I've just learned that Carmel Snow is on her way to Paris.
- Are you listening? - I can hear you, yeah.
Harper's Bazaar must want her to find the next big name in fashion.
- We must invite her to see your work. - No, no, no.
Listen, Christian. Whoever Carmel Snow chooses to write about
will become the most important story in postwar couture.
- We must court the press. - I don't have it yet.
The piece, the definitive piece that will set the tone
for the entire collection.
I must find it.
You've already done enough to provide her with a tantalizing preview.
Let's find the models first.
- We can't wait for that. - I need to see my clothes
on an actual female form.
While you delay, she'll meet with all the designers.
Balmain, Balenciaga, Lelong.
And not only with your friends. But also your enemies.
- I don't have any enemies. - Make some.
It's incredible. You tracked down Montrachet '22 Grand Cru.
Of course.
Nothing less for our reunion, Carmel.
When you called me to tell me that you were living in Switzerland,
I knew I had to come to hear your story.
You have no idea how much it means to me that you're here.
Oh, darling.
Now, tell me truthfully
how are you?
I survived.
I don't know if I'm all right.
But the war... It's finally over.
But your atelier is still closed.
I don't think I'll ever open it again.
Poo-poo.
Don't you utter another word of that nonsense.
You closed your doors, while others like Lelong stayed open.
I don't care to disparage the actions of Lelong or
anyone else.
I just knew I had to stop everything.
You have been so traumatized.
What is that?
That, right there. Who gave that to you?
I make them.
No.
The ones I make are very fake and very beautiful.
They're even more beautiful than the real ones.
Well, you see, Paris needs you.
I can't go back to Paris.
My enemies... I have enemies...
Have spread lies about me.
Oh, good God. That's outrageous.
Rumors. Terrible lies that I collaborated with the enemy.
Don't believe them.
I would never.
I will get Paris to welcome you back.
We need you. I need you.
And I will not stop until you are back where you belong.
You're coming back to Paris.
Yes.
- Hello. - Hello.
- Magnificent. - Yes.
Perhaps we could try her in day dress number 47.
I'm desperate to be part
of your first collection, Monsieur Dior.
- I dream of it. - Uh-huh.
So you're currently modeling for Madame Grès?
Yes.
But Monsieur Dior's designs at the Louvre took my breath away.
Thank you very much.
Please tell Madame Grès that I say, "Hello."
Sorry.
Is she currently with another house?
Patou. She's working for Patou.
Sorry, but no. Sorry.
So it's no?
- She's with Ricci. - Taken.
- But... Please. - Taken.
Schiaparelli.
You may go. Rochas.
Lanvin. Fath. Molyneux. Lelong.
She's perfect. We could steal her from Balmain.
Would you please give Monsieur Balmain my kindest regards?
Really?
Well, we have no more models to see.
Find some more.
How? You've rejected all 22 of the finest models
- I could ever bring you. - They're all taken.
I know you're sensitive about offending the other designers,
Lelong in particular.
I am too, especially after we both left.
But have you spoken to him?
No. But, Christian, we have to push forward.
No, I'm not going to start poaching from my colleagues
and leave them scrambling.
- There must be other options. - Yes.
Make some enemies and then take from them.
Or do you prefer I put an ad in the paper asking for out-of-work models only?
Why not?
- Because it's absurd. - No.
It's a brilliant idea.
See? I knew you would come up with something. Go.
Let me get that.
It's okay, Papa. I can do it.
Don't forget the seeds for the herb garden.
See how good you are?
Your brothers never cared for the garden like you do.
Christian did.
Not like you.
Monsieur Friedman. It's so good to see your store so well stocked again.
I am wondering if you can tell me where the basil seeds are hiding.
Just behind the stalls.
Catherine?
It's so good to see you again.
You look so different than before.
You two know each other? Where from?
Catherine was working at the repatriation center
when I was looking for Tania.
She tried to help me.
You still have her picture?
Yes.
I fear she's gone forever.
If you hear anything, please let me know.
- What have you got there? - Nothing.
You're looking a bit haggard.
Perhaps you should lay off the sleep aids.
I will if you will.
Our supply is running low, by the way.
You're only supposed to take them for sleep, not during the day.
