 426 00:23:41,375 --> 00:23:44,596 I never knew they were vines. - Yes. 427 00:23:44,640 --> 00:23:47,033 - I don't know why I thought it was like a bush or a plant, 428 00:23:47,077 --> 00:23:48,382 like a... 429 00:23:48,426 --> 00:23:50,472 Vanilla comes from the seed pods 430 00:23:50,515 --> 00:23:52,604 of a hermaphrodite orchid. 431 00:23:52,648 --> 00:23:54,606 The flower has to be pollinated 432 00:23:54,650 --> 00:23:58,871 in a single window of a few hours, or it will die. 433 00:23:58,915 --> 00:24:01,570 Now get ready for a bit of biology. 434 00:24:01,613 --> 00:24:03,789 - The vanilla plant is like a woman. 435 00:24:03,833 --> 00:24:05,008 - Okay. 436 00:24:05,051 --> 00:24:07,837 - So, if you want to pollinate, 437 00:24:07,880 --> 00:24:09,752 you need to speak very lovely. 438 00:24:09,795 --> 00:24:11,101 - [laughs] 439 00:24:11,144 --> 00:24:12,624 - And then open it. - Uh-huh. 440 00:24:12,668 --> 00:24:16,498 - And you are going to take out the pollen from the male 441 00:24:16,541 --> 00:24:19,979 and put it inside of the female organ. 442 00:24:20,023 --> 00:24:21,938 - So we're impregnating... - Yes. 443 00:24:21,981 --> 00:24:23,287 - The woman. 444 00:24:23,330 --> 00:24:24,897 - And then you need to wait nine months 445 00:24:24,941 --> 00:24:26,508 in order to make the crop. 446 00:24:26,551 --> 00:24:28,292 - Like a baby. - Yes. 447 00:24:28,335 --> 00:24:31,208 And then you need to do it. - Oh, gosh, no. 448 00:24:31,251 --> 00:24:33,340 Okay, what happened-- Oh, Lord. Okay. 449 00:24:33,384 --> 00:24:34,603 - Here. - Uh-huh. 450 00:24:34,646 --> 00:24:36,430 - You see? You need to open. 451 00:24:36,474 --> 00:24:39,129 - I open this part right here? - Yeah. 452 00:24:39,172 --> 00:24:41,435 - God, I need glasses. - [chuckles] 453 00:24:41,479 --> 00:24:42,567 Yeah. 454 00:24:42,611 --> 00:24:44,351 - [softly] Oh, God, I am not breathing. 455 00:24:44,395 --> 00:24:45,962 [normal voice] And that's the male right there? 456 00:24:46,005 --> 00:24:48,051 - Yeah. So you need to open it. 457 00:24:48,094 --> 00:24:50,183 - Okay. [laughs] 458 00:24:50,227 --> 00:24:52,229 I don't want to [bleep] up the vanilla bean. 459 00:24:52,272 --> 00:24:53,578 Okay, okay. 460 00:24:53,622 --> 00:24:55,711 Okay, here we go. 461 00:24:55,754 --> 00:24:57,321 So I'm-- - Yeah. Yes. 462 00:24:57,364 --> 00:25:00,542 There is the pollen. Then pull it down and push it. 463 00:25:00,585 --> 00:25:02,674 - Is that it? - Yeah. 464 00:25:02,718 --> 00:25:05,198 - Did I make vanilla baby? - Yes. 465 00:25:07,331 --> 00:25:09,551 - Feel like we need a glass of wine. 466 00:25:09,594 --> 00:25:12,466 [laughing] - Yeah. 467 00:25:12,510 --> 00:25:14,207 - Yay! We did it. 468 00:25:14,251 --> 00:25:15,905 - So the people now need to do it, 469 00:25:15,948 --> 00:25:19,299 like, 5,000 per day, something like that, for one month. 470 00:25:19,343 --> 00:25:20,866 - That's so stressful. 