1 00:00:01,451 --> 00:00:04,037 (light music) 2 00:00:05,288 --> 00:00:09,342 - [Kevin] They didn't expect to see what they saw. 3 00:00:11,277 --> 00:00:15,498 And when they saw it, they could never forget it. 4 00:00:21,988 --> 00:00:23,807 Ferdinand Hayden was hired to lead a team 5 00:00:23,840 --> 00:00:25,258 into the Northwest Territories. 6 00:00:27,927 --> 00:00:30,163 And the 32 men headed west. 7 00:00:35,952 --> 00:00:37,554 They weren't here to protect Yellowstone. 8 00:00:38,688 --> 00:00:42,108 They were here to tear it to shreds in the name of progress. 9 00:00:43,276 --> 00:00:48,364 Gold interests, railroad barons, Congress. 10 00:00:50,283 --> 00:00:53,086 Powerful people wanted this land for themselves. 11 00:00:57,223 --> 00:00:59,559 But something happened during their three month journey, 12 00:01:02,245 --> 00:01:07,267 and slowly but surely, their mission changed. 13 00:01:09,969 --> 00:01:12,138 So as we celebrate the 150th anniversary 14 00:01:12,172 --> 00:01:14,207 of Yellowstone National Park, 15 00:01:15,225 --> 00:01:19,095 we take a look back in time at the events 16 00:01:19,129 --> 00:01:24,100 that led to the preservation of this magical place. 17 00:01:37,881 --> 00:01:41,267 (upbeat majestic music) 18 00:02:29,766 --> 00:02:31,484 What's the day? 19 00:02:31,518 --> 00:02:33,386 April 25th, 26th? 20 00:02:34,904 --> 00:02:37,207 Most the country's thawing out 21 00:02:37,240 --> 00:02:41,144 celebrating the arrival of spring, but not here, man. 22 00:02:43,980 --> 00:02:47,116 (upbeat majestic music) 23 00:02:47,150 --> 00:02:49,219 This is Yellowstone, eight months a year. 24 00:02:53,406 --> 00:02:55,408 (wolf howls) 25 00:03:00,096 --> 00:03:02,265 You know, the crazy thing is that 98% 26 00:03:02,298 --> 00:03:05,218 of the people who come to visit will never see it like this. 27 00:03:07,136 --> 00:03:09,189 If you ask me, this is a way to do it. 28 00:03:10,607 --> 00:03:11,357 It's perfect. 29 00:03:12,842 --> 00:03:14,127 It's just perfect. 30 00:03:19,165 --> 00:03:22,302 Ferdinand Hayden tried to survey this area in 1862. 31 00:03:25,538 --> 00:03:26,289 Planned it perfectly. 32 00:03:26,322 --> 00:03:29,075 You know, he came out in the summer, 33 00:03:29,108 --> 00:03:31,744 but then a huge storm in late June 34 00:03:31,778 --> 00:03:33,246 made the mountains impassable. 35 00:03:34,330 --> 00:03:37,116 Took him nine more years to make it back here. 36 00:03:38,701 --> 00:03:40,119 It's a good thing he did. 37 00:03:45,541 --> 00:03:48,428 (upbeat majestic music) 38 00:03:59,339 --> 00:04:01,441 Yellowstone in the winter is a thing of beauty. 39 00:04:14,187 --> 00:04:17,307 On an average year, 150 inches of snow will fall. 40 00:04:19,092 --> 00:04:22,262 And at higher elevations it's often twice that. 41 00:04:24,163 --> 00:04:27,400 More than six months a year it looks like this. 42 00:04:33,823 --> 00:04:35,675 Even the summer months aren't safe 43 00:04:35,708 --> 00:04:37,210 from the occasional snowfall. 44 00:04:50,390 --> 00:04:53,359 In one of Yellowstone's most spectacular winter sites 45 00:04:54,327 --> 00:04:56,145 diamond dust floats through the air 46 00:04:56,179 --> 00:04:58,665 like a cloud of tiny mirrors. 47 00:04:58,698 --> 00:05:01,267 (light music) 48 00:05:06,205 --> 00:05:09,275 It gets so cold here that water vapor crystallizes. 49 00:05:19,952 --> 00:05:21,354 It is both beautiful, 50 00:05:25,641 --> 00:05:26,426 and cruel. 51 00:05:35,601 --> 00:05:38,104 (bird quacks) 52 00:05:38,137 --> 00:05:41,174 Some will endure its challenges, 53 00:05:44,594 --> 00:05:48,281 while others seek out safe havens in lower elevations. 54 00:05:51,417 --> 00:05:55,154 Some will burrow in dens and wait out the season. 55 00:06:05,081 --> 00:06:06,833 While others thrive in a wild 56 00:06:06,866 --> 00:06:08,351 that has turned in their favor. 57 00:06:13,373 --> 00:06:15,341 (bird calls) 58 00:06:16,759 --> 00:06:18,177 But one thing is certain, 59 00:06:22,181 --> 00:06:24,417 in Yellowstone winner cannot be ignored. 60 00:06:43,770 --> 00:06:45,688 The American bison is the largest 61 00:06:45,721 --> 00:06:47,340 land mammal in North America. 62 00:06:50,943 --> 00:06:52,779 They've lived in Yellowstone continuously 63 00:06:52,812 --> 00:06:54,480 since prehistoric times. 64 00:06:58,267 --> 00:07:00,153 You ever look at a bison and wonder 65 00:07:00,186 --> 00:07:02,288 why they have those massive humps? 