1 00:00:00,759 --> 00:00:03,859 (tense upbeat music) (crowd chattering) 2 00:00:03,959 --> 00:00:06,899 - [Reporter] New York Fashion Week is now in full swing, 3 00:00:06,999 --> 00:00:10,500 a time when who you wear matters as much as what you wear. 4 00:00:10,600 --> 00:00:13,940 - This is a huge to-do here in New York City, twice a year. 5 00:00:14,040 --> 00:00:15,580 It's when all of the top designers 6 00:00:15,680 --> 00:00:18,461 preview their upcoming collections. 7 00:00:18,561 --> 00:00:19,781 Great parties. 8 00:00:19,881 --> 00:00:21,661 On any given day you'll see celebrities, 9 00:00:21,761 --> 00:00:24,021 socialites, supermodels. 10 00:00:24,121 --> 00:00:25,662 - It's Fashion Week in New York, 11 00:00:25,762 --> 00:00:27,742 and CNN's Gail O'Neil has been braving the crowds. 12 00:00:27,842 --> 00:00:28,662 Morning, Gail. 13 00:00:28,762 --> 00:00:29,462 - Morning, Carol. 14 00:00:29,562 --> 00:00:31,422 I'll tell you, this is the biggest media crush 15 00:00:31,522 --> 00:00:33,903 I've seen so far, and it's all over maternity wear. 16 00:00:34,003 --> 00:00:35,743 - It was going to be the first-ever 17 00:00:35,843 --> 00:00:37,863 maternity clothing fashion show 18 00:00:37,963 --> 00:00:39,823 during New York's Fashion Week, so that was a big deal. 19 00:00:39,923 --> 00:00:42,104 - Here we have the designer, Liz Lange, herself, 20 00:00:42,204 --> 00:00:43,224 and several of her models, 21 00:00:43,324 --> 00:00:46,664 who you can see are actually with child, very pregnant. 22 00:00:46,764 --> 00:00:48,224 - Why would a woman wanna take a year off 23 00:00:48,324 --> 00:00:51,085 of looking fashionable, feeling pretty, feeling great? 24 00:00:52,645 --> 00:00:54,345 The show starts, you're backstage, 25 00:00:54,445 --> 00:00:55,825 you're kind of peeking through the curtain. 26 00:00:55,925 --> 00:00:56,945 You're watching the show, 27 00:00:57,045 --> 00:00:59,425 you're watching the audience reaction. 28 00:00:59,525 --> 00:01:04,146 And halfway through the show, I saw that the CNN cameras 29 00:01:04,246 --> 00:01:07,526 were kind of running out of the tent mid-show. 30 00:01:09,287 --> 00:01:13,427 I'd say within 10 minutes of walking out of my show 31 00:01:13,527 --> 00:01:14,867 that the world had changed. 32 00:01:14,967 --> 00:01:15,907 - We're gonna go live right now 33 00:01:16,007 --> 00:01:19,268 and show you a picture of the World Trade Center, 34 00:01:19,368 --> 00:01:21,028 where I understand... 35 00:01:21,128 --> 00:01:23,128 Do we have it? 36 00:01:23,488 --> 00:01:24,868 - [Reporter] We have a breaking news story 37 00:01:24,968 --> 00:01:25,708 to tell you about. 38 00:01:25,808 --> 00:01:28,069 Apparently, a plane has just crashed 39 00:01:28,169 --> 00:01:30,349 into the World Trade Center here in New York City. 40 00:01:30,449 --> 00:01:33,989 It happened just a few moments ago. 41 00:01:34,089 --> 00:01:35,870 - [Eyewitness] It's quite terrifying. 42 00:01:35,970 --> 00:01:37,030 I'm in shock right now. 43 00:01:37,130 --> 00:01:40,610 I came out of the subway and I saw a big ball of fire. 44 00:01:44,211 --> 00:01:46,871 - I thought the building was gonna topple over, 45 00:01:46,971 --> 00:01:47,711 and I don't know what it was. 46 00:01:47,811 --> 00:01:48,591 What was it? A bomb? 47 00:01:48,691 --> 00:01:50,311 - [Bystander] Somebody yelled, "The Chrysler Building," 48 00:01:50,411 --> 00:01:51,431 but it's fine. 49 00:01:51,531 --> 00:01:52,451 - [Reporter] Yves Saint Laurent party's 50 00:01:52,532 --> 00:01:53,752 supposed to be tonight with Tom Ford, 51 00:01:53,852 --> 00:01:54,592 I'm sure he's gonna cancel. 52 00:01:54,692 --> 00:01:55,472 - Oh, absolutely. 53 00:01:55,572 --> 00:01:56,512 I mean, Giorgio Armani's 54 00:01:56,612 --> 00:01:57,332 canceled everything. - Are they here? 55 00:01:57,412 --> 00:01:58,952 Is Tom Ford in town now? Is he here? 56 00:01:59,052 --> 00:01:59,992 - [Bystander] Come this way. 57 00:02:00,092 --> 00:02:02,713 (bystander shrieking) 58 00:02:02,813 --> 00:02:04,273 - I remember thinking, 59 00:02:04,373 --> 00:02:06,473 "Why is anyone gonna want to wear a ballgown 60 00:02:06,573 --> 00:02:08,633 "or party dress again? 61 00:02:08,733 --> 00:02:11,354 "Why is anyone gonna want to read a fashion magazine 62 00:02:11,454 --> 00:02:12,314 "when they've gone through this? 63 00:02:12,414 --> 00:02:16,314 "Why does anyone care about clothes?" 64 00:02:16,414 --> 00:02:19,655 (gentle somber music) 65 00:02:21,695 --> 00:02:23,675 - There was a lull for a moment, 66 00:02:23,775 --> 00:02:27,075 but then, within a few months' time, 67 00:02:27,175 --> 00:02:30,756 people started to consume. 68 00:02:30,856 --> 00:02:34,436 It was almost like your patriotic duty to be a capitalist. 69 00:02:34,536 --> 00:02:38,137 (climatic dramatic music) 70 00:02:39,177 --> 00:02:42,577 (delicate pensive music) 71 00:02:45,338 --> 00:02:55,339 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 72 00:03:01,499 --> 00:03:06,760 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 73 00:03:06,860 --> 00:03:09,160 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 74 00:03:09,260 --> 00:03:11,761 ♪ Ah ♪ 75 00:03:11,861 --> 00:03:15,501 (dramatic thoughtful music) 76 00:03:30,063 --> 00:03:33,463 (delicate pensive music) 77 00:03:39,824 --> 00:03:44,824 (traffic whooshing) (tense thoughtful music) 78 00:03:53,465 --> 00:03:57,746 (tense thoughtful music continues) 79 00:04:06,267 --> 00:04:09,207 (audience cheering) (audience applauding) 80 00:04:09,307 --> 00:04:13,448 - Since John arrived we sell 50% more every six months, 81 00:04:13,548 --> 00:04:15,548 so I hope it will continue. 82 00:04:22,309 --> 00:04:25,469 (audience applauding) 83 00:04:28,909 --> 00:04:33,150 (tense thoughtful music continues) 84 00:04:40,551 --> 00:04:43,451 (tense thoughtful music continues) 85 00:04:43,551 --> 00:04:45,491 (flames whooshing) 86 00:04:45,591 --> 00:04:46,931 - When I signed with Gucci, 87 00:04:47,031 --> 00:04:48,892 I just continually just, like, 88 00:04:48,992 --> 00:04:51,612 pushed myself to get stronger, physically and mentally, 89 00:04:51,712 --> 00:04:53,712 and this is the outcome. 90 00:04:54,632 --> 00:04:58,873 (tense thoughtful music continues) 91 00:05:01,513 --> 00:05:05,033 (camera shutter clicking) 92 00:05:07,354 --> 00:05:09,654 - 10 minutes, then first looks. 93 00:05:09,754 --> 00:05:12,814 (people chattering) (gentle tense music) 94 00:05:12,914 --> 00:05:15,615 - [Bystander] Oh, gorgeous. Look at her. 95 00:05:15,715 --> 00:05:17,715 - Thank you. - Amazing. 96 00:05:18,595 --> 00:05:20,495 - I wanted really each one of these girls 97 00:05:20,595 --> 00:05:21,935 to look like candy, in a way. 98 00:05:22,035 --> 00:05:25,176 Something that was so beautiful, so tempting, 99 00:05:25,276 --> 00:05:29,096 you know, you really just wanted to just... (chomps teeth) 100 00:05:29,196 --> 00:05:33,937 (gentle tense music continues) (camera shutters whirring) 101 00:05:34,037 --> 00:05:37,257 Yellow and blue, and sugar pink and white, 102 00:05:37,357 --> 00:05:40,077 and things that really, you know, very candy colours. 