471 00:25:20,910 --> 00:25:22,476 You have to do that with all of these flowers? 472 00:25:22,520 --> 00:25:25,001 - Yeah. - That's amazing. 473 00:25:25,044 --> 00:25:26,829 I'm happy I'm only doing one. 474 00:25:26,872 --> 00:25:29,701 This painstaking process makes vanilla 475 00:25:29,745 --> 00:25:32,356 one of the most expensive spices in the world, 476 00:25:32,399 --> 00:25:35,925 worth nearly its weight in gold. 477 00:25:35,968 --> 00:25:38,275 - This is the family house. 478 00:25:38,318 --> 00:25:42,758 - Oh, this is so beautiful. 479 00:25:42,801 --> 00:25:45,238 - We are going to cook chicken with vanilla. 480 00:25:45,282 --> 00:25:46,457 - Oh, my gosh. 481 00:25:46,500 --> 00:25:48,285 - Is very typical dishes in the family. 482 00:25:48,328 --> 00:25:49,678 - And here it is. Here's the bean. 483 00:25:49,721 --> 00:25:52,071 - Yes. Yes. - And what is this? 484 00:25:52,115 --> 00:25:53,551 - Natas. 485 00:25:53,595 --> 00:25:55,205 - Nata is the thick, butter-like cream 486 00:25:55,248 --> 00:25:58,600 that forms on the top of milk after it's been boiled. 487 00:25:58,643 --> 00:26:01,603 - Here, yes, it's a typical ingredient. 488 00:26:01,646 --> 00:26:03,474 - And do we put the vanilla in here? 489 00:26:03,517 --> 00:26:06,303 - Yes. - Now we're talking. 490 00:26:06,346 --> 00:26:11,003 It's like gold. This is like-- - Yeah, it's a black gold. 491 00:26:11,047 --> 00:26:13,049 - Mmm. That's amazing. 492 00:26:13,092 --> 00:26:15,399 I put it in here? - Yes. 493 00:26:15,442 --> 00:26:18,750 - It's so vibrant-- just that small amount. 494 00:26:18,794 --> 00:26:20,099 And vanilla extract? - Some vanilla extract. 495 00:26:20,143 --> 00:26:21,884 - Uh-huh. 496 00:26:21,927 --> 00:26:23,886 And this is your vanilla extract from the vanilla bean. 497 00:26:23,929 --> 00:26:26,279 - Yes. Yes. - Yes. 498 00:26:26,323 --> 00:26:29,979 - Now we add braised onions to this hot, creamy mixture. 499 00:26:30,022 --> 00:26:32,242 Wow. - Ready. 500 00:26:32,285 --> 00:26:34,461 - Okay. Now we go to blend it? 501 00:26:34,505 --> 00:26:36,072 - Yeah. [blender whirring] 502 00:26:36,115 --> 00:26:38,248 - Because this is going to be the sauce of the chicken? 503 00:26:38,291 --> 00:26:39,684 - Yes. 504 00:26:39,728 --> 00:26:41,599 - Flavoring savory dishes with vanilla 505 00:26:41,643 --> 00:26:43,514 is a thing around here. 506 00:26:43,557 --> 00:26:45,995 I've never had chicken with vanilla. 507 00:26:46,038 --> 00:26:49,520 Inspired by Norma's great-grandfather's recipe, 508 00:26:49,563 --> 00:26:51,391 the sauce is added to chicken pieces 509 00:26:51,435 --> 00:26:53,393 gently sauteed in butter. 510 00:26:55,004 --> 00:26:58,877 So what was it like growing up in a vanilla family? 511 00:27:11,063 --> 00:27:14,371 Of the process, of jobs... 512 00:27:14,414 --> 00:27:16,286 - Do you have brothers? - Yeah. 513 00:27:16,329 --> 00:27:18,331 - But they're not in the business? 