1 00:00:12,251 --> 00:00:13,709 ‎無盡的光芒 2 00:00:14,584 --> 00:00:16,168 ‎無盡的浪 3 00:00:19,709 --> 00:00:23,376 ‎我忘了首次站上浪板之前的那個我 4 00:00:24,626 --> 00:00:27,459 ‎那個人被潮水沖走了 5 00:00:30,001 --> 00:00:33,293 ‎在衝浪時,人處於空白狀態 6 00:00:34,084 --> 00:00:37,334 ‎任由浪潮帶你到下一步 7 00:00:38,001 --> 00:00:39,793 ‎自由地成為完美的自己 8 00:00:42,168 --> 00:00:44,334 ‎去找到那道完美之浪 9 00:00:45,876 --> 00:00:49,418 ‎被水圍繞著、撐托著 10 00:00:49,501 --> 00:00:50,876 ‎那對我來說就是家 11 00:00:51,668 --> 00:00:54,293 ‎從另一頭破浪而出時 12 00:00:54,376 --> 00:00:55,959 ‎成為了一個全新的人 13 00:00:56,793 --> 00:00:58,376 ‎成為了全新的你 14 00:01:04,376 --> 00:01:06,959 ‎椰子在陽光下似乎比較甜 15 00:01:34,043 --> 00:01:39,418 ‎(凱洛柯爾於…) 16 00:01:47,709 --> 00:01:53,459 ‎《海洋的撫慰:衝浪史詩》 17 00:01:53,543 --> 00:01:57,501 ‎自中古時期就有人類在卡帕利衝浪 18 00:01:57,584 --> 00:01:58,626 ‎(卡帕利) 19 00:01:59,209 --> 00:02:02,709 ‎我和芭芭露安 ‎多蒂、西皮上週去衝浪 20 00:02:04,168 --> 00:02:08,043 ‎卡帕利的海浪跟我們的性格一樣巨大 21 00:02:09,251 --> 00:02:13,293 ‎曝露在外的珊瑚礁 ‎提供了穩定、乾淨的礁岩浪點 22 00:02:16,168 --> 00:02:17,418 ‎真的很棒 23 00:02:19,043 --> 00:02:21,251 ‎有人認為衝浪是一種運動 24 00:02:21,334 --> 00:02:24,876 ‎但芭芭露安在浪上的動作更接近藝術 25 00:02:25,543 --> 00:02:28,126 ‎她衝浪真的很厲害 26 00:02:28,209 --> 00:02:31,793 ‎她哪隻腳放前面都可以 ‎搞怪和正常都行 27 00:02:31,876 --> 00:02:34,043 ‎很少有衝浪客能做到 28 00:02:34,126 --> 00:02:37,584 ‎更少有衝浪客能在空中做退出動作 29 00:02:38,126 --> 00:02:41,084 ‎各位先生女士,歡迎芭芭露安 30 00:02:46,959 --> 00:02:50,584 ‎多蒂玩衝浪不算久,但她真的很享受 31 00:02:51,334 --> 00:02:53,209 ‎而且她最近剛離婚 32 00:02:53,293 --> 00:02:55,001 ‎她下班回家 33 00:02:55,084 --> 00:02:58,501 ‎發現丈夫跟口腔衛生師在床上之後 34 00:02:59,001 --> 00:03:00,959 ‎現在她就把海洋當成情人 35 00:03:01,626 --> 00:03:05,501 ‎恣情放縱地乘著 ‎綽號為“蘇西”的浪板衝浪 36 00:03:06,668 --> 00:03:09,084 ‎跟攝影機打聲招呼,多蒂 37 00:03:11,043 --> 00:03:14,376 ‎西皮是科琳西亞帕納托皮洛斯的簡稱 38 00:03:14,459 --> 00:03:16,376 ‎她是個出色的衝浪客 39 00:03:16,459 --> 00:03:19,584 ‎她一隻眼是瞎的,沒有深徑覺 40 00:03:19,668 --> 00:03:22,084 ‎但這似乎不會拖慢她的速度 41 00:03:22,168 --> 00:03:25,418 ‎不需要兩隻眼睛也能看出她有多出色 42 00:03:25,501 --> 00:03:27,001 ‎看看她的動作 43 00:03:27,751 --> 00:03:31,084 ‎西皮不在浪板上馴服邪惡的波浪時 44 00:03:31,168 --> 00:03:32,918 ‎都在寫書 45 00:03:34,043 --> 00:03:37,168 ‎是一本冒險小說 ‎講述四名女性衝浪客 46 00:03:37,251 --> 00:03:39,959 ‎在閒暇時破解神祕事件 47 00:03:40,709 --> 00:03:43,959 ‎不確定她什麼時候會寫完 ‎但開始寫就是好事 48 00:03:44,751 --> 00:03:48,793 ‎歌劇女伶陳屍淺灘 ‎背上插著一支手裡劍 49 00:03:49,334 --> 00:03:51,626 ‎肯定是優良海灘讀物 50 00:03:53,793 --> 00:03:56,834 ‎我們聚集在卡帕利海岸 51 00:03:56,918 --> 00:04:01,126 ‎距離草莓形狀的科諾諸島20公里 52 00:04:01,209 --> 00:04:03,376 ‎享受一週的陽光和歡樂 53 00:04:03,459 --> 00:04:07,584 ‎之後我們打算分道揚鑣,各奔東西 54 00:04:08,251 --> 00:04:11,459 ‎芭芭露安要去西雅圖 55 00:04:11,543 --> 00:04:14,668 ‎不是為了去阿爾基點衝亂浪 56 00:04:14,751 --> 00:04:17,168 ‎而是要去太空針塔玩定點跳傘 57 00:04:18,668 --> 00:04:21,543 ‎多蒂和她的浪板蘇西要前往日本 58 00:04:22,918 --> 00:04:25,626 ‎西皮要去投入更多時間 59 00:04:25,709 --> 00:04:29,001 ‎想出謀殺謎團的精彩轉折 60 00:04:30,126 --> 00:04:34,626 ‎至於我,我要遊遍世界追逐太陽 61 00:04:34,709 --> 00:04:37,001 ‎去尋找最大的浪 62 00:04:37,626 --> 00:04:38,876 ‎最友善的人 63 00:04:39,876 --> 00:04:43,334 ‎並在途中發現自己 64 00:04:43,918 --> 00:04:47,334 ‎就我以浪板當先跳入水中之時 65 00:04:48,001 --> 00:04:49,334 ‎全心全意 66 00:04:50,084 --> 00:04:53,084 ‎只有我的浪板和一層厚厚的蠟 67 00:04:57,459 --> 00:04:58,626 ‎讚透了 68 00:05:05,001 --> 00:05:08,376 ‎為這種旅行打包是極為重要的 69 00:05:08,459 --> 00:05:11,376 ‎要很有訣竅並有目的性地打包 70 00:05:11,459 --> 00:05:15,043 ‎對我來說,就是浪板蠟 71 00:05:15,126 --> 00:05:16,334 ‎泳衣 72 00:05:16,418 --> 00:05:18,126 ‎一朵菊花 73 00:05:18,209 --> 00:05:19,709 ‎三條毛巾 74 00:05:19,793 --> 00:05:21,959 ‎我的幸運普卡貝殼項鍊 75 00:05:22,043 --> 00:05:24,793 ‎防曬係數150的防曬乳 76 00:05:24,876 --> 00:05:26,626 ‎兩台可拋棄式照相機 77 00:05:26,709 --> 00:05:29,251 ‎一本英語對照毛利語片語手冊 78 00:05:29,334 --> 00:05:30,543 ‎垃圾海灘讀物 79 00:05:30,626 --> 00:05:33,709 ‎愛麗絲湯森寫的《愛的澎湃》 80 00:05:33,793 --> 00:05:37,168 ‎衝浪傳奇凱西寇納祖克曼的照片 81 00:05:37,251 --> 00:05:39,626 ‎七柱香 82 00:05:39,709 --> 00:05:41,834 ‎信號槍、太陽眼鏡 83 00:05:41,918 --> 00:05:43,501 ‎神秘圖騰 84 00:05:43,584 --> 00:05:44,418 ‎大砍刀 85 00:05:46,043 --> 00:05:48,626 ‎以及願意放下一切 86 00:05:48,709 --> 00:05:50,918 ‎並接受生命引領所至之處 87 00:05:52,918 --> 00:05:56,168 ‎抱歉,女士,妳的行李似乎是在倫敦 88 00:05:58,876 --> 00:05:59,876 ‎(夏威夷) 89 00:06:02,834 --> 00:06:05,459 ‎(卡波聖盧卡斯) 90 00:06:05,543 --> 00:06:09,251 ‎經過三個小時的飛行 ‎清涼的微風最令人愉悅 91 00:06:09,334 --> 00:06:13,584 ‎最涼爽的莫過於 ‎從柯提茲海原始海域吹來的風 92 00:06:14,084 --> 00:06:18,251 ‎我在卡波聖盧卡斯此處 ‎開始尋找完美之浪 93 00:06:18,334 --> 00:06:19,626 ‎(卡波聖盧卡斯) 94 00:06:19,709 --> 00:06:24,168 ‎這裡曾經是個寧靜小鎮 ‎只有四處為家的衝浪客會來 95 00:06:24,251 --> 