- Lately, all you do is sleep in. - Get more.
Go for a walk, why don't you? Take André. Enjoy the day.
You're always looking out for me.
How's our little boutique coming along?
Well, I met with Carmel Snow the other day.
She's looking for the next big story, and I plan to be it.
You told her about me, did you?
- About my involvement? - Yes, of course.
When she gets to Paris, she's gonna lay the foundation for our return.
And with the new perfume we're producing,
well, she's not going to find a more interesting story
than the rebirth of Coco Chanel.
Where are you going now?
I have a meeting.
Yeah, thanks. Sure. I'd love to come.
- Thank you so much for inviting me. - Not today, Elsa.
- But we're partners. - This is serious business.
Snow may be in our corner,
but the Wertheimers are still trying to ruin us.
This meeting is with someone who can help.
- Who? - I don't have time to explain.
Just find André.
And clean yourself up, for God's sake.
Ask anyone in New York,
and they will tell you that I am known for wearing nothing but Balenciaga.
I'm flattered. I thought you only wore Chanel.
I was just with her in Switzerland.
It is tragic how they're treating her here in Paris.
I count Mademoiselle Chanel as a friend,
but the situation she finds herself in is one of her own making, I'm afraid.
Really?
I thought for sure that you would be able to come to her defense.
There was a time when I could have.
But from what I've gathered from friends in the government,
the evidence is overwhelming.
She will need to answer for her actions.
It's a terrible tragedy.
Yes.
Parisian couture.
It could influence how hundreds and thousands of ordinary women
dress and dream and live.
Doesn't have to just be for wealthy Parisians.
American industry could bring French couture
to the entire world.
That sounds ambitious.
Fashion needs a new leader. A figurehead.
I want it to be you, Cristóbal.
Your designs, your talent.
All of your talents,
it demands a much larger canvas.
I have never enjoyed the press, nor the stardom.
Nor the spotlight.
What I do, I do for myself.
So, the world will have to find another savior.
Come visit me in America for a week, maybe two.
I will introduce you to all
our most influential buyers.
I will put you on the cover of Harper's for the first time,
and I guarantee you, not for the last.
There are others better suited. Pierre Balmain, for one.
Well, I'm seeing Mr. Balmain today.
Voilà.
What about Dior?
I heard that Marcel Boussac is financing him. Is that true?
That is true.
I saw pictures of two of his dresses at the Théâtre de la Mode.
I sense great potential.
Christian is not your man either.
And why not?
His talent.
His ambition is to create dresses for only 30 women.
- Really? - Yes.
That's intriguing.
Yes. An experiment of sort
to create the most beautiful clothing ever created.
Well, Dior is meticulous. In that way, we are similar.
Monsieur Boussac dreams big. He always has.
He won't want Christian Dior to be so exclusive for very long.
It is not up to Boussac. It is up to Dior.
And what does Dior think will happen after he's finished his little experiment?
Why don't you ask him yourself?
Great idea.
Ladies, you will put your names down.
Ladies, ladies, please.
Excuse me. Pardon.
Dior.
Stop pushing. Please, ladies.
What on earth is going on here?
Apparently, our advertisement went out
the same day the Ministry decided to close the brothels.
This is the result.
Well, you have your work cut out for you.
Hardly. None of them are suitable.
- Look, they are beautiful. - Please!
- None of them are suitable. Please. - Hello.
- Lady, please. Ladies, please. - Yes, you're very beautiful.
What about her?
- Yeah. - Who?
The mousy one?
Yes, just bring her up.
They must all be seen.
One at a time.
- Monsieur Dior! What are you doing? - Uh-huh?
There is a line of prostitutes in front of your house.
Yes. Not to worry, Monsieur Boussac.
I came to check on my investment, and this is what is happening?
Carmel Snow is in Paris. She could visit at any moment.
Yes, but we're not ready yet, so, she won't be allowed inside.
But this is outside.
- Please. - No, no. Listen,
you never get a second chance to make a first impression.
Now please, I implore you, Christian, get to work.
Marie-Thérèse.
Where are you from, my dear?
Here. Paris.
- Paris, yes? Your whole life? - Yes.
And did you stay during the war?