514 00:27:28,864 --> 00:27:30,996 - Because you're a woman? - Yeah, I'm a woman. 515 00:27:31,040 --> 00:27:32,302 Uh-huh. 516 00:27:37,133 --> 00:27:39,744 - "I will." [laughs] 517 00:27:39,788 --> 00:27:43,139 [gasps] - Eva, the plate is ready. 518 00:27:43,182 --> 00:27:45,924 - Now that all the flavors have had a chance to marry, 519 00:27:45,968 --> 00:27:48,710 tiny pieces of vanilla are sprinkled on top. 520 00:27:48,753 --> 00:27:50,320 It's like caviar. 521 00:27:50,363 --> 00:27:52,148 You got to be very sparing with it. 522 00:27:52,191 --> 00:27:54,019 How's that? - Great. 523 00:27:54,063 --> 00:27:56,500 - We even add vanilla to the salad dressing 524 00:27:56,543 --> 00:28:00,417 to enhance the flavors of mango and feta. 525 00:28:00,460 --> 00:28:03,376 Mmm. Oh, that's refreshing. 526 00:28:03,420 --> 00:28:04,943 All right. Et voilà. 527 00:28:04,987 --> 00:28:06,336 Hola. 528 00:28:06,379 --> 00:28:08,425 - This is my son and my father. 529 00:28:08,468 --> 00:28:10,819 - Hola, señor. Un placer. 530 00:28:26,138 --> 00:28:27,574 Mm. 531 00:28:30,273 --> 00:28:31,535 Mm-hmm. 532 00:28:34,930 --> 00:28:36,018 Mm-hmm. 533 00:28:38,411 --> 00:28:43,025 Okay, let me try this dish that I've never had before. 534 00:28:44,287 --> 00:28:46,332 - It's good. - Oh, my God. 535 00:28:46,376 --> 00:28:48,857 Mmm. 536 00:28:48,900 --> 00:28:51,947 Everybody has to eat this when we're done. 537 00:28:51,990 --> 00:28:56,255 The finale to this incredible day is dessert. 538 00:28:56,299 --> 00:28:59,258 Bananas doused in the homemade vanilla liqueur-- 539 00:28:59,302 --> 00:29:02,305 another recipe from Norma's great-grandfather. 540 00:29:02,348 --> 00:29:04,350 Oh, this looks beautiful. Gracias. 541 00:29:04,394 --> 00:29:07,963 Oh, look at this vanilla bean ice cream. 542 00:29:08,006 --> 00:29:09,486 Just melting. 543 00:29:09,529 --> 00:29:11,531 Wow. Thank you so much for today. 544 00:29:11,575 --> 00:29:12,968 What an experience. - Thank you. 545 00:29:13,011 --> 00:29:14,056 - I was so excited. 546 00:29:14,099 --> 00:29:15,579 I've been such a fan of vanilla, 547 00:29:15,622 --> 00:29:17,233 and now I know everything about it. 548 00:29:17,276 --> 00:29:19,757 And I've impregnated a vanilla bean, so... 549 00:29:19,801 --> 00:29:21,019 - Yeah. - [chuckles] 550 00:29:21,063 --> 00:29:25,371 - I'm a proud parent. [laughter] 551 00:29:33,510 --> 00:29:35,773 [dramatic music] 552 00:29:35,817 --> 00:29:38,036 - So this is El Tajín. 553 00:29:38,080 --> 00:29:42,345 This place was inhabited by the Totonac civilization, 554 00:29:42,388 --> 00:29:43,737 and they were very prosperous. 555 00:29:43,781 --> 00:29:45,174 You can tell just by these ruins. 556 00:29:45,217 --> 00:29:47,480 There's many buildings dedicated 557 00:29:47,524 --> 00:29:49,221 to ceremonies and rituals. 558 00:29:49,265 --> 00:29:52,616 It extends forever. 