00:06:28,751 ‎卡波聖盧卡斯已成為遊客必去的景點 96 00:06:30,918 --> 00:06:33,168 ‎這裡以狂野的夜生活聞名 97 00:06:33,251 --> 00:06:36,084 ‎現在遊客會到諸如奇奇先生 98 00:06:36,168 --> 00:06:38,918 ‎或醉人魚這幾個地方來狂歡 99 00:06:39,418 --> 00:06:42,293 ‎但我來此不是為了 ‎喝巨大魚缸杯裝的瑪格麗特 100 00:06:42,376 --> 00:06:44,376 ‎或參加濕T恤比賽的 101 00:06:44,459 --> 00:06:46,459 ‎我來是為了衝浪 102 00:06:52,834 --> 00:06:53,876 ‎超帥 103 00:06:56,001 --> 00:06:58,834 ‎這麼多迷失的春假學子 104 00:06:58,918 --> 00:07:03,126 ‎一整個世代 ‎從未找到歸家之路的青少年 105 00:07:04,209 --> 00:07:08,001 ‎拒絕長大的爛醉狂歡者 106 00:07:09,334 --> 00:07:12,459 ‎全都沿著沙灘在起舞 107 00:07:12,543 --> 00:07:16,084 ‎喝著從神秘噴泉湧出的水 108 00:07:16,168 --> 00:07:20,543 ‎這水有回春的力量,讓他們永保年輕 109 00:07:22,084 --> 00:07:24,418 ‎當人出來到海上 110 00:07:24,501 --> 00:07:27,334 ‎總是處於青春的淺灘 111 00:07:28,668 --> 00:07:30,501 ‎無盡的光芒 112 00:07:30,584 --> 00:07:32,168 ‎無盡的浪 113 00:07:32,751 --> 00:07:35,084 ‎無盡的青春 114 00:07:36,084 --> 00:07:39,584 ‎總的來說,在卡波聖盧卡斯衝浪很棒 115 00:07:40,084 --> 00:07:43,543 ‎但若要找到完美之浪 116 00:07:43,626 --> 00:07:48,793 ‎我需要更努力尋找 ‎行至未經遊客染指之處 117 00:07:48,876 --> 00:07:52,376 ‎小可愛,妳這裡結束後 ‎跟我們去喝一杯怎麼樣? 118 00:07:53,834 --> 00:07:55,376 ‎也許下次吧 119 00:07:57,584 --> 00:07:58,668 ‎真會把妹 120 00:07:58,751 --> 00:08:01,209 ‎閉嘴,我倒想聽你開口試試 121 00:08:03,376 --> 00:08:05,793 ‎(連環衝浪) 122 00:08:08,834 --> 00:08:10,834 ‎(塔斯曼灣) 123 00:08:11,668 --> 00:08:13,126 ‎(哈特拉斯島) 124 00:08:21,668 --> 00:08:26,751 ‎(地點不詳,百慕達三角) 125 00:08:28,126 --> 00:08:31,251 ‎(復活節島) 126 00:08:31,834 --> 00:08:34,876 ‎(邦吉海灘) 127 00:08:44,459 --> 00:08:47,876 ‎我繼續尋找完美之浪來到這裡 128 00:08:47,959 --> 00:08:49,709 ‎衝浪世界的聖地 129 00:08:50,209 --> 00:08:51,376 ‎麥沃瑞克斯 130 00:08:51,459 --> 00:08:54,543 ‎那裡有高至超過18公尺的浪 131 00:08:54,626 --> 00:08:58,168 ‎已成為每個熱衷衝巨浪者的試驗場 132 00:08:58,751 --> 00:09:02,668 ‎所以在划出去之前 ‎我很清楚我必須做足準備 133 00:09:03,168 --> 00:09:05,793 ‎我一天冥想四次 134 00:09:05,876 --> 00:09:07,668 ‎比平常多兩次 135 00:09:10,959 --> 00:09:13,001 ‎我想像自己是一匹狼 136 00:09:13,501 --> 00:09:15,584 ‎海浪是雛鹿 137 00:09:17,168 --> 00:09:19,168 ‎我想像自己是一隻熊 138 00:09:19,668 --> 00:09:21,918 ‎海浪是游經的鮭魚 139 00:09:22,876 --> 00:09:26,209 ‎我從岸上望著它 140 00:09:26,293 --> 00:09:29,251 ‎從懸岸上望著它,在夜半時分 141 00:09:29,334 --> 00:09:31,043 ‎一直望著它 142 00:09:31,126 --> 00:09:34,084 ‎吞噬它、向它學習 143 00:09:40,876 --> 00:09:43,001 ‎很快地,我準備就緒了 144 00:09:45,043 --> 00:09:48,793 ‎我選擇跟老朋友 ‎娜迪亞一起衝怪獸巨浪 145 00:09:49,793 --> 00:09:52,293 ‎她以前在塞拉耶佛當護士 146 00:09:52,376 --> 00:09:54,584 ‎後來去卡帕多奇亞當修女 147 00:09:56,334 --> 00:09:58,168 ‎現在她專衝巨浪 148 00:09:59,209 --> 00:10:02,043 ‎要說我不緊張,那是騙人的 149 00:10:02,126 --> 00:10:05,459 ‎這樣的海浪會提醒你,自己有多渺小 150 00:10:06,126 --> 00:10:08,376 ‎只是海裡的一粒沙 151 00:10:08,459 --> 00:10:11,459 ‎上帝慈愛掌心的一粒米 152 00:10:12,168 --> 00:10:14,834 ‎我終於衝上一道15公尺高的浪 153 00:10:14,918 --> 00:10:18,084 ‎並準備降落到娜迪亞所在的星球 154 00:10:18,959 --> 00:10:23,001 ‎乘著那道浪,感覺很讚 155 00:10:23,751 --> 00:10:25,626 ‎那是純粹的力量 156 00:10:25,709 --> 00:10:27,209 ‎純粹的力道 157 00:10:28,293 --> 00:10:30,376 ‎有一剎那我覺得我找到了 158 00:10:30,918 --> 00:10:32,876 ‎我一直在找的那道浪 159 00:10:35,168 --> 00:10:36,751 ‎但結束後 160 00:10:37,376 --> 00:10:38,834 ‎我知道我還沒找到 161 00:10:39,543 --> 00:10:42,126 ‎這是娜迪亞的完美之浪 162 00:10:42,209 --> 00:10:43,293 ‎不是我的 163 00:10:47,584 --> 00:10:49,376 ‎於是我繼續尋找 164 00:10:56,876 --> 00:11:00,668 ‎在托斯卡尼 ‎我決定暫時徹底放下衝浪 165 00:11:02,293 --> 00:11:04,751 ‎我來是另有原因 166 00:11:06,876 --> 00:11:08,626 ‎來探望舊情人 167 00:11:10,543 --> 00:11:12,918 ‎安傑洛艾佛里尼 168 00:11:14,876 --> 00:11:19,209 ‎馬上就很清楚,分開這段時間 ‎並沒有減少我們之間的情感 169 00:11:20,334 --> 00:11:22,209 ‎我們在鄉間漫遊 170 00:11:22,293 --> 00:11:25,459 ‎討論政治、談哲學 171 00:11:25,543 --> 00:11:29,751 ‎針對各種主題辯論 ‎範圍包括愛情、人生 172 00:11:29,834 --> 00:11:32,709 ‎和我們對義大利電影的觀察 173 00:11:33,918 --> 00:11:36,084 ‎我們談到葡萄酒 174 00:11:36,168 --> 00:11:40,626 ‎以及用舊木桶榨葡萄的優點 175 00:11:40,709 --> 00:11:43,751 ‎我們做了義大利水管麵 ‎和新鮮的莫札瑞拉起司 176 00:11:43,834 --> 00:11:47,626 ‎並享用我吃過最美味的燉飯 177 00:11:49,751 --> 00:11:52,418 ‎但我的造訪才剛開始 178 00:11:54,126 --> 00:11:55,168 ‎就要結束了 179 00:11:58,834 --> 00:12:01,168 ‎太陽升起,我便離去 180 00:12:01,251 --> 00:12:03,376 ‎再度踏上旅程 181 00:12:03,459 --> 00:12:05,709 ‎尋找我的完美之浪 182 00:12:08,543 --> 00:12:10,709 ‎別了,我的愛 183 00:12:13,209 --> 00:12:17,084 ‎(連環衝浪) 184 00:12:17,709 --> 00:12:21,918 ‎在密西根湖 ‎我們穿著潛水衣尿尿以便保暖 185 00:12:24,626 --> 00:12:27,793 ‎同時在泰國,海浪很短暫 186 00:12:27,876 --> 00:12:31,334 ‎但我找到了能終生留念的紀念品 187 00:12:35,001 --> 00:12:36,626 ‎總之,這一週很愉快 188 00:12:44,001 --> 00:12:46,709 ‎但還是有哪裡不對勁 189 00:12:49,376 --> 00:12:51,126 ‎我迷失了 190 00:12:54,126 --> 00:12:58,209 ‎我越旅行越感覺到它在流逝 191 00:13:00,376 --> 00:13:02,959 ‎完美之浪究竟存在嗎? 