Yes, I stayed.
That must have been difficult, yes?
I had no choice. I had to work in a brothel.
I'm sorry. That was such a stupid question.
But now, tell me
have you ever thought about... Please.
- Have you ever thought about modeling? - No.
Well... Please excuse... You have beautiful features.
I think you'd be a perfect fit. Will you join us?
- Yes, if it's a job. I need a job. - Okay.
Monsieur Dior?
Please don't expect too much from me.
I'm not a real model.
Oh, my dear. Look. Please, look. See?
Can you see? Magnificent.
Please say "yes."
It would be my honor to have you wear my clothes.
I got your message, Herr Dincklage.
Look at this. "Agent Westminster"? Really? Are you trying to get me caught?
- I wanted to make sure you'd respond. - By threatening me? Are you crazy?
But then, you do look a bit harried.
Hiding out in dark corners.
Small rooms must not agree with you being on the run.
Are you gloating?
How does it feel not to have the vast might of the Reich
behind your every deception and whim?
It feels unfamiliar. Unwelcome, as you can remember.
You abandoned me.
It was flee or be captured.
The Resistance raided the church.
Someone tipped them off.
Any idea who that might have been?
Of course not. What do you want?
I need to lay low. Rest for a while.
Need help sorting out my travel documents, and I need cash.
Really? Is that all?
I'm using an alias now.
Peter Lang, silk merchant.
Could be your business associate.
No. It feels too risky to be in contact with you in any way.
Coco, my situation is desperate.
- I have my own problems. - Well, I can help you.
How? By dragging me back into the shadows?
The Wertheimers have a stranglehold on my company.
I'm trying to convince Harper's to write an article about my perfume.
So Agent Westminster must remain buried.
If anyone finds out I went on that mission for Schellenberg,
it will be the end of me.
Well, I have every reason to keep that secret.
What about documents?
Paperwork?
You think that there are any that can tie me to the Nazis?
I have a contact here who worked for Schellenberg.
She's helped me build my cover.
I can have her look into it.
Well, reassure me of that, and then I'll see about money.
Follow me back to the hotel.
Do you like that?
Well, that's what's known as Swiss jazz.
It's Coco, but who is she with?
Will wonders never cease?
Elsa.
- Looking splendid, as always. - Hi.
You know him?
Yes, I do, as a matter of fact.
Actually owes me rather a lot of money. I wonder if he'll remember.
André, this is an old friend of mine.
Pleased to make your acquaintance. I'm...
He's Spatz.
- He's a German, in spite of his accent. - Stop, Elsa.
This is Peter Lang.
Well, we'll all catch up later. Peter and I have things to discuss.
Yes. Let's catch up later.
I don't know.
What do you think it means?
Well, what did Carmel Snow say exactly?
She was very cold, surprisingly not very talkative.
But, she came to my atelier,
so I prepared a very nice lunch and showed her my drawings.
And then what?
Then she took them.
Without saying anything?
Not a word. She thanked me for lunch, but nothing about my designs.
She just took them. Has to be good, right?
She took them. Why would she take them if she didn't like them?
Why wouldn't she say she liked them, if she liked them?
I don't know.
Maybe she didn't like them
and took them so she wouldn't have to tell me she didn't like them.
Well, I don't know what it means.
I hate Carmel Snow. Hate her.
Elsa knows everything. She could turn us in and play the hero.
Impossible.
Forget that you care for her.
For all we know, the British enlisted her while they had her in custody.
- She could be working for MI6. - No.
And how can you be sure?
Don't try to poison me against Elsa.
You know I'm right, Coco.
No, you must stop!
Elsa is a danger that we share.
Leave her alone.
You can talk to me, you know.
Your troubles, I see them in your eyes.
Poor Friedman.
Tania's lost.
At the repatriation center, he asked if I knew her.
Did you?
People just want answers.
Simple answers.
There is no such thing.
Yes.
I knew her.
She was sweet and brave.
There's nothing in this world that is your fault, Catherine.
You must believe me.
Are you crying, Papa?
Sometimes we have to.
Well, maybe they can help me get my company back.
Tread carefully.
The tide of the war may soon be changing in favor of the Allies.