103 00:05:41,558 --> 00:05:46,618 (audience cheering) (audience applauding) 104 00:05:46,718 --> 00:05:48,458 - The House of Gucci with Tom Ford 105 00:05:48,558 --> 00:05:50,259 is the winner in Milan for me at the moment. 106 00:05:50,359 --> 00:05:52,299 You cannot go wrong with Tom Ford. 107 00:05:52,399 --> 00:05:54,139 He is the buzzword, he's hot, 108 00:05:54,239 --> 00:05:56,299 he will be hot, he will continue to be hot, it is hot. 109 00:05:56,399 --> 00:05:57,979 The word hot is not appropriate. 110 00:05:58,079 --> 00:05:59,980 The word brilliant is appropriate. 111 00:06:00,080 --> 00:06:02,340 The word top is appropriate. 112 00:06:02,440 --> 00:06:05,160 He is the like the T Model Ford for Gucci. 113 00:06:07,200 --> 00:06:10,881 - Some of Tom's campaigns were the most controversial. 114 00:06:12,561 --> 00:06:14,541 - [Reporter] You shaved a G in a model's pubic hair. 115 00:06:14,641 --> 00:06:17,382 - I know, and I actually did shave the G 116 00:06:17,482 --> 00:06:19,102 in that girl's pubic hair myself. 117 00:06:19,202 --> 00:06:20,502 I wanted it exactly that way. 118 00:06:20,602 --> 00:06:22,862 I had to fill it in with an eyebrow pencil a little bit. 119 00:06:22,962 --> 00:06:25,863 - People were scandalised by this, but, you know, 120 00:06:25,963 --> 00:06:27,863 it's kind of the oldest trick in the book, right? 121 00:06:27,963 --> 00:06:31,643 Sex sells, and he was milking it, you know, to the max. 122 00:06:33,363 --> 00:06:36,344 (tense thoughtful music continues) 123 00:06:36,444 --> 00:06:38,444 - It wasn't porn. 124 00:06:38,964 --> 00:06:42,024 But it was just racy enough to titillate 125 00:06:42,124 --> 00:06:44,245 without being vulgar. 126 00:06:45,845 --> 00:06:49,905 - It was a commentary on where we were with branding. 127 00:06:50,005 --> 00:06:53,306 We had pushed branding to the absolute limit. 128 00:06:53,406 --> 00:06:54,546 Everything was branded. 129 00:06:54,646 --> 00:06:56,546 So why not, you know, 130 00:06:56,646 --> 00:06:58,946 a guy branding his girlfriend's public hair? 131 00:06:59,046 --> 00:07:02,887 (suspenseful dramatic music) 132 00:07:04,527 --> 00:07:08,848 - The power of icon, the emoji of its time. 133 00:07:09,968 --> 00:07:13,548 Logomania was part of the democratisation of fashion. 134 00:07:13,648 --> 00:07:14,788 You needed something 135 00:07:14,888 --> 00:07:17,989 that was instantly recognisable as what it was 136 00:07:18,089 --> 00:07:20,989 for the people that were buying into your ethos 137 00:07:21,089 --> 00:07:23,149 so that they had something that their friends 138 00:07:23,249 --> 00:07:25,649 would instantly be able to identify. 139 00:07:28,370 --> 00:07:33,370 - The frenzy for these logos, fuelled by celebrities. 140 00:07:35,291 --> 00:07:40,391 The billboards, the magazine ads, the commercials, 141 00:07:40,491 --> 00:07:45,492 the placement in movies, the logo-heavy marketing, 142 00:07:47,052 --> 00:07:50,192 switched the reason that everyone had purchased 143 00:07:50,292 --> 00:07:53,073 these products in the first place, 144 00:07:53,173 --> 00:07:58,173 from what they were, beautiful, hand-crafted, luxury items, 145 00:07:58,933 --> 00:08:01,634 rare, special, 146 00:08:01,734 --> 00:08:03,734 to that the represented, 147 00:08:04,414 --> 00:08:07,534 wealth, success, power. 148 00:08:08,814 --> 00:08:11,035 - That is the genius of the people 149 00:08:11,135 --> 00:08:13,935 who are at the head of these conglomerates. 150 00:08:15,375 --> 00:08:18,055 They are magicians, they magic desire. 151 00:08:27,496 --> 00:08:29,677 - You weren't buying a Louis Vuitton bag, 152 00:08:29,777 --> 00:08:33,057 you were buying the Louis Vuitton marketing message. 153 00:08:34,737 --> 00:08:38,398 And it has the logo on it, it's shouting the brand. 154 00:08:40,138 --> 00:08:42,118 - You'd pull out that lipstick and put it on, 155 00:08:42,218 --> 00:08:43,718 and there was a logo on the lipstick. 156 00:08:43,818 --> 00:08:46,479 So it looked like you could afford the dream, 157 00:08:46,579 --> 00:08:48,819 but you just had a little piece of the dream. 158 00:08:49,939 --> 00:08:53,199 You couldn't afford the couture gown, 159 00:08:53,299 --> 00:08:57,780 that had 100 hours of embroidery and cost $120,000, 160 00:08:59,420 --> 00:09:02,700 but you could get the lipstick for $35 in the duty-free. 161 00:09:04,101 --> 00:09:06,521 - It's easy for us to become consumed, in a sense, 162 00:09:06,621 --> 00:09:07,681 by materialism. 163 00:09:07,781 --> 00:09:09,041 Now, materialism is fine. 164 00:09:09,141 --> 00:09:10,401 We live in a material world. 165 00:09:10,501 --> 00:09:11,762 I'm not saying that beautiful things 166 00:09:11,862 --> 00:09:14,042 don't enhance our lives. 167 00:09:14,142 --> 00:09:16,402 But in our culture, we're never happy. 168 00:09:16,502 --> 00:09:18,442 It's, "When I get here I'm gonna be happy, 169 00:09:18,542 --> 00:09:20,322 "when I have those new shoes, when I go to that new party, 170 00:09:20,422 --> 00:09:22,603 "when I get that country house, when I get that new job." 171 00:09:22,703 --> 00:09:24,083 You know, we will never be fulfilled 172 00:09:24,183 --> 00:09:26,643 because this will continue until the day we die. 173 00:09:26,743 --> 00:09:27,643 - And you are to blame! 174 00:09:27,743 --> 00:09:30,284 - But, no, it's bigger than that. 175 00:09:30,384 --> 00:09:32,004 It is our entire culture. 176 00:09:32,104 --> 00:09:34,764 Of course, I was a part of it. We're all a part of it. 177 00:09:34,864 --> 00:09:39,865 (delicate upbeat music) (sewing machine rattles) 178 00:09:47,666 --> 00:09:49,086 - [Jeanne] Hi! 179 00:09:49,186 --> 00:09:52,086 How gorgeous have you become? 180 00:09:52,186 --> 00:09:54,606 Look at you! I can't stop looking at you. 181 00:09:54,706 --> 00:09:58,127 Oh, God! That's very fabulous, to see you like this. 182 00:09:58,227 --> 00:09:59,607 This new incarnation. 183 00:09:59,707 --> 00:10:01,327 Sort of the new and improved McQueen. 184 00:10:01,427 --> 00:10:03,207 - I had to become stronger myself 185 00:10:03,307 --> 00:10:07,368 and strong physically for Paris 186 00:10:07,468 --> 00:10:10,328 because I realised I was gonna show here for good, 187 00:10:10,428 --> 00:10:13,088 and I was gonna be competing with the big league. 188 00:10:13,188 --> 00:10:16,009 And mentally and physically, you have to be strong for this. 189 00:10:16,109 --> 00:10:19,709 (gentle thoughtful music) 190 00:10:21,989 --> 00:10:24,650 - At Gucci I think they gave him 191 00:10:24,750 --> 00:10:28,290 what he wasn't getting at LVMH. 192 00:10:28,390 --> 00:10:31,131 He got healthier and happier 193 00:10:31,231 --> 00:10:35,611 when he could focus back, entirely, 100% on his own brand. 194 00:10:35,711 --> 00:10:40,092 (audience cheering) (audience applauding) 195 00:10:40,192 --> 00:10:41,372 - Didn't he look great? 196 00:10:41,472 --> 00:10:42,612 I said, "I am so fed up" 197 00:10:42,712 --> 00:10:44,132 "with seeing these tracksuits and things. 