This series is loosely inspired by the life of Karl Lagerfeld.
Some of the characters, their intimate and professional relationships,
their actions and statements, places, incidents and events,
as well as artistic creations
have been invented or altered by the authors for dramatic purposes.
In the case of such invention or alteration,
any similarity to the actual character or history of any person
is entirely for dramatic purposes
and is not intended to reflect an actual character or their history.
[♪ sensational electronic pop music playing]
[crowd cheering and clapping]
SPRING 1981
[indistinct chatter]
Oh, my God, it was magic! I couldn't believe what I was seeing!
I mean--
That was awesome and completely crazy!
-What was that? -Now you understand.
Yeah, I get it now.
[♪ theme song playing]
[Karl] The problem with Thierry Mugler and his crew
is they don't care about beauty, or what's wearable.
They are children of the economic crisis.
Rebellious, violent.
It's anarchy. Next to that,
we look like Madame Pompadour going to her tea party.
How much would it be if we wanted to put something like that on?
-Three hundred thousand? -Pssh. At least.
[phone ringing]
[Gaby] It's absurd. What can we do?
-Hello? -Let me do a line of haute couture.
What's with that face?
We can't keep up with these new designers.
[imperceptible]
Hmm.
But it's possible for us to sidestep competing altogether,
by switching to haute couture.
No, no, I don't make evening gowns for millionaires.
I dress women like me.
Don't be such a socialist.
You're already dressing the rich.
If we don't act now, in two years, we're finished.
[phone ringing]
-No. -Why don't you answer the phone?
It might be important.
I am your artistic director.
And I'm telling you we have to change, or we're gonna get trapped.
I will never do haute couture.
I won't change anything.
Pardon, monsieur, he's insisting.
-Another problem at your old apartment. -[scoffs]
[sighs]
[♪ upbeat rock music playing]
♪ Slow ride ♪
♪ Take it easy ♪
♪ Slow ride ♪
♪ Take it easy... ♪
Every night! Do you realize that? Do something about this!
Not to worry, Monsieur Perrin. I'll pay for any damages.
Again with the money! It's a public building, people live here.
These orgies are done!
Next time I'm calling the police, not you!
♪ Move to the music ♪
♪ We can roll all night... ♪
Jacques?
♪ Oooh, slow ride... ♪
Jacques?
[man coughing]
Where is he?
Hi, Karl.
How are you this morning?
You're in a good mood.
-[music cuts off] -[both] Oh, no!
[both muttering indistinctly]
[Diane chuckling]
Where is he?
Uh... maybe at the Palais?
-[Diane laughing] -Or at La Main Jaune. [chuckling]
Or Bains Douches, or at the Java. [chuckling]
-At 11:00 a.m.? -[chuckling continues]
And you're still here like parasites?
[laughing]
You smashed a dining set. Everything's fine?
[laughing]
Get out. Now.
-Out! Right now! -[all gasping]
[Xavier] Oh, man.
Come on, get moving! Right now! Get out!
[groans]
Are you his friends?
None of you are able to take care of him? Hmm?
A bit?
-And you, Karl? -[snorts]
You take care of him?
[♪ tense instrumental electronic music playing]
[car horn honking]
[grunting in effort]
-[screams] -[woman gasps] He's mad!
[Jacques laughs]
[staff chattering]
-Bonjour. -Bonjour, Karl.
Bonjour.
[seamstresses] Bonjour, Karl.
[all] Bonjour, Karl.
Jeannick, very nice edge work with the picot.
-Merci beaucoup. -No, I mean it.
-This is all thanks to you. -Merci.
-Okay, who's next? Ah, Valerie! -Madame Aghion.
-[Karl] She won't do haute couture. -She told me.
And?
I mean, aren't you in charge here?
-[Gaby] You were fantastic. -I'm not going anywhere.
[staff whooping]
So the haute couture will run us how much?
-As long as it pays, who cares? -Oh, yeah?
Pierre is going to let you?
-[man] I'm here! Open the door for me! -[Karl] Not sure.
-[Gaby] Nathalie? -Let's try.
-[man] Bonjour! -[staff whooping]
What the hell is going on?