You don't want to end up like me. Sorry that I ever got into bed with them.
Hello.
Christian, I was napping earlier, and I dreamt you
and your brothers were here.
I think it's important that we're all together.
I want you all to come visit.
Well, that sounds lovely.
- Come tomorrow. - No, I can't come tomorrow.
Come, just for a day.
I... Look, I would love to, but I'm in the middle of work.
I have to see this fashion writer for my business.
Your business. You're too busy.
I just want it to be as good as it possibly can be,
and I don't have any time for anything else right now, Papa. That's all.
Why is your business so important? Family is important too.
Go see your brother. Bring him here.
No, I don't have the time, Father.
Your business.
You should never have started your own business,
not when you had a secure job with Lelong.
I mean, have you learned nothing from my mistakes?
Opportunity should never trump stability.
Go and see your brother.
Catherine is in no shape to do it, or I would have asked her.
You're the only one.
He wants me to go and visit my brother Bernard.
Why?
I mean, it doesn't matter why.
I can't do it. I can't go anywhere.
I am well aware of that.
Ai, Jacques. Don't be short with me, please.
I think I will go out for a drink.
Will you join me?
I wish I could. I can't.
Of course.
I don't want to be another burden.
I know you have to design.
It's not just the designing.
It's also this preoccupation with Carmel Snow,
as though the press was more important than making clothes.
This is beautiful.
You should honor your father's wishes. Go see your brother.
Carmel, I've been thinking.
I really would like to tell my story.
Oh, my dear.
To do an article about your return to Paris
is among my highest hopes but is not possible.
I don't understand.
The rumors about you,
they seem impossibly challenging to overcome.
I see.
But certainly you can attempt to move the needle.
Well, Harper's is insisting that I keep looking for the great collection
to rise from the ashes of the last five years.
Carmel, come back to Switzerland.
I will show you what real talent can deliver.
Of course, my dear.
I'll be there next week.
I need to get my skis fitted for the holidays.
Fantastic! This is ideal.
I will show you my latest fragrances.
I look forward to it.
Must go. Bye-bye.
I don't have it yet.
The piece, the definitive piece that will set the tone
for the entire collection.
PSYCHIATRIC HOSPITAL JEAN-PHILIPPE BOURDON
Monsieur Dior, your brother is in his usual spot.
He just woke up from a nap.
He doesn't usually like to speak until dinnertime.
Yes, I understand. I'd just like to sit with him.
Bernard?
It's me. Christian.
I'd like to sit with you. Yeah?
I'll do some sketching.
Do you see that?
There.
You should draw the trees.
The way they are dancing reminds me of people.
How are they treating you?
Fine, if you like asylums.
Well, who doesn't like a little peace and quiet now and then?
Plenty of quiet here.
Not much peace.
And you, how are you?
Busy.
I've been given my own atelier, so it's quite a lot of responsibility.
Finally, I'm designing for myself.
Your own business.
What would Mother think?
I think she would be most displeased, huh?
Father's failures.
It was too much for her.
She was so sensitive.
It was his fault
wasn't it?
Making a business out of fertilizer.
Running his shit factory and losing it all in the crash
and bringing shame on the name of Dior.
Don't forget her famous edict.
"Never again shall the name Dior feature on a shop front."
You still aren't drawing the trees.
No, it's a girl that I met.
Marie-Thérèse, a model that we are using.
A girl?
You?
She looks like Mother.
Perhaps.
Father called.
He wants us to visit him.
Oh, no. No. This is not possible.
It might be nice.
Please, Christian. You're making me nervous.
I might hyperventilate, and then they would all come rushing in.
Yeah. We don't want that.
Come. Walk with me.
I need to go for a walk.
Monsieur Dior really wanted to greet you personally,
but he had to leave town unexpectedly to see his brother.
Will he be furious that you brought me back to see these?
I just wanted you to have a glimpse to see what he's doing.
Yes.
Thank you.
I couldn't bear to have you seeing the work
of every other designer in Paris.
Yes.
I'm not seeing it yet, the piece that will define the collection.
I'll be in touch.
I've been reading about life and nature.
We are all two parts.
The upper and the under. The light and the dark.
In each of us,
they float like layers, separated by a bar.