198 00:10:44,232 --> 00:10:45,892 "Show us the tailoring in the show, 199 00:10:45,992 --> 00:10:48,413 "and let's see you looking sexy too." 200 00:10:48,513 --> 00:10:50,513 He's gone slightly Tom Ford. 201 00:10:52,353 --> 00:10:55,373 - Alexander McQueen really looked up to Tom Ford, 202 00:10:55,473 --> 00:10:59,854 and he idolised him as kind of the model of the designer 203 00:10:59,954 --> 00:11:02,114 and the man that he wanted to be. 204 00:11:03,154 --> 00:11:06,295 He would start dressing like him and acting like him, 205 00:11:06,395 --> 00:11:07,735 and eating like him. 206 00:11:07,835 --> 00:11:09,775 And so it was a way for him 207 00:11:09,875 --> 00:11:13,535 to kind of move himself into a different level, 208 00:11:13,635 --> 00:11:15,636 a different firmament. 209 00:11:16,196 --> 00:11:18,736 - He wanted more acknowledgment, 210 00:11:18,836 --> 00:11:22,236 and he got it from Tom and Mr. De Sole. 211 00:11:23,877 --> 00:11:25,617 - I know he adored his mother, 212 00:11:25,717 --> 00:11:29,937 and I would made a point, she was leaving Scotland, 213 00:11:30,037 --> 00:11:32,257 to send my driver to pick her up 214 00:11:32,357 --> 00:11:33,938 and take her to the fashion show, 215 00:11:34,038 --> 00:11:35,618 and invite her to the dinner, 216 00:11:35,718 --> 00:11:38,638 just to be attentive and show that I really care. 217 00:11:40,038 --> 00:11:43,639 (gentle thoughtful music) 218 00:11:47,839 --> 00:11:50,740 - It was time to renegotiate their contracts, 219 00:11:50,840 --> 00:11:52,620 and Dom and Tom did not wanna give up 220 00:11:52,720 --> 00:11:55,780 the power that they had earned 221 00:11:55,880 --> 00:11:58,861 by turning Gucci from a nearly bankrupt company 222 00:11:58,961 --> 00:12:02,221 into a global conglomerate. 223 00:12:02,321 --> 00:12:03,941 - [Reporter] There's been some rumours 224 00:12:04,041 --> 00:12:06,181 about you and Domenico. 225 00:12:06,281 --> 00:12:08,662 - You know, rumours are always rumours. 226 00:12:08,762 --> 00:12:10,422 It is true that both my 227 00:12:10,522 --> 00:12:13,422 and Domenico's contracts are up next year in 2004. 228 00:12:13,522 --> 00:12:15,422 Both of us have worked so hard 229 00:12:15,522 --> 00:12:17,583 over the last 10 years to build this company. 230 00:12:17,683 --> 00:12:21,063 We have an enormous emotional attachment to it. 231 00:12:21,163 --> 00:12:25,644 And I can't imagine leaving it, so those are just rumours. 232 00:12:26,844 --> 00:12:28,504 - Tom and I felt it was our company. 233 00:12:28,604 --> 00:12:30,904 In our mind, that's our company. 234 00:12:31,004 --> 00:12:32,144 Though we didn't own it, 235 00:12:32,244 --> 00:12:35,025 and we respect the fact that you had to generate success 236 00:12:35,125 --> 00:12:37,625 and dividends, et cetera, for the shareholders, 237 00:12:37,725 --> 00:12:39,725 but we owned the company. 238 00:13:01,288 --> 00:13:06,288 (audience applauding) (gentle somber music) 239 00:13:16,289 --> 00:13:19,030 - It was a very emotional moment, I remember. 240 00:13:19,130 --> 00:13:20,230 I never cried in my life, 241 00:13:20,330 --> 00:13:21,590 even when my parents died, I didn't cry. 242 00:13:21,690 --> 00:13:24,270 But I did cry telling the senior people 243 00:13:24,370 --> 00:13:26,230 of the company I was leaving. 244 00:13:26,330 --> 00:13:29,271 (audience applauding) 245 00:13:38,852 --> 00:13:41,712 (gentle somber music continues) 246 00:13:41,812 --> 00:13:45,053 (audience applauding) 247 00:13:54,654 --> 00:13:57,074 - You know, it's Monsieur Pinault's company, 248 00:13:57,174 --> 00:13:59,354 and obviously, there were differences, 249 00:13:59,454 --> 00:14:02,855 and we just have to all move on, as I'm sure Tom is. 250 00:14:08,215 --> 00:14:11,716 - I remember the press saying, "Gucci's dead. 251 00:14:11,816 --> 00:14:14,216 "Gucci without Tom Ford cannot be Gucci." 252 00:14:18,176 --> 00:14:22,157 I also remember thinking, "Maybe the word Gucci 253 00:14:22,257 --> 00:14:25,297 "is still more powerful than the word Tom Ford." 254 00:14:28,458 --> 00:14:32,118 - At the end of the day, because they had succeeded so well, 255 00:14:32,218 --> 00:14:35,778 the superstar was Gucci, not just Tom Ford. 256 00:14:37,259 --> 00:14:38,479 - I all of a sudden felt lost. 257 00:14:38,579 --> 00:14:40,359 I thought, "Well, what do I contribute to the world?" 258 00:14:40,459 --> 00:14:41,959 You know, "What am I doing? 259 00:14:42,059 --> 00:14:43,599 "Who am I? What is this?" 260 00:14:43,699 --> 00:14:46,440 Because I had worked so hard for so long 261 00:14:46,540 --> 00:14:49,160 and I didn't really realise how it would feel 262 00:14:49,260 --> 00:14:51,760 when I no longer had that platform or that voice. 263 00:14:51,860 --> 00:14:53,860 I felt quite lost. 264 00:14:56,541 --> 00:15:00,361 - He said his 40s the entire decade was an absolute waste of decade for him 265 00:15:00,461 --> 00:15:02,461 It completely threw him. 266 00:15:03,181 --> 00:15:05,182 Everything that he'd been doing 267 00:15:05,702 --> 00:15:08,002 once the cork was out of the bottle 268 00:15:08,102 --> 00:15:13,103 just exploded into his private life and swallowed him whole. 269 00:15:13,503 --> 00:15:16,923 (gentle thoughtful music) 270 00:15:17,023 --> 00:15:19,143 - Alexander McQueen was bereft. 271 00:15:22,144 --> 00:15:23,604 He had lost his mentor 272 00:15:23,704 --> 00:15:27,924 and there was a new era in place at Gucci 273 00:15:28,024 --> 00:15:30,785 where the brand was going to be dominant. 274 00:15:35,905 --> 00:15:39,686 - The Gucci Group sent in all little men in black suits 275 00:15:39,786 --> 00:15:42,206 and black ties and white shirts, 276 00:15:42,306 --> 00:15:44,926 coming in and watching us all work 277 00:15:45,026 --> 00:15:47,467 and trying to dictate things to us. 278 00:15:49,027 --> 00:15:52,327 - He hated the idea that there was a group called Gucci 279 00:15:52,427 --> 00:15:55,887 that could tell him, "No, you won't have 280 00:15:55,987 --> 00:15:57,568 "this budget or that budget. 281 00:15:57,668 --> 00:15:59,748 "Yes, you can do this but not that." 282 00:16:00,828 --> 00:16:04,308 (tense thoughtful music) 283 00:16:08,469 --> 00:16:11,249 - [Alexander] It can be really lonely. 284 00:16:11,349 --> 00:16:16,490 And I think there's more to life than fashion 285 00:16:16,590 --> 00:16:18,690 and I don't wanna be stuck in that bubble 286 00:16:18,790 --> 00:16:19,890 of this is what I do. 287 00:16:19,990 --> 00:16:21,650 Because everyone in the office, 288 00:16:21,750 --> 00:16:24,051 they go home and they can shut off, 289 00:16:24,151 --> 00:16:26,831 but I'm still Alexander McQueen after I shut the door. 290 00:16:32,512 --> 00:16:35,692 - You have these incredibly creative people, 291 00:16:35,792 --> 00:16:37,692 you know, like Galliano and McQueen, 292 00:16:37,792 --> 00:16:41,013 who had staged these kind of very theatrical shows 293 00:16:41,113 --> 00:16:43,613 that felt like theatre to perform in, 294 00:16:43,713 --> 00:16:48,353 inside an industry that is so demanding of them. 295 00:16:53,434 --> 00:16:55,654 You would never take an artist 296 00:16:55,754 --> 00:16:58,815 and force them to make 14 shows in a year, 297 00:16:58,915 --> 00:17:01,175 and expect all those shows to be brilliant, 298 00:17:01,275 --> 00:17:04,015 and expect them to kind of have the creative inspiration 299 00:17:04,115 --> 00:17:07,016 and juice to just keep producing, almost like a machine. 