66 00:07:04,307 --> 00:07:07,393 It's a perfectly evolved adaptation to deal with the snow. 67 00:07:09,262 --> 00:07:12,014 Most ungulates forge for grass by breaking up 68 00:07:12,048 --> 00:07:13,466 the snow with their hooves. 69 00:07:16,135 --> 00:07:18,204 That won't work here in Yellowstone. 70 00:07:18,888 --> 00:07:21,390 The snow's too heavy, too deep. 71 00:07:23,075 --> 00:07:25,344 So the bison evolve massive neck muscles that power 72 00:07:25,378 --> 00:07:28,347 their enormous head side to side like a snowplow 73 00:07:29,732 --> 00:07:31,400 exposing the grass underneath. 74 00:07:32,768 --> 00:07:34,020 The temperature here can get 75 00:07:34,053 --> 00:07:37,190 as low as negative 60 degrees Fahrenheit. 76 00:07:38,141 --> 00:07:40,226 So it's good to pack a heavy coat. 77 00:07:43,212 --> 00:07:46,466 The bison's is so heavy that their body heat 78 00:07:46,499 --> 00:07:49,235 doesn't even melt the snow that collects on their fur. 79 00:07:51,120 --> 00:07:53,072 Their skin thickens in winter 80 00:07:54,357 --> 00:07:57,210 and fatty deposits keep them warm from the inside. 81 00:07:57,743 --> 00:08:00,329 (light music) 82 00:08:03,883 --> 00:08:06,786 But even the perfectly adapted bison have 83 00:08:06,819 --> 00:08:08,387 to fight to survive every winter. 84 00:08:14,610 --> 00:08:16,028 If it snows too much, 85 00:08:19,832 --> 00:08:21,284 they can't access the grass 86 00:08:21,317 --> 00:08:23,469 they need to fuel their massive bodies. 87 00:08:41,103 --> 00:08:43,506 When the Hayden expedition first came to Yellowstone 88 00:08:44,373 --> 00:08:46,526 they took note not only of the largest herd 89 00:08:46,559 --> 00:08:51,197 that roamed the valleys, but also the large number 90 00:08:51,230 --> 00:08:53,499 of dead bison that fed the parks predators. 91 00:09:01,958 --> 00:09:03,776 Their left over after the unrelenting winner 92 00:09:03,809 --> 00:09:05,211 culls the herd. 93 00:09:07,880 --> 00:09:09,665 The harsh conditions kill one 94 00:09:09,699 --> 00:09:11,350 out of 10 bison every year. 95 00:09:16,289 --> 00:09:21,327 This has become known simply as winter kill. 96 00:09:24,547 --> 00:09:27,066 (bird calls) 97 00:09:34,957 --> 00:09:36,459 It provides predators in the park 98 00:09:36,492 --> 00:09:40,012 with as much as 800,000 pounds of meat each winter. 99 00:09:45,568 --> 00:09:47,003 (dramatic music) 100 00:09:47,036 --> 00:09:49,272 Everyone wants a piece of the action, 101 00:09:56,062 --> 00:09:58,397 because the window of opportunity is small. 102 00:10:00,016 --> 00:10:02,501 The next snowstorm is usually just hours away 103 00:10:02,535 --> 00:10:06,305 and anything left uneaten will be buried until spring. 104 00:10:10,760 --> 00:10:13,379 (light music) 105 00:10:19,935 --> 00:10:22,171 Hoping to avoid that fate, 106 00:10:22,204 --> 00:10:24,674 these bison endure long migration 107 00:10:24,707 --> 00:10:26,142 to lower elevations. 108 00:10:29,328 --> 00:10:31,864 Were super heated water beneath the surface 109 00:10:31,897 --> 00:10:33,382 melts the snow above. 110 00:10:38,921 --> 00:10:40,239 There they will find the grass 111 00:10:40,272 --> 00:10:42,375 they need to survive until spring. 112 00:10:50,082 --> 00:10:52,234 Every living thing in Yellowstone spends 113 00:10:52,268 --> 00:10:55,454 at least half the year battling the harsh conditions. 114 00:11:00,810 --> 00:11:02,228 It was something the pioneers 115 00:11:02,261 --> 00:11:05,898 on the Hayden Expedition wanted to avoid dealing with, 116 00:11:05,931 --> 00:11:07,433 making their journey in the summer. 117 00:11:11,687 --> 00:11:12,972 But they quickly found out 118 00:11:13,005 --> 00:11:14,790 that even the best laid plans 119 00:11:14,824 --> 00:11:16,375 can be undone quickly here. 120 00:11:19,862 --> 00:11:21,180 And so did I. 121 00:11:28,020 --> 00:11:31,323 You know, sometimes I find myself wondering 122 00:11:32,675 --> 00:11:34,126 whose brilliant idea was this. 123 00:11:35,327 --> 00:11:39,115 Usually when that happens, I'm the culprit. 124 00:11:39,148 --> 00:11:42,435 But man, Yellowstone and the stone cold, 125 00:11:43,936 --> 00:11:45,538 it's no country for the faint of heart. 126 00:11:47,907 --> 00:11:50,292 I mean, the animals have had millions 127 00:11:50,326 --> 00:11:52,495 of years to adapt to the conditions. 128 00:11:52,528 --> 00:11:56,082 And even still, there's plenty that don't make it. 129 00:11:58,200 --> 00:12:00,386 Being here makes me think about George Allen. 