Our dark half
our underneath, it needs to stay there, pressed down into the Earth.
Only then can the other part,
the light, rise up.
That's what you need to show the world.
Tell Father I cannot come home.
Coco, I have news.
I'm meeting my contact later.
That sounds nefarious.
Elsa, I'm only here to help.
Where's Coco?
We don't need your kind of help.
Well, I wouldn't be so sure.
You seem desperate.
Are you desperate?
No. I am completely and utterly without desperation.
You know, I can help.
I can get things.
What sort of things?
The sort of things you need.
You know, we've been around men like you our whole lives.
She can see right through you.
So can I.
I know what you need.
Spatz here was just offering to help us.
Carmel Snow is coming here tomorrow.
I need you both gone.
Yeah, but, Coco, we're
we're... partners.
All you are is a mess. Look at yourself.
Get out of my sight, Elsa.
Get out!
And you, go get me what I asked for!
I'll just be a moment. Please wait here.
You'll get me what I need, will you?
'Cause Coco won't. She hates me. She's always hated me.
- Elsa. - Yeah?
Nobody hates you. Just be patient.
I'm meeting someone who can help us, all right?
Yes, but you're meeting them for her, not me.
They'll be able to help you as well, all right?
Sit tight.
We've been messaging for so long, I forgot how mysterious you are.
Could it be that we were actually in Schellenberg's office when I last saw you?
Fräulein Klein.
I appreciate it.
Take two tablets every morning for three days.
Thank you very much.
CHEMIST
How is he, dear Schellenberg?
- You haven't heard? - No.
The Danish got him.
He has been in custody for some time now.
He has been talking.
And his files? His documents?
Many of them were destroyed but...
But?
Not all of them. There was no time.
And what about Operation Modellhut?
The Chanel debacle?
I can't say for sure.
Hello?
Hello. Excuse me.
I'd like some of your best narcotics, please.
I can get the prescription afterwards, if you...
- No. You can't come back here. - Maybe I could just...
- I have a knife. - Somebody, help!
Here are the papers for your new identity.
From the same man who forged mine.
He's good.
How good?
Good enough for us.
What have you planned for Chanel and her friend?
Have you decided if they are a threat?
Let go! Stop it! Please!
- Let go! - Go. I'll find you later.
I don't want to come with you! No! Please! Just don't.
I can't.
Oh, my.
It's fabulous.
I'm sure the bottles will fly out of the store.
Then you will help me?
If only I could.
Look, I haven't forgotten all you've done for fashion.
But, Coco, you must accept that there are some hurdles even I can't surmount.
Your present reputation makes it unthinkable for us to champion you.
Harper's wants to find a
a new postwar visionary to lead us into the next chapter.
The world isn't looking for old ladies like us.
I may be old, but I'm not dead.
I'm alive every day with ideas. New ideas.
I need to do my work.
Now, I find myself in this place, in this prison.
The world that once celebrated me
has now forgotten all that I did for fashion and for the world.
No. No, you are not forgotten.
If you can't write about me,
perhaps you can help in another way.
Well, if I can, I will.
Will you take some bottles back with you
and get them into the hands of people who matter?
If you can get your bottles delivered to my hotel, I'll do the rest.
Got to cut some herbs.
Let's have a salad for dinner.
Papa, there's something I wanted to tell you.
I'm listening.
- It's about Friedman's daughter, Tania. - Uh-huh?
I didn't tell you the whole story.
Fuck. Oh, God. Fuck.
Broke it.
Papa, did you hear what I said?
To the right a bit.
My mother would be horrified.
It's beautiful.
Papa?
You're just in time.
- Do you think it's too big? - No, no, no, no. It's perfect.
Well, what do you think? Do you think it's too big?
I have to talk to you.
- What is it? - Papa.
Papa. Papa.
Catherine called.
Your father died.
Papa? Papa? No.
Papa, wake up. Papa? Papa?
It was his heart, my love.
It gave out.
I don't have the time, Father.
I want you all to come visit.
I don't have the time.
Family is important too.
We are all two parts.
The light and the dark.
Separated by a bar.
What have you done?
That's what you need to show the world.
Where are all the sketches?
I found it.
The definitive piece.