300 00:17:07,116 --> 00:17:09,816 (audience applauding) 301 00:17:09,916 --> 00:17:13,756 - [John] Along with all the successes came more collections. 302 00:17:16,077 --> 00:17:21,077 At that moment, I was producing 32 collections a year 303 00:17:21,637 --> 00:17:24,418 between the House of Galliano and the House of Dior, 304 00:17:24,518 --> 00:17:27,058 and each collection would comprise 305 00:17:27,158 --> 00:17:29,158 of up to 1,000 pieces. 306 00:17:30,838 --> 00:17:33,079 The drinking did creep up on me. 307 00:17:34,599 --> 00:17:38,739 - He started to take longer and longer and longer 308 00:17:38,839 --> 00:17:43,180 to get into a state where he was remotely presentable 309 00:17:43,280 --> 00:17:46,660 to anyone else, 'cause he was so out of it. 310 00:17:46,760 --> 00:17:47,900 - Do you want me to stop? 311 00:17:48,000 --> 00:17:48,940 - [Reporter] No, I don't care. 312 00:17:49,040 --> 00:17:52,581 It's for you. It's your image. (laughs) 313 00:17:52,681 --> 00:17:56,821 - It's tarnished, you can't change it! (laughing) 314 00:17:56,921 --> 00:17:59,022 After I had my last toboggan ride 315 00:17:59,122 --> 00:18:01,302 down the great Chinese Wall, 316 00:18:01,402 --> 00:18:05,342 and there I was and arrived at McDonald's. 317 00:18:05,442 --> 00:18:08,703 I mean, there you go, that was the collection. (laughing) 318 00:18:08,803 --> 00:18:12,023 Joe DiMaggio and where was Marilyn? 319 00:18:12,123 --> 00:18:14,123 In rubber. 320 00:18:15,763 --> 00:18:18,104 - [Reporter] Would you say that it takes a lot of courage 321 00:18:18,204 --> 00:18:21,544 to give an artist such a free artistic reign? 322 00:18:21,644 --> 00:18:24,744 - Yes, it's courage but also we have some reward, huh? 323 00:18:24,844 --> 00:18:27,585 Because sales of Christian Dior since he arrived 324 00:18:27,685 --> 00:18:30,465 have been multiplied by six. 325 00:18:30,565 --> 00:18:33,225 So it's quite good, don't you think? 326 00:18:33,325 --> 00:18:34,826 (suspenseful music) 327 00:18:34,926 --> 00:18:37,426 - There was a total fear of Bernard Arnault 328 00:18:37,526 --> 00:18:40,046 and anyone putting a foot wrong in front of him. 329 00:18:42,166 --> 00:18:43,467 You know, maybe John was scared 330 00:18:43,567 --> 00:18:45,827 that this man could just erase 331 00:18:45,927 --> 00:18:47,387 all the success that he's had. 332 00:18:47,487 --> 00:18:48,947 And he's at the height of his career, 333 00:18:49,047 --> 00:18:51,047 it's just so far to fall. 334 00:18:54,448 --> 00:18:55,668 - [Jeanne] When we think of John 335 00:18:55,768 --> 00:18:57,268 and the incredible things that he's done 336 00:18:57,368 --> 00:18:58,948 for the image of the House of Dior, 337 00:18:59,048 --> 00:19:01,309 it seems to us that he must have carte blanche 338 00:19:01,409 --> 00:19:03,189 as a designer, artistically. 339 00:19:03,289 --> 00:19:05,269 - Absolutely, yes. Absolutely carte blanche. 340 00:19:05,369 --> 00:19:07,309 - [Jeanne] So you let him run with the ball 341 00:19:07,409 --> 00:19:08,109 in any direction? 342 00:19:08,209 --> 00:19:11,390 - As long as the business is going how it is going. 343 00:19:11,490 --> 00:19:14,590 The business is booming, so, yes, carte blanche. 344 00:19:14,690 --> 00:19:15,910 (audience cheering) 345 00:19:16,010 --> 00:19:18,271 - [Bystander] Go, Johnny, go! 346 00:19:18,371 --> 00:19:20,191 Mind your ego! 347 00:19:20,291 --> 00:19:24,611 - His image became more and more extravagant, 348 00:19:27,012 --> 00:19:30,792 to the point where, often, he would come out, 349 00:19:30,892 --> 00:19:34,152 after his shows, with a full look. 350 00:19:34,252 --> 00:19:38,753 (audience applauding) (audience cheering) 351 00:19:38,853 --> 00:19:40,073 - [John] If you're gonna do something 352 00:19:40,173 --> 00:19:42,353 I just think you have to go all out for it, 353 00:19:42,453 --> 00:19:43,953 otherwise just don't bother. 354 00:19:44,053 --> 00:19:44,794 Do you know what I mean? 355 00:19:44,894 --> 00:19:47,234 It's something that, if you believe in something, 356 00:19:47,334 --> 00:19:49,334 you have to do it to the end. 357 00:19:50,654 --> 00:19:54,255 (climatic dramatic music) 358 00:19:58,215 --> 00:20:00,035 (camera shutter clicks) 359 00:20:00,135 --> 00:20:02,236 - How do you deal with pressure, and stress, 360 00:20:02,336 --> 00:20:03,236 and all that, before a show? 361 00:20:03,336 --> 00:20:05,196 Or do you get stressed and feel under pressure? 362 00:20:05,296 --> 00:20:07,076 - I take Calgon baths. 363 00:20:07,176 --> 00:20:08,996 No, I'm joking. It was a joke. 364 00:20:09,096 --> 00:20:10,756 (both laughing) 365 00:20:10,856 --> 00:20:12,357 I don't deal with pressure too well. 366 00:20:12,457 --> 00:20:16,557 I go off my diet, I smoke twice as many cigarettes, 367 00:20:16,657 --> 00:20:20,038 and I sometimes get a little angry or rude. 368 00:20:20,138 --> 00:20:23,678 But I don't think I deal with it so well. 369 00:20:23,778 --> 00:20:27,258 (tense suspenseful music) 370 00:20:28,298 --> 00:20:31,219 (crowd chattering) 371 00:20:37,980 --> 00:20:40,040 - He was a little bit. 372 00:20:40,140 --> 00:20:43,860 Marc was getting a little bit out of control there. 373 00:20:45,820 --> 00:20:47,881 In hindsight, you see the psychology twist, 374 00:20:47,981 --> 00:20:51,441 and you see the shows becoming more and more, 375 00:20:51,541 --> 00:20:55,522 not frantic, but confrontational. 376 00:20:55,622 --> 00:21:00,622 (crowd booing) (crowd hissing) 377 00:21:06,983 --> 00:21:10,923 It was a fairly major moment, I think, for Marc, 378 00:21:11,023 --> 00:21:12,764 for his show to run two hours late 379 00:21:12,864 --> 00:21:15,364 and to have that audience waiting for it, 380 00:21:15,464 --> 00:21:18,964 people like Catherine Deneuve and Kanye West, 381 00:21:19,064 --> 00:21:20,684 and Sophia Coppola. 382 00:21:20,784 --> 00:21:23,345 (crowd chants) 383 00:21:25,145 --> 00:21:27,725 There was a little bit of a "fuck you" quality to it, 384 00:21:27,825 --> 00:21:29,825 I thought. 385 00:21:30,826 --> 00:21:32,646 Mr. Arnault, after sitting there 386 00:21:32,746 --> 00:21:37,606 for really a long, long time, he pecks at his phone, 387 00:21:37,706 --> 00:21:40,327 and then seconds later the lights come down 388 00:21:40,427 --> 00:21:42,007 and the show starts. 389 00:21:42,107 --> 00:21:45,647 (audience applauding) (audience yelling) 390 00:21:45,747 --> 00:21:49,008 (audience cheering) 391 00:21:49,108 --> 00:21:53,048 (tense suspenseful music continues) 392 00:21:53,148 --> 00:21:54,808 - I think when a designer 393 00:21:54,908 --> 00:21:59,909 expects his audience to wait two hours, 394 00:22:01,189 --> 00:22:05,750 unacceptable, ill-mannered, and totally arrogant. 