130 00:12:03,806 --> 00:12:05,608 One of the two journals to survive 131 00:12:05,641 --> 00:12:07,243 through time was Allen's. 132 00:12:07,276 --> 00:12:10,379 He was a geologist in Hayden's mentor. 133 00:12:10,413 --> 00:12:13,349 He was one of the older gentlemen on the expedition. 134 00:12:14,700 --> 00:12:16,035 And sometime in the, 135 00:12:16,919 --> 00:12:19,555 sometime in late July in 1871, 136 00:12:19,588 --> 00:12:23,292 another big storm blew through and it buried everything. 137 00:12:23,325 --> 00:12:26,195 And Alan was in his tent shivering, 138 00:12:28,013 --> 00:12:29,832 kinda same way as I am right now. 139 00:12:29,865 --> 00:12:31,083 And he wrote about, 140 00:12:32,084 --> 00:12:34,053 he wrote about how miserable he was. 141 00:12:34,870 --> 00:12:37,139 Wasn't sure he'd survived the expedition. 142 00:12:38,007 --> 00:12:39,492 He left the next day. 143 00:12:42,812 --> 00:12:44,230 That's probably a good decision. 144 00:12:46,766 --> 00:12:48,200 Probably a really good decision. 145 00:12:58,561 --> 00:13:02,014 Yellowstone National Park is an easy place to visit, 146 00:13:03,032 --> 00:13:06,352 but living here, that's anything but easy. 147 00:13:09,121 --> 00:13:11,240 Every species that has managed to survive 148 00:13:11,273 --> 00:13:14,093 the winters has only done so through adaptation. 149 00:13:17,413 --> 00:13:20,032 (light music) 150 00:13:34,196 --> 00:13:37,249 These river otters are perfectly adapted to the conditions. 151 00:13:40,970 --> 00:13:43,455 Thick hair protects warm skin from cold water. 152 00:13:50,379 --> 00:13:52,531 That's why their pelts were so sought after 153 00:13:53,766 --> 00:13:55,017 by the hunters and trappers 154 00:13:55,050 --> 00:13:56,001 who made their way to the Yellowstone region 155 00:13:56,035 --> 00:13:58,070 long before Hayden and his men. 156 00:14:01,991 --> 00:14:03,976 The otter furs were in high demand 157 00:14:04,009 --> 00:14:06,779 by the wealthiest people back east, 158 00:14:06,812 --> 00:14:07,930 because of the warmth they provided 159 00:14:07,963 --> 00:14:10,115 and the luster of the fur. 160 00:14:12,968 --> 00:14:14,870 Today, the otters in Yellowstone 161 00:14:14,904 --> 00:14:16,455 don't have to worry about trappers. 162 00:14:18,841 --> 00:14:20,726 Their battle is keeping themselves fed 163 00:14:20,759 --> 00:14:22,177 during the cold winter months. 164 00:14:28,751 --> 00:14:29,585 The steady supply of fish 165 00:14:29,618 --> 00:14:33,255 and open water can only be counted on in the warmer months. 166 00:14:39,912 --> 00:14:41,480 The winter freeze chokes off the river, 167 00:14:43,265 --> 00:14:46,285 cutting off the food supply for the mother and her two pups. 168 00:14:58,180 --> 00:15:00,516 They go from one hole in the ice to another 169 00:15:00,549 --> 00:15:01,984 in search of a meal. 170 00:15:09,058 --> 00:15:11,744 But with every fish they pull from the icy depths, 171 00:15:11,777 --> 00:15:13,145 the supplies lessened. 172 00:15:14,313 --> 00:15:17,433 And soon this family will need to find a new place to fish. 173 00:15:20,019 --> 00:15:22,271 River otters may reign supreme in water, 174 00:15:22,304 --> 00:15:25,190 but on land it's a different story together. 175 00:15:26,175 --> 00:15:29,295 Here they go from hunter to hunted. 176 00:15:32,031 --> 00:15:33,882 Alternating between hopping and sliding, 177 00:15:33,916 --> 00:15:35,367 they can reach speeds 178 00:15:35,401 --> 00:15:38,203 of 15 miles per hour through the heavy snow. 179 00:15:43,726 --> 00:15:45,911 They'll need that speed 180 00:15:45,945 --> 00:15:47,479 as they search for a new fishing hole. 181 00:15:49,064 --> 00:15:51,050 And predators are abound. 182 00:16:01,260 --> 00:16:04,830 While the otter family struggles against the cold and snow, 183 00:16:04,863 --> 00:16:06,265 wolfs thrive. 184 00:16:14,707 --> 00:16:17,176 (wolf calls) 185 00:16:18,143 --> 00:16:21,146 In these conditions, they're top dog. 186 00:16:30,906 --> 00:16:33,125 But winter brings territorial disputes, 187 00:16:33,976 --> 00:16:37,046 and at times unbridled savagery. 188 00:16:40,983 --> 00:16:43,185 This is when strong packs expand 189 00:16:44,953 --> 00:16:47,106 and weak packs die off. 190 00:16:48,490 --> 00:16:51,326 The druid pack once rained supreme in this area, 191 00:16:52,011 --> 00:16:54,179 only to wither in recent years 192 00:16:54,213 --> 00:16:56,348 as Molly's pack has taken the throne. 