Can you catch me? We're gonna play "rabbit," okay?
"Rabbit and cat." Let's play right now!
Oh, oh, oh! Hold on just a second here.
No, no, no, but see, see, see!
I'm gonna leap and then you'll catch, okay?
Oh, my God!
-Oh, my God, oh, my God, oh! -[staff exclaiming]
Oh, look! And voilà!
Heil Hitler!
[staff screaming]
[Jacques] Okay, I'm coming down anyway.
[seamstress 1] Easy, easy.
-[thud] -[seamstress 2] Come on, Jacquesy.
[gasps]
Mm!
[sighs]
Am I punished?
Just do one good thing for yourself.
You keep trying to convince me you don't have a problem.
When was the last time you weren't drunk or out of your mind, stoned?
Do you know?
-[slurps] -I don't.
So you're going senile?
You are not my teenager and I am not your parent.
I just want to help.
You can't carry on like this.
It can hardly go any other way. Right, Karl?
I could wake up early, stop drinking,
and after what would I... What would I do?
Hmm? What would I do?
Try writing yet another novel again?
Just wait around until I have a conversation with you?
-No, that'd be nice. -So they hated the film.
But just because you have a single failure under your belt, you aren't worthless.
No, I know, but I'm great!
I'm dealing with a lot, and what's sad is I don't know what to do. Okay?
But I'm fine.
I am trying to accept that I will never be better than I am here,
and as I accept it, the pain will dull.
[sighs]
What do you need me to do for you?
What do I need from you? Huh...
Hmm.
What do I need from you?
Take me far away.
Under a coconut tree.
Start over at zero.
Tailor for men in Rio de Janeiro?
[both chuckling]
I inspire, you go? Hmm?
Or even better, you could teach me.
No, but... Seriously now.
I was serious.
It would save me.
[sighs]
[taps cutlery on table]
[sniffs] Right. I should go. Diane and Xavier are waiting.
-Those two only drag you to the bottom. -No.
-Hmm. -No. They keep me company.
Thank you for the soup.
Monaco!
There's no coconut trees,
but there's sun.
The beach.
Afraid the left will win and you're trying to avoid taxes?
To get you back on your feet.
It's not totally incompatible.
Karl, you don't even have time for yourself.
I'm taking you to Monaco.
I'm looking after you.
As you wish.
Scheiße.
[♪ mellow instrumental piano music playing]
Madame Grès.
It's a ghost.
Merci, Jean-Jacques. Would you bring us tea?
Of course, madame.
[chuckles]
The little one from Chez Patou.
Who has come a long way.
And me? Clearly still here.
And, as always, drinking at Raphael's bar.
I work two steps away.
So then? You have my ear.
Well, I would like to thank you for accepting this meeting,
I'm sure you're very busy.
I was hoping I could ask you, as president of the Federation of Couture,
if you might co-opt us so that Chloé can become a house of haute couture.
And why would I do this for you?
[exhales deeply]
You've done nothing but to go on publicly about how haute couture is a bore.
Only idiots are inflexible.
The industry isn't any different. It's even worse than before.
And you're still German.
Well, I've brought with me today a few examples of our work
so that you can see that we already use
fabrics and techniques present in haute couture.
Gaining the status would just be a continuation
of the work we're already doing.
As if knowing how to sew haute couture seams
makes you haute couture.
It's a religion, not a technique.
A quest for perfection.
And you're a lover of fashion.
There used to be 200 houses.
And now there are 20.
I'm bringing you new blood.
Two workshops. One tailor, one flou. 20 seamstresses.
-All of them full-time-- -35 private shows every year.
Two public fashion shows. 25 models, minimum, per collection.
And after maintaining that pace for four years, we get the status.
Any deviation and you're out.
I'll be ready.
Is Pierre Bergé gonna bother me for doing this?
I'll take care of that. There won't be a problem.
Very well.
Let's take a look at your dresses, shall we?
[Anne] But he will.
[Jacques] But he won't.
Who's to say?
It sounds like he understands what you need, no?
Yeah.
He does have a history of putting me first.