192 00:13:03,876 --> 00:13:06,001 ‎在奇洛奇洛的岸邊 193 00:13:06,084 --> 00:13:08,584 ‎我向奧力伊解釋我的困擾 194 00:13:08,668 --> 00:13:12,626 ‎他是當地的衝浪客 ‎相信找到完美之浪的真正關鍵 195 00:13:12,709 --> 00:13:15,293 ‎在於精神物質 196 00:13:16,084 --> 00:13:18,876 ‎他們稱之為“蓋斯泰尼” 197 00:13:18,959 --> 00:13:22,543 ‎一開始是長在紅樹樹皮上的花朵 198 00:13:22,626 --> 00:13:24,584 ‎之後被蝙蝠攝入 199 00:13:24,668 --> 00:13:28,001 ‎然後排洩出來,再從洞穴牆上刮下 200 00:13:28,084 --> 00:13:30,876 ‎最終泡成一杯茶喝下 201 00:13:32,168 --> 00:13:34,709 ‎這是我在尋找的答案嗎? 202 00:13:36,251 --> 00:13:40,459 ‎那晚奧力伊帶我沿薩納普河岸而下 203 00:13:40,543 --> 00:13:43,376 ‎去見一位人稱“瓦禮禮”的長者 204 00:13:44,293 --> 00:13:47,876 ‎據信瓦禮禮已經超過一百歲了 205 00:13:47,959 --> 00:13:50,543 ‎曾引導過許多任性的旅人 206 00:13:52,126 --> 00:13:57,084 ‎我很害怕,但若唯有如此 ‎才能找到完美之浪,那就來吧 207 00:15:17,834 --> 00:15:21,043 ‎我見過完美之浪 208 00:15:22,668 --> 00:15:27,251 ‎我第一次感覺它們比以往更加靠近 209 00:15:36,668 --> 00:15:40,251 ‎(阿曼,夏奇亞沙漠) 210 00:15:40,334 --> 00:15:45,043 ‎前往阿拉伯海的阿曼海岸 ‎有更簡單的方式 211 00:15:45,126 --> 00:15:50,876 ‎有若干機場可以讓旅客 ‎免於橫跨夏奇亞沙漠的辛苦跋涉 212 00:15:50,959 --> 00:15:54,251 ‎但也剝奪了他們欣賞沙漠地貌的機會 213 00:15:54,959 --> 00:15:57,751 ‎凍結於時間的大片沙丘 214 00:16:00,959 --> 00:16:03,584 ‎來到阿曼,我可不能不衝個浪 215 00:16:24,793 --> 00:16:26,126 ‎超讚的浪 216 00:16:35,543 --> 00:16:37,126 ‎茶很好喝 217 00:16:37,668 --> 00:16:41,626 ‎傑克森告訴我 ‎那是當地人最愛的卡達香料茶 218 00:16:42,126 --> 00:16:45,334 ‎我在曼哈頓海灘排隊時認識傑克森 219 00:16:45,418 --> 00:16:48,876 ‎當時他比我還迷衝浪 220 00:16:48,959 --> 00:16:52,126 ‎不論晴雨,每天清晨都會去等浪 221 00:16:52,626 --> 00:16:53,876 ‎然後他就完全放棄了 222 00:16:54,418 --> 00:16:58,251 ‎我問他原因,很明顯他並不想談 223 00:16:59,376 --> 00:17:00,209 ‎也對 224 00:17:01,543 --> 00:17:04,584 ‎對有些人來說,這股癡迷變得太強大 225 00:17:04,668 --> 00:17:06,709 ‎可能會在其中迷失自我 226 00:17:06,793 --> 00:17:08,959 ‎直到只剩下那股癡迷 227 00:17:10,126 --> 00:17:11,834 ‎不管傑克森發生過什麼事 228 00:17:11,918 --> 00:17:16,251 ‎我想他需要讓自己跟衝浪之間 ‎保持遙遠的距離 229 00:17:16,751 --> 00:17:18,918 ‎我猜他現在只想要織布 230 00:17:19,501 --> 00:17:23,209 ‎當他問我過得好不好 ‎我告訴他我看到的幻象 231 00:17:23,293 --> 00:17:27,168 ‎怪物、霧、完美之浪 232 00:17:27,251 --> 00:17:28,668 ‎他只是笑了 233 00:17:28,751 --> 00:17:32,543 ‎我不該對無神論者提起福音書的 234 00:17:33,043 --> 