559 00:29:52,659 --> 00:29:55,097 Over 1,000 years ago, 560 00:29:55,140 --> 00:29:57,316 way before any Spanish arrived, 561 00:29:57,360 --> 00:30:00,667 two civilizations vied for supremacy in Veracruz-- 562 00:30:00,711 --> 00:30:03,845 the Aztecs and the Totonacs. 563 00:30:03,888 --> 00:30:05,629 And up here in the north, 564 00:30:05,672 --> 00:30:08,414 it was the Totonacs that prevailed. 565 00:30:08,458 --> 00:30:10,068 Set between two large streams 566 00:30:10,112 --> 00:30:12,636 that flow to the Tecolutla River, 567 00:30:12,679 --> 00:30:15,508 El Tajín was perfectly shielded from attack 568 00:30:15,552 --> 00:30:17,423 and is one of the best-preserved 569 00:30:17,467 --> 00:30:19,904 pre-Hispanic cities in Mexico. 570 00:30:19,948 --> 00:30:23,212 This strategic advantage was key to the survival 571 00:30:23,255 --> 00:30:24,778 of the Totonac people. 572 00:30:24,822 --> 00:30:28,260 And this particular culture is still practicing 573 00:30:28,304 --> 00:30:30,610 their rituals and ceremonies today. 574 00:30:30,654 --> 00:30:33,439 [soft music] 575 00:30:33,483 --> 00:30:38,575 ♪ ♪ 576 00:30:38,618 --> 00:30:40,403 Hola. - Buenas tardes. 577 00:30:40,446 --> 00:30:42,927 - ¿Cómo están? Buenas tardes. - Buenas tardes. 578 00:30:42,971 --> 00:30:46,104 - My host, doña Marta, founded Smoke Women, 579 00:30:46,148 --> 00:30:49,064 a group that keeps ancient Totonac traditions alive 580 00:30:49,107 --> 00:30:51,762 while also supporting local women. 581 00:30:57,072 --> 00:30:58,073 Okay. 582 00:31:04,601 --> 00:31:08,039 Smoke has always been integral to Totonac culture. 583 00:31:08,083 --> 00:31:11,869 It's used in preserving food and also in cooking rituals. 584 00:31:19,877 --> 00:31:22,140 A shot of moonshine keeps the Devil away. 585 00:31:29,060 --> 00:31:30,496 Okay. 586 00:31:41,246 --> 00:31:42,769 Okay. 587 00:31:42,813 --> 00:31:44,684 El Tajín's position between two rivers 588 00:31:44,728 --> 00:31:46,469 didn't just provide protection. 589 00:31:46,512 --> 00:31:49,124 It was also a source of food for the local community, 590 00:31:49,167 --> 00:31:52,779 like these freshwater shrimps, or acamayas, 591 00:31:52,823 --> 00:31:54,825 which we're going to cook. 592 00:31:58,307 --> 00:31:59,482 - Sí. 593 00:32:02,441 --> 00:32:05,401 - [laughing] 594 00:32:05,444 --> 00:32:06,706 Just so y'all know. 595 00:32:06,750 --> 00:32:09,144 You know, nature doesn't lie. 596 00:32:09,187 --> 00:32:10,884 [chuckles] 597 00:32:10,928 --> 00:32:14,497 They are the star ingredient of a traditional Totonac stew 598 00:32:14,540 --> 00:32:16,238 called huatape. 599 00:32:20,503 --> 00:32:21,678 Mm-hmm. 600 00:32:28,032 --> 00:32:30,034 - Sí. - Sí.[laughs] 601 00:32:33,864 --> 00:32:36,171 Chile piquín. He grows these. 602 00:32:42,960 --> 00:32:43,874 Uh-huh. 603 00:32:52,143 --> 00:32:53,666 Okay. 604 00:32:57,235 --> 00:32:59,585 Everything we're using in these recipes 605 00:32:59,629 --> 00:33:02,023 is foraged from the local area, 606 00:33:02,066 --> 00:33:04,373 like these chaga mushrooms, 607 00:33:04,416 --> 00:33:06,984 which are crushed to make the filling for the empanadas. 