[chuckles softly]
-Anyway, Monaco... -[chuckles]
[Jacques] Rich old men and fake aristos.
I need to get the courage to leave him.
I'm just a coward.
[sighs]
My feeling is you wanna be destroyed.
To find out if he'll save you.
Well...
You give Karl one last chance and if he disappoints you, stop.
-Stop hoping and quit. -And then what? Go where? Hmm?
You'll do something. You'll figure it out. You're a big boy.
I gotta leave.
You happy with your life?
Well, I'm free.
Yeah.
You're alone.
You know what image I keep of you?
You'd just come back from Saigon
and I went to pick up you and our parents.
You didn't know me, never saw me before.
I waited at the exit of the boat.
And that's when I saw this tiny little man
running towards me with open arms, shouting, "My sister, my sister!"
That's always how I'll see you.
And it's that joy that I wanna see in you again.
[♪ choral music playing]
[fan] Would it be possible for you to sign our coats?
[man] Yes, of course. So, uh... Is this for you?
-[fan] Great. Yes. [chuckles] -[man] For you.
-[fan] Merci. -[man] Right here?
[fan] Yeah. [giggles]
[gasps] I don't believe it.
-Voilà. I'm running late. -Merci, merci.
-All right, ciao. -Ciao.
Bonjour, Thierry.
[chuckles] I don't understand it at all.
They wear Thierry Mugler, they want that quality,
but they still want me to sign it. [laughs]
For your next big collection
you'll have to print your name over the clothes
and I bet they'll start selling on their own.
Good idea. If I lack inspiration, I'll do that.
[Thierry] Jean-Paul. Hold on. We'll go in together.
Which side are you on?
In life? Whichever side the wind blows.
Always.
-You're not one of those reactionaries? -We'll find out.
Try and hurry, if you would, please.
[attendee clears throat]
Come on, ladies and gentlemen, take your seats.
Hello, everyone.
So, let's get started.
Uh, we've all got a lot of things to do so I'll respect our time and move quickly.
First of all, I'd like to propose a ruling on spending limits for runway events.
I'll remind you that we do fashion, not pyrotechnic spectaculars
where models use their clothes to descend from the heavens, et cetera.
-[attendees chuckling] -But why not?
Because the spectacle in a fashion show
is supposed to be the garment and how it's worn,
-not absurd staging. -[chuckles] All right.
We're willing to talk,
but nobody ever told you how to do your shows.
Why should we have anything imposed on us?
None of you newcomers are alone.
That's what you all seem to have great trouble understanding.
[sighs] We've already heard this before. You're gonna say that if we weaken you,
the whole of French fashion will crumble as a result.
Yes, and even fewer people will make the trip to your shows.
[Thierry] Funny.
I think maybe there were 3,000 folks and 400 journalists at my last show?
That's fine. I can afford to lose a few.
-[attendee chuckles] -Yes. You're two years old.
-You excite. Are you immortal? -[Thierry] If your shows are outdated,
-then just change your shows. -[attendee chuckling]
Does one have to obey tradition,
and those that came before, if they want a place here?
It's true. If we're outdated,
we don't have the right to order that they get dragged down with us.
-Merci. -The question is, "Who should decide?"
And rather than the old guard,
perhaps those who are brave enough to reinvent French fashion
should have the right to decide its future.
In any case, me,
I will never be the one to agree that the old should dictate to the modern.
[positive exclamations]
-[Pierre] Everyone, please, please! -Bravo!
It's not a battle of the tradition and the modern.
It's the wise against the fool.
-[chuckles] -[Pierre] It's a question of money.
There're a lot I could say about you,
Lagerfeld, but I thought you were at least practical.
We can talk it out, Pierre.
My door is always open.
-Bonsoir, Geoffrey. -Bonsoir, monsieur.
Monsieur de Bascher is waiting.
-For how long? -[Jacques] Ah! All afternoon.
I'm on my way out. Get my jacket?
For you.
[Karl chuckles]
MONACO THE NEXT ELDORADO FOR THE WEALTHY?
I assume we're taking this photo?
-When? -Very soon.
What's stopping you?
Enough with the doubt.
[door closing]
He's getting impatient, sir.