00:17:36,376 ‎在那之後,傑克森的心思像是飄走了 235 00:17:36,459 --> 00:17:40,668 ‎迷失了,在他腦中 ‎某個東西的灰燼之間溜走了 236 00:17:43,668 --> 00:17:44,959 ‎再見了,傑克森 237 00:17:45,876 --> 00:17:47,251 ‎謝謝你送的毯子 238 00:17:51,251 --> 00:17:53,501 ‎接下來的幾天很煎熬 239 00:17:54,709 --> 00:17:58,168 ‎那些完美之浪在我腦中揮之不去 240 00:17:59,543 --> 00:18:03,334 ‎鑽進我的內在,開始影響我的睡眠 241 00:18:04,418 --> 00:18:06,459 ‎於是我出發前往唯一一個 242 00:18:06,543 --> 00:18:09,543 ‎我知道能將我所見之物 ‎變成現實的地方 243 00:18:14,709 --> 00:18:16,668 ‎座落於東蘇塞克斯 244 00:18:16,751 --> 00:18:21,959 ‎這個冷清的濱海小鎮 ‎並非著名的衝浪集散地 245 00:18:23,126 --> 00:18:28,293 ‎但開始颳風起霧時,一切都變了 246 00:18:29,168 --> 00:18:31,293 ‎將這個獨特小鎮 247 00:18:31,376 --> 00:18:34,959 ‎化身為最狂放的衝浪勝地 248 00:18:38,418 --> 00:18:39,459 ‎讚爆 249 00:18:41,709 --> 00:18:44,501 ‎我到的時候,正好有濃霧警報 250 00:18:44,584 --> 00:18:47,459 ‎霧霾比平時允許的指數更高 251 00:18:47,543 --> 00:18:50,376 ‎救生員開始揮手叫大家回去 252 00:18:51,209 --> 00:18:53,334 ‎好極了,沒人跟我搶浪 253 00:18:54,418 --> 00:18:56,959 ‎就跟我看到的幻象一樣 254 00:18:57,459 --> 00:18:59,918 ‎沒有天空、沒有海洋 255 00:19:00,001 --> 00:19:01,459 ‎只有我和霧 256 00:19:01,959 --> 00:19:03,334 ‎我知道我快找到了 257 00:19:04,501 --> 00:19:05,626 ‎然後我就聽到了 258 00:19:06,126 --> 00:19:08,293 ‎海浪逐漸堆高的隆隆聲 259 00:19:08,834 --> 00:19:10,543 ‎就是這個嗎? 260 00:19:10,626 --> 00:19:11,459 ‎是這… 261 00:19:52,043 --> 00:19:53,459 ‎一切都很模糊 262 00:19:54,501 --> 00:19:57,668 ‎上一秒我正在實現幻象,下一秒就… 263 00:20:02,168 --> 00:20:06,209 ‎幾天後,我仍難以接受我的失敗 264 00:20:09,043 --> 00:20:12,793 ‎我在倫敦與我遺失的行李重聚了 265 00:20:13,543 --> 00:20:16,584 ‎但裡面的東西現在看起來很生疏 266 00:20:16,668 --> 00:20:18,793 ‎是一個陌生人的個人物品 267 00:20:19,459 --> 00:20:21,626 ‎這是誰的菊花? 268 00:20:23,668 --> 00:20:26,751 ‎一個相信有完美之浪的陌生人 269 00:20:31,709 --> 00:20:36,459 ‎到了秘魯的海岸 ‎我才意識到衝浪不再適合我了 270 00:20:38,584 --> 00:20:41,126 ‎也許我能像傑克森那樣學個手藝 271 00:20:41,626 --> 00:20:43,876 ‎也許我可以去做陶瓷馬克杯 272 00:20:44,668 --> 00:20:46,501 ‎大家都喜歡馬克杯 273 00:20:47,876 --> 00:20:51,168 ‎馬克杯是任何場合都適用的絕佳禮物 274 00:20:51,751 --> 00:20:54,293 ‎我就是知道該向前走了 275 00:21:04,584 --> 00:21:07,376 ‎正當我要進去,打算放棄時 276 00:21:07,459 --> 00:21:10,209 ‎有個人如海市蜃樓般出現了 277 00:21:11,376 --> 00:21:13,376 ‎我好像認識他 278 00:21:13,459 --> 00:21:16,709 ‎但是在哪裡?我是在哪裡認識他的? 