608 00:33:47,068 --> 00:33:48,634 - Sí... 609 00:33:53,509 --> 00:33:55,685 Sí. 610 00:33:55,728 --> 00:33:57,556 Y las vamos a... 611 00:33:57,600 --> 00:33:59,645 - These look amazing. 612 00:34:02,083 --> 00:34:05,129 Wow. So beautiful. 613 00:34:05,173 --> 00:34:07,175 A few minutes on the heat... 614 00:34:08,828 --> 00:34:11,701 And our Totonac feast is ready. 615 00:34:14,225 --> 00:34:18,534 ♪ ♪ 616 00:34:18,577 --> 00:34:19,839 Mmm. 617 00:34:24,583 --> 00:34:26,063 Okay. 618 00:34:26,107 --> 00:34:27,456 Okay. 619 00:34:27,499 --> 00:34:29,197 She sucked the head. 620 00:34:33,244 --> 00:34:37,030 Okay, let's have this mushroom empanada. 621 00:34:38,815 --> 00:34:40,860 [crunches] 622 00:34:40,904 --> 00:34:42,297 Mmm. Crispy. 623 00:34:42,340 --> 00:34:43,559 Oh! 624 00:34:43,602 --> 00:34:45,169 And a little spicy. 625 00:34:45,213 --> 00:34:46,866 It tastes very... 626 00:34:48,390 --> 00:34:49,347 both: Mm-hmm. 627 00:34:49,391 --> 00:34:50,957 Smoke preserves, 628 00:34:51,001 --> 00:34:55,397 but it can also change to fit the shape of the space. 629 00:34:55,440 --> 00:34:57,660 And from what I've seen, the Totonacs 630 00:34:57,703 --> 00:34:59,923 also know how to adapt. 631 00:34:59,966 --> 00:35:02,969 Maybe it's that attitude and resilience 632 00:35:03,013 --> 00:35:05,711 that's the secret to doña Marta's success. 633 00:35:18,420 --> 00:35:19,856 Gracias. 634 00:35:19,899 --> 00:35:22,685 [laughs] Muchas gracias. 635 00:35:29,648 --> 00:35:31,868 [upbeat music] 636 00:35:31,911 --> 00:35:34,262 - Hola! - Welcome, Eva. 637 00:35:38,962 --> 00:35:40,442 - Gracias. 638 00:35:40,485 --> 00:35:41,530 - Are you hungry? - Yeah. 639 00:35:41,573 --> 00:35:42,748 - Want to join me? - Yes. 640 00:35:42,792 --> 00:35:44,185 I'm always hungry. 641 00:35:44,228 --> 00:35:46,796 I'm so excited to meet Luis Palmeros, 642 00:35:46,839 --> 00:35:49,277 ranked one of Mexico's best new chefs. 643 00:35:49,320 --> 00:35:51,540 But before I get to see him in action, 644 00:35:51,583 --> 00:35:53,977 there's someone special he wants me to meet. 645 00:35:54,020 --> 00:35:55,457 - I'm going to introduce you 646 00:35:55,500 --> 00:35:58,024 one of the most important traditional cooks here. 647 00:35:58,068 --> 00:36:00,113 It's doña Rocío. - Okay. 648 00:36:00,157 --> 00:36:03,291 - It's amazing person and amazing cook. 649 00:36:03,334 --> 00:36:06,207 - Luis wants me to try doña Rocío's specialty, 650 00:36:06,250 --> 00:36:08,121 a stuffed jalapeño. 651 00:36:08,165 --> 00:36:10,211 Hola! - Hola, hola. 652 00:36:10,254 --> 00:36:12,735 - Let me introduce-- - Soy Eva. Mucho gusto. 653 00:36:12,778 --> 00:36:14,215 - She teach me how to cook the chili. 654 00:36:14,258 --> 00:36:15,216 - Oh, my God. 655 00:36:15,259 --> 00:36:17,043 So is this where it all started? 