395 00:22:06,590 --> 00:22:09,510 (audience booing) 396 00:22:11,950 --> 00:22:14,171 - All these people who need to rush home to their family, 397 00:22:14,271 --> 00:22:15,931 I say they shouldn't come to fashion shows. 398 00:22:16,031 --> 00:22:18,731 They should retire and stay home. Fuck them. 399 00:22:18,831 --> 00:22:21,591 I'm not afraid of anything. I'm shameless and fearless. 400 00:22:22,872 --> 00:22:23,772 - [Tim] I think what fashion 401 00:22:23,872 --> 00:22:25,732 was seeing across the board at this point 402 00:22:25,832 --> 00:22:29,852 is its wunderkinder acting up. 403 00:22:29,952 --> 00:22:33,013 - [Marc] The only opinion that matters about me is my own, 404 00:22:33,113 --> 00:22:33,973 and that's it. 405 00:22:34,073 --> 00:22:36,753 - They'd been so indulged for so long 406 00:22:37,673 --> 00:22:40,794 that everything had become a little bit screwy. 407 00:22:43,074 --> 00:22:45,974 (tense suspenseful music) 408 00:22:46,074 --> 00:22:49,155 You did feel a reckoning coming. 409 00:22:50,355 --> 00:22:53,035 Fashion was kind of capturing something in the air. 410 00:22:55,995 --> 00:23:00,616 (tense suspenseful music continues) 411 00:23:18,398 --> 00:23:21,938 (gentle delicate music) 412 00:23:22,038 --> 00:23:24,899 - Stephen Robinson was John's right-hand man. 413 00:23:24,999 --> 00:23:27,139 That's how we knew him in the business, 414 00:23:27,239 --> 00:23:28,819 John's right-hand man. 415 00:23:28,919 --> 00:23:31,379 John was the one who would give you a smile 416 00:23:31,479 --> 00:23:33,700 and Stephen was the one that did not. 417 00:23:33,800 --> 00:23:37,680 It was this. And so you never knew if he liked you or not. 418 00:23:40,120 --> 00:23:41,500 - [John] Stephen was there right at the beginning, 419 00:23:41,600 --> 00:23:44,821 I mean, he came as a student placement, counting buttons, 420 00:23:44,921 --> 00:23:46,941 and then worked his way through, 421 00:23:47,041 --> 00:23:49,241 and then became my right-hand man. 422 00:23:52,922 --> 00:23:55,842 (group chattering) 423 00:23:58,242 --> 00:24:00,583 (models cheering) 424 00:24:00,683 --> 00:24:03,223 (audience chattering) 425 00:24:03,323 --> 00:24:06,163 (models cheering) 426 00:24:12,044 --> 00:24:13,784 (group applauding) 427 00:24:13,884 --> 00:24:15,664 Stephen and I started this adventure 428 00:24:15,764 --> 00:24:19,805 when things weren't working out, and Stephen believed in me. 429 00:24:21,005 --> 00:24:22,665 And together, we left London. 430 00:24:22,765 --> 00:24:23,985 Didn't have any money. 431 00:24:24,085 --> 00:24:25,786 I don't how we got to Paris, we did. 432 00:24:25,886 --> 00:24:27,306 And we slept on friends' floors. 433 00:24:27,406 --> 00:24:30,226 And as long as I could see the moonlight I was happy. 434 00:24:30,326 --> 00:24:34,026 - Stephen Robinson became a wall around John, right? 435 00:24:34,126 --> 00:24:37,587 So everything had to pass through Stephen to get to John. 436 00:24:37,687 --> 00:24:40,487 So John really lost contact with the outside world. 437 00:24:43,408 --> 00:24:46,688 (gentle ambient music) 438 00:24:48,128 --> 00:24:50,168 - Stephen took a lot of cocaine. 439 00:24:52,409 --> 00:24:55,649 So, one day, he went home for a vacation, 440 00:24:56,689 --> 00:25:00,389 he just, like, hoovered, hoovered up 441 00:25:00,489 --> 00:25:02,150 massive amounts of cocaine 442 00:25:02,250 --> 00:25:05,530 in a very short time by himself at home, 443 00:25:07,370 --> 00:25:11,051 and he suffered a massive heart attack and died. 444 00:25:13,091 --> 00:25:16,531 John was destroyed. 445 00:25:17,691 --> 00:25:20,932 (gentle somber music) 446 00:25:26,932 --> 00:25:30,153 - That kind of loss must have been devastating for him 447 00:25:30,253 --> 00:25:35,253 and it just must have been really difficult to process. 448 00:25:41,174 --> 00:25:45,375 The questions I would here people go, "Will he be okay? 449 00:25:48,255 --> 00:25:50,255 "Will he be able to design? 450 00:25:54,056 --> 00:25:55,796 - [Jeanne] How hard is it going on now 451 00:25:55,896 --> 00:25:57,896 without Stephen around? 452 00:25:59,856 --> 00:26:02,577 - Very. You know... 453 00:26:03,617 --> 00:26:06,557 Yeah, it's very, very hard. 454 00:26:06,657 --> 00:26:08,797 - I mean, we all saw the transition happening, 455 00:26:08,897 --> 00:26:13,898 and it was never nice to see him 456 00:26:15,178 --> 00:26:17,918 in this state of, you know, pain. 457 00:26:18,018 --> 00:26:19,718 Obviously, there was pain there. 458 00:26:19,818 --> 00:26:21,939 He lost someone that meant a lot to him. 459 00:26:25,539 --> 00:26:27,559 - I just remember Anna telling me, 460 00:26:27,659 --> 00:26:30,480 "I have a meeting with Mr. Arnault, 461 00:26:30,580 --> 00:26:34,240 "and he's basically asked me to come in 462 00:26:34,340 --> 00:26:38,741 "and talk to John about what he's doing." 463 00:26:40,581 --> 00:26:44,321 I just had this impression that any moment 464 00:26:44,421 --> 00:26:47,162 John might have gone off the rails. 465 00:26:47,262 --> 00:26:50,962 But rather than trying to control him internally, 466 00:26:51,062 --> 00:26:54,822 they would call Anna, and Anna would do whatever she does. 467 00:26:56,903 --> 00:27:00,423 (gentle thoughtful music) 468 00:27:07,504 --> 00:27:11,864 (gentle thoughtful music continues) 469 00:27:20,145 --> 00:27:21,045 - [Alexander] This world I live in, 470 00:27:21,145 --> 00:27:22,966 this fashion world I live in, 471 00:27:23,066 --> 00:27:25,886 it's so unrelated to what's going on around the world. 472 00:27:25,986 --> 00:27:27,926 So what I try to do is take parts of the world 473 00:27:28,026 --> 00:27:30,267 people don't wanna see and bring it to them. 474 00:27:33,187 --> 00:27:34,887 - When we walked in the auditorium 475 00:27:34,987 --> 00:27:37,867 was lit in this hellish red. 476 00:27:40,028 --> 00:27:45,028 Huge pile of rubbish from the detritus of his old shows. 477 00:27:46,268 --> 00:27:51,409 So it was a comment on waste, you could look at it that way. 478 00:27:51,509 --> 00:27:55,609 It was a comment on environmental degradation. 479 00:27:55,709 --> 00:27:58,830 (suspenseful music) 480 00:28:00,030 --> 00:28:02,370 - [Alexander] By nature, I'm a very melancholy person, 481 00:28:02,470 --> 00:28:06,531 so I like to see the good and also the bad in things 482 00:28:06,631 --> 00:28:08,631 because life is like that. 483 00:28:10,071 --> 00:28:13,171 I don't like to put like a smokescreen 484 00:28:13,271 --> 00:28:16,252 over everything you do to make the world a prettier place, 485 00:28:16,352 --> 00:28:18,352 because it's not. 486 00:28:22,592 --> 00:28:24,893 (waves whooshing) 487 00:28:24,993 --> 00:28:26,933 - [Reporter] Fashion is the second most 488 00:28:27,033 --> 00:28:28,853 polluting industry in the world, 489 00:28:28,953 --> 00:28:31,573 and people are buying massively more 490 00:28:31,673 --> 00:28:33,814 than they did 15 years ago. 491 00:28:33,914 --> 00:28:37,374 - Obviously, we're very aware, as other industries are, 492 00:28:37,474 --> 00:28:39,414 that we have been at fault, 493 00:28:39,514 --> 00:28:43,935 and what we can do in the relatively short amount of time 494 00:28:44,035 --> 00:28:45,895 we have to course correct. 