279 00:21:17,376 --> 00:21:18,626 ‎然後我突然想起來了 280 00:21:19,626 --> 00:21:21,168 ‎我那個燈塔看守員 281 00:21:21,709 --> 00:21:23,709 ‎穿著某種長袍? 282 00:21:23,793 --> 00:21:26,668 ‎那是精神病院的手腕帶嗎? 283 00:21:29,168 --> 00:21:33,959 ‎他馬上就看出我眼神中的絕望 ‎並問我怎麼了 284 00:21:35,293 --> 00:21:37,793 ‎在他時而清醒、時而恍惚之際 285 00:21:37,876 --> 00:21:41,834 ‎我告訴他關於我的追尋之旅 ‎以及我是如何一敗塗地 286 00:21:42,876 --> 00:21:44,376 ‎他說他知道路 287 00:21:45,084 --> 00:21:47,584 ‎至少聽起來像是這樣 288 00:21:48,168 --> 00:21:50,668 ‎“我帶妳去看妳的完美之浪” 289 00:21:51,793 --> 00:21:54,876 ‎我說:“謝了 ‎但我已經不相信有那種東西了” 290 00:21:55,459 --> 00:21:57,709 ‎“一日路程,天黑前到” 291 00:22:00,126 --> 00:22:01,834 ‎起初我戒心很重 292 00:22:02,334 --> 00:22:06,209 ‎他喝醉了 ‎還穿著醫院病袍更令人不安 293 00:22:07,334 --> 00:22:10,793 ‎但他眼神中有一個東西 ‎讓我很想相信他 294 00:22:14,334 --> 00:22:18,251 ‎所以我跟著他來到秘魯叢林的中心 295 00:22:19,084 --> 00:22:22,793 ‎那裡沒有步道和標識 ‎也沒有規則可循 296 00:22:22,876 --> 00:22:25,793 ‎他只是跟著腦中的羅盤前進 297 00:22:26,334 --> 00:22:29,209 ‎叢林裡異常富饒 298 00:22:29,751 --> 00:22:31,918 ‎那裡又熱又潮濕 299 00:22:32,001 --> 00:22:35,251 ‎滿是蚊子和有毒植物 300 00:22:35,334 --> 00:22:38,709 ‎叢林不希望我們去,努力趕我們走 301 00:22:39,959 --> 00:22:41,168 ‎我做了什麼? 302 00:22:41,251 --> 00:22:44,834 ‎我當真跟著一個陌生人 ‎進了這蠻荒之地? 303 00:22:45,459 --> 00:22:47,376 ‎脖子上的是刺青嗎? 304 00:22:47,459 --> 00:22:49,001 ‎本來就有的嗎? 305 00:22:50,959 --> 00:22:53,168 ‎有一次他轉身說 306 00:22:53,668 --> 00:22:56,251 ‎“森林之靈如今與我們同在了” 307 00:22:57,001 --> 00:22:59,126 ‎我誠心希望他是對的 308 00:23:01,376 --> 00:23:04,543 ‎晚上我們輪流守夜,以防有山獅 309 00:23:05,834 --> 00:23:09,501 ‎他先睡,結果一覺到天亮 310 00:23:11,376 --> 00:23:14,626 ‎直到下午我們才看見 311 00:23:15,334 --> 00:23:18,418 ‎在一片綠海中閃著藍色的微光 312 00:23:18,501 --> 00:23:21,001 ‎像一盞指引明燈,我們隨著走出去 313 00:23:24,168 --> 00:23:27,084 ‎然後就在那裡,一如他所承諾的 314 00:23:27,168 --> 00:23:28,709 ‎完美之浪 315 00:23:30,459 --> 00:23:32,751 ‎真的很美 316 00:23:32,834 --> 00:23:34,793 ‎令人歎為觀止的奇景 317 00:23:35,584 --> 00:23:40,084 ‎我需要盡快進入去體驗 318 00:23:40,668 --> 00:23:43,126 ‎但當我靠近時 319 00:23:43,626 --> 00:23:46,043 ‎我注意到沙灘上有樣東西 320 00:23:47,168 --> 00:23:49,168 ‎那是我的浪板嗎? 321 00:23:49,876 --> 00:23:51,376 ‎但怎麼會? 322 00:23:52,168 --> 00:23:55,834 ‎我發現我正站在我出發的原點 323 00:23:55,918 --> 00:23:59,209 ‎然而完美就在此處 324 00:23:59,876 --> 00:24:02,793 ‎怎麼可能?是什麼變了? 