656 00:36:17,087 --> 00:36:18,523 [laughs] - Yeah. 657 00:36:18,567 --> 00:36:19,829 We're going to try 658 00:36:19,872 --> 00:36:21,396 a traditional version of the chili. 659 00:36:21,439 --> 00:36:23,093 It's a mixture between two cultures. 660 00:36:23,136 --> 00:36:25,313 It's the Mexican one and the Spanish. 661 00:36:27,445 --> 00:36:29,578 - [gasps] 662 00:36:29,621 --> 00:36:32,624 Yet another of Veracruz's culinary gifts to the world-- 663 00:36:32,668 --> 00:36:34,191 the famous jalapeño 664 00:36:34,235 --> 00:36:36,889 originated right here in Xalapa. 665 00:36:38,108 --> 00:36:40,371 Around 60 miles inland from the port, 666 00:36:40,415 --> 00:36:44,723 the capital city is nestled in lush, fertile landscape. 667 00:36:44,767 --> 00:36:47,160 ♪ ♪ 668 00:36:47,204 --> 00:36:49,772 Jalapeño peppers have been cultivated here 669 00:36:49,815 --> 00:36:52,296 since the time of the Aztecs. 670 00:36:53,819 --> 00:36:55,604 - You should-- - Just dig in, okay. 671 00:36:55,647 --> 00:36:56,953 - Yeah, you should-- 672 00:36:56,996 --> 00:36:58,346 - You dig in. - Just dig in. 673 00:36:58,389 --> 00:37:01,174 - And so what's inside of it? What's the filling? 674 00:37:01,218 --> 00:37:04,569 - Its main ingredients-- it's tomato, it's raisins. 675 00:37:04,613 --> 00:37:06,745 - Mmm. 676 00:37:06,789 --> 00:37:09,792 - Yeah, of course. 677 00:37:09,835 --> 00:37:11,272 - Oh, my God. 678 00:37:23,936 --> 00:37:25,286 - I know this is beautiful 679 00:37:25,329 --> 00:37:26,765 because it's the traditional way. 680 00:37:26,809 --> 00:37:28,201 - Yeah. 681 00:37:28,245 --> 00:37:30,116 - But I'm going to introduce you my version. 682 00:37:30,160 --> 00:37:31,814 - Well, I don't know if you can top doña Rocío's. 683 00:37:31,857 --> 00:37:33,294 I don't know. - No. 684 00:37:33,337 --> 00:37:34,904 [laughs] 685 00:37:38,560 --> 00:37:41,519 - To create a modern version of chile en caldillo, 686 00:37:41,563 --> 00:37:43,565 we need a suitably modern space. 687 00:37:48,047 --> 00:37:50,615 The vibe is stripped back and simple. 688 00:37:50,659 --> 00:37:53,270 I suspect the food will be anything but. 689 00:37:56,926 --> 00:37:58,231 [gasps] 690 00:38:06,544 --> 00:38:08,198 - And this is what's going to go inside the chili. 691 00:38:08,241 --> 00:38:10,287 - Sí. Inside the chili. 692 00:38:10,331 --> 00:38:12,202 - In his cooking, Luis celebrates 693 00:38:12,245 --> 00:38:16,162 different culinary influences, like fried African plantain. 694 00:38:18,774 --> 00:38:20,253 Raisin. - Raisins, yes. 695 00:38:20,297 --> 00:38:21,820 - That's very Spanish. 696 00:38:21,864 --> 00:38:23,344 And he combines these 697 00:38:23,387 --> 00:38:25,171 with capers and herbs for the fillings. 698 00:38:44,974 --> 00:38:46,628 Oh. - And I'm going to... 699 00:38:46,671 --> 00:38:49,544 - And it catches on fire! - Yeah, of course. 700 00:38:52,895 --> 00:38:54,592 - Mmm. 701 00:38:54,636 --> 00:38:57,029 You can smell that alcohol mixed with the plantain. 