So sorry. I had a phone call with American Vogue.
Impossible to interrupt.
Uh, coffee?
No.
I know that we use the same fabric supplier.
It's impossible for you to spend the money
on shows to look like the ones by those kids.
What's your angle?
Sit down.
How is Yves doing?
-What's it matter? -If I understand correctly,
you have convinced the Met in New York to do a retrospective on Yves' career.
Have I come here to discuss Yves or Thierry Mugler's little crew?
Yves's not well.
It's knowledge you made public.
He doesn't innovate. He just recycles.
And you put him in the museum to sanctify him
before we can discover the sad truth.
You made him a god because you know as well as anyone
it's the prestige that really allows one to shine on,
even when one has stopped.
[chuckles softly]
It's an interesting theory.
I wanted to offer you a deal.
I want Chloé to attain the status of haute couture.
-[chuckles] -And I would like you to let it happen.
No.
Why would I want this deal?
Because you need me.
Because the young will always rebel.
Because they do not like you.
You can't impose on them anymore.
Because as Yves loses his talent,
you lose more of your power.
And that's why you continue to yell at our meetings.
Me, I can talk to them.
I can convince all of them that they will not be stronger without us.
Just as I am convincing you now.
No.
Should they decide to leave the union,
you will have definitely surrendered your control over them for good.
You want access to haute couture?
Then get them back to the table to negotiate
and accept the principle of a vote.
During which, you will vote against them.
And you'll let me be?
[line ringing]
[Jacques] Hello?
-Hello, it's me. -Yes?
We need to talk.
-Come over. -No, my place. It's better.
Uh, no. If you wanna talk, come here.
-[banging on door] -[woman] Police, open up.
-[banging on door] -Police!
-[door opens] -[friends] Surprise!
It's your going away to Monaco party!
[♪ upbeat party music playing]
[cheering and whistling]
[Jacques laughing]
Whoa! Okay, okay, okay.
[all cheering]
How you doing?
Gimme a drink!
[partygoer] Come on, chug it!
Faster!
I adore you!
-Since when do you have parties like this? -Mine?
-You're only allowed to on the cheek! -Since when do you party like this?
-You're such an animal! -It's to give you good vibes!
-No, it's to make you want to stay! -Beautiful!
-Ah... -Come on, here!
-Okay. -[Diane laughs]
-Help yourself! -Make sure to take your bump!
-What? -[Jacques] Wait, wait, wait.
I told you that when I was 12, I found in the social directory
Diane, Princess of Beauvau, Marquise of Cra-- Oh, God, look at this face.
And I told my little brother, I told him, "Her? I'm going to marry her."
-What? -You're lucky I don't get my dreams!
Well, I do! I charge at my dreams. You know I do, right?
[♪ upbeat music playing in distance]
[partygoers chattering and cheering]
[partygoer] Well, we've got plenty to do.
Oh! If it isn't the famous Karl Lagerfeld.
What are you doing here, Monsieur Lagerfeld?
-Nothing. -Yeah? Great.
Once you're in, you won't want to leave.
Jacques will be happy to see you. We're celebrating your trip to Monaco.
[♪ upbeat party music continues]
[Diane] Ah! Look who showed up!
[Bruno] Hey, Jacques! Your Karl is here!
Hey! Hey!
Karlito!
[giggling]
-Is this a going away party? -Yeah.
And it's a surprise!
-Can we talk? -Yeah.
Talk.
I found an apartment.
-Apartment? -In Monaco.
-Oh! -A whole floor. Dual entrance.
3230 square feet, all overlooking the sea.
In the same building as Francis Bacon and Helmut Newton.
-Sounds so chic, can I come? -[laughing]
It just needs a... a bit of work and some furnishings, but it's great.
-[Diane] Any guestrooms? -Several, yes.
What's there to do?
Let's go to the casino and blow all of Karl's cash.
-Come on. -[Xavier] Gonna be great!
-It's a beautiful place. -Yeah?
You'll be happy.
You could even go there tomorrow, help remodel.
And, uh, I'll see you, when I can.
Ah. You-- Mm.
And you'll come over to visit?