193 00:16:58,133 --> 00:17:01,170 But with success comes problems 194 00:17:01,203 --> 00:17:04,223 and Molly's pack already finds itself in turmoil. 195 00:17:09,595 --> 00:17:13,248 Rival packs are constantly on the lookout for new territory. 196 00:17:15,084 --> 00:17:18,220 Recently a pack of 15 wolves traveled 40 miles outside 197 00:17:18,253 --> 00:17:21,140 of their territory to take on another pack. 198 00:17:22,207 --> 00:17:25,177 Securing territory is key to their survival. 199 00:17:26,145 --> 00:17:28,197 More land means more hunting grounds. 200 00:17:29,431 --> 00:17:32,151 (dramatic music) 201 00:17:46,415 --> 00:17:51,353 In winter, elk is the main thing on the menu for this pack. 202 00:17:56,041 --> 00:17:59,094 90% of their diet is elk during this cold period. 203 00:18:03,132 --> 00:18:05,350 An elk cow has been separated from the harem. 204 00:18:08,070 --> 00:18:10,322 And even with strength in numbers 205 00:18:10,355 --> 00:18:14,159 fighting off a wolf pack is a hero's task. 206 00:18:17,012 --> 00:18:18,997 The wolves move on to high ground 207 00:18:20,182 --> 00:18:24,286 and when the sun goes down, they will strike. 208 00:18:26,038 --> 00:18:29,174 When they do, they'll announce it to the world. 209 00:18:36,482 --> 00:18:39,084 (wolf calls) 210 00:18:42,771 --> 00:18:45,257 (bird calls) 211 00:18:52,881 --> 00:18:54,082 The wolf's ability to hunt 212 00:18:54,116 --> 00:18:56,735 elk doesn't just keep them well fed. 213 00:18:56,768 --> 00:18:58,403 It keeps the park in balance. 214 00:19:00,088 --> 00:19:02,274 By thinning out oversized elk populations 215 00:19:02,307 --> 00:19:05,344 and cutting down the weak and sick among them 216 00:19:05,377 --> 00:19:09,114 they leave stronger, more resilient elk herds behind. 217 00:19:11,049 --> 00:19:13,152 The elk cow has made a good meal, 218 00:19:14,520 --> 00:19:15,304 but it's not enough. 219 00:19:16,505 --> 00:19:17,372 It's never enough. 220 00:19:20,108 --> 00:19:22,327 These wolves need more calories in the winter. 221 00:19:24,963 --> 00:19:26,348 Moving through heavy snow 222 00:19:26,381 --> 00:19:29,201 and maintaining body heat requires more energy. 223 00:19:31,770 --> 00:19:33,305 So they're on the prowl for more, 224 00:19:34,606 --> 00:19:36,041 and always will be. 225 00:19:37,259 --> 00:19:41,463 Like I said, it's an easy place to visit, 226 00:19:41,496 --> 00:19:42,314 tough place to live. 227 00:19:47,052 --> 00:19:49,121 This male bobcat is another creature 228 00:19:49,154 --> 00:19:51,323 that will fight to survive all winter long. 229 00:19:54,026 --> 00:19:55,427 Every meal will be a battle. 230 00:20:00,983 --> 00:20:03,402 A duck, now that's good eating. 231 00:20:05,370 --> 00:20:08,156 It could keep him fed for several days. 232 00:20:12,211 --> 00:20:15,214 He typically prowls the conifer forest of Yellowstone. 233 00:20:16,148 --> 00:20:18,967 But desperate times call for desperate measures. 234 00:20:19,001 --> 00:20:20,419 And he comes into the open today. 235 00:20:24,006 --> 00:20:25,924 His small feet and short legs 236 00:20:25,958 --> 00:20:27,426 aren't built for the loose snow. 237 00:20:30,679 --> 00:20:32,147 And despite his appetite 238 00:20:32,180 --> 00:20:34,433 he's hesitant to get into the cold water. 239 00:20:40,055 --> 00:20:41,940 Though the bobcat is a skilled hunter 240 00:20:41,974 --> 00:20:43,342 this isn't a fair fight. 241 00:20:44,626 --> 00:20:45,477 He's out of his element. 242 00:20:51,566 --> 00:20:55,153 Finding meals will only get harder as winter continues 243 00:20:55,187 --> 00:20:57,472 and fat stores and energy reserves dwindle. 244 00:21:02,160 --> 00:21:04,246 And if the bobcat is going to feed, 245 00:21:05,714 --> 00:21:08,133 all he can do is buy his time 246 00:21:08,166 --> 00:21:10,168 and wait for the right opportunity. 247 00:21:24,666 --> 00:21:27,386 (dramatic music) 248 00:21:50,776 --> 00:21:52,411 As lovely as the sight is, 249 00:21:54,179 --> 00:21:56,348 as lucid and clean the fallen snow, 250 00:21:58,800 --> 00:22:00,152 I can't help but think 251 00:22:00,185 --> 00:22:02,187 of the chaos that winter brings with it. 252 00:22:05,941 --> 00:22:07,326 Ever been to a bonfire? 