702 00:38:57,073 --> 00:38:58,291 - With the plantains-- 703 00:38:58,335 --> 00:38:59,728 - I mean, it makes the plantains... 704 00:38:59,771 --> 00:39:00,903 - The smell... - Explode. 705 00:39:00,946 --> 00:39:02,470 Yeah. - You know, exploded, yeah. 706 00:39:09,433 --> 00:39:11,522 - As a tribute to Totonac tradition, 707 00:39:11,566 --> 00:39:15,221 Luis smokes the filling for 12 to 16 hours. 708 00:39:15,265 --> 00:39:17,223 Thank God he's got one ready. 709 00:39:20,270 --> 00:39:22,272 It smells amazing. - Sí. No. 710 00:39:22,315 --> 00:39:24,274 - You can smell every single spice. 711 00:39:24,317 --> 00:39:26,537 Like, there's not one that overpowers the other. 712 00:39:31,803 --> 00:39:33,414 - Está listo. 713 00:39:44,555 --> 00:39:45,426 - Okay. 714 00:39:56,915 --> 00:39:58,351 Oh, my God. 715 00:39:58,395 --> 00:40:01,050 Guys, I don't want to brag, but mine is perfect. 716 00:40:01,093 --> 00:40:03,226 [chuckles] 717 00:40:08,449 --> 00:40:10,015 Yeah, yeah. 718 00:40:23,072 --> 00:40:24,726 God, look at that! 719 00:40:29,208 --> 00:40:31,515 It's like the Mexican flag. 720 00:40:31,559 --> 00:40:33,517 [chuckles] 721 00:40:33,561 --> 00:40:35,040 Sí. 722 00:40:45,050 --> 00:40:46,965 That's so beautiful! I need my phone! 723 00:40:47,009 --> 00:40:49,402 [laughter] 724 00:40:49,446 --> 00:40:50,360 Thank you. 725 00:40:50,403 --> 00:40:51,970 But it's not just the food. 726 00:40:52,014 --> 00:40:55,191 At this restaurant, even the drinks are smoked. 727 00:40:55,234 --> 00:40:57,846 Oh, this is so beautiful-- a smoked Aperol. 728 00:40:57,889 --> 00:41:00,239 Stanley Tucci has to see this. 729 00:41:00,283 --> 00:41:01,980 Salud. Gracias. - Bienvenida a Cuarto Blanco. 730 00:41:02,024 --> 00:41:03,199 - Mmm. 731 00:41:05,506 --> 00:41:07,029 Let's see. 732 00:41:11,468 --> 00:41:13,426 Mmm. 733 00:41:13,470 --> 00:41:15,037 [giggles] 734 00:41:15,080 --> 00:41:16,778 This is amazing. 735 00:41:16,821 --> 00:41:19,694 This is quite different from this morning 736 00:41:19,737 --> 00:41:22,871 but, at the same time, very, very familiar 737 00:41:22,914 --> 00:41:27,702 and definitely nods to the traditional way 738 00:41:27,745 --> 00:41:29,573 you make chile relleno. 739 00:41:39,757 --> 00:41:41,454 Mm-hmm. 740 00:41:41,498 --> 00:41:44,414 Just as my roots in Veracruz go back hundreds of years, 741 00:41:44,457 --> 00:41:48,287 so do the origins of every recipe. 742 00:41:48,331 --> 00:41:51,073 Veracruzanos continue to celebrate the produce 743 00:41:51,116 --> 00:41:52,857 that pass through their port, 744 00:41:52,901 --> 00:41:55,512 but fighting for the freedom to create something new 745 00:41:55,556 --> 00:41:58,559 has also been a cornerstone of their rich history. 746 00:41:58,602 --> 00:42:00,648 And with that kind of mindset, 747 00:42:00,691 --> 00:42:04,173 you just know there are more great things to come.