495 00:28:45,995 --> 00:28:47,855 - [Reporter] So it's an urgency for you? 496 00:28:47,955 --> 00:28:50,876 - [Anna] It's an urgency for everybody within the industry. 497 00:28:52,716 --> 00:28:54,736 - I feel like he was often putting the fashion world 498 00:28:54,836 --> 00:28:57,916 in an uncomfortable position to confront itself. 499 00:29:00,437 --> 00:29:03,217 The fact that so much of fashion nowadays 500 00:29:03,317 --> 00:29:04,897 is thrown away, is disposable. 501 00:29:04,997 --> 00:29:05,857 3/4, they think, 502 00:29:05,957 --> 00:29:09,818 of the 80 to 100 billion garments made every year. 503 00:29:09,918 --> 00:29:12,178 So literally tens of billions of garments 504 00:29:12,278 --> 00:29:14,278 end up in landfill. 505 00:29:17,039 --> 00:29:19,979 Fast fashion is just a disposable attitude to fashion. 506 00:29:20,079 --> 00:29:22,139 It's an idea that fashion should be cheap 507 00:29:22,239 --> 00:29:24,600 and shouldn't last a long time. 508 00:29:26,200 --> 00:29:27,660 We should be buying and buying and buying a lot 509 00:29:27,760 --> 00:29:29,220 and that's why it's fast, right? 510 00:29:29,320 --> 00:29:31,600 Fast production, fast consumption, fast waste. 511 00:29:33,080 --> 00:29:35,341 - What the Pinault and the Arnault of the world 512 00:29:35,441 --> 00:29:37,901 created was desirability. 513 00:29:38,001 --> 00:29:40,661 By becoming so big and so powerful, 514 00:29:40,761 --> 00:29:43,342 they obtain more visibilities. 515 00:29:43,442 --> 00:29:45,302 And all the stores around the world 516 00:29:45,402 --> 00:29:49,262 and all those ads in the magazines around the world, 517 00:29:49,362 --> 00:29:52,643 created aspiration and desirability. 518 00:29:54,843 --> 00:29:57,843 The real problem is the level of consumption 519 00:29:58,883 --> 00:30:01,124 and that it's got out of control. 520 00:30:03,444 --> 00:30:08,445 If a pair of jeans costs less than a coffee, 521 00:30:09,725 --> 00:30:13,905 and so it's less costly to throw it away than to wash it, 522 00:30:14,005 --> 00:30:16,725 it's obviously not okay. 523 00:30:18,766 --> 00:30:20,926 But also, it's the human cost. 524 00:30:21,766 --> 00:30:22,986 It's the human right. 525 00:30:23,086 --> 00:30:24,626 - Six people are now under arrest 526 00:30:24,726 --> 00:30:26,147 in Bangladesh in connection 527 00:30:26,247 --> 00:30:28,187 with a building collapse on Wednesday 528 00:30:28,287 --> 00:30:30,987 that killed hundreds of garment workers. 529 00:30:31,087 --> 00:30:32,067 - [Reporter] On Tuesday, 530 00:30:32,167 --> 00:30:34,027 police inspected cracks in the building 531 00:30:34,127 --> 00:30:36,308 which housed five clothing manufacturers. 532 00:30:36,408 --> 00:30:39,408 Survivors say their bosses told them to keep working. 533 00:30:40,288 --> 00:30:43,268 - Most consumers, even though they claim that they care, 534 00:30:43,368 --> 00:30:45,589 it's something that is done over there. 535 00:30:45,689 --> 00:30:46,429 They never see it. 536 00:30:46,529 --> 00:30:49,509 If you ever go into a factory where sneakers are made 537 00:30:49,609 --> 00:30:51,589 and you see and smell the gasses 538 00:30:51,689 --> 00:30:53,910 that they emit from all the rubber 539 00:30:54,010 --> 00:30:56,310 and different machines they use to make a sneaker, 540 00:30:56,410 --> 00:30:58,590 you would never wear another pair of sneakers again. 541 00:31:00,570 --> 00:31:01,391 - [Reporter] Western retailers 542 00:31:01,491 --> 00:31:03,231 have openly criticised the factories 543 00:31:03,331 --> 00:31:06,971 for unsafe working conditions but continue to place orders. 544 00:31:09,131 --> 00:31:12,952 - In this last 30 years of growth of the luxury industry, 545 00:31:13,052 --> 00:31:14,872 it has now sacrificed humanity 546 00:31:14,972 --> 00:31:18,252 and the planet for the sake of profit. 547 00:31:19,733 --> 00:31:21,833 McQueen was disgusted by this, 548 00:31:21,933 --> 00:31:24,553 and he felt like he needed to make a statement about it. 549 00:31:24,653 --> 00:31:29,654 So he steps back and he just looks at how all this fashion, 550 00:31:30,014 --> 00:31:34,874 consumption, production, money, glitz, glamor, advertising, 551 00:31:34,974 --> 00:31:37,915 magazines, fashion shoots, stores, stores, stores, 552 00:31:38,015 --> 00:31:39,635 all this fits into the bigger picture 553 00:31:39,735 --> 00:31:41,935 that is the world today. 554 00:31:45,536 --> 00:31:48,956 - The creation was coming from inside his heart. 555 00:31:49,056 --> 00:31:54,057 So, probably, he visit some very sensitive areas. 556 00:31:55,417 --> 00:32:00,417 For sure, you get something ultra-emotional, for sure, 557 00:32:01,257 --> 00:32:03,298 and you get something quite unique. 558 00:32:06,058 --> 00:32:08,818 - What makes a great fashion designer? 559 00:32:10,618 --> 00:32:14,899 Someone with tremendous endurance and focus. 560 00:32:16,499 --> 00:32:20,160 You've gotta be very careful. You've gotta protect yourself. 561 00:32:20,260 --> 00:32:25,260 You've got to love what's at the core of the industry 562 00:32:25,620 --> 00:32:27,620 or it will kill you. 563 00:32:28,500 --> 00:32:31,961 And even then, it'll kill you. 564 00:32:32,061 --> 00:32:37,061 (audience applauding) (audience cheering) 565 00:32:45,102 --> 00:32:50,123 - You became a product with a huge pressure above your head 566 00:32:50,223 --> 00:32:55,223 from people expecting things from you, lot of collections. 567 00:32:55,824 --> 00:32:59,444 You sign paper, it's too late it's been signed, 568 00:32:59,544 --> 00:33:01,284 you are agreed. 569 00:33:01,384 --> 00:33:04,545 It's too late, you're trapped. 570 00:33:05,465 --> 00:33:10,225 And for a wild wolf like him, 571 00:33:11,105 --> 00:33:13,106 get trapped means death. 572 00:33:13,946 --> 00:33:18,406 (gentle somber music) (camera shutters whirring) 573 00:33:18,506 --> 00:33:19,926 (police radio chattering) 574 00:33:20,026 --> 00:33:20,886 - [Reporter] Alexander McQueen, 575 00:33:20,986 --> 00:33:22,167 the darling of British fashion, 576 00:33:22,267 --> 00:33:25,527 has been found dead after, apparently, committing suicide. 577 00:33:25,627 --> 00:33:27,007 Paramedics were called 578 00:33:27,107 --> 00:33:28,887 to the designer's London home this morning, 579 00:33:28,987 --> 00:33:31,188 but he was pronounced dead at the scene. 580 00:33:35,868 --> 00:33:39,949 - I think that he had had enough. 581 00:33:42,349 --> 00:33:45,129 And then his mother died, 582 00:33:45,229 --> 00:33:47,949 and I think it was all just enough. 583 00:33:50,430 --> 00:33:53,330 - The last time I saw him 584 00:33:53,430 --> 00:33:55,010 he just seemed in a really good mood that day, 585 00:33:55,110 --> 00:33:57,111 and that was the day before. 