Every time I can, yes.
-I will be there, Jacques. I'll come. -Mm.
It will be good for you to get away.
But just, don't be disappointed,
I've got work to do here.
-I can't leave everyone behind. -Of course.
Uh...
You want something to drink, or maybe a... a line?
Do you want a speed ball? I got speed balls.
No, you wanna go back home, probably.
So I'll let you go.
-I do have another proposition. -What?
All right, sell me a dream. All right, Karl. Go.
-Really sell it to me! -I want to adopt you.
I'm quite serious.
It would be like an... an official bond between us.
So you'll stop doubting it's real.
[laughing]
What?
[screams]
[shouts] Go!
[partygoers cheering]
[♪ upbeat party music playing]
♪ We're the kids We're the kids ♪
♪ We're the kids in America ♪
♪ We're the kids We're the kids... ♪
Well, this is rich. You're here
-and you still won't do anything-- -Kiss my ass!
[sobbing]
Bonjour.
Not for me.
Well, personally I believe haute couture is a great opportunity.
It's what Chloé needs as well.
I'm not involved.
I'm not the majority shareholder.
It's Lenoir who decides, and he agrees with you, so...
If you aren't satisfied, it's because you're not seeing things clearly.
So that's it?
What you're becoming?
Someone who's trying to keep your house alive, yes.
Mm.
The very first time you walked into my office,
I remember you being a mess.
You had come out of ten years of haute couture.
They'd just explained to you that you weren't up to it.
The designs you made were clumsy.
You added all these details.
Again and again, because your ideas were never that strong.
I took you under my wing.
Others saw you as a German with bad taste.
But I could see a young man brimming with ideas.
I trusted you.
I took one of your dresses. Then two, then three.
Until finally...
I gave my house to you.
And I'm here.
I have fought for you.
I sacrificed a lot. For you.
You didn't, though.
You're using me.
To get back into haute couture
and prove to your bullies how wrong they were about you. Again.
And how they never should've made fun of you.
All that.
Eighteen years of working together.
-For that. -I've given everything to Chloé.
If you had made me partner like I deserved,
I wouldn't have gone behind your back for a single thing. Hmm?
But, Karl,
what's most important is... is friendship.
What's most important is friendship.
It's trust.
It's love.
Well, regardless...
You've gotten your line of haute couture.
You'll be doing this on your own. So we'll see how it goes.
Hmm.
[Jacques groans]
-Oh, what? -Ta-da!
Wow.
It's a little burnt, Diane.
I never learned how to use the saucepan, Jacques.
Fine, but burnt scrambled eggs? I can't believe it.
Okay.
What's the time?
No clue.
Merci.
Xavier bolted.
Hmm.
And how did things end?
-Well, you threw up. -Ah.
Good little Jacques.
And you spent the night telling us all you were an amazing failure.
[sighs]
Don't mention that.
So why say all these things?
I was just spouting nonsense, Diane. That's it.
If you're unhappy, leave.
But I can't manage.
Why?
-I'm a failure. -You ass!
-Oh, oh! -You're cute, but a pain!
What did you fail?
Not having a job?
No, it's not work, I don't care about that.
I... I really wish I...
could've figured it out.
With...
With my talent.
[groans] You don't use your talent, what are you gonna do with your life?
Do you hear yourself? You sound so bourgeois.
Your name is Jacques de Bascher de Beaumarchais, you know.
You can't make that up.
[chuckling]
That kind of success is great for lower classes.
It's good for the... Karl Lagerfeld. [chuckles]
-The Yves Saint Laurent... -[chuckles]
...that whole bunch of galley slaves.
That's why they get things. The châteaus,
the clothes and furniture, to have a past.
But you!
You're amazing. You are.
You don't need to become it.
[♪ choral music playing]
-[laughs] What are you doing? -[laughing]
Nothing.
I see you!
-You do? -Mm-hmm.
[snorts]
[Diane moans lightly and laughs]
[moans]
[Karl] I wanna thank you all for being here.
It's a major victory to have everyone sitting here at this table,
and it's my hope on this try
we can find a compromise
that'll leave everyone feeling free enough
to continue conducting their business in solidarity and in concord.