253 00:22:08,810 --> 00:22:10,245 You know, that's how when you 254 00:22:10,278 --> 00:22:12,180 first show up people are all spread out. 255 00:22:12,214 --> 00:22:13,815 Maybe there's a few around the fire 256 00:22:13,849 --> 00:22:16,184 but you got some people over here 257 00:22:16,218 --> 00:22:18,303 and you got another group over there. 258 00:22:20,088 --> 00:22:23,241 Then it gets late and night grows cold. 259 00:22:23,275 --> 00:22:24,926 Eventually, every last person that's huddled 260 00:22:24,960 --> 00:22:26,278 around that fire. 261 00:22:31,466 --> 00:22:32,234 That down there, 262 00:22:33,952 --> 00:22:35,253 that's a bonfire. 263 00:22:41,910 --> 00:22:43,412 When it gets warmer 264 00:22:43,445 --> 00:22:45,313 the animals spread out and make their way up 265 00:22:45,347 --> 00:22:47,532 the ranges all the way to the peaks. 266 00:22:48,850 --> 00:22:50,302 Then when the snow comes, 267 00:22:51,470 --> 00:22:54,873 they head back down to the Valley seeking refuge, 268 00:22:54,906 --> 00:22:56,391 creatures that have absolutely 269 00:22:56,425 --> 00:22:59,311 no interest in being friends huddle around that fire. 270 00:23:01,863 --> 00:23:04,299 When it gets 30, 40 degrees below zero 271 00:23:04,332 --> 00:23:08,170 that fire dims and they huddle even closer. 272 00:23:09,838 --> 00:23:11,323 That's when all hell breaks loose. 273 00:23:12,858 --> 00:23:15,427 (dramatic music) 274 00:23:21,733 --> 00:23:24,336 (wolf calls) 275 00:23:27,923 --> 00:23:29,458 The large herds that graze the valleys 276 00:23:29,491 --> 00:23:32,994 in spring and summer have broken into smaller groups 277 00:23:33,028 --> 00:23:35,397 as they migrate toward the lower elevations. 278 00:23:41,770 --> 00:23:43,288 And no one is more aware of this 279 00:23:43,321 --> 00:23:45,273 than the wolves who track these smaller herds 280 00:23:45,307 --> 00:23:47,426 as they migrate towards the bonfire. 281 00:24:08,597 --> 00:24:11,316 (dramatic music) 282 00:24:18,106 --> 00:24:20,025 These bison have traveled 40 miles 283 00:24:20,058 --> 00:24:21,493 to reach the geyser basin. 284 00:24:33,939 --> 00:24:37,509 For a migration that began weeks ago. 285 00:24:37,542 --> 00:24:40,412 The steam from the thermal vents is a welcome site, 286 00:24:46,368 --> 00:24:49,304 but the warmth of the thermals draws in predator and prey. 287 00:24:54,809 --> 00:24:57,429 (light music) 288 00:25:02,050 --> 00:25:05,437 The bison herd arrives at the geyser basin. 289 00:25:16,264 --> 00:25:18,783 The super volcano beneath the Earth's surface fights 290 00:25:18,817 --> 00:25:20,218 against the cold above, 291 00:25:23,705 --> 00:25:25,307 sending steam outward, 292 00:25:25,340 --> 00:25:28,260 melting the snow and exposing the grass. 293 00:25:31,863 --> 00:25:34,065 But there is a downside to grazing here. 294 00:25:36,318 --> 00:25:39,437 The grass that grows near the thermal has less nutrients 295 00:25:42,991 --> 00:25:45,577 and the long journey to get here took a lot 296 00:25:45,610 --> 00:25:46,378 out of the bison. 297 00:25:52,867 --> 00:25:54,853 By the time they arrive 298 00:25:54,886 --> 00:25:56,321 they're at their weakest. 299 00:26:03,678 --> 00:26:05,230 And wolves are opportunists. 300 00:26:09,884 --> 00:26:11,486 They've traveled across the park to greet 301 00:26:11,519 --> 00:26:16,308 the bison at the bonfire, just like they do every winter. 302 00:26:22,280 --> 00:26:24,833 Taking on a herd of healthy bison at full strength 303 00:26:24,866 --> 00:26:26,318 isn't worth the effort, 304 00:26:31,289 --> 00:26:33,275 but in their tired, weakened state, 305 00:26:36,611 --> 00:26:37,362 the wolves will come. 306 00:26:43,285 --> 00:26:45,470 With the sun setting, the attack is imminent. 307 00:26:46,688 --> 00:26:49,424 (dramatic music) 308 00:26:59,951 --> 00:27:03,121 Under the cover of darkness they strike, 309 00:27:12,981 --> 00:27:15,066 and by the time the sun rises, 310 00:27:18,820 --> 00:27:20,338 the wolves are finishing their meal. 311 00:27:31,666 --> 00:27:32,984 They'll eat as much as 20 pounds 312 00:27:33,018 --> 00:27:35,153 of meat each on a kill like this. 313 00:27:47,882 --> 00:27:49,434 With their bellies full, 314 00:27:49,467 --> 00:27:52,037 the wolves will leave the bison herd alone today. 315 00:27:58,993 --> 00:28:01,012 Tonight will be a different story. 316 00:28:04,366 --> 00:28:07,068 (dramatic music) 317 00:28:13,775 --> 00:28:15,226 Back at the riverbank, 318 00:28:15,260 --> 00:28:18,329 the starving bobcat continues his fight for survival. 