586 00:33:58,311 --> 00:34:02,451 And up until then, he was like a shadow of himself. 587 00:34:02,551 --> 00:34:04,451 And on that day, he just seemed like 588 00:34:04,551 --> 00:34:06,712 everything had been lifted for some reason. 589 00:34:08,192 --> 00:34:11,212 Maybe it was just the thought that, you know, 590 00:34:11,312 --> 00:34:13,312 it'll all be over soon. 591 00:34:15,673 --> 00:34:19,213 (camera shutters whirring) 592 00:34:19,313 --> 00:34:22,113 - I understood that loneliness, 593 00:34:25,754 --> 00:34:27,754 that pain. 594 00:34:29,714 --> 00:34:31,054 We're in such perfection, 595 00:34:31,154 --> 00:34:34,015 we're setting that bar impossibly high. 596 00:34:34,115 --> 00:34:35,335 We don't understand why we're doing it, 597 00:34:35,435 --> 00:34:37,175 and people say, "Wow, how are you gonna top that?" 598 00:34:37,275 --> 00:34:39,855 And we're like, "Yeah, we're going to. Don't worry. 599 00:34:39,955 --> 00:34:43,116 "That's what makes us wake up in the morning." 600 00:34:44,116 --> 00:34:46,116 I was very sad. 601 00:34:48,716 --> 00:34:52,317 (gentle orchestral music) 602 00:34:55,157 --> 00:35:00,078 - I think Galliano is really the incarnation of Dior today. 603 00:35:02,838 --> 00:35:03,938 And he's the reason why 604 00:35:04,038 --> 00:35:06,718 it fits so well with the House of Dior. 605 00:35:11,119 --> 00:35:13,979 - The way I look is usually the end of the creative process 606 00:35:14,079 --> 00:35:15,699 because I live it. 607 00:35:15,799 --> 00:35:17,140 I believe it. I become it. 608 00:35:17,240 --> 00:35:19,620 I'm drawn by candlelight. 609 00:35:19,720 --> 00:35:21,060 There's a narrative, 610 00:35:21,160 --> 00:35:24,220 the models are my silent movie actresses, 611 00:35:24,320 --> 00:35:26,021 the script is their clothes. 612 00:35:26,121 --> 00:35:27,221 - [Reporter] And do you think it's important 613 00:35:27,321 --> 00:35:29,721 for a brand like this to have such a showman? 614 00:35:31,081 --> 00:35:36,082 - I think the key of success, in a brand so famous as Dior, 615 00:35:37,642 --> 00:35:42,643 it's key to such level of creativity and inventiveness, yes. 616 00:35:43,323 --> 00:35:46,663 (majestic music) 617 00:35:46,763 --> 00:35:48,843 - [John] Sometimes I was acting like God. 618 00:35:51,404 --> 00:35:54,764 I was a fully functioning addict. 619 00:35:56,164 --> 00:36:00,065 It started cyclically after each collection, 620 00:36:00,165 --> 00:36:04,005 after each creative high, there'd be this crash. 621 00:36:05,005 --> 00:36:06,465 But, of course, with the increase in collections, 622 00:36:06,565 --> 00:36:08,706 that cycle became faster and faster and faster 623 00:36:08,806 --> 00:36:11,326 where there was like a collection every four weeks. 624 00:36:14,326 --> 00:36:18,587 - You're on such a high and everything is such a fast pace. 625 00:36:18,687 --> 00:36:20,587 Remember all these creative minds 626 00:36:20,687 --> 00:36:22,267 are coming together to create something. 627 00:36:22,367 --> 00:36:25,067 The dress has taken two to three months 628 00:36:25,167 --> 00:36:27,468 or maybe sometimes longer just to create. 629 00:36:27,568 --> 00:36:31,868 For a 20-minute show, I mean, that adrenaline is just like, 630 00:36:31,968 --> 00:36:34,068 it goes and it goes and it goes and it goes, 631 00:36:34,168 --> 00:36:36,169 and then Fashion Week is over with. 632 00:36:37,489 --> 00:36:39,889 And then, you go through the blues afterwards. 633 00:36:41,409 --> 00:36:44,170 It becomes very gloomy, actually. 634 00:36:47,490 --> 00:36:49,630 - [John] It was getting worse and worse 635 00:36:49,730 --> 00:36:53,091 and I was mixing alcohol with benzos. 636 00:36:55,451 --> 00:36:57,031 By then I was a slave to alcohol. 637 00:36:57,131 --> 00:36:58,871 Then I would take the Valium to stop the shaking 638 00:36:58,971 --> 00:37:00,471 so I could do the fittings. 639 00:37:00,571 --> 00:37:03,092 And then the sleeping pills so that I could sleep. 640 00:37:06,932 --> 00:37:08,932 My life became unmanageable. 641 00:37:12,333 --> 00:37:17,293 - We have a situation where John has a problem, 642 00:37:18,333 --> 00:37:22,454 alcohol, I suggest, but nothing I being done about it. 643 00:37:23,294 --> 00:37:25,294 He needed looking after. 644 00:37:26,614 --> 00:37:28,615 He was crying for help. 645 00:37:30,815 --> 00:37:34,935 - When designers start to misbehave 646 00:37:36,415 --> 00:37:40,276 to the point where both sides of the relationship 647 00:37:40,376 --> 00:37:42,376 are getting a little... 648 00:37:43,176 --> 00:37:45,076 Maybe the designers not getting what he wants 649 00:37:45,176 --> 00:37:46,517 and certainly, the businessmen 650 00:37:46,617 --> 00:37:50,497 are a little tired of the whole situation too. 651 00:37:51,497 --> 00:37:54,378 Sometimes letting things fizzle out 652 00:37:55,578 --> 00:37:57,898 in the most unexpected ways 653 00:37:59,018 --> 00:38:03,459 might be a blessing in disguise for some people. 654 00:38:06,579 --> 00:38:09,879 Look what happened to John Galliano at Dior. 655 00:38:09,979 --> 00:38:12,120 - [Bystander] Ah, yeah. Yeah, too much. 656 00:38:12,220 --> 00:38:14,220 - Could it have been avoided? 657 00:38:15,500 --> 00:38:17,860 I think so, I do. 658 00:38:19,060 --> 00:38:24,001 - He had rung me, saying that he was really frightened. 659 00:38:24,101 --> 00:38:27,941 He was being asked to work so hard. 660 00:38:29,662 --> 00:38:33,102 He said, "Help me, Amanda." 661 00:38:36,422 --> 00:38:37,963 - Only beautiful people. 662 00:39:00,585 --> 00:39:02,765 - [Customer] Awful. 663 00:39:02,865 --> 00:39:06,026 (tense somber music) 664 00:39:07,186 --> 00:39:08,766 - [Reporter] On Thursday evening John Galliano 665 00:39:08,866 --> 00:39:10,966 was arrested for the suspected verbal abuse 666 00:39:11,066 --> 00:39:12,246 of a female customer. 667 00:39:12,346 --> 00:39:14,367 - [Reporter] The British fashion designer John Galliano 668 00:39:14,467 --> 00:39:16,567 has been sacked by his employers, Dior. 669 00:39:16,667 --> 00:39:19,287 (camera shutters whirring) (reporters clamouring) 670 00:39:33,189 --> 00:39:34,809 (gentle tense music) 671 00:39:34,909 --> 00:39:36,129 (camera shutters whirring) 672 00:39:51,991 --> 00:39:55,891 (tennis ball clattering) 673 00:39:55,991 --> 00:39:59,232 (gentle ambient music) 674 00:40:00,832 --> 00:40:02,532 - What happened to the four designers, 675 00:40:02,632 --> 00:40:07,633 like Tom Ford, John Galliano, Lee McQueen, and Marc Jacobs, 676 00:40:08,393 --> 00:40:10,293 is an incredible coda. 677 00:40:10,393 --> 00:40:12,733 There is the beginning, the middle, and an end, 678 00:40:12,833 --> 00:40:17,514 and it's so dramatic that each of those ends is dramatic. 679 00:40:18,954 --> 00:40:23,615 Tom deposed, Lee dead, John career suicide, 680 00:40:23,715 --> 00:40:28,535 and Marc in a kind of limbo. 