For that I propose a round-table discussion
so that everyone can express their grievances
but without interruption.
And then, we'll put it to a vote.
We came back here because, at least I think,
we're also a part of the fashion world.
But then... the last gathering we had the impression
you thought there were many different worlds.
Maybe we should have several tables.
Because if one side are the real couturiers
and the other, us,
the simple, shoddy little makers who wanna put on a show...
If you're not ready for our spectacular ideas, just say it.
Or we won't get along.
I don't recall anyone referring to you as "shoddy little makers."
[chuckling]
We're young, but we can read between the lines, Pierre.
So let's try being a little more direct with each other for a change.
Then you weren't listening to what I said.
-[scoffs] No, I heard you really well. -But I-- I do try to
oversee this chamber with
-a benevolent and open mind... -[laughing]
...but the statutes are what they are, and I'm well aware of that.
[Thierry] Enough of this.
-It's not a statute issue. -This chamber was created
well before you ever started,
-and to be part of it... -Can't a statute be changed
-to accommodate this? -...there are some rules to respect.
You cling to your privilege
-like mussels on a sea wall. -It's not about privilege,
-it's respecting the way of things. -[arguing]
I'm absolutely going to indicate it, as I have the right to.
You know you can't make us do any of that!
-This is the essence of fashion! -You have a romantic view...
[indistinct arguing]
[♪ choral music playing]
[arguing fades away]
[Pierre] Karl?
Karl?
We need your vote.
[Thierry] Yes! We did it!
[victorious laughter]
Et tu, Brute?
We both know you were never going to keep your promise.
You'd rather die. To keep me from entering haute couture.
♪ Once I had a love and it was a gas ♪
♪ Soon turned out had a heart of glass ♪
♪ Seemed like the real thing Only to find ♪
♪ Mucho mistrust, love's gone behind ♪
♪ Once I had a love and it was divine ♪
♪ Soon found out I was losing my mind ♪
♪ It seemed like the real thing But I was so blind... ♪
It's fine. The server's coming.
I'm always so stunned by palaces.
They pull out all the stops
but they can't even hire enough waiters to come and take care of us.
[exhales]
Sorry. I'm starving, I know.
Finally. About time.
-Monsieur. -Merci.
I regret it already.
-Do you want my frites? -No, no.
[sighs deeply]
Well.
Here we are.
Where do I know this look?
Ludwig II. Am I right?
Am I right?
Karl Lagerfeld.
Ready-to-wear mercenary.
Jacques...
de Bascher.
And that's enough.
[chuckles lightly]
So do you come here often?
[chuckles]
Um, first time here. Yeah.
I came here on vacation with, um...
[scoffs] This need to give everything a name.
Defining it limits it.
Ah, Oscar Wilde.
Ah!
So you've read Oscar Wilde.
[laughing]
When was the last time you read anything for pleasure?
Oh...
Marilyn Monroe was still alive, I think.
-I'll have to make you a list. -No.
-No? -No, no, no.
It's no good. No.
-Spontaneous, as we say back home. -[chuckles]
-"Spontaneous?" -Mm-hmm.
I know we can take the time to fix everything.
Hmm?
[sighs]
Okay.
-[laughing] Come on. -Get off me.
Let it go.
[laughing]
When are we meeting the architect?
Three o'clock.
-Any calls? -Yes, one.
For you, monsieur. I wrote the number down.
Pardon me.
[phone ringing]
-Maison Chloé? -Rosemarie?
Did you call me?
Yes, sorry. I know I shouldn't bother you while you're on vacation.
Uh, but...
I think rumors are spreading
about your disagreements with Madame Aghion.
-And? -It didn't take long at all.
You've already received an offer. I'll forward you the fax.
Monsieur, if you accept this offer, I'll go with you.
And I know that many other seamstresses will follow.
Okay.
Send it.
[fax machine turns on]
Chanel is looking for its new artistic director.
The owners of Chanel would like to meet you.
Please do not accept any other offer until you've heard our offer.
See you Monday June 8, 5pm. Reform Club. London.
[♪ theme song playing]