319 00:28:23,685 --> 00:28:26,371 He needs a meal, and soon. 320 00:28:28,306 --> 00:28:31,743 A musk rat may not taste as good as a duck, 321 00:28:31,776 --> 00:28:33,078 but it'll have to do. 322 00:28:34,345 --> 00:28:36,815 The semi-aquatic musk rat builds his burrow 323 00:28:36,848 --> 00:28:38,083 on the river bank. 324 00:28:41,136 --> 00:28:46,174 Little does he know he's being hunted. 325 00:28:51,679 --> 00:28:53,131 The bobcat was reluctant to jump 326 00:28:53,164 --> 00:28:55,366 into the freezing water to catch the duck, 327 00:28:57,685 --> 00:28:59,053 but he's one day hungrier. 328 00:28:59,921 --> 00:29:01,389 One day more desperate. 329 00:29:29,017 --> 00:29:31,419 Another meal has slipped away. 330 00:29:33,188 --> 00:29:36,007 It's going to be a long winter for the bobcat. 331 00:29:38,092 --> 00:29:42,380 If his luck doesn't change soon, it may be a short one. 332 00:29:42,413 --> 00:29:45,133 (dramatic music) 333 00:29:54,876 --> 00:29:57,128 At the higher elevations, 334 00:29:58,913 --> 00:30:00,799 Yellowstone's big horn sheep fight 335 00:30:00,832 --> 00:30:02,200 their own battle every winter. 336 00:30:14,045 --> 00:30:15,964 The big horn sheep in Yellowstone descend 337 00:30:15,997 --> 00:30:18,132 from sheep that left Siberia 338 00:30:18,166 --> 00:30:20,869 and migrated across the Bering land bridge. 339 00:30:20,902 --> 00:30:23,054 750,000 years ago, 340 00:30:26,741 --> 00:30:28,092 they became the primary source 341 00:30:28,126 --> 00:30:31,162 of food for the indigenous Tukudika tribe 342 00:30:31,196 --> 00:30:33,832 who lived in Yellowstone thousands of years 343 00:30:33,865 --> 00:30:35,500 before Hayden ever set foot there. 344 00:30:39,971 --> 00:30:42,740 Tukudika is roughly translated to eaters 345 00:30:42,774 --> 00:30:44,075 of the mountain sheep, 346 00:30:46,961 --> 00:30:48,930 and the tribes lived at high elevations 347 00:30:48,963 --> 00:30:50,448 where the big horn was plentiful. 348 00:30:52,967 --> 00:30:55,303 They used the sheep not only for food, 349 00:30:55,336 --> 00:30:58,456 but by warming their horns in Yellowstone's thermal waters, 350 00:31:00,158 --> 00:31:02,227 they could shape them into extremely durable bows. 351 00:31:05,046 --> 00:31:06,881 There used to be millions of big horns spread 352 00:31:06,915 --> 00:31:09,033 across the Western United States, 353 00:31:11,085 --> 00:31:14,105 today there are fewer than 70,000. 354 00:31:15,974 --> 00:31:19,110 And each winter, Yellowstone's big horn 355 00:31:19,143 --> 00:31:23,181 decide who gets to mate this year and who doesn't. 356 00:31:25,817 --> 00:31:27,252 Through a series of battles, 357 00:31:28,219 --> 00:31:30,521 toughest males established dominance, 358 00:31:35,927 --> 00:31:38,062 only they will have breeding rights. 359 00:31:38,713 --> 00:31:41,432 (dramatic music) 360 00:31:44,068 --> 00:31:47,088 A fully grown ram can weigh 300 pounds, 361 00:31:48,039 --> 00:31:50,275 40 of which are held in their horns. 362 00:31:51,960 --> 00:31:54,178 Their skulls have two layers of cushion above 363 00:31:54,212 --> 00:31:57,282 the brain which absorb the impact of the collision. 364 00:32:05,023 --> 00:32:06,824 The sounds of winter are almost as incredible 365 00:32:06,858 --> 00:32:08,192 as the sights. 366 00:32:15,750 --> 00:32:17,435 Almost is incredible. 367 00:32:21,539 --> 00:32:25,076 There's something majestic about the snow covered peaks. 368 00:32:29,514 --> 00:32:32,317 Something inspiring about seeing the wild world. 369 00:32:36,838 --> 00:32:38,523 Unchanged by the hands of man. 370 00:32:40,975 --> 00:32:42,527 Unchanged by the hands of time. 371 00:32:47,765 --> 00:32:50,268 (bird calls) 372 00:32:57,558 --> 00:32:59,944 I don't think I'm any different than anyone else. 373 00:32:59,978 --> 00:33:01,596 We all grew up in different places. 374 00:33:01,629 --> 00:33:03,097 I grew up in the inner city. 375 00:33:03,131 --> 00:33:05,216 I was born in a place called Compton, California. 376 00:33:07,301 --> 00:33:09,787 But I remember when I got my first glimpse 377 00:33:09,821 --> 00:33:12,190 of the Rocky Mountains. 378 00:33:15,126 --> 00:33:17,378 You know, it was like the scales came off my eyes 379 00:33:17,412 --> 00:33:21,065 and I thought could there be a place like this in the world? 