681 00:40:28,635 --> 00:40:31,275 (clock ticking) 682 00:40:32,556 --> 00:40:35,656 (clock bell gonging) 683 00:40:35,756 --> 00:40:38,536 (water fountain whooshing) 684 00:40:38,636 --> 00:40:41,497 - We all dress to show the world 685 00:40:41,597 --> 00:40:42,617 what we want them to see 686 00:40:42,717 --> 00:40:45,017 and the knowing demi-monde of Paris 687 00:40:45,117 --> 00:40:47,377 has always been coolly dressed in black. 688 00:40:47,477 --> 00:40:49,057 So when we tried to think about 689 00:40:49,157 --> 00:40:50,538 what we gonna do for the set, 690 00:40:50,638 --> 00:40:53,658 I just said, "Let's use bits of the sets from the past 691 00:40:53,758 --> 00:40:55,758 "and just make them black." 692 00:40:57,158 --> 00:40:59,679 I mean, you know, just all black. 693 00:41:00,959 --> 00:41:05,959 (gentle pensive music) (water fountain whooshing) 694 00:41:13,920 --> 00:41:18,001 (gentle pensive music continues) 695 00:41:20,561 --> 00:41:22,561 - It was probably 696 00:41:23,121 --> 00:41:25,902 one of the most difficult things to achieve 697 00:41:26,002 --> 00:41:28,002 that I have ever done. 698 00:41:28,882 --> 00:41:31,942 I bought everything single peacock feather in Europe, 699 00:41:32,042 --> 00:41:36,063 and they were all coming in trucks from different places. 700 00:41:36,163 --> 00:41:40,483 Every hat work in Paris I knew of was working on them. 701 00:41:43,804 --> 00:41:45,264 I hadn't been to bed for two days 702 00:41:45,364 --> 00:41:47,224 so I could barely stand up. 703 00:41:47,324 --> 00:41:51,064 Marc and I were just standing next to each other, 704 00:41:51,164 --> 00:41:53,145 he turned to me and said, 705 00:41:53,245 --> 00:41:55,925 "This is my last show for Louis Vuitton, I'm leaving." 706 00:41:57,365 --> 00:41:59,945 We were like, "Oh, my God." 707 00:42:00,045 --> 00:42:02,306 (audience applauding) 708 00:42:02,406 --> 00:42:04,886 He knew but he hadn't told anybody. 709 00:42:06,406 --> 00:42:09,467 He wanted to do the show and then leave. 710 00:42:09,567 --> 00:42:12,967 It's not like he wanted to make this big drama out of it. 711 00:42:15,367 --> 00:42:19,468 We were all very sad and it was a very emotional time. 712 00:42:19,568 --> 00:42:22,728 I think we all burst into tears, of course, it's fashion. 713 00:42:24,168 --> 00:42:27,089 (crowd chattering) 714 00:42:29,329 --> 00:42:31,189 - Felt very emotional for me. - Did it? 715 00:42:31,289 --> 00:42:32,029 - [Reporter] For me. 716 00:42:32,129 --> 00:42:33,989 - It didn't feel like so emotional to me. 717 00:42:34,089 --> 00:42:35,670 Well, I mean, it's always emotional to me 718 00:42:35,770 --> 00:42:37,310 and it's emotional to all of us 719 00:42:37,410 --> 00:42:38,750 'cause we put our heart and soul into it, you know? 720 00:42:38,850 --> 00:42:40,870 That's why we do it. We love fashion. 721 00:42:40,970 --> 00:42:44,151 (gentle thoughtful music) 722 00:42:44,251 --> 00:42:48,071 - Superstar designers, I think, were absolutely crucial 723 00:42:48,171 --> 00:42:51,471 to a particular phase of the luxury industry, 724 00:42:51,571 --> 00:42:54,872 which is building it up from becoming a name 725 00:42:54,972 --> 00:42:56,312 to becoming a brand. 726 00:42:56,412 --> 00:43:00,112 But once they had become real brands they were businesses, 727 00:43:00,212 --> 00:43:04,513 and therefore, you can find people to work in that business 728 00:43:04,613 --> 00:43:09,613 who have creativity but who are a bit less larger than life 729 00:43:10,974 --> 00:43:13,834 than some of these designers were at the time. 730 00:43:13,934 --> 00:43:14,794 - [Bystander] We love you, Marc. 731 00:43:14,894 --> 00:43:17,594 - Oh, thank you. Thank you. 732 00:43:17,694 --> 00:43:19,155 - Bye-bye, Mr. Jacobs. - Bye-bye. 733 00:43:19,255 --> 00:43:20,715 Sorry, bye. 734 00:43:20,815 --> 00:43:24,135 (gentle delicate music) 735 00:43:26,655 --> 00:43:29,796 - In the end, the tycoons, the gods, 736 00:43:29,896 --> 00:43:34,896 in a sense, overlooking this kingdom, reigned omnipotent. 737 00:43:41,417 --> 00:43:46,118 And their princes, they treated them very well, 738 00:43:46,218 --> 00:43:47,558 they gave them all the riches, 739 00:43:47,658 --> 00:43:50,538 they gave them everything that they ever wanted or desired. 740 00:43:52,938 --> 00:43:54,359 But when it was time for them to go 741 00:43:54,459 --> 00:43:58,759 or they cracked up and fell on their own, they were gone. 742 00:43:58,859 --> 00:44:03,620 The tycoons, the gods, they were the untouchables. 743 00:44:04,700 --> 00:44:09,540 None of this sad, dirty, side of fashion, 744 00:44:11,300 --> 00:44:15,101 luxury, dirtied them. 745 00:44:16,821 --> 00:44:18,881 - Actually, before I went to rehab, 746 00:44:18,981 --> 00:44:20,561 I did try to reach out to them 747 00:44:20,661 --> 00:44:22,662 but my calls were not accepted. 748 00:44:23,902 --> 00:44:28,902 And quite recently I tried to reach out, as well, 749 00:44:31,623 --> 00:44:34,423 but the message I got was that perhaps it was too early. 750 00:44:35,463 --> 00:44:40,464 (sirens blaring) (gentle suspenseful music) 751 00:44:47,705 --> 00:44:51,305 - [Dana] In the age of globalisation and hyper-capitalism, 752 00:44:52,185 --> 00:44:54,045 the luxury fashion business 753 00:44:54,145 --> 00:44:56,166 grew into a monster of a business, 754 00:44:56,266 --> 00:44:59,446 just gigantic in a way that I don't even think 755 00:44:59,546 --> 00:45:02,066 Bernard Arnault could have originally imagined. 756 00:45:06,787 --> 00:45:11,787 Greed and envy are what drive fashion tycoons 757 00:45:12,147 --> 00:45:17,148 in the kingdom of dreams, who whip up this exaggerated, 758 00:45:18,668 --> 00:45:22,929 unobtainable idea of glamor and beauty. 759 00:45:23,029 --> 00:45:25,329 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 760 00:45:25,429 --> 00:45:26,289 ♪ Ah ♪ 761 00:45:26,389 --> 00:45:31,390 - [Dana] What they sell you is a marketing dream of beauty, 762 00:45:31,870 --> 00:45:36,650 of hand-craftsmanship, of the finest materials. 763 00:45:36,750 --> 00:45:39,390 Of the most glorious designs. 764 00:45:41,671 --> 00:45:44,251 It reminds me a lot of the Emerald City 765 00:45:44,351 --> 00:45:46,351 in the "Wizard of Oz." 766 00:45:47,191 --> 00:45:51,172 It just looks like this glittering, glamorous, 767 00:45:51,272 --> 00:45:55,032 beautiful place made of emeralds that sparkle. 768 00:45:57,152 --> 00:46:00,573 And then, in the end, there's a man behind the curtain 769 00:46:00,673 --> 00:46:04,573 with a machine turning on the sparkle, 770 00:46:04,673 --> 00:46:08,194 and it's all just smoke and mirrors, that's what it is. 771 00:46:10,114 --> 00:46:20,115 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 772 00:46:28,596 --> 00:46:31,176 ♪ Ah ♪ 773 00:46:31,276 --> 00:46:41,277 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 774 00:47:02,800 --> 00:47:06,280 (climatic dramatic music) 775 00:47:11,681 --> 00:47:15,081 (delicate pensive music) 776 00:47:22,402 --> 00:47:26,643 (delicate pensive music continues) 777 00:47:33,923 --> 00:47:38,164 (delicate pensive music continues) 778 00:47:44,565 --> 00:47:54,246 ♪ Ah, ah ♪ 779 00:47:55,606 --> 00:47:59,886 (delicate pensive music continues)