325 00:24:02,876 --> 00:24:06,626 ‎畢竟唯一不同的是我 326 00:24:07,334 --> 00:24:09,334 ‎我的追尋令我盲目 327 00:24:09,418 --> 00:24:13,834 ‎這段時間我一直在追尋 ‎根本毋需尋找的浪 328 00:24:13,918 --> 00:24:16,918 ‎他本來就是他的意圖嗎? 329 00:24:17,418 --> 00:24:22,418 ‎帶我穿越叢林 ‎以此突破與改變我的觀點? 330 00:24:25,626 --> 00:24:28,501 ‎突然間,我這整趟旅程湧入腦海 331 00:24:29,126 --> 00:24:31,876 ‎所有我衝過的浪也一併浮現 332 00:24:31,959 --> 00:24:34,459 ‎在卡帕利、卡波 333 00:24:34,543 --> 00:24:36,668 ‎麥沃瑞克斯‎、‎密西根 334 00:24:37,293 --> 00:24:38,293 ‎奇洛奇洛 335 00:24:38,376 --> 00:24:40,834 ‎以及瓦爾帕萊索這裡 336 00:24:41,376 --> 00:24:43,501 ‎它們全都很完美 337 00:24:45,126 --> 00:24:47,418 ‎它們永遠都會是完美的 338 00:24:52,834 --> 00:24:55,418 ‎我回到家鄉的卡帕利海岸 339 00:24:55,501 --> 00:24:57,793 ‎因為新的人生觀而感到活力十足 340 00:24:58,501 --> 00:25:00,043 ‎但我並不孤單 341 00:25:01,793 --> 00:25:04,834 ‎芭芭露安經過了在西澳與鱷魚搏鬥 342 00:25:04,918 --> 00:25:07,459 ‎與在酋長岩進行無護具攀岩之後 343 00:25:07,959 --> 00:25:12,876 ‎她非常樂意回來輕鬆衝浪 344 00:25:14,043 --> 00:25:15,626 ‎多蒂也回來了 345 00:25:16,751 --> 00:25:18,334 ‎還帶了新朋友 346 00:25:18,418 --> 00:25:21,376 ‎松田俊夫和他的浪板“沃金” 347 00:25:22,209 --> 00:25:24,418 ‎看看是誰順路來打招呼了 348 00:25:24,501 --> 00:25:25,459 ‎西皮 349 00:25:26,043 --> 00:25:28,959 ‎西皮的第一本小說 ‎被選中要拍成電影之後 350 00:25:29,043 --> 00:25:31,293 ‎她就開始寫下一本 351 00:25:33,251 --> 00:25:38,084 ‎這次四名女衝浪客 ‎要潛入危險的機車幫會 352 00:25:38,168 --> 00:25:42,709 ‎洗清自己的名聲 ‎還可能在麗浪多海灘衝浪比賽中勝出 353 00:25:44,501 --> 00:25:45,918 ‎聽起來很引人入勝 354 00:25:46,584 --> 00:25:47,751 ‎至於我 355 00:25:48,293 --> 00:25:50,418 ‎我的旅程就此結束了 356 00:25:51,126 --> 00:25:52,501 ‎無盡的光芒 357 00:25:53,001 --> 00:25:54,709 ‎無盡的浪 358 00:25:55,876 --> 00:25:58,376 ‎站上浪板,人都活了起來 359 00:25:58,459 --> 00:26:00,501 ‎安全地在夏日寂靜中 360 00:26:00,584 --> 00:26:02,543 ‎朝向無限,疾速而去 361 00:26:02,626 --> 00:26:04,668 ‎沒有任何獎賞 362 00:26:04,751 --> 00:26:06,584 ‎沒有什麼要追逐或尋找的 363 00:26:06,668 --> 00:26:08,168 ‎已經到了 364 00:26:08,251 --> 00:26:09,918 ‎滑行過大海 365 00:26:10,459 --> 00:26:12,709 ‎完美就在那時發生 366 00:26:12,793 --> 00:26:16,126 ‎時間停止,心靈敞開 367 00:26:16,209 --> 00:26:18,626 ‎或許只有一剎那 368 00:26:18,709 --> 00:26:20,668 ‎一旦浪塌了 369 00:26:20,751 --> 00:26:24,834 ‎只要再次划出去,重新追浪就好 370 00:26:26,543 --> 00:26:27,626 ‎一次 371 00:26:29,209 --> 00:26:30,501 ‎又一次 372 00:26:31,626 --> 00:26:32,793 ‎再一次 373 00:26:55,918 --> 00:26:58,418 ‎字幕翻譯:李宜娟