380 00:33:26,170 --> 00:33:28,890 The reality is that America's so big, 381 00:33:28,923 --> 00:33:31,042 and Yellowstone reminds you 382 00:33:31,075 --> 00:33:33,227 of what the country might have looked 383 00:33:33,261 --> 00:33:36,147 like before there was any outsiders that ever came, 384 00:33:37,265 --> 00:33:39,517 and to know that the rivers still flow 385 00:33:40,818 --> 00:33:42,253 and these mountains still stand. 386 00:33:46,140 --> 00:33:49,360 There is something that we should be thankful for, 387 00:33:50,962 --> 00:33:53,948 the human will to convince other people 388 00:33:53,981 --> 00:33:55,533 that this is worth keeping. 389 00:33:58,002 --> 00:34:00,238 It wasn't a battle and it was uphill 390 00:34:02,073 --> 00:34:05,126 but it was about one man who believed he had 391 00:34:05,159 --> 00:34:09,197 an idea about himself, so much so that he knew 392 00:34:09,230 --> 00:34:12,366 if given the chance he could change the world. 393 00:34:12,400 --> 00:34:15,002 (light music) 394 00:34:17,338 --> 00:34:20,825 Ferdinand Hayden's determination to convince the US 395 00:34:20,858 --> 00:34:22,877 Congress to protect Yellowstone 396 00:34:22,910 --> 00:34:25,079 rather than let it be torn apart is 397 00:34:25,113 --> 00:34:27,231 the reason we can tell these stories today. 398 00:34:28,299 --> 00:34:32,270 It's the reason that the bobcats and bison, 399 00:34:35,139 --> 00:34:38,910 and wolves have this pristine landscape to roam, 400 00:34:38,943 --> 00:34:43,114 to breed, to fight, and to survive. 401 00:34:44,532 --> 00:34:47,151 (wolf calls) 402 00:34:49,036 --> 00:34:51,239 Survival is the name of the game in winter. 403 00:34:57,028 --> 00:34:59,013 The river otters continue their desperate trek 404 00:34:59,046 --> 00:35:01,132 to find a new food source. 405 00:35:04,786 --> 00:35:06,053 They've made their way 406 00:35:06,087 --> 00:35:08,139 to a place where the water never freezes. 407 00:35:11,776 --> 00:35:13,044 The upper falls. 408 00:35:17,081 --> 00:35:20,051 Water crashing from the falls churns the pool below, 409 00:35:21,018 --> 00:35:23,020 preventing it from freezing. 410 00:35:29,110 --> 00:35:32,063 But the fishing hole is 109 feet down. 411 00:35:39,887 --> 00:35:42,073 In the summer of 1871, 412 00:35:43,374 --> 00:35:45,693 Hayden and his men used ropes to traverse the falls 413 00:35:45,726 --> 00:35:47,245 as they explored Yellowstone. 414 00:35:51,449 --> 00:35:54,385 Believe it or not, these otters don't have any ropes. 415 00:36:01,292 --> 00:36:04,095 But the snow creates another opportunity. 416 00:36:04,745 --> 00:36:07,265 (light music) 417 00:36:13,104 --> 00:36:15,406 Mom teaches the pups the art of sledding. 418 00:36:28,502 --> 00:36:31,389 (light music continues) 419 00:36:44,252 --> 00:36:47,071 The otter family makes it to their new fishing hole. 420 00:36:51,309 --> 00:36:56,280 They're back in their element, and soon they'll die. 421 00:37:09,176 --> 00:37:12,029 They found a workaround for the winter conditions 422 00:37:12,063 --> 00:37:14,098 and food here will be abundant. 423 00:37:43,594 --> 00:37:46,197 (bird calls) 424 00:37:48,649 --> 00:37:50,301 The bobcat isn't so lucky, 425 00:38:04,248 --> 00:38:06,384 the pangs of hunger are overwhelming 426 00:38:08,269 --> 00:38:10,454 and he is in desperate search of food. 427 00:38:11,789 --> 00:38:14,392 (dramatic music) 428 00:38:29,123 --> 00:38:31,309 At this point, he'll settle for anything. 429 00:38:40,618 --> 00:38:41,485 It's all or nothing. 430 00:38:45,706 --> 00:38:47,291 The time to strike is now. 431 00:39:21,809 --> 00:39:24,228 Finally, the bobcat has his dinner. 432 00:39:32,186 --> 00:39:33,971 His chances of surviving the winter 433 00:39:34,004 --> 00:39:35,439 just got a little better. 434 00:39:47,068 --> 00:39:49,370 Yellowstone in winter is iconic. 435 00:39:54,508 --> 00:39:55,459 A world of ice, 436 00:39:58,579 --> 00:39:59,363 and fire. 437 00:40:05,035 --> 00:40:06,303 A world where every creature 438 00:40:06,337 --> 00:40:09,023 fights their own battle every single day. 439 00:40:15,413 --> 00:40:17,415 (wolf calls) 440 00:40:20,184 --> 00:40:22,253 But if not for the pioneers who made 441 00:40:22,286 --> 00:40:25,339 the decision to protect this place 150 years ago, 442 00:40:27,875 --> 00:40:29,493 we'd never know that it even existed. 443 00:40:41,806 --> 00:40:43,390 You know, I don't know 444 00:40:43,424 --> 00:40:45,209 if there's another place on Earth that gives you 445 00:40:45,242 --> 00:40:47,111 the evocative spectacle of nature 446 00:40:47,144 --> 00:40:48,546 that Yellowstone does in the snow. 447 00:40:51,132 --> 00:40:53,250 And being here, seeing it firsthand, 448 00:40:54,752 --> 00:40:56,303 makes me wonder what if, 449 00:40:57,455 --> 00:41:00,458 what if Hayden and his team never came here? 450 00:41:02,176 --> 00:41:03,844 What if they'd been delayed a year 451 00:41:03,878 --> 00:41:06,213 and people had set up gold mines? 452 00:41:10,267 --> 00:41:13,504 What if their plan to protect this place didn't work? 453 00:41:14,972 --> 00:41:16,474 And the truth was, it almost didn't. 454 00:41:18,209 --> 00:41:20,478 There was a photographer named Anton Sean Burn. 455 00:41:25,065 --> 00:41:26,233 He was part of the expedition 456 00:41:26,267 --> 00:41:28,519 and he was a big part of Hayden's plan. 457 00:41:30,037 --> 00:41:32,022 He took all the notes they were gonna use 458 00:41:32,056 --> 00:41:34,375 to create the maps that they were gonna present 459 00:41:34,408 --> 00:41:38,779 to Congress and those maps were gonna be crucial 460 00:41:38,812 --> 00:41:40,297 in getting Yellowstone protected, 461 00:41:41,298 --> 00:41:43,317 then just days before he was gonna meet, 462 00:41:44,468 --> 00:41:48,439 meet Hayden in Washington DC, he killed himself. 463 00:41:49,840 --> 00:41:51,909 Turns out that six days earlier 464 00:41:51,942 --> 00:41:54,628 the great Chicago fire had destroyed 465 00:41:54,662 --> 00:41:58,082 a huge amount of the data collected on the expedition. 466 00:41:59,867 --> 00:42:00,968 It was tragic, of course, 467 00:42:01,001 --> 00:42:04,688 but it was a disaster for Hayden, 468 00:42:04,722 --> 00:42:06,257 and he needed to act fast. 469 00:42:09,260 --> 00:42:12,096 Hayden knew that a watershed moment was upon him. 470 00:42:13,214 --> 00:42:15,266 He knew that the wolves were at the gates 471 00:42:15,299 --> 00:42:18,319 and the snow was the only thing keeping them out. 472 00:42:20,588 --> 00:42:22,289 For when spring arrived, 473 00:42:22,323 --> 00:42:25,092 the destruction of Yellowstone would begin in force. 474 00:42:34,184 --> 00:42:36,453 The vandals who are waiting to enter this wonderland 475 00:42:36,487 --> 00:42:39,757 will in a single season be spoiled beyond recovery 476 00:42:39,790 --> 00:42:41,492 these remarkable curiosities, 477 00:42:43,010 --> 00:42:44,428 which have required all the cunning skill 478 00:42:44,461 --> 00:42:47,281 of nature of thousands of years to prepare. 479 00:42:52,286 --> 00:42:55,356 With that said, Hayden cast the first stone 480 00:42:55,389 --> 00:42:57,508 to protect the land that he'd grown to love. 481 00:43:14,275 --> 00:43:16,010 You know, Hayden predicted they would come 482 00:43:16,043 --> 00:43:19,880 in droves to destroy this place once the winter 483 00:43:19,913 --> 00:43:21,432 released the land from its clutches. 484 00:43:22,349 --> 00:43:26,770 His words, not mine, but boy was he right. 485 00:43:26,804 --> 00:43:30,274 Spring finally came in 1872, 486 00:43:31,692 --> 00:43:33,344 and one after another, 487 00:43:33,377 --> 00:43:35,879 the profiteers started filing their claims, 488 00:43:35,913 --> 00:43:38,415 100, 150, 200 acres at a time. 489 00:43:40,000 --> 00:43:42,169 The claims poured into the public land office. 490 00:43:43,304 --> 00:43:47,324 Everything from gold to silver to medicinal spring water. 491 00:43:47,358 --> 00:43:51,061 Every damn thing we've seen had a claim filed on it. 492 00:43:52,946 --> 00:43:54,431 And the miracle of it all was 493 00:43:54,465 --> 00:43:58,319 that every single claim that was filed that year, 494 00:43:59,803 --> 00:44:01,288 every single one was denied. 495 00:44:05,893 --> 00:44:07,461 Because you see, eight days earlier, 496 00:44:07,494 --> 00:44:11,432 President Ulysses S. Grant signed Hayden's bill into law. 497 00:44:12,983 --> 00:44:14,918 The National Park system was created 498 00:44:14,952 --> 00:44:17,154 just in the nick of time, 499 00:44:18,255 --> 00:44:22,026 and Yellowstone was saved by eight days. 500 00:44:24,728 --> 00:44:25,863 You know, that's not a fairytale. 501 00:44:25,896 --> 00:44:28,949 It's not a Hollywood ending, 502 00:44:28,982 --> 00:44:31,035 it's just how close it all was to going. 503 00:44:32,553 --> 00:44:35,472 No one alive today would even know this land even existed. 504 00:44:39,143 --> 00:44:40,511 Thank God for that snow, huh? 505 00:44:41,645 --> 00:44:44,164 (light music) 506 00:44:49,870 --> 00:45:00,029 - Let's go, pal.